_Jewels as Gifts_
It is indeed a gift, not shared by all, to be able to select a truly
appropriate present, one that fits the occasion, the recipient and the
donor. Without this threefold accord, something will seem lacking in even
the most expensive bestowal.
_Give Yourself_
Americans have long recognized the complex ties of sentiment that
should come together in the neat bowknot of a gift. Emerson devoted an
essay to the subject, making the point that the best gift is one that
includes a part of oneself. Lowell, in his great poem _The Vision of
Sir Launfal_, compresses the same idea into a trenchant line: “The gift
without the giver is bare.” We are not all—like grandmother, each of
whose six grandchildren received a linen table set embroidered by her own
hands—able to create our presents; but we can all choose thoughtfully, so
that to the gift clings some savor of our personality.
Nothing is more disappointing—even to those who expected nothing—than
to receive a box of candy evidently picked up at the corner store, or a
bottle of quick-bought wine or whisky. If the wine is of a rare vintage,
the gift shows taste in the donor and respect for the recipient; but
other considerations should be weighed too.
_Gifts of Lasting Value_
Obviously, a gift quickly consumed and soon forgotten is less prized than
one that provides a lengthy or a permanent memento of the occasion. A
good wrist watch, appropriately engraved, may cost no more than a case
of whisky; instead of the bottle of perfume there might be a memorable
charm. Such gifts are evidence of thoughtfulness and warm affection; they
are not transitory; they abide.
Most occasions for bestowing presents are heart-entangled; a gift is a
sign of a sentimental attachment. Some such occasions are touched upon in
other parts of this book; here the emphasis is more practical, indicating
the lines along which proper choice should be made. But whatever sort of
gift is suggested for any particular occasion, it is still the donor’s
concern to show that this is not just a routine purchase, but one that
has been made with affectionate care.
_Gifts to the Baby_
As I have already pointed out, the etiquette of jewelry begins with the
newborn babe. The little charms may be heart-shaped, or a tiny hand of
coral. There may be a small string of turquoises as a bracelet, long
believed sure to keep the infant from falling. One of the gifts a child
will come to prize more and more as the years go by is a little necklace
of pearls—to which at each birthday another choice pearl or two are
added, until the budding young woman has a beautiful string.
_To the Mother Too_
Among European aristocratic families it is the pleasant practice to
present a gift to the mother, as well as to the newborn child. The
husband can express his joy no more satisfactorily than by a precious
jewel. This might be of pearls or diamonds, to be added to on subsequent
birthdays.
In royal houses, especially on the birth of the first male, elaborate
gifts were showered on the mother not only by the family, but by the
people, the state, and other royal houses. Outstandingly luxurious are
some of the jewels created by Fabergé for the lavish Czars of Russia to
present at the time of a noble birth.
_As the Child Grows_
Birthdays for the growing girl or boy are likely, in the earlier years,
to include many books and toys; but, for the girl, earclips, lockets,
charms, and brooches may be given, including if possible the appropriate
birthstone.
Graduation from high school may be fitly marked by a gold pin or a watch;
often the school has its seal available on a gold ring or pin. And in the
fall, if the young lady goes on to college, a small pin or clip with her
initials in gold is an appropriate and traditional gift.
_St. Valentine’s Day_
Perhaps the casual or humorous Valentine is to be replaced by more
serious sentiments, and more memorable gifts. Dress clips, earclips,
money clips, and tie clips are all appropriate in the shape of a heart.
A heart-shaped locket may open, to set a picture inside. Gems are cut
heart-shape: the topaz, the amethyst, the diamond. These gems may be set
in a ring, or the ring itself may bear a heart of precious metal. But
remember the warning in the chapter on rings: the ring is a jewel of
binding symbol, and should be given or exchanged only when the tie is
truly close.
_College Days_
Certain occasions in college dictate not only their own jewels but
the manner of their presentation. A sorority or fraternity pin may
be designed with different varieties or qualities of gem, but in all
likelihood there will be one type, and one formal occasion on which it is
conferred upon the happy initiate. Similarly, the Phi Beta Kappa key and
the insignia of other honorary societies are prescribed by tradition and
won by merit.
When a young man and a young woman exchange such pins, however, time is
approaching for the lasting ties. Gift-giving is one of the pleasures
of courtship. On many a night a corsage or a box of bonbons is quite in
place; but more significant, and a richer testimony to one’s love, are
the twin friendship rings, or the farther-progressed lovers’ knots which
can be found in earclips, rings, and brooches.
_The Wedding Day_
The engagement ring marks the promise, the wedding ring marks the
fulfilment. But the wedding ring is a symbol upon which the ages have
set their approving stamp; it is not a gift. Some special token of the
groom’s appreciation and love should warm the heart of the bride.
Tradition suggests a necklace, which in its way is also a binding symbol.
What it is made of depends wholly on the groom. It may be a plain gold
band, or a golden series of little leaves, or of orange blossoms. It may
be of pearls with a diamond clasp; it may be all of diamonds.
Whatever the material of the necklace, it should be of a fashion
appropriate for a maid; nothing heavy, nothing with an air of
sophistication; something of almost fragile grace, suggesting youth and
simple feminine charm.
_For the Bridesmaids_
The matron of honor and the bridesmaids should receive their gifts from
the bride at a luncheon or other occasion, such as the rehearsal, as
close as possible to the ceremony. She will by that time know what they
are wearing and fit her gifts to their gowns. Among appropriate gifts
are gold charm bracelets, disks, cigarette boxes, powder compacts,
lipstick holders, and the like. These should be engraved with the date
of the wedding, the name of the happy couple, and a memorable phrase. If
the jewels are such as have no proper space for engraving, the box that
contains the jewel should be embossed with the initials or name of the
couple, and the appropriate words.
_For the Ushers_
The groom in similar fashion, and with the same engraving, makes his
gifts to the best man and the ushers. In gold, he may choose tie pins
and clips, cuff links, money clips, key chains, toothpicks. Pencils and
fountain pens are appropriate, or silver letter-openers, with the box or
the article bearing the signs of the occasion.
_Other Gifts to the Bride_
In addition to any more substantial contribution to the hopes and
happiness of the newlyweds, the parents of the groom should give their
daughter-in-law-elect a gift that she will wear on her wedding day. This
will usually take the form of a brooch or clip. A flower design is always
appropriate; more playfully accordant is a clip of a four-leaf clover or
of bells, in diamonds.
Perhaps the most touching among the wedding gifts is that which comes to
the bride from the grandmother. In many cases, it will be a jewel that
grandmother wore on her own wedding day; it is thus not only a precious
but a tender link that helps bind the family through the generations.
_Parents’ Days_
When time comes around for Mother’s Day, then Father’s Day, we realize
that all through the year our parents’ love reaches out to us and
deserves our grateful thoughts. Every day is a day to honor one’s
parents. They have shown us that love is the one gift one need not earn.
“Home,” says the poet, “is the place where, when you have to go there,
they have to take you in.”
But on the special day set aside for Mother, children may combine to
give her a bracelet on which charms commemorate happy family times,
or list the names of children, grandchildren, and—if the years are
generous—great-grandchildren. A tree of life, a family tree, or various
brooches, make excellent gifts.
Gifts for Father are likely to be simpler. Gold cuff links suggest
themselves, shaped in his initials. A gold pencil or pen, a key ring,
or—if it does not seem too much like a hint!—a money clip, may all be
appropriately inscribed, as a tribute to the person commonly called the
head of the family.
_For Later Birthdays_
Birthday presents become more complicated, and longer cherished, after
childhood. The older one grows—in spite of the jesting about beginning to
count backwards—the more one should have absorbed of the wisdom of life,
and the more endeared one should be to friends and family.
For one’s wife, one may add a tender touch to a bracelet or other jewel,
by a secret message others will not guess. Thus the first letters of four
stones set in this order—diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby—spell _Dear_.
One can form an alphabet of stones from which many hidden messages can be
conveyed to the loved one alone.
For a man, a beautiful birthday gift is a ring with a star ruby, a star
sapphire, or a cat’s-eye, set in simple heavy metal, gold, platinum
or palladium. A plain gold signet ring is in good taste, or one with
initials sculptured of the metal.
Remember, in buying a ring for a man, that it should be solid; for a big
man, quite a heavy band. A man pays little attention to his jewelry, once
he has put it on, and gives it the hardest wear. He keeps on his ring,
for example, while driving his car, swinging through a round of golf,
even performing a quick repair job in the house or working through some
“do it yourself” mechanics.
_Gifts For the Man_
Whatever a man needs, he probably has. Most gifts to men, therefore, such
as cuff links, provide them with another jewel of a kind they already
possess. This should be no deterrent, however, for what a man prizes is
less the gift itself than the feeling that inspired it.
I will venture the suggestion that man is the sentimental sex. If there
is evidence of thoughtfulness behind the gift, he will doubly cherish it.
Those cuff links, for example, can be chosen in a pattern that suggests
one of his special interests or brings memories of some incident shared
only by his wife.
_The Wife’s Role_
Every business and professional man is aware of the importance of proper
appearance. Many, however, do not have the time a woman has to shop and
weigh and consider. Some, indeed, would not think it becoming in a man
to spend much time seeking items for his personal embellishment. Yet he
likes to be well dressed and is naturally pleased when his good taste in
accessories is admired.
It is thus often the wife’s role to see that her husband is fitly
equipped. No well groomed man overlooks the place of jewelry in his
dress, but his choice is likely to be quick, almost slap-bang. It is a
further sign of her love that the wife takes it upon herself to make
meticulous choices for him. It is as important for a man to wear the
right jewelry as it is to wear a clean, well-fitting shirt.
_The Right Accessories_
However elegant a man’s wristwatch, there is, for formal occasions,
greater distinction in a thin pocket watch. With a fraternity key, a
pocket watch and chain are also appropriate, or else a key ring and chain.
Tie clips and money clips may be secured in many varieties.
A superb and truly masculine pair of cuff links can be fashioned of
twenty-four carat gold nuggets. Although not shiny, they have an
unmistakably precious look; and, as a gift, they capture the genuineness
of the feeling in the purest of gold.
_The Personal Touch_
A wise and thoughtful—not to say loving—woman will add a personal
touch that marks the gift as something intimately shared. A few words
engraved on the gift, a date significant in the two lives—it may be the
anniversary of their first meeting—add a special significance that makes
the gift a treasure.
Just as there may be secrets caught into a gift to a woman, as when the
jewels spell out a sentiment, so a gift to a man may have its values
multiplied by a hidden message. That bar on the key chain, for example:
who but the two concerned know that it can open and reveal a tiny picture
of the beloved? Inside the ring may be their linked initials. In many
ways which will suggest themselves, according to the events in the
particular couple’s life, a secret shared in the gift keeps the love
twinkling.
_Special Gifts_
On various business and professional occasions, certain gifts have become
established by long practice. A twenty-fifth or other such anniversary in
business relations is appropriately marked by the gift of a gold watch.
Executives leaving their company may be given gold cigarette boxes or
cases.
To mark special appreciation of an employee, gold cuff links bearing the
seal of the company are a frequent testimonial. A gold watch may mark his
long and faithful service.
Various professions have their honors, as when a doctor is received
into the association of his specialty; in such cases there are usually
insignia that can be wrought into the gift.
_Historic Gifts_
Among givers of gifts, perhaps the nobles and the Czars of Russia have
been most lavish. The painted Easter eggs of the Russians are widely
known, and many amusing and artistic designs have been painted on actual
eggs. But the Easter egg jewels made by Fabergé are gem-studded works of
the lapidary’s art.
Czars and Emperors—Nicholas, Franz Josef—have bestowed upon persons, who
caught their favor, watches initialed in diamonds. Sometimes, however,
the Czar merely ordered the bestowal of the gift, leaving the details
to an officer of the court. This happened after the first command
performance of Chaliapin who scornfully refused the proffered watch,
saying that the Czar had never sent him that! Shortly after, Chaliapin
received another watch, this one with the Imperial coat-of-arms in
diamonds.
For King Zog of Albania, our firm developed a jewel that has grown in
popularity: a watch so thin that it is fitted inside of a hollowed coin.
Those coins bore a relief of King Zog on one side, his coat-of-arms on
the other; the watches were presented to high officers for supremacy in
horsemanship and other contests.
_The Presentation of a Gift_
In the United States, where the packaging industry has achieved
consummate skills, the way in which a gift is presented is particularly
important. The care taken in selecting the jewel must be reflected in the
container. The first thing the recipient sees is the wrapping; this must
quicken the anticipation of the surprise and delight inside.
Naturally, the gift comes wrapped by the jeweler. It should be left that
way. A precious jewel will be encased in a fine leather or velvet box.
To this, the jeweler has given considerable thought, selecting shape,
size, color, and material that will display the particular jewel to best
advantage. Often, when I design a piece of jewelry, I am asked to suggest
how to package it for presentation. The box, then, is a carefully chosen
background for the jewel.
For an especially significant gift, it can be arranged to have the box
embossed in gold with the initials or name of the person receiving it,
and the date of the special occasion.
Without taking the jewel out of its wrapping and box, there are many
ways in which an added personal arrangement may grace the giving. The
jewelry box, for instance, may be adorned with a single rose, or a few
of the lady’s favorite flowers, or flowers associated with a mutual
memory. Or the florist may be asked to place the jewelry box inside the
cellophane box that holds a corsage or an orchid. The flower brings its
own pleasure, then multiplied by the surprise of the jewel.
The sweet tingle of surprise may also be increased by enclosing the
jewelry box in a larger one, which disguises the typical shape of the
gift box. If the gift is a bracelet, it might well be tucked into a glove
box, along with a pair of gloves. Or the jewel may be innocently placed
in a drawer of a little antique jewelry case; on opening the attractive
case, behold! the attractive jewel.
At Christmas time, the box can be set upon the tree. Still more appealing
would be a separate tree, such as those little artificial ones, the sole
ornament of which is the box with the proffered jewel.
In the Middle Ages, when jewels were thought to have special powers to
preserve health, to ward off evil, they were thus effective only when
received as a gift. The gift of jewels still has a special power, beyond
the intrinsic value of the gems carrying the weight of love, establishing
a memento and sustaining the sentiments that build into happy lives.
[Illustration: 48. PORTRAIT OF H. H. INDIRA DEVI. _The Maharani of Cooch
Behar holds a famous necklace of rare ruby beads with two large clasps
made of diamonds._]
[Illustration: 49. SPRAY PIN DESIGN. _Round, marquise and baguette
diamonds create this handsome clip which can also be worn in the hair or
separated for earclips._]
[Illustration: 50. DESIGN FOR A DIAMOND CLIP. _Round and pearshape
diamonds form a pendant of grape-like design which can be detached from
the baguette ribbons and worn as a striking addition to a pearl or
diamond necklace._]
[Illustration: 51. DESIGN FOR A DOUBLE CLIP. _Distinctive effects are
produced when this clip of round and baguette diamonds is separated into
its two harmonizing but unequal parts._]
[Illustration: 52. DESIGN FOR A GOLD AND DIAMOND PIN. _Round diamonds
individually set in 18 karat gold create this handsome jewel._]
[Illustration: 53. PORTRAIT OF FLIPPY. _The author’s poodle is sculptured
in 22 karat gold. The eye is represented by a yellow diamond, and the
collar is made of baguettes._]
[Illustration: 54. FLORIAN. _This replica of Emperor Franz Josef I’s
snow-white show horse, immortalized in Felix Salten’s book, is wrought
in platinum with 246 diamonds. The bridle and hoofs are made of pure
fine-gold._]
[Illustration: 55. SET OF EARCLIPS AND BROOCH. _The same motif is
repeated in both the pin and the earclips without making them identical.
Movement is suggested by the sculptured effect of the leaves. The
delicacy of this design makes it ideal for the petite woman._]
[Illustration: 56. GOLD AND DIAMOND WATCH. _Gubelin of Switzerland
designed this gold watch bracelet with a diamond motif which gracefully
conceals the face of the watch. The wide band is well-suited to a heavy
wrist._]
[Illustration: 57. PEARL NECKLACE WITH TWO DIAMOND MOTIFS. _To stress a
delicate neckline, three strands of perfectly matched pearls are tapered
down to two strands in back. The two abstract ornaments of platinum and
round and baguette diamonds are both decorative and functional—one of the
motifs contains the clasp._]
[Illustration: 58. TABLE OF STONES. _The four most desired shapes of
diamonds (from top to bottom)_:
_The round brilliant-cut diamond_
_The emerald-cut diamond_
_The marquise-cut diamond_
_The pearshape diamond_]
[Illustration: 59. MODELS OF THE KOHINOOR DIAMOND. _The model in the hand
shows the famous stone as it appeared to Queen Victoria when presented to
her in 1850 by the East India Company. At that time it weighed 186 carats
but, because the Indian form of cutting was thought to smother some of
the natural fire, the Queen decided to have it re-cut. After 38 days of
work, the re-cut stone, shown in the replica on the cushion, weighs only
109 carats. The Kohinoor is now in Queen Elizabeth’s crown._]
[Illustration: 60. GOLD CIGAR BOX. _Presented to the late King Carol
II of Roumania, this unique box is engraved with a map of his country
depicting the agriculture and industry. The natural resources are
highlighted by precious stones—a different stone is used for each product
of raw material. The clasp, representing the royal coat of arms, is made
of diamonds and platinum._]
PART FOUR
_The Techniques and Care of Jewels_