cross the bridges which connect the opposite banks of the Thames at the
western end of this great city without paying toll. The Metropolitan
Board of Works have expended £538,847 19s. in freeing these five
bridges--viz.: Lambeth Bridge, £36,059; Vauxhall Bridge, £255,230 16s.
8d.; Albert and Battersea Bridges, (including Parliamentary costs),
£170,305; Albert Bridge Company (taxed costs of arbitration), £2,253
3s. 1d.; Chelsea Bridge, £75,000. On Saturday, the 24th of May, 1879,
Her Majesty Queen Victoria's birthday was appropriately chosen for
the occasion and great preparations had been made for giving _éclat_
to the ceremony. The route taken by the Royal Party (which included
the Prince and Princess of Wales--two of their children, Prince
Albert Victor and Prince George of Wales, attired in naval costume
as naval cadets; the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, the Crown Prince
of Denmark) which was gay with Venetian masts, bannerets, streamers
and flags. The Circular Engine Shed in Victoria Bridge Road and that
portion of the railway bridge which spans the Thames belonging to
the London, Brighton and South-Coast Railway Company were lavishly
festooned and decorated with coloured flags most profusely. Shortly
after 3 p.m. came three open carriages each drawn by two horses and the
well-known scarlet livery of the Court Mews on the hammer-cloths. At
the south side of Lambeth Bridge the Prince was received by Sir James
M'Garel Hogg, M.P., Chairman of the Board of Works; the Archbishop of
Canterbury, Lord Middleton, Sir Henry Peek, Sir James Lawrence, M.P.,
Mr. Alderman McArthur, M.P., Mr. Selway, M.P., Mr. Coope, M.P., and
other notabilities. The keys having been surrendered with the customary
formalities, a Royal salute having been fired from the banks of the
river and the bands having played the National Anthem, Mr. J. M. Clabon
handed the Prince of Wales an address, folded and tied with green
tape, after a moment's parley His Royal Highness with a smile and an
approving nod of the head from the Princess, who was by express wish a
joint participator with the Heir Apparent in the ceremony of opening
the bridge, handed back the address asking that it might be read as
he wished to reply, then Sir James M'Garel Hogg untying the tape and
unfolding the address read as follows:--
"To their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales. May
it please your Royal Highness--It is with great gratification that
we, the Chairman and Members of the Metropolitan Board of Works,
receive your Royal Highnesses on the occasion of your opening free
to the public the five bridges over the Thames, from Lambeth Bridge
on the east to Battersea Bridge on the west, which serve to connect
important districts on the two sides of the river. London, which in
many respects stands at the head of the great cities of the world, has
too long, we fear, in the matter of free passage across the river,
been behind the capitals of other countries. Until to-day there has
been no free bridge in the metropolis westward of Westminster by which
the population north and south of the Thames could pass from one
side of the river to the other. We are glad that this reproach will
now be removed. The bridges which your Royal Highnesses are about to
declare free have been acquired by the board under the powers of an
Act of Parliament passed in the year 1877, which had for its object
the extinction of the tolls on all the bridges in London. Waterloo
Bridge and the Charing-cross Railway Footbridge have already been made
free. The tolls will this day be extinguished on five other bridges,
and before the end of the year it is hoped that there will be none
but free bridges over the Thames throughout the metropolitan area.
The metropolis and its inhabitants have received many proofs of the
interest which your Royal Highnesses feel in their welfare, and of
the encouragement which you are always ready to give to those who are
engaged in promoting that welfare. Your presence upon this occasion
is a further proof of the interest you feel, and we offer your Royal
Highnesses our sincere thanks for the honour you have done us.
Signed, on behalf of the Metropolitan Board of Works,
J. M. M'GAREL HOGG, Chairman of the Board,
May 24, 1879.
The Prince of Wales spoke in reply as follows:
Sir James Hogg and Gentlemen--I thank you in my own name and that
of the Princess of Wales for your address, and I can assure you
that it gives us both sincere pleasure to take a part in this day's
proceedings. The opening of the five bridges westward of Westminster
is an important event in the annals of the metropolis, and I rejoice
that you should have chosen the Queen's Birthday to declare them free.
It is a source of great gratification to us to hear your announcement
that the other bridges will, before long, be equally open to the
public. A free communication across the Thames is an incalculable boon
to all classes of the inhabitants on both sides of the river, and it
is our earnest hope that you will be enabled to carry your promised
work into effect within the specified time. Let me state in conclusion
that the Princess and myself are always ready to assist in advancing
any object which identifies us with the population of London, and
which tends to promote the interests of the public. The Prince then,
amidst loud cheers, exclaimed, 'I declare this bridge open and free
for ever.'"
Twenty carriages were devoted to the Members of Parliament, Members
of the Metropolitan Board and the Officials the twentieth containing
Sir James M'Garel Hogg and some ladies and following this came the
three Royal carriages. The route being kept clear of traffic and
the spectators massed in lines along side by the police--some 1600
were on duty--the arrangements south side of the bridges being in
charge of Captain Braynes, while on the north side Colonel Pearson
had the directions. His Royal Highness proceeded by way of the Albert
Embankment to Vauxhall Bridge, the approach to which was exceedingly
picturesque the banks of the Thames fluttering with flags, and the
river crowded with boats that followed the _cortège_. The procession
crossed and re-crossed Chelsea Suspension Bridge. In the London,
Brighton and South-Coast Railway West-end Goods Traffic Yard a Royal
salute was given on the arrival of the Prince by the crushing weight
of a locomotive named Rennes, No. 130, passing over twenty-one fog
signals, an arrangement previously made by Mr. J. Richardson, the
effect of which gave general satisfaction. The west side of the
Victoria Railway Bridge which spans the Thames was elegantly decorated
from one end to the other by the London, Brighton and South-Coast
Railway Company. Festoons and tri-coloured flags representing the
colours used for signals on railways were voluntarily displayed in such
profusion by Messrs. J. Richardson and Everest as to render the scene
quite imposing. In front of Chelsea Hospital were drawn up two hundred
warriors of olden times, pensioners in their beaver cocked hats who
knowing more about "Brown Bess than the Martini rifle managed to do a
salute with tolerable precision." The people assembled in Battersea
Park made a rush for Albert Bridge as the procession approached that
graceful structure. The Albert Bridge Company was represented by Mr.
Ewing Matheson, the Chairman; Mr. Youngman, Manager; Mr. A. C. Harper,
Secretary, and Mr. Frederick Stanley, Solicitor. (The Countess of
Cadogan presented the Princess of Wales and the Duchess of Edinburgh
with handsome bouquets on behalf of the ladies of Chelsea. Button holes
of a very choice nature were also presented to the Prince of Wales
and the Duke.) Mr. Kingsbury, Chairman of the Chelsea Vestry, had the
honour of presenting a silver medal commemorative of the occasion to
the Prince of Wales which was graciously accepted. At the north side
of the bridge were drawn up the boys of the Duke of York Asylum; at
the south side the children of the local schools, all singing with as
much gusto as their little lungs would allow "God bless the Prince of
Wales." The Pier Hotel and the houses facing the Albert Bridge were
gaily and handsomely decorated with flags of all nations, and the
balconies at the corner of Cheyne Walk being filled with ladies arrayed
in summer toilets, thus lending an additional charm to the _mise en
scène_. The military display consisted of guards of honour from the
1st Middlesex Engineer Volunteers and the 2nd (South) Middlesex Rifle
Volunteers. The keys of the Albert Bridge were handed over on behalf
of the Company by Messrs. Matheson and Stanley and a device swung
across the bridge denoting that the latter was "free for ever." On the
Chelsea side Mr. Stayton was the designer of the festivities. Passing
along the Surrey side of the river the Prince made for Old Battersea
Bridge the last of the five to be opened. Here the Surrey Volunteers
and the Surrey Artillery mustered in force, and a Salvo of Artillery
from the Citizen Steamboat Company announced that the bridge was free.
At the approach to the Bridge in Bridge Road stands of evergreens were
most tastefully arranged by the employés of Messrs. H. and G. Neal
the well-known Nurserymen of Wandsworth Common. At no point in the
line of route were greater demonstrations of joy expressed and loyalty
manifested than by the Battersea people.
The Royal party returned to Marlborough House---the other carriages
then went to Chelsea Vestry Hall where a banquet was served, and at
night there was a display of fireworks at Battersea Park supplied by
the Crystal Palace Pyrotechnists, T. Brock & Co., the expense being
borne by Earl Cadogan to wind up the eventful day's proceedings.
At the foot of Chelsea Suspension Bridge a board is erected on which
is written the following: _Notice, Metropolitan Board of Works. No
Traction Engine, Steam Roller, or any load exceeding_ 5 _tons on each
pair of wheels, must be taken over this bridge. By order of J. E.
Wakefield, Clerk to the Board, May,_ 1879.
Shortly after the freeing of the bridges the "bars" were removed, and
the old toll house at the foot of Battersea Bridge entirely demolished.
The stupendous Railway Bridge across the Thames at Battersea from
Battersea Park Railway Pier to Grosvenor Road Station is said to be
_the Widest Railway Bridge in the World_. It consists of four arches
each one hundred and seventy-five feet span in the clear, with a rise
of seventeen feet six inches. The immense ribs which support the
superstructure are formed throughout of wrought iron, and are firmly
attached to massive cast-iron standards which are placed over the
piers; the whole of the frame-work is thus made continuous throughout.
On each side of the river is a land arch of seventy feet span, making
the entire length of the bridge eight hundred and forty feet. The
abutments were put in by means of coffer-dams, and the foundations are
carried down thirty feet below Trinity high-water mark. The piers are
built upon the same principle as that which was first applied by the
late Charles Fox to the building of the Bridge at Rochester, Charing
Cross, and Cannon Street, Railway Bridges. The bridge was first erected
by Mr. J. Fowler. In 1865-6 it was enlarged by the late Sir Charles Fox.
Some antiquarians have stated that about fifty yards westward of
Chelsea Suspension Bridge, Cæsar and his legions crossed the river
Thames by a ford when in pursuit of the Britons who were retreating
from the Romans. The ford is described at low water as a shoal of
gravel not more than three feet deep, sufficient for ten men to walk
abreast, except on the Surrey side where it has been deepened by
raising ballast, and the causeway from the South bank may yet be traced
at low water. Others think that the place of crossing was higher up the
river, either at Chertsey or Kingston; the latter was anciently called
Moreford, or the Great Ford. However, landing at Deal, it is natural
the Romans would cross the river at some ford nearest that point.[1]
[Footnote 1: The distance of Chertsey (Surrey) from London is about
nineteen miles. Here, says Camden, Julius Cæsar crossed the Thames
when he first attempted the conquest of Britain; but Mr. Gough, in
his addition to the "Britannia," has advanced some arguments against
this opinion. The passage some believe to have been effected at Coway
Stakes, about a quarter of a mile below Chertsey Bridge, where Julius
Cæsar crossed the Thames when he led the Roman army into the kingdom
of Cassivellaunus, who had encamped his forces on the opposite shore.
The Britons did everything in their power to prevent the Romans from
crossing by driving stakes into the bed of the river and fencing the
banks with wooden palisades. Obstacles of this kind were lightly
estimated by the bold legionaries. The cavalry at once entered the
river; the infantry crossed with their heads only above water, and
panic-struck at the sight of Roman intrepidity, the barbarian warriors
fled from their post without an effort to maintain it. Bede, who lived
in the beginning of the eighth century, tells us, that some of the
stakes were then to be seen, and were as big as a man's thigh. Mr.
Milner says some of these stakes have been found at a recent period,
hard as ebony, each being the body of a young oak tree.]
We would suggest that the next Monolith brought to this country from
the land of the Ptolemys or Cæsars be erected on this spot, similar to
that of Cleopatra's Needle on the Victoria Embankment.
Watermen and others who navigate the river have observed how very
shallow the water is at this spot. Sir Richard Phillips says "the event
was pregnant with such consequences to the fortune of these Islands,
that the spot deserves the record of a monument; which ought to be
preserved from age to age, as long as the veneration due to antiquity
is cherished among us. Who could then have contemplated that the folly
of Roman ambition would be the means of introducing arts among the
semi-barbarous Britons, which in eighteen hundred and forty years or
after the lapse of nearly sixty generations, would qualify Britain
to become mistress of Imperial Rome; while one country would become
as exalted, and the other be so debased, that the event would excite
little attention, and be deemed but of secondary importance? Possibly
after another sixty generations, the posterity of the savage tribes
near Sierra-Leone, or New Holland may arbitrate the fate of London, or
of Britain, as an affair of equal indifference."[1]
[Footnote 1: "A Morning's Walk from London to Kew," by Sir Richard
Phillips, pp. 26-27, published 1817.]
We shall not attempt to speculate as to what is within the range of
human possibilities knowing as all history teaches us how transient is
the glory of sublunary things. We believe that while England is true
to herself and true to God such a state of things concerning Britain
as that depicted by Sir Richard will never be realised. The overthrow
of dynasties, of nations and of empires is the result of moral
degeneracy--the effect of national and individual sins. "Righteousness
exalteth a nation but sin is a reproach to any people. By the Almighty
who doeth according to His will in the armies of heaven and among the
inhabitants of the earth, kings reign and princes decree justice, He
putteth down one and setteth up another." However, while reading the
fore-mentioned quotation we were forcibly reminded of Macaulay's New
Zealander sitting upon a broken arch of London Bridge contemplating
o'er the desolation of England's chief city, or some other traveller
from the Antipodes who shall stand on the broken arches of Westminster
Bridge, and gazing on a horizon of ruin, cry "Here stood the Metropolis
of a Mighty Empire!"
Many years ago a person wrote a note to the Rev. John Brand, Secretary
to the Antiquarian Society, to say that as he was passing through
Battersea Fields he saw some labourers dig up a leaden coffin, in which
was a skeleton and near it there were three more human skeletons. There
is no date but it is addressed to Mr. Brand, at Northumberland House,
which he left about 1795.
About sixty-five years ago there was a house situated in the middle
of Battersea Fields which remained for a long time uninhabited on
account of the strange and weird stories related and circulated about
it. Ignorant and uneducated people said it was "haunted." Nobody would
live in it. At midnight "lights" it was said were to be seen "flitting
about the rooms," and "dismal groans of one in extremes, at the point
to die" were to be heard, and so many believed in "old bogies" and
tales of "hobgoblins" so their minds pictured the most frightful
and hideous spectres imaginable. At length the house like other old
buildings in the neighbourhood was demolished. The Rev. John Kirk, who
wrote a Biography of the Mother of the Wesleys, says: "The legendary
literature of the world teems with wonderful stories of haunted houses
where invisible spirits were believed to utter mysterious sounds, to
perform extraordinary pranks, and sometimes communicate revelations
of the future, or disclose the dread secrets of the hidden world.
These beliefs though strongest and most prevalent where the Gospel
is unknown or least influential, are not peculiar to generations 'of
old time' or to any particular nation under heaven." Certainly the
present generation do not appear to have improved much more than
their forefathers in this respect when there is so much nonsensical
talk about communicating with the invisible world by means of "spirit
rappings," "table turnings," etc. Surely the age when men shall give
heed to seducing spirits and doctrines of demons has come!
Battersea Fields, within the Manor along the Thames, were long notable
as a marshy tract producing a great variety of indigenous plants; and
were the scene on March 21st, 1829, of the duel between the Duke of
Wellington and Lord Winchelsea.[1] Battersea Fields were reputed as
a place for duelling and prize-fights but are now partly disposed in
a fine Public Park, and partly covered with streets and buildings. A
lane from Nine Elms past Tuggy's Mill and Rock's Tea Gardens, by the
poplar trees led to the Red House which faced the river near the foot
of the South side of Chelsea Suspension Bridge since erected. Here in
front was a tall flag-staff with flag waving in the breeze on which
were letters denoting the sign of the house. Seats and ale-benches,
embowered with clusters of elm trees with wide-spreading branches
overhead, were placed for the accommodation of persons who resorted
thither for refreshment. The space here embanked and enclosed with
an iron palisade formed a kind of jetty, divided in the centre by a
flight of steps from the river as well as having a flight of steps
at both ends where watermen landed their passengers or took up their
fares. There was a ferry here to the "White House" on the opposite
side of the Thames. The "Red House" was built of red bricks with white
pointings, wide but not high in elevation. It had one story above the
basement with slanted slated roof, and contained in all fourteen rooms.
Each of the windows on the ground-floor had wooden shutters hung on
hinges painted green, which, when closed or folded, fastened inside
with bolts. The windows did not project from the general face of the
building except the refreshment bar and the upstairs dining room.
This apartment and the long room adjoining commanded an extensive and
pleasant prospect of the river. A large lamp, supported by means of
an iron branch fastened to the wall, projected over the middle door.
The Royal Humane Society's drags were always kept here in readiness in
case of emergency, and notice was written on a board suspended outside
the west end of the house to that effect. The gardens were laid out in
small arbours decorated with Flemish and other paintings and fancifully
formed flower-beds. In the centre of the garden was a fish-pond; the
walks were prettily disposed; at the end of the principal one was a
painting, the perspective rendered the walk in appearance much longer
than it really was. The shooting ground was about 120 yards square,
and inclosed by palings. Beyond the east end of the house was situated
a range of "boxes" or alcoves--seven in number--which at night were
illuminated with oil-lamps. Each "box" had a table in the centre
with seats all round so that twelve persons could sit inside very
comfortably. Of a morning several of the Guards were in the habit of
arriving here by water from Whitehall stairs to enjoy their "Flounder
breakfast" at ten o'clock. And certain noblemen dignified with their
presence and patronage the annual "Sucking Pig Dinner," which generally
took place in the month of August.
[Footnote 1: The Roman Catholic Emancipation Bill passed the Commons
by a majority of 320 to 142, March 30, and was carried on the third
reading in the Lords by 313 to 104, April 10. The Bill met with
determined opposition from the Marquis of Winchelsea who said some
things which the Duke regarded as a personal insult. This led to the
hostile meeting at Battersea Fields. It was fashionable in those days
for gentlemen to settle their friendly differences with a yard of cold
steel or a bullet from the muzzle of a pistol--happily as the result
of this duel no blood was shed--the Duke with a directed aim sent a
bullet through the hat of Winchelsea, whereupon the Marquis fired his
pistol in the air, advanced towards the Duke and made an apology, the
Duke of Wellington politely bowed to his political antagonist and then
separated. Wellington Road, near Battersea Bridge, marks the locality
and derives its name from this circumstance.]
Mr. Wright, who at one time was proprietor of the "Red House," had a
Raven that he called "Gyp" that used to talk. Sometimes as if hailing
a waterman from the river the bird would cry out "boat ahoy!" "What's
o'clock? what's o'clock?" it would hurriedly repeat as if anxious to
know the hour. At another time "Gyp" would call "Rock! over!" "Over!"
as if to intimate that somebody requested to be ferried over to the
other side. Many a scull has been deceived by the mimic cries of this
black-feathered rascal. One day Rock the ferryman was so irritated,
having been twice deceived that day by the call of "Gyp," that he
took up a quart pewter pot and threw it at his head. "Gyp" narrowly
escaped uninjured. Mr. Wright remonstrated and said he would not have
the bird hurt at any price. The raven was deliciously fond of picking
bones. On one occasion a gentleman accidentally dropped his spectacles;
presently, on looking up, he discovered his lost property in the beak
of the raven perched on a bough with all the gravity of a sexton. "Gyp"
had an incurable antipathy to dogs. If perchance a dog passed by, in an
instant he would pounce upon its back, hold on by his claws and peck
at it most unmercifully, while the dog thus attacked ran away yelping
and howling. When dislodged, "Gyp's" pinions bore him swiftly away from
the reach of the teeth of his canine adversary. "Gyp" was of a jealous
disposition and did not like to see other birds petted. He has been
known to kill a magpie and a raven. It was dangerous to put money down
in the presence of "Gyp" for "Gyp" had the propensity of picking it
up and of flying away with it. On one occasion he seized a sovereign
which a customer put down. As "Gyp" had several hiding places where he
deposited "stolen articles," as spoons, knives, forks, etc., diligent
search was made but the valuable coin was never discovered. The last
account we heard of "Gyp" was that he was taken down to Shropshire and
that the poor bird died. Mr. W. Puttick, to whom we are indebted for
some curious pieces of information, says, "One of the notabilities at
the Red House beside the Raven whose bites I have often experienced was
a half-witted man who went by the name of 'Billy' the nutman. He used
to carry a bag of nuts and a dial, people paid a penny and turned a
hand and had nuts for their money. I have often seen this man stand in
the water and let the pigeon shooters shoot at him for a few pence, his
gesticulations and grotesque movements at the same time exciting from
the spectators shouts and roars of laughter."
Mr. Wright took the house of Mr. Swaine, but after Mr. Wright left, the
house was taken by a man of the name of Ireland.
James Rock, a respectable ferryman and lighterman, whose house was hard
by, was accidentally drowned in the river Thames, August, 1874. His
son, George Rock, is now Pier-master at Battersea Park Railway Pier.