CHAPTER XXXVII

SIAM[188]

1

The Buddhism of Siam does not differ materially from that of Burma and

Ceylon but merits separate mention, since it has features of its own

due in some measure to the fact that Siam is still an independent

kingdom ruled by a monarch who is also head of the Church. But whereas

for the last few centuries this kingdom may be regarded as a political

and religious unit, its condition in earlier times was different and

Siamese history tells us nothing of the introduction and first

diffusion of Indian religions in the countries between India and

China.

The people commonly known as Siamese call themselves Thăi which

(in the form Tai) appears to be the racial name of several tribes who

can be traced to the southern provinces of China. They spread thence,

in fanlike fashion, from Laos to Assam, and the middle section

ultimately descended the Menam to the sea. The Siamese claim to have

assumed the name Thăi (free) after they threw off the yoke of the

Cambojans, but this derivation is more acceptable to politics than to

ethnology. The territories which they inhabited were known as Siem,

Syâm or Syâma, which is commonly identified with the Sanskrit

Śyâma, dark or brown[189]. But the names Shan and A-hom seem to be

variants of the same word and Śyâma is possibly not its origin but

a learned and artificial distortion[190]. The Lao were another

division of the same race who occupied the country now called Laos

before the Tai had moved into Siam. This movement was gradual and

until the beginning of the twelfth century they merely established

small principalities, the principal of which was Lamphun[191], on the

western arm of the Mekong. They gradually penetrated into the kingdoms

of Svankalok, Sukhothai[192] and Lavo (Lophburi) which then were

vassals of Camboja, and they were reinforced by another body of Tais

which moved southwards early in the twelfth century. For some time the

Cambojan Empire made a successful effort to control these immigrants

but in the latter part of the thirteenth century the Siamese

definitely shook off its yoke and founded an independent state with

its capital at Sukhothai. There was probably some connection between

these events and the southern expeditions of Khubilai Khan who in 1254

conquered Talifu and set the Tai tribes in motion.

The history of their rule in Siam may be briefly described as a

succession of three kingdoms with capitals at Sukhothai, Ayuthia and

Bangkok respectively. Like the Burmese, the Siamese have annals or

chronicles. They fall into two divisions, the chronicles[193] of the

northern kingdom in three volumes which go down to the foundation of

Ayuthia and are admitted even by the Siamese to be mostly fabulous, and

the later annals in 40 volumes which were rearranged after the sack of

Ayuthia in 1767 but claim to begin with the foundation of the city.

Various opinions have been expressed as to their trustworthiness[194],

but it is allowed by all that they must be used with caution. More

authoritative but not very early are the inscriptions set up by various

kings, of which a considerable number have been published and

translated[195].

The early history of Sukhothai and its kings is not yet beyond dispute

but a monarch called Râmarâja or Râma Khomhëng played a considerable

part in it. His identity with Phăya Rùang, who is said to have

founded the dynasty and city, has been both affirmed and denied.

Sukhothai, at least as the designation of a kingdom, seems to be much

older than his reign[196]. It was undoubtedly understood as the

equivalent of the Sanskrit Sukhodaya, but like Śyâma it may be an

adaptation of some native word. In an important inscription found at

Sukhothai and now preserved at Bangkok[197], which was probably

composed about 1300 A.D., Râma Khomhëng gives an account of his

kingdom. On the east it extended to the banks of the Mekhong and

beyond it to Chavâ (perhaps a name of Luang-Prabang): on the south to

the sea, as far as Śrî Dharmarâja or Ligor: on the west to

Haṃsavatî or Pegu. This last statement is important for it enables

us to understand how at this period, and no doubt considerably

earlier, the Siamese were acquainted with Pali Buddhism. The king

states that hitherto his people had no alphabet but that he invented

one[198]. This script subsequently developed into the modern

Siamese writing which, though it presents many difficulties, is an

ingenious attempt to express a language with tones in an alphabet. The

vocabulary of Siamese is not homogeneous: it comprises (_a_) a

foundation of Thai, (_b_) a considerable admixture of Khmer words,

(_c_) an element borrowed from Malay and other languages, (_d_)

numerous ecclesiastical and learned terms taken from Pali and

Sanskrit. There are five tones which must be distinguished, if either

written or spoken speech is to be intelligible. This is done partly by

accents and partly by dividing the forty-four consonants (many of

which are superfluous for other purposes) into three groups, the high,

middle and deep.

The king also speaks of religion. The court and the inhabitants of

Sukhothai were devout Buddhists: they observed the season of Vassa and

celebrated the festival of Kaṭhina with processions, concerts and

reading of the scriptures. In the city were to be seen statues of the

Buddha and scenes carved in relief, as well as large monasteries. To

the west of the city was the Forest Monastery, presented to a

distinguished elder who came from Śri Dharmarâja and had studied

the whole Tripitaka. The mention of this official and others suggests

that there was a regular hierarchy and the king relates how he exhumed

certain sacred relics and built a pagoda over them. Though there is no

direct allusion to Brahmanism, stress is laid on the worship of

spirits and devas on which the prosperity of the kingdom depends.

The form of Buddhism described seems to have differed little from the

Hinayanism found in Siam to-day. Whence did the Siamese obtain it? For

some centuries before they were known as a nation, they probably

professed some form of Indian religion. They came from the border

lands, if not from the actual territory of China, and must have been

acquainted with Chinese Buddhism. Also Burmese influence probably

reached Yünnan in the eighth century[199], but it is not easy to say

what form of religion it brought with it. Still when the Thai entered

what is now Siam, it is likely that their religion was some form of

Buddhism. While they were subject to Camboja they must have felt the

influence of Śivaism and possibly of Mahayanist Sanskrit

Buddhism but no Pali Buddhism can have come from this quarter[200].

Southern Siam was however to some extent affected by another wave of

Buddhism. From early times the eastern coast of India (and perhaps

Ceylon) had intercourse not only with Burma but with the Malay

Peninsula. It is proved by inscriptions that the region of Ligor,

formerly known as Śrî Dharmarâja, was occupied by Hindus (who were

probably Buddhists) at least as early as the fourth century A.D.[201],

and Buddhist inscriptions have been found on the mainland opposite

Penang. The Chinese annals allude to a change in the customs of

Camboja and I-Ching says plainly that Buddhism once nourished there

but was exterminated by a wicked king, which may mean that Hinayanist

Buddhism had spread thither from Ligor but was suppressed by a dynasty

of Śivaites. He also says that at the end of the seventh century

Hinayanism was prevalent in the islands of the Southern Sea. An

inscription of about the fourth century found in Kedah and another of

the seventh or eighth from Phra Pathom both contain the formula _Ye

dharmâ_, etc. The latter inscription and also one from Mergui ascribed

to the eleventh century seem to be in mixed Sanskrit and Pali. The

Sukhothai inscription summarized above tells how a learned monk was

brought thither from Ligor and clearly the Pali Buddhism of northern

Siam may have followed the same route. But it probably had also

another more important if not exclusive source, namely Burma. After

the reign of Anawrata Pali Buddhism was accepted in Burma and in what

we now call the Shan States as the religion of civilized mankind and

this conviction found its way to the not very distant kingdom of

Sukhothai. Subsequently the Siamese recognized the seniority and

authority of the Sinhalese Church by inviting an instructor to come

from Ceylon, but in earlier times they can hardly have had direct

relation with the island.

We have another picture of religious life in a Khmer

inscription[202] of Lidaiya or Śrî Sûryavaṃsa Râma composed in

1361 or a little later. This monarch, who is also known by many

lengthy titles, appears to have been a man of learning who had

studied the Tipiṭaka, the Vedas, the Śâstrâgama and Dharmañâya

and erected images of Maheśvara and Vishnu as well as of the

Buddha. In 1361 he sent a messenger to Ceylon charged with the task of

bringing back a Metropolitan or head of the Saṇgha learned in the

Pitakas. This ecclesiastic, who is known only by his title, was duly

sent and on arriving in Siam was received with the greatest honour and

made a triumphal progress to Sukhothai. He is not represented as

introducing a new religion: the impression left by the inscription is

rather that the king and his people being already well-instructed in

Buddhism desired ampler edification from an authentic source. The

arrival of the Saṇgharâja coincided with the beginning of Vassa and

at the end of the sacred season the king dedicated a golden image of

the Buddha, which stood in the midst of the city, and then entered the

order. In doing so he solemnly declared his hope that the merit thus

acquired might make him in future lives not an Emperor, an Indra or a

Brahmâ but a Buddha able to save mankind. He pursued his religious

career with a gratifying accompaniment of miracles and many of the

nobility and learned professions followed his example. But after a

while a deputation waited on his Majesty begging him to return to the

business of his kingdom[203]. An edifying contest ensued. The monks

besought him to stay as their preceptor and guide: the laity pointed

out that government was at an end and claimed his attention. The

matter was referred to the Saṇgharâja who decided that the king

ought to return to his secular duties. He appears to have found little

difficulty in resuming lay habits for he proceeded to chastise the

people of Luang-Prabang.

Two other inscriptions[204], apparently dating from this epoch,

relate that a cutting of the Bo-tree was brought from Ceylon and

that certain relics (perhaps from Patna) were also installed with

great solemnity. To the same time are referred a series of engravings

on stone (not reliefs) found in the Vat-si-jum at Sukhothai. They

illustrate about 100 Jatakas, arranged for the most part according to

the order followed in the Pali Canon.

The facts that King Śrî Sûryavaṃsa sent to Ceylon for his

Metropolitan and that some of the inscriptions which extol his merits

are in Pali[205] make it probable that the religion which he professed

differed little from the Pali Buddhism which flourishes in Siam to-day

and this supposition is confirmed by the general tone of his

inscriptions. But still several phrases in them have a Mahayanist

flavour. He takes as his model the conduct of the Bodhisattvas,

described as ten headed by Metteyya, and his vow to become a Buddha

and save all creatures is at least twice mentioned. The Buddhas are

said to be innumerable and the feet of Bhikkhus are called Buddha

feet[206]. There is no difficulty in accounting for the presence of

such ideas: the only question is from what quarter this Mahayanist

influence came. The king is said to have been a student of Indian

literature: his country, like Burma, was in touch with China and his

use of the Khmer language indicates contact with Camboja.

Another inscription engraved by order of Dharmâsokarâja[207] and

apparently dating from the fourteenth century is remarkable for its

clear statement of the doctrine (generally considered as Mahayanist)

that merit acquired by devotion to the Buddha can be transferred. The

king states that a woman called Bunrak has transferred all her merit

to the Queen and that he himself makes over all his merit to his

teacher, to his relations and to all beings in unhappy states of

existence.

At some time in this period the centre of the Thai empire changed

but divergent views have been held as to the date[208] and character

of this event. It would appear that in 1350 a Siamese subsequently

known as King Râmâdhipati, a descendant of an ancient line of Thai

princes, founded Ayuthia as a rival to Sukhothai. The site was not

new, for it had long been known as Dvâravatî and seems to be mentioned

under that name by I-Ching (_c._ 680), but a new city was apparently

constructed. The evidence of inscriptions indicates that Sukhothai was

not immediately subdued by the new kingdom and did not cease to be a

royal residence for some time. But still Ayuthia gradually became

predominant and in the fifteenth century merited the title of capital

of Siam.

Its rise did not affect the esteem in which Buddhism was held, and it

must have contained many great religious monuments. The jungles which

now cover the site of the city surround the remnants of the Wăt

Somarokot, in which is a gigantic bronze Buddha facing with scornful

calm the ruin which threatens him. The Wăt Chern, which lies at

some distance, contains another gigantic image. A curious

inscription[209] engraved on an image of Śiva found at Sukhothai

and dated 1510 A.D. asserts the identity of Buddhism and Brahmanism,

but the popular feeling was in favour of the former. At Ayuthia the

temples appear to be exclusively Buddhist and at Lophburi ancient

buildings originally constructed for the Brahmanic cult have been

adapted to Buddhist uses. It was in 1602 that the mark known as the

footprint of Buddha was discovered at the place now called Phra-bat.

Ayuthia was captured by the Burmese in 1568 and the king was carried

into captivity but the disaster was not permanent, for at the end of

the century the power of the Siamese reached its highest point and

their foreign relations were extensive. We hear that five hundred

Japanese assisted them to repulse a Burmese attack and that there was

a large Japanese colony in Ayuthia. On the other hand when Hideyoshi

invaded Korea in 1592, the Siamese offered to assist the Chinese.

Europeans appeared first in 1511 when the Portuguese took Malacca.

But on the whole the dealings of Siam with Europe were peaceful

and both traders and missionaries were welcomed. The most singular

episode in this international intercourse was the career of the Greek

adventurer Constantine Phaulcon who in the reign of King Nărai was

practically Foreign Minister. In concert with the French missionaries

he arranged an exchange of embassies (1682 and 1685) between Nărai

and Louis XIV, the latter having been led to suppose that the king and

people of Siam were ready to embrace Christianity. But when the French

envoys broached the subject of conversion, the king replied that he

saw no reason to change the religion which his countrymen had

professed for two thousand years, a chronological statement which it

might be hard to substantiate. Still, great facilities were given to

missionaries and further negotiations ensued, in the course of which

the French received almost a monopoly of foreign trade and the right

to maintain garrisons. But the death of Nărai was followed by a

reaction. Phaulcon died in prison and the French garrisons were

expelled. Buddhism probably flourished at this period for the

Mahâvaṃsa tells us that the king of Ceylon sent to Ayuthia for

monks in 1750 because religion there was pure and undefiled.

Ayuthia continued to be the capital until 1767 when it was laid in

ruins by the Burmese who, though Buddhists, did not scruple to destroy

or deface the temples and statues with which it was ornamented. But

the collapse of the Siamese was only local and temporary. A leader of

Chinese origin named Phăya Täk Sin rallied their forces, cleared

the Burmese out of the country and made Bangkok, officially described

as the Capital of the Angels, the seat of Government. But he was

deposed in 1782 and one of the reasons for his fall seems to have been

a too zealous reformation of Buddhism. In the troublous times

following the collapse of Ayuthia the Church had become disorganized

and corrupt, but even those who desired improvement would not assent

to the powers which the king claimed over monks. A new dynasty (of

which the sixth monarch is now on the throne) was founded in 1782 by

Chao Phăya Chakkri. One of his first acts was to convoke a council

for the revision of the Tipiṭaka and to build a special hall in

which the text thus agreed on was preserved. His successor Phra:

Buddha Löt La is considered the best poet that Siam has produced and

it is probably the only country in the world where this

distinction has fallen to the lot of a sovereign. The poet king had

two sons, Phra: Nang: Klao, who ascended the throne after his death,

and Mongkut, who during his brother's reign remained in a monastery

strictly observing the duties of a monk. He then became king and

during his reign (1851-1868) Siam "may be said to have passed from the

middle ages to modern times[210]." It is a tribute to the excellence

of Buddhist discipline that a prince who spent twenty-six years as a

monk should have emerged as neither a bigot nor an impractical mystic

but as an active, enlightened and progressive monarch. The equality

and simplicity of monastic life disposed him to come into direct touch

with his subjects and to adopt straightforward measures which might

not have occurred to one who had always been surrounded by a wall of

ministers. While still a monk he founded a stricter sect which aimed

at reviving the practice of the Buddha, but at the same time he

studied foreign creeds and took pleasure in conversing with

missionaries. He wrote several historical pamphlets and an English

Grammar, and was so good a mathematician that he could calculate the

occurrence of an eclipse. When he became king he regulated the

international position of Siam by concluding treaties of friendship

and commerce with the principal European powers, thus showing the

broad and liberal spirit in which he regarded politics, though a

better acquaintance with the ways of Europeans might have made him

refuse them extraterritorial privileges. He abolished the custom which

obliged everyone to keep indoors when the king went out and he

publicly received petitions on every Uposatha day. He legislated

against slavery[211], gambling, drinking spirits and smoking opium and

considerably improved the status of women. He also published edicts

ordering the laity to inform the ecclesiastical authorities if they

noticed any abuses in the monasteries. He caused the annals of Siam to

be edited and issued numerous orders on archaeological and literary

questions, in which, though a good Pali scholar, he deprecated the

affected use of Pali words and enjoined the use of a terse and simple

Siamese style, which he certainly wrote himself. He appears to

have died of scientific zeal for he caught a fatal fever on a trip

which he took to witness a total eclipse of the sun.

He was succeeded by his son Chulalongkorn[212] (1868-1911), a liberal

and enlightened ruler, who had the misfortune to lose much territory

to the French on one side and the English on the other. For religion,

his chief interest is that he published an edition of the Tipiṭaka.

The volumes are of European style and printed in Siamese type, whereas

Cambojan characters were previously employed for religious works.

2

As I have already observed, there is not much difference between

Buddhism in Burma and Siam. In mediæval times a mixed form of religion

prevailed in both countries and Siam was influenced by the Brahmanism

and Mahayanism of Camboja. Both seem to have derived a purer form of

the faith from Pegu, which was conquered by Anawrata in the eleventh

century and was the neighbour of Sukhothai so long as that kingdom

lasted. Both had relations with Ceylon and while venerating her as the

metropolis of the faith also sent monks to her in the days of her

spiritual decadence. But even in externals some differences are

visible. The gold and vermilion of Burma are replaced in Siam by more

sober but artistic tints--olive, dull purple and dark orange--and the

change in the colour scheme is accompanied by other changes in the

buildings.

A religious establishment in Siam consists of several edifices and is

generally known as Wăt[213], followed by some special designation

such as Wăt Chang. Bangkok is full of such establishments mostly

constructed on the banks of the river or canals. The entrance is

usually guarded by gigantic and grotesque figures which are often

lions, but at the Wăt Phô in Bangkok the tutelary demons are

represented by curious caricatures of Europeans wearing tall hats. The

gate leads into several courts opening out of one another and not

arranged on any fixed plan. The first is sometimes surrounded by a

colonnade in which are set a long line of the Buddha's eighty

disciples. The most important building in a Wăt is known as

Bỗt[214]. It has a colonnade of pillars outside and is surmounted

by three or four roofs, not much raised one above the other, and

bearing finials of a curious shape, said to represent a snake's

head[215]. It is also marked off by a circuit of eight stones, cut in

the shape of Bo-tree leaves, which constitute a sîmâ or boundary. It

is in the Bỗt that ordinations and other acts of the Sangha are

performed. Internally it is a hall: the walls are often covered with

paintings and at the end there is always a sitting figure of the

Buddha[216] forming the apex of a pyramid, the lower steps of which

are decorated with smaller images and curious ornaments, such as

clocks under glass cases.

Siamese images of the Buddha generally represent him as crowned by a

long flame-like ornament called Sĩrô rồt[217], probably

representing the light supposed to issue from the prominence on his

head. But the ornament sometimes becomes a veritable crown terminating

in a spire, as do those worn by the kings of Camboja and Siam. On the

left and right of the Buddha often stand figures of Phra: Môkha: la

(Moggalâna) and Phra: Sárĩbŭt (Sâriputta). It is stated that the

Siamese pray to them as saints and that the former is invoked to heal

broken limbs[218]. The Buddha when represented in frescoes is robed in

red but his face and hands are of gold. Besides the Bỗt a Wăt

contains one or more wĩháns. The word is derived from _Vihâra_ but

has come to mean an image-house. The wĩháns are halls not unlike

the Bỗts but smaller. In a large Wăt there is usually one

containing a gigantic recumbent image of the Buddha and they sometimes

shelter Indian deities such as Yama.

In most if not in all Wăt there are structures known as Phra: chedi

and Phra: prang. The former are simply the ancient cetiyas, called

dagobas in Ceylon and zedis in Burma. They do not depart materially

from the shape usual in other countries and sometimes, for

instance in the gigantic chedi at Pra Pratom, the part below the spire

is a solid bell-shaped dome. But Siamese taste tends to make such

buildings slender and elongate and they generally consist of stone

discs of decreasing size, set one on the other in a pile, which

assumes in its upper parts the proportions of a flagstaff rather than

of a stone building. The Phra: prangs though often larger than the

Phra: chedis are proportionally thicker and less elongate. They appear

to be derived from the Brahmanic temple towers of Camboja which

consist of a shrine crowned by a dome. But in Siam the shrine is often

at some height above the ground and is reduced to small dimensions,

sometimes becoming a mere niche. In large Phra: prangs it is

approached by a flight of steps outside and above it rises the tower,

terminating in a metal spire. But whereas in the Phra: chedis these

spires are simple, in the Phra: prangs they bear three crescents

representing the trident of Śiva and appear like barbed arrows. A

large Wat is sure to contain a number of these structures and may also

comprise halls for preaching, a pavilion covering a model of Buddha's

foot print, tanks for ablution and a bell tower. It is said that only

royal Wats contain libraries and buildings called chẵtta mŭkh,

which shelter a four-faced image of Brahmâ[219].

The monks are often housed in single chambers arranged round the

courts of a Wat but sometimes in larger buildings outside it. The

number of monks and novices living in one monastery is larger than in

Burma, and according to the Bangkok Directory (1907) works out at an

average of about 12. In the larger Wats this figure is considerably

exceeded. Altogether there were 50,764 monks and 10,411 novices in

1907[220], the province of Ayuthia being decidedly the best provided

with clergy. As in Burma, it is customary for every male to spend some

time in a monastery, usually at the age of about 20, and two months is

considered the minimum which is respectable. It is also common to

enter a monastery for a short stay on the day when a parent is

cremated. During the season of Vassa all monks go out to collect

alms but at other seasons only a few make the daily round and the food

collected, as in Burma and Ceylon, is generally not eaten. But during

the dry season it is considered meritorious for monks to make a

pilgrimage to Phra Bât and while on the way to live on charity. They

engage to some extent in manual work and occupy themselves with

carpentering[221]. As in Burma, education is in their hands, and they

also act as doctors, though their treatment has more to do with charms

and faith cures than with medicine.

As in Burma there are two sects, the ordinary unreformed body, and the

rigorous and select communion founded by Mongkut and called Dhammayut.

It aims at a more austere and useful life but in outward observances

the only distinction seems to be that the Dhammayuts hold the

alms-bowl in front of them in both hands, whereas the others hold it

against the left hip with the left hand only. The hierarchy is well

developed but somewhat secularized, though probably not more so than

it was in India under Asoka. In the official directory where the

departments of the Ministry of Public Instruction are enumerated, the

Ecclesiastical Department comes immediately after the Bacteriological,

the two being clearly regarded as different methods of expelling evil

spirits. The higher clerical appointments are made by the king. He

names four Primates[222], one of whom is selected as chief. The

Primates with nineteen superior monks form the highest governing body

of the Church. Below them are twelve dignitaries called Gurus, who are

often heads of large Wats. There are also prelates who bear the

Cambojan title of Burien equivalent to Mahâcârya. They must have

passed an examination in Pali and are chiefly consulted on matters of

ceremonial.

It will thus be seen that the differences between the churches of

Burma, Ceylon and Siam are slight; hardly more than the local

peculiarities which mark the Roman church in Italy, Spain, and

England. Different opinions have been expressed as to the moral tone

and conduct of Siamese monks and most critics state that they are

somewhat inferior to their Burmese brethren. The system by which

a village undertakes to support a monk, provided that he is a

reasonably competent school-master and of good character, works well.

But in the larger monasteries it is admitted that there are inmates

who have entered in the hope of leading a lazy life and even fugitives

from justice. Still the penalty for any grave offence is immediate

expulsion by the ecclesiastical authorities and the offender is

treated with extreme severity by the civil courts to which he then

becomes amenable.

The religious festivals of Siam are numerous and characteristic. Many

are Buddhist, some are Brahmanic, and some are royal. Uposatha days (wăn

phra:) are observed much as in Burma. The birth, enlightenment and death

of the Buddha (which are all supposed to have taken place on the 15th

day of the 6th waxing moon) are celebrated during a three days festival.

These three days are of peculiar solemnity and are spent in the

discharge of religious duties, such as hearing sermons and giving alms.

But at most festivals religious observances are mingled with much

picturesque but secular gaiety. In the morning the monks do not go their

usual round[223] and the alms-bowls are arranged in a line within the

temple grounds. The laity (mostly women) arrive bearing wicker trays on

which are vessels containing rice and delicacies. They place a selection

of these in each bowl and then proceed to the Bỗt where they hear the

commandments recited and often vow to observe for that day some which

are usually binding only on monks. While the monks are eating their meal

the people repair to a river, which is rarely far distant in Siam, and

pour water drop by drop saying "May the food which we have given for the

use of the holy ones be of benefit to our fathers and mothers and to all

of our relatives who have passed away." This rite is curiously in

harmony with the injunctions of the Tirokuḍḍasuttam in the

Khuddakapâtha, which is probably an ancient work[224]. The rest of the

day is usually devoted to pious merrymaking, such as processions by day

and illuminations by night. On some feasts the laws against gambling

are suspended and various games of chance are freely indulged in. Thus

the New Year festival called Trŭ̃t (or Krŭ̃t) Thăi lasts three days.

On the first two days, especially the second, crowds fill the temples to

offer flowers before the statues of Buddha and more substantial presents

of food, clothes, etc., to the clergy. Well-to-do families invite monks

to their houses and pass the day in listening to their sermons and

recitations. Companies of priests are posted round the city walls to

scare away evil spirits and with the same object guns are fired

throughout the night. But the third day is devoted to gambling by almost

the whole population except the monks. Not dissimilar is the celebration

of the Só̆ngkran holidays, at the beginning of the official year. The

special religious observance at this feast consists in bathing the

images of Buddha and in theory the same form of watery respect is

extended to aged relatives and monks. In practice its place is taken by

gifts of perfumes and other presents.

The rainy season is preceded and ended by holidays. During this period

both monks and pious laymen observe their religious duties more

strictly. Thus monks eat only once a day and then only what is put into

their bowls and laymen observe some of the minor vows. At the end of the

rains come the important holidays known as Thòt Kăthí̆n[225], when

robes are presented to monks. This festival has long had a special

importance in Siam. Thus Râma Khomhëng in his inscription of A.D.

1292[226] describes the feast of Kaṭhina which lasts a month. At the

present day many thousands of robes are prepared in the capital alone so

as to be ready for distribution in October and November, when the king

or some deputy of high rank visits every temple and makes the offering

in person. During this season Bangkok witnesses a series of brilliant

processions.

These festivals mentioned may be called Buddhist though their

light-hearted and splendour-loving gaiety, their processions and

gambling are far removed from the spirit of Gotama. Others however are

definitely Brahmanic and in Bangkok are superintended by the Brahmans

attached to the Court. Since the time of Mongkut Buddhist priests are

also present as a sign that the rites, if not ordered by Buddhism, at

least have its countenance. Such is the R`ëk Na[227], or

ploughing festival. The king is represented by the Minister of

Agriculture who formerly had the right to exact from all shops found

open such taxes as he might claim for his temporary sovereignty. At

present he is escorted in procession to Dusit[228], a royal park

outside Bangkok, where he breaks ground with a plough drawn by two

white oxen.

Somewhat similar is the Thĩb-Chĩng-Cha, or Swinging holidays, a

two days' festival which seems to be a harvest thanksgiving. Under the

supervision of a high official, four Brahmans wearing tall conical

hats swing on a board suspended from a huge frame about 100 ft high.

Their object is to catch with their teeth a bag of money hanging at a

little distance from the swing. When three or four sets of swingers

have obtained a prize in this way, they conclude the ceremony by

sprinkling the ground with holy water contained in bullock horns.

Swinging is one of the earliest Indian rites[229] and as part of the

worship of Krishna it has lasted to the present day. Yet another

Brahmanic festival is the Loi Kăthŏng[230], when miniature rafts

and ships bearing lights and offerings are sent down the Menam to the

sea.

Another class of ceremonies may be described as royal, inasmuch as

they are religious only in so far as they invoke religion to protect

royalty. Such are the anniversaries of the birth and coronation of the

king and the Thú̓ Năm or drinking of the water of allegiance

which takes place twice a year. At Bangkok all officials assemble at

the Palace and there drink and sprinkle on their heads water in which

swords and other weapons have been dipped thus invoking vengeance on

themselves should they prove disloyal. Jars of this water are

despatched to Governors who superintend the performance of the same

ceremony in the provincial capitals. It is only after the water

has been drunk that officials receive their half yearly salary. Monks

are excused from drinking it but the chief ecclesiastics of Bangkok

meet in the Palace temple and perform a service in honour of the

occasion.

Besides these public solemnities there are a number of domestic

festivals derived from the twelve Saṃskâras of the Hindus. Of these

only three or four are kept up by the nations of Indo-China, namely

the shaving of the first hair of a child a month after birth, the

giving of a name, and the piercing of the ears for earrings. This last

is observed in Burma and Laos, but not in Siam and Camboja where is

substituted for it the Kôn Chũ̆k or shaving of the topknot, which

is allowed to grow until the eleventh or thirteenth year. This

ceremony, which is performed on boys and girls alike, is the most

important event in the life of a young Siamese and is celebrated by

well-to-do parents with lavish expenditure. Those who are indigent

often avail themselves of the royal bounty, for each year a public

ceremony is performed in one of the temples of Bangkok at which poor

children receive the tonsure gratis. An elaborate description of the

tonsure rites has been published by Gerini[231]. They are of

considerable interest as showing how closely Buddhist and Brahmanic

rites are intertwined in Siamese family life.

Marriages are celebrated with a feast to which monks are invited but

are not regarded as religious ceremonies. The dead are usually

disposed of by cremation, but are often kept some time, being either

embalmed or simply buried and exhumed subsequently. Before cremation

the coffin is usually placed within the grounds of a temple. The monks

read Suttas over it and it is said[232] that they hold ribbons which

enter into the coffin and are supposed to communicate to the corpse

the merit acquired by the recitations and prayers.

3

In the preceding pages mention has often been made not only of

Brahmanic rites but of Brahman priests[233]. These are still to be

found in Bangkok attached to the Court and possibly in other cities.

They dress in white and have preserved many Hindu usages but are said

to be poor Sanskrit scholars. Indeed Gerini[234] seems to say that

they use Pali in some of their recitations. Their principal duty is to

officiate at Court functions, but wealthy families invite them to take

part in domestic rites, and also to cast horoscopes and fix lucky

days. It is clear that the presence of these Brahmans is no

innovation. Brahmanism must have been strong in Siam when it was a

province of Camboja, but in both countries gave way before Buddhism.

Many rites, however, connected with securing luck or predicting the

future were too firmly established to be abolished, and, as Buddhist

monks were unwilling to perform them[235] or not thought very

competent, the Brahmans remained and were perhaps reinforced from time

to time by new importations, for there are still Brahman colonies in

Ligor and other Malay towns. Siamese lawbooks, like those of Burma,

seem to be mainly adaptations of Indian Dharmaśâstras.

On a cursory inspection, Siamese Buddhism, especially as seen in

villages, seems remarkably free from alien additions. But an

examination of ancient buildings, of royal temples in Bangkok and

royal ceremonial, suggests on the contrary that it is a mixed faith in

which the Brahmanic element is strong. Yet though this element appeals

to the superstition of the Siamese and their love of pageantry, I

think that as in Burma it has not invaded the sphere of religion and

ethics more than the Piṭakas themselves allow. In art and

literature its influence has been considerable. The story of the

Ramayana is illustrated on the cloister walls of the royal temple at

Bangkok and Indian mythology has supplied a multitude of types to the

painter and sculptor; such as Yŏmma: ràt (Yâma), Phăya Man

(Mâra), Phra: In (Indra). These are all deities known to the

Piṭakas but the sculptures or images[236] in Siamese temples also

include Ganeśa, Phra: Nărai (Nârâyana or Vishṇu) riding

on the Garuda and Phra: Isuén (Śiva) riding on a bull. There is a

legend that the Buddha and Śiva tried which could make himself

invisible to the other. At last the Buddha sat on Śiva's head and

the god being unable to see him acknowledged his defeat. This story is

told to explain a small figure which Śiva bears on his head and

recalls the legend found in the Piṭakas[237] that the Buddha made

himself invisible to Brahmâ but that Brahmâ had not the corresponding

power. Lingas are still venerated in a few temples, for instance at

Wăt Phô in Bangkok, but it would appear that the majority (_e.g._

those found at Pra Pratom and Lophburi) are survivals of ancient

Brahmanic worship and have a purely antiquarian importance. The

Brahmanic cosmology which makes Mt. Meru the centre of this Universe is

generally accepted in ecclesiastical treatises and paintings, though

the educated Siamese may smile at it, and when the topknot of a

Siamese prince is cut off, part of the ceremony consists in his being

received by the king dressed as Śiva on the summit of a mound cut

in the traditional shape of Mt. Kailâśa.

Like the Nâts of Burma, Siam has a spirit population known as

Phís[238]. The name is occasionally applied to Indian deities, but the

great majority of Phís fall into two classes, namely, ghosts of the

dead and nature spirits which, though dangerous, do not rise above the

position of good or bad fairies. In the first class are included the

Phí Prẽt, who have the characteristics as well as the name of the

Indian Pretas, and also a multitude of beings who like European

ghosts, haunt houses and behave in a mysterious but generally

disagreeable manner. The Phíăm is apparently our nightmare. The

ghosts of children dying soon after birth are apt to kill their

mothers and in general women are liable to be possessed by Phís. The

ghosts of those who have died a violent death are dangerous but it

would seem that Siamese magicians know how to utilize them as familiar

spirits. The better sort of ghosts are known as Chào Phí and shrines

called San Chào are set up in their honour. It does not however appear

that there is any hierarchy of Phís like the thirty-seven Náts of

Burma.

Among those Phís who are not ghosts of the dead the most important

is the Phí ru̓en or guardian spirit of each house. Frequently a

little shrine is erected for him at the top of a pole. There are also

innumerable Phís in the jungle mostly malevolent and capable of

appearing either in human form or as a dangerous animal. But the tree

spirits are generally benevolent and when their trees are cut down

they protect the houses that are made of them.

Thus the Buddhism of Siam, like that of Burma, has a certain admixture

of Brahmanism and animism. The Brahmanism is perhaps more striking

than in Burma on account of the Court ceremonies: the belief in

spirits, though almost universal, seems to be more retiring and less

conspicuous. Yet the inscription of Râma Komhëng mentioned above

asserts emphatically that the prosperity of the Empire depends on due

honour being shown to a certain mountain spirit[239].

It is pretty clear that the first introduction of Hinayanist Buddhism

into Siam was from Southern Burma and Pegu, but that somewhat later

Ceylon was accepted as the standard of orthodoxy. A learned thera who

knew the Sinhalese Tipitaka was imported thence, as well as a branch

of the Bo-tree. But Siamese patriotism flattered itself by imagining

that the national religion was due to personal contact with the

Buddha, although not even early legends can be cited in support of

such traditions. In 1602 a mark in the rocks, now known as the Phra:

Bãt, was discovered in the hills north of Ayuthia and identified as a

footprint of the Buddha similar to that found on Adam's Peak and in

other places. Burma and Ceylon both claim the honour of a visit from

the Buddha but the Siamese go further, for it is popularly believed

that he died at Praten, a little to the north of Phra Pathom, on a

spot marked by a slab of rock under great trees[240]. For this reason

when the Government of India presented the king of Siam with the

relics found in the Piprava vase, the gift though received with

honour, aroused little enthusiasm and was placed in a somewhat

secluded shrine[241].

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 188: The principal sources for information about Siamese

Buddhism are: _Journal of Siam Society_, 1904, and onwards.

L. Fournereau, _Le Siam Ancien_, 2 vols. 1895 and 1908 in _Annales du

Musée Guimet_. Cited here as Fournereau.

Mission Pavie II, _Histoire du Laos, du Cambodge et du Siam_, 1898.

Gerini, _Researches on Ptolemy's Geography of Eastern Asia_, 1909.

Cited here as Gerini, _Ptolemy_.

Gerini, _Chŭlăkantamangala or Tonsure Ceremony_, 1893.

H. Alabaster, _The Wheel of the Law_, 1871.

P.A. Thompson, _Lotus Land_, 1906.

W.A. Graham, _Siam_, 1912.

Petithuguenin, "Notes critiques pour servir à l'histoire du Siam,"

_B.E.F.E.O._ 1916, No. 3.

Coedès, "Documents sur la Dynastie de Sukhodaya," _ib._ 1917, No. 2.

Much curious information may be found in the _Directory for Bangkok

and Siam_, a most interesting book. I have only the issue for 1907.

I have adopted the conventional European spelling for such words as

may be said to have one. For other words I have followed Pallegoix's

dictionary (1896) for rendering the vowels and tones in Roman

characters, but have departed in some respects from his system of

transliterating consonants as I think it unnecessary and misleading to

write j and x for sounds which apparently correspond to y and ch as

pronounced in English.

The King of Siam has published a work on the spelling of His Majesty's

own language in Latin letters which ought to be authoritative, but it

came into my hands too late for me to modify the orthography here

adopted.

As Pallegoix's spelling involves the use of a great many accents I

have sometimes begun by using the strictly correct orthography and

afterwards a simpler but intelligible form. It should be noted that in

this orthography ":" is not a colon but a sign that the vowel before

it is very short.]

[Footnote 189: The name is found on Champan inscriptions of 1050 A.D.

and according to Gerini appears in Ptolemy's _Samarade_ =

Sâmaraṭṭha. See Gerini, _Ptolemy_, p. 170. But Samarade is

located near Bangkok and there can hardly have been Tais there in

Ptolemy's time.]

[Footnote 190: So too in Central Asia Kustana appears to be a learned

distortion of the name Khotan, made to give it a meaning in Sanskrit.]

[Footnote 191: Gerini states (_Ptolemy_, p. 107) that there are Pali

manuscript chronicles of Lamphun apparently going back to 924 A.D.]

[Footnote 192: Strictly Sŭkhồthăi.]

[Footnote 193: Phongsá va: dan or Vaṃsavâda. See for Siamese

chronicles, _B.E.F.E.O._ 1914, No. 3, "Recension palie des annales

d'Ayuthia," and _ibid._ 1916, pp. 5-7.]

[Footnote 194: _E.g._ Aymonier in _J.A._ 1903, p. 186, and Gerini in

_Journal of Siam Society_, vol. II. part 1, 1905.]

[Footnote 195: See especially Fournereau and the publications of the

Mission Pavie and _B.E.F.E.O._]

[Footnote 196: Gerini, _Ptolemy_, p. 176.]

[Footnote 197: See Fournereau, I. p. 225. _B.E.F.E.O._ 1916, III. pp.

8-13, and especially Bradley in _J. Siam Society_, 1909, pp. 1-68.]

[Footnote 198: This alphabet appears to be borrowed from Cambojan but

some of the letters particularly in their later shapes show the

influence of the Môn or Talaing script. The modern Cambojan alphabet,

which is commonly used for ecclesiastical purposes in Siam, is little

more than an elaborate form of Siamese.]

[Footnote 199: See _B.E.F.E.O._ 1904, p. 161.]

[Footnote 200: Bradley, _J. Siam Society_, 1913, p. 10, seems to think

that Pali Buddhism may have come thence but the objection is that we

know a good deal about the religion of Camboja and that there is no

trace of Pali Buddhism there until it was imported from Siam. The fact

that the Siamese alphabet was borrowed from Camboja does not prove

that religion was borrowed in the same way. The Mongol alphabet can be

traced to a Nestorian source.]

[Footnote 201: See for these inscriptions papers on the Malay

Peninsula and Siam by Finot and Lajonquière in _Bull. de la Comm.

Archéol. de l'Indo-Chine_, 1909, 1910 and 1912.]

[Footnote 202: Fournereau, pp. 157 ff. and Coedès in _B.E.F.E.O._

1917, No. 2. Besides the inscription itself, which is badly defaced in

parts, we have (1) a similar inscription in Thai, which is not however

a translation, (2) a modern Siamese translation, used by Schmitt but

severely criticized by Coedès and Petithuguenin.]

[Footnote 203: This portion of the narrative is found only in

Schmitt's version of the Siamese translation. The part of the stone

where it would have occurred is defaced.]

[Footnote 204: See Fournereau, vol. II. inscriptions xv and xvi and

the account of the Jâtakas, p. 43.]

[Footnote 205: Fournereau, I. pp. 247, 273. _B.E.F.E.O._ 1917, No. 2,

p. 29.]

[Footnote 206: See the texts in _B.E.F.E.O. l.c._ The Bodhisattvas are

described as Ariyametteyâdînam dasannam Bodhisattânam. The vow to

become a Buddha should it seems be placed in the mouth of the King,

not of the Metropolitan as in Schmitt's translation.]

[Footnote 207: See Fournereau, pp. 209 ff. Dharmâsokarâja may perhaps

be the same as Mahâdharmarâja who reigned 1388-1415. But the word may

also be a mere title applied to all kings of this dynasty, so that

this may be another inscription of Śrî Sûryavaṃsa Râma.]

[Footnote 208: 1350 is the accepted date but M. Aymonier, _J.A._ 1903,

pp. 185 ff. argues in favour of about 1460. See Fournereau, _Ancien

Siam_, p. 242, inscription of 1426 A.D. and p. 186, inscription of

1510 described as Groupe de Sajjanalaya et Sukhodaya.]

[Footnote 209: Fournereau, vol. I. pp. 186 ff.]

[Footnote 210: O. Frankfürter, "King Mongkut," _Journal of Siam

Society_, vol. I. 1904.]

[Footnote 211: But it was his son who first decreed in 1868 that no

Siamese could be born a slave. Slavery for debt, though illegal, is

said not to be practically extinct.]

[Footnote 212: = Cûlâlaṇkâra.]

[Footnote 213: The word has been derived from Vâta, a grove, but may

it not be the Pali Vatthu, Sanskrit Vâstu, a site or building?]

[Footnote 214: = Uposatha.]

[Footnote 215: These finials are very common on the roof ends of

Siamese temples and palaces. It is strange that they also are found in

conjunction with multiple roofs in Norwegian Churches of eleventh

century. See de Beylié, _Architecture hindoue dans l'extrême Orient_,

pp. 47, 48.]

[Footnote 216: The Buddha is generally known as Phra: Khodom

( = Gotama).]

[Footnote 217: In an old Siamese bronze from Kampeng Pet, figured in

Grünwedel's _Buddhist Art in India_, p. 179, fig. 127, the Sirô rồt

seems to be in process of evolution.]

[Footnote 218: P.A. Thompson, _Lotus Land_, 1906, p. 100.]

[Footnote 219: Four images facing the four quarters are considered in

Burma to represent the last four Buddhas and among the Jains some of

the Tirthankaras are so represented, the legend being that whenever

they preached they seemed to face their hearers on every side.]

[Footnote 220: These figures only take account of twelve out of the

seventeen provinces.]

[Footnote 221: Thompson, _Lotus Land_, p. 120.]

[Footnote 222: They bear the title of Só̆mdĕ̃t Phra: Chào

Ràjagama and have authority respectively over (_a_) ordinary Buddhists

in northern Siam, (_b_) ordinary Buddhists in the south, (_c_)

hermits, (_d_) the Dhammayut sect.]

[Footnote 223: For this and many other details I am indebted to P.A.

Thompson, _Lotus Land_, p. 123.]

[Footnote 224: When gifts of food are made to monks on ceremonial

occasions, they usually acknowledge the receipt by reciting verses 7

and 8 of this Sutta, commonly known as _Yathâ_ from the first word.]

[Footnote 225: Kathina in Pali. See Mahâvag. cap. VII.]

[Footnote 226: Fournereau, p. 225.]

[Footnote 227: The ploughing festival is a recognized imperial

ceremony in China. In India ceremonies for private landowners are

prescribed in the Gṛihya Sûtras but I do not know if their

performance by kings is anywhere definitely ordered. However in the

Nidâna Kathâ 270 the Buddha's father celebrates an imposing ploughing

ceremony.]

[Footnote 228: _I.e._ Tusita. Compare such English names descriptive

of beautiful scenery as Heaven's Gate.]

[Footnote 229: See Keith, _Aitereya Aranyaka_, pp. 174-178. The

ceremony there described undoubtedly originated in a very ancient

popular festival.]

[Footnote 230: _I.e._ float-raft. Most authors give the word as

Krathong, but Pallegoix prefers Kathong.]

[Footnote 231: _Chulakantamangalam_, Bangkok, 1893.]

[Footnote 232: P.A. Thompson, _Lotus Land_, p. 134.]

[Footnote 233: For the Brahmans of Siam see Frankfürter, _Oriental.

Archiv._ 1913, pp. 196-7.]

[Footnote 234: _Chulakantamangala_, p. 56.]

[Footnote 235: They are mostly observances such as Gotama would have

classed among "low arts" (tîracchânavijjâ). At present the monks of

Siam deal freely in charms and exorcisms but on important occasions

public opinion seems to have greater confidence in the skill and power

of Brahmans.]

[Footnote 236: King Śrî Sûryavaṃsa Râma relates in an

inscription of about 1365 how he set up statues of Parameśvara and

Vishṇukarma (?) and appointed Brahmans to serve them.]

[Footnote 237: Maj. Nik. 47.]

[Footnote 238: _Siam Society_, vol. IV. part ii. 1907. _Some Siamese

ghost-lore_ by A.J. Irwin.]

[Footnote 239: _Jour. Siam Soc._ 1909, p. 28. "In yonder mountain is a

demon spirit Phră Khăphŭng that is greater than every other

spirit in this realm. If any Prince ruling this realm reverences him

well with proper offerings, this realm stands firm, this realm

prospers. If the spirit be not reverenced well, if the offerings be

not right, the spirit in the mountain does not protect, does not

regard:--this realm perishes."]

[Footnote 240: The most popular life of the Buddha in Siamese is

called Pa:thó̆mma Só̆mphôthĩyan, translated by Alabaster in

_The Wheel of the Law_. But like the Lalita vistara and other Indian

lives on which it is modelled it stops short at the enlightenment.

Another well-known religious book is the Traiphûm ( = Tribhûmi), an

account of the universe according to Hindu principles, compiled in

1776 from various ancient works.

The Pali literature of Siam is not very large. Some account of it is

given by Coedès in _B.E.F.E.O._ 1915, III. pp. 39-46.]

[Footnote 241: When in Bangkok in 1907 I saw in a photographer's shop

a photograph of the procession which escorted these relics to their

destination. It was inscribed "Arrival of Buddha's tooth from Kandy."

This shows how deceptive historical evidence may be. The inscription

was the testimony of an eye-witness and yet it was entirely wrong.]

Hinduism and Buddhism, An Historical Sketch, Vol. 3 · 第 5 / 24 章