"Then still farther down I read: 'The Word took the state of man, and

lived among us.' And as I read on, I found that the Word that was with

God, and was God; and created all things; and became flesh and lived

on earth was the same Jesus Christ that I had been reading about in

Matthew, Mark and Luke! I went home and told my wife that I had become

a Christian; and that as the preacher said that all who enter the

Jesus Christ religion must receive the dipping ceremony I am going

to get baptism." "Were you not afraid your heathen neighbours would

make trouble?" I asked him. "What trouble could they make, teacher?

Nearly all of them were in debt to me. But when I told my heathen

wife, she was very angry, and said, 'Very well. If you want to be

baptized,--_be_ baptized,--but I _will not be a Jesus Christ wife_. I

never, never will live with you.' Finding that she would not relent I

said: 'Do not go away.

"'All this trouble is not because of your changing, but because of my

changing. If anybody is to suffer, I must be the one to suffer. There

are the eleven buffaloes, and the six rice-fields, and the house, and

the banana garden,--take everything,--only let me have the thirty

rupees in the box, and I will go away. I will go to Toungoo. If they

will not baptize me there, I will go to Henzada. If they will not

baptize me there, I will go to Bassein. If they will not baptize me

there, I will go to Maulmein.' I had taken the Jesus Christ religion

with my whole mind, and I was determined to be baptized." This was no

idle boast.

He meant just what he said, and, like Paul, was ready to suffer the

loss of everything, that he "might gain Christ, and be found in Him."

His example, so unlike his former self, soon softened his wife's

heart, and she now said: "Never mind, do as you like,--we will live

together."

Not long afterwards she too became a Christian. Wherever U Po Hline

went he fearlessly preached Christ. But it was in his own village

that his influence was specially felt. His faithfulness and success

seemed sufficient evidence of a call to the ministry. Greatly needing

such helpers, I soon arranged for him to give his whole time to

evangelistic work. His ordination, at the Pegu Association held in

Toungoo in 1894,--will long be remembered by the missionaries present.

A missionary at a frontier station sent a request that an ordained

preacher be furnished to baptize several converts already gained, and

to accompany his young preachers on a tour among the villages.

The matter was laid before U Po Hline, and left for him to decide

whether he wished to go, or could stand the long hard journey over

the mountain ranges. Accepting it as a call from God, and trusting

to Him for strength, he got ready and started at once. After spending

a month in that distant field, he prepared to return to his home. It

was a long tramp of sixteen days. The missionary gave him money to

hire a coolie to help carry his load. Besides his roll of bedding,

cooking utensils and food, one of the young preachers had given him

three lacquer-ware vessels, as presents for his former teachers.

The coolie must be paid in advance, according to the custom of the

country. After going a few miles the coolie found an excuse to get out

of U Po Hline's sight, and ran away, taking the money with him. At

the next village another coolie was engaged, who must also be paid in

advance. They had gone but a short distance when he too ran away. U Po

Hline was now without money to pay for help, so he trudged on alone,

carrying the load of two.

He got along very well so long as his path lay along the mountains.

But when he descended into the plains his strength gave out, and he

found himself burning with fever. There was no other way than to plod

on, as he was now far from any village. Finding himself unable to

carry all of his double load, he first threw away some of the cooking

utensils.

Growing weaker, he threw away the bottle of oil and part of the rice.

He would not part with the presents that had been entrusted to his

care for the teachers, whom he loved. To give the rest of the story

in his own words:--"I would plod on until my legs would sustain me no

longer. Then on my knees I would pray: 'O Father, I have been away

doing Thy work, I did the best I could, now give me strength to reach

my home.'

"Then I would get up and go on again until, from weakness, I fell down

in the path. Then I would pray again: 'O Father, I have been away to

do Thy work. I did the very best I could. Now do give me strength to

reach my home.' So I went on, falling, praying, struggling on again,

until at last I reached the cart-road, and joined some cartmen. I had

carefully saved my last rupee to pay my fare when I should come to the

railroad. I thought,--if I must, I can sell my silk turban. But the

cartmen were kind, and gave me food, while I preached to them." As he

finished his story he untied the bundle, and laid the lacquer-ware

presents at our feet, utterly unconscious of the fact that by his

devotion to his teachers, and to what seemed to be his duty he had

shown a spirit of true heroism, worthy to be "told as a memorial" of

him.

A short time before I left Burma U Po Hline came to me and said,

"Saya, I have been thinking like this:--The Apostle Paul said to the

Corinthian Christians, 'Paul planted, Apollos watered; but God gave

the increase.' When Saya came to Pyinmana thirteen years ago there

was not a Christian in this town nor in all this great jungle. No nor

ever had been. It was all wild, the dwelling place of dacoits, tigers,

bears, and snakes. Saya has been planting all these years. There has

been some reaping, to be sure,--but much more is ready for reaping.

When I first came to Pyinmana, wherever I showed myself, in Bazar or

street, the people would call to one another: 'Come and see Jesus

Christ, come and see Jesus Christ.' 'Yes,' I would say, 'I am here to

represent Jesus Christ.' Sometimes they would listen to my preaching,

but often they would jeer so that I could not preach, they were so

ignorant and wild.

"But now, besides our little company of Christians, there are

many in these villages who listen attentively, and some are truly

'considering.'

"Now Saya must return to America, and another Saya will come. Don't

go away discouraged, Saya. We shall _soon be reaping_ here. You will

hear about it, and be glad. If it is God's will that you return to

Burma, you will 'come rejoicing.' When I first came to Pyinmana,"--he

continued; "I had a dream. In my dream I saw great fields of rice on

three sides of this town. These fields were turning yellow, promising

an early and large harvest. How like the Bible, is my dream, I

thought. This dream strengthened my faith and made me glad. God's time

is not yet full, but I believe it will be full soon. This Pyinmana

mission is Corinth. Saya is Paul. Saya has planted, the coming

missionary will be Apollos, to water the planting. God will give the

increase." May this noble Christian hero live many years, to cheer and

help the missionaries, in their common effort to dispel the heathen

darkness.

This faithful native pastor is but one of many who hold not their

lives dear to themselves that they may accomplish their course and the

ministry which they have received from the Lord Jesus, to testify the

gospel of the grace of God.

Nan Paw was born in Ya-bok-kon village, in the year 1877,--so

she thinks, but is not certain as to the village or the date. When

we first saw her she was an orphan, as to her father; worse than

orphaned as to her heathen mother. Both Nan Paw and her elder sister

had already been several years in the mission school. The sister,

Mai Lone, came first. Now and then she returned to her village home

with such wonderful stories of tidy white jackets, pretty _longyis_

(skirts), clean beds, and nice new books, that little Nan Paw wanted

to come too. She wanted to see the big "white mamma," and enjoy the

life that her sister was leading. Mai Lone had learned to read,--a

wonderful thing for a girl to do. Not a girl in the whole village

could read, no, not even her own mother! And Mai Lone could sing,

too! Little Nan Paw sighed for these privileges and accomplishments,

and was a heathen no longer. Never again could she know contentment

among the dogs and filth and degradation of her own village. But in

vain she entreated her mother to let her go with Mai Lone to live

at the mission school. Finding that her pleadings were of no avail,

she took the matter into her own hands, and _ran away_. The mother

finding her little girl settled down in the mission dormitory to stay,

finally gave her consent. When we came to take charge of the school

Nan Paw had already overtaken the older girls in her studies. The

smallest in the class, she was head and shoulders above them all in

brightness and winsomeness. To see her was to love her. It would not

do to make a pet of her, for petting spoils native children as quickly

as kittens. Quick to see what needed to be done, and how to do it, she

soon became very useful about the house. A little later a Christian

Endeavour Society was organized. Nan Paw may have learned to love

Jesus before this; but now, with several others she gave herself to

Him fully and openly, and to the great joy of all, was baptized. The

years rolled by,--and Nan Paw, having passed through all the grades

of the mission school, became a teacher. During a vacation she made a

visit to some of her heathen relations in a distant village. When the

school reopened she did not return to her duties. Several weeks had

passed when we learned that she had returned to her mother's village.

We sent word to her two or three times, urging her to return to the

school, though we could not compel her to do so. At last one of the

Christians went to her home to ascertain, if possible, why she had

become unfaithful to her duties as a Christian teacher. He brought

back word that something was the matter with Nan Paw. When he tried to

talk with her she would keep her hands covered, and try to conceal her

face behind her scarf. With a sad face he said, "I think our Nan Paw

_is a leper_."

Measures were taken at once to ascertain the facts. Alas it was too

true. In some way or other,--whether by heredity or contagion we could

not learn,--our dear Nan Paw had become a victim to that terrible

disease. How our hearts ached for her. Now we knew why she had not

returned to the school. While we were fearing that she was yielding

to heathen influences; and that she was making a poor return for all

the affection we had bestowed upon her, the dear girl's heart was

nearly breaking. She knew that she must bid farewell to her pleasant

life in the mission, and to her beloved associates. All aspirations

to support herself, to rise in her chosen work, to be respected, to

marry well--were utterly crushed. Henceforth she must be an outcast,

despised by her own people. Nothing before her but a living death, the

disease steadily growing upon her, until fingers and toes would waste

away, her whole body become covered with repulsive sores,--and no

power on earth could help her.

After a time arrangements were made to send her to the Leper Asylum at

Mandalay, over two hundred miles away. There, under the direction of

the missionary in charge Nan Paw became a teacher of others--afflicted

like herself. It would not have been strange had she utterly given

up to despair,--and sought release by death. But with wonderful

submission she gave herself to Christian work,--the only woman in the

asylum who could read and teach the Word of God.

Here is a translation of one of Nan Paw's letters to her sister:

"Sister, to you a letter do I send. By the kindness of God

I am come to the Home for Lepers, in Mandalay. Here am I

to teach His law, and in teaching it I am glad. For this

purpose, I am persuaded, has He brought me here. Whether I

am to remain all my life, or for a little while I know not.

My prayer is that God may quickly take me to Himself.

"Why He has brought this affliction upon me I do not know.

"When I consider (my condition) my heart is exceeding

sorrowful.

"The teacher has been very kind, and spent much money upon

me. The physician is good. Now in all things, my sister,

I place myself in the hand of God. In so far as I am able

I will strive to do His will. That I may be happy in

proclaiming His law, will you ever pray.

"Your affectionate sister,

"NAN PAW."

But after a year in the asylum Nan Paw longed to return to her native

village. This she was permitted to do. The disease grew worse and

worse.

Her people, backed by the village priest, then made a determined

effort to break down this poor girl's faith in Christ, and turn her

again to Buddhism. They knew how to cure the disease, they claimed,

and would cure it if she would worship the priest. Pressed beyond

endurance she at last in sheer despair prostrated herself before

the priest in the attitude of worship. They then gave her medicine

several months, the disease all the time growing upon her. Not only

the terrible leprosy of the body, but her soul was troubled with the

thought that by dishonouring her Lord she had become leprous with sin.

One day when they wanted her to join them in their heathen worship she

broke out in great indignation: "No I _never_ will worship like that

again. By your false and useless promises you made me deny my Lord.

But from this time I do it no more. I turn again to my own God, who

can at least save my soul." Again Nan Paw sent word that she wished to

go back to the asylum. She was an outcast in her own village, and in

her own mother's home. No one dared to see her. She cared to see no

one. At the Asylum she could be no unhappier. There all would be alike

unfortunate,--birds of a feather flock together.

I immediately arranged for her return. The native Christians

contributed generously to make up the required sum. As Nan Paw would

be a teacher, the superintendent kindly offered to provide special

quarters for her, apart from the other lepers. I sent word to Nan

Paw that I wished to see her before she went away, for I was soon to

return to America, and might never see her again; that I loved her as

a daughter, just the same as before her misfortune. But she sent back

the pathetic reply: "To dear teacher this brief letter I write. That

God may pour a blessing upon teacher and all the church members I am

praying.

"But I am not fit to be seen. To show my face I am ashamed. I do not

even meet my friends in the village. Therefore please excuse me. By

the half-past eight train I am going to Mandalay. There is with me a

very great sorrow. In no place is there any gladness. Only sorrow's

tears are ever falling. Now because teacher, by the favour of God, is

trying to help me, it is a great kindness. And teacher has written

favourably to Mandalay in order that I may go. That I may be set free

from my great sorrow, and that God may speedily gather to Himself my

soul, ever pray." But when circumstances made it necessary for her to

come to my house she overcame her fears, and in the dim light let me

talk with her, face to face. Again I assured her that "Sayah and Mama"

loved her the same as before; that her Saviour's love was just the

same; that by and by we would be together in heaven, and all be alike,

with all these earthly distresses left behind.

In the asylum Nan Paw is the only Christian woman among about

seventy-five of her own sex and race. Every day she conducts religious

exercises; and every Sunday she stands by the pulpit in the chapel

to set forth Christ as Saviour. After she had been there a few weeks

she sent back this letter: "Dearly beloved teacher. I reverently

greet you, and pray that God may pour His Spirit upon you and all

the Christians, to do His work. Especially, according to teacher's

efforts, in order to do the divine work in this place,--by God's

guidance I have come.

"There have now been three Sundays, and I have preached. The first

Sunday I explained Matt. 5:1-12. The second Sunday I explained John

3:1-21. The third Sunday I explained Acts 13:1-12,--about the ruler's

faith and God's power. God planned that I should be brought to this

place. Nevertheless, teacher,--though I seek ease of mind in this

world, I find only distress. Therefore pray that God may speedily take

my spirit. Because teacher,--according to the will of God, has helped

me, I praise God's mercy.

"Your daughter,

"MA NAN PAW."

In this child of the jungle, brought to Christ through the agency of

the mission school, stricken with a loathsome disease in the prime

of life; submissively bowing to the will of God, and striving to

show others how to escape from the leprosy of sin, we see the true

martyr-spirit. One day the Master will come and touch her with His

finger, saying "Be thou clean," and receive her into His Paradise

above.

XI

PECULIAR EXPERIENCES

It is well for the weary worker in a strange land that with the

austere and sublime, there is now and then a spicing of the ridiculous.

Happy the man who is so constituted as to appreciate the ridiculous

when it happens. A few such instances will serve to illustrate the

many-sidedness of missionary life. The first was when the writer

was a new missionary; otherwise it might not have happened. The

boarding-school occupied the ground floor of the mission bungalow, the

missionaries living above it. One day a great commotion was heard in

the schoolyard. Looking out of the window, the school children could

be seen scattering in all directions. The old saying "Every man for

himself, and the devil take the hindmost," was being enacted in a very

realistic manner.

Hard after the "hindmost" was a demoniac, a crazy Karen woman.

Evidently the children had been teasing her, but oh how they did

repent, as they ran! This terrible creature had seized a short bamboo,

and was rushing after them in insane fury. Poising it like a spear,

she hurled it endwise. Happily it missed its mark, or there would

have been a name or two to strike off the school roll. Advancing at

double-quick I got between the children and the enemy before she

could make another charge. Whether by faith or by force I must now

cast out a demon. Pointing to the gate, I said "_go_." She went not.

"_Go_," I repeated, and suiting the action to the word, started for

the gate with my incumbrance. Started,--only that and nothing more.

There seemed to be two opinions as to ways and means. I recalled a

remark--"The natives are coming to think for themselves." It must

be true. This particular native suddenly collapsed, sinking to the

ground, in a disgusting heap of obstinacy. Filthy beyond description,

hair matted and tangled, her whole person so covered with vermin that

she was scarcely responsible for her movements,--what to do with

her I was at a loss to know. It was a larger contract than had been

bargained for. Something must be done, or the missionary would lose

prestige with the school, and be subjected to repeated annoyances by

this crazy woman. Picking her up by main strength, we started again.

There was a short struggle at the corner of the house, where she

grasped a post with both arms, and held on with the tenacity of an

octopus. Disengaging her from the post, I thought to get up sufficient

momentum to carry her safely through the gate, but failed. Again

there was a tug of war. Again might made right, and our unsavoury

guest gave up the struggle. Casting back a wild but vanquished look,

she departed, never to come back.

We will pass to the "hot season" of our second year.

The missionaries of the station were spending a few weeks of it on a

mountain twenty miles from town. One mission building was in process

of construction,--work that demanded frequent inspection. To look

after this work I must make the round trip of forty miles once a week,

_while resting_. At one time, passing through a Karen village, the

pastor lent me his pony for the journey. On reaching town I threw the

lines to a schoolboy, who unsaddled the pony and turned it loose in

the compound. When ready to return to the mountains it was found that

the pony had walked out through an open gate, and was missing. Search

was made, but the pony was nowhere to be seen. While waiting for the

day to cool, the pony returned of his own accord, and came trotting

into the compound. This was luck indeed. The schoolboy quickly saddled

and bridled the pony, and away I went, anxious to make up the time I

had lost. Arriving at the Karen village I hitched the pony under the

owner's house. A grown-up daughter sitting on the stairs, modestly

inquired "Where is _our_ pony?" "What's the matter with _this_ pony?"

I asked. "_Our_ pony is a _male_," she said. The missionary took off

his hat. He scratched his head. It was dawning upon him that he was in

a pretty mess. If this is not the pony I borrowed, then where is he?

and whose pony have I stolen? And where shall I find the money to pay

for the other pony, if not recovered,--which is an even chance? how

shall I explain being in possession of this one, if called to account?

It did not take long for these questions to go through my mind. The

case called for prompt action, but my empty stomach was calling for

food. Mounting the stolen pony I proceeded up the mountain. Before

reaching camp, the Karen pastor's son came hurrying up the path,

riding on the lost pony. The pony had returned to his own village,

fifteen miles, afoot and alone. One problem was solved, and my mind

relieved to that extent. But in the eye of the law, should the law

find it out,--I was a criminal, for my explanation might or might not

be accepted. As the sun was going down, one of the larger schoolboys

who was at the camp,--started back to town with the other pony. I

gave him a letter addressed to the police, taking upon myself the

responsibility. The boy was not to trouble the police if the police

did not trouble him. Going by the most unfrequented roads, he arrived

in town before midnight. Turning the pony loose where first seen,

he hurried back to the mountain as fast as his legs would carry him,

reaching camp before sunrise. The missionary never knew whose pony he

had taken. It is doubtful whether the owner ever missed it.

At one time I was passing through an unfamiliar jungle accompanied by

a coolie, who also acted as guide. Darkness was coming on and good

time must be made, or we must spend the night in the jungle.

Coming to a place where two roads met, I chose the right hand road but

the guide insisted that the left hand road was the one to take. The

missionary reluctantly yielded to the coolie's better knowledge of the

jungle paths. We went on and on, but instead of coming out into open

country, the jungle grew more and more dense. We were lost. It was now

pitch dark, so that even the wrong road could no longer be followed.

There was nothing left but to spend the night where we were. Just as

we had made up our minds to this, I caught sight of a light, through

the trees. Groping our way ahead we discovered that we were near a

small Karen village. In response to our shouts two men came to meet

us, with guns and torches. They were Christian Karens, and glad to

find that the belated guest was a missionary, rather than a dacoit.

I soon made myself at home with the family and until a late hour

friendly conversation was kept up, through the medium of Burmese. The

children were brought to be inspected and _praised_. The baby, several

months old, had not been named. Wouldn't the teacher please give

the baby a name? It is quite customary for the Karens to ask their

missionaries to name the babies. To this particular missionary, whose

work was wholly among Burmans, it was a unique experience. He had a

dear relative in the home-land, named Julia. She should be honoured

with a namesake. "Please write it out, because we might forget it,"

they said. But there was not a scrap of paper in the house. Taking

the cover from one of my lunch cans the name was carefully scratched

on the inside with a pocket knife, and handed over to be laid up in

the family archives. At last the baby had a name, and the mother was

happy. Now it was time, and long past time, to get a little sleep. The

best mat was unrolled and spread in the open front, for the teacher.

In the coolie's baskets was a change of clothing, greatly needed after

the dust and perspiration of this long day,--but how could clothing be

changed?--Nor husband nor wife nor daughter would retire until they

should see how the teacher did it. The natives themselves usually

sleep in the same clothes they have worn all day. Is a change desired

they have only to put on an extra _longyi_--skirt, and let the inner

skirt fall to the floor. They have no idea how the white people are

dressed, until they see them undress. Such an event is too rare to be

missed. Husband, wife, and grown-up daughters will stand by, with all

the interest of a medical class in a dissecting room, while he takes

himself apart, picking up each piece as he lays it off, with comments

such as only the untutored child of the jungle would ever think of.

There was no help for it,--so, kicking off my shoes, I stretched out

as I was, with my saddle for a pillow. The family then retired, but

evidently feeling that they had not seen their money's worth.

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