with purple, with a purple feather in his hat; and the three eldest
Princesses "went to Richmond in riding-habits with hats and feathers
and _periwigs_." _Whitehall Evening Post, August 17._
If the reader will have the goodness to forgive the introduction of
very vile doggrel lines, I will in turn present him with a Beau of 1727:
"Take one of the brights from St. James's or White's;
'Twill best be if nigh six feet he prove high.
Then take of fine linen enough to wrap him in;
Right Mechlin must twist round his bosom and wrist,
Red heels to his shoes, gold clocks to his hose,
With calves _quantum suff_--for a muff;
In black velvet breeches let him put all his riches;
Then cover his waist with a suit that's well lac'd.
'Tis best if he wears not more than ten hairs,
To keep his brains cool on each side his scull.
Let a queue be prepar'd, twice as long as a yard,
Short measure I mean; there is great odds between.
This done, your Beau place before a large glass;
The recipe to fulfil mix with powder pulvil;
And then let it moulder away on his shoulder.
Let a sword then be tied up to his left side,
And under his arm place his hat for a charm.
Then let him learn dancing, and to ride horses prancing,
Italian and French, to drink and to wench:
O! then with what wonder will he fill the _beau monde_ here!"
_Mist's Journal._
I have met with the following description of the dress of a Running
Footman in 1730: "They wear fine Holland drawers and waistcoats, thread
stockings, a blue silk sash fringed with silver, a velvet cap with a
great tassel; and carry a Porter's staff with a large silver handle."
The Beaus of the day seemed emulous of the Running fraternity in the
latter part of their _insignia_, according to the Universal Spectator,
which says: "The wearing of Swords at the Court-end of the town is by
many polite young gentlemen laid aside; and instead thereof they carry
large Oak Sticks, _with great heads and ugly faces carved thereon_."
An advertisement in March 1731 mentions several articles of the
dress of the time; amongst which were, "a black velvet Petticoat; a
rose-coloured paduasoy Mantua, lined with a rich mantua silk of the
same colour; a Suit of black paduasoy; a long velvet Scarf, lined with
a shot silk of pink and blue; a long velvet Hood; a long silk Hood
laced; two white short silk Aprons, one embroidered with silk at the
edges; one green silk Apron embroidered with silk and silver; three
new muslin India half Handkerchiefs, spotted with plated silver; two
gauze half Handkerchiefs, one brown embroidered with gold, silver, and
silk; a short crimson satin Cloak, lined with white silk; a gold and
silver Girdle, with Buckles set with Bristol stones, &c."
The Weekly Register of July 10, 1731, contains a lively survey of
female dress, which I have transcribed for the information and
amusement of the reader.
"A GENERAL REVIEW OF FEMALE FASHIONS; ADDRESSED TO THE LADIES.
"The love of novelty is the parent of fashion, and, as the
fancy sickens with one image, it longs for another. This
is the cause of the continued revolutions of habit and
behaviour, and why we are so industrious in pursuing the
change: this makes fashion so universally followed, and is
the true reason why the awkwardest people are as fond of this
folly as the genteelest, who give a grace to every thing they
wear. This affectation indeed is so notorious, that a certain
lady of humour and quality, trusting to the inimitable
beauties of her own person, very frequently invented some
whimsical dress, which she herself was sure to become, that
the rest of the ladies might copy her to their own confusion;
but as soon as the stratagem had effectually taken place,
she laughed at their folly, and left them to be ridiculous
by themselves. Hence it is plain that every novelty is
not beauty, and that it requires great elegance of taste,
and truth of judgment, to determine the modes of dress,
that every one should consult the particular turn of their
own manner in their choice, and be well convinced of its
propriety, before they ventured to set the world an example.
But, as this is very seldom found, I shall content myself
with recommending it only, and make the present entertainment
a mere Register of the fashions that are by turns in vogue,
with a hint or two at the characters of the inventors. I
shall not busy myself with the ladies Shoes and Stockings at
all; it may serve to recal some ideas to the young fellows of
this age, which it does not become my character and office
to encourage; but I cannot so easily pass over the Hoop when
it is in my way, and therefore I must beg pardon of my fair
readers, if I begin my attack where the above-mentioned
pretty gentlemen end theirs. It is now some years since this
remarkable fashion made a figure in the world, and, from
its first beginning, divided the public opinion, as to its
convenience and beauty. For my own part, I was always willing
to indulge it, under some restrictions; that is to say, if
it is not a rival to the dome of St. Paul's, to incumber the
way, or a tub for the resistance of a new Diogenes; if it
does not eclipse too much beauty above, or discover too much
below.--In short, I am for living in peace; and I am afraid
a fine lady, with too much liberty in this particular, would
render my own imagination an enemy to my repose.
"The Farthingal, according to several paintings, and even
history itself, is as old as Queen Elizabeth, of blessed
memory, though it is possible it had its original in the same
manner with the hoop, and was worn as universally: but the
prudes of our days revived it in stark opposition to that
fashion, and boasted that while they were in that circle,
they were secure from temptation; nay, some of them have
presumed to say it gave them all the chastity of that heroic
Princess, who died, as she had lived, a virgin, after so many
years of trial.--N. B. Her Maids of Honour wore Farthingals
as well as her Majesty, and undoubtedly participated of the
same virtue, though I submit that point to the examination of
the learned.
"The Stay is a part of modern dress that I have an invincible
aversion to, as giving a stiffness to the whole frame, which
is void of all grace, and an enemy to beauty; but, as I would
not offend the ladies by absolutely condemning what they
are so fond of, I will recall my censure, and only observe
that even this female armour is changing mode continually,
and favours or distresses the enemy according to the humour
of the wearer. Sometimes the Stomacher almost rises to the
chin, and a Modesty-bit serves the purpose of a Ruff: at
other times it is so complaisant as not to reach half way,
and the Modesty is but a transparent shade to the beauties
underneath. This is what one may call opening the windows of
Heaven, and giving us a view of Paradise; the other shuts up
every avenue, and makes Reserve a Dragon for its security:
the first may give passion too great a licence, and the last
may be an injury to nature: for which reason I recommend a
medium; Coquets are the encouragers of one, and Prudes of the
other.
"I have no objection to make to the Tippet. It may be made
an elegant and beautiful ornament; in Winter the sable is
wonderfully graceful, and a fine help to the complexion: in
Summer the colours and the composition are to be adapted
with judgment, neither dull without fancy, nor gaudy without
beauty. I have seen too many of the last; but, as I believe
them to be the first trial of a child's genius in such
performances, I only give this hint for their amendment.
"As the Breast-knot allows a good deal of ingenuity in the
delicate choice of colours, and disposition of figure, I
think it may be indulged; but very sparingly, and rather with
a negligence, than the least affectation.--It seems there is
a fashion even in the colours of ribands, and I have observed
a beautiful purple to be lately the general mode; but it is
not the beauty of the colour that recommends it so much, as
the symbol it is said to bear: a set of fashionable people
have thought fit to entitle themselves the Gallant Schemers,
and this is the ensign of the order; this is hung out to
distinguish the society, who publicly declare that gallantry
is their business, and pleasure their only idol.--I thought
myself obliged to make this known, that nobody, through
ignorance, might be led astray.--She that invented it, is
above regarding the discovery; such a liberty is but spirit
and genius in quality, and only meets with censure from the
vulgar.
"I come now to the Head-dress, the very highest point of
female elegance; and here I find such a variety of modes,
such a medley of decoration, that it is hard to know where
to fix: lace and cambrick, gauze and fringe, feathers and
ribands, create such a confusion, occasion such frequent
changes, that it defies art, judgment, or taste, to reconcile
them to any standard, or reduce them to any order.--That
ornament of the hair which is styled the Horns, and has been
in vogue so long, was certainly first calculated by some
good-natured lady to keep her spouse in countenance; and, by
sympathy, the fashion has prevailed ever since.--The _Tête
de Mouton_ has made no farther progress, than those who
first imported it from Paris. They inform you the wearer has
seen the world, and has acquired sense enough to contemn
the fashions of her own country, and courage enough to defy
them.--To this may be added, the _Robe de Chambre_; and then
the dull untravelled English may begin their ridicule as
soon as they please; there is more pleasure in being stared
at for the novelty, than there is pain in knowing they
condemn it.--But, though the _Tête de Mouton_ has had no
more success, we have imitations that will do as well; both
sides of a fashionable head are now curled out to the best
advantage, and I do not know but, by little and little, we
shall be able to conquer our difficulties, and appear with a
full fleece, till another foreign belle arrives to furnish us
with a new extravagance.
"The High-crowned Hat, after having been confined to cots and
villages for so long a time, is become the favourite mode of
quality, and is the politest distinction of a fashionable
undress. I quarrel with it only because it seems to be a
kind of masquerade; it would insinuate an idea of innocence
and rusticity, though the Park is not the likeliest place
to be the scene of either: in short, if a woman is dressed
like a Wood Nymph, I expect the simplicity of manners, and
full force of rural nature, which is of a piece with the
character; but I am generally most egregiously disappointed.
Some lady who was intimate with the intrigue of romances was
certainly the reviver of this custom; she had read of lucky
adventures in that disguise, and fancied an amour was its
inseparable companion. On which account I give public notice,
that a High-crowned Hat shall be esteemed as an emblem of an
amorous heart, and a signal for the first assignation that
falls in the way.
"The Hat and Peruke, which has been some time made part of a
lady's riding equipage, is such an odd kind of affectation,
that I hardly know under what species to range it; it is
such an enemy to female beauty, it is so foreign to every
amiable grace, it adds such a masculine fierceness to the
figure, and such a shameless boldness to every feature,
that neither decency nor elegance can justify it.--None but
Amazons ought to wear it; and, if any of the sex are now
courageous enough to bid defiance to mankind, I must insist
on their wearing the Breeches too, to make their disguise
complete. But I am apt to believe it is made use of on quite
different motives; it must certainly take place out of a more
than ordinary regard to us, and must be meant as the highest
compliment. Besides, it may serve to tickle the mind with
pretty imaginations; sometimes supply the absence of a beau,
and sometimes please with the resemblance. I never see one
of these Heroines without ascribing some such cause for her
gallantry; and always surmise with what readiness she would
part with the appearance in exchange for the reality.
"The Riding Habit simply, with the black velvet cap and
white feather, is, in my opinion, the most elegant dress
that belongs to the ladies' wardrobe; there is a grace and
gentility in it that all other dresses want; it displays the
shape and turn of the body to great advantage, and betrays
a negligence that is perfectly agreeable. This fashion was
certainly first invented by a woman of taste; and I am
pleased to see the ladies in general so well reconciled to
it. It argues something like good sense in their choice
still remaining; and she who makes her whole actions most
conformable to that standard, will always be most secure of
conquests and reputation."
Perukes were an highly important article in 1734. Those of _right gray
human hair_ were four guineas each; light grizzle Ties three guineas;
and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five shillings. Right gray
human hair Cue Perukes from two guineas to fifteen shillings each,
which was the price of dark cues: and right gray Bob Perukes two
guineas and an half to fifteen shillings, the price of dark bobs. Those
mixed with horse-hair were much lower. It will be observed from the
gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in fashion, and dark
of no estimation.
The following extracts will describe the dresses of 1735: "On his
Majesty's birth-day, the Queen was in a beautiful suit, made of silk
of the produce of Georgia; and the same was universally acknowleged
to excel that of any other country. The Noblemen and Gentlemen wore
chiefly at Court brown flowered velvets, or dark cloth Coats, laced
with gold or silver, or plain velvets of various colours, and Breeches
of the same; their Waistcoats were either gold stuffs, or rich flowered
silks of a large pattern, with a white ground: the make much the same
as has been worn some time, only many had open Sleeves to their Coats:
their Tie Wigs were with large curls, setting forward and rising from
the forehead, though not very high: the Ties were thick and longer than
of late, and both behind; some few had Bag Wigs.
"The Ladies wore flowered silks of various sorts, of a large pattern,
but mostly with a white ground with wide short Sleeves, and short
Petticoats: their Gowns were pinned up variously behind, though mostly
narrow. Some few had gold or silver nets on their Petticoats, and to
their Facings and Robings; and some had gold and silver nets on their
Gown-sleeves, like flounces: they wore chiefly fine escaloped laced
Heads, and dressed mostly English. Some few had their hair curled down
on the sides; but most of them had it pinned up quite strait, and
almost all of them with powder, both _before and behind_. Some few had
their heads made up Dutch, some with cockades of ribands on the side,
and others with artificial flowers; they wore treble escaloped laced
Ruffles, one fall tacked up before, and two down, but all three down
behind; though some few had two falls tacked up, and one down before.
Laced Tippets were much worn; some had diamond Solitaires to hook them
together; others had their jewels made up bows and ends. Those without
Tippets had mostly very broad-laced Tuckers, with diamond Necklaces
and Ear-rings. Diamond Buckles were much worn in the shoes both of the
gentlemen and ladies. Lord Castlemain made a very splendid appearance
among the young noblemen in a rich gold stuff Coat; as Lady Harcourt
did among the ladies, in a white ground rich silk embossed with gold
and silver, and fine coloured flowers of a large pattern."
The Editor of the London Evening Post has whimsically described the
dresses then prevailing, under the character of Miss Townley, in one
of his papers for December 1738, who observes: "I am a young woman
of fashion, who love plays, and should be glad to frequent them, as
an agreeable and instructive entertainment, but am debarred that
diversion by my relations, upon account of a sort of people who now
fill, or rather infest the Boxes. I went the other night to the play
with an aunt of mine, a well-bred woman of the last age, though a
little formal. When we sat down in the front boxes, we found ourselves
surrounded by a parcel of the strangest fellows that ever I saw in my
life; some of them had those loose kind of great Coats on, which I have
heard called _Wrap rascals_, with gold-laced Hats slouched, in humble
imitation of _Stage-coachmen_: others aspired at being _Grooms_, and
had dirty Boots and Spurs, with black Caps on, and long Whips in their
hands: a third sort wore scanty Frocks, little shabby Hats put on one
side, and Clubs in their hands. My aunt whispered me, she never saw
such a set of slovenly unmannerly Footmen sent to keep places in her
life; when, to her greater surprize, she saw those fellows _at the end
of the act pay the box-keeper for their places_."
Claret-coloured cloths were considered as handsome suits; and
light-blue, with silver button-holes, and silver garters to the knees,
was very fashionable between 1740 and 1751. In the latter year a trunk
containing these articles was advertised, which will be found to differ
but little from some already described. "A scarlet tabby Negligée
trimmed with gold; a green tabby Petticoat trimmed also with gold; a
white damask Negligée, trimmed with a blue snail blond lace, with a
Petticoat of the same; a silver brocade silk Negligée trimmed with
pink-coloured silk; a white fustian Riding-habit turned up with blue,
and laced with silver, a Petticoat of the same, and a Waistcoat trimmed
also with silver."
When our present Queen landed in England 1761, she was habited in a
gold Brocade with a white ground; had a Stomacher ornamented with
diamonds; and wore a Fly-cap with richly laced Lappets. Such was the
then female British dress, which her Majesty adopted in compliment to
her Royal consort's subjects.
General Napier lost by robbery in the same year "a painted silk
Negligée and Petticoat, the ground white, a running pattern of flowers
and leaves, the edges of the leaves painted in silver, and the veins
gold, with some birds and butterflies painted thereon."
The author of "Historical Remarks on Dress," published in 1761 by
Jefferies, asserts, that party-coloured Coats were first worn in
England in the time of Henry I.; Chaplets, or wreaths of artificial
flowers, in the time of Edward III.; Hoods and short Coats without
sleeves, called Tabarts, in the time of Henry IV.; Hats in the time
of Henry VII.; Ruffs in the reign of Edward VI.; and wrought Caps
or Bonnets in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Judge Finch introduced
the Band in the time of James I. French Hoods, Bibs, and Gorgets,
were discontinued by the Queen of Charles I. The Commode or Tower
was introduced in 1687; Shoes of the then fashion in 1633; Breeches,
instead of Trunk Hose, in 1654. And Perukes were first worn after the
Restoration.
"THE HISTORY OF THE FASHIONS[338:A].
"_The French Night-cap._
"Our fine women have, by covering their cheeks with this
fashion, put their faces into eclipse. Each lady, when
dressed in this mode, can only peep under the lace border.
Perhaps they are intended, like blinds to a horse's
head-harness, to teach ladies to look forward.--A good hint,
however.
"It has been whispered, indeed, that this mode is an
introduction to Popery; it is to bring in the veil by and by,
and a sort of trial, to see how our English Toasts will take
it.
"Some ill-natured persons, indeed, go so far as to say, that
every woman who wears these visage-covers, has done something
she should be a little ashamed of, and therefore do not care
to shew much of her face.
"_The Ranelagh Mob; or the Hood from Low Life._
"This is a piece of gauze, minionett, catgut, or Leicester
web, &c. &c. which is clouted about the head, then crossed
under the chin, and brought back to fasten behind, the two
ends hanging down like a pair of pigeons tails.
"This fashion was copied from the silk-handkerchiefs which
Market-women tie over their ears, roll about their throats,
and then pin up to the nape of their necks.
"They were first worn in the Inner-square of Covent-garden
market, among the green-stalls; it was from thence introduced
into the outward-square or Piazzas among the stalls there.
"Mrs. Jane Douglass (of procuring memory) who was a very
great market-woman in her way, was the first who made
a Scotch lawn double neck handkerchief into the Mob
above-mentioned.
"Her female boarders would do as the mistress did, to be
sure; and, after a little cut and contrivance, away they
whisked in them to Ranelagh.
"The ladies of fashion there, who sometimes dress almost like
ladies of the town, immediately took the hint. The fashion
flew abroad upon the wings of whim; and, as Schioppius
observes, instantly spread itself over the face of the land.
"_The Mary Queen of Scots Cap_,
"Edged down the face with French beads, was very becoming to
some complexions; but as the Cap was made of black gauze, and
saved washing, it has too much good housewifery in it, ever
to be immense taste.
"_The Fly Cap._
"This is fixed upon the forehead, forming the figure of
an over-grown butterfly, resting upon its head, with
outstretched wings; it is much worn at present, not that it
either adds to the colour or outlines of the face; but as
these Caps are edged with garnets, topazes, or brilliants,
they are very sparkling; and a side-box appearance is not now
altogether the consultation of elegance, but ornament.
"Therefore those ladies who make the most show, are looked
upon to be the finest women.
"It is become a very interesting dispute, among the
connoisseurs in general, whether the present Turban-roll,
which is now wore round the Mecklenburgh Caps, was taken from
the Ægyptian Fillet, the Persian Tiara, or Wreath round the
eldest Faustina's temples?
"By way of Postscript we may add, that the ladies, as to
their Shoe-heels, go just as they did, no fixed measure, some
as broad as a tea-cup's brim, some as narrow as the china
circle the cup stands upon.
"Bell-hoops, Blond-laces, Pompoons, Neck-laces as usual.
Modesty-bits--out of fashion; and Hats are trimmed as every
person pleases."
"THE HISTORY OF MALE FASHIONS.
"_First Chapter. Of Hats; after Hippocrates._
"Hats are now worn, upon an average, six inches and three
fifths broad in the brim, and cocked between Quaker and
Kevenhuller. Some have their Hats open before, like a
church-spout, or the tin scale they weigh flower in: some
wear them rather sharper, like the nose of a greyhound; and
we can distinguish by the taste of the Hat, the mode of the
wearer's mind. There is the military cock, and the mercantile
cock; and while the beaux of St. James's wear their Hats
under their arms, the beaux of Moorfields-mall wear their's
diagonally over their left or right eye.
"Sailors wear the sides of their Hats uniformly, tacked
down to the crown; and look as if they carried a triangular
apple-pasty upon their heads.
"I hope no person will think us disaffected; but when we meet
any of the new-raised infantry wearing the buttons of their
Hats bluff before, and the trefoil white worsted shaking as
they step, we cannot help thinking of French figure-dancers.
"With the Quakers, it is a point of their faith not to wear a
button, or loop tight up; their Hats spread over their heads
like a pent-house, and darken the outward man, to signify
they have the inward light.
"Some wear their Hats (with the corner that should come over
their foreheads in a direct line) pointed into the air; those
are the Gawkies.
"Others do not above half cover their heads, which is indeed
owing to the shallowness of their crowns; but between beaver
and eye-brows expose a piece of blank forehead, which looks
like a sandy road in a surveyor's plan. Indeed, people should
hide as much of the face under their Hats as possible; for
very few there are but what have done something for which
they ought to be out of countenance.