I set out for New York on the afternoon of the 16th. We had a pleasant
journey, over a rich and well cultivated tract of country, to Bristol. We
soon after crossed the Delaware, in a scow constructed to carry the stage
and horses over in a few minutes, without even taking the latter from the
carriage. We then entered the state of Jersey, and slept at Trenton, which
we left before sunrise the next morning; a circumstance I regretted, as I
wished to see the falls of the river Delaware in that neighbourhood, which
I am informed are worthy the attention of a traveller.
Our journey across the Jerseys was pleasant; but the land is by no means
so rich as on the other side of the Delaware. Pennsylvania is, in my
opinion, justly called the Garden of America, at least of the United
States _East_ of the Allegany Mountains. We dined at New Brunswick,
where there is a wooden bridge, with stone piers, thrown over a broad and
rapid river. Our landlord informed us, several englishmen assured him, "It
was _very like_ Westminster Bridge." Though my conscience would not
permit me, _exactly_ to chime with my countrymen, it is but justice
to acknowledge, that when the infant state of the country is considered,
it is a work of equal magnitude, boldly designed, and neatly executed.
About four in the afternoon, we embarked in a small vessel for New York,
which is situate on an island, in a bay, formed by the conflux of two
large rivers, the Hudson or North, and the East river.
The city covers the south end of the island, and, as you approach it in
that direction from the Jersey shore, seems like Venice, gradually rising
from the sea. The evening was uncommonly pleasant; the sky perfectly clear
and serene, and the sun, in setting with all that vivid warmth of
colouring peculiar to southern latitudes, illuminated some of the most
beautiful scenery in nature, on the north river, and adjacent country. For
some minutes all my faculties were absorbed in admiration of the
surrounding objects! I never enjoyed a prospect more enchanting; but this
pleasure was of short continuance; I unfortunately cast my eyes towards
the city, and immediately recollected _two words_ I heard in the
Jerseys (yellow fever); at which the delusion vanished!
_New York, Sept. 18th_.--My Jersey intelligence was too true; but the
disorder is chiefly confined to one part of the city, and is effectually
prevented from spreading at present by the N.W. wind, which is set in this
morning with uncommon severity; a circumstance which sometimes happens at
this season of the year, and is of long continuance. This kind of weather
the Indians call _half_ winter. Unfortunately for the Philadelphians,
they had no half winter in the year 1793.--I spent this day in surveying
the city, which, as well as the manners of the inhabitants, is more like
England than any other part of America. New York is a London in miniature,
populous streets, hum of business, busy faces, shops in style, &c.
_Sept. 25th,_--I spent this day in viewing the city with increasing
admiration: It is certainly one of the first maritime situations in the
world. The extensive settlements on the banks of the Hudson, which
is navigable upwards of two hundred miles, amply supplies the city
with exports and provision. The inhabitants boast of having the best
fish-market in the United States; their own oyster-beds, and their
vicinity to the _New England states_, give them this advantage[Footnote:
There are fish on the coast of America which have certain boundaries,
beyond which they never go; salmon, for instance, is never found south of
a river in Connecticut; and certain southern fish never visit the New
England coast.].--The governor's house, new theatre, and tontine coffee
house, are magnificent buildings; the public walks well laid out, and
pleasantly situate.
One advantage this city possesses peculiar to itself; you may be as much
in the country as you can desire for five farthings english money: the
fare is no more to Long Island, where you may be conveyed, from the heart
of the city, in a few minutes, and meet with as great a variety of hill
and dale, wood and water, as in any part of the world. This island is
ninety miles in length.
_Sept. 19th_.--I intended proceeding to Boston, by the way of Rhode
Island, as I was informed the passage through _Hell Gates_[Footnote:
A dangerous strait, between stupendous rocks.] and the Sound is very
pleasant at this season; but the fear of being obliged to perform a
quarantine at my arrival prevented me. I set off this morning, in the
stage. Our course lay the whole length of the island, which is barren and
rocky; affording some romantic situations, in several of which I observed
(to use a cockney phrase) _snug little boxes_; these, I was informed,
belonged to the wealthy citizens; they commanded a view of the city, the
North River, the Sound, and adjacent islands.
At noon we entered Connecticut, the most southerly of the New England
states. Slept at Fairfield.
On the night of the 20th we reached Hertford, the capital of the state.--
About five miles from it, a house was pointed out to me, where a very
shocking circumstance took place a few years ago.--A merchant, not being
able to bear a change in his circumstances from affluence to extreme
poverty, coolly and deliberately shot his wife and five children, and
afterward himself. He tried every means, for several days, to send his
wife away; but she preferred dying with him and the children. He left a
paper on the table, informing his friends, that his only motive for
committing this rash action was to rescue his family from a situation,
which he himself found insupportable.
_Sept. 21st._--We this afternoon entered the state of Massachusetts.
I found New England very different from any part of America I had before
seen; the soil but very indifferent, rocky, and mountainous, interspersed
with some rich tracts of land in the valleys; the up lands are divided by
means of stone walls, as in Derbyshire, and some other parts of Great
Britain.
They have few negroes, or european emigrants; so far from wanting the
latter, as in the South, they send great numbers every year to the new
settlements in the South-west.
When we made any stay at a tavern on the road, I observed one of my
fellow travellers (who was very eloquent upon this subject) take every
opportunity of singing forth the praises of _New Virginia_[Footnote: A
rich tract of country, west of the Allegany Mountains.].--The north-west
wind continuing, the morning of the 22d was very cold; and we breakfasted
with a number of strangers. Our orator did not lose this opportunity of
holding forth on his favourite topic. I recollect the latter part of his
harangue was to the following effect:--_"There,"_ says he, (while the New
Englanders were staring with their _mouths open_,) "when I clear a fresh
lot of land on any of my plantations, I am obliged to plant it six or
seven years with hemp, or tobacco, before it is sufficiently _poor_ to
bear wheat! My indian corn grows twelve or thirteen feet high; I'll dig
four feet deep on my best land, and it shall then be sufficiently rich to
_manure_ your barren hills; and as to the climate, there is no comparison:
this cursed cold north-west wind loses all it's severity before it reaches
us; our winters are so mild, that our cattle requite no fodder, but range
the woods all winter; and our summers are more moderate than on your side
the Allegany; and as to----" Here the stage-driver put an end to his
oration, by informing us, all was ready to proceed on our journey.
We must not be surprised, that numbers, who cultivate an ungrateful soil
in this cold climate, should be induced, by such descriptions as the
above, to emigrate to our orator's land of promise, I am informed ten
thousand persons emigrated from these states to Kentucky _alone_, in
one year. I have lately seen a flattering description of this country,
published in London: that the accounts are exaggerated, I have no doubt,
as it is said to be written by a speculator; deeply interested in the sale
of lands in the new settlements. I had a strong suspicion our fellow
traveller was of this description, and took every opportunity to
cross-examine him on this subject; he stuck true to his text, insisted
that all he advanced was literally true, but acknowledged he was going to
receive a sum of money for land he had sold to some emigrants from the
province of Main, and that he expected to sell a considerable tract before
his return. I arrived at Boston the 23d instant, four hundred and
seventy-four miles from Baltimore.
Yours, &c.
_P.S._ I find we are to have a most vigorous theatrical opposition. A sort
of dramatic mania has lately seiz'd the inhabitants. The _primitive_
Bostonians would as soon have admitted the plague as a company of players;
but the present inhabitants having more liberal sentiments, a company of
comedians came to this town about four years ago, and ventured to exhibit
dramatic pieces, under the title of _Moral Lectures_. At length a bill
passed the General Assembly of Massachusetts to licence theatrical
performances; and as it is natural for mankind to run from one extreme to
another, they have this year _two_ theatres, both of which are attended
with a prodigious expence. Some of the performers are engaged at upwards
of 20_l_. english per week; and Mrs. Whitlocke (sister to Mrs. Siddons,
whom you may perhaps recollect at the Haymarket) is to have 180_l_.
sterling for six nights. This opposition will in all probability end in
the ruin of the managers, or rather of the _subscribers, who are bound for
the payments_.
* * * * *
_Boston, October 3d, 1796._