FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO, AND LEAVING
THEM THE SECOND TIME.
CHAP. I.
PASSAGE FROM ULIETEA TO THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE
DISCOVERY OF HERVEY’S ISLAND, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED AT
MIDDLEBURG.
After leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west,
inclining to the south; to get clear of the tracks of former navigators,
and to get into the latitude of the islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam:
for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there
if I found it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I
generally lay to every night, lest we might pass any land in the dark.
Part of the 21st and 22d the wind blew from N. W., attended with
thunder, lightning, and rain; having a large swell from S. S. E. and S.,
which kept up for several days. An indication that no land was near us
in that direction.
On the 23d, at ten o’clock in the morning, land was seen from the
top-mast head, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by W. to
S. W. by S. We hauled up for it with the wind at S. E., and found it to
consist of two or three small islots, connected together by breakers
like most of the low isles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and
about six leagues in circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which
were many cocoa-nut trees. We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants;
and had reason to think there were none. The situation of this isle,
which is in the latitude of 19° 18ʹ south, longitude 158° 54ʹ west, is
not very different from that assigned by Mr. Dalrymple to La Dezena. But
as this is a point not easily determined, I named it Hervey’s Island, in
honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey of the Navy, one of the Lords of
the Admiralty, and now Earl of Bristol.
As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delay
which I could ill spare at this time, we resumed our course to the west;
and on the 25th we again began to use our sea-biscuit, the fruit, which
had served as a succedaneum, being all consumed; but our stock of fresh
pork still continued, each man having as much every day as was needful.
In our route to the west, we now and then saw men-of-war, and tropic
birds, and a small sea bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of
the isles; we therefore conjectured that we had passed some land at no
great distance. As we advanced to the west, the variation of the compass
gradually increased, so that on the 29th, being in the latitude of 21°
26ʹ south, longitude 170° 40ʹ west, it was 10° 45ʹ east.
At two o’clock P. M. on the 1st of October, we made the island of
Middleburg, bearing W. S. W., at six o’clock it extended from S. W. by
W. to N. W., distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen
in the direction of N. N. W. The wind being at S. S. E., I hauled to the
S., in order to get round the south end of the island before the
morning; but at eight o’clock a small island was seen lying off it, and
not knowing but they might be connected by a reef, the extent of which
we must be ignorant of, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At
day-break the next morning, we bore up for the S. W. side of Middleburg,
passing between it and the little isle above mentioned, where we found a
clear channel two miles broad.
After ranging the S. W. side of the greater isle, to about two-thirds of
its length, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without
seeing the least prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore
away for Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our
sails before we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another
aspect, seeming to offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled
the wind, and plied in under the island. In the mean time, two canoes,
each conducted by two or three men, came boldly along-side; and some of
them entered the ship without hesitation. This mark of confidence gave
me a good opinion of these islanders, and determined me to visit them if
possible. After making a few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to
in twenty-five fathoms’ water, and gravel bottom, at three cables length
from the shore. The highest land on the island bore S. E. by E., the
north point N. E. 1/2 E., and the west S. by W. 1/2 W., and the island
of Amsterdam extending from N. by W. 1/2 W. to N. W. 1/2 W. We had
scarcely got to an anchor before we were surrounded by a great number of
canoes full of people, who had brought with them cloth, and other
curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c. Several came on board;
among whom was one, who, by the authority he seemed to have over the
others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a present of a
hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with which he was
highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whose name
was Tioony.
Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony;
who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right a-breast
of the ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure
against the surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed
us on shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a
stick, or any other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their
pacific intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth,
matting, &c. to exchange for nails, that it was some time before we
could get room to land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than
receive; for many who could not get near the boats, threw into them,
over the others’ heads, whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without
either asking, or waiting to get any thing in return. At length the
chief caused them to open to the right and left, and make room for us to
land. He then conducted us up to his house, which was situated about
three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a fine lawn, and under
the shade of some shaddock trees. The situation was most delightful. In
front was the sea, and the ships at anchor; behind, and on each side,
were plantations, in which were some of the richest productions of
nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which we were seated, and the
people seated themselves in a circle round us on the outside. Having the
bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; and, in return the chief
directed three young women to sing a song, which they did with a very
good grace; and having made each of them a present, this immediately set
all the women in the circle a singing. Their songs were musical and
harmonious, and noways harsh or disagreeable. After sitting here some
time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the adjoining
plantations, where the chief had another house, into which we were
introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts, were set before us to eat, and a
bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of _eava_ for us to
drink. Pieces of the root were first offered to us to chew; but as we
excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by
others. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl;
then mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it
was properly strained for drinking, they made cups by folding of green
leaves, which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of
these filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the
manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The
bowl was, however, soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and
women partook. I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor
did two persons drink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh
liquor.
This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area
before it, on which we were seated. The whole was planted round with
fruit and other trees, whose spreading branches afforded an agreeable
shade, and whose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air.
Before we had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned on
board to dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table, but ate
nothing, which, as we had fresh pork roasted, was a little
extraordinary. After dinner we landed again, and were received by the
crowd as before. Mr. Forster, with his botanical party, and some of the
officers and gentlemen, walked into the country. Captain Furneaux and
myself were conducted to the chief’s house, where fruit and some greens,
which had been strewed, were set before us to eat. As we had but just
dined, it cannot be supposed we ate much; but Oedidee, and Omai, the man
on board the Adventure, did honour to the feast. After this we signified
our desire of seeing the country. Tioony very readily assented, and
conducted us through several plantations, which were laid out with great
judgment, and inclosed with very neat fences made of reeds. They were
all in very good order, and well planted with various fruit-trees,
roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us know the most of them
belonged to himself. Near some of the houses, and in the lanes that
divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and very large
fowls, which were the only domestic animals we saw; and these they did
not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day,
offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning; which
determined me to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam.
The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the
country, and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants; who seemed
to vie with each other in doing what they thought would give us
pleasure. The ships were crowded with people the whole day, trafficking
with those on board, in which the greatest good order was observed; and
I was sorry that the season of the year would not admit of my making a
longer stay with them. Early the next morning, while the ships were
getting under sail, I went ashore with Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster,
to take leave of the chief. He met us at the landing-place, and would
have conducted us to his house, had we not excused ourselves. We
therefore were seated on the grass, where we spent about half an hour in
the midst of a vast crowd of people. After making the chief a present,
consisting of various articles, and an assortment of garden seeds, I
gave him to understand that we were going away, at which he seemed not
at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in order to
accompany us on board; but seeing the Resolution under sail, he called
to a canoe to put along-side, into which he and his friends went, and
returned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to
exchange fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner
wholly to himself; but when on shore, I never saw him make the least
exchange.
CHAP. II.
THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT AMSTERDAM; A DESCRIPTION OF A PLACE OF
WORSHIP; AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THEY
REMAINED AT THAT ISLAND.
As soon as I was on board, we made sail down to Amsterdam. The people of
this isle were so little afraid of us, that some met us in three canoes
about midway between the two isles. They used their utmost efforts to
get on board, but without effect, as we did not shorten sail for them,
and the rope which we gave them broke. They then attempted to board the
Adventure, and met with the same disappointment. We ran along the S. W.
coast of Amsterdam at half a mile from shore, on which the sea broke in
a great surf. We had an opportunity, by the help of our glasses, to view
the face of the island, every part of which seemed to be laid out in
plantations. We observed the natives running along the shore, displaying
small white flags, which we took for ensigns of peace, and answered them
by hoisting a St. George’s ensign. Three men belonging to Middleburg,
who, by some means or other, had been left on board the Adventure, now
left her, and swam to the shore; not knowing that we intended to stop at
this isle, and having no inclination, as may be supposed, to go away
with us.
As soon as we opened the west side of the isle, we were met by several
canoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly alongside,
presented us with some _Eava_ root, and then came on board, without
farther ceremony, inviting us, by all the friendly signs they could
make, to go to their island, and pointing to the place where we should
anchor; at least so we understood them. After a few boards, we anchored
in Van Diemen’s Road, in eighteen fathoms’ water, little more than a
cable’s length from the breakers which line the coast. We carried out
the coasting anchor and cable to seaward, to keep the ship from tailing
on the rocks, in case of a shift of wind or a calm. This last anchor lay
in forty-seven fathoms’ water; so steep was the bank on which we
anchored. By this time we were crowded with people; some came off in
canoes, and others swam; but, like those of the other isle, brought
nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c., for which the seamen only
bartered away their cloaths. As it was probable they would soon feel the
effects of this kind of traffic, with a view to put a stop to it, and to
obtain the necessary refreshments, I gave orders that no sort of
curiosities should be purchased by any person whatever.
The good effect of this order was found in the morning. For when the
natives saw we would purchase nothing but eatables, they brought off
bananoes and cocoa-nuts in abundance, some fowls and pigs; all of which
they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth: even old rags of any
sort was enough for a pig or a fowl.
Matters being thus established, and proper persons appointed to trade
under the direction of the officers to prevent disputes, after breakfast
I landed, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of
the officers; having alone with us a chief, or person of some note,
whose name was Attago, who had attached himself to me, from the first
moment of his coming on board, which was before we anchored. I know not
how he came to discover that I was the commander; but, certain it is, he
was not long on deck before he singled me out from all the other
gentlemen, making me a present of some cloth, and other things he had
about him: and, as a greater testimony of friendship, we now exchanged
names; a custom which is practised at Otaheite, and the Society isles.
We were lucky, or rather we may thank the natives, for having anchored
before a narrow creek in the rocks which line the shore. To this creek
we were conducted by my friend Attago; and there we landed dry on the
beach, and within the breakers, in the face of a vast crowd of people,
who received us in the same friendly manner that those of Middleburg had
done.
As soon as we were landed, all the gentlemen set out into the country,
accompanied by some of the natives. But the most of them remained with
Captain Furneaux and me, who amused ourselves some time in distributing
presents amongst them; especially to such as Attago pointed out; which
were not many, but who, I afterwards found, were of superior rank to
himself. At this time, however, he seemed to be the principal person,
and to be obeyed as such. After we had spent some time on the beach, as
we complained of the heat, Attago immediately conducted and seated us
under the shade of a tree, ordering the people to form a circle round
us. This they did, and never once attempted to push themselves upon us
like the Otaheiteans.
After sitting here some time, and distributing some presents to those
about us, we signified our desire to see the country. The chief
immediately took the hint, and conducted us along a lane that led to an
open green, on the one side of which was a house of worship built on a
mount that had been raised by the hand of man, about sixteen or eighteen
feet above the common level. It had an oblong figure, and was inclosed
by a wall or parapet of stone, about three feet in height. From this
wall the mount rose with a gentle slope, and was covered with a green
turf. On the top of it stood the house, which had the same figure as the
mount, about twenty feet in length and fourteen or sixteen broad. As
soon as we came before the place, every one seated himself on the green,
about fifty or sixty yards from the front of the house. Presently came
three elderly men; who seated themselves between us and it, and began a
speech, which I understood to be a prayer, it being wholly directed to
the house. This lasted about ten minutes; and then the priests, for such
I took them to be, came and sat down along with us, when we made them
presents of such things as were about us. Having then made signs to them
that we wanted to view the premises, my friend Attago immediately got
up, and going with us, without showing the least backwardness, gave us
full liberty to examine every part of it.
In the front were two stone steps leading to the top of the wall; from
this the ascent to the house was easy, round which was a fine gravel
walk. The house was built, in all respects, like to their common
dwelling-houses; that is, with posts and rafters, and covered with palm
thatch. The eaves came down within about three feet of the ground, which
space was filled up with strong matting made of palm leaves as a wall.
The floor of the house was laid with fine gravel, except in the middle,
where there was an oblong square of blue pebbles, raised about six
inches higher than the floor. At one corner of the house stood an image
rudely carved in wood, and on one side lay another; each about two feet
in length. I, who had no intention to offend either them or their gods,
did not so much as touch them, but asked Attago, as well as I could, if
they were _Eatuas_ or gods. Whether he understood me or no I cannot say;
but he immediately turned them over and over, in as rough a manner as he
would have done any other log of wood, which convinced me that they were
not there as representatives of the Divinity. I was curious to know if
the dead were interred there, and asked Attago several questions
relative thereto; but I was not sure that he understood me; at least I
did not understand the answers he made, well enough to satisfy my
inquiries. For the reader must know that, at our first coming among
these people, we hardly could understand a word they said: even my
Otaheitean youth, and the man on board the Adventure, were equally at a
loss: but more of this bye and by. Before we quitted the house, we
thought it necessary to make an offering at the altar. Accordingly we
laid down upon the blue pebbles, some medals, nails, and several other
things; which we had no sooner done than my friend Attago took them up,
and put them in his pocket. The stones with which the walls were made
that enclosed this mount, were some of them nine or ten feet by four,
and about six inches thick. It is difficult to conceive how they can cut
such stones out of the coral rocks.
This mount stood in a kind of grove open only on the side which fronted
the high road, and the green on which the people were seated. At this
green or open place, was a junction of five roads, two or three of which
appeared to be very public ones. The groves were composed of several
sorts of trees. Among others was the _Etoa_ tree, as it is called at
Otaheite, of which are made clubs, &c., and a kind of low palm, which is
very common in the northern parts of New Holland.
After we had done examining this place of worship, which in their
language is called A-fia-touca, we desired to return; but, instead of
conducting us to the water-side, as we expected, they struck into a road
leading into the country. This road which was about sixteen feet broad,
and as level as a bowling-green, seemed to be a very public one; there
being many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all
enclosed on each side, with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from
the scorching sun by fruit trees. I thought I was transported into the
most fertile plains in Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground;
the roads occupied no more space than was absolutely necessary; the
fences did not take up above four inches each; and even this was not
wholly lost, for in many were planted some useful trees or plants. It
was every where the same; change of place altered not the scene. Nature,
assisted by a little art, no where appears in more splendor than at this
isle. In these delightful walks, we met numbers of people; some
travelling down to the ships with their burdens of fruit; others
returning back empty. They all gave us the road by turning either to the
right or left, and sitting down, or standing, with their backs to the
fences, till we had passed.
At several of the cross roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads,
were generally _Afiatoucas_, such as already described; with this
difference, the mounts were pallisadoed round, instead of a stone wall.
At length, after walking several miles, we came to one larger than
common; near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief in our
company. At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly
did, and were treated with fruit, &c.
We were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests
began a speech or prayer, which was first directed to the _Afiatouca_,
and then to me, and alternately. When he addressed me, he paused at
every sentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however, did not
understand one single word he said. At times, the old gentleman seemed
to be at a loss what to say; or perhaps his memory failed him; for,
every now and then, he was prompted by one of the other priests who sat
by him. Both during this prayer and the former one, the people were
silent, but not attentive. At this last place we made but a short stay.
Our guides conducted us down to our boat, and we returned with Attago to
our ship to dinner. We had no sooner got on board, than an old gentleman
came along-side, who, I understood from Attago, was some king or great
man. He was, accordingly, ushered on board; when I presented him with
such things as he most valued (being the only method to make him my
friend), and seated him at table to dinner. We now saw that he was a man
of consequence; for Attago would not sit down and eat before him, but
got to the other end of the table; and, as the old chief was almost
blind, he sat there, and eat with his back towards him. After the old
man had eaten a bit of fish and drank two glasses of wine, he returned
ashore. As soon as Attago had seen him out of the ship, he came and took
his place at table, finished his dinner, and drank two glasses of wine.
When dinner was over, we all went ashore, where we found the old chief,
who presented me with a hog; and he and some others, took a walk with us
into the country.
Before we set out, I happened to go down with Attago to the landing
place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laughable, though distressed,
situation. The boats which brought us on shore, not being able to get
near the landing place for want of a sufficient depth of water; he
pulled off his shoes and stockings to walk through, and as soon as he
got on dry land, he put them down betwixt his legs to put on again, but
they were instantly snatched away by a person behind him, who
immediately mixed with the crowd. It was impossible for him to follow
the man bare-footed over the sharp coral rocks, which compose the shore,
without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat was put back to the
ship, his companions had each made his way through the crowd, and he
left in this condition alone. Attago soon found out the thief, recovered
his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. Our route into the
country was by the first mentioned _Afiatouca_, before which we again
seated ourselves, but had no prayers, although the old priest was with
us. Our stay here was but short. The old chief, probably thinking that
we might want water on board, conducted us to a plantation hard by, and
shewed us a pool of fresh water, though we had not made the least
enquiry after any. I believe this to be the same that Tasman calls the
_washing-place_ for the king and his nobles.
From hence we were conducted down to the shore of Maria bay, or N. E.
side of the isle; where, in a boat-house, was shewn to us a fine large
double canoe not yet launched. The old chief did not fail to make us
sensible it belonged to himself. Night now approaching, we took leave of
him and returned on board, being conducted by Attago down to the water
side.
Mr. Forster and his party spent the day in the country botanising; and
several of the officers were out shooting. All of them were very civilly
treated by the natives. We had also a brisk trade for bananoes,
cocoa-nuts, yams, pigs, and fowls; all of which were procured for nails,
and pieces of cloth. A boat from each ship was employed trading ashore,
and bringing off their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was
generally in a short time. By this method we got cheaper, and with less
trouble, a good quantity of fruit, as well as other refreshments, from
people who had no canoes to carry them off to the ships.
Pretty early in the morning on the 5th, my friend brought me a hog and
some fruit; for which I gave him a hatchet, a sheet, and some red cloth.
The pinnace was sent ashore to trade as usual; but soon returned. The
officer informed me that the natives were for taking every thing out of
the boat, and, in other respects, were very troublesome. The day before,
they stole the grappling at the time the boat was riding by it, and
carried it off undiscovered. I now judged it necessary to have a guard
on shore, to protect the boats and people whose business required their
being there; and accordingly sent the marines, under the command of
Lieutenant Edgcumbe. Soon after, I went myself, with my friend Attago,
Captain Furneaux, and several of the gentlemen. At landing, we found the
old chief, who presented me with a pig. After this, Captain Furneaux and
I took a walk into the country with Mr. Hodges, to make drawings of such
places and things as were most interesting. When this was done, we
returned on board to dinner, with my friend and two other chiefs; one of
which sent a hog on board the Adventure for Captain Furneaux, some hours
before, without stipulating for any return; the only instance of this
kind.—My friend took care to put me in mind of the pig the old king gave
me in the morning; for which I now gave a chequed shirt and a piece of
red cloth. I had tied them up for him to carry ashore; but with this he
was not satisfied. He wanted to have them put on him; which was no
sooner done, than he went on deck, and shewed himself to all his
countrymen. He had done the same thing in the morning with the sheet I
gave him. In the evening we all went on shore again, where we found the
old king, who took to himself every thing my friend and the others had
got.
The different trading parties were so successful to-day as to procure
for both ships a tolerably good supply of refreshments. In consequence
of which, I, the next morning, gave every one leave to purchase what
curiosities and other things they pleased. After this, it was
astonishing to see with what eagerness every one caught at every thing
he saw. It even went so far as to become the ridicule of the natives,
who offered pieces of sticks and stones to exchange. One waggish boy
took a piece of human excrement on the end of a stick, and held it out
to every one he met with.
This day a man got into the master’s cabin, through the outside scuttle,
and took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as he
was getting out into his canoe, and pursued by one of our boats, which
obliged him to quit the canoe and take to the water. The people in the
boat made several attempts to lay hold on him; but he as often dived
under the boat, and at last, having unshipped the rudder, which rendered
her ungovernable, by this means he got clear off. Some other very daring
thefts were committed at the landing place. One fellow took a seaman’s
jacket out of the boat, and carried it off, in spite of all that our
people in her could do. Till he was both pursued and fired at by them,
he would not part with it; nor would he have done it then, had not his
landing been intercepted by some of us, who were on shore. The rest of
the natives, who were very numerous, took very little notice of the
whole transaction; nor were they the least alarmed when the man was
fired at.
My friend Attago having visited me again next morning, as usual brought
with him a hog, and assisted me in purchasing several more. Afterwards
we went a-shore; visited the old king, with whom we staid till noon;
then returned on board to dinner, with Attago, who never once left me.
Intending to sail the next morning, I made up a present for the old
king, and carried it on shore in the evening. As soon as I landed, I was
told by the officers who were on shore, that a far greater man than any
we had yet seen was come to pay us a visit. Mr. Pickersgill informed me
that he had seen him in the country, and found that he was a man of some
consequence, by the extraordinary respect paid him by the people. Some,
when they approached him, fell on their faces, and put their heads
between their feet; and no one durst pass him without permission. Mr.
Pickersgill, and another of the gentlemen, took hold of his arms, and
conducted him down to the landing-place, where I found him seated with
so much sullen and stupid gravity, that notwithstanding what had been
told me, I really took him for an idiot, whom the people, from some
superstitious notions, were ready to worship. I saluted and spoke to
him; but he neither answered, nor took the least notice of me; nor did
he alter a single feature in his countenance. This confirmed me in my
opinion, and I was just going to leave him, when one of the natives, an
intelligent youth, undertook to undeceive me; which he did in such a
manner as left me no room to doubt that he was the king, or principal
man on the island. Accordingly I made him the present I intended for the
old chief, which consisted of a shirt, an ax, a piece of red cloth, a
looking-glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these things,
or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid down by him,
without losing a bit of his gravity, speaking one word, or turning his
head either to the right or left; sitting the whole time like a statue;
in which situation I left him, to return on board; and he soon after
retired. I had not been long on board before word was brought me that a
quantity of provisions had came from this chief. A boat was sent to
bring it from the shore; and it consisted of about twenty baskets of
roasted bananoes, sour bread and yams, and a roasted pig of about twenty
pounds weight. Mr. Edgcumbe and his party were just reimbarking, when
these were brought to the water-side, and the bearers said it was a
present from the _Areeke_, that is the king of the island, to the
_Areeke_ of the ship. After this I was no longer to doubt the dignity of
this sullen chief.
Early in the morning of the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, I went
ashore with Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, in order to make some
return to the king for his last night’s present. We no sooner landed
than we found Attago, of whom we enquired for the king, whose name was
Kohaghee-too-Fallangou. He accordingly undertook to conduct us to him;
but whether he mistook the man we wanted, or was ignorant where he was,
I know not. Certain it is, that he took us a wrong road, in which he had
not gone far before he stopped; and after some little conversation
between him and another man, we returned back, and presently after, the
king appeared with very few attendants. As soon as Attago saw him
coming, he sat down under a tree, and desired us to do the same. The
king seated himself on a rising ground, about twelve or fifteen yards
from us: here we sat facing one another for some minutes. I waited for
Attago to shew us the way; but seeing he did not rise, Captain Furneaux
and I got up, went and saluted the king, and sat down by him. We then
presented him with a white shirt (which we put on his back), a few yards
of red cloth, a brass kettle, a saw, two large spikes, three looking
glasses, a dozen of medals, and some strings of beads. All this time he
sat with the same sullen stupid gravity as the day before: he even did
not seem to see or know what we were about; his arms appeared immoveable
at his sides; he did not so much as raise them when we put on the shirt.
I told him, both by words and signs, that we were going to leave his
island; he scarcely made the least answer to this, or any other thing,
we either said or did. We, therefore, got up and took leave; but I yet
remained near him, to observe his actions. Soon after, he entered into
conversation with Attago and an old woman, whom we took to be his
mother. I did not understand any part of the conversation; it however
made him laugh, in spite of his assumed gravity. I say assumed, because
it exceeded every thing of the kind I ever saw; and therefore think it
could not be his real disposition (unless he was an idiot indeed), as
these islanders, like all the others we had lately visited, have a great
deal of levity; and he was in the prime of life. At last, he rose up,
and retired with his mother and two or three more.
Attago conducted us to another circle, where were seated the aged chief
and several respectable old persons of both sexes; among whom was the
priest, who was generally in company with this chief. We observed that
this reverend father could walk very well in a morning; but, in an
evening, was obliged to be led home by two people. By this we concluded,
that the juice of the pepper-root had the same effect upon him, that
wine and other strong liquors have on Europeans who drink a large
portion of them. It is very certain, that these old people seldom sat
down without preparing a bowl of this liquor; which is done in the same
manner as at Ulietea. We, however, must do them the justice to believe,
that it was meant to treat us: nevertheless, the greatest part, if not
the whole, generally fell to their share. I was not well prepared to
take leave of this chief, having exhausted almost all our store on the
other. However, after rummaging our pockets, and treasury bag, which was
always carried with me wherever I went, we made up a tolerable present,
both for him and his friends. This old chief had an air of dignity about
him that commanded respect, which the other had not. He was grave, but
not sullen; would crack a joke, talk on indifferent subjects, and
endeavour to understand us and be understood himself. During this visit,
the old priest repeated a short prayer or speech, the purport of which
we did not understand. Indeed he would frequently, at other times, break
out in prayer; but I never saw any attention paid to him by any one
present. After a stay of near two hours, we took leave, and returned on
board, with Attago and two or three more friends, who staid and
breakfasted with us; after which they were dismissed, loaded with
presents.
Attago was very importunate with me to return again to this isle, and to
bring with me cloth, axes, nails, &c. &c., telling me that I should have
hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, in abundance. He particularly desired me,
more than once, to bring him such a suit of clothes as I had on, which
was my uniform. This good-natured islander was very serviceable to me,
on many occasions, during our short stay. He constantly came on board
every morning soon after it was light, and never quitted us till the
evening. He was always ready, either on board or on shore, to do me all
the service in his power: his fidelity was rewarded at a small expence;
and I found my account in having such a friend.
In heaving in the coasting cable, it parted in the middle of its length,
being chaffed by the rocks. By this accident we lost the other half,
together with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, without any
buoy to it. The best bower cable suffered also by the rocks; by which a
judgment may be formed of this anchorage. At ten o’clock we got under
sail; but as our decks were much encumbered with fruit, &c. we kept
plying under the land till they were cleared. The supplies we got at
this isle were about one hundred and fifty pigs, twice that number of
fowls, as many bananoes and cocoa-nuts as we could find room for, with a
few yams; and had our stay been longer, we, no doubt, might have got a
great deal more. This, in some degree, shews the fertility of the
island, of which, together with the neighbouring one of Middleburg, I
shall now give a more particular account.
CHAP. III.
A DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS AND THEIR PRODUCE, WITH THE CULTIVATION,
HOUSES, CANOES, NAVIGATION, MANUFACTURES, WEAPONS, CUSTOMS, GOVERNMENT,
RELIGION, AND LANGUAGE OF THE INHABITANTS.
These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman in January 1642-3;
and, by him, called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called
by the natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-oo-we. They are situated
between the latitude of 21° 29ʹ and 21° 3ʹ south, and between the
longitude of 174° 40ʹ and 175° 15ʹ west, deduced from observations made
on the spot.
Middleburg, or Eaoowe, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues
in circuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen twelve leagues. The
skirts of this isle are mostly taken up in the plantations; the S. W.
and N. W. sides especially. The interior parts are but little
cultivated, though very fit for cultivation. However, the want of it
added greatly to the beauty of the isle; for here are, agreeably
dispersed, groves of cocoa-nut and other trees, lawns covered with thick
grass, here and there plantations, and paths leading to every part of
the island in such beautiful disorder, as greatly enlivens the prospect.
The anchorage, which I named English Road, (being the first who anchored
there), is on the N. W. side, in latitude 21° 20ʹ 30ʺ south. The bearing
we took when at anchor, already mentioned, together with the chart, will
be more than sufficient to find this anchorage. The bank is a coarse
sand; it extends two miles from the land, and on it there is from twenty
to forty fathoms water. The small creek before it affords convenient
landing for boats at all times of the tide; which here, as well as at
the other islands, rises about four or five feet, and is high water on
the full and change days about seven o’clock. The island of Tongatabu is
shaped something like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof
are seven leagues each, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the
direction of E. S. E. and W. N. W. is nearly all of an equal height,
rather low, not exceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the
sea. This island, and also that of Eaoowe, is guarded from the sea by a
reef of coral rocks extending out from the shore one hundred fathoms
more or less. On this reef the force of the sea is spent before it
reaches the land or shore. Indeed, this is, in some measure, the
situation of all the Tropical Isles in this sea that I have seen; and
thus nature has effectually secured them from the encroachments of the
sea, though many of them are mere points when compared to this vast
ocean. Van Diemen’s Road, where we anchored, is under the north-west
part of the island, between the most northern and western points. There
lies a reef of rocks without it, bearing N. W. by W. over which the sea
breaks continually. The bank does not extend more than three cables
lengths from the shore; without that, is an unfathomable depth. The loss
of an anchor, and the damage our cables sustained, are sufficient proofs
that the bottom is none of the best.
On the east side of the north point of the island (as Mr. Gilbert, whom
I sent to survey the parts, informed me,) is a very snug harbour, of one
mile or more in extent, wherein is seven, eight, and ten fathoms water,
with a clean sandy bottom. The channel, by which he went in and out,
lies close to the point, and has only three fathoms water; but he
believes that farther to the N. E. is a channel with a much greater
depth, which he had not time to examine. Indeed, it would have taken up
far more time than I could spare to have surveyed these parts minutely;
as there lie a number of small islets and reefs of rocks along the N. E.
side of the island, which seemed to extend to the N. E. farther than the
eye could reach. The island of Amsterdam or Tongatabu is wholly laid out
in plantations, in which are planted some of the richest productions of
nature; such as bread-fruit, cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananoes,
shaddocks, yams, and some other roots, sugar cane, and a fruit like a
nectarine, called by them _Fighega_, and at Otaheite _Ahuya_: in short,
here are most of the articles which the Society Islands produce, besides
some which they have not. Mr. Forster tells me, that he not only found
the same plants here that are at Otaheite, and the neighbouring isles,
but several others which are not to be met with there. And I probably
have added to their stock of vegetables, by leaving with them an
assortment of garden seeds, pulse, &c. Bread-fruit here, as well as at
all the other isles, was not in season; nor was this the time for roots
and shaddocks. We got the latter only at Middleburg.
The produce and cultivation of this isle is the same as at Amsterdam;
with this difference, that a part only of the former is cultivated,
whereas the whole of the latter is. The lanes or roads necessary for
travelling, are laid out in so judicious a manner as to open a free and
easy communication from one part of the island to the other. Here are no
towns or villages, most of the houses are built in the plantations, with
no other order than what conveniency requires; they are neatly
constructed; but do not exceed those in the other isles. The materials
of which they are built are the same; and some little variation in the
disposition of the framing is all the difference in their construction.
The floor is a little raised, and covered with thick strong mats; the
same sort of matting serves to inclose them on the windward side, the
other being open. They have little areas before the most of them, which
are generally planted round with trees, or shrubs of ornament, whose
fragrancy perfumes the very air in which they breathe. Their household
furniture consists of a few wooden platters, cocoa-nut shells, and some
neat wooden-pillows shaped like four-footed stools or forms. Their
common clothing, with the addition of a mat, serves them for bedding. We
got from them two or three earthen vessels, which were all we saw among
them. One was in the shape of a bomb-shell, with two holes in it
opposite each other; the others were like pipkins, containing about five
or six pints, and had been in use on the fire. I am of opinion they are
the manufacture of some other isle; for, if they were of their own, we
ought to have seen more of them. Nor am I to suppose they came from
Tasman’s ships; the time is too long for brittle vessels like these to
be preserved.
We saw no other domestic animals amongst them, but hogs and fowls. The
former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea; but the
latter are far superior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and
their flesh equally good, if not better. We saw no dogs, and believe
they have none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those we had on
board. My friend Attago was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one
from New Zealand, the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is
_kooree_ or _gooree_, the same as at New Zealand, which shews that they
are not wholly strangers to them. We saw no rats in these isles, nor any
other wild quadrupeds, except small lizards. The land birds are pigeons,
turtle-doves, parrots, parroquets, owls, bald couts with a blue plumage,
a variety of small birds, and large bats in abundance. The produce of
the sea we know but little of; it is reasonable to suppose that the same
sorts of fish are found here as at the other isles. Their fishing
instruments are the same; that is, hooks made of mother of pearl, gigs
with two, three, or more prongs, and nets made of a very fine thread,
with the meshes wrought exactly like ours. But nothing can be a more
demonstrative evidence of their ingenuity than the construction and make
of their canoes, which, in point of neatness and workmanship, exceed
every thing of this kind we saw in this sea. They are built of several
pieces sewed together with bandage, in so neat a manner, that on the
outside it is difficult to see the joints. All the fastenings are on the
inside, and pass through kants or ridges, which are wrought on the edges
and ends of the several boards which compose the vessel, for that
purpose. They are of two kinds, viz. double and single. The single ones
are from twenty to thirty feet long, and about twenty or twenty-two
inches broad in the middle; the stern terminates in a point, and the
head something like the point of a wedge. At each end is a kind of deck,
for about one third part of the whole length, and open in the middle. In
some the middle of the deck is decorated with a row of white shells,
stuck on little pegs wrought out of the same piece which composes it.
These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes navigated
with sails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of which are
short, and broadest in the middle. The two vessels which compose the
double canoe are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five
broad in the middle; and each end terminates nearly in a point; so that
the body or hull differs a little in construction from the single canoe;
but is put together exactly in the same manner; these having a rising in
the middle round the open part, in the form of a long trough, which is
made of boards, closely fitted together, and well secured to the body of
the vessel. Two such vessels are fastened to, and parallel to each
other, about six or seven feet asunder, by strong cross beams, secured
by bandages to the upper part of the risings above mentioned. Over these
beams and others, which are supported by stanchions fixed on the bodies
of the canoes, is laid a boarded platform. All the parts which compose
the double canoe, are made as strong and light as the nature of the work
will admit, and may be immerged in water to the very platform, without
being in danger of filling. Nor is it possible, under any circumstance
whatever, for them to sink, so long as they hold together. Thus they are
not only made vessels of burden, but fit for distant navigation. They
are rigged with one mast, which steps upon the platform, and can easily
be raised or taken down; and are sailed with a latteen-sail, or
triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little bent or
crooked. The sail is made of mats; the rope they make use of is laid
exactly like ours, and some of it is four or five inch. On the platform
is built a little shed or hut, which screens the crew from the sun and
weather, and serves for other purposes. They also carry a moveable
fire-hearth, which is a square, but shallow, trough of wood, filled with
stones. The way into the hold of the canoe is from off the platform,
down a sort of uncovered hatchway, in which they stand to bail out the
water. I think these vessels are navigated either end foremost, and
that, in changing tacks, they have only occasion to shift or jib round
the sail; but of this I was not certain, as I had not then seen any
under sail, or with the mast and sail an end, but what were a
considerable distance from us.
[Illustration: _Boats of the Friendly Isles._]
Their working tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c. as at the other
islands. When we view the work which is performed with these tools, we
are struck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman.
Their knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to
teach them to prefer nails to beads, and such trifles; some, but very
few, would exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets,
shirts, cloth, and even rags, were in more esteem than the best
edge-tool we could give them; consequently they got but few axes from us
but what were given as presents. But if we include the nails which were
given by the officers and crews of both ships for curiosities, &c. with
those given for refreshments, they cannot have got less than five
hundred weight, great and small. The only piece of iron we saw among
them was a small broad awl, which had been made of a nail.
Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans; and their colour
is that of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than amongst the
inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. Some of our gentlemen
were of opinion these were a much handsomer race; others maintained a
contrary opinion, of which number I was one. Be this as it may, they
have a good shape, and regular features, and are active, brisk, and
lively. The women, in particular, are the merriest creatures I ever met
with, and will keep chattering by one’s side, without the least
invitation, or considering whether they are understood, provided one
does but seem pleased with them. In general they appeared to be modest;
although there was no want of those of a different stamp; and as we had
yet some venereal complaints on board, I took all possible care to
prevent the disorder being communicated to them. Upon most occasions
they shewed a strong propensity to pilfering; in which they were full as
expert as the Otaheiteans.
Their hair in general is black, but more especially that of the women.
Different colours were found among the men, sometimes on the same head,
caused by something they put upon it, which stains it white, red, and
blue. Both sexes wear it short; I saw but two exceptions to this custom,
and the most of them combed it upwards. Many of the boys had it cut very
close, except a single lock on the top of the head, and a small quantity
on each side. The men cut or shave their beards quite close, which
operation is performed with two shells. They have fine eyes, and in
general good teeth, even to an advanced age. The custom of _tattowing_
or puncturing the skin prevails. The men are _tattowed_ from the middle
of the thigh to above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and
fingers; and there but very slightly.
The dress of both sexes consists of a piece of cloth, or matting,
wrapped round the waist, and hanging down below the knees. From the
waist, upwards, they are generally naked; and it seemed to be a custom
to anoint these parts every morning. My friend Attago never failed to do
it; but whether out of respect to his friend, or from custom, I will not
pretend to say; though I rather think from the latter, as he was not
singular in the practice.
Their ornaments are, amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells,
and beads of mother of pearl, tortoise-shell, &c., which are worn by
both sexes. The women also wear on their fingers neat rings made of
tortoise-shell, and pieces in their ears about the size of a small
quill; but ear-ornaments are not commonly worn, though all have their
ears pierced. They have also a curious apron made of the outside fibres
of the cocoa-nut shell, and composed of a number of small pieces sewed
together in such a manner as to form stars, half-moons, little squares,
&c. It is studded with beads of shells, and covered with red feathers,
so as to have a pleasing effect. They make the same kind of cloth, and
of the same materials, as at Otaheite; though they have not such a
variety, nor do they make any so fine; but as they have a method of
glazing it, it is more durable, and will resist rain for some time,
which Otaheite cloth will not. Their colours are black, brown, purple,
yellow, and red; all made from vegetables. They make various sorts of
matting; some of a very fine texture, which is generally used for
clothing; and the thick and stronger sort serves to sleep on, and to
make sails for their canoes, &c. Among other useful utensils, they have
various sorts of baskets; some made of the same materials as their mats;
and others of the twisted fibres of cocoa-nuts. These are not only
durable, but beautiful; being generally composed of different colours,
and studded with beads made of shells or bones. They have many little
nick-nacks amongst them; which shows that they neither want taste to
design, nor skill to execute whatever they take in hand.
How these people amuse themselves in their leisure hours, I cannot say,
as we are but little acquainted with their diversions. The women
frequently entertained us with songs, in a manner which was agreeable
enough. They accompany the music by snapping their fingers, so as to
keep time to it. Not only their voices but their music was very
harmonious; and they have a considerable compass in their notes. I saw
but two musical instruments amongst them. One was a large flute made of
a piece of bamboo, which they fill with their noses as at Otaheite; but
these have four holes or stops, whereas those of Otaheite have only two.
The other was composed of ten or eleven small reeds of unequal lengths,
bound together side by side, as the Doric pipe of the ancients is said
to have been; and the open ends of the reeds into which they blow with
their mouths are of equal height, or in a line. They have also a drum,
which, without any impropriety, may be compared to an hollow log of
wood. The one I saw was five feet six inches long, and thirty inches in
girt, and had a slit in it, from the one end to the other, about three
inches wide, by means of which it had been hollowed out. They beat on
the side of this log with two drum-sticks, and produce an hollow sound,
not quite so musical as that of an empty cask.
The common method of saluting one another is by touching or meeting
noses, as is done in New Zealand; and their sign of peace to strangers
is the displaying a white flag or flags; at least such were displayed to
us, when we first drew near the shore. But the people who came first on
board brought with them some of the pepper-plant, and sent it before
them into the ship; a stronger sign of friendship than which one could
not wish for. From their unsuspicious manner of coming on board, and of
receiving us at first on shore, I am of opinion, they are seldom
disturbed by either foreign or domestic troubles. They are, however, not
unprovided with very formidable weapons; such as clubs and spears, made
of hard wood, also bows and arrows. The clubs are from three to five
feet in length, and of various shapes; their bows and arrows are but
indifferent: the former being very slight, and the latter only made of a
slender reed pointed with hard wood. Some of their spears have many
barbs, and must be very dangerous weapons where they take effect. On the
inside of the bow is a groove in which is put the arrow; from which it
should seem that they use but one.
They have a singular custom of putting every thing you give them to
their heads, by way of thanks, as we conjectured. This manner of paying
a compliment is taught them from their very infancy; for when we gave
things to little children, the mother lifted up the child’s hand to its
head. They also used this custom in their exchanges with us: whatever we
gave them for their goods, was always applied to the head, just as if it
had been given them for nothing. Sometimes they would look at our goods,
and, if not approved, return them back; but whenever they applied them
to the head, the bargain was infallibly struck. When I had made a
present to the chief of any thing curious, I frequently saw it handed
from one to another; and every one, into whose hands it came, put it to
the head. Very often the women would take hold of my hand, kiss it, and
lift it to their heads. From all this it should seem, that this custom,
which, they call _fagafatie_, has various significations according as it
is applied; all however complimentary.
It must be observed that the sullen chief or king did not pay me any of
these compliments for the presents I made him.
A still more singular custom prevails in these isles: we observed that
the greater part of the people, both men and women, had lost one or both
their little fingers.[3] We endeavoured, but in vain, to find out the
reason of this mutilation; for no one would take any pains to inform us.
It was neither peculiar to rank, age, or sex; nor is it done at any
certain age, as I saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been
just made; and, except some young children, we found few who had both
hands perfect. As it was more common among the aged than the young, some
of us were of opinion that it was occasioned by the death of their
parents, or some other near relation. But Mr. Wales one day met with a
man, whose hands were both perfect, of such an advanced age, that it was
hardly possible his parents could be living. They also burn or make
incisions in their cheeks, near the cheek-bone. The reason of this was
equally unknown to us. In some, the wounds were quite fresh; in others,
they could only be known by the scars, or colour of the skin. I saw
neither sick nor lame amongst them: all appeared healthy, strong, and
vigorous; a proof of the goodness of the climate in which they live.
I have frequently mentioned a king, which implies the government being
in a single person, without knowing for certain whether it is so or not.
Such an one was, however, pointed out to us; and we had no reason to
doubt it. From this, and other circumstances, I am of opinion that the
government is much like that of Otaheite; that is, in a king or great
chief, who is here called Areeke, with other chiefs under him, who are
lords of certain districts, and perhaps sole proprieters, to whom the
people seem to pay great obedience. I also observed a third rank, who
had not a little authority over the common people: my friend Attago was
one of these. I am of opinion that all the land on _Tongatabu_ is
private property, and that there are here, as at Otaheite, a set of
people, who are servants or slaves, and have no property in land. It is
unreasonable to suppose every thing in common in a country so highly
cultivated as this. Interest being the greatest spring which animates
the hand of industry, few would toil in cultivating and planting the
land, if they did not expect to reap the fruit of their labour: were it
otherwise, the industrious man would be in a worse state than the idle
sluggard. I frequently saw parties of six, eight, or ten people, bring
down to the landing-place fruit and other things to dispose of, where
one person, a man or woman, superintended the sale of the whole; no
exchanges were made but with his or her consent; and, whatever we gave
in exchange, was always given them, which, I think, plainly showed them
to be the owners of the goods, and the others no more than servants.
Though benevolent nature has been very bountiful to these isles, it
cannot be said that the inhabitants are wholly exempt from the curse of
our forefathers: part of their bread must be earned with the sweat of
their brows. The high state of cultivation their lands are in must have
cost them immense labour. This is now amply rewarded by the great
produce, of which every one seems to partake. No one wants the common
necessaries of life: joy and contentment are painted in every face.
Indeed, it can hardly be otherwise: an easy freedom prevails among all
ranks of people: they feel no wants which they do not enjoy the means of
gratifying; and they live in a clime where the painful extremes of heat
and cold are equally unknown. If nature has been wanting in any thing,
it is in the article of fresh water, which, as it is shut up in the
bowels of the earth, they are obliged to dig for. A running stream was
not seen, and but one well, at Amsterdam. At Middleburg, we saw no water
but what the natives had in vessels; but as it was sweet and cool, I had
no doubt of its being taken up upon the island, and, probably, not far
from the spot where I saw it.
So little do we know of their religion, that I hardly dare mention it.
The buildings called _Afiatoucas_, before mentioned, are undoubtedly set
apart for this purpose. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion, that they
were merely burying-places. I can only say, from my own knowledge, that
they are places to which particular persons directed set speeches, which
I understood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my
opinion with that of others, I was inclined to think that they are set
apart to be both temples and burying-places, as at Otaheite, or even in
Europe. But I have no idea of the images being idols; not only from what
I saw myself, but from Mr. Wales’s informing me that they set one of
them up, for him and others to shoot at.
One circumstance showed that these _Afiatoucas_ were frequently resorted
to, for one purpose or other; the areas, or open places, before them,
being covered with a green sod, the grass on which was very short. This
did not appear to have been cut, or reduced by the hand of man, but to
have been prevented in its growth by being often trod, or sat upon.
It cannot be supposed that we could know much, either of their civil or
religious policy, in so short a time as four or five days, especially as
we understood but little of their language: even the two islanders we
had on board could not at first understand them; and yet as we became
the more acquainted with them, we found their language was nearly the
same spoken at Otaheite and the Society Isles. The difference not being
greater than what we find betwixt the most northern and western parts of
England, as will more fully appear by the vocabulary.
CHAP. IV.
PASSAGE FROM AMSTERDAM TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF AN
INTERVIEW WITH THE INHABITANTS, AND THE FINAL SEPARATION OF THE TWO
SHIPS.
About the time we were in a condition to make sail, a canoe, conducted
by four men, came along-side, with one of those drums already mentioned,
on which one man kept continually beating; thinking, no doubt, the music
would charm us. I gave them a piece of cloth, and a nail, for the drum;
and took the opportunity to send to my friend Attago some wheat, peas,
and beans, which I had forgot to give him when he had the other seeds.
As soon as this canoe was gone, we made sail to the southward, having a
gentle gale at S. E. by E., it being my intention to proceed directly to
Queen Charlotte’s Sound in New Zealand, there to take in wood and water,
and then to go on farther discoveries to the south and east.
In the afternoon on the 8th, we made the island of Pilstart, bearing
S. W. by W. 1/2 W., distant seven or eight leagues. This island, which
was also discovered by Tasman, is situated in the latitude of 22° 26ʹ
south, longitude 175° 59ʹ west, and lies in the direction of S. 52°
west, distant thirty-two leagues from the south end of Middleburg. It is
more conspicuous in height than circuit; having in it two considerable
hills, seemingly disjoined from each other by a low valley. After a few
hours’ calm, the wind came to S. W., with which we stretched to the
S. E., but, on the 10th, it veered round by the south to the S. E. and
E. S. E., and then we resumed our course to the S. S. W.
At five o’clock in the morning of the 21st, we made the land of New
Zealand extending from N. W. by N. to W. S. W.: at noon, Table Cape bore
west, distant eight or ten leagues. I was very desirous of having some
intercourse with the natives of this country as far to the north as
possible; that is, about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where I apprehended
they were more civilized than at Queen Charlotte’s Sound; in order to
give them some hogs, fowls, seeds, roots, &c. which I had provided for
the purpose. The wind veering to the N. W. and north, enabled us to
fetch in with the land a little to the north of Portland, and we stood
as near the shore as we could with safety. We observed several people
upon it, but none attempted to come off to us. Seeing this, we bore away
under Portland, where we lay to some time, as well to give time for the
natives to come off, as to wait for the Adventure. There were several
people on Portland, but none seemed inclined to come to us; indeed the
wind, at this time, blew rather too fresh for them to make the attempt.
Therefore as soon as the Adventure was up with us, we made sail for Cape
Kidnappers, which we passed at five o’clock in the morning, and
continued our course along-shore till nine, when, being about three
leagues short of Black Head, we saw some canoes put off from the shore.
Upon this I brought to, in order to give them time to come on board; but
ordered the Adventure, by signal, to stand on, as I was willing to lose
as little time as possible.
Those in the first canoe, which came along-side, were fishers, and
exchanged some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next, were two
men, whom, by their dress and behaviour, I took to be chiefs. These two
were easily prevailed on to come on board, when they were presented with
nails, and other articles. They were so fond of nails, as to seize on
all they could find, and with such eagerness, as plainly showed they
were the most valuable things we could give them. To the principal of
these two men I gave the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. I believe, at
first, he did not think I meant to give them to him; for he took but
little notice of them, till he was satisfied they were for himself. Nor
was he then in such a rapture as when I gave him a spike-nail half the
length of his arm. However, at his going away, I took notice, that he
very well remembered how many pigs and fowls had been given him, as he
took care to have them all collected together, and kept a watchful eye
over them, lest any should be taken away. He made me a promise not to
kill any; and if he keeps his word, and proper care is taken of them,
there were enough to stock the whole island in due time; being two
boars, two sows, four hens, two cocks. The seeds were such as are most
useful, viz. wheat, French and kidney beans, pease, cabbage, turnips,
onions, carrots, parsnips, and yams, &c. With these articles they were
dismissed. It was evident these people had not forgot the Endeavour
being on their coast; for the first words they spoke to us were, _Mataou
no te pow pow_ (we are afraid of the guns). As they could be no
strangers to the affair which happened off Cape Kidnapper in my former
voyage, experience had taught them to have some regard to these
instruments of death.
As soon as they were gone, we stretched off to the southward, the wind
having now veered to the W. S. W. In the afternoon it increased to a
fresh gale, and blew in squalls; in one of which we lost our
fore-top-gallant mast, having carried the sail a little too long. The
fear of losing the land induced me to carry as much sail as possible. At
seven in the morning, we tacked and stretched in shore, Cape Turnagain,
at this time, bore about N. W. 1/2 N., distant six or seven leagues. The
Adventure, being a good way to leeward, we supposed, did not observe the
signal, but stood on; consequently was separated from us. During the
night (which was spent in plying) the wind increased in such a manner as
to bring us under our courses; it also veered to S. W. and S. S. W., and
was attended with rain.
At nine in the morning on the 23d, the sky began to clear up, and the
gale to abate, so that we could carry close-reefed top-sails. At eleven
o’clock we were close in with Cape Turnagain, when we tacked and stood
off; at noon the said Cape bore west a little northerly, distant six or
seven miles. Latitude observed 41° 30ʹ south. Soon after, the wind
falling almost to a calm, and flattering ourselves that it would be
succeeded by one more favourable, we got up another top-gallant mast,
rigged top-gallant yards, and loosed all the reefs out of the top-sails.
The event was not equal to our wishes. The wind, indeed, came something
more favourable, that is, at W. by N., with which we stretched along
shore to the southward; but it soon increased in such a manner, as to
undo what we had but just done, and at last stripped us to our courses,
and two close-reefed top-sails, under which sails we continued all
night. About day-light the next morning, the gale abating, we were again
tempted to loose out the reefs, and rig top-gallant yards, which proved
all lost labour; for, by nine o’clock, we were reduced to the same sail
as before. Soon after, the Adventure joined us; and at noon Cape
Palliser bore west, distant eight or nine leagues. This Cape is the
northern point of Eahei-nomauwe. We continued to stretch to the
southward till midnight, when the wind abated and shifted to S. E. Three
hours after, it fell calm, during which we loosed the reefs out, with
the vain hopes that the next wind which came would be favourable. We
were mistaken; the wind only took this short repose, in order to gain
strength, and fall the heavier upon us. For at five o’clock in the
morning, being the 25th, a gale sprung up at N. W., with which we
stretched to S. W.: Cape Palliser, at this time, bore N. N. W., distant
eight or nine leagues. The wind increased in such a manner, as obliged
us to take in one reef after another; and, at last, it came on with such
fury, as made it necessary to take in all our sails with the utmost
expedition, and to lie to under bare poles. The sea rose in proportion
with the wind; so that we had a terrible gale, and a mountainous sea to
encounter. Thus, after beating up against a hard gale for two days, and
arriving just in sight of our port, we had the mortification to be
driven off from the land by a furious storm. Two favourable
circumstances attended it, which gave us some consolation; it was fair
over head, and we were not apprehensive of a lee-shore.
The storm continued all the day without the least intermission. In the
evening we bore down to look for the Adventure, she being out of sight
to leeward, and after running the distance we supposed her to be off,
brought to again without seeing; it being so very hazy and thick in the
horizon, that we could not see a mile round us, occasioned by the spray
of the sea being lifted up to a great height by the force of the wind.
At midnight the gale abated; soon after fell little wind; and at last
shifted to S. W., when we wore, set the courses and top-sails
close-reefed, and stood in for the land. Soon after the wind freshened
and fixed at south; but as the Adventure was some distance a-stern, we
lay by for her till eight o’clock, when we both made all sail, and
steered N. by W. 1/2 W. for the strait. At noon observed in 42° 27ʹ
south, Cape Palliser, by judgment, bore north, distant seventeen
leagues. This favourable wind was not of sufficient duration; in the
afternoon it fell, by little and little, and at length to a calm; this
at ten o’clock was succeeded by a fresh breeze from the north, with
which we stretched to the westward.
At three o’clock next morning we were pretty well in with Cape Campbell
on the west side of the Strait, when we tacked, and stretched over for
Cape Palliser, under courses and close-reefed top-sails, having the wind
at N. W. a very strong gale, and fair weather. At noon, we tacked and
stretched to the S. W. with the last-mentioned cape bearing west,
distant four or five leagues. In the afternoon, the gale increased in
such a manner as brought us under our courses. We continued to stretch
to the S. W. till midnight, when we wore, and set close-reefed
top-sails.
On the 28th, at eight o’clock in the morning, we wore, and stood again
to the S. W. till noon, when we were obliged to lie to under the
fore-sail. At this time the high land over Cape Campbell bore west,
distant ten or twelve leagues. The Adventure four or five miles to
leeward. In the afternoon the fury of the gale began to abate; when we
set the main-sail, close-reefed main-top-sail, and stood to the
northward with the wind at W. N. W. and W. by N., a strong gale,
attended with heavy squalls.
In the morning of the 29th, the wind abated and shifted to S. W., a
gentle gale. Of this we took immediate advantage, set all our sails, and
stood for Cape Palliser, which at noon bore W. by N. 1/2 N., distant
about six leagues. The wind continued between the S. W. and south till
five in the evening, when it fell calm. At this time we were about three
leagues from the Cape. At seven o’clock the calm was succeeded by a
gentle breeze from N. N. E. as fair as we could wish; so that we began
to reckon what time we should reach the Sound the next day; but at nine
the wind shifted to its old quarter N. W. and blew a fresh gale, with
which we stretched to the S. W. under single-reefed top-sails and
courses, with the Adventure in company. She was seen until midnight, at
which time she was two or three miles astern, and presently after she
disappeared; nor was she to be seen at daylight. We supposed she had
tacked and stood to the N. E., by which manœuvre we lost sight of her.
We continued to stretch to the westward with the wind at N. N. W., which
increased in such a manner as to bring us under our two courses, after
splitting a new main-top-sail. At noon, Cape Campbell bore W. by N.,
distant seven or eight leagues. At three in the afternoon, the gale
began to abate, and to veer, more to the north, so that we fetched in
with the land, under the Snowy mountains, about four or five leagues to
windward of the Lookers-on, where there was the appearance of a large
bay. I now regretted the loss of the Adventure; for had she been with
me, I should have given up all thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte’s
Sound to wood and water, and have sought for a place to get these
articles farther south, as the wind was now favourable for ranging along
the coast. But our separation made it necessary for me to repair to the
Sound, that being the place of rendezvous.
As we approached the land we saw smoke in several places along the
shore; a sure sign that the coast was inhabited. Our soundings were from
forty-seven to twenty-five fathoms; that is, at the distance of three
miles from the shore, forty-seven fathoms; and twenty-five fathoms at
the distance of one mile, where we tacked, and stood to the eastward,
under the two courses and close-reefed top-sails; but the latter we
could not carry long before we were obliged to hand them. We continued
to stand to the eastward all night, in hopes of meeting with the
Adventure in the morning.
Seeing nothing of her then, we wore and brought to, under the fore-sail
and mizzen-stay-sail, the wind having increased to a perfect storm; but
we had not been long in this situation before it abated, so as to permit
us to carry the two courses, under which we stood to the west; and at
noon the Snowy mountains bore W. N. W., distant twelve or fourteen
leagues. At six o’clock in the evening the wind quite ceased; but this
proved only a momentary repose; for, presently after, it began to blow
with redoubled fury, and obliged us to lie to under the
mizzen-stay-sail; in which situation we continued till midnight, when
the storm lessened; and two hours after it fell calm.
On the 1st of November, at four o’clock in the morning, the calm was
succeeded by a breeze from the south. This soon after increased to a
fresh gale, attended with hazy rainy weather, which gave us hopes that
the N. W. winds were done; for it must be observed, that they were
attended with clear and fair weather. We were not wanting in taking
immediate advantage of this favourable wind, by setting all our sails,
and steering for Cape Campbell, which at noon bore north, distant three
or four leagues.
At two o’clock we passed the Cape, and entered the Strait with a brisk
gale a-stern, and so likely to continue that we thought of nothing less
than reaching our port the next morning. Once more we were to be
deceived: at six o’clock, being off Cloudy Bay, our favourable wind was
succeeded by one from the north, which soon after veered to N. W. and
increased to a fresh gale. We spent the night plying; our tacks proved
disadvantageous; and we lost more on the ebb than we gained on the
flood. Next morning, we stretched over for the shore of Eaheinomauwe. At
sunrise the horizon being extraordinarily clear to leeward, we looked
well out for the Adventure; but as we saw nothing of her, judged she had
got into the Sound. As we approached the above-mentioned shore, we
discovered on the east side of Cape Teerawhitte a new inlet I had never
observed before. Being tired with beating against the N. W. winds, I
resolved to put into this place, if I found it practicable, or to anchor
in the bay which lies before it. The flood being in our favour, after
making a stretch off, we fetched under the Cape, and stretched into the
bay along by the western shore, having from thirty-five to twelve
fathoms, the bottom every where good anchorage. At one o’clock we
reached the entrance of the inlet, just as the tide of ebb was making
out; the wind being likewise against us, we anchored in twelve fathoms
water, the bottom a fine sand. The easternmost of the Black Rocks, which
lie on the larboard side of the entrance of the inlet, bore N. by E.,
one mile distant; Cape Teerawhitte, or the west point of the bay, west,
distant about two leagues; and the east point of the bay N. by E., four
or five miles.
Soon after we had anchored, several of the natives came off in their
canoes; two from one shore, and one from the other. It required but
little address to get three or four of them on board. These people were
extravagantly fond of nails above every other thing. To one man I gave
two cocks and two hens, which he received with so much indifference, as
gave me little hopes he would take proper care of them.
We had not been at anchor here above two hours, before the wind veered
to N. E., with which we weighed; but the anchor was hardly at the bows
before it shifted to south. With this we could but just lead out of the
bay, and then bore away for the Sound under all the sail we could set;
having the advantage, or rather disadvantage, of an increasing gale,
which already blew too hard. We hauled up into the Sound just at dark,
after making two boards, in which most of our sails were split; and
anchored in eighteen fathoms’ water, between the White Rocks and the
N. W. shore.
The next morning the gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours’
calm; after that a breeze sprung up at N. W., with which we weighed and
ran up into Ship Cove, where we did not find the Adventure as was
expected.
CHAP. V.
TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE
INHABITANTS BEING CANNIBALS, AND VARIOUS OTHER INCIDENTS.—DEPARTURE FROM
THE SOUND AND OUR ENDEAVOURS TO FIND THE ADVENTURE, WITH SOME
DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST.
The first thing we did, after mooring the ship, was to unbend all the
sails, there not being one but what wanted repair. Indeed, both our
sails and rigging had sustained much damage in beating off the Strait’s
mouth.
We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the natives, several
of whom I remembered to have seen when I was here in the Endeavour,
particularly an old man named Goubiah. In the afternoon I gave orders
for all the empty water-casks to be landed, in order to be repaired,
cleaned, and filled; tents to be set up for the sail-makers, coopers,
and others, whose business made it necessary for them to be on shore.
The next day we began to caulk the ship’s sides and decks, to overhaul
her rigging, repair the sails, cut wood for fuel, and set up the smith’s
forge to repair the iron-work; all of which were absolutely necessary.
We also made some hauls with the seine, but caught no fish, which
deficiency the natives in some measure made up, by bringing us a good
quantity, and exchanging them for pieces of Otaheitean cloth, &c.
On the 5th, the most part of our bread being in casks, I ordered some to
be opened, when, to our mortification, we found a good deal of it
damaged. To repair this loss in the best manner we could, all the casks
were opened, the bread was picked, and the copper oven set up, to bake
such parcels of it as by that means could be recovered. Some time this
morning, the natives stole out of one of the tents a bag of clothes
belonging to one of the seamen. As soon as I was informed of it, I went
to them in an adjoining cove, demanded the clothes again, and, after
some time spent in friendly application, recovered them. Since we were
among thieves, and had come off so well, I was not sorry for what had
happened, as it taught our people to keep a better look-out for the
future.
With these people I saw the youngest of the two sows Captain Furneaux
had put on shore in Cannibal Cove, when we were last here: it was lame
of one of its hind legs; otherwise in good case, and very tame. If we
understood these people right, the boar and other sow were also taken
away and separated, but not killed. We were likewise told that the two
goats I had put on shore up the Sound had been killed by that old rascal
Goubiah. Thus all our endeavours to stock this country with useful
animals were likely to be frustrated by the very people we meant to
serve. Our gardens had fared somewhat better. Every thing in them,
except the potatoes, they had left entirely to nature, who had acted her
part so well, that we found most articles in a flourishing state; a
proof that the winter must have been mild. The potatoes had most of them
been dug up; some, however, still remained, and were growing, though I
think it is probable they will never be got out of the ground.
Next morning I sent over to the cove, where the natives reside, to haul
the seine, and took with me a boar and a young sow, two cocks and two
hens, we had brought from the isles. These I gave to the natives, being
persuaded they would take proper care of them, by their keeping Captain
Furneaux’s sow near five months; for I am to suppose it was caught soon
after we sailed. We had no better success with the seine than before;
nevertheless, we did not return on board quite empty, having purchased a
large quantity from the natives. When we were upon this traffic, they
showed a great inclination to pick my pockets, and to take away the fish
with one hand which they had just given me with the other. This evil one
of the chiefs undertook to remove, and with fury in his eyes made a show
of keeping the people at a proper distance. I applauded his conduct, but
at the same time kept so good a look-out, as to detect him in picking my
pocket of a handkerchief, which I suffered him to put in his bosom
before I seemed to know any thing of the matter, and then told him what
I had lost. He seemed quite ignorant and innocent, till I took it from
him; and then he put it off with a laugh, acting his part with so much
address, that it was hardly possible for me to be angry with him; so
that we remained good friends, and he accompanied me on board to dinner.
About that time we were visited by several strangers, in four or five
canoes, who brought with them fish and other articles, which they
exchanged for cloth, &c. These new comers took up their quarters in a
cove near us; but very early the next morning moved off with six of our
small water casks, and with them all the people we found here on our
arrival. This precipitate retreat of these last we supposed was owing to
the theft the others had committed. They left behind them some of their
dogs, and the boar I had given them the day before, which I now took
back again, as I had not another. Our casks were the least loss we felt
by these people leaving us; while they remained, we were generally well
supplied with fish, at a small expence.
We had fair weather, with the wind at north-east, on the 9th, which gave
us some hopes of seeing the Adventure; but these hopes vanished in the
afternoon, when the wind shifted to the westward.
The next morning our friends the natives returned again, and brought
with them a quantity of fish, which they exchanged for two hatchets.
Fair weather on the 12th enabled us to finish picking, airing, and
baking our biscuit; four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds of
which we found totally unfit to eat; and about three thousand pounds
more could only be eaten by people in our situation.
On the 13th, clear and pleasant weather. Early in the morning the
natives brought us a quantity of fish, which they exchanged as usual.
But their greatest branch of trade was the green talc or stone, called
by them _Poenammoo_, a thing of no great value; nevertheless, it was so
much sought after by our people, that there was hardly a thing they
would not give for a piece of it.
The 15th, being a pleasant morning, a party of us went over to the East
Bay, and climbed one of the hills which overlooked the eastern part of
the strait, in order to look for the Adventure. We had a fatiguing walk
to little purpose; for when we came to the summit, we found the eastern
horizon so foggy, that we could not see above two miles. Mr. Forster,
who was one of the party, profited by this excursion, in collecting some
new plants. I now began to despair of seeing the Adventure any more, but
was totally at a loss to conceive what was become of her. Till now, I
thought she had put into some port in the strait, when the wind came to
north-west the day we anchored in the cove, and waited to complete her
water. This conjecture was reasonable enough at first, but it was now
hardly probable she could be twelve days in our neighbourhood, without
our either hearing or seeing something of her.
The hill we now mounted is the same that I was upon in 1770, when I had
the second view of the strait: we then built a tower with the stones we
found there, which we now saw had been levelled to the ground, no doubt
by the natives, with a view of finding something hid in it. When we
returned from the hill, we found a number of them collected round our
boat. After some exchanges, and making them some presents, we embarked,
in order to return on board, and in our way visited others of the
inhabitants, by whom we were kindly received.
Our friends the natives employed themselves on the 17th in fishing in
our neighbourhood, and, as fast as they caught the fish, came and
disposed of them to us, insomuch that we had more than we could make use
of. From this day to the 22d nothing remarkable happened, and we were
occupied in getting every thing in readiness to put to sea, being
resolved to wait no longer than the assigned time for the Adventure.
The winds were between the south and west, stormy with rain till the
22d, when the weather became settled, clear, and pleasant. Very early in
the morning we were visited by a number of the natives, in four or five
canoes, very few of whom we had seen before. They brought with them
various articles (curiosities) which they exchanged for Otaheitean
cloth, &c. At first the exchanges were very much in our favour, till an
old man, who was no stranger to us, came and assisted his countrymen
with his advice, which in a moment turned the trade above a thousand
_per cent._ against us.
After these people were gone, I took four hogs (that is three sows and
one boar), two cocks and two hens, which I landed in the bottom of the
West Bay, carrying them a little way into the woods, where we left them
with as much food as would serve them ten or twelve days. This was done
with a view of keeping them in the woods, lest they should come down to
the shore in search of food and be discovered by the natives; which,
however, seemed not probable, as this place had never been frequented by
them, nor were any traces of them to be seen near it. We also left some
cocks and hens in the woods in Ship Cove, but these will have a chance
of falling into the hands of the natives, whose wandering way of life
will hinder them from breeding, even suppose they should be taken proper
care of. Indeed they took rather too much care of those which I had
already given them, by keeping them continually confined, for fear of
losing them in the woods. The sow pig we had not seen since the day they
had her from me; but we were now told she was still living, as also the
old boar and sow given them by Captain Furneaux; so that there is reason
to hope they may succeed. It will be unfortunate, indeed, if every
method I have taken to provide this country with useful animals should
be frustrated. We were likewise told that the two goats were still alive
and running about, but I gave more credit to the first story than this.
I should have replaced them, by leaving the only two I had left, but had
the misfortune to lose the ram soon after our arrival here in a manner
we could hardly account for. They were both put ashore at the tents,
where they seemed to thrive very well: at last the ram was taken with
fits bordering on madness. We were at a loss to tell whether it was
occasioned by any thing he had eaten, or by being stung with nettles,
which were in plenty about the place, but supposed it to be the latter,
and therefore did not take the care of him we ought to have done. One
night while he was lying by the sentinel, he was seized with one of
these fits, and ran headlong into the sea, but soon came out again and
seemed quite easy. Presently after, he was seized with another fit, and
ran along the beach, with the she-goat after him. Some time after she
returned, but the other was never seen more. Diligent search was made
for him in the woods to no purpose; we, therefore, supposed he had run
into the sea a second time and had been drowned. After this accident, it
would have been in vain to leave the she-goat as she was not with kid,
having kidded but a few days before we arrived, and the kids dead. Thus
the reader will see how every method I have taken to stock this country
with sheep and goats has proved ineffectual.
When I returned on board in the evening, I found our good friends the
natives had brought us a large supply of fish. Some of the officers
visiting them at their habitations, saw among them some human
thigh-bones, from which the flesh had been but lately picked. This and
other circumstances led us to believe that the people whom we took for
strangers this morning, were of the same tribe; that they had been out
on some war expedition; and that those things they sold us were the
spoils of their enemies. Indeed, we had some information of this sort
the day before; for a number of women and children came off to us in a
canoe, from whom we learnt that a party of men were then out, for whose
safety they were under some apprehension; but this report found little
credit with us, as we soon after saw some canoes come in from fishing,
which we judged to be them.
Having now got the ship in a condition for sea, and to encounter the
southern latitudes, I ordered the tents to be struck and every thing to
be got on board.
The boatswain, with a party of men, being in the woods cutting broom,
some of them found a private hut of the natives, in which was deposited
most of the treasure they had received from us, as well as some other
articles of their own. It is very probable some were set to watch this
hut; as, soon after it was discovered, they came and took all away. But
missing some things, they told our people they had stolen them, and in
the evening came and made their complaint to me, pitching upon one of
the party as the person who had committed the theft. Having ordered this
man to be punished before them, they went away seemingly satisfied,
although they did not recover any of the things they had lost, nor could
I by any means find out what had become of them; though nothing was more
certain than that something had been stolen by some of the party, if not
by the very man the natives had pitched upon. It was ever a maxim with
me to punish the least crimes any of my people committed against these
uncivilized nations. Their robbing us with impunity, is by no means a
sufficient reason why we should treat them in the same manner, a conduct
we see they themselves cannot justify. They found themselves injured,
and sought for redress in a legal way. The best method, in my opinion,
to preserve a good understanding with such people, is, first, by showing
them the use of fire-arms, to convince them of the superiority they give
you over them, and then to be always upon your guard. When once they are
sensible of these things, a regard for their own safety will deter them
from disturbing you, or from being unanimous in forming any plan to
attack you, and strict honesty and gentle treatment on your part will
make it their interest not to do it.
Calm or light airs from the north all day on the 23d, hindered us from
putting to sea as intended. In the afternoon, some of the officers went
on shore to amuse themselves among the natives, where they saw the head
and bowels of a youth, who had lately been killed, lying on the beach,
and the heart stuck on a forked stick which was fixed to the head of one
of the largest canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head and brought
it on board, where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of
the natives, before all the officers and most of the men. I was on shore
at this time, but soon after returning on board, was informed of the
above circumstances, and found the quarter-deck crowded with the
natives, and the mangled head, or rather part of it (for the under jaw
and lip were wanting), lying on the tafferal. The skull had been broken
on the left side just above the temples, and the remains of the face had
all the appearance of a youth under twenty.
The sight of the head, and the relation of the above circumstances,
struck me with horror, and filled my mind with indignation against these
cannibals. Curiosity, however, got the better of my indignation,
especially when I considered that it would avail but little, and being
desirous of becoming an eye-witness of a fact which many doubted, I
ordered a piece of the flesh to be broiled and brought to the
quarter-deck, where one of these cannibals ate it with surprising
avidity. This had such an effect on some of our people as to make them
sick. Oedidee (who came on board with me), was so affected with the
sight as to become perfectly motionless, and seemed as if metamorphosed
into the statue of horror. It is utterly impossible for art to describe
that passion with half the force that it appeared in his countenance.
When roused from this state by some of us, he burst into tears;
continued to weep and scold by turns; told them they were vile men; and
that he neither was nor would be any longer their friend. He even would
not suffer them to touch him; he used the same language to one of the
gentlemen who cut off the flesh, and refused to accept or even touch the
knife with which it was done. Such was Oedidee’s indignation against the
vile custom, and worthy of imitation by every rational being.
I was not able to find out the reason for their undertaking this
expedition. All I could understand for certain was, that they went from
hence into Admiralty Bay (the next inlet to the west) and there fought
with their enemies, many of whom they killed. They counted to me fifty,
a number which exceeded probability, as they were not more if so many
themselves. I think I understood them clearly, that this youth was
killed there; and not brought away prisoner and afterwards killed. Nor
could I learn that they had brought away any more than this one; which
increased the improbability of their having killed so many. We had also
reason to think that they did not come off without loss; for a young
woman was seen more than once to cut herself, as is the custom when they
lose a friend or relation.
That the New Zealanders are cannibals can now no longer be doubted. The
account given of this in my former voyage, being partly founded on
circumstances, was, as I afterwards understood, discredited by many
persons. Few consider what a savage man is in his natural state, and
even after he is in some degree civilized. The New Zealanders are
certainly in some state of civilization; their behaviour to us was manly
and mild, showing on all occasions a readiness to oblige. They have some
arts among them which they execute with great judgment, and unwearied
patience; they are far less addicted to thieving than the other
islanders of the South Sea; and I believe those in the same tribe, or
such as are at peace one with another, are strictly honest among
themselves. This custom of eating their enemies slain in battle (for I
firmly believe they eat the flesh of no others) has, undoubtedly, been
handed down to them from the earliest times; and we know it is not an
easy matter to wean a nation from their ancient customs, let them be
ever so inhuman and savage; especially if that nation has no manner of
connexion or commerce with strangers. For it is by this that the
greatest part of the human race has been civilized; an advantage which
the New Zealanders from their situation never had. An intercourse with
foreigners would reform their manners, and polish their savage minds.
Or, were they more united under a settled form of government, they would
have fewer enemies; consequently, this custom would be less in use, and
might in time be in a manner forgotten. At present, they have but little
idea of treating others as themselves would _wish_ to be treated, but
treat them as they _expect_ to be treated. If I remember right, one of
the arguments they made use of to Tupia, who frequently expostulated
with them against this custom, was, that there could be no harm in
killing and eating the man who would do the same by them, if it was in
his power. For, said they, “Can there be any harm in eating our enemies,
whom we have killed in battle? Would not those very enemies have done
the same to us?” I have often seen them listen to Tupia with great
attention; but I never found his arguments have any weight with them, or
that, with all his rhetoric, he could persuade any one of them that this
custom was wrong; and when Oedidee, and several of our people showed
their abhorrence of it, they only laughed at them.
Among many reasons which I have heard assigned for the prevalence of
this horrid custom, the want of animal food has been one; but how far
this is deducible either from facts or circumstances, I shall leave
those to find out who advanced it. In every part of New Zealand where I
have been, fish was in such plenty, that the natives generally caught as
much as served both themselves and us. They have also plenty of dogs;
nor is there any want of wild-fowl, which they know very well how to
kill. So that neither this, nor the want of food of any kind, can in my
opinion be the reason. But whatever it may be, I think it was but too
evident that they have a great liking for this kind of food.
I must here observe that Oedidee soon learnt to converse with these
people, as I am persuaded he would have done with the people of
Amsterdam, had he been a little longer with them; for he did not
understand the New Zealanders at first any more than, or not so much, as
he understood the people of Amsterdam.
At four o’clock in the morning, on the 24th, we unmoored with an intent
to put to sea; but the wind being at north and north-east without, and
blowing strong puffs into the cove, made it necessary for us to lie
fast. While we were unmooring, some of our old friends came on board to
take their leave of us, and afterwards left the cove with all their
effects; but those who had been out on the late expedition remained; and
some of the gentlemen having visited them, found the heart still
sticking on the canoe, and the intestines lying on the beach; but the
liver and lungs were now wanting. Probably they had eaten them after the
carcase was all gone.
On the 25th, early in the morning, we weighed, with a small breeze, out
of the cove which carried us no farther than between Motuara and Long
Island, where we were obliged to anchor; but presently after a breeze
springing up at north, we weighed again, turned out of the Sound, and
stood over for Cape Teerawhitte.
During our stay in the Sound we were plentifully supplied with fish,
procured from the natives at a very easy rate; and besides the
vegetables our own gardens afforded, we found every where plenty of
scurvy-grass and celery, which I caused to be dressed every day for all
the hands. By this means they had been mostly on a fresh diet for the
three preceding months; and at this time we had neither a sick nor
scorbutic man on board. It is necessary to mention, for the information
of others, that we had now some pork on board, salted at Ulietea, and as
good as any I ever ate. The manner in which we cured it was thus: In the
cool of the evening, the hogs were killed, dressed, cut up, the bones
cut out, and the flesh salted while it was yet hot. The next morning we
gave it a second salting, packed it into a cask, and put to it a
sufficient quantity of strong pickle. Great care is to be taken that the
meat be well covered with pickle, otherwise it will soon spoil.
The morning before we sailed I wrote a memorandum, setting forth the
time we last arrived, the day we sailed, the route I intended to take,
and such other information as I thought necessary for Captain Furneaux,
in case he should put into the sound; and buried it in a bottle under
the root of a tree in the garden, which is in the bottom of the cove; in
such a manner as must be found by him or any European who might put into
the cove. I, however, had little reason to hope it would fall into the
hands of the person for whom it was intended, thinking it hardly
possible that the Adventure could be in any port in New Zealand, as we
had not heard of her in all this time. Nevertheless, I was resolved not
to leave the coast without looking for her, where I thought it most
likely for her to be. It was with this view that I stood over for Cape
Teerawhitte, and afterward runs along shore, from point to point, to
Cape Palliser, firing guns every half hour; but all to no effect. At
eight o’clock we brought to for the night, Cape Palliser bearing
south-east by east distant three leagues, in which situation we had
fifty fathoms’ water.
I had now an opportunity of making the following remarks on the coast
between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser. The bay which lies on the
west side of the last cape, does not appear to run so far inland to the
northward as I at first thought, the deception being caused by the land
in the bottom of it being low; it is, however, at least five leagues
deep, and full as wide at the entrance. Though it seems to be exposed to
southernly and south-west winds, it is probable there may be places in
the bottom of it sheltered even from these. The bay or inlet on the east
side of Cape Teerawhitte, before which we anchored, lies in north
inclining to the west, and seemed to be sheltered from all winds. The
middle cape or point of land that disjoins these two bays, rises to a
considerable height especially inland; for close to the sea is a skirt
of low land, off which lie some pointed rocks, but so near to the shore
as to be no ways dangerous. Indeed, the navigation of this side of the
strait, seems much safer than the other, because the tides here are not
near so strong. Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser lie in the direction
of N. 69° W. and S. 69° E. from each other, distant ten leagues. The
cape which disjoins the two bays above mentioned, lies within or north
of this direction. All the land near the coast, between and about these
capes, is exceedingly barren; probably owing to its being so much
exposed to the cold southernly winds. From Cape Teerawhitte to the Two
Brothers which lie off Cape Koamaroo, the course is nearly north-west by
north, distant sixteen miles. North of Cape Teerawhitte, between it and
Entry Island, is an island lying pretty near the shore. I judged this to
be an island when I saw it in my former voyage, but not being certain,
left it undetermined in my chart of the strait, which is the reason of
my taking notice of it now, as also of the bays, &c. above-mentioned.
At day-light in the morning on the 26th, we made sail round Cape
Palliser, firing guns as usual as we ran along the shore. In this manner
we proceeded till we were three or four leagues to the north-east of the
cape, when the wind shifting to north-east, we bore away to Cape
Campbell, on the other side of the strait. Soon after seeing a smoke
ascend, at some distance inland away to the north-east we hauled the
wind, and continued to ply till six o’clock in the evening; which was
several hours after the smoke disappeared, and left us not the least
signs of people.
Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither
be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours thereof, I gave
up looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the
voyage; as no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after leaving New
Zealand. Nevertheless, this did not discourage me from fully exploring
the southern parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I
intended to employ the whole of the ensuing season.
On our quitting the coast, and, consequently, all hopes of being joined
by our consort, I had the satisfaction to find that not a man was
dejected, or thought the dangers we had yet to go through were in the
least increased by being alone; but as cheerfully proceeding to the
south, or wherever I might think proper to lead them, as if the
Adventure, or even more ships, had been in our company.
CHAP. VI.
ROUTE OF THE SHIP FROM NEW ZEALAND IN SEARCH OF A CONTINENT.—WITH AN
ACCOUNT OF THE VARIOUS OBSTRUCTIONS MET WITH FROM THE ICE, AND THE
METHODS PURSUED TO EXPLORE THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC OCEAN.
At eight o’clock in the evening of the 26th, we took our departure from
Cape Palliser, and steered to the south, inclining to the east, having a
favourable gale from the north-west and south-west, we daily saw some
rock-weed, seals, Port-Egmont hens, albatrosses, pintadoes, and other
peterels; and on the 2d of December, being in the latitude of 48° 23ʹ
S., longitude 179° 16ʹ W. we saw a number of red-billed penguins, which
remained about us for several days. On the 5th, being in the latitude
50° 17ʹ S. longitude 179° 40ʹ E., the variation was 18° 25ʹ E. At half
an hour past eight o’clock the next evening, we reckoned ourselves
antipodes to our friends in London; consequently, as far removed from
them as possible.
On the 8th, being in latitude 55° 39ʹ, longitude 178° 53ʹ W. we ceased
to see penguins and seals, and concluded that those we had seen retired
to the southern parts of New Zealand, whenever it was necessary for them
to be at land. We had now a strong gale at north-west and a great swell
from south-west. This swell we got as soon as the south point of New
Zealand came in that direction; and as we had had no wind from that
quarter the six preceding days, but, on the contrary, it had been at
east, north, and north-west, I conclude there can be no land to the
southward, under the meridian of New Zealand, but what must lie very far
to the south. The two following days we had very stormy weather, sleet
and snow, winds between the north and south-west.
The 11th the storm abated, and the weather clearing up, we found the
latitude to be 61° 15ʹ S. longitude 173° 4ʹ W. This fine weather was of
short duration: in the evening the wind increased to a strong gale at
south-west, blew in squalls, attended with thick snow showers, hail, and
sleet. The mercury in the thermometer fell to thirty-two; consequently
the weather was very cold, and seemed to indicate that ice was not far
off.
At four o’clock the next morning, being in the latitude of 62° 10ʹ S.
longitude 172° W. we saw the first ice island, 11-1/2° farther S. than
the first ice we saw the preceding year after leaving the Cape of Good
Hope. At the time we saw this ice we also saw an antarctic peterel, some
grey albatrosses, and our old companions, pintadoes and blue peterels.
The wind kept veering from south-west by the north-west to
north-north-east, for the most part a fresh gale, attended with a thick
haze and snow; on which account we steered to the south-east and east,
keeping the wind always on the beam, that it might be in our power to
return back nearly on the same track, should our course have been
interrupted by any danger whatever. For some days we had a great sea
from the north-west and south-west, so that it is not probable there can
be any land near between these two points.