slippers are put on for the occasion; so soon as the lady returns to her
seat on the _satrinje_, or carpet, they are thrown aside. Such as are
formed without heels, and have the back part made to flatten down under
the foot, for that part is seldom, if ever, raised, are known by the
name of _k’hous_; while those made without any back-piece, the quarters
terminating under the ancles on each side, and that have raised heels,
to perhaps the height of an inch, are designated _chinauls_. In either
kind, as well as in the _jooties_ worn by men, the toe-part is
terminated by a long pointed strip, usually of leather lined with cloth,
that curls inwards over the toes; without this, the shoes would be
considered both unfinished, and vulgar. Men commonly wear only
embroidered shoes, but the women have frequently an abundance of various
colored foils, principally purple or green, fastened down to the body of
the vamp, (which is of some bright colored broad cloth,) and serving, by
the manner in which they are disposed, to fill up the pattern of the
embroidery: this may be either of gold or silver thread, or, perhaps,
very small bugles, not dissimilar to seed-pearls. Those who cannot
afford such decorations, which may raise the price of a pair of shoes to
about four or five rupees; content themselves with silken ornaments. The
low price of a pair of shoes ornamented as above described, cannot fail
to strike the reader, who will be yet more astonished to learn, that an
admirably well-dressed hide may be had in any part of the country for
less than five shillings; such as would sell with us for about thirty
shillings, or even more. Those stout shoes worn by our native soldiery,
rarely cost more than from four to eight annas the pair, (equal to from
eight to sixteen pence.) Neither men nor women use stockings; though,
during the winter months, the more opulent sometimes wear a short kind
of sock, called a _jooraub_, made of cotton, or of silk, perhaps both
intermixed, and of various colored patterns. These are remarkably thick,
but rarely reach above the ancle. Persons of the first rank, have their
_jooraubs_, as also their _dustannahs_, or gloves, made of shawl;
strange to say, these are usually of the form in use among us for
children; that is, they have a receptacle for the thumb, but the fingers
are all contained in the same bag, or _cyst_. It is, however, very
uncommon to see a woman, of whatever rank, wear gloves: this is, no
doubt, owing to the pride they take in their hands, which are invariably
ornamented with gold or silver rings, &c., to the utmost extent of their
purses. In fact, the whole attention of a Hindostanee woman, retained in
the family of an European, is directed towards the accumulation of
trinkets, which may be supposed to be tolerably expensive, when it is
understood that nothing less than solid silver is admissible. Gilt, or
plated, ornaments, are held to be disreputable, and unlucky; hence, the
_moolumbah_, or plating trade, is very little followed in India; though
the jewellers will sometimes pass off a coated, for a solid article;
especially in gold work.
The following are the ornaments chiefly worn by the Hindostanee ladies.
The _maung-teekah_, meaning the frontal, ornament, has usually a star,
or radiated centre, of about two inches in diameter, set in gold, and
richly ornamented with small pearls, of which, various chains are
attached, aiding to support it in its position; namely, on the centre of
the forehead. A triple, or quadruple, row of pearls, passes up the
centre of the _maung_, or front; the hair being divided, and kept down
very flat. The centre piece, (and, occasionally, each end piece also,)
is composed of precious stones, such as the topaz, the emerald, the
amethyst, the ruby, &c.: sometimes the centre is of one color, and all
the rays of some other; or perhaps the latter are alternate. The
_maung-teekah_, as may be judged from the above description, is not a
very light ornament, but is extremely splendid, and, being generally set
in gold, often very valuable: one of a very ordinary description will
cost full twelve or fifteen guineas, though composed of colored glass,
or chrystal, or foils: when made of precious stones, the price may reach
to any extent.
The _kurrum-phool_, is not unlike the centre piece of a _maung-teekah_,
and may be about the same size, though usually somewhat less in
diameter. This ornament is fastened to the lobe of the ear, both by the
usual mode of piercing, and by a chain of gold passing over the ear, so
as to bear the weight of the _kurrum-phool_; which would else cause the
lobe to be greatly extended downward. It is, however, to be remarked,
that most of the common women have large holes in that part of the ear,
wide enough to pass a finger through; and that even the higher orders
consider an aperture such as would admit a pea, rather honorable, than
otherwise; under the opinion of its indicating the great weight, and
consequent value, of their jewels.
The _joomkah_ is ever of solid gold, silver being in this absolutely
interdicted by the laws of taste; in framing which, pride seems to have
had no very small share. This ornament consists of a hollow hemisphere,
or bell, curiously fillagreed, and about three fourths of an inch in
diameter; the edges suspend small rods, or pendants of gold, each
furnished with one or more small pearls, garnets, &c.; perhaps to the
number of a dozen pendants being attached to the circumference of each
_joomkah_. The upper part is furnished with a small perforated stud,
sometimes ornamented, through which a ring, about the thickness of a
fine knitting-needle, and not less than half an inch in diameter, is
inserted; it previously passing through the ear in the part usually
pierced. This ring, as well as every other kind of fastening made to
pass through the ears, or nose, is made of the purest gold, and so
pliant as to allow the little hook made at one end, by bending the wire,
for the purpose of fixing into a minute loop, or eye, formed, at the
other end, by twisting it, to be straightened, at pleasure, by means of
the nail only.
European ladies content themselves with one appendage at each ear; while
the females of Hindostan think it impossible to have too many: thus,
they affix a number of small rings, of pure gold, or, in case of
poverty, of silver, or even of tin, all along the border of the ear;
which is pierced for that purpose in at least a dozen places, to receive
these ornaments, from which much distress often arises, owing to the
veil (already described) frequently hitching upon the small hooked ends
of the wire.
The nose has its share in the decorations of the Hindostanee fair, it
usually bearing two ornaments; one, called a _n’hut_, commonly passed
through the left nostril, consists only of a piece of gold wire, as
thick as a small knitting-needle, with the usual hook and eye, and
having the centre, or nearly so, furnished with several garnets, pearls,
&c. perhaps to the number of five or six, each parted from its neighbour
by a thin plate of gold, usually having serrated, or escaloped edges,
and being fixed transversely upon the wire, which passes through their
centres, as well as through the garnets, pearls, &c. The diameter of the
circle of a _n’hut_ may be, ordinarily, about two inches and a half. On
the coast of Coromandel, a similar ornament is worn by men of
respectability, in each ear.
The other nasal trinket is called a _bolauk_; it is flat, something in
the form of that article of furniture called a footman, and has a small
ring, with hook and eye, at its narrowest part, for the purpose of
appending it to the middle of the nose, by means of a gold ring passing
through the _septum_, or division between the nostrils; the ornament
lying flat upon the upper lip, and having its broad end furnished with
pendants, similar to those on a _joomkah_. It is inconceivable what some
women undergo for the sake of displaying their riches in this way! Not
only does the _bolauk_ interfere with the operations of the lips during
meals, but sores of the most unsightly description are often created, in
that very tender part to which the ornament attaches, by those
innumerable accidents, which not even the most constant vigilance can
prevent.
The neck is not forgotten among those lavish decorations of which the
sable ladies are so fond; it is furnished with various kinds of
necklace, of which I shall describe only the _chumpauk-gully_. This is
made of separate rays, each intended to represent a petal of the
_chumpauk_, (a flower indigenous throughout Asia,) and having a fixed
ring, or staple, at its butt, so that the whole may be strung close
together, perhaps to the number of forty pieces, or more. This ornament
is usually worn rather loose, that it may reach half way down the bosom.
The mounting is gold, or silver, according to the means of the wearer;
and the rays, or petals, are, in imitation of the _maung-teekah_; either
chrystals, set on foils, chiefly white; or they are precious stones, of
one color, throughout the ornament.
The _haunseah_ is a solid collar of gold, or silver, weighing from
perhaps, four ounces to near a pound. I have seen several that
approached the latter weight, and must have been highly oppressive to
the wearer; especially as they only came into use on high days and
holidays: the general standard may be computed at about six or seven
ounces. Being made of pure metal, they are easily bent, so as to be put
on and off. _Haunseahs_ are commonly square in front, under the chin,
for several inches, and taper off gradually to not more than half their
greatest diameter; terminating at each end with a small knob, cut into a
polygonal form: this ornament is sometimes carved in the Oriental style,
either for its whole length, or on the front part only.
Most of the Hindostanee women wear _tabeejes_, strung upon an assemblage
of black silk threads, passing round their necks, and reaching to their
middles: these _tabeejes_ are silver cases, enclosing either quotations
from the Koran, or some mystical writings, or some rubbish from the
animal or vegetable kingdom, but, I believe, never any _camphor_ (as
lately used by a celebrated English lady). Whatever the contents may be,
great reliance is placed on their efficacy in repelling disease, and in
averting the influence of witch-craft, (_j’haddoo_,) of which the people
of India, of every sect, entertain the most unlimited dread. Hence, it
is not uncommon to see half a dozen, or more, of these charms strung
upon the same threads.
The upper parts of the arms are adorned with semi-circular ornaments,
made hollow, but filled up with melted rosin; the ends are furnished
with loops of the same metal, generally silver, which admit silken
skeans, whereby they are secured to their places. The above trinket is
called a _baujoo-bund_.
The wrists are always profusely decorated: the more ordinary classes
wear rings made of _kaunch_, or _chank_; (_i.e._ the common sea-conch,
cut out, by means of very fine saws, into narrow slips which, when
joined very accurately, give the whole an appearance of being formed
from the most circular part of each shell. This is, indeed, sometimes
done; but such entire rings are very scarce, and are usually preserved
in their original pure whiteness with much assiduity. The city of Dacca,
so famous for its muslins, carries on a large intercourse with
Chittagong, and the coast of Aracan, for conchs, which are used for
beetling the finer cloths, manufactured in that populous and rich
emporium of cotton fabrics. The noise made by _chanking_ the cloths,
which, being laid many folds thick upon a large board, are beat with
_conchs_, wherein handles are inserted, is peculiarly distressing to an
unaccustomed ear; especially as the operation continues night and day,
without intermission: to those interested in the trade, it may perhaps
be highly agreeable! The small process, or button, at the base of each
shell, is sawn off, and, after being ground to a shape resembling that
of a flat turnip, is perforated, for the purpose of being strung. When
so prepared, these receive the name of _kuntahs_; of which, two rows,
each containing from thirty to forty, are worn round the neck of every
Sepoy in the Company’s service, as a part of his uniform. This simple
ornament affords a pleasant relief to the sable countenance of a native,
and serves to fill up a space, that would otherwise appear extremely
naked, between the collar-bones and the chin.
The rings made from the sea-conch, are called _kaunch ke t’choory_, or
_t’choories_ made of conch; in contra-distinction to a common kind of
_t’choories_, made, by persons who follow that profession only, from a
species of silicious clay, which speedily vitrifies, forming a
semi-transparent mass, that is worked into rings of about a line in
diameter; but having rather quadrangular than circular surfaces; so that
the inner circumference may be rather easy to the wrist, and the upper
part, (or outer circumference,) be sufficiently flat to exhibit various
embellishments, given by aid of gold leaf, and little enamelled, or
lacquered specks, &c., applied thereto, and afterwards burnt in. It is
inconceivable how expert the women who vend the _t’choories_, and who
are thence called _t’chooríaens_, are in applying these ornaments;
which, after being once passed over the hand, often are found to fit the
wrist admirably: persons unacquainted with the dexterity of these women,
would, on seeing the rings before they were on, consider it impossible
to get the hand through; yet, by means of a little oil, or even of
water, and compressing the very flexible member into a suitable form,
the rings are successively made to glide over the joints with tolerable
facility; very few, in proportion, being broken during the operation. It
is to be remarked, that, as probably forty or fifty _t’choories_ are to
be worn upon each wrist, those appropriated to the thicker part of the
arm, being, of course, the first to pass, the hand becomes gradually
suppled, and disposed to receive each succeeding ring, which is
imperceptibly of less diameter than its predecessor. To say the most of
_t’choories_, they have a very heavy appearance, and are always highly
uncomfortable to Madam’s most intimate acquaintances, in consequence of
their being peculiarly brittle.
Some ladies wear a massy ring of solid silver on each wrist, weighing,
perhaps, from three to five ounces: these are commonly hexagonal, or
octagonal, of an equal thickness throughout, and terminated by a knob at
each end, the same as in the _haunseah_. Being of pure silver, this
ornament, which is called a _kurrah_, may be opened sufficiently to be
put on, or off, at pleasure; the ends being brought together by an easy
pressure of the other hand.
A bracelet, formed of small pointed prisms of solid silver, each about
the size of a very large barley-corn, and having a ring soldered to one
of its sides is in very common use. These prisms are strung upon black
silk, as close as their pointed, or perhaps rounded, ends will admit, in
three or four parallel rows, and then fastened, the same as the
_baujoo-bund_. Some of the bracelets, which bear the general name of
_poanҫhies_, are of gold, intermixed with pearls; affording a very rich
appearance: they are certainly more ornamental than _t’choories_, which
are, in the end, very expensive, on account of the immense numbers that
give way in the wearing.
The thumb of each hand is generally destined to bear an ornament called
_inah_, (or looking-glass,) formed of a ring fitting upon the thumb, and
having a small mirror, about the size of a half-penny, fixed upon it by
the centre, so as to accord with the back of the thumb. Each finger is
provided with its quota of _angooties_, or rings, of various sorts and
sizes, generally of gold; those of silver being considered mean. The
_inah_ should correspond in this particular; but, on account of the
quantity of gold required wherein to set the glass, many content
themselves with silver mounting. That a small looking-glass may, at
times, be commodiously situated at the back of the thumb, we will not
dispute; but what shall we say to that preposterous custom, which I have
absolutely witnessed, of wearing a similar ornament on each great toe!!!
A lady, at all priding herself on the splendor of her dress, must have a
pair of very substantial _kurrahs_, or rings of silver, not weighing
less than half a pound each, upon her ancles. She must also have a pair
of _paum-jebs_, made flexible, and ornamented with little spherical
bells, all of which tinkle at every motion of the limb. The ordinary
pattern of the _paum-jeb_, is mural, each piece being kept in its place
by wires, passing through its two ends vertically. The toes have
likewise their rings, called _chellahs_, usually of about the fifth of
an inch in breadth and very thin; these have, for the most part, beaded
edges.
The women of Portugueze extraction, wear their hair in a large top knot,
secured by an immense silver pin, or rather a skewer; the broad part of
which is either fillagreed, enamelled, or engraved. The Hindostanee
ladies wear no ornament of that description; they comb down their
frontal hair, while abundantly moistened with _tissy_, that is, the
mucilage obtained by steeping linseed in a small quantity of water; and
causing it to part from the centre in two diverging sweeps, or
crescents, that come down to the exterior corners of the eye-brows,
falling in immediately above the ears, they thus render the whole
smooth, compact, and glossy. All the hair appertaining to the hinder
part of the head, is braided together for its whole length, and
ultimately blended with black ribbon; which continues the braid for many
inches, or even for a foot or more, so as to render it doubtful, at a
certain distance, whether the hair does not occupy the whole length.
This is a point of the utmost importance with a native lady, who values
her locks beyond even her virtue. Whether it were the cause, or the
effect, is difficult to say; but certain it is, that, one of the
greatest punishments a judge can inflict on a woman, is to have her head
shaved. Query, Did their high estimation of the hair, induce to making
its privation a punishment? or, did that estimation take place, in
consequence of the want of hair being considered disgraceful? I am
inclined to favor the first opinion. It is very common for a native to
cause the hair of his _baundy_, or female slave, to be taken off, for
any trifling offence.
Coral beads are in high estimation throughout Hindostan, as applicable
to the construction of necklaces and bracelets for women.
Notwithstanding they are manufactured from the red coral, fished up in
various parts of Asia, these beads are very costly, especially when they
run to any size. They are generally sold by the sicca-weight, or
_tolah_; that is, by their weight in silver, two and a half rupees
weighing about one ounce; or eighty to the seer of nearly two pounds
avoirdupoise. A _tolah_ of high colored, sound beads, as large as a
marrow-fat pea, may commonly be had for about three, or four, rupees;
sometimes cheaper: consequently, an ounce of coral beads, called
_moongahs_, will cost near a guinea. This, which is four times the value
of silver, appears to be a high price, considering the low wages of
laborers, and proves that coral cannot be advantageously imported from
India to England. The ladies of Asia are very particular in often
steeping their _moongahs_ in pigeon’s blood; under the firm belief of
their color being heightened by such immersions! This recipe may,
however, be matched by many, of equal efficacy, highly valued among
ourselves.
The lowest, and most poverty-struck woman in Bengal, would consider
herself truly wretched if she could not, now and then, anoint her head
with oil, of some kind. The ladies of affluence invariably use scented
oils, of which those impregnated with the bale, the jasmine, and sandal,
are most in use. Doubtless, custom reconciles ‘the rancid fragrance’ to
the nostrils of an Asiatic; but, to an European, nothing can be more
offensive. A full dressed Hindostanee lady is the living type of that
sarcastic couplet of Swift.
‘Enrich’d with all the gay perfume,
She wafts a stench around the room.’
The sale of these oils, as also of the _missy_, which is applied by both
sexes to their teeth, and, by forming a black coating, or varnish, is
supposed to preserve their enamel from the action of the lime contained
in the _pawn_, or beetle, they generally chew, as also of the _soormah_,
or levigated antimony, used for blackening the edges of the eye-lids,
together with a variety of rubbish, is confined to a class of men called
_gundies_, who carry their ware about in small baskets. The oils, and
especially the _utr_, or _ottah_ of roses, are very carefully packed in
cotton-wool, and every pretence is made of their being of great value.
It is wonderful what deceptions this class of hawkers practise! They are
most consummate in the arts of flattery and intrigue; from the exercise
of one or the other, not unfrequently of both conjoined, they could not
fail to become very rich, did they not generally lead most dissipated
lives, and often take payment _in kind_ for their wares.
With respect to the perfumed oils in common use among the Hindostanee
ladies, their preparation is very easy; being, for the most part, merely
sweet oils of any kind; such as that extracted from linseed, or from the
cocoa-nut, or from any plant coming under the denomination of _metah_,
(_i.e._ sweet,) perfumed by means of a small quantity of the essential
oil of any fragrant flower, particularly the rose, the jasmine, the
bale, &c. All these oils are extremely common, rarely selling for more
than two or three rupees per seer; which corresponds with about seven
shillings for an English quart.
That highly fragrant oil extracted from the rose, called _attar_, or by
us _ottah_, is by no means so common as might be expected, at least not
in perfection: as to reputed _attar_, that may be had of every _gundy_,
and at even a few annas per _tolah_ (or half ounce weight). Genuine
_attar_ can only be had of particular persons, and then at a very high
price; commonly about four guineas, (_i.e._ two gold mohurs) per ounce.
The natives, for many years, pretended to make a great secret of the
process whereby this valuable oil was extracted; whence they not only
retained the whole profit to themselves, but were enabled to practise
various deceptions of great advantage to themselves but extremely
injurious to the extract.
Although many gentlemen had occasionally endeavored to ascertain the
proportions used by the venders of _attar_, it was not until about the
year 1781, or 1782, that any attempt was made, on an extensive scale, to
competite with that class of distillers. The late Lieutenant-Colonel
Anthony Polier, who resided for many years at his beautiful villa, some
miles from Lucknow, was, I believe, the first whose researches included
the distillation of _attar_, in which pursuit he was remarkably
successful; considering how much intrigue, corruption, and ignorance he
had to contend with, I have heard that gentleman declare, that, in
almost every train of experiments he undertook, some latent opposition
was sure to prevail; often baffling every effort, and sometimes
compelling him to abandon his design.