FIELD OF EXTINCT VOLCANOES. OASIS OF YOOR ERAIN MAROO.

Singular and interesting indeed is the wild scenery in the vicinity of

the treacherous oasis of Sultelli. A field of extinct volcanic cones,

vomited forth out of the entrails, of the earth, and encircled each by a

black belt of vitrified lava, environs it on three sides; and of these,

Mount Abida, three thousand feet in height, whose yawning cup, enveloped

in clouds, stretches some two and half miles in diameter, would seem to

be the parent. Beyond, the still loftier crater of Aiulloo, the ancient

landmark of the now decayed empire of Ethiopia, is visible in dim

perspective; and looming hazily in the extreme distance, the great blue

Abyssinian range towards which the steps of the toil-worn wayfarers were

directed--now for the first time visible--arose in towering grandeur to

the skies.

Overwhelmed by violent subterranean convulsion and commotion, which,

reversing the order of things, has again and again altered the former

appearance, the face of the country for miles around the base of the

larger volcanoes, presents one sheet of lava. Activity would not appear

to have extended much beyond the immediate neighbourhood of each; but

there is a connection between the whole cluster visible in small lava

streams and a vast quantity of volcanic debris, converted into humus, in

the adjacent valleys. Yet it is by no means apparent that these alone

have contributed to form the present surface, the south-eastern side of

the field terminating in much older formation of wacke. Neither would

any one of the craters appear to have very lately poured out the fiery

stream. Ibrahim Shehem Abli indeed deposed with an oath to having seen

Father Abida in flames about twelve years previously; but, on further

investigation, there seemed reason to believe that the conflagration he

witnessed must have been confined to the long grass with which portions

of the steep sides are clothed.

The well-timed deluge of rain which fell during the night had been so

eagerly drunk by the thirsty desert, that when the morning dawned the

only traces of the storm were presented in numberless channels left by

the torrent, with here and there a muddy pool, around which the

guinea-fowl were still rallying in clamorous troops. Every portion of

the road having been saturated, and rendered far too heavy for the jaded

camels, advance was of necessity delayed until noon, by which time they

had become sufficiently dry to admit of the resumption of the journey.

A bare alluvial plain, skirting the base of the Koomi range, led to a

few acacia trees of larger growth than had heretofore been seen. They

occupied a hollow styled Ras Mittur, which is the point of union of the

two roads from Killulloo, and hence the caravan struck off across a

grassy plain, abounding in herds of graceful _mhorr_. The course

followed the eastern border of the field of truncated cones; and in the

fresh green hue of the bushes with which the cindery tract is studded,

was afforded abundant proof of the fertility of its decomposed lava.

Passing a cluster of Bedouin huts, whose inmates were watching their

grazing herds of milch camels, the road next threaded a narrow belt of

verdant jungle. This suddenly opened into the wide plain of Moolu,

studded in every direction with flocks of sheep and goats, assembled

from all parts of the country round; and in a deep hollow in the very

centre lay the attraction--the oasis of Yoor Erain Maroo, a noble sheet

of water surrounded by a belt of hillocks, and measuring during even

this season of drought, a full mile in diameter. It was indeed a sight

most refreshing to the eye. Troops of waterfowl of various plumage

sailed over its glassy surface. Birds chattered amongst the autumnal

branches of the numerous trees, whose tall stems, half immersed, rose

thickly in the centre, and the cool waters of the basin afforded to the

weary and travel-stained pilgrims the first unlimited supply of pure

liquid that had been revelled in since bidding adieu to the shores of

India.

In so sultry a land, where, throughout the desert and forbidding plain.

Nature has dispensed the first necessary of life with a most niggard

hand, those pools which have not a constant supply of running water soon

become adulterated by various decompositions of organic and inorganic

matter. Wacke cannot resist any long exposure, and hence fluid in

contact with it imbibes oxide of iron and muriate of soda; whilst flocks

and herds, corrupting the element in a still more offensive manner, not

only impart a fetid taste and smell, but stir up the deposited mud,

which emits a volume of sulphuretted hydrogen. Yoor Erain Maroo was

free from all these impurities, and its reservoir affords a

never-failing supply; but the surrounding country is said during the wet

season to be extremely unhealthy, violent storms and incessant rain

compelling the shepherds to abandon the plains and wadies, and retreat

with their flocks to the neighbouring mountains.

From Waramilli to Moolu, the country is chiefly occupied by the

sub-tribes of Debeni, under the chiefs Beedur and Boo Bekr Sumbhool, the

latter of whom usually resides at Hamoosa, and the former at Doomi or

Sultelli. Although not always to be trusted, these wanderers appear

under a friendly garb; but the lion-hearted guides and escort, with

Izhak at their head, had, from the first moment of leaving Killulloo,

been doing their utmost to impress upon the minds of their audience the

extreme danger to be apprehended on this portion of the road, from the

various wild hordes now adjacent, whom they painted as perfect

dare-devils.

"The Galla are pagans," quoth Ibrahim Shehem Abli with a bigoted sneer,

"and, uncircumcised knaves that they are, never heard either of Allah or

the Holy Prophet; and as for the Mudaito, although nominally Moslems,

they have little more religion than their infidel neighbours. But wait

until I get an opportunity," he added, with a caper and a sardonic grin,

as he unsheathed his creese for the purpose of going through the figure

of disembowelment, "only wait until I find an opportunity, and,

_Inshallah_, we shall square accounts."

Many were the harrowing tales that had been called to mind by the first

loom of the Abyssinian mountains, touching the toil-worn traveller, who,

having surmounted all the perils and privations of the road, and arrived

within sight of the promised land, had been cut off at the very last

step towards the goal. Perpetual strife is waged betwixt the Galla and

Mudaito, and the plain of Moolu forming a sort of neutral ground between

the countries inhabited by the rival clans, it proves one continual

scene of foray and bloodshed. The heathen, watching like hawks from the

tops of trees and eminences, pounce, whenever opportunity offers, upon

the flocks and herds of the true believers: retaliation is not slow to

follow, and thus the feud is well and incessantly sustained.

During the latter part of the march, the Ras el Kafilah was nearly

thrown into hysterics by the sudden desertion of one of his charge, who,

in defiance of the thraldom, which rendered all more like prisoners than

freemen, had made up his mind to dine that night upon venison, and had

accordingly taken up arms against the alluring herds of sleek and timid

antelope that, with white discs on their cruppers, bounded in all

directions before the advancing string of camels. Repeated

interrogatories of "_Fein toro_?" "whither are you going?" were launched

in a commanding tone of voice after the truant, without eliciting the

smallest attention or reply. A shot was fired--a fat buck fell--and the

successful Nimrod, dismounting, proceeded to secure the spoils; an

operation which brought from their occupation in the adjacent pasture,

two ancient Bedouin crones in wrinkles and leathern aprons, to be

spectators of the dissection.

Izhak was old and captious, and not seeing very clearly, the apparition

was too much for his shattered nerves. "Allah, Allah!" he peevishly

exclaimed, seizing his broad-headed spear from the hand of his henchman,

and violently kicking the flanks of his jaded mule towards the spot;

"merciful Providence, what childish folly is this? Is the commander a

babe that he thus trifles with the safety of the caravan? I did fancy

that he possessed some sense, but this is positively the act of a

madman. Look at those Buddoos, they will cut his throat immediately,

and then we shall have a pretty blood feud, involving the lives of half

a dozen Danakil."

Despite of all the twaddling old blockhead could do to prevent it, the

haunch was nevertheless brought in, and its appearance hailed with

considerable delight. But it might almost as well have been abandoned

to the vultures of the air, since the Persian cook, who had taken alarm

at the menace extended to Quilp in the prosecution of his kennel duties,

peremptorily refused to convert the venison into _kababs_, upon the

grounds that the knife of the true believer had not passed across the

throat of the victim.

"Whose dog is Hajji Abdallah Kurmani?" he exclaimed in tones that might

have been believed to issue from a dilapidated bagpipe; "whose dog is

he, I repeat," throwing the haunch upon the ground, "that he should be

invited to deal with any such abomination? Allah and his Prophet defend

us, but the Hajji would as soon think of polluting himself with the

touch of the unclean beast."

This spirited public declaration was by the Moslem audience received

with the rapturous applause it claimed; and the worthy pilgrim, fairly

carried away by the over-boiling of his virtuous indignation, was

actually proceeding to wreak his last vengeance upon the venison, when

arbitrary measures were adopted, which resulted in the imposition of

twenty-four hours' fast in excess of the many inflicted by the apostle

whose shrine he had visited at the holy city.

Now the Hajji bore a striking personal resemblance to Hudibras, and like

that hero, regarded discretion as being the better part of valour.

Since the melancholy disaster at Goongoonteh, he had encumbered himself

with a musket and a modicum of cartridges; but even by his warmest

admirers it must be confessed that there had never in his demeanour been

observed the slightest indication of a design to throw himself away by

rash exposure. Entertaining the highest respect for himself, the

prudent son of Iran was rarely heard to speak of Hajji Abdallah save in

the respectful third person singular. The words of Ibrahim Shehem had

sunk deep into his soul, and after the affair of the venison, it was not

a little diverting to hear him, in his wonted croaking accents,

apostrophise the folly and the infatuation which had prompted him to

brave the wilds of unexplored Africa.

"Hajji Abdallah was never taxed with lack of common sense," he exclaimed

musingly in self-reproach. "Allah knows there be many greater

blockheads in this sublunary world than his servant the Hajji. Is it

not wonderful that the chief cook to Khwajah Mohammad Rahim Khan

Shirazi, and master, too, of recipes for no fewer than nine-and-thirty

pilaos, should have proven himself such an ass, such a son of a burnt

father, as voluntarily to get in the way of abuse for refusing to

_kabab_ unhallowed meat which died without the knife or the Bismillah;

and, worse still, in the way of having his own throat divided every

minute of each day and night by these bloodthirsty infidels? `_La houl

willah koowut illah billah ali ul-azeem_,' `there is no power nor virtue

save in God.' What true believer in the fair province of Kurman would

ever have suspected Hajji Abdallah of bringing his beard to so vile a

market?"

Volume One, Chapter XXXI.

The Highlands of Ethiopia · 第 25 / 130 题