Business was proceeding briskly on all sides. There was great

higgling as to prices, and shillings and half-crowns were tossed in a

wonderful manner from palm to palm. Apparently, nothing could be

transacted without that ceremony, whatever it might mean. Idlers

were everywhere celebrating the merits and "dacency" of the various

buyers and sellers. Huge greasy leather pocket-books, of undoubted

antiquity, were to be seen in many a hand, and rolls of bank-notes

were deftly changing owners. The ground, too, was beginning to

clear, and purchasers were driving off their cattle. Many of the

dealers who had disposed of stock were taking their ease in the inns.

You could see them looking out of the open windows; and occasionally

a man whose potations had been early and excessive went whooping

through the crowd. In a short time John returned with his friend.

"Captain Broster," said John, presenting him, "has promised to dine

with us at three. Sharp at the hour, mind, for we wish to leave

early."

"I'll be punctual as clockwork," said the captain, turning to look

after his purchases.

[Sidenote: The Welsh forgemen.]

We strolled up and down till three o'clock, and then bent our steps

to the inn, where we found Broster waiting. In honour to his guests

the landlord himself brought in dinner, and waited with great

diligence. When the table was cleared we had punch and cigars, and

sat chatting at the open window. The space in front was tolerably

clear of cattle now, but dealers were hovering about, standing in

clumps, or promenading in parties of twos and threes. But at this

point a new element had entered into the scene. It was dinner hour,

and many of the forgemen from the furnaces above had come down to see

what was going on. Huge, hulking, swarthy-featured fellows they

were. Welshmen, chiefly, as I was afterwards told, who, confident in

their strength, were at no pains to conceal their contempt for the

natives. They, too, mingled in the crowd, but the greater number

leaned lazily against the houses, smoking their short pipes, and

indulging in the dangerous luxury of "chaffing" the farmers. Many a

rude wit-combat was going on, accompanied by roars of laughter,

snatches of which we occasionally heard. Broster had been in the

Crimea, was wounded at Alma, recovered, went through all the work and

privation of the first winter of the siege, got knocked up, came home

on sick leave, and having had enough of it, as he frankly confessed,

took the opportunity on his father's death, which happened then, to

sell out and settle as a farmer on a small property to which he fell

heir. He chatted about the events of the war in an easy familiar

way, quietly, as if the whole affair had been a game at football; and

when courage, strength, and splendid prospects were changed by unseen

bullet, or grim bayonet stab, into a rude grave on the bleak plateau,

the thing was mentioned as a mere matter of course! Sometimes a

comrade's fate met with an expression of soldierly regret, slight and

indifferent enough, yet with a certain pathos which no high-flown

oration could reach. For the indifferent tone seemed to acquiesce in

destiny, to consider that disappointment had been too common in the

life of every man during the last six thousand years to warrant any

raving or passionate surprise at this time of day; that in any case

our ordinary pulse and breath beat our march to the grave; passion

the double-quick; and when it is all over, there is little need for

outcry and the shedding of tears over the eternal rest. [Sidenote:

The scuffle in the inn.] In the midst of his talk voices rose in one

of the apartments below; the noise became altercation, and

immediately a kind of struggling or dragging was heard in the flagged

passage, and then a tipsy forgeman was unceremoniously shot out into

the square, and the inn door closed with an angry bang. The

individual seemed to take the indignity in very good part; along he

staggered, his hands in his pockets, heedless of the satirical gibes

and remarks of his companions, who were smoking beneath our windows.

Looking out, we could see that his eyes were closed, as if he scorned

the outer world, possessing one so much more satisfactory within

himself. As he went he began to sing from sheer excess of happiness,

the following stanza coming distinctly to our ears:--

"When I was a chicken as big as a hen,

My mother 'ot me, an' I 'ot her agen;

My father came in for to see the r-r-rrow,

So I lifted my fist, an' I 'ot him a clow."

"I hope that fellow won't come to grief," said Broster, as the

forgeman lurched through a group of countrymen intent on a bargain,

and passed on without notice or apology, his eyes closed, and singing

as before--

"Ses my mother, ses she, There's a Peeler at hand."

[Sidenote: The fair fight.]

"By Jove, he's down at last, and there'll be the devil to pay!" We

looked out, the forgeman was prone in the dust, singing, and

apparently unconscious that he had changed his position. A party of

farmers were standing around laughing; one of them had put out his

foot and tripped the forgeman as he passed. The next moment a

bare-armed black-browed hammersmith strode out from the wall, and,

without so much as taking the pipe from his mouth, felled the dealer

at a blow, and then looked at his companions as if wishing to be

informed if he could do anything in the same way for them. The blow

was a match dropped in a powder magazine. Alelu! to the combat.

There were shouts and yells. Insult had been rankling long in the

breasts of both parties. Old scores had to be paid off. From every

quarter, out of the inns, leaving potheen and ale, down the streets

from among the cattle, the dealers came rushing to the fray. The

forgemen mustered with alacrity, as if battle were the breath of

their nostrils. In a few seconds the square was the scene of a

general _mêlée_. The dealers fought with their short heavy sticks;

the forgemen had but the weapons nature gave, but their arms were

sinewed with iron, and every blow told like a hammer. These last

were overpowered for a while, but the alarm had already spread to the

furnaces above, and parties of twos and threes came at a run, and

flung themselves in to the assistance of their companions. Just at

this moment a couple of constables pressed forward into the yelling

crowd. A hammersmith came behind one, and seizing his arms, held

him, despite his struggles, firmly as in a vice. The other was

knocked over and trampled under foot. "Good heavens, murder will be

done," cried Broster, lifting his heavy whip from the table; "we must

try and put an end to this disgraceful scene. Will you join me?"

"With heart and soul," said Penruddock, "and there is no time to be

lost. Come along." At the foot of the stair we found the landlord

shaking in every limb. He had locked the door, and was standing in

the passage with the key in his hand. "M'Queen, we want out; open

the door."

"Shure, jintlemen, you're not goin' just now. You'll be torn to

paces if you go."

"If you won't open the door, give me the key, and I'll open it

myself."

[Sidenote: Black Jem.]

The landlord passively yielded. Broster unlocked the door, and flung

the key down on the flagged passage. "Now, my lads," cried he to

half-a-dozen countrymen who were hanging-on spectators on the skirts

of the combat, and at the same time twisting his whip-lash tightly

round his right hand till the heavy-leaded head became a formidable

weapon, a blow from which would be effective on any skull of ordinary

susceptibility; "Now, my lads, we are resolved to put an end to this;

will you assist us?" The captain's family had been long resident in

the county, he was himself personally known to all of them, and a

cheerful "Ay, ay," was the response. "Penruddock, separate them when

you can, knock them over when you can't, Welshman or Irishman, it's

quite the same." So saying, in we drove. Broster clove a way for

himself, distributing his blows with great impartiality, and knocking

over the combatants like nine-pins. We soon reached the middle of

the square, where the fight was hottest. The captain was swept away

in an eddy for a moment, and right in front of Penruddock and myself

two men were grappling on the ground. As they rolled over, we saw

that one was the hammersmith who had caused the whole affray. We

flung ourselves upon them, and dragged them up. The dealer, with

whom I was more particularly engaged, had got the worst of it, and

plainly wasn't sorry to be released from the clutches of his

antagonist. With his foe it was different. His slow sullen blood

was fairly in a blaze, and when Pen pushed him aside, he dashed at

him and struck him a severe blow on the face. In a twinkling

Penruddock's coat was off, while the faintest stream of blood

trickled from his upper lip. "Well, my man," said he, as he stood up

ready for action, "if that's the game you mean to play at, I hope to

give you a bellyful before I've done." "Seize that man, knock him

over," said Broster; "you're surely not going to fight _him_,

Penruddock, it's sheer madness; knock him over." "I tell you what it

is," said Penruddock, turning savagely, "you shan't deprive me of the

luxury of giving this fellow a sound hiding." Broster shrugged his

shoulders, as if giving up the case. By this time the cry arose,

"Black Jem's goin' to fight the gentleman;" and a wide enough ring

was formed. [Sidenote: The fight.] Many who were prosecuting small

combats of their own desisted, that they might behold the greater

one. Broster stood beside John. "He's an ugly mass of strength,"

whispered he, "and will hug you like a bear; keep him well off, and

remain cool for Heaven's sake." "Ready?" said John, stepping

forward. "As a lark i' the mornin'," growled Jem, as he took up his

ground. The men were very wary--Jem retreating round and round, John

advancing. Now and then one or other darted out a blow, but it was

generally stopped, and no harm done. At last the blows went home;

the blood began to rise. The men drew closer, and struck with

greater rapidity. They are at it at last, hammer and tongs. No

shirking or flinching now. Jem's blood was flowing. He was

evidently getting severely punished. He couldn't last long at that

rate. He fought desperately for a close, when a blinding blow full

in the face brought him to the earth. He got up again like a madman,

the whole bull-dog nature of him possessed and mastered by brutal

rage. He cursed and struggled in the arms of his supporters to get

at his enemy, but by main force they held him back till he recovered

himself. "He'll be worked off in another round," I heard Broster

whisper in my ear. Ah! here they come! I glanced at Pen for a

moment as he stood with his eye on his foe. There was that in his

face that boded no good. The features had hardened into iron

somehow; the pitiless mouth was clenched, the eye cruel. A hitherto

unknown part of his nature revealed itself to me as he stood

there--perhaps unknown to himself. God help us, what strangers we

are to ourselves! In every man's nature there is an interior

unexplored as that of Africa, and over that region what wild beasts

may roam! But they are at it again; Jem still fights for a close,

and every time his rush is stopped by a damaging blow. They are

telling rapidly; his countenance, by no means charming at the best,

is rapidly transforming. Look at that hideously gashed lip! But he

has dodged Penruddock's left this time, and clutched him in his

brawny arms. Now comes the tug of war, skill pitted against skill,

strength against strength. They breathe for a little in each other's

grip, as if summoning every energy. They are at it now, broad chest

to chest. Now they seem motionless, but by the quiver of their

frames you can guess the terrific strain going on. Now one has the

better, now the other, as they twine round each other, lithe and

supple as serpents. Penruddock yields! No! That's a bad dodge of

Jem's. By Jove he loses his grip. All is over with him. Pen's brow

grows dark; the veins start out on it; and the next moment Black Jem,

the hero of fifty fights, slung over his shoulder, falls heavily to

the ground.

[Sidenote: Retreat of the hammermen.]

At his fall a cheer rose from the dealers. "You blacksmith fellows

had better make off," cried Broster; "your man has got the thrashing

he deserves, and you can carry him home with you. I am resolved to

put a stop to these disturbances--there have been too many of late."

The furnacemen hung for a moment irresolute, seemingly half-inclined

to renew the combat, but a formidable array of cattle-dealers pressed

forward and turned the scale. They decided on a retreat. Black Jem,

who had now come to himself, was lifted up, and, supported by two

men, retired toward the works and dwellings on the upper grounds,

accompanied by his companions, who muttered many a surly oath and vow

of future vengeance.

When we got back to the inn, Pen was very anxious about his face. He

washed, and carefully perused his features in the little

looking-glass. Luckily, with the exception of the upper lip slightly

cut by Jim's first blow, no mark of the combat presented itself. At

this happy result of his investigations he expressed great

satisfaction--Broster laughing the meanwhile, and telling him that he

was as careful of his face as a young lady.

The captain came down to see us off. The fair was over now, and the

little streets were almost deserted. The dealers--apprehensive of

another descent from the furnaces--had hurried off as soon as their

transactions could in any way permit. Groups of villagers, however,

were standing about the doors discussing the event of the day; and

when Penruddock appeared he became, for a quarter of an hour, an

object of public interest for the first time in his life, and so far

as he has yet lived for the last; an honour to which he did not seem

to attach any particular value.

We shook hands with the captain; then, at a touch of the whip, the

horse started at a gallant pace, scattering a brood of ducks in all

directions; and in a few minutes Keady--with its whitewashed houses

and dark row of furnaces, tipped with tongues of flame, pale and

shrunken yet in the lustre of the afternoon, but which would rush out

wild and lurid when the evening fell--lay a rapidly dwindling speck

behind.

[Sidenote: John Penruddock.]

I am induced to set down this business of the Irish market and market

fight in order that the reader may gather some idea of the kind of

man Penruddock was. He was not particularly witty, although on

occasion he could say a good and neat thing enough; on no subject was

he profoundly read; I don't think that he ever attempted to turn a

stanza, even when a boy and in love; he did not care for art; he was

only conscious of a blind and obscure delight in music, and even for

_that_ the music had to be of the simplest kind--melody, not harmony.

He had his limitations, you see: but as a man I have seldom met his

equal. He was sagacious, kindly, affectionate, docile, patient, and

unthinking of self. There was a peculiar deference in his ordinary

manner, as if he were continually in the presence of a lady. Above

all things, he was sincere, and you trusted Pen when you came to know

him as implicitly as you would a law of nature. If you were out in a

small boat in a storm with him; if you were ascending or descending a

steep rocky hill-face with him, and got giddy on his hands; if you

were in the heart of a snow-storm on the hills with him, when all

traces of the road were lost, and the cold began to make thick your

blood with the deadly pleasure of sleep--in such circumstances you

found out what he was: cool, courageous, helpful; full of resource,

with a quick brain, an iron nerve, a giant's strength. To the

possessor of such solid worth and manhood your merely brilliant

talker, your epigrammatist, your sayer of smart things, is

essentially a poor creature. What is wit?--a sounding brass and a

tinkling cymbal. What is epigram? Penruddock did not paint pictures

or write poems; it was his business "to make good sheep," as the Skye

people say, and magnificent sheep he did make.

Pen had an ideal sheep in his mind, and to reach that ideal he was

continually striving. At the yearly winnowings of his stock he

selected his breeding ewes with the utmost care, and these ewes,

without spot or blemish, he crossed with wonderfully-horned and

far-brought rams, for which he sometimes paid enormous prices--so at

least his neighbours said. His sheep he bred in Skye for the most

part, and then he sent them over to Ulster to fatten. There, on

pasture and turnips, they throve amazingly, all their good points

coming into prominence, all their bad points stealing modestly into

the shade. At markets, Penruddock's sheep always brought excellent

prices, and his lot was certain to be about the best shown.

Pen and the Landlord had business relations. In partnership, they

brought over meal from Ireland, they speculated in turnips, they

dealt in curious manures which were to the sour Skye soil what

plum-pudding is to a charity boy: above all, he was confederate in a

scheme of emigration which the Landlord had concocted, and was in the

course of carrying out. Pen's visit at this time was purely a

business one: he wished to see me, but that was far from his sole

motive in coming--so he frankly said. But I did not care for that; I

was quite able to bear the truth, and was glad to have him on any

conditions.

_A SMOKING PARLIAMENT._

[Sidenote: The opposite side of the street.]

One morning after our return, when breakfast was over, the Landlord,

followed by Maida, carried the parrot into the sunshine in front of

the house, and, sitting down on one of the iron seats, lighted a

cheroot. As there was nothing on the cards on that special morning,

we all followed him, and, lifting his cheroot-case, helped ourselves.

The morning was warm and pleasant; and as no one had anything

particular to say, we smoked in silence and were happy. The only one

who was occupied was Fellowes. A newspaper had reached him by post

the evening before, and with its pages he was now busy. Suddenly he

burst out laughing, and read out from a half column of _facetiæ_ how

an Irishman was anxious to discover the opposite side of the street,

and making inquiries at the passengers, was kept knocking about from

one side of the thoroughfare to the other, like a ball in a

racket-court. Pat was told that the opposite side of the street was

"over there;" and when he got "over there," to his sore bewilderment

he discovered that the opposite side of the street, as if on purpose

to torment him, had slipped anchor and flitted away to the side on

which he had been making inquiries a few moments previously. We all

laughed at Pat's intellectual perplexity; and shutting up the paper

Fellowes maintained, in the light cynical vein so common at present,

that the hunt after the opposite side of the street was no bad image

of the hunt after truth. "Truth is always 'over there,'" he said;

"and when you get 'over there,' running extreme peril from cab and

dray in crossing, you find that it has gone back to the place from

which you started. And so a man spends his life in chasing, and is

as far on at the end of it as he was at the beginning. No man ever

yet reached truth, or the opposite side of the street."

"What creatures those Irish are, to be sure!" said the Landlord, as

he knocked a feather of white ash from the tip of his cheroot; "it

would be a dull world without them. In India, a single Irishman at a

station is enough to banish blue devils. The presence of an Irishman

anywhere keeps away low spirits, just as a cat in a house keeps away

rats and mice. Every station should wear an Irishman, as an amulet

against despondency."

"I have lived a good deal both in Ireland and the Highlands," said

Pen, "and the intellectual differences between the two races have

often struck me as not a little curious. They are of the same stock

originally, antiquarians say; and yet Ireland is a land of Goshen,

overflowing with the milk and honey of humour, whereas in every

quality of humour the Highlands are as dry as the Sahara. Jokes

don't usually come farther north than the Grampians. One or two are

occasionally to be found in Ross-shire over there; but they are far

from common, and their appearance is chronicled in the local prints

just as the appearance of the capercailzie is chronicled. No joke

has yet been found strong-winged enough to cross the Kyles. That's

odd, is it not?"

[Sidenote: Highland wit.]

"But have not the Highlanders wit?"

"Oh yes, plenty of it, but rather of the strenuous than of the

playful kind; their wit is born for the most part of anger or

contempt. 'There she goes,' sneered the Englishman, as Duncan

marched past in his tartans at a fair.' 'There she lies,' retorted

Duncan, as he knocked the scorner over at a blow. 'Coming from Hell,

Lauchlan,' quoth the shepherd, proceeding on a sacrament Sunday to

the Free Church, and meeting his friend coming from the Church of the

Establishment. 'Better than going to it, Rory,' retorted Lauchlan,

as he passed on. Of that kind of rapid and sufficient retort, of the

power of returning a blow swiftly and with interest, the Highlander

is not in the least deficient. But he differs from the Irishman in

this--that he has no eye for the pleasantly droll side of things; he

has no fun in him, no sense of the genially comic. He laughs, but

there is generally a touch of scorn in his laughter, and it is almost

always directed against a man or a thing. The Irishman's humorous

sense puts a stitch in the torn coat, ekes the scanty purse, boils

the peas with which he is doomed to limp graveward. The bested

Highlander can draw no amelioration of condition from such a source.

The two races dine often scantily enough, but it is only the Irishman

that can sweeten his potatoes with point. 'They talk of hardships,'

said the poor Irish soldier as he lay down to sleep on the deck of

the transport--'They talk of hardships; but bedad this is the hardest

ship I ever was in in my life.' No Highlander would have said

_that_. And I believe that the joke made the hard plank all the

softer to the joker."

"And how do you account for this difference?"

"I can't account for it. The two races springing from the same

stock, I rather think it is _un_accountable; unless, indeed, it be

traceable to climatic influence,--the soft, green, rainy Erin

producing riant and ebullient natures; the bare, flinty Highlands,

hard and austere ones. There is one quality, however, in which your

Highlander can beat the world, with the exception, perhaps, of the

North American Indian."

[Sidenote: Pride of the Highlander.]

"What quality is that?"

"The quality of never exhibiting astonishment. The Highlander would

as soon think of turning his back on his foe as of expressing

astonishment at anything. Take a Highland lad from the wilds of Skye

or Harris and drop him in Cheapside, and he will retain the most

perfect equanimity. He will have no word of marvel for the crowds

and the vehicles; the Thames Tunnel will not move him; he will look

on St Paul's without flinching. The boy may have only ridden in a

peat-cart; but he takes a railway, the fields, hedges, bridges, and

villages spinning past, the howling gloom of the tunnels, the speed

that carries him in an hour over a greater extent of country than he

ever beheld in his life even from his highest hill-top, as the merest

matter of course, and unworthy of special remark."

"But the boy will be astonished all the same?"

"Of course he is. The very hair of his soul is standing on end with

wonder and terror, but he will make no sign; he is too proud. Will

he allow the Sassenach to triumph over him? If he did, he would not

be his father's son. He will not admit that earth holds anything

which he has not measured and weighed, and with which he is not

perfectly familiar. When Chingachgook groans at the stake in the

hearing of his tormentors, the Highlander will express surprise."

"This disinclination to express astonishment, if it does exist to the

extent you say amongst the Highlanders, must arise from a solitary

mode of living. People up in these Western Islands live on the

outskirts of existence, so to speak; and the knowledge that a big,

bustling, important world exists beyond their horizon 'intensifies

their individualism,' as the poet said the bracing air of old St

Andrews intensified his. They are driven in on themselves; they are

always standing in an attitude of mental self-defence; they become

naturally self-contained and self-sustained."

[Sidenote: Chaff.]

A summer in Skye, Volume 2 (of 2) · 第 8 / 14 段