were grounds for pigeon and sparrow-shooting, and the performance of
athletic feats. Pigeons were there sold to be shot at, at 15s. per
dozen; starlings at 4s., and sparrows at 2s. The place attained a
notoriety not surpassed by the number of excursionists who in summer
visit Rye House. Subsequently the Red House with its shooting ground
and adjacent premises was purchased by the Government for £10,000.
"The Old House at Home" was a small thatched hut, kept by Farmer
Hall, where beer was sold direct from the cask, to be drunken on
the premises. It answered the six-fold purpose of shop, dormitory,
fowl-house, pig-sty, stable and cow-shed. Within this hovel were
gathered pigs, fowls, cats, dogs, singing-birds, ducks, cows, horses
and donkeys, which, together with the landlord and his customers who
regaled themselves here, constituted a "happy family!" This was a
famous place for "egg flip," which consisted of new-laid eggs taken
from the hens' nests, beat up in hot ale or porter, sweetened with
sugar, and sold to persons who preferred roaming about at mid-night or
in the small hours of the morning.
On the Lammas land, in the summer months, gipsies pitched their
encampments. On Sundays the place presented the aspect of a pleasure
fair, lawlessness, Sabbath desecration, immorality, and vice
were rampant. At length the place became a scandal and a public
disgrace, and even now, notwithstanding the vast improvements in the
neighbourhood, Battersea, as a Parish, to a certain extent is ignored,
and persons would no more have smiled at Battersea Park being called
Lambeth Park than they do now at Clapham Junction being called by that
misnomer, and so with other parts of the parish. A great boon was
conferred upon the inhabitants of the South-west of London when this
infamous locality was converted into a public park. The intolerable
nuisance complained of did not take place previously to the year 1835,
after Lord Spencer's first sale when the land fell into the hands of
small proprietors. Irrespective of social propriety, public decency
and order, horse-racing, donkey-riding, fortune-telling, gambling,
cock-shying, swings, roundabouts, boxing, and all the paraphernalia
of a pleasure fair with its concomitant evils were the constant
scenes witnessed here on Sundays. Mr. Thomas Kirk (now Curate of St.
George's) who was for many years a Missionary in Battersea, in his
report published in the "London City Mission Magazine," September
1, 1870, states, "that which made this part of Battersea Fields so
notorious was the gaming, sporting, and pleasure-grounds at the 'Red
House' and 'Balloon' public-houses, and Sunday fairs, held throughout
the Summer months. These have been the places of resort of hundreds
and thousands, from royalty and nobility down to the poorest pauper
and the meanest beggar. And surely if ever there was a place out of
hell which surpassed Sodom and Gomorrah in ungodliness and abomination
this was it. Here the worst men and the vilest of the human race seemed
to try to outvie each other in wicked deeds. I have gone to this sad
spot on the afternoon and evening of the Lord's day, when there have
been from 60 to 120 horses and donkeys racing, foot-racing, walking
matches, flying boats, flying horses, roundabouts, theatres, comic
actors, shameless dancers, conjurers, fortune-tellers, gamblers of
every description, drinking booths, stalls, hawkers, and vendors of
all kinds of articles. It would take a more graphic pen than mine to
describe the mingled shouts and noises and the unmentionable doings of
this pandemonium on earth. I once asked the pierman 'how many people
were landed on Sunday from that pier?' He told me that according to
the weather, he had landed from 10,000 to 15,000 people! This influx
was besides that by the various land roads by which hundreds of
thousands used to come, till the numbers have sometimes been computed
at 40,000 and 50,000." Mr. Thomas Cubitt, in 1843, suggested to Her
Majesty's Commission for Improving the Metropolis the advisability
of laying Battersea Fields out as pleasure-grounds, and this design
was subsequently pressed upon their attention by the Hon. and Rev.
Robert John Eden. An Act of Parliament passed in 1846 empowered Her
Majesty's Commissioners of Woods to form a Royal Park in Battersea
Fields. Acts to enlarge their powers were passed in 1848, 1851 and
1853, by which a Commission, incorporated as the Battersea Park
Commission was appointed with power to sell, demise or lease lands not
required for the park. Mr. (afterwards Sir) James Pennethorne's plan
was approved, by which 320 acres were to be enclosed at an estimated
cost of £154,250. The fields were entirely overflowed by the river at
high water, until about three hundred years ago when an embankment
was raised, and the land reclaimed.[1] Brayley referring to this
period says, "The land reclaimed went to the Lord of the Manor, but
was subject to some ill-defined rights of inter-commonage exercised
by the inhabitants of Battersea at stated periods of the year. From
various causes these rights have been nearly extinguished and most
of the land is now held by different proprietors, and partly let for
building and other uses." Wild flowers grew abundantly in Battersea
Fields.[2] A learned botanist in the last century compiled a flora
of Battersea, and many of the plants that luxuriated in these fields
were not to be met with elsewhere, except at places much farther from
London. Its surface was raised by a million cubic yards of earth
from various sources, particularly from the London Docks (Victoria)
Extension. The Park comprises 198 acres, was purchased at a cost of
£246,517, and laid out in 1852-58 at a further cost of £66,373. In 1857
planting was commenced. Up to this period the works had been executed
under Mr. Pennethorne, Architect of the Office of Works, when the late
Mr. Farrow was appointed to take charge and complete the unfinished
works. The park has a grass surface of nearly 66 acres. About 40 acres
are set apart for cricket and croquet. There are two match grounds,
which, together, admit of seven matches being played at the same time.
On these grounds between 600 and 700 matches are played annually. The
spaces are assigned by ballot. There is a practice-ground for organized
adult cricket clubs, on which from 70 to 90 cricket clubs practice on
different days; and a general practice ground, appropriated to schools
and junior clubs, and the public generally. The season for cricket is
from 1st May to 30th September. Other large spaces are used for the
drill and exercise of troops stationed at Chelsea Barracks. Various
volunteer corps as also the district police are drilled here. The park
contains one of the richest collections of shrubs and trees in or near
London. Its soil is specially suited to the rose, so that visitors who
take delight in the queen of the English garden resort to the rosery.
[Footnote 1: It was a miserable swamp, said to have been gained for
the parish of Battersea by the act of charitably burying a drowned man
there who had been refused sepulture in the adjoining parish. This act
was held in a subsequent law-suit to prove a right of ownership, and
thus a good deed was amply recompensed.
On the northern side of the river Thames is conspicuously situated
that grand national asylum for decayed and maimed soldiers known as
Chelsea Hospital. This Hospital was begun by Charles II., carried on by
James II., and completed by William III. in 1690. The first projector
of Chelsea Hospital was Stephen Fox, grandfather to the Hon. Charles
Fox. "He could not abear," he said "to see these soldiers, who had
ventured their lives, and spent their strength in the service of their
country, reduced to beg." And with the munificence of a philanthropist,
he subscribed £13,000 towards the establishment of the Hospital. It
was built by Sir Christopher Wren, at a cost of £150,000, on the site
of an old theological college escheated to the Crown. In 1850 there
were 70,000 _out_ and 539 _in pensioners_. The body of the Duke of
Wellington lay here in state 10-17 Nov., 1852. Ranelagh Gardens lay
at the northern foot of Vauxhall Bridge, a portion now forming the
pleasure-grounds of Chelsea Hospital, and were formerly the gardens
of Lord Ranelagh's Mansion. They were opened 1733. The amusement were
masquerades, illuminated and day-light fêtes, dancing, music, and
promenading, which was continued until the end of the century. The
grand rotundo, which somewhat resembled the Pantheon of Rome, had
an external diameter 185 feet, the internal 150. It was taken down
in 1805. In Cheyne Walk was a famous Coffee-House, first opened in
1695, by one Salter a barber, who drew the attention of the public
by the eccentricity of his conduct, and furnished his house with a
large collection of natural and other curiosities. Admiral Munden and
other officers who had been much on the Coast of Spain enriched it
with many curiosities and gave the owner the name of Don Saltero, by
which he is mentioned more than once in the "Tatler," particularly
in No. 34. This coffee-house was frequented by Richard Cromwell and
many of the wits and authors of that day. "The Folly," a gilded barge
where music and dancing and other amusements delighted the beaux and
belles of the day of the Restoration, was moored in the Thames not far
from the Modern Cremorne. Adjoining Chelsea Hospital is the Physic
Garden belonging to the Company of Apothecaries, which was enriched
with a great variety of plants, both indigenous and exotic, and given
in 1721 by Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., on condition of their paying a
quit-rent of £5, and delivering annually to the Royal Society fifty
specimens of different sorts of plants of the growth of this garden
till the number amounted to 2,000. In 1733 the Company erected a marble
statue of the donor, by Rysbrack, in the centre of the garden, the
front of which was conspicuously marked toward the river by two noble
cedars of Lebanon, the first ever planted in England, of which only
one remains. Sir Hans Sloane was born at Killileagh in the north of
Ireland, in 1660, of Scottish extraction. He retired at the age of
eighty to Chelsea, to enjoy a peaceful tranquillity, the remains of
a well-spent life. He died Jan. 11, 1752. He published the "History
of Jamaica" in 2 vols. folio. In the churchyard is the monument of
Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., founder of the British Museum; and on the
south-west corner of the church is affixed a mural monument to the
memory of Dr. Edward Chamberlayne, with a punning Latin epitaph, which
for its quaintness, may detain the reader's attention. In the church
is a still more curious Latin epitaph on his daughter; from which we
learn, that, on the 30th of June, 1690, she fought, in men's clothing,
six hours against the French, on board a fire-ship under the command
of her brother. The Chelsea Embankment extends along the north bank of
the river from Chelsea Hospital to Albert Suspension Bridge; it was
opened 9th May, 1874, by the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, Lieut.
Col. Sir James Magnaghten Hogg, M.P., Chairman of the Metropolitan
Board of Works; Sir Joseph Bazalgette, C.B., Engineer. A beautiful
view of Chelsea Embankment with its adjacent buildings may be had from
the broad Boulevard running along the river-side in Battersea Park;
including the lofty spire of St. Luke's Church, Old Chelsea Church,
the Gardens of the Apothecaries' Company, the fine old trees and
picturesque Dutch-like houses of Cheyne Walk, the Gardens and Buildings
of Chelsea Hospital, the New Barracks beyond, and the lofty Pumping
Station and Tower near Grosvenor Road Station.]
[Footnote 2: We are acquainted with an aged gentleman well skilled in
medical botany who in the early part of his professional experience
used to have gathered certain choice herbs for therapeutic purposes
which grew abundantly in this locality.
The following are the names of some of the indigenous plants:--
_Circea intetiana_--Enchanter's Night Shade (in the lane from the
fields to the Prince's Head, Battersea, uncommon in shady lanes).
_Valeriana dioica_--Small Marsh Valerian. _Fedia olitoria_--Corn
Salad (dry banks Battersea Fields and Lavender Sweep). _Panicum
Vertiullatum_--Rough Panic Grass (rare). _P. Viride_--Green Panic
Grass (near the Red House and Nine Elms). _P. Crusgalli_--Loose
Panic Grass (near the footpath). _Bromus diandrus_--Upright Annual
Broom Grass (rare, on an old wall near Battersea Church). _Avena
flavescens_--Yellow Oat-Grass (not common, in the footpath from
Battersea Bridge to Lavender Hill). _Myosotis palustris_--Great
Water Scorpion Grass or, Forget me not, (ditches and marshy grounds;
plentiful in Battersea Fields). An elegant plant, the emblem of
affection among the Germans. _Lithospermum arvense_--Corn Gromwell,
(Battersea Cornfields; not common). _Primula vulgaris_--Primrose. _P.
Veris_--Cowslip (Fields on Lavender Hill). _Hottonia palustris_--Water
Violet, (plentiful in Latchmere). _Scirpus Triqueter_--Triangular Club
Rush, rare, (Banks of the Thames between Vauxhall and Battersea).
_Lysimachia vulgaris_--Great Yellow Loose Strife. _Samolus
valerandi_--(Brook weed, Water Pimpernel). _Chenopodium bonus
Henricus_--English Mercury. _C. olidum_--Fetid Goosefoot, (rare).
_Cicuta Virosa_--Water Hemlock, (deadly poison to men and cattle).
_Conium Maculatum_--Common Hemlock, (a very dangerous plant). _Œnanthe
fistulosa_--Water Dropwort. _Œ. crocata_--Hemlock Water Dropwort,
(deadly poison to men and cattle). _Œ. Phellandrium_--Fine-leaved Water
Dropwort, (a very poisonous plant). _Smymium Olusatrum_--Alexanders,
(waste grounds near old houses). _Ornithogalum umbellatum_--Star
of Bethlehem. _Rumex Sanguineus_--Blood-veined Dock, (rare,
bank of a ditch on Lavender Hill, between the Nursery and the
footpath). _R. pulcher_--Fiddle Dock. _R. palustris_--Yellow
Marsh Dock. _R. Hydrolapathum_--Great Water Dock. _Triglochin
palustre_-- Marsh Arrow Grass. _Alisma plantago_--Water
Plantain, (ponds and marshes). _Polygonum Bistorta_--Bistort,
or Snake Weed. _Butomus umbellatus_--Flowering Rush. _Saxifraga
granulata_--White Saxifrage. _S. Tridactylites_--Rue-leaved
Saxifrage. _Sedum reflexum_--Reflex Yellow Stonecrop. _Lychnis flos
Cuculi_--Meadow Lychnis. _Chelidonium majus_--Celandine. _Papaver
dubium_--Long Smooth-headed Poppy. _Stratiotes aloides_--Water
Aloe. _Thalictrum flavum_--Common Meadow Rue. _Nepeta Cataria_--Cat
Mint. _Lamium incisum_--Cut-leaved dead Nettle. _Scutellaria
galericulata_--Common Scull Cap. _Prunella vulgaris_--Self
Heal. _Pedicularis palustris_--Tall Red Rattle. _Antirrhinum
Cymbalaria_--Joy-leaved Snapdragon. _A. spurium_--Round-leaved
Fluellin or Snapdragon. _A. orontium_--Lesser Snapdragon, (Cornfields,
etc., Battersea Fields). _Cochlearia armoracia_--Horse Raddish.
_Nasturtum amphibium_--Amphibious Yellow Cress. _Sisyonbrium
irio_--Broad Hedge Mustard. _S. sophia_--Fine-leaved Hedge Mustard.
_Erysimum Cheiranthoides_--Worm-seed Treacle Mustard. _Geranium
pratense_--Blue Meadow Crane's Bill. _G. Robertianum_--Herb Robert.
_G. Lucidum_--Shining Crane's Bill. _G. pyrenaicum_--Perennial
Dove's-foot Crane's Bill. _G. rotundifolium_--Soft Round-leaved
Crane's Bill, (by the road side near the Prince's Head, Battersea).
_Malva rotundifolia_--Dwarf Mallow. _Lathyrus aphaca_--Yellow
Vetching. _Ervum hirsutum_--Hairy Tare, (Osier ground near Battersea).
_Trifolium fragiferum_--Strawberry-headed Trefoil. _Hypericum
humifusum_--Trailing St. John's Wort. _H. pulchrum_--Small upright St.
John's Wort. _Tragnopogon pratensis_--Yellow Goat's Beard. _Cichorium
Intybus_--Wild Endive; or, Succory. _Onopordum Acanthium_--Common
Cotton Thistle. _Bidens cernua_--Nodding Bur-Marygold. _Tusslago
Petasites_--Butter Bur. _Orchis morio_ and _maculata_ are said to have
been found in Battersea Meadows. _Listera ovata_--Common Twayblade.
_Typha augustifolia_--Lesser Cat's Tail; or, Reedmace. _Sparganium
ramosum_--Branched Bur-Reed. _Carex dioica_--Common Separate-headed
Carex. _C. remota_--Remote Carex. _C. riparia_--Common Bank Carex.
_Sagittaria sagittifolia_--Arrow Head. _Mercurialis annua_--Annual
Mercury. _Equisetum limosum_--Smooth naked Horsetail.
See a catalogue of the rarer species of indigenous plants which have
been observed growing in the vicinity of Clapham; systematically
arranged according to their class and order, with a reference to
the figures in English Botany, printed in a deeply interesting work
entitled "Clapham and its Environs," by David Batten.]
The Sub-tropical Garden opened in August, 1864, is nearly four acres in
extent. It is situated at the head of the ornamental water surrounded
by sloping banks, parterres and rolling lawns. In this region flourish
palms, tree-ferns, plants with large leaves, gigantic grasses, and the
climbers and creepers of Equatorial forests and jungles. India-rubber
trees, castor-oil plants, Japanese honeysuckle, Chinese privet, the
banana of Abyssinia recalling the expedition to Magdala; the papyrus
plant of Egypt, the veritable bulrush of the Nile, the beautiful
scarlet foliage of the dragon's blood tree from South America, the
large-leaved tobacco plant, the caladium esculentum from the West
Indies, the neottopteris australis etc., besides a variety of other
vegetable forms from the tropics. Eastward of the Sub-tropical Garden
is situated the Peninsula, containing some of the choicest combinations
of floral work, resembling in pattern the most exquisite tapestry.
The Alpine point gives a miniature representation of the valleys and
mountain-peaks of Alpine scenery. Several little hills are so arranged
as to show in miniature the ascending zones of vegetation, beginning
with the low warm plains with palms, and leading up to snow-clad
heights. The snow is represented by gnaphalium tementosum. The lake,
rocks, waterfalls and landscapes are truly picturesque, being so
arranged as to produce the most pleasing effect.
The ornamental water covers 23 acres of ground, with an average depth
of 2½ feet. Ornithological specimens of the web-footed class afford
sport for the aged as well as for the young who feed the aquatic birds
with cake, biscuit and crumbs of bread. Besides a large colony of
Moorhens that have settled down in these friendly waters may be seen
Chinese, Egyptian and Barnacle geese, and Carolina and Muscovy ducks;
also
"The Swan, with arch'd neck
Between her white wings mantling proudly, rows
Her state with oary feet"
The lark, the linnet, the thrush, the black-bird join in chorus to fill
the air with their bird-song. At night passers-by are charmed with the
sweet, rich mellow notes of
"The merry nightingale,
That crowds, and hurries, and precipitates,
With fast thick warble his delicious notes,
As if he were fearful that an April night
Would be too short for him to utter forth
His love chant."
_Coleridge._
It may not be uninteresting for the naturalist to know that larva of
the goat moth (_cossus ligniperda_) inhabits poplars and willows in
Battersea Park. This park too is considered famous for the congregation
of vast flocks of starlings just before their migration.
Boating here is a safe and enjoyable amusement. Skiffs are one shilling
per hour, party boats eighteenpence. In Winter, when the water is
frozen over, it is quite an area for skaters.
The lake is an artificial one, and is fed partly from the Thames and
partly by a steam engine fixed for the purpose of supplying the park
with water for the lodges, drinking-fountains, roads, flower-beds, etc.
The Gymnasium is in the South-western portion of the park. On the
adjacent sward Sunday and other schools may hold their annual treats.
In the space thus appropriated preaching is allowed and public meetings
are permitted.
Nearly at the centre of the Peninsula there is a reservoir which is
excavated below the level of the neighbouring springs. The water from
this self-supplied source is as clear as crystal; it is pumped into an
elevated tank above the engine house which holds 20,000 gallons, from
which are laid service pipes for the supply of the park.
The avenue occupies a central position of the park; the trees are the
English elm. This affords an enjoyable and shady promenade.
The horse ride or equestrian road, about forty feet wide, nearly
encircles the park and is almost two miles in length. Here is also an
excellent carriage drive separate from the latter by a row of young
plane trees. There are numerous seats in the park for the accommodation
of the public. Situated in the centre of the park is a band-stand. The
band plays in the Summer and Autumnal months for the entertainment of
those who are fond of instrumental music.
There are two refreshment rooms where light refreshments can be
obtained at moderate prices. The lodges too are appropriated to the
public and offer refreshments and cloak-rooms.
The advantage of a river frontage possessed by Battersea Park is shown
by the fact that upwards of 12,000 persons have landed at the Park Pier
on fine Summer days. On Sundays, when Chelsea Bridge is free, in fine
weather, 40,000 or 50,000 people have been in the park.
The public owe a tribute of grateful respect to the late Mr. John
Gibson, of Surrey Lane, whose acquaintance with horticulture and the
science of botany was something considerable, who for about fifteen
years was Park Superintendent. That gentleman went on a Botanical
Mission to India for and at the expense of the Duke of Devonshire. The
manner in which portions of the park are disposed was from designs
originally his own. The new rock work is by Mr. Pulham, of Broxbourne.
Mr. Alexander Rogers is at present Park Superintendent; Mr. E. W.
Partridge, Inspector. There are twelve Park Constables, viz., Mr. J.
Cook, South-east Lodge; J. Hawkins, South Lodge; Edwin Ashby, West
Lodge; George Weedon, Charles Page, William Jones, James Powell,
J. Pointer, George Dicks, W. Sheppard, Isaac Chamberlain, William
Withers, Mr. Dowly, Foreman of the Gardeners. On an average about forty
gardeners are employed in the park. The park is under the Commissioners
of Works, No. 12, Whitehall.[1]
[Footnote 1: On Battersea Park Embankment, near where the Albert Bridge
now spans the river, lies like some ancient ruin the beautiful Portico
of Burlington House. It was when removed from Piccadilly in 1868 to
have been re-erected in the Park.]
The park was opened March 28th, 1858.
In 1862 the Royal Agricultural Society of England held their Annual
Show in Battersea Park.
Recently some beautiful villas in Queen Anne's style have been built in
Albert road.
Opposite the Western gate a site has been chosen for the erection of a
Chapel-of-Ease to St. Mary's.
At the angle facing the South-western gate two stately mansions have
recently been erected contiguous to each other, called Lancaster Tower
and Strathedon House.