the patent, when it occurred that there were other persons necessary to
be consulted, who had a property in it. Mr. White, who had married a
Miss Powell, had a quarter share of the patent; and when the assignment
of it was offered him to be signed, he objected, and said he would not
sell his share under 5000_l._
"Here then was a difficulty which had never been thought of. The old
Drury was pulled down, and the money for the new House was not to
be advanced without the patent. What was to be done? There was much
cavilling on both sides; and the dispute had the appearance of being
drawn into Chancery, to compel Mr. White to sell. All this time Mr.
Sheridan was paying 5_l. per cent._ interest for the first payment
that had been advanced for the new building, which was laying idle;
his present Theatre in the Haymarket was filling every night with new
Proprietors' tickets; and he was paying a heavy ground-rent to the Duke
of Bedford. This was a ruinous business,--and at length Mr. Sheridan
concluded a bargain a few days since at the price of 20,000_l._ for the
dormant patent. It is believed that had he employed his usual _finesse_
in the management of this affair, as well as in the dear bargain he
made for the Haymarket Theatre, he might have saved himself full
20,000_l._; for he has been likewise outwitted in the agreement he
entered into with Mr. Taylor, which we shall speak of to-morrow.
"The new Drury, however, now proceeds; and Mr. Holland has declared he
will have the Theatre covered in by the month of January next. The plan
is extremely magnificent, and will afford the most ample accommodation.
It is almost a square. A very grand piazzi will be built round three
sides of it, over which will be setts of chambers. The Theatre will be
insulated, as there are to be streets all round it. An opening is to
be cut from Bridges-street into Drury-lane, through Vinegar-yard; and
as the Theatre will extend to Drury-lane, there will be on one side
Brydges-street, on the other Russell-street, the third Drury-lane,
and on the fourth, the street through Vinegar-yard. Thus will there
be avenues on all sides; and then can the Theatre be emptied of its
company in the space of a quarter of an hour, a convenience which is
much required.
"The money raised for this building is 150,000_l._ payable in three
instalments.--60,000_l._ of this is to pay off the mortgagees on
the old Theatre----80,000_l._ is allotted for the new building, and
10,000_l._ for contingent expences. The mode of raising this money is
by an annuity of 100 years at 5 _per cent._ and a free admission for
every subscription of 500_l._ which already bears a premium of 5_l.
per cent._"
The Theatre is completed; but the East and West ends remain in a state
of ruin, which must be injurious to the walls and foundations. The
sides are faced with stone, and ornamented with pediments; and an
unfinished colonnade protects the audience from rain, while waiting for
admission; or their carriages are drawn before the doors on retiring
from the amusements of the evening. A description of the interior is in
a great measure unnecessary, and would be difficult to comprehend: the
shape is that of the lyre, as indeed are all our present Theatres, and
the decorations appear very splendid, though they are nothing more than
plain boards well painted in relief; in short, the silvered pillars,
and the beams, and the outward walls, are the only _substantial_ parts
of the building; and yet the effect is wonderfully magnificent, and far
superior to Covent-garden Theatre, which underwent great enlargements,
but in my opinion no improvements, at least in effect, about the time
Drury-lane was completed.
The ensuing particulars were given in the Gentleman's Magazine for
1794: "New Drury-lane Theatre contains in the pit 800 persons; whole
range of boxes 1828; two shilling gallery 675; one shilling gallery
308; total 3611: amounting to 826_l._ 6_s._ There are eight private
boxes on each side of the pit; 29 all round the first tier, and eleven
_back front_ boxes; 29 all round the second tier, of which eleven are
six seats deep; 10 on each side the gallery three tier; boxes in the
cove nine each side. Diameter of the pit is 55 feet; opening of the
curtain 43 feet wide; height of the curtain 38 feet; height of the
house from the pit floor to the cieling 56 feet 6 inches."
The proprietors deserve every praise for the precautions they have
taken to extinguish fire, by providing reservoirs of water in different
parts of the building, and an iron curtain to drop between the audience
and the stage. Whether those in the hurry of so dreadful a moment,
would be of any real use, is a question which I sincerely hope will
never be decided; I cannot, however, help observing that many large
doors seem so obviously necessary in Theatres, that I dare not attempt
to account for the diminutive size of the two through which the
audience actually creep in the pit of Covent-garden Theatre. An alarm
of fire in that house must end fatally, whether it spread, or was
immediately extinguished[310:A].
The amusements of the present day are very confined: the two Theatres
and the Opera for the winter, and the Haymarket for the summer, are
the only _established_ places of entertainment; if the latter can be
called such, which dares not open till May 15, and _must close_ by
September 14. Astley is a veteran in scenic feats at his Amphitheatre
and _Pavilion_; Sadler's wells is a more permanent establishment: and
the Circus and Wellclose Theatre are mere _moderns_ in comparison; but
these are literally Summer houses, as the proprietors are compelled to
confine their performances to the period between Easter and October.
There are other inferior places of resort opened at intervals,
exclusive of the various Concerts; but few of which deserve notice.
FOOTNOTES:
[113:A] The ridiculous tricks mentioned in the "famous Dutch-woman's"
bill of fare were permitted without reprehension. These will serve to
shew how stationary the entertainments of this place are: six companies
of rope-dancers coalesced. "You will see a wonderful girl of ten years
of age who walks backwards up the sloping rope driving a wheelbarrow
behind her; also you will see the great Italian Master, who not only
passes all that has yet been seen upon the low rope, but he dances
without a pole upon the head of a mast as high as the booth will
permit, and afterwards stands upon his head on the same. You will be
also entertained with the merry conceits of an Italian scaramouch, who
dances on the rope with two children and a dog in a wheelbarrow, and a
duck on his head."
[148:A] Flying Post, August 22, 1717.
[204:A] Shakspeare's Richard III.
[224:A] London Chronicle.
[227:A] The excessive crowd and pressure on those occasions provokes
every passion of the human breast to their utmost extent; hence every
petty dispute swells into a wide-spreading fray, and every little alarm
becomes the source of horror and despair: a melancholy proof of this
fact occurred in October 1807, at Sadler's-wells, when the words _a
fight!_ were construed by certain terrified ladies into _fire!_ and,
wonderful as it may appear, though neither light nor smoke were seen,
nor was it scarcely possible a fire could happen in that Theatre, such
are the precautions used by the managers, yet a phrensy took place in
the gallery altogether unaccountable. The entreaties and despairing
cries of the managers with speaking trumpets, that there was no fire,
availed nothing: persons, regardless of their lives, threw themselves
over into the pit; and eighteen died from pressure and suffocation
on the gallery stairs: numbers, besides, will probably suffer long
from their bruises. Every possible recompence has been made to their
surviving friends by the Proprietors, who have prosecuted the wretches
whose hateful tempers excited the terror, and given two _free_
benefits, the produce to be divided between those deprived of support
by the unexpected death of their fathers or husbands. Indeed their
conduct deserves the thanks of the publick.
[236:A] These veterans died within a year of each other; the latter
in September 1806, aged 78: they were almost the last survivors of
Garrick's school.
[236:B] This actor was sent a short time before to announce a
Comedy for representation to the audience, and forgot the title;
after pronouncing the word "called"--"called" several times, a tar
vociferated "The Tempest;"--"True," said Obrien, "The Tempest."
[252:A] _The True-born Irishman_, written by Macklin.
[310:A] Both were reduced to ashes, Covent-garden at the close of
1808, and Drury-lane in the beginning of 1809, and _both accidentally_
without doubt.
CHAP. VIII.
ANECDOTES OF DRESS, AND OF THE CAPRICES OF FASHION.
To render past fashions as intelligible as possible, I beg leave to
refer to the prints annexed; by which every remarkable change in male
and female dress may be traced between 1700 and 1806.
The Ladies Bodice or Stays were sometimes made of silk, with black
straps to fasten with buckles set with stones or false jewels.
The head had a covering called a Hood, and this was in the form that is
now worn by old-fashioned people on the upper part of the Cloak: they
were of satin, sarsnet, or velvet.
[Illustration: _Dress 1690-1715_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1721_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1735_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1738_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1745_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1752_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1766_]
[Illustration: _Dress circa 1770, 1773_]
[Illustration: _Dress circa 1785_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1797_]
[Illustration: _Dress 1807_]
Ear-rings, and Girdles fastened by buckles, were common, as were
coloured gowns lined with striped silks. Lady Anderson, whose house
was robbed at a fire in Red Lion-square in 1700, lost one of this
description of _orange_ damask lined with striped silk. The family of
George Heneage, Esq. at the same time, and by the same casualty, lost
"a _head_ with very fine looped lace of very great value, a Flanders
laced Hood, a pair of double Ruffles and Tuckers; two laced Aprons, one
point, the other Flanders lace; and a large black Scarf embroidered
with gold."
At the same period the ladies wore Holland Petticoats, embroidered in
figures with different-coloured silks and gold, with broad orrice at
the bottom.
It may be inferred from the ensuing story that Wigs of delicate and
beautiful hair, whether for the use of ladies or gentlemen, were in
great demand, or highly valued, by some of our beaus or belles.
"An Oxfordshire Lass was lately courted by a young man of that country,
who was not willing to marry her unless her friends could advance
50_l._ for her portion; which they being incapable of doing, the lass
came to this City to try her fortune, where she met with a good chapman
in the Strand, who made a purchase of her Hair (which was delicately
long and light), and gave her _sixty pounds_ for it, being 20 ounces
at 3_l. an ounce_; with which money she joyfully returned into the
Country, and bought her a husband." _Protestant Mercury, July 10,
1700._
Admitting this tale to be a mere fabrication to fill the paper, it is
by no means to be doubted that good Hair sold at 3_l. per_ ounce.
The Sword as one of the most reprehensible articles used in the dress
of the gentlemen. It is undoubtedly an incumbrance to a well-bred man;
but dangling by the side of an awkward person it becomes ridiculous,
troublesome to himself, and intolerable to his neighbours. These
observations apply only to the _absurdity_ of the custom: as a
dangerous weapon ready on a sudden quarrel, humanity revolts against
its use. The following notice from the Gazette of January 1, 1701,
will shew, that Government was at least careful of the lives of that
honourable set of gentlemen _ycleped_ Footmen who sported _their_
side-arms.
"By the Right Hon. Charles Earl of Carlisle, Earl Marshal of England
during the minority of Thomas Duke of Norfolk. Whereas many mischiefs
and dangerous accidents, tending not only to the highest breach of
the peace, but also to the destruction of the lives of his Majesty's
subjects, have happened and been occasioned by Footmen wearing of
swords: for prevention of the like evil accidents and disturbances
for the future, I do hereby order, that no Footman attending any of
the nobility or gentry of his Majesty's realms shall wear any sword,
hanger, _bayonet_, or other such like offensive weapon, during such
time as they or any of them shall reside or be within the Cities of
London and Westminster, and the liberties and precincts of the same, as
they will answer the contrary hereof. Given under my hand, and the Seal
of the Office of Earl Marshal of England, the 30th day of December,
1701, in the 13th year of the reign of our Sovereign Lord King William
the Third of England, &c.
"CARLISLE, E. M."
Muffs were in use before the year 1700, but very different in shape
and materials from those of the present day. What would a fashionable
belle say to a Furrier, who should offer her one for sale made of the
Leopard's skin? Yet such were worn in 1702.
In the same year it was customary to adorn the arm with Lockets,
as they were then called. A large one is thus described in an
advertisement as lost by a lady: "Striped with dark brown and fair
hair, wrought like Camlet, the hair set in gold, over the hair a cypher
of four letters, R. A. M. L. under a cut crystal, and set round with
ten rose diamonds."
Diamond Stomachers adorned the ladies' breasts, which were composed of
that valuable stone set in silver, and sewed in a variety of figures
upon black silk; and they must be admitted to have been a brilliant, if
not an elegant ornament.
The men imported the Campaign Wig from France. Those were made very
full, were curled, and eighteen inches in length to the front, with
drop locks. When _human_ hair was scarce, a little _horse_ hair
supplied the place in the parts least in sight.
An advertisement issued in 1703 gives a whole-length portrait of the
dress of a Youth in the middle rank of life. Such a figure would
attract much wonder at present in the streets of London. "He is of
a fair complexion, light-brown lank hair, having on a dark-brown
frieze Coat, double-breasted on each side, with black buttons and
button-holes; a light drugget Waistcoat, _red-shag Breeches striped
with black stripes_, and _black_ Stockings."
Mourning Rings were used in 1703.
Satin Gowns were lined with Persian silk; and laced Kerchiefs, and
Spanish leather Shoes, laced with gold, were common. To these the
Ladies added bare breasts, with gold and other Crosses suspended on
them.
The odd custom of setting little circular pieces of black silk on
various parts of the female face, well known by the name of _Patches_
even in our enlightened days, prevailed to a most extravagant degree
at the time I am now treating of: they then, as at present, varied in
size, and were supported by their auxiliaries in elegance, frizzed and
powdered _false Locks_, and emulated by the men's Sword-knots and black
silk facings to their Coats.
The Ladies must indeed have exhibited a wonderful appearance in 1709:
behold one equipped in a black silk Petticoat with a red and white
calico border, cherry-coloured Stays trimmed with blue and silver,
a red and dove-coloured damask Gown flowered with large trees, a
yellow satin Apron trimmed with white Persian, and muslin Head-cloths
with crowfoot edging, double Ruffles with fine edging, a black silk
furbelowed Scarf, and a spotted Hood! Such were the clothes advertised
as stolen in the Post-Boy of November 15. To cover all this finery from
rain the fashionables had Umbrellas. The Female Tatler of December 12
says, "The young gentleman belonging to the Custom-house, that for fear
of rain borrowed the _Umbrella_ at Will's Coffee-house in Cornhill of
the _Mistress_, is hereby advertised that to be dry from head to foot
on the like occasion he shall be welcome _to the Maid's pattens_;"
which seems to imply that this useful invention was then considered as
too effeminate for Men.
Sedans were in use at the same time; but I should imagine not
generally, as the same writer describes a _City_ Lady rendered sick,
and dislocating her neck, by being carried in one, and rising too
suddenly.
The ridiculous long Wigs of 1710 were very expensive: one was
advertised as stolen in that year, and said to be worth five
guineas; and Duumvir's "fair Wig" in the Tatler, No. 54, "cost forty
guineas." But, lest it should be supposed that the gentlemen _only_
were extravagant in decorating the _caput_, take the prices from the
Lace-chamber on Ludgate-hill: "One Brussels head at 40_l._; one ground
Brussels head at 30_l._; one looped Brussels head at 30_l._"
The Tatler ludicrously advertises "A Stage Coach as departing from
Nando's Coffee-house for Mr. Tiptoe's Dancing-school every evening;"
and adds the following: "N. B. Dancing-shoes not exceeding _four
inches height in the heel_, and Perriwigs not exceeding _three feet in
length_, are carried in the Coach-box _gratis_."
Those unfortunate persons who were born with golden tresses, and those
who had lived to bear the silver locks of Time, and did not choose to
carry the weight of the above tremendous wigs, were not without their
_Tricosian fluid_; for Mr. Michon, goldsmith, informed them in 1710,
that he had "found out" "a clear water," which would convert them into
brown or black locks.
Mr. Bickerstaff notices the extreme nakedness of the ladies' breasts at
this time; and casually mentions the beau's pearl-coloured stockings
and _red_-topped shoes, fringed gloves, large wigs, and feathers in the
hat.
A lady's Riding-dress was advertised for sale in the Spectator of
June 2, 1711, "of blue Camblet well laced with silver; being a coat,
waistcoat, petticoat, hat and feather." Another in 1712 mentions an
_Isabella_ coloured _Kincob_ Gown, flowered with green and gold, a
dark-coloured _cloth_ (probably linen) Gown and Petticoat with two
silver orrices, a purple and gold _Atlas_ Gown; a _scarlet and gold_
Atlas Petticoat edged with silver, a wrought _Under_-petticoat edged
with gold, a black velvet Petticoat; _Allejah_ Petticoat striped with
green gold and white, a blue and silver silk Gown and Petticoat, a blue
and gold Atlas Gown and Petticoat, and clogs laced with silver. These
were the property of Mr. Peter Paggen of Love-lane near Eastcheap,
brewer, who fined for Sheriff in 1712; and were probably the dresses
of the females of his family. That _they_, or whoever wore such, were
very gaudy, cannot be denied; but those rich coverings for the body
were matched by the decorations of the head: if the hips had their
scarlet, the seat of the understanding had its blue, yellow, pink,
and green Hoods. The Spectator says, "When Melesinda wraps her head
in _flame_ colour, her heart is set upon execution." The majority of
these fashions were doubtlessly from France, as the same work describes
a Parisian Doll imported by the Milliners; a custom most religiously
continued during the rare intervals of peace between the two Countries.
To the above list of finery pray let me add Mrs. Beale's loss in 1712.
"A green silk knit Waistcoat with gold and silver flowers _all over
it_, and _about fourteen_ yards of gold and silver _thick_ lace on it.
And a Petticoat of rich strong flowered satin red and white, _all in
great_ flowers or leaves, and _scarlet_ flowers with _black specks_
brocaded in, _raised high like Velvet or Shag_." Surely if James I. had
seen this Waistcoat and Petticoat, he would have sadly abused his two
subjects who wore them; they even set the Stomachers of Queen Bess at
defiance, except that they are deficient in _Jewelry_. And in 1714 Mr.
John Osheal had the misfortune to be robbed of "a scarlet cloth Suit,
laced with broad gold lace, lined and faced with blue; a fine cinnamon
cloth Suit with plate buttons, the Waistcoat fringed with a silk fringe
of the same colour, and a rich _yellow_ flowered satin morning Gown
lined with a cherry-coloured satin, with a pocket on the right side."
The extreme richness of the habits of those days were accompanied by
equal extravagance in the furniture of Beds, advertised as stolen
1715, and thus described: "Four Curtains of damask, a blue ground and
changeable flowers; the curtains lined with white satin, having a mixed
fringe. A white satin Quilt to the said bed embroidered. Four flowered
velvet Curtains of a yellowish ash-colour, in a border of the same
kind of flowered velvet of a musk-colour; the border trimmed with green
lace with a stripe of red, lined with a striped India muslin." Those
were the property of a lady resident in Bedford-row, whose name is not
mentioned.
The Weekly Journal of January 1717 mentions the death of the celebrated
mantua-maker Mrs. Selby, whose inventive talents supplied the ladies
with that absurd and troublesome obstruction, that enemy to elegance
and symmetry, the Hooped Petticoat. The same paper of a subsequent
date contains an humourous essay on the advantages and disadvantages
of the Hooped Petticoat. As I presume the reader with me inclines to
the disadvantages, he will be pleased with a short extract: "I believe
it would puzzle the quickest invention to find out one tolerable
conveniency in these machines. I appeal to the sincerity of the ladies,
whether they are not a great incumbrance upon all occasions (vanity
apart) both at home and abroad. What skill and management is required
to reduce one of these circles within the limits of a chair, or to
find space for two in a chariot; and what precautions must a modest
female take even to enter at the doors of a private family without
obstruction! Then a vivacious damsel cannot turn herself round in a
room a little inconsiderately without oversetting every thing like a
whirlwind; stands and tea-tables, flower-pots, China-jars and basins
innumerable, perish daily by this spreading mischief, which, like a
Comet, spares nothing that comes within its sweep. Neither is this
fashion more ornamental than convenient. Nothing can be imagined more
unnatural, and consequently less agreeable. When a slender Virgin
stands upon a basis so exorbitantly wide, she resembles a funnel, a
figure of no great elegancy; and I have seen many fine ladies of a low
stature, who, when they sail in their hoops about an apartment, look
like children in Go-carts."
Black and white beaver Hats for ladies were advertised in 1719, faced
with coloured silks, and trimmed with gold or silver lace.
Wigs maintained their ground in 1720; and white hair for the
manufacture of them bore a monstrous price, if we may credit that that
of a woman aged 170, of a very considerable length, produced 50_l._
after her death from a Perriwig-maker. _Original Weekly Journal._
The man of fashion in 1720 wore the full-curled flowing Wig, which
fell in ringlets half way down his arms and back; a Neckcloth tied
tight round his neck; a Coat reaching to his ancles, laced, strait,
formal, with buttons to the very bottom, and several on the pockets and
sleeves; his Shoes were square at the toes, had diminutive buckles, a
monstrous flap on the instep, and high heels; a belt secured the coat,
and supported the Sword.
A man advertised a wonderful Wig to be seen in Sidney-alley,
Leicester-fields, at one shilling each person in February 1721. He said
it was made without weaving or sewing; in short, as Sterne says, it
might be immersed in the Ocean without derangement.
The ladies wore Hooped Petticoats, scarlet Cloaks, and Masks, when
walking. The Hoops were fair game for the wits, and they spared them
not.
"An elderly lady whose bulky squat figure
By hoop and white damask was rendered much bigger,
Without hood and bare-neck'd to the Park did repair,
To shew her new clothes, and to take the fresh air;
Her shape, her attire, rais'd a shout and loud laughter;
Away waddles Madam; the mob hurries after.
Quoth a wag, then observing the noisy crowd follow,
As she came with a _hoop_, she is gone with a hollow."
If the Flying Post of June 14, 1722, may be credited, the Bishop of
Durham[323:A] appeared on horseback at a review in the King's train "in
a lay habit of purple with Jack boots, and his hat cocked, and a black
wig tied behind him, like a militant officer."