Barbadoes, Feb. 27.
We have made our projected marooning excursion to Hackleton’s Cliff, and
the windward coast of the island, as planned by our friends at the
“social rock,” and often, in the course of it, did my thoughts wander to
another friend, wishing yet one addition to the party!
On the 23d inst. we went off before six in the morning to Bridge-town,
where, as before, we found slaves, horses, and every necessary for the
journey, provided by the friendly Mr. Hinde, and in readiness for our
departure. It was arranged, that we should avail ourselves of the early
part of the day, by proceeding to Col. Williams’s before breakfast. The
morning was dull; the sky lowered, and it threatened rain; but none
fell; still, from the sun being obscured, the air was pleasantly cool.
We rode slowly as far as Dr. Hinde’s, where we were joined by the
Doctor, and Mr. Abel Hinde, and Mr. Jordan. Upon our arrival at Col.
Williams’s, we found the breakfast board most bounteously spread, and
the Colonel prepared to take an active part in the expedition. After
breakfasting with good appetite, and being well rested and refreshed, we
left the “social rock,” to pursue our route, in the true marooning
spirit; making a home whenever we might require it, or wheresoever we
could find it. The first object which arrested our attention was a very
extensive subterraneous cavern, called “Harrison’s Cave.” This is within
about half a mile of the Colonel’s house, and is one of the greatest
natural curiosities of the island. Its hidden mouth opens among the
rocks of a deep narrow gully, between two lofty hills. There we forsook
the light of day, and descended into the dark regions of the earth, in
order to advance to the utmost extent of the gloomy depths before us.
Our way was intricate and obscure. Taking with us three negroes, with
lights, we descended by narrow windings, or spacious openings, by broad
walks, or narrow crooked paths, over loose stones, or rocky steeps. At
one moment we found ourselves under a fine arch or dome, hung with
clusters of petrifactions; at another we were in a narrow aisle, whose
walls, and impending vault, faintly glittered with multiform
incrustations. By the senses of feeling and hearing, more than by the
sight, we judged of the varying uncertainty of our situation, and
advanced with cautious step—now confined, now in more open space, until
we reached a spot where we came to a gentle rivulet, gliding along its
subterraneous bed in a pure and crystal stream. A few soft rays,
gleaming from above, silvered over the surface, and exhibited all the
purity of this limpid current: while the sky, which appeared at a
circular opening, cut through the soil and the solid rock, to the depth
of thirty or forty fathoms, resembled the pale moon, or the sun divested
of his effulgent beams.
Together with our artificial lights, the mild rays from this opening,
penetrating to the very bottom of the cave, displayed the hanging tubes
of stalactites, and the various surrounding petrifactions, in a manner
highly interesting and picturesque.
“Here incrustations strike the eyes:
There spangled domes, with lustre bright,
Beam down an artificial light;
Whence pensile hang, in gothic show,
Descending to the sands below,
Fantastic forms——.”
After drinking of the pellucid stream, and examining the pendent vaults,
the arches, and recesses around, we proceeded onwards to a considerable
distance beyond the rivulet, until the broken path became more and more
intricate, and the gloomy cavern seemed to close upon us in endless and
impenetrable obscurity. The feeble taper now scarcely illumined the spot
whereon we stood, while all beyond us was buried in perfect darkness.
The path grew still more uncertain and irregular: here we bent our
persons almost double to pass under a rugged arch; there we descended a
sudden steep; then, again, we had to scramble up a craggy and projecting
mass: presently we turned the sharp corner of a rock, into a narrow
passage, between huge walls of stone; next we opened into a more
spacious vault: soon our way was again confined, or our heads struck the
hanging petrifactions above. At one moment we trod on the firm rock, at
another our steppings were upon loose stones, and, perhaps, the
following instant we found our feet in water, or upon damp earth; now we
seemed to have reached the utmost depth of the cave; then we stepped
suddenly into a wide space: at length we reached the remotest extent
which had been explored; but unlimited windings seemed yet to lead on,
in terrific gloom, to the very centre of the earth.
Having only two or three open tapers, we did not feel it prudent to
venture farther into unexplored passages; more particularly as the road
we had passed, had been so intricate and perplexing that, in case of any
accident occurring to extinguish our light, we might not have been able
to trace our way back, to the mouth of the cave. Hence we declined
proceeding any deeper into this abode of darkness and silence, and
turned about to retrace our steps to a brighter scene. Feeling better
assured respecting our path, we now contemplated more leisurely the
stupendous walls of rock, the varied incrustations, the ponderous masses
of stalactites, the multitudes of madripores, and the other calcareous
concretions, formed by nature from the limpid droppings which were seen
on all sides, also above and below, and hanging round about our heads in
an endless variety of fantastic figures.
The air, in most parts of the cave, was confined and warm, but,
occasionally, we felt it damp and chilly. On our way back, at a narrow
pass, where we had been obliged to bend low the knee in order to creep
under the arch of a rock, we perceived it rush in strong current: here
the whole of our lights were suddenly extinguished, and we were shut in
the dark and hollow bowels of the earth, unable to explore our path to
the mouth of the cavern. Unhappily, too, we were confined in a damp
current of air, and compelled to stand shivering with cold, whilst Col.
Williams and the negroes, who had been often in the cave, felt their
road out, at great hazard, to procure new lights. We remained buried in
the silent seclusion of this subterraneous abode for nearly an hour; and
when the distant sound of our conductor’s feet returned upon our ears,
and the soft glimmerings of light again stole into the profound depths
of the cave, the effect was uncommonly striking. Watching carefully as
the negroes approached, we saw the rays of light gleam upon their dark
skins, gilding them as it were with fire. Presently we lost them in
obscurity, then again, the imperfect rays darted towards us, and at one
moment we saw indistinctly the blacks descend from a rock, while at
another we perceived them suddenly rise as from the deep. Again the
light disappeared, and we only heard, their distant hollow-sounding
steps: then they escaped from a narrow passage or confined recess, and
were seen stepping forth under an open and spacious arch, where the
heavy rocks, the vaulted dome, the petrified columns, the massy tubes,
and impending clusters of glittering concretions, together with the
solemn echo, the fiery blackness of the negroes, and the spreading rays
of artificial light, partially absorbed, or feebly reflected, produced
an effect, which was at once picturesque, and awful.
In such a situation, buried in darkness and sepulchral silence, but
little assistance of the imagination was required to create pictures of
horror, or to figure the mighty abode of terrors and punishments. When
our eyes first caught these Africans, at a distant part of the cavern,
it scarcely needed the aid of fancy to convert them into demons of still
lower regions, approaching us with the tormenting flames of their dread
parent! Such an association did actually occupy our minds, as, in
stillness, we watched the advance of these seeming spirits of darkness;
and by the time these sable beings had reached us, we had so powerfully
traced the images of the black spirits below, that it was difficult to
persuade ourselves they were only black bodies, bringing us lights from
above.
But the voice of the friendly Colonel, who accompanied them, soon roused
us from our reverie, and reminded us that, however dismal our abode, it
was not _that bourn from whence no traveller returns_! We now hastened
to change our gloomy dwelling for brighter regions, but were obliged to
tread our way in cautious steps towards the exit of the cave; for the
path was intricate and perilous. As we came near to the opening we
extinguished the artificial lights, in order to enjoy the appearance of
the soft rays which stole in at the entrance of the cave, richly gilding
the rocks and petrifactions, and gradually, though irregularly, growing
stronger until we again met the broad glare of day.
On our first escaping from the cave, the powerful light of the sun,
falling through the widely dilated pupils of our eyes, produced a
considerable degree of pain; we therefore remained a short time in the
gully before we again mounted our horses, to proceed to a point called
Sugar-hill, from whence we obtained an extensive and very beautiful view
of the parishes of Scotland, and the romantic parts of the island which
we had before visited.
Near Sugar-hill we called at a cottage to give directions for some
oranges to be sent down to the “Bay-house,” a place we were to visit _en
route_. Here we met with two fair cottagers, who, though less ruddy,
were not less animated than the lovely and blooming peasants of Old
England: they were the healthy-looking daughters of the old dame of the
house, and notwithstanding the want of rosy tint, had pretty English
faces.
After enjoying the fine views from Sugar-hill, and witnessing the smiles
of the neighbouring cottagers, we were conducted to the home of a Mr.
Haynes, where we met with a warm Barbadoes greeting, and were welcomed
with frankness and a most cordial hospitality. We rested only a few
minutes, when Mr. Haynes and his son joined our party, and accompanied
us to an adjoining estate called “Joe’s River,” a most delightful spot,
and quite the elysium of the island. Until lately it has been in the
possession of the Rev. Mr. H., a man of much genius and learning, whose
loss is deeply regretted by all, but more particularly by the literati
of the colony. He was a scientific botanist, and as much respected for
his extensive information, as for his friendly and social disposition.
The house is finely situated on elevated ground near the sea, surrounded
with extensive plantations of the choicest trees and tropical fruits.
The garden and orchard had long been the great objects of their owner’s
care. It was his wish to procure an useful and ornamental assemblage of
all the rare fruits and plants of the tropical regions: and, in this
intention, he had already obtained a numerous and valuable collection,
which, through his industry and perseverance, was almost daily
increasing. His private hours were passed in literary pursuits. Much of
his time was devoted to his favorite study of Natural History, and to
realizing the improvements suggested by his contemplations. In society
he was convivial: to his slaves he was parental and humane; and,
possessing great urbanity, he was kind and obliging to all.
This once happy dwelling, which was graced by hospitality and
benevolence, enriched by industry, and dignified by science: this
delightful home, so lately the pride and ornament of the island, is now
left to fall into ruin and decay. The broken walls, the hidden paths,
the shattered doors and windows, the wild, neglected trees, the
obtrusive weeds, and half-covered walks all bespeak, in doleful decline,
its former beauty; and truly may it be said that Joe’s river mourns in
fast-withering sorrow, the afflicting loss of its distinguished
proprietor.
We now proceeded to the sea-side, and our next place of call was a
cottage termed the Bay-house, a neat little building erected by Mr.
Haynes, under a rock upon the open beach, to serve as a home of rest and
refreshment for such of his friends, and, in great truth may we say, his
friends’ friends, who may chance to visit the windward coast. We found
it the rendezvous of entertainment and repose. Intimation had been
conveyed to the generous owner that it might perhaps be in our way to
make a short visit at his villa, and he had availed himself of the
information to provide a rich and bountiful repast. All the good things
of the island seemed to have been collected. The whole neighbourhood had
been ransacked for our accommodation. The best productions, from every
quarter, were directed hither to supply the hospitable board. Cook,
butler, fishermen, servants, and slaves were assembled to give their
assistance. The net was thrown into the sea immediately before the door,
and the fishes taken, were presently smoking upon the table; fruits,
wines, meat, poultry, and vegetables were brought in profusion, and made
only a part of the feast of this little cottage, built by generous
hospitality, and dedicated to friendship and social harmony. A supply of
provisions was likewise procured for the refreshment of our slaves and
horses, and these were regaled with no less liberality than their
masters—the friendly courtesies of the “Bay-house” being extended
equally to all.
Punch and mandram were served to us before dinner, the one to quench our
thirst, the other to provoke the appetite; and soon afterwards were set
before us a variety of dishes, consisting of boiled, stewed, and broiled
fish, a cold roasted lamb, a cold turkey, fowls, tongues, cray-fish, and
a multitude of other good things. After we had dined very abundantly the
table was covered with punch, many excellent wines, and several species
of fruits. Among the latter was a large pine, the first of which we had
partaken in the island. I do not know that the flavour was superior to
that of some of the pines I have tasted from the hot-houses of England,
but it was certainly very delicious.
Having plenteously refreshed ourselves, and the slaves and horses being
well fed and rested, we called the negroes from their dessert of rolling
and basking in the sun, and proceeded upon our journey. To our great
surprise, at the very moment the horses appeared at the door for our
departure, a large dish of sprats, smoking from the gridiron, and an
immense bowl of milk-punch, were set before us. This was quite a West
Indian addition to the repast. Having eaten very heartily, and indulged
in copious libations, we had already done even too much in the way of
feasting, but, to my great astonishment, some of the party partook with
a renewal of appetite which was rather indicative of sitting down to
dinner, than of rising from table! At two o’clock we had commenced with
punch; after which came the mandram; at three was served the dinner:
busy eating and drinking continued until five; and then appeared the
sprats, and bowl of milk-punch: thus did nearly four hours pass in high
banqueting and conviviality at this social cottage. At length, due
honors having been done to the punch and sprats, we again put ourselves
_en route_. We rode along the sands to a spot called Beersheba, which is
so enclosed among the rocks as to form a natural bathing-place. From
thence we proceeded to a large mass of rocks, lying in the water, near
the edge of the sea, where we had the expectation of viewing a curious
natural production called the animal flower. But here we were
disappointed; for the tide being in, the sea running high, and the wind
strong, we were unable to reach the spot where this phænomenon of nature
is usually found.
Although we lost the opportunity of seeing it, I cannot refrain from
giving you the account of this uncommon _flower_, and its
dwelling-place, as communicated to us by our brother Maroons.—Within a
deep cave, formed in the rock, is a spacious natural basin of water,
which is about eleven feet above low-water mark. It is collected from
the sea beating into the cave in rough weather; and hence, that which
lodges in this basin is entirely salt water, except a very small
admixture from rain, which distils in drops, through the small openings
of the rock. In the middle of the basin is a large stone, or piece of
detached rock, which is usually covered with water. About this stone,
and adhering to its sides, as if growing therefrom, are seen numbers of
apparently beautiful flowers, finely variegated in vivid colours, and of
radiated form, somewhat resembling the petals of the garden marigold.
Some are of a pale yellow, or a light straw colour, tinged with green;
others of a greyish purple, intermixed with black spots.
To gather any of these seeming flowers is a task of difficulty, for when
the hand approaches them, the petals instantly contract, and become
invisible. If left undisturbed they re-appear, in the course of a few
minutes, gradually expanding into their former bloom; but again retire,
with surprising quickness, on the approach of the hand, a cane, or any
other body that may be directed towards them.
This circumstance, as you will expect, led to early investigation
regarding the nature of this singular flower, when, instead of a fine
blowing vegetable, it was discovered to be an animal that was decorated
with all this gaiety of colouring; and hence the name “animal flower.”
On examination the body is found to be of a blackish hue, less than an
inch in length, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness. It adheres
by one end to the rock, and from the other extremity, which projects
outwards, are thrown off a number of fine membranous filaments, in a
radiated and circular form: and from the point or head, at the centre of
this circle, project four long slender fibrils, not unlike the legs of
the spider. Thus, while the body appears as the calyx, and the expanded
filaments as the petals, these fibrils serving as the stamina, complete
the resemblance of a regular and beautiful flower.
It has been suggested, that as this animal is almost wholly deprived of
locomotive power, the fine colours, given to the membranous filaments,
serve as a provision of nature, to allure and bring within its reach the
smaller insects, upon which it feeds; and from the quick spontaneous
motion of the fine central threads, from side to side, or round the
whole border of the radiated circle, these may be designed to act as
forceps, for conveying the food to the mouth, the extended filaments
serving as _antennæ_, or feelers, to discover the prey, and from their
contractile power enclosing it, when seized, as in a purse, or sacculus,
until it is devoured. With much disappointment at not being able to see
this natural curiosity of the island, we left the coast, in order to
ascend the mountainous summit, called Hackleton’s cliff; the only spot
which vies with Hilloughby hill in being the loftiest point of
Barbadoes. The path was rugged, and singularly precipitous. To walk up
it was a degree of fatigue which, it was said, Europeans ought not to
encounter; and to ride was not free from danger, besides being a cruel
labour to the horses. But as it was contended that they would better
support the toil than ourselves, we were induced to continue upon our
saddles, although, indeed, with much difficulty, from the rapidity of
the ascent. By stopping frequently to let the poor animals recover their
breath, we did, at length, reach the summit; but never before did I sit
upon a horse to climb so steep a mountain. In the Alps of Switzerland,
and of Savoy, it is not unusual to ride small horses, called Mountain
Ponies, over the lesser hills; but previous to ascending the more
difficult acclivities these are always changed for mules; with which I
have often ventured up ascents even more nearly perpendicular than
Hackleton’s Cliff: but the mule is a more quiet, a more enduring, and
more patient animal: he is not irascible and impetuous like the horse,
and moreover, in such situations, he is so accustomed to climbing, that
he appears sensible of all the dangers around him, and is careful in
every movement, to consult the safety of himself and his rider. He looks
with caution at each stepping, and he ascertains that his foot will be
secure, before he ventures to bear upon it the weight of his body.
In the Alps a mule will carry you up mountains which are so steep as to
appear from the valley quite perpendicular, proceeding by a narrow path,
in which he cannot possibly turn himself round, and passing close by the
edge of the most terrific precipices, ascending only by means of
irregular holes made among the roots of trees, or steppings roughly
broken in the rock; yet have you only to give him the bridle and sit
still, holding by the mane to keep yourself from slipping back, and you
are in the utmost safety.
But I must return from the Alps, and tell you that in consequence of our
feasting delay at the Bay-house, and the time required to go up the
cliff, we found the evening stealing upon us before we came to the top.
The sun had already sunk too low, to gild the landscape with its rays,
or to enliven the view of the ocean, with the brightness which shone
upon our visit to Hilloughby hill; but, from what I have already said of
that, your imagination will readily suggest to you the beauties of the
scenery, and the extent of the prospect from Hackleton’s Cliff. From
viewing the delightful variety around, at the decline of day, the effect
was new and pleasing. A soft and placid picture succeeded to the strong
and vivid colours of noon: the landscape, though less bright, was not,
perhaps, less interesting; and, as we had visited Mount Hilloughby in a
full glow of light, we did not lament that we saw Hackleton’s Cliff
under the retiring beams of evening.
Unexpectedly we found the top of this elevated spot to be a
wide-extended surface, covered with herbage, and so gradually declining
on the opposite side, that on turning our faces from the steep precipice
of the east, we appeared to be upon a broad plain, instead of a rude
summit, which formed nearly the highest point of land in the island. On
the cliff we visited the estate of Mr. Stewart, at which is a pleasant
house, delightfully situated, near the most lofty part of this high
land, bearing no appearance of being so raised, or within so short a
distance of the stupendous precipice which is near it.
Ginger is the produce of the plantation. We saw great quantities of this
root spread before the house, upon a large square neatly paved, for the
purpose of drying it, preparatory to sending it to market.
From Mr. Stewart’s we proceeded to the Colleton estate, where we
purposed taking up our quarters for the night. On our way I happened to
learn that the gentleman of the house was not apprized of our intended
visit; and on discovering this, it seemed to me that it would be only a
necessary civility to acquaint him with it; I therefore proposed that we
should despatch an _avant courier_ to announce our approach, lest, from
descrying so large a party, unexpectedly, the family might believe us to
be indeed a horde of Maroons; or, still worse, might mistake us for a
foraging party, coming to levy contributions upon the estate; but I was
desired to suspend my anxiety, and be assured that we should not fail to
meet with good accommodations, and a sincere welcome, by only announcing
ourselves “_in propriis personis_;” and this information proved to be
perfectly correct, for Mr. Hollingsworth greeted us cordially, and
entertained us with all the genuine hospitality of the island. Eight
visitors, eight slaves, and eight horses, thus dropping in without
notice, and at night, were received with such unaffected kindness as to
assure us that thrice the number would have been joyfully hailed. No
cold, or forbidding ceremony; no seeming hurry or disorder; no
derangement of the household was manifested. We were all immediately _at
home_; no surprise or inconvenience was evinced; not an individual was
incommoded; the duties of the family were continued; nor was there the
slightest mark of interruption in any department of this hospitable
dwelling. The usual order was maintained, and it appeared as if we were
a part of the family. The _mauvaise honte_, the confusion and
embarrassment but too common, upon similar occasions, in England, were
utterly unknown. The brimming punch-bowl was set before us, and pleasant
lively conversation prevailed: soon the supper called us to further
feasting, which continued until the hour of repose.
We retired to rest, according to the custom of the country, at an early
hour. Drs. Master, Cleghorn, and myself were accommodated in one
spacious room. It was the first night we slept on shore, and you will
judge of the temperature of these regions, when I tell you that, in this
cool part of the most Windward Island, and in the month of February, we
set open the windows of the room, and threw aside all the bedding and
clothes, preserving to each person only a hard mattress, and a single
sheet. With this arrangement we passed the night in sound repose, and
rose at six in the morning, well prepared for another marooning day.
We rode before breakfast to see the Barbadoes or Codrington College. On
our way we passed an estate called “Society,” and on approaching the
college from the high land of that quarter we obtained a fine view of
the building, with the plain on which it stands, and the wide expanse of
the sea, spread before it. Descending from the hill we met with the
finest avenue of mountain-cabbage trees that we had seen in the island.
The college was founded and richly endowed by Colonel Codrington, with
the generous and very laudable design of establishing a great and useful
seminary for the education of the youth of Barbadoes; the liberal
founder appropriating the revenue of two large estates to the
institution, in the desire of affording an opportunity to the creole
generations of the island, of acquiring learning, and fitting themselves
for the important duties of society, and of their individual stations,
without incurring the expense of an European education. But the
benevolent intentions of the Colonel have not been duly regarded. The
profits intended for this best of purposes have been squandered away,
and the funds disgracefully neglected or abused. The superb edifice,
which was planned, has not been finished, and even the part that was
erected, has, from shameful neglect, been brought into early decay. Only
one side of the intended quadrangle has yet been built, and that, to the
disgrace of those concerned, has long been left to fall into ruin.
The present manager, highly to his honor, has done much toward
recovering the estates, and directing the funds, arising therefrom, into
their proper channel. By his care a very considerable sum has been
recently accumulated, and the part of the building which has been
erected, is now undergoing a repair, in the hope of saving it from utter
and premature destruction.
The walls are built of stone, and are of uncommon strength. They
withstood the dreadful hurricane of 1780, and appear to be still capable
of a complete restoration, but it must be at great labour, and a
prodigious expense.
As we were viewing the large hall, and the chapel, we received a message
from the master, the Rev. Mr. Thomas, requesting us to take breakfast
with him: but our plan for the day, and our engagements with Mr.
Hollingsworth, did not allow us to accept the invitation. We had,
however, an opportunity of thanking him, by making him a visit in the
house built for the principal of the college, which we were sorry to
observe, like the other parts of the structure, had been left unheeded,
and was falling into comparatively youthful decay. Mr. Thomas showed us
a model in wood, according to the original design; but if the building
had been completed upon this plan, Barbadoes might have boasted a
college, vying in grandeur, and elegance of structure, with the greatest
ornaments of the celebrated universities of the mother-country. The
model, like the building, feeling the destructive effect of the climate,
and of sad neglect, was fast crumbling into a state of decay.
Twelve boys, only, are yet admitted on the foundation, and these,
instead of occupying any part of the college building, are accommodated
in the house of the master, the parlour being converted into a kind of a
school-room.
We returned to Mr. Hollingsworth’s by a different road, from that we had
taken in going, ascending some high land near the college, called “Coach
Hill.” This ride afforded us an opportunity of seeing a numerous gang of
negroes grouped in the middle of a field, taking their breakfast, during
the temporary suspension allowed them from labour. They were seated upon
the bare earth, and exposed to the full scorching of the sun.
On our arrival we found a handsome breakfast prepared for us, and neatly
served in a large cool room, with all the taste and fashion of the West
Indies. While partaking of it I several times detected my thoughts
wandering to the poor blacks in the field, contemplating the simplicity
of their fare, and the humble natural board on which it was spread.
The Colleton estate is one of the largest in the island. It is, at
present, the property of a Mrs. Colleton, who resides in London. The
direction and sole management of it are left to Mr. Hollingsworth; and
the owner is fortunate in giving her confidence to a person of high
honor and integrity, who does every justice to the estate, and the
proprietor. At this plantation we witnessed the mode of claying, or (as
they commonly term it) _improving_ sugar. This is a very simple process
by which the sugar is much whitened, and increased in value. A coating
of clay, softened nearly to a liquid state with water, is spread over
the surface of the sugar, as it stands in the deep earthen pots into
which it is received from the boiler, and the fluid parts gradually
draining away, the clay becomes hardened into a dry cake at the top;
while the water passes through the whole of the sugar, and carries with
it a considerable portion of the molasses, passing off by an opening at
the bottom of the pot, leaving the sugar greatly whitened, and improved.
The clay having become hard and contracted, is easily removed from the
surface. We saw it lifted from several of the pots; and the difference
between the sugar in these and in the vessels which had not been
subjected to the same process was very striking. After being thus
treated the sugar sells at a price nearly one third higher, than in its
raw state: other advantages are likewise said to derive to the planter
from this partial mode of refining the produce of his canes. Soon after
breakfast we resumed our _marooning_ wanderings, taking our departure
from the Colleton estate impressed with a strong sense of the kind
reception, and the very warm hospitality it had afforded us.
After leaving Mr. Hollingsworth’s, “Clarke’s Court,” and “Kendall”
estates, were the two earliest plantations which arrested our attention.
The latter is under the direction of a very singular and eccentric
character, whose great ambition is to act differently from other men;
and who finds a secret pleasure in deviating from established rules. His
mill is oddly trimmed, the sails strangely cut, and all the works, by
some deviation or other, made peculiar. Among a multitude of other
singularities he has planted a patch of pigeon peas in the neighbourhood
of a field of canes, in order to allure the borers from the sugar,—a
piece of policy very like setting a dish of tough beef before an
alderman to seduce his appetite from a haunch of venison!
From Kendall’s we rode to “Drax-Hall,” the largest plantation of the
island, and the property of the Grosvenor family. The house is a
spacious and venerable edifice, quite proportionate to the size of the
estate, which we observed, had two mills, and a double set of works for
the preparation of the sugar. This was also the case at the large
estates of Colleton and Kendall.
No interruption,—no chasm occurs in the hospitality of Barbadoes! It is
universal, and literally, as justly, entitles it to be ranked among the
“friendly isles.” In all the liberality of the country Mr. Chatterton of
Drax-Hall, invited us to pass the day at the good old mansion, kindly
proffering us every friendly accommodation. But it was not consistent
with our plan to take up our quarters at so early an hour; we were
therefore compelled to violate our inclinations, which would have
detained us throughout the day at the Hall. After having the refreshment
of some wine and water, we pursued our ride, and passing by way of a
wood, called after the name of the plantation “Drax-Hall wood,” we
proceeded to the estate of “Spendlove,” which is under the care, and
very excellent management of Mr. John Waith, a gentleman in no degree
less hospitable than any we had seen in the island, and although very
active, no less fat and good-humoured than some of our well-fed yeomen
who feast upon the best things of England.
Spendlove was our place of dinner. Whilst this was preparing, we begged
permission to see the negro-yard, and to extend our visit into some of
the huts, being desirous to inspect the habitations, and observe the
mode of life of the slaves. It was remarked to us that the negroes were
tenacious of their home, and disliked to have their huts exposed to the
prying eye of strangers. We accordingly treasured the information,
promising not to be too minute, but to regulate our curiosity with all
becoming decorum, paying due regard to the feelings and prejudices of
the sable inhabitants: and I should have been truly mortified not to
have had this opportunity of telling you, from the testimony both of my
eyes and ears, the very comfortable, and, I might say, happy state in
which we found the slaves of Spendlove.
In your future good wishes for the comfort of the poor Africans forget
not to pray that all masters may possess hearts as kind, and humane, as
that which beats in the bosom of “Jack Waith,” this being the title by
which that gentleman is best known in the island. The friendly
indulgence of the master is amply repaid by the attachment of his
slaves; and the history of Mr. Waith and his gang, may stand in
everlasting reproach to the self-arrogating opinion which maintains that
negroes know not the divine sentiment of gratitude, but are most
treacherous toward the master who treats them best. Were this the fact,
as is not unfrequently asserted, it would offer itself in direct
opposition to a great law of human nature, and would place the _blacks_
very far indeed below the _whites_; but, however much individual
instances might seem to countenance the opinion, these, perhaps, do not
occur more frequently among Africans, than among Europeans, and surely
cannot be considered to arise more from any original defect in them,
than we should be willing to admit that they do in ourselves. Such
instances are only the result of depravity in either, and proceed from a
_perversion_, not from a genuine _principle_ of nature; and hence cannot
in the one, more than in the other, serve to establish any general
maxim.
By kind attentions, and occasional indulgences to his slaves, Mr. Waith
had so meliorated their condition, so softened to them the hardships of
slavery, and so improved their comforts, as to attach them to him, by
the secure ties of affection and gratitude. The loud clang of the whip
was seldom heard among them, and the smartings of its painful lash were
scarcely dreaded; for a better principle than fear impelled them to
their duty. Their friendship for their master made his interests their
own; and their gratitude rendered his safety the object of their
solicitude, and even of their lives. Of this he had, in two great
instances, known the most unequivocal proof; one when the negroes of the
estates had formed a conspiracy to rise upon their masters; the other
upon an alarm being given that the island was attacked by the French! On
both these occasions the slaves of Spendlove voluntarily offered to lay
down their lives in defence of Mr. Waith and his house.
At the negro-yards it is common for the slaves to plant fruits and
vegetables, and to raise stock. Some of them keep a pig, some a goat,
some Guinea fowls, ducks, chickens, pigeons, or the like. At one of the
huts of Spendlove, we saw a pig, a goat, a young kid, some pigeons, and
some chickens, all the property of an individual slave. This is mere
favor, but it gratifies and amuses the negroes, and becomes, in various
ways, highly useful. The little garden, and their stock, not only afford
them employment and recreation for their leisure moments, but create a
degree of interest in the spot, and excite feelings of kindness toward
the master, who both grants and protects the indulgence. The negro-yard,
viewed from a short distance, forms an object of highly interesting and
picturesque scenery: it comprises all the little huts, intermixed with,
and more or less concealed by the variety of shrubs and fruit-trees,
which kindly lend their shade; likewise the many small patches of
garden-ground around them, and the different species of stock, some
appearing in pens, some tied by the leg, or the neck, and some running
at large: if it be evening, you have also the crowd of negroes, male and
female, as they chance to be at rest, or moving in busy occupation, some
passing from hut to hut, some dancing to their favorite music, some
sitting at the door with the pipe in their mouths, and others smoking
their loved sagar under the broad leaf of the plantain. The picture is
also further enlivened by the groups of black children; some running and
skipping about, some seated, playing before the doors, in Nature’s ebon
dress, and some, unable to walk, attempting little excursions upon their
hands and feet. Perhaps within so small a space, few scenes could offer
so much to interest, or to aid the pencil of a painter.
They are at liberty to take the whole of their own private stock to
market, and to procure whatever additional comforts they prefer with the
money it produces. Strange as it may appear, the markets of the island
depend almost wholly upon this mode of supply. They are all held weekly,
and upon the Sunday; that being the day when the negroes are free from
labour, and have leisure to attend.
Mr. Waith has learned the happy art of governing his slaves with
kindness, and he finds it a better steward than the whip. With great
goodness of heart he indulges his own humane feelings, and finds it
better policy than using stripes. He is a man of social manners, and
would certainly deceive Lavater himself, if he possessed not all the
generosity and benevolence for which he has obtained such universal
credit; for all this is plainly written upon his brow. He is of a ruddy
complexion, and with an uncommon degree of fatness, is very active, and
appears to have all the strong health of an European. Never was
entertainment more bountiful, or given with greater liberality, or a
more cordial welcome, than at the plantation of Spendlove. Punch and
mandram preceded the dinner; at table was an extensive variety of good
things; and after the cloth was removed, the board was spread with
fruits of various kinds, together with claret, port, and madeira wines,
and goava-punch.
The round of feasting having continued for several hours, it was
followed, like our dinner at the Bay-house, by new provocatives; and the
appetite, having already consumed more than it required, was invited to
take more than it ought, by the unexpected appearance of smoking sprats,
hot lobsters, and a large bowl of milk-punch.
Mr. Waith’s father and brother came from their different plantations to
meet us at Spendlove, and were of the party at dinner. The old gentleman
is an uncommonly handsome man, sixty years of age, with all the health
and spirits of a person of forty. He is not so fat as his son, but _très
enbonpoint_. He is jocose and lively, a facetious companion, highly
convivial, and, in the full spirit of the West Indies, a perfect _bon
vivant_. He intreated us, with much kindness and urgent solicitation, to
make a visit to his estate before we leave Barbadoes, apologizing in his
own mirthful way, for not having it in his power to offer us more than a
“plain farmer’s dinner,—_a pig, a duck, and a turkey cock_.”
In order to reach Bridge-town in time to go on board to sleep, we left
Spendlove earlier than our inclinations would have dictated. On our way
we called at the house of Mr. Ellcock, brother to an eminent physician
of that name, whom we had met at Dr. Hinde’s. The road leading to the
mansion was bordered by the stately mountain-cabbage trees, which are so
peculiarly calculated to form a grand and imposing approach to a
gentleman’s dwelling. These were the finest which had yet occurred to
our observation, not excepting those we had seen at the college. Mr.
Ellcock’s is the most modern, and most European-looking abode we met
with in the course of our tour. The house and little flower-garden
before it, resemble those of England. Near to the door is a cool avenue
forming an agreeable promenade, deeply shaded with the foliage of a very
handsome tree called the “Evergreen.”
We walked into the small garden before the house, which is laid out _à
l’Angloise_, and has much more correctly the appearance of an English
garden, than the many very humble imitations, which Englishmen are so
often invited to see in France, Germany, and other parts of the
continent, under the abused title of “Jardin Anglois.”
Mr. Ellcock’s favorite pursuit is botany. He is occupied in obtaining an
extensive collection of rare and select plants, and of the different
species of tropical fruits and trees. He is particularly curious
regarding his orchard; but unfortunately he was from home, and the key
was not to be found; hence we lost the opportunity of seeing perhaps the
most varied, and valuable assemblage of fruit-trees in the island. Nor
could we even steal one look at it through any opening, for the gate was
close as the door of a convent, and the surrounding fence was a high
hedge of the lignum vitæ, so thick and impenetrable as to resist even
the prying eye of curiosity.
Both the orchard and garden were originally planned, and have been
wholly planted under the immediate inspection of Mr. Ellcock, to whose
taste and industry every credit is due for the improvements made, and
the very valuable productions already brought together.
Although disappointed in this visit, we have still an eye to the
collection, and do not intend to let it escape without minute
observation; for should it happen that we may be called away, before we
can return to it ourselves, we have made known its situation to a friend
of ours, whose industry and acuteness in the science of botany will not
allow a twig or a flower to pass unnoticed. Our colleague, Dr. Wright,
is told where to find it, and as he is of the Charibbee island staff,
and may remain longer here than ourselves, or may possibly be stationed
in the island, it will be the greatest pleasure perhaps, that could
offer to him, to explore this depôt of tropical plants.
From Mr. Ellcock’s we rode to Bridge-town without further delay, and
arrived in time to go off to the Lord Sheffield before the prohibited
hour of nine, after which no boats are permitted to leave the shore.
To bring into one point the sum of gratification afforded by this
delightful excursion, would be a work of difficulty. You will form some
idea of it from the loose details I have marked. It has offered us an
abundant opportunity of seeing the whole face of the island; of viewing
many of the different plantations; of observing the produce, and method
of cultivation; of witnessing the manners and customs of the
inhabitants; and of noticing the labours and habits of life of the
slaves; whom we have seen in the fields,—in their huts,—in the
sugar-works,—about the houses,—at their moments of rest and retirement,
and amidst all their various occupations and modes of employment.