Winter amusements—The opera and French theatre—Hamlet—A
true Russian play—Corruption of the police—Anecdotes—The
hermitage—The museum—Dinner-parties—Russian hospitality—Want of
information—The censor’s office: its restrictions.
The winter amusements in St. Petersburg are the same as those of other
capitals during the season—the opera, French theatre, balls, concerts,
_bals masqués_, &c. The opera is of course an Italian one, and the same
artistes perform there as in London. I was once at the opera when the
Emperor thought proper to applaud the cantatrice (Castellan I believe)
by clapping his hands; he had no sooner done so than somebody hissed;
he again showed his approbation—the unknown hissed a second time; his
Majesty stood up and looked round on the assembled multitude, and the
third time gave his applause; he was answered in the same manner as
before. I soon after heard a terrible scuffle overhead; the police had
discovered the hardy offender, and quickly dragged him out of the house:
I never learnt what became of him; doubtless he was made to repent that
he had dared to have an opinion different from that of the Czar.
A gentleman in our box suggested that it _must_ be a foreigner, for no
_Russian subject_ would have dared to act so.
The French theatre is extremely good; all the best artistes from Paris
are engaged for the season at enormous salaries. We were informed that
his Majesty once said to the Director that “he was one of his best
friends, because he amused society.” A great deal more was perhaps _sous
entendu_ than the mere words expressed. It is certain that, as long as
the government can get the people (that is the upper classes—there are no
“gods” in Russia) to wrangle and quarrel about the merits of an actress
or a singer, instead of thinking upon what great events are passing
around them, it is safe enough, and security is worth purchasing at
any rate. This last winter, as _very_ extraordinary affairs were being
transacted, Madlle. Rachel was imported: I forget the exact amount she
received, but the diamonds and jewels with which she was presented were
of enormous value, and her performance, the Czar’s generosity, and her
_conduct_ furnished all the nobility and gentry with a fruitful theme of
conversation. As the climax to all the compliments paid this actress,
the Emperor did the _Empress_ the _honour_ of presenting Madlle. Rachel
to her, and gracefully led her to his consort’s presence. Madlle.
Rachel in return wrote a flourishing letter to the Emperor (a copy of
which was shown me), containing innumerable highflown compliments on
his might and power, and she spoke of the tears of gratitude she shed
on her return to her lodgings, &c.: it was handed round with about as
much reverence as we should do an autograph epistle of Shakspere or of
Alfred the Great. Doubtless, the great tragedian laughed heartily at it
all, and thought the Russians a set of dupes. As politics are dangerous
subjects to talk about, and as people must have something to converse
on, the actors and actresses take the place of “whigs and tories;” their
performance, of some “new measure;” their manners and conduct, of “new
bills and reforms;” and the news of a fresh play, of “a change in the
ministry.” English people can only wonder how a society such as that in
St. Petersburg can employ all their energies about such absurdities.
There are translations of _some_ of Shakspere’s plays performed; the
two most frequently witnessed are Hamlet and King Lear; the class of
shopkeepers, who may be called the _people_ in Russia, for the others are
mere serfs, are those by whom they are chiefly appreciated, and Shakspere
is reverenced by most of them nearly as much as in England, although
they have read his works only in a translation; perhaps at some future
time his lofty thoughts will have a good effect upon their opinions
and conduct. When I was at Twer I saw the part of Hamlet exceedingly
well performed by a young actor, and the audience, even in this small
provincial town, seemed thoroughly to appreciate it. I once went to a
shop in St. Petersburg, when I remarked to a lady who was with me “that
the proprietor much resembled the portraits of Shakspere;” although
the remark was made in French, the shopkeeper understood it, and to
my astonishment made me a low bow and thanked me. It was only a small
fruit-shop, and we neither of us had the least idea that he had ever
heard the poet’s name.
Such of Shakspere’s plays as Julius Cæsar, and others containing
sentiments of freedom, are not permitted to be performed, and are not
even translated.
The Russian stage is very destitute of good pieces, but I saw one which,
being truly national, may serve to give an idea of their plays. It was
the best I ever witnessed on the Russian stage, and it gives too true
a picture of the unjust extortion and bribery which are also truly
national, for they pervade all ranks in an equal degree. I was in perfect
astonishment that the piece was allowed to be played at all; one would
think that pride alone would have prevented such an exposure of their
prevailing vice to the foreigners with whom the capital is crowded.
It was called the ‘_Reviseur_,’ that being the title of an officer sent
from time to time into the provinces to examine into the state of the
government, and to report concerning the manner in which it is carried on.
The play opened by a domestic scene, in which the police-master, his wife
and daughter, are all eagerly conversing on the shortly-expected visit
of the _Reviseur_, and we are let into the secret of various amiable
weaknesses and domestic plans to keep up an appearance of propriety,
in the midst of which the elder lady suddenly sees a carriage pass,
which she is sure can be no other than that of the great man himself.
An extraordinary bustle ensues: the police-master, in all haste, gives
various absurd orders to the _employés_ under him, one of which is that
“the soldiers should not on any account be seen without their coats,
as it would be then discovered that they had no shirts on,”—the money
furnished by the crown for providing them has of course been pocketed by
himself and the colonel. After taking all the precautions he can think
of, he hastens to inform the other principal men of the arrival of the
Reviseur.
The next scene introduces us to the servant of the supposed functionary,
who is no Reviseur at all, but a poor gentleman who is running away
from St. Petersburg, on account of certain bills which he has not the
means of paying. The miserable lodging, and the hungry lamentations of
the unlucky servant, give us to understand the state of his master’s
finances, that he has actually expended the very last of his cherished
rubles, nor does there appear to be any probability of his purse being
replenished: how they will be enabled to continue the journey is a
_casse-tête_. Thereupon the master himself enters, and, being quite as
famished as his man, orders him to go and get something for dinner, for
it appears he has been to an eating-house, and they refused to give him
credit. The servant refuses to go without the money. At last, with the
help of a great deal of blustering, he is persuaded to “try his luck:”
he soon returns; he has been successful in some measure, for he is
accompanied by the boy from the cook-shop, who has brought two dishes
and—_the bill_. The savoury smell of the soup and beef drives the hungry
pair almost mad, but the purse, unlike that of Fortunatus, is as empty
as their stomachs, and, unless the boy gets the money, he is ordered by
no means to leave the dinner. Now, here was a dreadful dilemma; but in
the midst of it the police-master arrives: the distressed traveller is in
fearful trouble, for he is convinced that the dreaded officer is come to
arrest him; “he has doubtless heard of his flight from St. Petersburg,
and has received orders to take him prisoner.” The police-master, on his
side, is equally sure that he is in the presence of the real Reviseur,
but that he travels thus in disguise that he may take them unawares, and
so detect their numerous acts of dishonesty and corruption: consequently,
a most laughable dialogue ensues—the official trembles as he addresses
the supposed great man, and is ready to cringe in the dust at his feet.
At last the latter begins to see “which way the wind blows,” and,
perceiving to what profit he may turn the mistake, informs the other as
a very great secret that he is really the Reviseur, and compliments him
on his extreme penetration, which alone could have discovered him under
such a disguise. No sooner has he done so than the police-master slips
an excessively heavy purse into his hand, the contents of which have
been furnished by himself and the other chief government officers, to
blind his eyes, and to act as golden spectacles. Here the boy from the
cook-shop re-enters to be paid for the dinner; the traveller takes out
his newly-acquired riches, and is on the point of paying for it, when
the police-master politely interferes, and orders the boy to put it down
“to his account;” the latter casts a terrified look at the two, and,
seeing what a powerful friend his customer has acquired, rushes off in
extreme dismay. The official, then turning to the traveller, expresses
the hope that they shall have the honour of his company at his house, and
respectfully begs permission to write a few words to his wife to inform
her of the intended visit; on its being graciously accorded, he sits
down and indites a note, in which he bids her strain every nerve for the
reception of the distinguished guest, for that she was quite right, it
was really the Reviseur that she had seen.
In the following scene the wife and daughter are gravely consulting
concerning the toilet proper for the occasion, as they have some sly
matrimonial designs on the stranger’s heart. The police-master returns
home accompanied by all the chief officials in the place; they have
been all “oppressors and unjust judges alike,” and every scheme is
canvassed to ensure concealment. The soi-disant Reviseur arrives, and is
received with all the slavish obsequiousness of which only _Russians_
are capable. The poor shopkeepers, who come, according to the national
custom, to present the bread and salt, and who have been fleeced by the
authorities, are summarily dismissed, and can obtain no hearing for their
complaints. As for the supposed Reviseur, he knows well the character of
his countrymen, and takes care to profit by it by receiving bribes from
every one. The inferior officers, whose turn to be introduced is not yet
arrived, are all assembled outside the door, determined to listen to what
is going on, and to see as much as the keyhole will permit them. Their
anxiety is so great that they push the door down and roll over each other
on the floor, to the great damage of their noses. Order being restored,
the Reviseur gives audience to one at a time: they have received such
severe contusions in the fall that most of them have patches on, and
one has a black one covering the whole of his nose. Each gives a bribe
to the great man, according to his rank: a great deal of laughter is
produced by the one with the black nose not being able to find more than
eightpence; but the Reviseur takes it, being resolved to get all he can.
After all these people are dismissed there is a grand flirtation with the
police-master’s daughter, whose visions of a splendid match can only be
equalled by the exultation of the mother.
Having obtained as much as he can, our traveller thinks it “high time to
be off,” lest by any untoward chance his deception should be discovered.
He pockets the money, in all eight hundred roubles, protests his entire
satisfaction of everything, his eternal devotion to the daughter, and
his fixed intention of shortly returning to marry her, in the midst of
which the kabitka drives up to the door; he takes his leave, and the
traveller’s bell is soon heard; everybody runs to the window to take a
last look at the retreating sledge; the tinkling of the bell becomes
fainter, and the act is finished.
The last act opens with a scene between the police-master and the
shopkeepers, whom he most bitterly upbraids for daring to complain of
his oppression, and refuses to be pacified until they have promised to
send him various valuable offerings, so many arsheens of cloth, and so
on, to act as peace-makers. At last, on this consideration, he consents
to “think no more of it,” and the poor people take their leave. They are
replaced by the numerous friends of the family, who have heard of the
intended marriage, and have come to congratulate them upon it. A shower,
or rather a deluge, of compliments greets them on all sides, in the
midst of which the police-master sneezes. When such an accident occurs,
the Russians always exclaim, “_I wish you well_.” It may therefore be
imagined what a chorus of voices, each desirous to be remarked above the
other; is heard simultaneously. Various grand plans are discussed for the
future couple, and the whole family seem ready to die with triumphant
exultation, when in comes the postmaster so much out of breath that he
cannot speak. On recovering his voice he informs them that he has opened
the letter that the traveller had forwarded to St. Petersburg, that he is
no Reviseur, and that he had turned them all into ridicule, calling them
asses, dupes, and fools, and had given a detailed account of everything
that had passed. The distress of the whole company is inconceivable; the
police-master is frantic with despair, the daughter and mother faint, the
ladies scream, the confusion becomes greater and greater the more they
have time to reflect on their position. In the midst of all this terror,
consternation, recrimination, and misfortune, enters a chasseur, who
announces that the _real Reviseur_ has just arrived. Their despair is now
excessive; it becomes deeper and deeper, whereupon the curtain drops and
leaves them to their fate.
The acting was admirable throughout. I forget the name of the artiste who
performed the first character, but he did it in a manner beyond praise.
The comic actors in Russia are excellent; there are not many first-rate
actresses; Mlle. Samoiloff was the best—she has since quitted the stage.
Perhaps it may be thought that the preceding play is but a burlesque, an
extremely exaggerated picture of what really passes in Russia. Far from
it. The Count Z. was sitting next to me, and we were conversing upon the
excessive truth of the whole, when Madame P. turned and entreated us,
“pour l’amour de Dieu,” not to pass such remarks, for if we were heard we
might have a visit from the police before the next morning; so we waited
until we returned home, when every one acknowledged that the picture was
by no means overdrawn.
We were once staying at the house of a provincial governor, and had many
opportunities of hearing and knowing what was going on. The police-master
was a colonel in rank; the pay that he received from the government
was not _forty pounds per annum_, yet he kept a carriage, four horses,
two footmen, and a coachman; his wife was always extravagantly dressed;
she had two or three children, and of course a maid and a cook, added
to which she paid a visit every season to the capital. On my expressing
wonder as to what miracle enabled him to support his family in such
luxury, when it was well known to everybody that he had no estates
and nothing besides his pay, I was told a little anecdote of him that
deserves to be recorded, if it be only to show to British tradesmen
that their brethren in Russia have a worse incubus than that of _taxes_
weighing on their hearts.
On one occasion the Colonel was going to St. Petersburg, but he had not
a ruble in his purse, and how to find the money to defray the expenses
of the journey was a question. He was not long in solving it, for he hit
upon the following plan. There happened to be a rich iron-merchant in the
town; he called on him and ordered an immense number of poods of iron to
be supplied for the use of the government. To what earthly use could a
police-master put all this iron? The poor merchant knew very well that
iron was not the metal he wanted, and was glad to compromise the affair
by begging his acceptance of a good round sum of silver rubles instead.
As for the poods of iron, they peaceably continued to repose in the
store, and our “_brave homme_” went and enjoyed himself very much in the
capital.
Scores of similar anecdotes have fallen under my knowledge in every
province in which I have resided. It was no longer an enigma to me
in what way a police-master’s carriage and horses were paid for. I
remember going with a friend to the Persian shop in the Galitzin Gallery
in Moscow. Whilst we were there a servant came in and ordered several
silk dresses of the kind called canaouse to be sent to the house of the
police-master. Never shall I forget the rueful look of the poor Persian
as he gave them into the man’s hand, for he well knew that payment was
out of the question: he might send in the bill, which would be laid on
the table and postponed _sine die_, but he could not refuse to send the
dresses for fear of the consequences, as very likely some pretext would
soon be found for ordering his shop to be shut up.
The Palace of the Hermitage is a place of great interest, and contains
various beautiful vases in malachite, lapis lazuli, jasper, &c., of great
value. There is one enormous vase, I forget of what stone: it is of an
oval shape, and measures twenty feet in diameter. These objects are the
work of criminals, and are brought from the Ural Mountains and Siberia.
The apartments are very fine; the floors are particularly worthy of
attention, being curiously and most elaborately inlaid. The gallery of
paintings is good; those by Sneyder are excellent. I saw here Brulof’s
‘Last Days of Pompeii,’ but it certainly did not answer the expectations
I had formed of it from the immense praise previously bestowed upon it
by my friends. The Russians used to boast that he was the first artist
in Europe, but everything in Russia is “the first,” according to their
own account. Among the pictures here shown, the English stranger will see
with regret the splendid collection once at Strawberry Hill, which were
unhappily allowed to leave the shores of Britain: there are also some
good statues and a few antiquities that are interesting.
The Museum in St. Petersburg is very small; it contains some
badly-stuffed birds and animals, and very little besides, nor would it be
worth the trouble of visiting were it not for the celebrated remains of
the mammoth which are preserved in it. Some portions of the skin and hair
are shown; the former is like discoloured board, the latter resembles
enormous bristles.
A dinner-party in Russia differs little from our own, excepting that
_all the dishes_ are handed round, which is much more pleasant than the
stiff formality of the joints being placed on the table: the lady and
gentleman of the house are thus at leisure to enter into conversation
with the guests, and can attend to the minor _politesses_ requisite. I
was once at a large dinner-party in Moscow, and was surprised to remark
that the host and hostess did not take their seat at all at the table,
but walked about chatting first to one, then to another, recommending
this wine or that dish to the attention of their assembled friends. I
found that it was formerly a very general custom, but has now much fallen
into disuse; it had its origin doubtless in the anxious wish to perform
thoroughly the duties of hospitality, for which the Russians are justly
celebrated. There is one custom that might well be entirely abolished.
Each person washes his mouth out after dinner, and, after having well
rinsed it, empties its contents into the finger-glass: it certainly is
not pleasant to see a whole party thus employed. Immediately after coffee
the guests depart; they do not, as with us, remain the whole evening.
This is a good arrangement, as it gives the lady the opportunity of
going to the opera, or to a friend’s house, as she pleases. There is
little conversation worth remembering at a Russian dinner, efforts at
making those antediluvian solecisms called puns, or endeavouring to
say bons mots, repeating the last anecdote, real or invented, of the
Emperor, the Empress, or some fortieth cousin of the imperial family,
news as to who has obtained the cross of St. Anne, or that of Vladimir,
or of some other order of knighthood which the Russians are ready to
sell their souls to obtain, some great honour done to one of the party
by his Majesty’s having looked at him, &c., flirtation, and paying
personal compliments, are the staple of their “feast of reason.” We
have often remarked with astonishment the excessive want of general
information among the gentlemen; many of them seemed to know nothing
at all beyond the frontiers of the empire. Knowledge is decidedly at
a discount. Their showy exterior, their brilliant accomplishments of
music and dancing, their fluency in speaking so many foreign languages,
are apt to strike foreigners with surprise, and they give them credit
for knowing all those _solid_ acquirements which with us are the _sine
quâ non_ of a good education. An attempt to converse on any scientific
subject would astonish every one, for it would soon show how _very
little_ real knowledge they possess. There is also another peculiar trait
in the national character. A Russian will frequently pretend an intimate
acquaintance with a subject of which he is perfectly ignorant, yet so
well will he conceal this fact, that he will keep up the deception for
an incredible time, when all at once he will ask some extraordinarily
stupid question which shows you that he has not understood a single
syllable of all that you have been saying. To this general rule there
are of course many exceptions, but in speaking of a nation we take the
majority. I do not know how it can be otherwise in a country where so
absurd a department exists as that of the censor’s, through which all
books and papers must pass before they reach the hands of the community.
The extreme fear of the government lest the nation should become too
enlightened will some time or other meet with its reward, for they may
as well attempt to curb the waves of the Atlantic as to stem the tide of
civilization in its course round the world. It seems the rule with the
censor’s office to let all the books pass that are likely to increase
the demoralization of the nation, such as the detestable novels of
Eugène Sue and Georges Sand, the vicious works of Paul de Koch, and so
on, and to exclude all those that would tend to its enlightenment, or
would contribute to forward true and solid civilization. The overstrained
sentiments, the caricatures of affection, the degrading views of society,
and the familiarity with vice exhibited in these works, find their most
ardent admirers in Russia, and will undoubtedly have a fearful influence
at some future time when the “siècle de Louis XVI.” shall arrive: then
they will perform in action what they have learned in theory, and a
terrible retribution will fall upon the heads of their rulers for their
sin and wickedness in thus aiding their country’s degradation.
I remember well the lamentations of one of the best living authors in
Russia in speaking of his works, and his bitter regrets that the very
parts he had most valued were not allowed to be published. Among others
he mentioned a play, which really contained some most admirable speeches,
but when it returned from the censor’s office he showed us that they had
all been erased, leaving nothing but the light conversations and “parties
légères,” which alone were thought suitable for public amusement;
of course the play was never performed, for, as he said, “c’était
parfaitement ridicule.” How can a nation possess great poets, historians,
or other literary men when such an embargo is laid on mind and thought?
“Our cleverest men are in Siberia,” said a Russian one day: perhaps
the remembrance of its snows serves to chill many a rising genius that
would make his country greater than their vaunted army of a million of
warriors. We were told that Karamsin, the modern historian, was obliged
first to read over his pages in the presence of the Emperor before they
were allowed to go forth to the world; it may, therefore, easily be
conceived to what extent the truth of his statements may be relied on.
So exceedingly strict are the regulations of the censor’s office, that I
used jestingly to say that the introduction of foreign literature would
be, at last, restricted to the alphabet! A short time ago a gentleman
of literary pursuits, being anxious to write a play, the subject of
which was to be taken from English history, was making some notes on the
different events, but every one of them was either too expressive of the
love of liberty, or some equally well-founded objection was discovered.
“But why not, then, take the story of Elfrida, the daughter of the Earl
of Devonshire?” proposed I; “it is a thousand years ago nearly, and
cannot much influence the present century.”
“Impossible!” was the reply; “it would never be allowed to pass the
censor’s office, or be permitted to be performed on the stage here.”
“But what is the objection?”
“Why, they would never let a play be represented in which Elfrida’s
husband deceives the king.”
“But he was not the Czar of Muscovy.”
“That does not signify; the _act_ is still the same, and the possibility
of a crowned head’s being deceived would on no account be allowed.”
By this it may be seen how impossible it is for a Russian author to write
anything better than the silly farces and absurd comedies which are
nightly performed to amuse the public in St. Petersburg.