CHAPTER V

WAITING

Thursday, November fourteenth.

We're ready to go to Seward the moment the weather moderates--which

may be not for two weeks or two months. I've packed blankets and

several days' food in a great knapsack so that if we're driven to land

somewhere we'll not perish of hunger. And this trip while it may be

carried out speedily may on the other hand strand us days without

number in Seward and cost three or four times that many dollars.

The wind is still in the North, the days are wonderfully beautiful,

and the nights no less. This very night Rockwell and I skated for the

third time, Ah, but it was glorious on the lake, the moon high above

us in a cloudless sky, the snow and ice on the mountain sides

glistening and the spruces black. We skated together hand in hand like

sweethearts; going far to one end of the lake in the teeth of the wind

and returning before it like full-rigged ships. And Rockwell whose

second skate to-day this was improves every minute.

I've cut Rockwell's hair, four months' growth. He has had the

appearance of a boy of the Middle Ages with his hair cut to a line

above his eyes. Now he's truly a handsome fellow--and such a man under

the hardships of this cold place and rough life that I'm very proud of

him.

Saturday, November sixteenth.

Still it blows, yesterday and to-day, cold, clear, and blue,--and the

moon these nights stands straight above us and stays till dawn,

setting far in the north. It is really cold. Olson is quite miserable

and wonders how we can keep at our wood cutting and skating. But I

think I shall never live in such cold again as in that first winter on

Monhegan in my unfinished house when on cold days the water pails four

feet from the stove froze over between the times I used them, and my

beans at soak froze one night on the lighted stove. We love this

weather here. While the cabin is drafty I pile on fuel remorselessly,

and that's a real delight after having all my life had truly to count

the pieces of coal and wood. The ice on the pond is six inches thick,

part of it clear black that one can see the bottom through. This

morning Rockwell changed to heavy underwear. He complains always of

the heat, day and night.

The days go on about as usual varied only by an occasional weekly or

monthly chore and success or failure in my painting. This morning with

Olson's help I brought my boat up onto the land above the beach. The

boat is an extremely heavily built eighteen-foot dory with a heavy

keel; and yet the wind carried it four feet last night and, if it had

not been secured, might have blown it down into the water where the

waves would soon have wrecked it. This night I shall not read in bed;

it's quite too far away from the stove.

Sunday, November seventeenth.

We jumped from bed in a hurry this morning believing that the apparent

stillness boded a calm day and a fit one for the Seward trip. But the

sea beyond our cove was running swiftly and within two hours there was

a gale of wind and some snow. Cold it was and dark. We'd hardly put

the lamp out after breakfast, before we lighted it again for late

dinner. Still in that short daylight I painted and Rockwell skated and

painted, and we both cut a lot of wood. I've spent the evening

writing, trying an article for "The Modern School." We turned my boat

over and secured it to the ground with ropes just in time to escape

the fall of snow to-night that lies deep on the ground. The moon is up

and through the clouds there comes a general illumination like

daylight.

Monday, November eighteenth.

To-day a storm from the southeast. It blows like fury. Breakfast by

lamplight, work until dark, then dinner--in the neighborhood of three

o'clock or maybe four--more work, and a nap, for I felt exhausted.

Rockwell goes to bed and is read to, I work a while longer, then a

light supper for which Rockwell gets up again, then--the dishes washed

and R. again in bed--a call on Olson for three quarters of an hour,

leaving there at ten, to work again till some wild hour. What a

strangely arranged day! I'm determined to have a clock. But now it

will be seen that no more time must be spent this night upon this

diary. Amen.

Tuesday, November nineteenth.

A dreary, dreary, a weary day. But I've worked or somehow been

ceaselessly busy and now I'm about ready for my nightcap of reading

and bed. Four canvases stretched and primed stand to my credit and

that alone is one day's work in effort and conquered repugnance.

What a tedious work. My Christmas letters are written, nearly all of

them. And as Christmas draws near it seems more and more impossible

without home and the children. It will be a huge make-believe for one

of our family here!

[Illustration: ROCKWELL'S DREAM]

There's a big storm at sea from the look of the water and the sound of

the wind. And the rain falls drearily and on the roof it rattles. From

the tall trees the great drops fall like stones; they beat to pieces,

little by little, the paper roof, and now when the rain is hardest we

hear the drip, drip of the water on the floor. But we are

comfortable--so what of it all.

I read "Big Claus and Little Claus" to Rockwell to-night. That's a

great story and we roared over it. Rockwell doesn't like the stories

about kings and queens, he says, "They're always marrying and that

kind of stuff." Just the same Rockwell himself has his life and

marriage pretty closely planned,--the journey from the East alone, the

wife to be found at Seattle to save her carfare--and yet not put off

as far as Alaska, for there they don't look nice enough,--and then

life in Alaska to the end of his days. And I'm to be along if I'm not

dead,--as I probably shall be, he says.

I have just finished the life of Blake and am now reading Blake's

prose catalogue, etc., and a book of Indian essays of Coomeraswamy.

The intense and illuminating fervor of Blake! I have just read this:

"The human mind cannot go beyond the gift of God, the Holy Ghost. To

suppose that Art can go beyond the finest specimens of Art that are

now in the world is not knowing what Art is; it is being blind to the

gifts of the Spirit." Here in the supreme simplicity of life amid

these mountains the spirit laughs at man's concern with the form of

Art, with new expression because the old is outworn! It is man's own

poverty of vision yielding him nothing, so that to save himself he

must trick out in new garb the old, old commonplaces, or exalt to be

material for art the hitherto discarded trivialities of the mind.

Wednesday, November twentieth.

To-morrow we hope to get off--although it still storms. There's a

terrific sea running but even such a sea would trouble us less than

the chop of the north wind. The wind above all else is to be feared

here.

I painted little--it was so dark. Somehow on these short days it is

difficult to accomplish much. Certain things _have_ to be done by

daylight: the chopping of wood, carrying of water from a hundred yards

away, lamp filling, and some cooking. I made myself a lot of envelopes

to-day and second-coated the canvases of yesterday's stretching. And

now it is bedtime for to-morrow we rise early. Oh! the porcupine

returned to-day and was discovered feeding calmly near the cabin. He

showed no alarm at Rockwell's approach, and, when finally after some

hours of undisturbed nibbling and napping Rockwell carried him home by

his tail and set him down a little distance from his old cage, he ran

straight there and interned himself.

Friday, November twenty-second.

Both yesterday and to-day are to be recorded. The porcupine is dead!

And yesterday he endeared himself so to us, playing about in the house

with the utmost content. The cause of his death we cannot know--unless

it was our kindness. Rockwell with Olson's leather mittens on did

carry him about a good deal. Of course they are creatures nocturnal

and we had planned to let him have his regular hours for exercise and

feeding, Rockwell delighting in the plan that he should stay with him

in the woods at night, which I was certainly going to let him try. But

it's over,--and Pet No. 2 has gone to his happy hunting grounds.

It storms, yesterday violently with such wind and rain as seemed

incredible. The thin paper roof made the noise deafening so that I

could not sleep; and the surf beat and the forest roared; it was a

wild night. To-day is better though it pours every half hour. When,

_when_ shall we get to Seward! And here before me are displayed all

the pretty Christmas presents I have made and that Rockwell has made.

Here we sit, these dark short days, working together at the same table

just like two professional craftsmen. On these days I cannot

paint,--and Olson calls upon us more than he should. Still, we let him

sit here in silence and he is wise enough to be quite content. Now it

is late. The stove is out and I must go to bed. Two meals only

to-day,--another is due me. Oh! I made myself a beautiful die for note

paper yesterday and printed it on my envelopes to-day.

[Illustration: THE CABIN WINDOW]

Saturday, November twenty-third.

It dawned calm with rain hanging in the air. We hurried with our

breakfast in the hope that we should get off; but within an hour at

the turn of the tide the northwest wind whipped down from the

mountains and the rain fell in torrents. And now at a late hour of the

night it still rains although the wind has fallen. We felled a tree

to-day and partly cut it up. Although it was dismally dark all the

time I managed to paint a little. And I wrote much and drew in black

and white. Rockwell has been industrious as usual, drawing at my side.

He told me an amusing anecdote of little Kathleen that is worthy to go

down here. When in play she wants to change her doll's name she sends

for the pretend doctor, again herself, and he operates on the doll.

Cutting a hole in her stomach he stuffs into it a little piece of

paper on which he has written the new name. And so the name is

changed.

Tried some cottonseed oil of Olson's to-day that was too bad. A year

or two ago he was given a case of spoiled mayonnaise dressing for fox

food. Olson saved the oil which had separated from the rest of it. I

made dough for doughnuts while I heated the oil to fry ourselves that

great treat. Then arose a pinching, rancid odor that almost made me

ill but which Rockwell called delicious. However I baked the

doughnuts. Still, the oil unheated seemed not bad.

Sunday, November twenty-fourth.

Olson declares this day to be Sunday and in honor of the day he gave

me a cup of milk for junket. And in honor of the day, whatever it is,

I worked so hard that now I'm tired out. The day began with snow and

continued with it. It blustered and blew much as a day in March and

the bay looked wild. And now to-night it is clear and starlight. Will

the north wind begin to blow again to-morrow? The chances are that it

will and Seward and the sending of my mail will be as far away as

ever. I painted with some success for the snow makes the cabin

lighter. Really my picture looks well. Eight canvases are far along so

that I'm proud of them. We cut wood to-day of course; it would be

great fun if only we'd more minutes of daylight to spare. Steamer must

be due in Seward now. We've seen none for two weeks or longer.

Monday, November twenty-fifth.

It rages from the northeast! The bay is a wild expanse of breakers.

They bear into our cove and thunder on the beach. A mad day and a wild

night. And Seward is as far off as ever! It is now my hope that a

steamer will go to Seward before me. Olson finds by his diary that

none has been seen to go there for two weeks. I began two new pictures

to-day trying for the first time to paint after dark. My lamp is so

inadequate in this dark interior--it burns only a three-quarter inch

wick--that I can work only in black and white. But I've laid in the

whole picture in that way. Rockwell spends several hours a day

out-of-doors exploring the woods, searching out porcupine trails and

caves. It is weeks since I have stopped my work even for a walk. In

this "out-of-doors life" I see little of out-of-doors. It's a blessing

to me to have to saw wood every day.

[Illustration: "GO TO BED"]

I finished Coomeraswamy's "Indian Essays" to-day, an illuminating and

inspiring book. Coomeraswamy defines mysticism as a belief in the

unity of life. The creed of an artist concerns us only when we mean by

it the tendency of his spirit. (How hard it is to speak of these

intangible things and not use words loosely and without exact

meaning.) I think that whatever of the mystic is in a man is

essentially inseparable from him; it is his by the grace of God. After

all, the qualities by which all of us become known are those of which

we are ourselves least conscious. The best of me is what is quite

impulsive; and, looking at myself for a moment with a critic's eye,

the forms that occur in my art, the gestures, the spirit of the whole

of it is in fact nothing but an exact pictorial record of my

unconscious living idealism.

Tuesday, November twenty-sixth.

After a terribly stormy and cold night the day was fair with the wind

comfortably settled in the north as if he meant to stay there. Only at

night has it been calm. To-night again is so and if I had not Rockwell

on my hands to make me timid I'd go at night to Seward. Olson was a

real Santa Claus to-day. First he gave us Schmier Kase, then a good

salt salmon--two years old which he said we'd "better try"--and

to-night a lot of butter churned by him from goat's milk. It looks

like good butter and, with the added coloring matter, more palatable

than the natural white butter of the goat. We felled two trees

to-day--fairly small ones. We consume a vast amount of wood with our

all-night fire. Well--to-morrow, let us say again, we'll be off to

Seward.

Wednesday, November twenty-seventh.

To-day, if we had known how the weather would turn, we should have

started. It was lovely, cold but fair with the wind in the

south-west. It had in the morning all appearances of a heavy blow and

we failed to get in shape to take advantage of its calming as the

afternoon advanced. At any rate I have a little picture of it with the

soft haze of the day and the loose clouds. I painted besides on the

large canvas of Superman begun a few days ago. Olson lent me his

"grub-box" to use, a wooden box of small grocery size with a cover

fastened with a strap and buckle. Such a box is part of the outfit of

every man on the Yukon. My emergency grub is now in it, my letters,

Christmas presents, and all that's bound for Seward. Rockwell took

Squirlie out for an airing to-day, wrapping him with tender care in a

sweater. They went for a long way into the woods like good companions.

Then Rockwell drew a portrait of his muffled pet which is destined for

Clara's Christmas.

Thursday, November twenty-eighth.

This continual waiting is getting upon my nerves. Most of to-day I

spent tinkering with the engine. It goes now--in a water barrel. The

trouble with the best of these little motors is that the moment they

get wet they stop, and they are attached at such an exposed place, on

the stern, that they will get wet if there's much of a sea. Then

you're in a bad fix for it's impossible to make any headway rowing

with the engine--or rather the propeller--dragging. Most of the

engines are hung right on the stern and can be readily detached and

drawn into the boat. But mine fits into a sort of pocket built in the

stern and is difficult even on land to lift out. It weighs decidedly

over a hundred pounds. So I don't relish getting caught with such an

equipment. I must have mentioned, by the way, that the engine was

"thrown in" with the boat as of no value.

So there's the day gone. To-night we go to bed early and if it is calm

just before daylight in the morning we shall start at once.

[Illustration: DRIFTWOOD]

Friday, November twenty-ninth.

Last night a terrific storm from the east. A few blasts struck the

house with such force that it seemed our thin roof could not stand it.

Of course it is really quite strong enough but the noise of those

sudden squalls bearing along snow and ice from the tree tops is simply

appalling. In the morning it became milder but continued to rain and

snow and for most of the day to blow heavily from the eastward. In the

afternoon to my despair a steamer entered for Seward; she'll doubtless

leave at daylight. There goes one of my chances to get my Christmas

mail off.

I painted splendidly to-day and am in the seventh heaven over

it,--which takes away some of my gloom at never reaching Seward. A

long call from Olson to-night. He sits here patiently and silently

while I draw. It snows steadily. What will to-morrow bring?

Francis Galton, the inquirer into human faculty, would have been

charmed at Rockwell's casual mention of the colors of proper names.

They do apparently assume definite colors that seem to him appropriate

and characteristic beyond question. Clara, too, sees names as colors.

Father is blue, Mother is a darker blue. The breadth of vowel sound

apparently, judging from this and other examples he gave me, lowers

the tone of color. Kathleen is a light yellow, very light. Now for a

bite to eat, for I've had but two meals--and then to bed.

Wilderness, A Journal of Quiet Adventure in Alaska · 第 5 / 11 章