There is no spot, I believe, that could afford a more ample field for

curious observations, than the island of Ischia, called Enaria, Inarime,

and Pithecusa, by the ancients. I have visited it three times; and this

summer passed three weeks there, during which time I examined, with

attention, every part of it. Ischia is eighteen miles in circumference:

the whole of its soil is the same as that near Vesuvius, Naples, and

Puzzole. There are numberless springs, hot, warm, and cold[41],

dispersed over the whole island, the waters of which are impregnated

with minerals of various sorts; so that, if you give credit to the

inhabitants of the country, there is no disorder but what finds its

remedy here. In the hot months (the season for making use of these

baths), those who have occasion for them flock hither from Naples. A

charitable institution sends and maintains three hundred poor patients

at the baths of Gurgitelli every season. By what I could learn of these

poor patients, those baths have really done wonders, in cases attended

with obstinate tumours, and in contractions of the tendons and muscles.

The patient begins by bathing, and then is buried in the hot sand near

the sea. In many parts of the island, the sand is burning hot, even

under water. The sand on some parts of the shore is almost entirely

composed of particles of iron ore; at least they are attracted by the

load-stone, as I have experienced. Near that part of the island called

Lacco, there is a rock of an ancient lava, forming a small cavern, which

is shut up with a door; this cavern is made use of to cool liquors and

fruit, which it does in a short time as effectually as ice. Before the

door was opened, I felt the cold to my legs very sensibly; but when it

was opened, the cold rushed out so as to give me pain; and within the

grotto it was intolerable. I was not sensible of wind attending this

cold; though upon Mount Etna and Mount Vesuvius, where there are caverns

of this kind, the cold is evidently occasioned by a subterraneous wind:

the natives call such places _ventaroli_. May not the quantity of nitre,

with which all these places abound, account in some measure for such

extreme cold? My thermometer was unluckily broken, or I would have

informed you of the exact degree of the cold in this _ventaroli_ of

Ischia, which is by much the strongest in its effects I ever felt. The

ancient lavas of Ischia shew, that the eruptions there have been very

formidable; and history informs us, that its first inhabitants were

driven out of the island by the frequency and the violence of them.

There are some of these ancient lavas not less than two hundred feet in

depth. The mountain of St. Nicola, on which there is at present a

convent of hermits, was called by the ancients Epomeus; it is as high,

if not higher, than Vesuvius, and appears to me to be a section of the

cone of the ancient and principal Volcano of the island, its composition

being all _tufa_ or lava. The cells of the convent abovementioned are

cut out of the mountain itself; and there you see plainly that its

composition no way differs from the matter that covers Herculaneum, and

forms the Monte Nuovo. There is no sign of a crater on the top of this

mountain, which rises almost to a sharp point: time, and other

accidents, may be reasonably supposed to have worn away this distinctive

mark of its having been formed by explosion, as I have seen to be the

case in other mountains, formed evidently by explosion, on the flanks of

Etna and Vesuvius. Strabo, in his 5th book, upon the subject of this

island, quotes Timaeus, as having said, that, a little before his time, a

mountain in the middle of Pithecusa, called Epomeus, was shook by an

earthquake, and vomited flames.

There are many other rising grounds in this island, that, from the

nature of their composition, must lead one to think the same as to their

origin. Near the village of Castiglione, there is a mountain formed

surely by an explosion of a much later date, having preserved its

conical form and crater entire, and producing as yet but a slender

vegetation: there is no account, however, of the date of this eruption.

Nearer the town of Ischia, which is on the sea shore, at a place called

_Le Cremate_, there is a crater, from which, in the year 1301 or 1302, a

lava ran quite into the sea; there is not the least vegetation on this

lava, but it is nearly in the same state as the modern lavas of

Vesuvius. Pontano, Maranti, and D. Francesco Lombardi, have recorded

this eruption; the latter of whom says, that it lasted two months; that

many men and beasts were killed by the explosion; and that a number of

the inhabitants were obliged to seek for refuge at Naples and in the

neighbouring islands. In short, according to my idea, the island of

Ischia must have taken its rise from the bottom of the sea, and been

increased to its present size by divers later explosions. This is not

extraordinary, when history tells us (and from my own observation I have

reason to believe) that the Lipari islands were formed in the like

manner. There has been no eruption in Ischia since that just mentioned,

but earthquakes are very frequent there; two years ago, as I was told,

they had a very considerable shock of an earthquake in this island.

Father Goree's account of the formation of the new island in the

Archipelago (situated between the two islands called Kammeni, and near

that of Santorini) of which he was an eye-witness, strongly confirms the

probability of the conjectures I venture to send you, relative to the

formation of those islands and that part of the continent above

described: it seems likewise to confirm the accounts given by Strabo,

Pliny, Justin, and other ancient authors, of many islands in the

Archipelago, formerly called the Ciclades, having sprung up from the

bottom of the sea[42] in the like manner. According to Pliny, in the

4th year of the CXXXVth Olympiad, 237 years before the Christian aera,

the island of Thera (now Santorini) and Theresia were formed by

explosion; and, 130 years later, the island Hiera (now called the great

Kammeni) rose up. Strabo describes the birth of this island in these

words: "In the middle space between Thera and Theresia flames burst out

of the sea for four days, which, by degrees, throwing up great masses,

as if they had been raised by machines, they formed an island of twelve

stadia in circuit." And Justin says of the same island, "Eodem anno

inter insulas Theramenem et Theresiam, medio utriusque ripae et maris

spatio, terrae motus fuit: in quo, cum admiratione navigantium, repente

ex profundo cum calidis aquis Insula emersit."

Pliny mentions also the formation of Aspronisi, or the White Island, by

explosion, in the time of Vespasian. It is known, likewise, that in the

year 1628, one of the islands of the Azores, near the island of St.

Michael, rose up from the bottom of the sea, which was in that place 160

fathoms deep; and that this island, which was raised in fifteen days, is

three leagues long, a league and a half broad, and rises three hundred

and sixty feet above water.

Father Goree, in his account of the formation of the new island in the

Archipelago, mentions two distinct matters that entered into the

composition of this island, the one black, the other white. Aspronisi,

probably from its very name, is composed of the white matter, which if,

upon examination, it proves to be a _tufa_, as I strongly suspect, I

should think myself still more grounded in my conjectures; though I must

confess, as it is, I have scarcely a doubt left with respect to the

country I have been describing having been thrown up in a long series

of ages by various explosions from subterraneous fire. Surely there are

at present many existing Volcanos in the known world; and the memory of

many others have been handed down to us by history. May there not

therefore have been many others, of such ancient dates as to be out of

the reach of history[43]?

Such wonderful operations of Nature are certainly intended by all-wise

Providence for some great purpose. They are not confined to any one part

of the globe, for there are Volcanos existing in the four quarters of

it. We see the great fertility of the soil thrown up by explosion, in

part of the country I have described, which on that account was called

by the ancients _Campania Felix_. The same circumstance is evident in

Sicily, justly esteemed one of the most fertile spots in the world, and

the granary of Italy. May not subterraneous fire be considered as the

great plough (if I may be allowed the expression), which Nature makes

use of to turn up the bowels of the earth, and afford us fresh fields to

work upon, whilst we are exhausting those we are actually in possession

of, by the frequent crops we draw from them? Would it not be found, upon

enquiry, that many precious minerals must have remained far out of our

reach, had it not been for such operations of Nature? It is evidently so

in this country. But such great enquiries would lead me far indeed. I

will only add a reflection, which my little experience in this branch of

natural history furnishes me with. It is, that we are apt to judge of

the great operations of Nature on too confined a plan. When first I came

to Naples, my whole attention, with respect to natural history, was

confined to Mount Vesuvius, and the wonderful phaenomena attending a

burning mountain: but, in proportion as I began to perceive the evident

marks of the same operation having been carried on in the different

parts above described, and likewise in Sicily in a greater degree, I

looked upon Mount Vesuvius only as a spot on which Nature was at present

active; and thought myself fortunate in having an opportunity of seeing

the manner in which one of her great operations (an operation, I

believe, much less out of her common course than is generally imagined)

was effected.

Such remarks as I have made on the eruptions of Mount Vesuvius, during

my residence at Naples, have been transmitted to the Royal Society, who

have done them more honour than they deserved. Many more might be made

upon this active Volcano, by a person who had leisure, a previous

knowledge of the natural history of the earth, a knowledge of chemistry,

and was practised in physical experiments, particularly those of

electricity[44]. I am convinced, that the smoak of Volcanos contains

always a portion of electrical matter; which is manifest at the time of

great eruptions, as is mentioned in my account of the great eruption of

Vesuvius in 1767. The peasants in the neighbourhood of my villa,

situated at the foot of Vesuvius, have assured me, that, during the

eruption last mentioned, they were more alarmed by the lightning and

balls of fire that fell about them with a crackling noise, than by the

lava and the usual attendants of an eruption. I find in all the accounts

of great eruptions mention made of this sort of lightning, which is

distinguished here by the name of _Ferilli_. Bracini, in his account of

the great one of Vesuvius in 1631, says, that the column of smoak, which

issued from its crater, went over near an hundred miles of country, and

that several men and beasts were struck dead by lightning, issuing from

this smoak in its course.

The nature of the noxious vapours, called here _mofete_, that are

usually set in motion by an eruption of the Volcano, and are then

manifest in the wells and subterraneous parts of its neighbourhood, seem

likewise to be little understood. From some experiments very lately

made, by the ingenious Dr. Nooth, on the _mofete_ of the Grotto del

Cane, it appears that all its known qualities and effects correspond

with those attributed to fixed air. Just before the eruption of 1767, a

vapour of this kind broke into the King's chapel at Portici, by which a

servant, opening the door of it, was struck down. About the same time,

as his Sicilian Majesty was shooting in a paddock near the palace, a dog

dropped down, as was supposed, in a fit; a boy going to take him up

dropped likewise; a person present, suspecting the accident to have

proceeded from a _mofete_, immediately dragged them both from the spot

where they lay, in doing which, he was himself sensible of the vapour;

the boy and the dog soon recovered. His Sicilian Majesty did me the

honour of informing me himself of this accident soon after it had

happened. I have met with these _mofetes_ often, when I have been making

my observations on the borders of Mount Vesuvius, particularly in

caverns, and once on the Solfaterra. The vapour affects the nostrils,

throat, and stomach, just as the spirit of hartshorn, or any strong

volatile salts; and would soon prove fatal, if you did not immediately

remove from it. Under the ancient city of Pompeii, the _mofetes_ are

very frequent and powerful, so that the excavations that are carrying on

there are often interrupted by them; at all times _mofetes_ are to be

met with under ancient lavas of Vesuvius, particularly those of the

great eruption of 1631. In Serao's account of the eruption of 1737, and

in the chapter upon _mofetes_, he has recorded several curious

experiments relative to this phaenomenon. The Canonico Recupero, who, as

I mentioned to you in a former letter, is watching the operations of

Mount Etna, has just informed me, that a very powerful _mofete_ has

lately manifested itself in the neighbourhood of Etna; and that he

found, near the spot from whence it rises, animals, birds, and insects,

dead, and the stronger sort of shrubs blasted, whilst the grass and the

tenderer plants did not seem to be affected. The circumstance of this

_mofete_, added to that of the frequent earthquakes felt lately at

Rhegio and Messina, makes it probable that an eruption of Mount Etna is

at hand.

I am alarmed at the length of this letter. By endeavouring to make

myself clearly understood, I have been led to make, what I thought,

necessary digressions. I must therefore beg of your goodness, that,

should you find this memoir, in its present state, too tedious (which I

greatly apprehend) to be presented to our respectable Society, you will

make only such extracts from it as you shall think will be most

agreeable and interesting. I am,

SIR,

With great truth and regard,

Your most obedient

humble servant,

W. HAMILTON.

[Illustration: _Plate VI._]

REFERENCES to the MAP,

[Plate VI.]

1. Naples.

2. Portici.

3. Resina, under which Herculaneum is buried.

4. Torre del Greco.

5. Hermitage, at which travellers usually rest, in their way up

Mount Vesuvius.

6. St. Angelo, a convent of Calmaldolese, situated upon a cone of

a mountain formed by an ancient explosion.

7. Cones formed by the eruption of 1760, and lava that ran from

them almost into the sea.

8. Mount Vesuvius and Somma.

9. Village of Somma.

10. The convent of the Madona del Arco, under which lavas have

been found at 300 feet depth, and which must have proceeded

from the mountain of Somma, when an active Volcano.

11. Ottaiano.

12. Torre del Annunziata.

13. Castel a Mare, near which the ancient town of Stabia is

buried, and where Pliny the elder lost his life.

14. Vico.

15. Sorrento, and the plain formed evidently by subterraneous

fire.

16. Massa.

17. Island of Caprea.

18. The Grotto of Pausilipo, cut through the mountain anciently,

to make a road from Naples to Puzzole.

19. Point of Pausilipo.

20. The Gaiola, where there are ruins of ancient buildings,

supposed to have belonged to Lucullus.

21. The island of Nisida, evidently formed by explosion.

22. The Lazaret.

23. The Bagnoli.

24. Puzzole, or Pozzuolo.

25. The Solfaterra, anciently called Forum Vulcani: between the

Solfaterra and the lake of Agnano, are the boiling waters of

the Pisciarelli.

26. The New Mountain, formed by explosion in the year 1538; the

sand of the sea shore at its basis burning hot.

27. The lake of Agnano, supposed the crater of an ancient Volcano:

here are the baths called St. Germano, and the famous Grotto

del Cane.

28. Astruni, which has been evidently a Volcano, and is now a

Royal Chace, the crater being surrounded with a wall.

29. The Monte Gauro or Barbaro, anciently a Volcano.

30. The lake of Avernus, evidently the crater of an ancient

Volcano.

31. Lake of Fusaro.

32. Point of Misenum, from whence Pliny the elder discovered the

eruption of Vesuvius that proved fatal to him; near this

place, in a vault of an ancient building, is a constant

vapour, or _mofete_, of the same quality with that of the

Grotto del Cane.

33. The Mare Morto, the ancient Roman Harbour.

34. Baia; behind the castle are two evident craters of ancient

Volcanos.

35. Island of Procita.

36. A perfect cone and crater of a Volcano near Castiglione in the

island of Ischia.

37. Lava that ran into the sea in the last eruption on this

island, in the year 1301, or 1302: the place now called Le

Cremate.

38. Town of Ischia and castle.

39. Lake of Licola.

40. Lake of Patria.

41. The river Volturnus.

42. Capua.

43. Caserta.

44. Aversa.

45. Mataloni.

46. Acerra.

47. Island of Ischia, anciently called AEnaria, Inarime, and

Pithecusa.

48. The mountain of St. Nicola, anciently called Mons Epomeus,

supposed the remains of the principal Volcano of the island.

49. Castiglione, near which are the baths of Gurgitelli.

50. Lacco, near which is that very cold vapour called by the

natives _ventarole_.

51. Ancient city of Pompeii, where his Sicilian Majesty's

excavations are carrying on at present.

52. Rovigliano.

53. River of Sarno.

54. Cuma.

55. Hot sands and sudatory, called Nero's baths.

56. The Lucrine lake, supposed to have been here, and of which

there is still some little remain.

57. Villa Angelica, Sir William Hamilton's villa, from whence he

has made many of his observations upon Mount Vesuvius.

58. Cones formed by an ancient eruption called _viuli_; here are

likewise cold vapours called _ventaroli_.

59. High grounds, probably sections of cones of ancient Volcanos,

being all composed of _tufa_ and strata of loose pumice and

burnt matter.

60. Plain of the Campagna Felice, four or five feet of excellent

soil, under which are strata of burnt and erupted matter.

...... Marks the boundary of Sir William Hamilton's observations.

LETTER VI.[45]

To MATHEW MATY, M. D. Secretary to the Royal SOCIETY.

Naples, March 5, 1771.

Since I had the pleasure of sending you my letter, in which the nature

of the soil of more than twenty miles round this capital is described;

examining a deep hollow way cut by the rain waters into the outside cone

of the Solfaterra, I discovered, that a great part of the cone of that

ancient Volcano has been calcined by the hot vapours above described.

Pumice calcined seems to be the chief ingredient, of which several

specimens of (as I suppose) variegated unformed marble are composed, and

the beautiful variegations in them may have probably been occasioned by

the mineral vapours. As these specimens are now sent to the Royal

Society, you will see that these variegations are exactly of the same

pattern and colours as are met in many marbles and flowered alabasters;

and I cannot help thinking that they are marble or alabaster in its

infant state. What a proof we have here of the great changes the earth

we inhabit is subject to! What is now the Solfaterra, we have every

reason to suppose to have been originally thrown up by a subterraneous

explosion from the bottom of the sea. That it was long an existing

Volcano, is plain, from the ancient currents of lava, that are still to

be traced from its crater to the sea, from the strata of pumice and

erupted matter, of which its cone, in common with those of other

Volcanos, is composed, and from the testimony of many ancient authors.

Its cone in many parts has been calcined, and is still calcining, by the

hot vapours that are continually issuing forth through its pores; and

its nature is totally changed by this chemical process of Nature. In the

hollow way, where I made these remarks, you see the different strata of

erupted matter, that compose the cone, in some places perfectly

calcined, in others not, according as the vapours have found means to

insinuate themselves more or less.

A hollow way, cut by the rains on the back of the mountain on which part

of Naples is situated, towards Capo di China, shews that the mountain is

composed of strata of erupted matter, among which are large masses of

bitumen, in which its former state of fluidity is very visible. Here it

was I discovered that pumice stone is produced from bitumen, which I

believe has not yet been remarked. Some specimens shew evidently the

gradual process from bitumen to pumice: and you will observe that the

crystalline vitrifications, which are visible in the bitumen, suffer no

alteration, but remain in the same state in the perfect pumice as in the

bitumen.

In a piece of stratum, calcined from the outside of the Solfaterra, the

form and texture of the pumice stones is very discernible. In several

parts of the outside cone, this calcining operation is still carried on,

by the exhalation of constant very hot and damp vapours, impregnated

with salts, sulphur, alum, &c. Where the abovementioned vapours have not

operated, the strata of pumice and erupted matter, that compose the cone

of the Solfaterra, are like those of all the high grounds in its

neighbourhood, which I suppose to have been thrown up likewise by

explosion. I have seen here, half of a large piece of lava perfectly

calcined, whilst the other half out of the reach of the vapours has

been untouched; and in some pieces the centre seems to be already

converted into true marble.

The variegated specimens then, above described, are nothing more than

pumice and erupted matter, after having been acted upon in this manner

by the hot vapours; and if you consider the process, as I have traced

it, from bitumen to pumice, and from pumice to marble, you will think

with me, that it is difficult to determine the primitive state of the

many wonderful productions we see in Nature.

I found, in the _tufa_ of the mountain of Pausilipo, a fragment of lava:

one side I polished, to shew it to be true lava; the other shews the

signs of the _tufa_, with which it is incorporated. It has evidently

been rounded by friction, and most probably by rolling in the sea. Is it

not natural then to imagine that there must have been Volcanos near this

spot, long before the formation of the mountain of Pausilipo? This

little stone may perhaps raise in your mind such reflections as it did

in mine, relative to the great changes our globe suffers, and the

probability of its great antiquity.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Having reflected since upon this circumstance, I rather believe that

the weight of the atmosphere in bad weather, preventing the free

dissipation of the smoke, and collecting it over the crater, gives it

the appearance of being more considerable; whereas in fine weather the

smoke is dispersed soon after its emission. It is, however, the

common-received opinion at Naples (and from my own observation is, I

believe, well founded), that when Vesuvius grumbles, bad weather is at

hand. The sea of the Bay of Naples, being particularly agitated, and

swelling some hours before the arrival of a storm, may very probably

force itself into crevices, leading to the bowels of the Volcano, and,

by causing a new fermentation, produce those explosions and grumblings.

[2] These ashes destroy the leaves and fruit, and are greatly

detrimental to vegetation for a year or two; but are certainly of great

service to the land in general, and are among the principal causes of

that very great fertility which is remarkable in the neighbourhood of

Volcano's.

[3] In the subsequent eruptions of Vesuvius, I have constantly remarked

something of the same nature, as appears in my account of the great

eruption of 1767. I have found the same remark in many accounts of

former eruptions of Vesuvius: in the very curious one of the formation

of a new mountain near Puzzole, in 1538, (as may be seen in my letter to

Dr. Maty, Oct. 16, 1770[46],) the same observation is made. This

phaenomenon, is well worthy of a curious inquiry, which might give some

light into the theory of the earth, of which, I believe, we are very

ignorant.

[4] I am convinced, that it might be very practicable to divert the

course of a lava when in this state, by preparing a new bed for it, as

is practised with rivers. I was mentioning this idea at Catania in

Sicily, when I was assured, that it had been done with success during

the great eruption of Etna, in 1669; that the lava was directing its

course towards the walls of Catania, and advancing slowly like the

abovementioned, when they prepared a channel for it round the walls of

the town, and turned it into the sea; that a succession of men, covered

with sheep-skins wetted, were employed to cut through the tough flanks

of the lava, till they made a passage for that in the centre (which was

in perfect fusion) to disgorge itself into the channel prepared for it.

A book I have since met with gives the same account of this curious

operation; it is intituled, _Relatione del nuovo incendio fatto da

Mongibello 1669. Messina, Giuseppe Bisagni, 1670_. His Sicilian

Majesty's palace at Portici, and the valuable collection of antiquities

that have been recovered from beneath the destructive lava's of

Vesuvius, are in imminent danger of being overwhelmed again by the next

that shall take its course that way; whereas, by taking a level, cutting

away and raising ground, as occasion might require, the palace and

museum would, in all probability, be insured, at least against one

eruption; and, indeed, I once took the liberty of communicating this

idea to the King of Naples, who seemed to approve of it.

[5] The late Lord Morton was pleased to give these specimens to Dr.

Morris, who has made several chemical experiments on them, the result of

which will be communicated to the Royal Society.

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