CHAPTER IV

WINTER

Endlessly, day after day, the journal goes on recording a dreary

monotony of rain and cloud. Who has ever dwelt so entirely alone that

the most living things in all the universe about are wind and rain and

snow? Where the elements dominate and control your life, where at

getting up and bedtime and many an hour of night and day between you

question helplessly, as a poor slave his master, the will of the

mighty forces of the sky? Dawn breaks, you jump from bed, stand

barefoot on the threshold of the door, look through the straight

trunked spruces at the brightening world, and read at sight God's will

for one more whole, long day of life. "Ah God! it rains again." And

sitting on the bed you wearily draw on your heavy boots, and

rainy-spirited begin the special labors of a rainy day. Or maybe, at

the sight of clouds again, you laugh at the dull-minded weather man or

curse at him good naturedly. Still you must do those rainy-weather

chores and all the other daily chores in hot wet-weather garments.

That is destiny.

Most of the time, to do ourselves real justice, we met the worst of

weather with a battle cry, worked hard,--and then made up for outdoor

dreariness and wet by heaping on the comforts of indoors,--dry, cozy

warmth, good things to eat, and lots to do.

We have reached late fall--for northern latitudes. The sky is brooding

ominously, heavy, dull, and raw. Winter seems to be closing in upon

us. We're driven to work as if in fear. Hurry, hurry! Saw the great

drums of spruce, roll them over the ground and stack them high. Calk

tight with hemp the cabin's windward eaves so that no breath of wind

can enter there and freeze the food inside upon the shelf. Set up the

far-famed air-tight stove where it will keep you warm,--warm feet in

bed and a warm back while painting. Patch up the poor, storm-battered

paper roof,--two or three holes we find and we are sure it leaks from

twenty. About the cabin pile the hemlock boughs, dense-leafed and

warm, making a green slope almost to the eaves. Now it looks cozy!

Outside and in the last is done to make us ready for the winter's

worst, and just in time! It is the evening of October twenty-second

and the feathery snow has just begun to fall. Olson comes stamping in.

"Well, well," he cries, "how's this! How does our winter suit you?" It

suits us perfectly. The house is warm, Rockwell's in bed, and I am

reading "Treasure Island" to him.

"What are you going to make of him?" asked Olson that night speaking

of Rockwell. I was at that moment pouring beans into the pot for

baking. I slowed the stream and dropped them one by one:

"'Rich-man, poor-man, beggar-man, thief,

Doctor, lawyer, merchant, chief.'

How in the world can anyone lay plans for a youngster's life?"

[Illustration: ON THE HEIGHT]

Rockwell lay in his bed dreaming, maybe, of an existence lovelier far

than anything the poor, discouraged imagination of a man could reach.

A child could make a paradise of earth. Life is so simple! Unerringly

he follows his desires making the greatest choices first, then onward

into a narrowing pathway until the true goal is reached. How can one

preach of beauty or teach another wisdom. These things are of an

infinite nature, and in every one of us in just proportion. There is

no priesthood of the truth.

We live in many worlds, Rockwell and I,--the world of the books we

read,--an always changing one, "Robinson Crusoe," "Treasure Island,"

the visionary world of William Blake, the Saga Age, "Water Babies,"

and the glorious Celtic past,--Rockwell's own world of fancy, kingdom

of beasts, the world he dreams about and draws,--and my created land

of striding heroes and poor fate-bound men--real as I have painted

them or to me nothing is,--and then all round about our common, daily,

island-world, itself more wonderful than we have half a notion of. Is

it to be believed that we are here alone, this boy and I, far north

out on an island wilderness, seagirt on a terrific coast! It's as we

pictured it and wanted it a year and more ago,--yes, dreams come true.

And now the snow falls softly. Winter, to meet our challenge, has

begun.

Short notes in the journal mark "Treasure Island's" swift passage.

Then enter "Water Babies!" "Just after Rockwell's heart and mine," I

have recorded it. But Kingsley must lose his friends,--a warning to

the snob in literature. How it did weary us and madden us, his

English-gentry pride,--unless we outright laughed. "At last it's

finished. That's an event. When Kingsley isn't showing off he's

moralizing, and between his religious cant and his English snobbery he

is, in spite of his occasional sweet sentiment, quite unendurable. So

to-night we read from 'Andersen's Fairy Tales'--forever lovely and

true."

Children have their own fine literary taste that we know quite too

little about. They love all real, authentic happenings, and they love

pure fairy tale. But to them fiction in the guise of truth is wrong,

and fairy romance, unconvincing in its details, is ridiculous. Action

they like, the deed--not thoughts about it. Doubtless the simple saga

form is best of all,--life as it happens, neither right nor wrong,

words that they can understand, things they can comprehend,

interesting facts or thrilling fancy. Such simple things delight the

child that half of "Robinson Crusoe" and three quarters of the smug

family from Switzerland are forgiven for the sweet kernel of pure

adventure that is there.

As for adventure,--that is relative. Where little happens and the

gamut of expression is narrow life is still full of joy and sorrow.

You're stirred by simple happenings in a quiet world.

The killer-whales that early in September played in the shoal water of

our cove not thirty feet from land, rolled their huge, shining bodies

into view, plunged, raced where we still could follow their gleaming,

white patch under water,--there's a thrill!

The battles that occurred that month between huge fish out in the bay,

their terrible, mysterious, black arms that beat the water with a

sound like cannon, the plunge into the depths of the poor, frantic,

wounded whale, and his return again for air; again the thunder sound

and flying foam and spray as the dread black arm is beating on the

sea; then calm. You shudder at that huge death. That was a drama for

Fox Islanders.

And later the poor magpie's death. Real tears were shed from a poor

boy's half-broken heart.

Two strangers come these days and stop with Olson. They're on the

search of that small craft that we saw driving seaward in a tempest.

[Illustration: THE DAY'S WORK]

_There_ is mystery! Was she adrift unmanned, broke from her moorings,

or was there life aboard as we had thought? In that case she'd been

stolen, and who were the men and where? Wrecked safely on some island,

drowned, or driven out to sea? No man shall ever know.

A porcupine is captured wandering near our house. We build for him a

cozy home--he doesn't like it much but still he _should_. We care for

him day after day, he twines himself, about our hearts. Then at last

one day when we'd pastured him in freedom out in the new fallen snow,

trusting his tracks to lead us to him, the goats cut in and spoiled

the trail and he was lost to us.

Olson has gone to Seward: days of waiting, days of waiting! How many

times do we travel down the cove to the point from whence Caine's Head

is seen, going in hope, returning gloomily.

The goats beset us yearning for their missing master. Billy, that

maddening beast, eats up one corner of our broom. I throw a heavy

armful of kindling wood into his face--and he just sneezes. But

Rockwell plays with the goats as if they're human, or rather, as if he

were goat. They half believe it, he has told me,--and, Rockwell, so do

I.

Sunday, November third.

To-day was gloriously bright and clear with a strong northwest wind.

The mountains are covered with snow, beautiful beyond description. I

painted in-and out-of-doors continuously all the day except when

Rockwell and I plied the saw. It is no little thing to have one's work

on a day like this out under such a blue sky, by the foaming green sea

and the fairy mountains.

Three days go by. It rains and hails and snows, and then is quiet.

Over the dead, still air comes the roar of pounding seas. Immense and

white they pile on the black cliffs of Caine's Head, the wash of a

storm at sea. Still over the heaving, glassy water we look in vain

for Olson. Dark days, and the short hours are long with waiting. How

many times we traveled down the cove to look toward Seward, how many

score of times we peered through the little panes of our west window

never to find the thing we sought for.

I've loaded my arms with firewood from the pile. I turn my head and

there in our cove before my very eyes at last is Olson! This is

November sixth,--nine days away!

"The war is over," cried Olson as he landed. By all that's holy in

life may the world have found through its mad war at least some

fragrance of the peace and freedom that we discovered growing like a

flower, wild on the borders of the wilderness....

Long into night I read the mail, count sweaters, caps, and woolen

stockings, all that the mail has brought. It is late, Rockwell is

asleep, the room is cold, it snows out-of-doors.... And now instead of

bed I'll stir the fire and begin my work.

Thursday, November seventh.

A true winter's day with the snow deep on the ground and the profound

and characteristic winter silence of the out-of-doors to be sensed

even in this ever silent place. At earliest daylight began a heavy

thunderstorm with lightning all about and a downpour of hail. It

occurred intermittently throughout the morning.... I did the washing,

using Olson's washboard and getting the clothes nearly white.

Olson is full of amusing gossip. To the curious in Seward who asked

him why I chose to be in this God-forsaken spot he replied: "You damn

fools, you don't understand an artist at all. Do you suppose

Shakespeare wrote his plays with a silly crowd of men and women

hanging around him? No, sir, an artist has to be left alone."

"Well, what does he paint?"

"That's his business. Sometimes I see he has a mountain there on a

picture, and next time I see it's been changed to a lake or something

else."

[Illustration: MEAL TIME]

One can imagine Olson with his questioners. The thing he most wants,

his ambition, one might say, is to make people sit up and take notice

of Fox Island, his homestead. It is in fact one reason why he brought

us here to live. Thanks to its amateur detective, Seward had rejoiced

for a short time in rumors of a German spy on Fox Island. I told Olson

that the authorities might still come and remove me. He flared up,

"I'd like to see them try it! We could take to the mountains with

guns, and more than one of them would never try the thing again." And

then he went on to tell me how in Idaho he had tracked for days and

weeks a notorious gang of outlaws and horse-thieves and at last run

them to earth,--one of his most thrilling and, I believe, absolutely

true stories of his adventures.

At this moment a steamer is blowing in the bay, navigating by the echo

from the mountain faces. She is near to us now but hidden by the

snowstorm.

Rockwell has begun to write the story of a long, waking dream of his.

It's a sweet idea and reads most amusingly in his own queer spelling.

Now, though it is already late, I must draw a while longer and then,

after bathing in the bread pan, sit up in bed and read a chapter of

the life of Blake.

Friday, November eighth.

It is so late that I half expect to see the dawn begin. I have been

working on a drawing of Rockwell and his father--and it looks ever so

fine.

Whew! just at this moment the wind has swept down upon our cabin and

blown the roof in as far as it would with great creaking yield,--and

then passed on sucking it out in its wake to such a spread that a

board that lay across overhead like a collar-beam has fallen with a

crash and clatter,--and Rockwell sleeps on! The wind does blow

to-night, and it doesn't stop outside the walls of the cabin either.

My lamp flutters annoyingly. But ah! the room is comfortable and warm.

This morning, it being at first wondrously fair, Rockwell and I set

out for a boat ride. But what with the fussing of installing our motor

and the launching of our cumbersome boat the wind was given time to

rise and spoil the day for us. But we went out into the bay and played

in the waves to see what the north wind could do. The chop was

devilish, short and deep; the boat bridged from one crest to another

with, it seemed, a clear tunnel underneath,--and then running up onto

a wave mountain she would jump off its dizzy peak landing with a

splash in the valley beyond and dousing us well with water. In a

calmer spot I stopped the engine and sketched our island; after which

we rowed home. The rest of the day we worked on the motor--first to

find out why she wouldn't run, then, having found and fixed that, to

put other parts in still better order, and then, by far the longest

time and still to continue to-morrow, to mend what in the course of

our fixing we had broken.

Rockwell's in bed, asleep, dreaming of the little, wild nightingale

that sang of freedom to that poor, unhappy Chinese Emperor; while far

from here in streets and towns the tin nightingale of law-made liberty

charms the world. And it's now my reading time, my time for bread and

jam and a soft-cushioned back.

The days run by, true winter days, snow, cold, and wind,--what wind!

It is terrifying when from our mountain tops those fierce blasts sweep

upon us roaring as they come; flying twigs and ice beat on the roof,

the boards creak and groan under the wind's weight, the lamp flutters,

moss is driven in and falls upon my work-table, the canvas over our

bed flaps,--and then in a moment the wind is gone and the world is

still again save for the distant wash of the waves and the far off

forest roar.

[Illustration: DAY'S END]

Olson is full of treats. His latest was in pleasant violation of the

law. From a bottle of pale liquid half filled with raisins he poured

me a drink, mixing it with an equal amount of ginger ale and a dash of

sugar. It tasted pretty good, quite thrilling in fact.

"What is it?" I asked.

"Pure alcohol," he said, smacking his lips.

Olson then launched forth on confidential advice, "from one trapper to

another," on how to trap men,--in my case rich patrons. He has my need

of them quite upon his mind.

Olson's eggs, by the way, taste good enough. (They gave him in Seward

twenty-four dozen bad eggs to bring out for the foxes.) We have eaten

a dozen. To-day I cracked seventeen to find six for dinner. Onion

omelette is the fashion to cook them in. Rockwell pronounces them

delicious and--well--so do I.

Hard, hard at work, little play, not too much sleep. The wind blows

ceaselessly. Rockwell is forever good,--industrious, kind, and happy.

He reads now quite freely from any book. Drawing has become a natural

and regular occupation for him, almost a recreation--for he can draw

in both a serious and a humorous vein. At this moment he's waiting in

bed for some music and another Andersen fairy tale.

* * * * *

Another day has gone and a new morning is hours on its way. Out in the

moonlit night strained, tired eyes open wide and are made clear again,

cramped knees must dance in the crisp air, the curved spine bends

backward as the upstretched arms describe that superb embracing

gesture of the good-night yawn. November the thirteenth! how time

sweeps by. And I look over the black water that we soon must cross

again to Seward. The wind bursts around the cabin corner. I shiver

and--go to bed.

Wilderness, A Journal of Quiet Adventure in Alaska · 第 4 / 11 章