About nine o’clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty

people, appeared in sight. Our friends on board seemed much alarmed,

telling us that these were their enemies: two of them, the one with a

spear, and the other with a stone hatchet in his hand, mounted the

arm-chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those

enemies defiance; while the others, who were on board, took to their

canoe and went ashore, probably to secure the women and children.

All I could do, could not prevail on the two that remained to call these

strangers along-side; on the contrary, they were displeased at my doing

it, and wanted me to fire upon them. The people in the canoe seemed to

pay very little regard to those on board, but kept advancing slowly

towards the ship; and, after performing the usual ceremonies, put

along-side: after this the chief was easily prevailed upon to come on

board, followed by many others, and peace was immediately established on

all sides; indeed, it did not appear to me that these people had any

intention to make war upon their brethren; at least, if they had, they

were sensible enough to know that this was neither the time nor place

for them to commit hostilities.

One of the first questions these strangers asked, was for Tupia; and

when I told them he was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a

kind of lamentation, which to me appeared more formal than real. A trade

soon commenced between our people and them. It was not possible to

hinder the former from selling the clothes from off their backs for the

merest trifles, things that were neither useful nor curious. This caused

me to dismiss the strangers sooner than I would have done. When they

departed, they went over to Motuara, where, by the help of our glasses,

we discovered four or five canoes, and several people on the shore: this

induced me to go over in my boat, accompanied by Mr. Forster and one of

the officers. We were well received by the chief and the whole tribe,

which consisted of between ninety and a hundred persons, men, women, and

children, having with them six canoes, and all their utensils; which

made it probable that they were come to reside in this sound; but this

is only conjecture; for it is very common for them, when they even go

but a little way, to carry their whole property with them; every place

being alike, if it affords them the necessary subsistence; so that it

can hardly be said they are ever from home. Thus we may easily account

for the emigration of those few families we found in Dusky Bay.

Living thus dispersed in small parties, knowing no head but the chief of

the family or tribe, whose authority may be very little, they feel many

inconveniences, to which well regulated societies, united under one head

or any other form of government, are not subject. These form laws and

regulations for their general good; they are not alarmed at the

appearance of every stranger; and if attacked or invaded by a public

enemy, have strong holds to retire to, where they can, with advantage,

defend themselves, their property, and their country. This seems to be

the state of most of the inhabitants of Eahei-nomauwe; whereas, those of

Tavai-poenammoo, by living a wandering life in small parties, are

destitute of most of these advantages, which subjects them to perpetual

alarms. We generally found them upon their guard, travelling and

working, as it were, with their arms in their hands. Even the women are

not exempted from bearing arms, as appeared by the first interview I had

with the family in Dusky Bay; where each of the two women was armed with

a spear not less than eighteen feet in length.

I was led into these reflections, by not being able to recollect the

face of any one person I had seen here three years ago; nor did it once

appear, that any one of them had the least knowledge of me, or of any

person with me that was here at that time; it is, therefore, highly

probable, that the greatest part of the people which inhabited this

sound in the beginning of the year 1770, have been since driven out of

it, or have, of their own accord, removed somewhere else: certain it is,

that not one-third of the inhabitants were here now, that were then.

Their strong hold on the point of Motuara hath been long deserted; and

we found many forsaken habitations in all parts of the sound; we are

not, however, wholly to infer from this, that this place hath been once

very populous; for each family may, for their own convenience, when they

move from place to place, have more huts than one or two.

It may be asked, if these people had never seen the Endeavour, nor any

of her crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or

have in their possession (which many of them had) such articles, as they

could only have got from that ship? To this it may be answered, that the

name of Tupia was so popular among them when the Endeavour was here,

that it would be no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great

part of New Zealand, and as familiar to those who never saw him, as to

those who did. Had ships of any other nation whatever arrived here, they

would have equally enquired of them for Tupia. By the same way of

reasoning, many of the articles left here by the Endeavour, may be now

in possession of those who never saw her. I got from one of the people,

now present, an ear-ornament, made of glass, very well formed and

polished; the glass they must have got from the Endeavour.

After passing about an hour on Motuara with these people, and having

distributed among them some presents, and showed to the chief the

gardens we had made, I returned on board, and spent the remainder of our

royal master’s birth-day in festivity; having the company of Captain

Furneaux and all his officers. Double allowance enabled the seamen to

share in the general joy.

Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furneaux an account

in writing of the route I intended to take; which was to proceed to the

east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46° south, until I arrived in the

longitude of 140° or 135° west; then, provided no land was discovered,

to proceed to Otaheite; from thence back to this place by the shortest

route; and after taking in wood and water, to proceed to the south, and

explore all the unknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New

Zealand and Cape Horn; therefore, in case of separation before we

reached Otaheite, I appointed that island for the place of rendezvous,

where he was to wait till the 20th of August: if not joined by me before

that time, he was then to make the best of his way back to Queen

Charlotte’s Sound, where he was to wait until the 20th of November;

after which (if not joined by me) he was to put to sea, and carry into

execution their lordships’ instructions.

Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on discoveries

as far south as 46 degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But

though it must be owned, that winter is by no means favourable for

discoveries, it nevertheless appeared to me necessary that something

should be done in it, in order to lessen the work I was upon, lest I

should not be able to finish the discovery of the southern part of the

South Pacific Ocean the ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover

any land in my route to the east, I should be ready to begin, with the

summer, to explore it. Setting aside all these considerations, I had

little to fear; having two good ships well provided, and healthy crews.

Where then could I spend my time better? If I did nothing more, I was at

least in hopes of being able to point out to posterity, that these seas

may be navigated, and that it is practicable to go on discoveries, even

in the very depth of winter.

During our stay in the sound, I had observed that this second visit made

to this country, had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex.

I had always looked upon the females of New Zealand to be more chaste

than the generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them

might have granted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done

in a private manner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves

much in it; but now I was told they were the chief promoters of a

shameful traffic, and that, for a spike nail, or any other thing they

value, they would oblige the women to prostitute themselves, whether

they would or no; and even without any regard to that privacy which

decency required.

During our stay here Mr. Wales lost no opportunity to observe equal

altitudes of the sun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The result

of his labours proved that Mr. Kendal’s was gaining 9ʺ, 5 per day, and

Mr. Arnold’s losing 94ʺ, 158 per day, on mean time.

CHAP. IX.

ROUTE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO OTAHEITE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SOME LOW ISLANDS,

SUPPOSED TO BE THE SAME THAT WERE SEEN BY M. DE BOUGAINVILLE.

On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more

favourable, we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the

Adventure in company. We had no sooner got out of the sound, than we

found the wind at south; so that we had to ply through the Straits.

About noon the tide of ebb setting out in our favour, made our boards

advantageous; so that, at five o’clock in the evening, Cape Palliser, on

the Island of Eahei-nomauwe, bore S. S. E. 1/2 S. and Cape Koamaroo, or

the S. E. point of the sound, N. by W. 3/4 W. presently after it fell

calm, and the tide of flood now making against us, carried us, at a

great rate, back to the north. A little before high-water, the calm was

succeeded by a breeze from the north, which soon increased to a brisk

gale. This, together with the ebb, carried us, by eight o’clock the next

morning, quite through the Strait. Cape Palliser, at this time, bore

E. N. E. and at noon N. by W. distant seven leagues.

This day at noon, when we attended the winding up of the watches, the

fusee of Mr. Arnold’s would not turn round; so that, after several

unsuccessful trials, we were obliged to let it go down.

After getting clear of the Straits, I directed my course S. E. by E.

having a gentle gale, but variable, between the north and west. The late

S. E. winds having caused a swell from the same quarter, which did not

go down for some days, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that

direction. We, however, continued to steer to the S. E. and on the 11th,

crossed the meridian of 180°, and got into the west longitude, according

to my way of reckoning.

On the 16th, at seven in the morning, the wind having veered round to

S. E. we tacked and stretched to N. E. being, at this time, in the

latitude of 47° 7ʹ longitude 173° west. In this situation we had a great

swell from N. E.

The wind continued at S. E., and S. S. E. blew fresh at intervals; and

was attended with sometimes fair, and at other times rainy weather, till

the 20th; on which day, being in the latitude of 44° 30ʹ, longitude 165°

45ʹ west, the wind shifted to the west, blew a gentle gale, and was

attended with fair weather. With this we steered E. by N., E. by S., and

E. till the 23d at noon, when, being in the latitude of 44° 38ʹ south,

longitude 161° 27ʹ west, we had a few hours’ calm. The calm was

succeeded by a wind at east, with which we stood to the north. The wind

increased and blew in squalls, attended with rain, which at last brought

us under our courses; and at two o’clock in the afternoon of the next

day, we were obliged to lie to, under the foresail; having a very hard

gale from E. N. E. and a great sea from the same direction.

At seven o’clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more

moderate, we made sail under the courses, and in the afternoon set the

top-sails close-reefed. At midnight, the wind having veered more to the

north, we tacked and stretched to the S. E., being at this time in the

latitude of 42° 53ʹ south, longitude 163° 20ʹ west.

We continued to stretch to the S. E. with a fresh gale and fair weather,

till four o’clock in the afternoon the next day, when we stood again to

the N. E. till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few

hours’ calm; which was succeeded by faint breezes from the west. At this

time we were in the latitude of 42° 32ʹ, longitude 161° 15ʹ west. The

wind remained not long at west, before it veered back to the east by the

north, and kept between the S. E. and N. E. but never blew strong.

On July 2d, being in the latitude of 43° 3ʹ, longitude 156° 17ʹ west, we

had again a calm, which brought the wind back to the west; but it was of

no longer continuance than before, for the next day it returned to the

E. and S. E., blew fresh at times, and by squalls, with rain.

On the 7th, being in the latitude of 41° 22ʹ, longitude 150° 12ʹ west,

we had two hours’ calm; in which time Mr. Wales went on board the

Adventure to compare the watches; and they were found to agree, allowing

for the difference of their rates of going; a probable, if not a certain

proof, that they had gone well since we had been in this sea.

The calm was succeeded by a wind from the south, between which point and

the N. W. it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew

strong; it was, however, attended with a great hollow swell from S. W.

and W., a sure indication that no large land was near in those

directions. We now steered east, inclining to the south, and on the

10th, in the latitude of 43° 39ʹ, longitude 144° 43ʹ west, the variation

was found, by several azimuths, to be no more than 3° east; but the next

morning, it was found to be 4° 5ʹ 30ʺ, and in the afternoon, 5° 56ʹ

east. The same day, at noon, we were in the latitude of 43° 44ʹ,

longitude 141° 56ʹ west.

At nine o’clock in the morning of the 12th, the longitude was observed

as follows, viz.

Self 1st set 139° 47ʹ 15ʺ

Ditto 2d set 140 7 30

Mr. Wales 1st set 141 22 15

Ditto 2d set 140 10 0

Mr. Clerke 140 56 45

Mr. Gilbert 140 2 0

-----------

Mean 140 24 17-1/2 west.

This differed from my reckoning only 2-1/2°. The next morning, in the

latitude of 43° 3ʹ, longitude 139° 20ʹ west, we had several lunar

observations, which were consonant to those made the day before,

allowing for the ship’s run in the time. In the afternoon, we had, for a

few hours, variable light airs next to a calm; after which we got a wind

from the N. E. blowing fresh and in squalls, attended with dark gloomy

weather, and some rain.

We stretched to the S. E. till five o’clock in the afternoon on the

14th; at which time, being in the latitude of 43° 15ʹ, longitude 137°

39ʹ west, we tacked and stood to the north under our courses, having a

very hard gale with heavy squalls, attended with rain, till near noon

the next day, when it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the

latitude of 42° 39ʹ, longitude 137° 58ʹ west. In the evening, the calm

was succeeded by a breeze from S. W., which soon after increased to a

fresh gale; and fixing at S. S. W., with it we steered N. E. 1/2 E. In

the latitude of 41° 25ʹ, longitude 135° 58ʹ west, we saw floating in the

sea a billet of wood, which seemed to be covered with barnacles, so that

there was no judging, how long it might have been there, or from whence

or how far it had come.

We continued to steer N. E. 1/2 E. before a very strong gale, which blew

in squalls, attended with showers of rain and hail, and a very high sea

from the same quarter, till noon, on the 17th. Being then in the

latitude of 39° 44ʹ, longitude 133° 32ʹ west, which was a degree and a

half farther east than I had intended to run; nearly in the middle

between my track to the north in 1769, and the return to the south in

the same year, (as will appear by the chart) and seeing no signs of

land, I steered north-easterly, with a view of exploring that part of

the sea lying between the two tracts just mentioned, down as low as the

latitude of 27°, a space that had not been visited by any preceding

navigator that I knew of.

On the 19th, being in the latitude of 36° 34ʹ, longitude 133° 7ʹ west,

we steered N. 1/2 west, having still the advantage of a hard gale at

south, which the next day veered to S. E. and E. blew hard and by

squalls, attended with rain and thick hazy weather; this continued till

the evening of the 21st, when the gale abated, the weather cleared up,

and the wind backed to the S. and S. E.

We were now in the latitude of 32° 30ʹ, longitude 133° 40ʹ west; from

this situation we steered N. N. W. till noon the next day, when we

steered a point more to the west; being at this time in the latitude of

31° 6ʹ, longitude 134° 12ʹ west. The weather was now so warm, that it

was necessary to put on lighter clothes: the mercury in the thermometer

at noon rose to 63; it had never been lower than 46, and seldom higher

than 54, at the same time of the day, since we left New Zealand.

This day was remarkable by our not seeing a single bird; not one had

passed since we left the land without seeing some of the following

birds, viz. albatrosses, sheer-waters, pintadoes, blue peterels, and

Port Egmont hens; but these frequent every part of the Southern Ocean in

the higher latitudes; not a bird, nor any other thing was seen, that

could induce us to think that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of

any land.

The wind kept veering round from the south by the west to N. N. W., with

which we stretched north till noon the next day, when, being in the

latitude of 29° 22ʹ, we tacked and stretched to the westward. The wind

soon increased to a very hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in such

heavy squalls, as to split the most of our sails. This weather continued

till the morning of the 25th, when the wind became more moderate, and

veered to N. W. and W. N. W., with which we steered and stretched to

N. E., being, at that time, in the latitude of 29° 51ʹ, longitude 136°

28ʹ west. In the afternoon, the sky cleared up, and the weather became

fair and settled. We now met the first tropic bird we had seen in this

sea.

On the 26th, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28° 44ʹ, we had

several observations of the sun and moon, which gave the longitude 135°

30ʹ west. My reckoning at the same time was 135° 27ʹ, and I had no

occasion to correct it since I left the land. We continued to stretch to

the north, with light breezes from the westward, till noon the next day,

when we were stopped by a calm; our latitude at this time being 27° 53ʹ,

longitude 135° 17ʹ west. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a

breeze from the N. and N. W., with which we plied to the north.

On the 29th, I sent on board the Adventure to enquire into the state of

her crew, having heard that they were sickly, and this I now found was

but too true; her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were

down in the scurvy and flux. At this time, _we_ had only three men on

the sick list, and only one of them attacked with the scurvy; several

more, however, began to show symptoms of it, and were accordingly put

upon the wort, marmalade of carrots, rob of lemons and oranges.

I know not how to account for the scurvy raging more in the one ship

than the other, unless it was owing to the crew of the Adventure being

more scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than we were, and to

their eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte’s

Sound, partly for want of knowing the right sorts, and partly because it

was a new diet, which alone was sufficient for seamen to reject it. To

introduce any new article of food among seamen, let it be ever so much

for their good, requires both the example and authority of a commander;

without both of which, it will be dropped before the people are sensible

of the benefits resulting from it: were it necessary, I could name fifty

instances in support of this remark. Many of my people, officers as well

as seamen, at first disliked celery, scurvy-grass, &c., being boiled in

the peas and wheat; and some refused to eat it; but as this had no

effect on my conduct, this obstinate kind of prejudice, by little and

little, wore off; they began to like it as well as the others, and now,

I believe, there was hardly a man in the ship that did not attribute our

being so free from the scurvy, to the beer and vegetables we made use of

at New Zealand; after this, I seldom found it necessary to order any of

my people to gather vegetables, whenever we came where any were to be

got, and if scarce, happy was he who could lay hold on them first. I

appointed one of my seamen to be cook of the Adventure, and wrote to

Captain Furneaux, desiring him to make use of every method in his power

to stop the spreading of the disease amongst his people, and proposing

such as I thought might tend towards it; but I afterwards found all this

unnecessary, as every method had been used they could think of.

The wind continued in the N. W. quarter, and blew fresh, at times,

attended with rain; with which we stood to the N. E. On the 1st of

August, at noon, we were in the latitude of 25° 1ʹ, longitude 134° 6ʹ

west, and had a great hollow swell from N. W. The situation we were now

in, was nearly the same that Captain Cartaret assigns for Pitcairn’s

Island, discovered by him in 1767. We therefore looked well out for it;

but saw nothing. According to the longitude in which he has placed it,

we must have passed about fifteen leagues to the west of it. But as this

was uncertain, I did not think it prudent, considering the situation of

the Adventure’s people, to lose any time in looking for it. A sight of

it would, however, have been of use in verifying or correcting, not only

the longitude of this isle, but of the others that Captain Cartaret

discovered in this neighbourhood; his longitude not being confirmed, I

think, by astronomical observations, and therefore liable to errors,

which he could have no method to correct.

As we had now got to the northward of Captain Cartaret’s tracks, all

hopes of discovering a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to

expect to find, until we returned again to the south. I had now, that is

on this and my former voyage, crossed this ocean in the latitude of 40°

and upwards, without meeting any thing that did, in the least, induce me

to think I should find what I was in search after. On the contrary,

every thing conspired to make me believe there is no southern continent,

between the meridian of America and New Zealand; at least, this passage

did not produce any indubitable signs of any, as will appear by the

following remarks. After leaving the coasts of New Zealand, we daily

saw, floating in the sea, rock-weed, for the space of 18° of longitude.

In my passage to New Zealand in 1769, we also saw of this weed, for the

space of 12° or 14° of longitude, before we made the land. The weed is,

undoubtedly, the produce of New Zealand; because, the nearer the coast,

the greater quantity you see. At the greatest distance from the coast,

we saw it only in small pieces, generally more rotten, and covered with

barnacles; an indubitable sign that it had been long at sea. Were it not

for this, one might be led to conjecture that some other large land lay

in the neighbourhood; for it cannot be a small extent of coast to

produce such a quantity of weed, as to cover so large a space of sea. It

hath been already mentioned, that we were no sooner clear of the

Straits, than we met with a large hollow swell from the S. E. which

continued till we arrived in the longitude of 177° west, and latitude

46°. There we had large billows from the north and N. E. for five days

successively, and until we got 5° of longitude more to the east,

although the wind, great part of the time, blew from different

directions. This was a strong indication that there was no land between

us and my track to the west in 1769. After this, we had, as is usual in

all great oceans, large billows from every direction in which the wind

blew a fresh gale, but more especially from the S. W. These billows

never ceased with the cause that first put them in motion; a sure

indication, that we were not near any large land, and that there is no

continent to the south, unless in a very high latitude. But this was too

important a point to be left to opinions and conjectures. Facts were to

determine it; and these could only be obtained by visiting the southern

parts, which was to be the work of the ensuing summer, agreeably to the

plan I had laid down.

As the winds continued to blow from the N. W. and west, we had no other

choice but to stand to the north, inclining more or less every day to

the east. In the latitude of 21°, we saw flying fish, gannets and

egg-birds. On the sixth, I hoisted a boat out and sent for Captain

Furneaux to dinner; from whom I learnt that his people were much better,

the flux having left them; and the scurvy was at a stand. Some cyder

which he happened to have, and which he gave to the scorbutic people,

contributed not a little to this happy change. The weather to-day was

cloudy, and the wind very unsettled. This seemed to announce the

approach of the so much-wished-for trade wind; which, at eight o’clock

in the evening, after two hours’ calm and some heavy showers of rain, we

actually got at S. E. We were, at this time, in the latitude of 19° 36ʹ

south, longitude 131° 32ʹ west. The not meeting with the S. E.

trade-wind sooner, is no new thing in this sea. As we had now got it, I

directed my course to the W. N. W. as well to keep in the strength of

it, as to get to the north of the islands discovered in my former

voyage; that, if any other islands lay in the way, I might have a chance

to discover them. During the day-time we made all the sail we could; but

in the night, either run an easy sail, or lay to. We daily saw flying

fish, albacores, dolphins, &c. but neither by striking, nor with hook

and line, could we catch any of them. This required some art which none

of my people were masters of.

On the 11th at day-break, land was seen to the south. This, upon a

nearer approach, we found to be an island of about two leagues in

extent, in the direction of N. W. and S. E. and cloathed with wood,

above which the cocoa-nut trees showed their lofty heads. I judged it to

be one of those isles discovered by Mr. Bougainville. It lies in the

latitude of 17° 24ʹ, longitude 141° 39ʹ west; and I called it after the

name of the ship, Resolution Island. The sickly state of the Adventure’s

crew made it necessary for me to make the best of my way to Otaheite,

where I was sure of finding refreshments. Consequently, I did not wait

to examine this island, which appeared too small to supply our wants,

but continued our course to the west; and at six o’clock in the evening,

land was seen from the mast-head, bearing west by south. Probably this

was another of Bougainville’s discoveries. I named it Doubtful Island;

and it lies in the latitude of 17° 20ʹ, longitude 141° 38ʹ W. I was

sorry I could not spare time to haul to the north of Mr. Bougainville’s

track; but the getting to a place where we could procure refreshments

was more an object at this time than discovery.

During the night we steered W. by N. in order to pass the north of the

island above-mentioned. At day-break the next morning, we discovered

land right ahead, distant about two miles; so that day-light advised us

of our danger but just in time. This proved another of these low or

half-drowned islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about

twenty-leagues in circuit. A very small part of it was land, which

consisted of little islets ranged along the north-side, and connected by

sand-banks and breakers. These islets were clothed with wood, among

which the cocoa-nut trees were only distinguishable. We ranged the south

side of this isle or shoal at the distance of one or two miles from the

coral bank, against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. In the

middle is a large lake or inland sea, in which was a canoe under sail.

This island, which I named after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude

17° 5ʹ, longitude 143° 16ʹ west. The situation is nearly the same that

is assigned for one of those discovered by Bougainville. I must here

observe, that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which are

numerous in this part of the ocean) Mr. Bougainville’s discoveries

cannot be known to that degree of accuracy which is necessary to

distinguish them from others. We were obliged to have recourse to his

chart for the latitudes and longitudes of the isles he discovered, as

neither the one nor the other is mentioned in his narrative. Without

waiting to examine this island, we continued to steer to the west, all

sails set, till six o’clock in the evening, when we shortened sail to

three topsails, and at nine brought to.

The next morning at four A. M. we made sail, and at day-break saw

another of these low islands, situated in the latitude of 17° 4ʹ,

longitude 144° 30ʹ west, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M.

de Bougainville very properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles

the Dangerous Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently

convinced us that we were surrounded by them, and how necessary it was

to proceed with the utmost caution, especially in the night.

At five o’clock P. M. we again saw land, bearing S. W. by S. which we

afterwards found to be Chain Island, discovered in my former voyage. But

as I was not sure of it at this time, and being desirous of avoiding the

delay which lying by in the night occasioned, I hoisted out the cutter

and manned her with an officer and seven men with orders to keep as far

a-head of the ships, with a light at her mast-head, as a signal could be

distinguished, which she was to make in case she met with any danger. In

this manner we continued to run all night; and at six o’clock the next

morning, I called her on board and hoisted her in. For it did not appear

she would be wanted again for this purpose, as we had now a large swell

from the south, a sure sign that we were clear of the low islands;

therefore I steered for Otaheite without being apprehensive of meeting

with any danger.

CHAP. X.

THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT OTAHEITE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE CRITICAL

SITUATION THEY WERE IN, AND OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE

THEY LAY IN OAITI-PIHA BAY.

On the 15th, at five o’clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island or

Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis, bearing S. by W. 1/2 W. Soon after

I brought to, and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to

acquaint Captain Furneaux, that it was my intention to put into

Oaiti-piha Bay, near the S. E. end of Otaheite, in order to get what

refreshments we could from that part of the island, before we went down

to Matavai. This done, we made sail, and at six in the evening saw the

island bearing west. We continued to stand on till midnight, when we

brought to, till four o’clock in the morning; and then made sail in for

the land with a fine breeze at east.

At day-break we found ourselves not more than half a league from the

reef. The breeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This

made it necessary to hoist out our boats to tow the ships off; but all

their efforts were not sufficient to keep them from being carried near

the reef. A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different

parts, bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other

fruits, which they exchanged for nails, beads, etc. The most of them

knew me again; and many enquired for Mr. Banks and others who were with

me before; but not one asked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our

situation became still more dangerous. We were, however, not without

hopes of getting round the western point of the reef and into the bay,

till about two o’clock in the afternoon, when we came before an opening

or break in the reef, through which I hoped to get with the ships. But

on sending to examine it, I found there was not a sufficient depth of

water; though it caused such an indraught of the tide of flood through

it, as was very near proving fatal to the Resolution; for as soon as the

ships got into this stream, they were carried with great impetuosity

towards the reef. The moment I perceived this, I ordered one of the

warping machines, which we had in readiness, to be carried out with

about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not the least effect. The

horrors of shipwreck now stared us in the face. We were not more than

two cables’ length from the breakers; and yet we could find no bottom to

anchor, the only probable means we had left to save the ships. We

however dropt an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up,

the ship was in less than three fathoms water, and struck at every fall

of the sea, which broke close under our stern in a dreadful surf, and

threatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily,

brought up close upon our bow without striking.

We presently carried out two kedge anchors, with hawsers to each. These

found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never

knew. By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower anchor, we got

the ship a-float, where we lay some time in the greatest anxiety,

expecting every minute that either the kedges would come home, or the

hawsers be cut in two by the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in

the same direction. I ordered all the boats to try to tow off the

Resolution; and when I saw this was practicable, we hove up the two

kedges. At that moment, a light air came off from the land, which so

much assisted the boats, that we soon got clear of all danger. Then I

ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure; but before they reached

her, she was under sail with the land breeze, and soon after joined us,

leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers,

which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe at sea, after

narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we, but a few days

before, so ardently wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into

this dangerous situation, very fortunately continued; for had the sea

breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been

lost, and probably the Adventure too.

During the time we were in this critical situation, a number of the

natives were on board and about the ships; they seemed to be insensible

of our danger, showing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when we

were striking, and left us little before sun-set, quite unconcerned.

We spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards;

and the next morning, being the 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay in

twelve fathoms’ water, about two cables’ length from the shore; both

ships being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who

brought with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananas, apples, yams, and

other roots, which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several who

called themselves chiefs, I made presents of shirts, axes, and several

other articles; and in return, they promised to bring me hogs and fowls;

a promise they never did, nor ever intended to perform.

In the afternoon I landed, in company with Captain Furneaux, in order to

view the watering-place, and to sound the disposition of the natives. I

also sent a boat to get some water for present use, having scarcely any

left on board. We found this article as convenient as could be expected,

and the natives to behave with great civility.

Early in the morning I sent the two launches, and the Resolution’s

cutter, under the command of Mr. Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the

anchors we had left behind us. They returned about noon with the

Resolution’s bower anchor; but could not recover any of the Adventure’s.

The natives came off again with fruit, as the day before, but in no

great quantity. I also had a party on shore, trading under the

protection of a guard; nothing, however, was brought to market but fruit

and roots, though many hogs were seen (I was told) about the houses of

the natives. The cry was that they belonged to Waheatoua the _Earee de

hi_, or king; and him we had not yet seen, nor, I believe, any other

chief of note; many, however, who called themselves _Earees_, came on

board, partly with a view of getting presents, and partly to pilfer

whatever came in their way.

One of this sort of _Earees_ I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and

made presents to him and all his friends, which were not a few. At

length he was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and

handing them out of the quarter-gallery. Many complaints of the like

nature were made to me against those on deck; which occasioned my

turning them all out of the ship. My cabin guest made good haste to be

gone. I was so much exasperated at his behaviour, that after he had got

some distance from the ship, I fired two muskets over his head, which

made him quit the canoe, and take to the water. I then sent a boat to

take up the canoe; but as she came near the shore, the people from

thence began to pelt her with stones. Being in some pain for her safety,

as she was unarmed, I went myself in another boat to protect her, and

ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coast,

which made them all retire from the shore, and I was suffered to bring

away two canoes without the least show of opposition. In one of the

canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened; but I soon dissipated

his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A few hours

after we were all good friends again; and the canoes were returned to

the first person who came for them.

It was not till the evening of this day that any one enquired after

Tupia, and then but two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause of

his death, they were quite satisfied; indeed, it did not appear to me,

that it would have caused a moment’s uneasiness in the breast of any

one, had his death been occasioned by any other means than by sickness.

As little enquiry was made after Aotourou, the man who went away with M.

de Bougainville; but they were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and

several others who were with me in my former voyage.

These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater

peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought

between the two kingdoms about five months before; and that _Otoo_ was

the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of our principal

friends about Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of

common people; but at present, a peace subsisted between the two

kingdoms.

On the 19th we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers of

rain. Early in the morning, the boats were again sent to recover the

Adventure’s anchors, but returned with the same ill success as the day

before; so that we ceased to look for them any longer, thinking

ourselves very happy in having come off so well, considering the

situation we had been in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I

made along the coast, we met with a chief who entertained us with

excellent fish, fruit, &c. In return for his hospitality, I made him a

present of an axe and other things; and he afterwards accompanied us

back to the ships, where he made but a short stay.

Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the

evening, when one of the natives made off with a musket belonging to the

guard on shore. I was present when this happened, and sent some of our

people after him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some

of the natives, of their own accord, pursued the thief: they knocked him

down, took from him the musket, and brought it to us. Fear, on this

occasion, certainly operated more with them than principle: they,

however, deserve to be applauded for this act of justice; for, if they

had not given their immediate assistance, it would hardly have been in

my power to have recovered the musket by any gentle means whatever; and

by making use of any other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its

value.

The 21st, the wind was at north a fresh breeze. This morning a chief

made me a visit, and presented me with a quantity of fruit, among which

were a number of cocoa-nuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards

thrown over board. These he had picked up, and tied in bundles so

artfully, that we did not at first perceive the cheat. When he was told

of it, without betraying the least emotion, and as if he knew nothing of

the matter, he opened two or three of them himself, signified to us that

he was satisfied that it was so, and then went on shore and sent off a

quantity of plantains and bananas. Having got on board a supply of

water, fruit, and roots, I determined to sail in the morning to Matavai,

as I found it was not likely that I should get an interview with

Waheatoua; without which it was very improbable we should get any hogs.

Two of the natives who knew my intention, slept on board, with a view of

going with us to Matavai; but in the morning the wind blew fresh at

N. W., and as we could not sail, I sent the trading party on shore as

usual.

In the evening I was informed that Waheatoua was come into the

neighbourhood and wanted to see me. In consequence of this information,

I determined to wait one day longer in order to have an interview with

this prince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company

with Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of the natives. We met

the chief about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was

advancing to meet us; but as soon as he saw us he stopt, with his

numerous train in the open air. I found him seated upon a stool, with a

circle of people round him, and knew him at first sight and he me;

having seen each other several times in 1769. At that time he was but a

boy, and went by the name of Tearee, but upon the death of his father

Waheatoua, he took upon him that name.

After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stool

with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began to

enquire after several by name who were with me on my former voyage. He

next inquired how long I would stay; and when I told him no longer than

next day, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last

came down to five days; promising that, in that time, I should have hogs

in plenty. But as I had been here already a week, without so much as

getting one, I could not put any faith in this promise. And yet, I

believe, if I had stayed, we should have fared much better than at

Matavai. The present I made him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad

axe, spike nails, knives, looking-glasses, medals, beads, &c. In return,

he ordered a pretty good hog to be carried to our boat. We stayed with

him all the morning, during which time he never suffered me to go from

his side, where he was seated. I was also seated on the same stool,

which was carried from place to place by one of his attendants, whom we

called stool-bearer. At length we took leave, in order to return on

board to dinner; after which we visited him again, and made him more

presents; and he in return gave Captain Furneaux and me each of us an

hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading places: so that we

got, in the whole to-day, as much fresh pork as gave the crews of both

ships a meal; and this in consequence of our having this interview with

the chief.

The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze.

Soon after we were out, we got the wind at west, which blew in squalls,

attended with heavy showers of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to

sea with cocoa-nuts, and other fruits; and did not leave us till they

had disposed of their cargoes.

The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of the

Adventure’s sick people. Many of them who had been so ill as not to be

able to move without assistance, were, in this short time, so far

recovered, that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in

here, the Resolution had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine,

who had been long sick, and who died, the second day after our arrival,

of a complication of disorders without the least mixture of the scurvy.

I left Lieutenant Pickersgill with the cutter behind in the bay, to

purchase hogs; as several had promised to bring some down to-day, and I

was not willing to lose them.

On the 25th, about noon, Mr. Pickersgill returned with eight pigs, which

he got at Oaitipiha. He spent the night at Ohedea, and was well

entertained by Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable that

this chief never once asked after Aotourou; nor did he take the least

notice, when Mr. Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet Mr. de

Bougainville tells us, this is the very chief who presented Aotourou to

him; which makes it the more extraordinary that he should neither

inquire after him now, nor when he was with us at Matavai; especially as

they believed that we and Mr. Bougainville came from the same country;

that is, from _Pretane_, for so they called our country. They had not

the least knowledge of any other European nation; nor probably will

they, unless some of those men should return who had lately gone from

the isle; of which mention shall be made bye-and-by. We told several of

them, that M. de Bougainville came from _France_, a name they could by

no means pronounce, nor could they pronounce that of _Paris_ much

better; so that it is not likely that they will remember either the one

or the other long. Whereas _Pretane_ is in every child’s mouth, and will

hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the evening of this day that

we arrived in Matavai bay.

CHAP. XI.

AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL VISITS TO AND FROM OTOO; OF GOATS BEING LEFT ON

THE ISLAND; AND MANY OTHER PARTICULARS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS

LAY IN MATAVAI BAY.

Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives;

many of whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were

gotten together upon the shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was

just going to pay him a visit, when I was told he was _mataow’d_, and

gone to Oparree. I could not conceive the reason of his going off in a

fright, as every one seemed pleased to see me. A chief whose name was

Maritata, was at this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit

till the next morning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly

did.

After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the

sick, coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 26th for

Oparree; accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and others,

Maritata and his wife. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo,

whom we found seated on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an

immense crowd round him. After the first compliments were over, I

presented him with such articles as I guessed were most valuable in his

eyes; well knowing that it was my interest to gain the friendship of

this man. I also made presents to several of his attendants; and, in

return, they offered me cloth, which I refused to accept; telling them

that what I had given was for _tiyo_ (friendship). The king inquired for

Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were with me in my former voyage, by

name; although I do not remember that he was personally acquainted with

any of us. He promised that I should have some hogs the next day; but I

had much ado to obtain a promise from him to visit on board. He said he

was _mataou no to poupoue_, that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed, all his

actions showed him to be a timorous prince. He was about thirty years of

age, six feet high, and a fine, personable, well made man as one can

see. All his subjects appeared uncovered before him, his father not

excepted. What is meant by uncovering, is the making bare the head and

shoulders, or wearing no sort of cloathing above the breast.

When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer’s

observatories, set up, on the same spot where we observed the transit of

Venus in 1769. In the afternoon I had the sick landed; twenty from the

Adventure all ill of the scurvy; and one from the Resolution. I also

landed some marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant

Edgcumbe of the marines.

On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train,

paid me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth,

fruits, a hog, and two large fish; and, after some persuasion, came

aboard himself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of

his attendants. To all of them I made presents; and, after breakfast,

took the king, his sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my

boat, and carried them home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I

was met by a venerable old lady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She

seized me by both hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying,

_Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty Toutaha_—(Toutaha, your friend, or the

friend of Cook, is dead). I was so much affected with her behaviour,

that it would have been impossible for me to have refrained mingling my

tears with hers, had not Otoo come and taken me from her. I, with some

difficulty, prevailed on him to let me see her again, when I gave her an

axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux, who was with me, presented

the king with two fine goats, male and female, which, if taken care of,

or rather if no care at all is taken of them, will no doubt multiply.

After a short stay we took leave and returned on board.

Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr. Pickersgill, with the

cutter, as far as Ottahourou, to endeavour to procure hogs. A little

after sun-rise, I had another visit from Otoo, who brought me more

cloth, a pig, and some fruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of

his attendants, came on board; but he and others went to the Adventure,

with the like present to Captain Furneaux. It was not long before he

returned with Captain Furneaux on board the Resolution, when I made him

a handsome return for the present he had brought me, and dressed his

sister out in the best manner I could. She, the king’s brother, and one

or two more, were covered before him to-day. When Otoo came into the

cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were sitting there. The moment they

saw the king enter, they stripped themselves in great haste, being

covered before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said _Earee, Earee_;

giving me to understand that it was on account of Otoo being present.

This was all the respect they paid him; for they never rose from their

seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thought proper to

depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat; where I entertained

him, and his people, with the bag-pipes (of which music they are very

fond), and dancing by the seamen. He, in return, ordered some of his

people to dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There

were, however, some who could imitate the seamen tolerably well, both in

country-dances and hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of

cloth from the late Toutaha’s mother. This good old lady could not look

upon me without shedding tears; however, she was far more composed than

before. When we took leave, the king promised to visit me again the next

day; but said that I must first come to him. In the evening Mr.

Pickersgill came back empty; but with a promise of having some hogs, if

he would return in a few days.

Next morning, after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo,

as he had requested, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the

officers. We made him up a present of such things as he had not seen

before. One article was a broad sword; at the very sight of which he was

so intimidated, that I had much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and

to have it buckled upon him; where it remained but a short time, before

he desired leave to take it off and send it out of his sight.

Soon after we were conducted to the theatre; where we were entertained

with a dramatic _heava_, or _play_, in which were both dancing and

comedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a

person than the king’s sister. The music consisted of three drums only;

it lasted about an hour and an half, or two hours; and, upon the whole,

was well conducted. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning

of the play. Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name

was frequently mentioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected

with us. It apparently differed in nothing, that is in the manner of

acting it, from those we saw at Ulietea in my former voyage. The

dancing-dress of the lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by

being decorated with long tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the

waist downward. As soon as all was over, the king himself desired me to

depart; and sent into the boat different kinds of fruit and fish, ready

dressed. With this we returned on board; and the next morning he sent me

more fruit, and several small parcels of fish.

Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o’clock in the evening,

when we were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on

shore, near the bottom of the bay, at some distance from our encampment.

I suspected that it was occasioned by some of our own people; and

immediately armed a boat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of

this disturbance, and to bring off such of our people as should be found

there. I also sent to the Adventure, and to the post on shore, to know

who were missing; for none were absent from the Resolution, but those

who were upon duty. The boat soon returned with three marines, and a

seaman. Some others, belonging to the Adventure, were also taken, and

being all put under confinement, the next morning I ordered them to be

punished according to their deserts. I did not find that any mischief

was done, and our people would confess nothing. I believe this

disturbance was occasioned by their making too free with the women. Be

this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled from

their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many

miles along the coast. For when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by

appointment, I found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the

place of his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours, before

I could see him at all; and when I did, he complained of the last

night’s riot.

As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a present

suitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep,

which he had seen before and asked for; for these people never lose a

thing by not asking for it. He was much pleased with them; though he

could be but little benefited, as they were all weathers; a thing he was

made acquainted with. The presents he got at this interview entirely

removed his fears, and opened his heart so much, that he sent for three

hogs; one for me, one for Captain Furneaux, and one for Mr. Forster.

This last was small, of which we complained, calling it _ete, ete_.

Presently after a man came into the circle, and spoke to the king with

some warmth, and in a very peremptory manner; saying something or other

about hogs. We, at first, thought he was angry with the king for giving

us so many, especially as he took the little pig away with him. The

contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause of his displeasure;

for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger than either of the other

two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we took leave, I

acquainted him that I should sail from the island the next day; at which

he seemed much moved, and embraced me several times. We embarked to

return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed their march

back to Oparree.

The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, and

water completed, as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, I

determined to put to sea without farther delay. Accordingly on the 1st

of September, I ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, and

the ships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the

day. In the afternoon Mr. Pickersgill returned from Attahourou; to which

place I had sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been

promised. My old friend Pottatou, the chief of that district, his wife,

or mistress (I know not which), and some more of his friends, came along

with Mr. Pickersgill, in order to visit me. They brought me a present of

two hogs, and some fish; and Mr. Pickersgill got two more hogs, by

exchange, from Oamo: for he went in the boat as far as Paparra, where he

saw old Oberea. She seemed much altered for the worse, poor, and of

little consequence. The first words she said to Mr. Pickersgill were,

_Earee mataou ina boa_, Earee is frightened, you can have no hogs. By

this it appeared that she had little or no property, and was herself

subject to the Earee; which I believe was not the case when I was here

before. The wind, which had blown westerly all day, having shifted at

once to the east, we put to sea; and I was obliged to dismiss my friends

sooner than they wished to go; but well satisfied with the reception

they had met with.

Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo,

came and desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he

might be of service to us on some occasion. Many more offered

themselves, but I refused to take them. This youth asked me for an axe

and a spike nail for his father, who was then on board. He had them

accordingly, and they parted just as we were getting under sail, more

like two strangers than father and son. This raised a doubt in me

whether it was so; which was farther confirmed by a canoe, conducted by

two men, coming along-side, as we were standing out of the bay, and

demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. I now saw that the whole

was a trick to get something from me; well knowing that Otoo was not in

the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the matter. Poreo seemed,

however, at first undetermined whether he should go or stay; but he soon

inclined to the former. I told them to return me the axe and nails, and

then he should go (and so he really should), but they said they were

ashore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed pretty well satisfied,

he could not refrain from weeping, when he viewed the land astern.

CHAP. XII.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE RECEPTION WE MET WITH AT HUAHEINE, WITH THE INCIDENTS

THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS LAY THERE, AND OF OMAI, ONE OF THE

NATIVES, COMING AWAY IN THE ADVENTURE.

As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my

course for the Island of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it

the next day, and spent the night, making short boards under the north

end of the island. At day-light in the morning of the 3d, we made sail

for the harbour of Owharre; in which the Resolution anchored, about nine

o’clock, in twenty-four fathoms’ water. As the wind blew out of the

harbour, I chose to turn in by the southern channel, it being the

widest. The Resolution turned in very well, but the Adventure, missing

stays, got ashore on the north side of the channel. I had the

Resolution’s launch in the water ready, in case of an accident of this

kind, and sent her immediately to the Adventure. By this timely

assistance, she was got off again, without receiving any damage. Several

of the natives, by this time, had come off to us, bringing with them

some of the productions of the island; and, as soon as the ships were

both in safety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and was received by the

natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed some presents among

them; and presently after, they brought down hogs, fowls, dogs, and

fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, beads, &c.

The like trade was soon opened on board the ships; so that we had a fair

prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls; and,

to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. I learnt that

my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and that he was

hastening to this part to see me.

Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a

trading party, toward the south end of the isle. I also sent another

trading party on shore near the ships, with which I went myself, to see

that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very

necessary point to be attended to. Every thing being settled to my mind,

I went, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, to pay my first

visit to Oree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to

the place by one of the natives; but were not permitted to go out of our

boat, till we had gone through some part of the following ceremony,

usually performed at this isle, on such like occasions. The boat, in

which we were desired to remain, being landed before the chief’s house,

that stood close to the shore, five young plantain trees, which are

their emblems of peace, were brought on board separately, and with some

ceremony. Three young pigs, with their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut

fibres, accompanied the first three; and a dog, the fourth. Each had its

particular name and purpose, rather too mysterious for us to understand.

Lastly, the chief sent to me the inscription engraved on a small piece

of pewter, which I left with him in July, 1769. It was in the same bag I

had made for it, together with a piece of counterfeit English coin, and

a few beads, put in at the same time; which shows how well he had taken

care of the whole. When they had made an end of putting into the boat

the things just mentioned, our guide, who still remained with us,

desired us to decorate three young plantain trees with looking-glasses,

nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly done, we landed

with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the chief, through

the multitude; they making a lane, as it were, for us to pass through.

We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, and our

plaintains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, as

the others had been laid before us. One was for _Eatoua_ (or God), the

second for the _Earee_ (or king), and the third for _Tiyo_ (or

friendship). This being done, I wanted to go to the king, but was told

that he would come to me, which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck

and embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious; the tears, which

trickled plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke

the language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his

friends were introduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the

chief consisted of the most valuable articles I had; for I had regarded

this man as a father. In return he gave me a hog and a quantity of

cloth, promising that all our wants should be supplied; and it will soon

appear how well he kept his word. At length we took leave, and returned

on board; and some time after Mr. Pickersgill returned also with

fourteen hogs. Many more were got by exchanges on shore, and along-side

the ships, besides fowls and fruit in abundance.

This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th,

together with some of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for

which I made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as

not to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of

ready-dressed fruit, and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant

Pickersgill being again sent with the two boats, in search of hogs,

returned in the evening with twenty-eight; and about four times that

number were purchased on shore, and along-side the ships.

Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people,

were sent on shore as usual; and after breakfast, I went to the place

myself, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very

troublesome and insolent. This man, being pointed out to me, completely

equipped in the war habit with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on

mischief, I took these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with

some difficulty forced him to retire from the place. As they told me

that he was a chief, this made me the more suspicious of him, and

occasioned me to send for a guard, which till now I had thought

unnecessary. About this time, Mr. Sparrman, having imprudently gone out

alone, botanizing, was set upon by two men, who stripped him of every

thing he had about him, except his trowsers, struck him several times

with his own hanger, but happily did him no harm. As soon as they had

accomplished their end, they made off; after which another of the

natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to the

trading place, where were a great number of the inhabitants. The very

instant Mr. Sparrman appeared in the condition I have just mentioned,

they fled to a man with the utmost precipitation. My first conjectures

were, that they had stolen something; but we were soon undeceived, when

we saw Mr. Sparrman, and the affair was related to us. As soon as I

could recall a few of the natives, and had made them sensible that I

should take no step to injure those who were innocent, I went to Oree to

complain of this outrage, taking with us the man who came back with Mr.

Sparrman, to confirm the complaint. As soon as the chief heard the whole

affair related, he wept aloud, as did many others. After the first

transports of his grief were over, he began to expostulate with his

people, telling them, (as far we could understand) how well I had

treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how base it was in

them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute account of the

things Mr. Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all in his power

to recover them, and rising up, desired me to follow him to my boat.

When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, apprehensive of his

safety, they used every argument to dissuade him from what they, no

doubt, thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding

all they could do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly

in my power, they set up a great outcry. The grief they showed was

inexpressible; every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed,

entreated, nay, attempted to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my

entreaties to theirs, for I could not bear to see them in such distress.

All that could be said or done, availed nothing; he insisted on my

coming into the boat, which was no sooner done than he ordered it to be

put off. His sister, with a spirit equal to that of her royal brother,

was the only person who did not oppose his going. As his intention in

coming into our boat was to go with us in search of the robbers, we

proceeded accordingly as far as it was convenient by water, then landed,

entered the country, and travelled some miles inland, the chief leading

the way, enquiring of every one he saw. At length he stepped into a

house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-nuts for us, and after we

were a little refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther; but this I

opposed, thinking that we might be carried to the very farthest end of

the island, after things, the most of which, before they came into our

hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used many

arguments to persuade me to proceed, telling me that I might send my

boat round to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if

I thought it too far to travel. But I was resolved to return, and he was

obliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I would follow him no

farther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things; for I

found that the thieves had got so much start of us that we might follow

them to the remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them;

besides, as I intended to sail the next morning, this occasioned a great

loss to us, by putting a stop to all manner of trade; for the natives

were so much alarmed, that none came near us, but those that were about

the chief; it, therefore, became the more necessary for me to return, to

restore things to their former state. When we got back to our boat, we

there found Oree’s sister, and several more persons, who had travelled

by land to the place. We immediately stept into the boat in order to

return on board, without so much as asking the chief to accompany us.

He, however, insisted on going also; and followed us into the boat in

spite of the opposition and entreaties of those about him; his sister

followed his example, and the tears and prayers of her daughter, who was

about sixteen or eighteen years of age, had no weight with her on this

occasion. The chief sat at table with us, and made a hearty dinner; his

sister, according to custom, ate nothing. After dinner, I sufficiently

rewarded them for the confidence they had put in me, and soon after

carried them both on shore, where some hundreds of people waited to

receive them, many of whom embraced their chief with tears of joy. All

was now joy and peace: the people crowded in from every part, with hogs,

fowls, and fruit, so that we presently filled two boats; Oree himself

presented me with a large hog and a quantity of fruit. The hanger (the

only thing of value Mr. Sparrman had lost) with part of his coat, were

brought us; and we were told, we should have the others the next day.

Some of the officers, who were out on a shooting party, had some things

stolen from them, which were returned in like manner.

Thus ended the troublesome transactions of this day, which I have been

the more particular in relating, because it shows what great confidence

this brave old chief put in us; it also, in some degree, shows that

friendship is sacred with them. Oree and I were professed friends in all

the forms customary among them; and he seemed to think that this could

not be broken by the act of any other persons. Indeed this seemed to be

the great argument he made use of to his people, when they opposed his

going into my boat. His words were to this effect:—“Oree (meaning me,

for so I was always called) and I are friends; I have done nothing to

forfeit his friendship; why, then, should I not go with him?” We,

however, may never find another chief who will act in the same manner

under similar circumstances. It may be asked, What had he to fear? to

which I answer, Nothing; for it was not my intention to hurt a hair of

his head, or to detain him a moment longer than he desired. But how was

he or the people to know this? They were not ignorant, that, if he was

once in my power, the whole force of the island could not take him from

me, and that, let my demands for his ransom have been ever so high, they

must have complied with them. Thus far their fears, both for his and

their own safety, were founded in reason.

On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went

to pay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and

Mr. Forster. We took with us, for a present, such things as were not

only valuable but useful. I also left with him the inscription-plate he

had before in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were

engraved these words, “Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty’s ships

Resolution and Adventure, September, 1773,” together with some medals,

all put up in a bag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to

produce, to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the island. He

then gave me a hog; and, after trading for six or eight more, and

loading the boat with fruit, we took leave, when the good old chief

embraced me with tears in his eyes. At this interview, nothing was said

about the remainder of Mr. Sparrman’s clothes. I judged they were not

brought in; and, for that reason, did not mention them, lest I should

give the chief pain about things I did not give him time to recover; for

this was early in the morning.

When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes

full of hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been

long on board, before Oree himself came, to inform me, as we understood,

that the robbers were taken, and to desire us to go on shore, either to

punish, or to see them punished; but this could not be done, as the

Resolution was just under sail, and the Adventure already out of the

harbour. The chief stayed on board till we were a full half league out

at sea, then took a most affectionate leave of me, and went away in a

canoe, conducted by one man and himself, all the others having gone long

before. I was sorry that it was not convenient for me to go on shore

with him, to see in what manner these people would have been punished;

for I am satisfied, this was what brought him on board.

During our short stay at the small but fertile isle of Huaheine, we

procured to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, beside fowls

and fruits; and, had we stayed longer, might have got many more; for

none of these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but

appeared every where in as great abundance as ever.

Before we quitted this island Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on

board his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he had

had some property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of

Bolabola. I at first rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would

encumber himself with this man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper

sample of the inhabitants of these happy islands, not having any

advantage of birth, or acquired rank, nor being eminent in shape,

figure, or complexion. For their people of the first rank are much

fairer, and usually better behaved, and more intelligent, than the

middling class of people, among whom Omai is to be ranked. I have,

however, since my arrival in England, been convinced of my error: for,

excepting his complexion, (which is undoubtedly of a deeper hue than

that of the _earees_ or gentry, who, as in other countries, live a more

luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun,) I much

doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more general

satisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has most certainly a very

good understanding, quick parts, and honest principles; he has a natural

good behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company, and a

proper degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons

of inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men,

but has judgment enough not to indulge them in an improper excess. I do

not imagine that he has any dislike to liquor; and if he had fallen into

company where the person who drank the most met with the most

approbation, I have no doubt but that he would have endeavoured to gain

the applause of those with whom he associated; but, fortunately for him,

he perceived that drinking was very little in use but among inferior

people, and as he was very watchful into the manners and conduct of the

persons of rank who honoured him with their protection, he was sober and

modest; and I never heard that, during the whole time of his stay in

England, which was two years, he ever once was disguised with wine, or

ever showed an inclination to go beyond the strictest rules of

moderation.

Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first lord

of the admiralty, introduced him to his Majesty at Kew, when he met with

a most gracious reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of duty

and gratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am persuaded he

will preserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay among us

he was caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to

forfeit the esteem of any one of them; but his principal patrons were

the Earl of Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander: the former probably

thought it a duty of his office to protect and countenance an inhabitant

of that hospitable country, where the wants and distresses of those in

his department had been alleviated and supplied in the most ample

manner; the others, as a testimony of their gratitude for the generous

reception they had met with during their residence in his country. It is

to be observed, that though Omai lived in the midst of amusements during

his residence in England, his return to his native country was always in

his thoughts, and though he was not impatient to go, he expressed a

satisfaction as the time of his return approached. He embarked with me

in the Resolution, when she was fitted out for another voyage, loaded

with presents from his several friends, and full of gratitude for the

kind reception and treatment he had experienced among us.

CHAP. XIII.

ARRIVAL AT, AND DEPARTURE OF THE SHIPS FROM, ULIETEA; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF

WHAT HAPPENED THERE, AND OF OEDIDEE, ONE OF THE NATIVES, COMING AWAY IN

THE RESOLUTION.

The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea (where I

intended to stop a few days). Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at

the close of the day, we spent the night making short boards. It was

dark, but we were sufficiently guided by the fishers’ lights on the

reefs and shores of the isles. The next morning, after making a few

trips, we gained the entrance of the harbour; and, as the wind blew

directly out, I sent a boat to lie in soundings, that we might know when

to anchor. As soon as the signal was made by her, we borrowed close to

the south point of the channel; and, with our sails set, shooting within

the boat, we anchored in seventeen fathoms water. We then carried out

anchors and hawsers to warp in by; and, as soon as the Resolution was

out of the way, the Adventure came up in like manner, and warped in by

the Resolution. The warping in, and mooring the ships, took up the whole

day.

We were no sooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than the

natives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latter

they exchanged for nails and beads; the former we refused as yet, having

already as many on board as we could manage. Several we were, however,

obliged to take, as many of the principal people brought off little

pigs, pepper, or eavoa-root, and young plantain trees, and handed them

into the ship, or put them into the boats along-side, whether we would

or no; for if we refused to take them on board, they would throw them

into the boats. In this manner did these good people welcome us to their

country.

I had forgot to mention, that Tupia was much inquired after at Huaheine;

but at this place every one asked about him, and the occasion of his

death; and, like true philosophers, were perfectly satisfied with the

answers we gave them. Indeed, as we had nothing but the truth to tell,

the story was the same, by whomsoever told.

Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of

the isle, carrying with us the necessary presents. We went through no

sort of ceremony at landing, but were, at once, conducted to him. He was

seated in his own house, which stood near the water-side, where he and

his friends received us with great cordiality. He expressed much

satisfaction at seeing me again, and desired that we might exchange

names, which I accordingly agreed to. I believe this is the strongest

mark of friendship they can show to a stranger. He enquired after Tupia

and all the gentlemen, by name, who were with me when I first visited

the island. After we had made the chief and his friends the necessary

presents, we went on board with a hog and some fruit, received from him

in return; and in the afternoon he gave me another hog, still larger,

without asking for the least acknowledgment. Exchanges for fruit, &c.

were mostly carried on along-side the ships. I attempted to trade for

these articles on shore; but did not succeed, as the most of them were

brought in canoes from distant parts, and carried directly to the ships.

After breakfast, on the 10th, Captain Furneaux and I paid the chief a

visit; and we were entertained by him with such a comedy, or dramatic

_heava_, as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted of

three drums; the actors were seven men, and one woman, the chief’s

daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama was a theft committed

by a man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently

displayed the genius of the people in this vice.—The theft is discovered

before the thief has time to carry off his prize; then a scuffle ensues

with those set to guard it, who, though four to two, are beat off the

stage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their plunder in

triumph. I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full

expectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before

been informed that _Teto_ (that is, the Thief) was to be acted, and had

understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good

_tiparrahying_ (or beating), a punishment, we are told, they inflict on

such as are guilty of this crime. Be this as it may, strangers are

certainly excluded from the protection of this law; them they rob, with

impunity, on every occasion that offers. After the play was over, we

returned on board to dinner; and in the cool of the evening took a walk

on shore, where we learnt from one of the natives, that nine small

islands, two of which were uninhabited, lay to the westward, at no great

distance from hence.

On the 11th, early in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son,

a youth about twelve years of age. The latter brought me a hog, and some

fruit; for which I made him a present of an axe, and dressed him in a

shirt, and other things, which made him not a little proud of himself.

Having stayed some hours, they went on shore; as I also did soon after,

but to another part. The chief hearing I was on shore, came to the place

where he found the boat, into which he put a hog, and a quantity of

fruit, without saying a word to any body; and, with some of his friends,

came on board and dined with us. After dinner I had a visit from

Oo-oorou, the principal chief of the isle. He was introduced to us by

Oreo, and brought with him, as a present, a large hog, for which I made

him a handsome return. Oreo employed himself in buying hogs for me (for

we now began to take of them), and he made such bargains as I had reason

to be satisfied with. At length they all took leave, after making me

promise to visit them next morning; which I accordingly did, in company

with several of the officers and gentlemen. Oreo ordered an _heava_ to

be acted for our entertainment, in which two very pretty young women

were the actresses. This _heava_ was somewhat different from the one I

saw before, and not so entertaining. Oreo, after it was over,

accompanied us on board, together with two of his friends.

The following day was spent in much the same manner; and early in the

morning of the 14th, I sent Mr. Pickersgill, with the Resolution’s

launch, and Adventure’s cutter, to Otaha, to procure an additional

supply of bananas, and plantains, for a sea-store; for we could get

little more of these articles at Ulietea than were sufficient for

present consumption. Oreo, and some of his friends, paid me a pretty

early visit this morning. I acquainted the chief that I would dine with

him, and desired he would order two pigs to be dressed after their

manner, which he accordingly did; and about one o’clock I and the

officers and gentlemen of both ships went to partake of them. When we

came to the chief’s house, we found the cloth laid; that is green leaves

were strewed thick on the floor. Round them we seated ourselves:

presently one of the pigs came over my head souse upon the leaves, and

immediately after the other; both so hot as hardly to be touched. The

table was garnished round with hot bread-fruit and plantains, and a

quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man being ready, with his

knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony; and it must be owned,

in favour of their cookery, that victuals were never cleaner, nor better

dressed. For though the pigs were served up whole, and the one weighed

between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about half as much, yet

all the parts were equally well done and ate much sweeter than if

dressed in any of our methods. The chief and his son, and some other of

his male friends, ate with us, and pieces were handed to others who sat

behind: for we had a vast crowd about us; so that it might be truly said

we dined in public. The chief never failed to drink his glass of Madeira

whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when

he dined with us, without ever being once affected by it. As soon as we

had dined, the boat’s crew took the remainder; and by them, and those

about them, the whole was consumed. When we rose up, many of the common

people rushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which

they searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe that,

though there is plenty of pork at these isles, but little falls to their

share. Some of our gentlemen being present when these pigs were killed

and dressed, observed the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c. into

ten or twelve equal parts, and serve it out to certain people. Several

daily attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, for the sake of the

entrails of the hogs we killed. Probably little else falls to the share

of the common people. It, however, must be owned, that they are

exceedingly careful of every kind of provision, and waste nothing that

can be eaten by man; flesh and fish especially.

In the afternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had

been acted almost every day since we had been here, either to entertain

_us_, or for their own amusement, or perhaps both.

Next morning produced some circumstances which fully prove the timorous

disposition of these people. We were surprised to find that none of them

came off to the ships as usual. Two men belonging to the Adventure

having stayed on shore all night, contrary to orders, my first

conjectures were, that the natives had stripped them, and were now

afraid to come near us, lest we should take some step to revenge the

insult; but in order to be better satisfied, Captain Furneaux and I went

ashore to Oreo’s house, which we found quite empty; he and all his

family gone, and the whole neighbourhood, in a manner, quite deserted.

The two men belonging to the Adventure made their appearance, and

informed us that they had been very civilly treated by the natives, but

could give no account of the cause of their precipitate flight. All that

we could learn, from the very few who durst come near us, was, that

several were killed, others wounded by our guns, pointing out to us

where the balls went in and out of the body, &c. This relation gave me a

good deal of uneasiness for the safety of our people gone to Otaha,

fearing that some disturbance had happened at that island: however, in

order to be better informed, I determined, if possible, to see the chief

himself. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, having one of the natives

with us, and rowed along-shore to the northward, the way we were told he

was gone. We soon came in sight of the canoe in which he was; but before

we could come up with her he had got on shore. We landed presently

after, and found he was gone still farther. An immense crowd, however,

waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One man offered to

carry me on his back; but the whole story appearing rather more

mysterious than ever, and being all unarmed, I did not choose to

separate myself from the boat, but embarked again, and rowed after him.

We soon came before the place where our guide told us he was, and put in

the boat accordingly. It grounded at some distance from the shore, where

we were met by a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. She threw

herself into my arms and wept bitterly, insomuch that it was not

possible to get one plain word from her. With this old lady in my hand I

went ashore, contrary to the advice of my young man from Otaheite, who

seemed more afraid than any of us, probably believing every word the

people had told us. I found the chief seated under the shade of a house,

before which was a large area, and surrounded by a vast number of

people. As soon as I came to him, he threw his arms about me, and burst

into tears; in which he was accompanied by all the women and some of the

men, so that the lamentation became general. Astonishment alone kept me

from joining with them. It was some time before I could get a word from

any one; at last all my enquiries gave me no other information than that

they were alarmed on account of our boats being absent; thinking that

the people in them had deserted from us, and that I should take some

violent means to recover them; for when we assured them that the boats

would return back, they seemed cheerful and satisfied, and, to a man,

denied that any one was hurt, either of their own or our people; and so

it afterwards proved. Nor did it appear that there was the least

foundation for these alarms; nor could we ever find out by what means

this general consternation first took its rise. After a stay of about an

hour, I returned on board; three of the natives coming along with us,

who proclaimed the peace as we rowed along-shore to all they saw.

Thus matters were again restored to their former footing; and the next

morning they came off to the ships as usual. After breakfast Captain

Furneaux and I paid the chief a visit. We found him at his own house

perfectly easy; insomuch that he, and some of his friends, came on

board, and dined with us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young man,

Poreo, had taken a resolution to leave me. I have just mentioned

_before_, his being with us when I followed Oreo, and his advising me

not to go on shore. He was so much afraid at that time, that he remained

in the boat till he heard all matters were reconciled; then he came out,

and presently after met with a young woman for whom he had contracted a

friendship. Having my powder-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one

of my people who was by me, and then went away with her, and I saw him

no more.

In the afternoon our boats returned from Otaha, pretty well laden with

plantains; an article we were most in want of. They made the circuit of

the island, conducted by one of the earees, whose name was Boba, and

were hospitably entertained by the people, who provided them with

victuals and lodging. The first night they were entertained with a play;

the second night their repose was disturbed by the natives stealing

their military chest: this put them on making reprisals, by which means

they recovered the most of what they had lost.

Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, I determined to

put to sea the next morning, and made the same known to the chief, who

promised to see me again before we departed. At four o’clock we began to

unmoor; and, as soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of his

friends, came on board. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs;

the latter they even begged of us to take from them, calling out _Tiyo

boa atoi_, I am your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe; but our

decks were already so full of them that we could hardly move, having on

board both ships between three and four hundred. By the increase of our

stock, together with what we had salted and consumed, I judge that we

got at this island four hundred or upwards: many, indeed, were only

roasters; others again weighed one hundred pounds, or upwards; but the

general run was from forty to sixty. It is not easy to say how many we

might have got, could we have found room for all that were offered us.

The chief and his friends did not leave me till we were under sail; and,

before he went away, pressed me much to know if I would not return, and

when? Questions which were daily put to me by many of these islanders.

My Otaheitean youth’s leaving me proved of no consequence, as many young

men of this island voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought

proper to take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years

of age, named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the

great Opoony, chief of that island. Soon after we were out of the

harbour, and had made sail, we observed a canoe following us, conducted

by two men. Whereupon I brought to, and they presently came along-side,

having brought me a present of roasted fruit, and roots, from Oreo. I

made them a proper return before I dismissed them, and then set sail to

the west, with the Adventure in company.

CHAP. XIV.

AN ACCOUNT OF A SPANISH SHIP VISITING OTAHEITE; THE PRESENT STATE OF THE

ISLANDS; WITH SOME OBSERVATIONS ON THE DISEASES AND CUSTOMS OF THE

INHABITANTS, AND SOME MISTAKES CONCERNING THE WOMEN CORRECTED.

I shall now give some farther account of these islands; for, although I

have been pretty minute in relating the daily transactions, some things,

which are rather interesting, have been omitted.

Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, we were informed that a ship, about

the size of the Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour near the

S. E. end of the island, where she remained about three weeks; and had

been gone about three months before we arrived. We were told that four

of the natives were gone away in her, whose names were Debedebea,

Paoodou, Tanadooee, and Opahiah. At this time we conjectured this was a

French ship; but on our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt she

was a Spaniard, which had been sent out from America. The Otaheiteans

complained of a disease communicated to them by the people in this ship,

which they said affected the head, throat, and stomach, and at length

killed them. They seemed to dread it much, and were continually

enquiring if we had it. This ship they distinguished by the name of

_Pahai no Pep-pe_ (ship of Peppe), and called the disease _Apa no

Pep-pe_, just as they call the venereal disease _Apa no Pretane_

(English disease), though they, to a man, say it was brought to the isle

by M. de Bougainville; but I have already observed that they thought M.

Bougainville came from _Pretane_, as well as every other ship which has

touched at the isle.

Were it not for this assertion of the natives, and none of Captain

Wallis’s people being affected with the venereal disease, either while

they were at Otaheite, or after they left it, I should have concluded

that, long before these islanders were visited by Europeans, this, or

some disease which is near akin to it, had existed amongst them; for I

have heard them speak of people dying of a disorder which we interpreted

to be the pox, before that period; but be this as it will, it is now far

less common amongst them than it was in the year 1769, when I first

visited these isles. They say they can cure it, and so it fully appears;

for, notwithstanding most of my people made pretty free with the women,

very few of them were afterwards affected with the disorder; and those

who were had it in so slight a manner that it was easily removed; but

amongst the natives, whenever it turns to a pox, they tell us it is

incurable. Some of our people pretend to have seen some of them who had

this last disorder in a high degree; but the surgeon, who made it his

business to enquire, could never satisfy himself in this point. These

people are, and were before the Europeans visited them, very subject to

scrophulous diseases; so that a seaman might easily mistake one disorder

for another.

The island of Otaheite which, in the years 1767 and 1768, as it were,

swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals,

that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. The few

they had at this time among them, seemed to be at the disposal of the

kings; for while we lay at Oaitipiha Bay, in the kingdom of Tiarrabou,

or lesser Peninsula, every hog or fowl we saw, we were told, belonged to

Waheatooa; and all we saw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater

Peninsula, belonged to Otoo. During the seventeen days we were at this

island, we got but twenty-four hogs; the half of which came from the two

kings themselves; and, I believe, the other half was sold us by their

permission or order: we were, however, abundantly supplied with all the

fruits the island produces, except bread-fruit, which was not in season

either at this or the other isles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were what we

got the most of; the latter, together with a few yams and other roots,

were to us a succedaneum for bread. At Otaheite we got great plenty of

apples, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them _Aheeya_. This

fruit was common to all the isles; but apples we got only at Otaheite,

and found them of infinite use to the scorbutic people. Of all the seeds

that have been brought to these islands by Europeans, none have

succeeded but pumpkins, and these they do not like; which is not to be

wondered at.

The scarcity of hogs at Otaheite may be owing to two causes; first, the

number which have been consumed and carried off by the shipping which

have touched here of late years; and, secondly, to the frequent wars

between the two kingdoms. We know of two since the year 1767: at present

a peace subsists between them, though they do not seem to entertain much

friendship for each other. I never could learn the cause of the late

war, nor who got the better in the conflict. In the battle, which put an

end to the dispute, many were killed on both sides. On the part of

Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, and several other chiefs, who were mentioned to

me by name. Toutaha lies interred in the family _marai_ at Oparree; and

his mother, and several other women who were of his household, are now

taken care of by Otoo the reigning prince; a man who, at first, did not

appear to us to much advantage. I know but little of Waheatooa of

Tiarrabou. This prince, who is not above twenty years of age, appeared

with all the gravity of a man of fifty. His subjects do not uncover

before him, or pay him any outward obeisance, as is done to Otoo;

nevertheless, they seem to show him full as much respect, and he

appeared in rather more state. He was attended by a few middle-aged or

elderly men, who seemed to be his counsellors. This is what appeared to

me to be the then state of Otaheite. The other islands, that is,

Huaheine, Ulietea, and Otaha, were in a more flourishing state than they

were when I was there before. Since that time, they had enjoyed the

blessing of peace; the people seemed to be as happy as any under heaven;

and well they may, for they possess not only the necessaries, but many

of the luxuries of life in the greatest profusion; and my young man told

me that hogs, fowls, and fruits are in equal plenty at Bola-bola, a

thing which Tupia would never allow. To clear up this seeming

contradiction, I must observe, that the one was prejudiced against, and

the other in favour of, this isle.

The produce of the islands, the manners and customs of the natives, &c.

having been treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it

will be unnecessary to take notice of these subjects in this, unless

where I can add new matter, or clear up any mistakes which may have been

committed.

As I had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs,

human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, I went one day

to a _Marai_ in Matavai, in company with Captain Furneaux; having with

us, as I had upon all other occasions, one of my men who spoke their

language tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom

appeared to be an intelligent, sensible man. In the _Marai_ was a

_Tupapow_, on which lay a corpse and some viands; so that every thing

promised success to my inquiries. I began with asking questions relating

to the several objects before me, if the plantains, &c. were for the

_Eatua_? If they sacrificed to the _Eatua_, hogs, dogs, fowls, &c. to

all of which he answered in the affirmative. I then asked, if they

sacrificed men to the _Eatua_? he answered, _Taata eno_; that is, bad

men they did, first _Tiparrahy_, or beating them till they were dead. I

then asked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? his answer

was, No, only _Taata eno_. I asked him, If any _Earees_ were? he said,

they had hogs to give to the _Eatua_, and again repeated _Taata eno_. I

next asked him, If _Towtows_, that is, servants or slaves, who had no

hogs, dogs, or fowls, but yet were good men, if they were sacrificed to

the _Eatua_? His answer was, No, only bad men. I asked him several more

questions, and all his answers seemed to tend to this one point, that

men for certain crimes were condemned to be sacrificed to the gods,

provided they had not wherewithal to redeem themselves. This, I think,

implies that, on some occasions, human sacrifices are considered as

necessary; particularly when they take such men as have, by the laws of

the country, forfeited their lives, and have nothing to redeem them; and

such will generally be found among the lower class of people.

The man of whom I made these inquiries, as well as some others, took

some pains to explain the whole of this custom to us; but we were not

masters enough of their language to understand them. I have since learnt

from Omai, that they offer human sacrifices to the Supreme Being.

According to his account, what men shall be so sacrificed, depends on

the caprice of the high priest, who, when they are assembled on any

solemn occasion, retires alone into the house of God, and stays there

some time. When he comes out he informs them, that he has seen and

conversed with their great God (the high priest alone having that

privilege), and that he has asked for a human sacrifice, and tells them

that he has desired such a person, naming a man present, whom most

probably the priest has an antipathy against. He is immediately killed,

and so falls a victim to the priest’s resentment, who, no doubt, (if

necessary) has address enough to persuade the people that he was a bad

man. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge that has

been obtained of their religion, has been from information; and as their

language is but imperfectly understood, even by those who pretend to the

greatest knowledge of it, very little on this head is yet known with

certainty.

The liquor which they make from the plant called _Ava ava_, is expressed

from the root, and not from the leaves, as mentioned in the narrative of

my former voyage. The manner of preparing this liquor is as simple as it

is disgusting to an European. It is thus: several people take some of

the root and chew it till it is soft and pulpy; then they spit it out

into a platter or other vessel, every one into the same; when a

sufficient quantity is chewed, more or less water is put to it,

according as it is to be strong or weak; the juice thus diluted is

strained through some fibrous stuff like fine shavings; after which it

is fit for drinking, and this is always done immediately. It has a

pepperish taste, drinks flat, and rather insipid. But though it is

intoxicating, I saw only one instance where it had that effect; as they

generally drink it with great moderation, and but little at a time.

Sometimes they chew this root in their mouths, as Europeans do tobacco,

and swallow their spittle; and sometimes I have seen them eat it wholly.

At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of this plant. At Otaheite

but very little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea, that

do not produce more or less of it; and the natives apply it to the same

use, as appears by Le Mair’s account of Horn Island, wherein he speaks

of the natives making a liquor from a plant in the same manner as above

mentioned.

Great injustice has been done to the women of Otaheite, and the Society

Isles, by those who have represented them, without exception, as ready

to grant the last favour to any man who will come up to their price. But

this is by no means the case: the favours of married women, and also the

unmarried of the better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here, as

in any other country whatever. Neither can the charge be understood

indiscriminately of the unmarried of the lower class, for many of these

admit of no such familiarities. That there are prostitutes here, as well

as in other countries, is very true, perhaps more in proportion, and

such were those who came on board the ships to our people, and

frequented the post we had on shore. By seeing these mix

indiscriminately with those of a different turn, even of the first rank,

one is, at first, inclined to think that they are all disposed the same

way, and that the only difference is in the price. But the truth is, the

woman who becomes a prostitute, does not seem, in their opinion, to have

committed a crime of so deep a dye as to exclude her from the esteem and

society of the community in general. On the whole, a stranger who visits

England might with equal justice, draw the characters of the women

there, from those which he might meet with on board the ships in one of

the naval ports, or in the purlieus of Covent Garden and Drury Lane. I

must, however, allow that they are all completely versed in the art of

coquetry, and that very few of them fix any bounds to their

conversation. It is, therefore, no wonder that they have obtained the

character of libertines.

To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative

of my former voyage, I shall now only add, that we found the latitude of

Oaiti-piha bay, in Otaheite, to be 17° 46ʹ 28ʺ south, and the longitude

0° 21ʹ 25-1/2ʺ east from Point Venus; or 149° 13ʹ 24ʺ west from

Greenwich. The difference both of latitude and longitude, between Point

Venus and Oaiti-piha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made

the circuit of the island in 1769, by two miles, and 4-3/4 miles

respectively. It is, therefore, highly probable that the whole island is

of a greater extent than I, at that time, estimated it to be. The

astronomers set up their observatory and made their observations on

Point Venus, the latitude of which they found to be 17° 29ʹ 13ʺ south.

This differs but two seconds from that which Mr. Green and I found; and

its longitude, viz. 149° 34ʹ 49-1/2ʺ west, for any thing that is yet

known to the contrary, is as exact.

Mr. Kendal’s watch was found to be gaining on mean time 8ʺ 163 per day,

which is only 0ʺ 142 less than at Queen Charlotte’s Sound, consequently

its error in longitude was trifling.