In an excursion to the _Land's End_ the traveller will meet with

several intermediate objects well worthy his attention, more worthy,

perhaps, than the celebrated promontory itself, as being monuments

of the highest antiquity in the kingdom. They consist of _Druidical

circles_, _Cairns_, or circular heaps of stones, _Cromlechs_,

_Crosses_, _Military Entrenchments_, and the obscure remains of

_Castles_. Many of these venerable objects, however, to the eternal

disgrace of the inhabitants be it spoken, have of late been much

mutilated, and indeed some have been entirely demolished. That the

noblest monuments of Greece should have been converted into lime by

the barbarous Turks, or that the temple of Diana should have furnished

a cement for the voluptuous apartments of the Haram, are instances

of degeneracy which we might have been prepared to witness in such

a people; but that the venerable remains of British antiquity, the

silent but faithful monuments of men and days long past, which are so

interesting from their connection with the primitive history of our

island, should in this enlightened age have been sawed into gate posts,

or converted into pig-troughs, is really past all endurance.--But to

proceed.--In riding from Penzance to the Land's End, which is about

ten miles distant, the first objects to be noticed are two beautiful

villas, well wooded, and adjoining each other,--_Castle-Horneck_, the

seat of the Borlase family, and _Rose Hill_, the property of the Rev.

Uriah Tonkin. The sea and land views from these houses are of the most

enchanting description. In viewing the latter place, the stranger will

scarcely believe that the spot which now exhibits so rich a pastural

scene, was a few years since a deformed and barren rock! but what

cannot gold effect, or where is the wild which its magic cannot convert

into fairy land? The cost of the gunpowder alone for blowing up the

rocks to facilitate their removal amounted to several hundred pounds.

About a mile farther west, the road passes another villa, Trereiffe,

the ancient seat of the family of Nicholls, who have been proprietors

of the great tythes of the parish of Madron from the period of the

reformation. It is now the residence of the Rev. Charles Valentine

Le Grice, into whose possession it has passed by marriage. The

scenery about this place is of a very exquisite cast, and, from the

richness of the land, and luxuriance of its productions, it may be

fairly denominated the garden of the Mount's Bay. After passing

through a shady avenue, from which we catch a delicious peep of the

sea bounded by a grotesque group of rocks, we take leave of the

picturesque, and plunge into a country of a very different aspect

and description,--rough, wild, and unsheltered; never was contrast

more complete or striking, not a tree is seen to break the extended

uniformity of the hills, nor is there a single object, with the

exception of a few scattered monuments of antiquity, to recommend it

to notice. The agriculturist may, perhaps, view the district with

somewhat different sensations, for the downs are certainly improveable,

and those portions which have been brought into tillage have amply

rewarded the labour of the adventurer: indeed in several districts

cultivation has even spread to the very brim of the ocean.

The natural product of the high lands is only a thin turf interspersed

with heath, fern and furze,[35] and many huge blocks of granite are

disseminated in all directions; this circumstance has materially

impeded the progress of cultivation, for in order to remove these

_boulders_ it is necessary to blast them with gunpowder; the fragments,

however, become useful in their turn, and are employed in making

enclosures, which bear the provincial name of _hedges_. This stone,

commonly called _Growan_, is, moreover, wrought into columnar masses,

eight or ten feet long, which are used as supporters to sheds and

outhouses, or gates posts, and bridges over rivulets. It is also

the material of which common rollers, mill-stones, salting and pig

troughs are made; in short, few stones are converted to more various

purposes of rural oeconomy, and it accordingly forms an article of some

commercial value. The mode of splitting it into the required forms is

somewhat curious; it is effected by applying several wedges to holes

cut, or _pooled_ as it is termed, in the surface of the stone at the

distance of three or four inches from each other, according to its size

and hardness; the harder the mass, the easier it may be split into the

required form; the softer, the less regularly it separates. The blocks

of granite employed in the construction of the Waterloo Bridge over the

Thames were procured from the downs in the vicinity of Penhryn.[36]

The Granite of the Land's End district is remarkable for its coarse

grain, and the large proportion of its felspar, which, according to

the observations of _Dr. Paris_, may be estimated as high as from 70

to 90 per cent. It moreover possesses an earthy texture, which greatly

accelerates its decomposition. This circumstance will in some measure

account for the unusual fertility of the _growan_ soil in the parishes

of Saint Burian, Sennen, and Saint Levan. It will moreover explain

the theory of a practice, which would otherwise appear absurd, that

of actually applying the disintegrated _growan_ to certain lands as a

manure!

On a closer examination of this Granite, the prismatic crystals of

felspar will often be found to exhibit that structure which _Haüy_

calls _hemitrope_; more often, they are termed _macles_, and are

compounded of two crystals intersecting each other at particular angles.

The Botanist as he rides along in the Summer months will observe

amongst the gorse (_Ulex_), which is abundant on each side of the road,

the parasitical plant _Cuscuta Epithymum_, (called _Epiphany_ by the

country people,) winding its spiral structure in all directions, and

producing from its reddish hue a beautiful contrast.

The farming of this country is in general slovenly, and certainly very

far behind any other part of the kingdom,[37] although it is but just

to acknowledge that _Leha_, a farm situated near the Land's End road,

forms a pleasing exception to this general remark. The proprietor, John

Scobell Esq. of Nancealverne, has here introduced the _Drill Husbandry

of Northumberland_, which would seem to be well adapted to a country so

infested with weeds, those hungry invaders of the farmer's property,

and usurpers of his soil. The farmers have a peculiar practice,

obviously suggested by the inconstancy of the weather, that of putting

up their wheat, barley, and other kinds of grain, in the field into

what are called "_Arishmows_." The sheaves are built up into a regular

solid cone about twelve feet high; the beards all turned inwards, and

the butt end only exposed to the weather. The whole is finished by an

inverted sheaf of reed or corn and tied to the upper rows.

The first objects of antiquity which we have to notice are the stone

crosses placed by the roads' side; some of them still retain their

original situation, while others, broken and mutilated, have been

converted into the various purposes of rural oeconomy. They appear

to have been originally designed as guides to direct the pilgrim to

the different churches. A few of the more remarkable of them are

represented as vignettes in different parts of the present work, from

which the reader will become acquainted with their general appearance.

At BOSCAWEN-UN, in a field about a quarter of a mile west of _Leha_,

we meet with one of the most ancient British monuments in the kingdom;

"_a Druidical circle_," as it has been pronounced, consisting of

nineteen stones, some of which have fallen, placed in a circle of

about twenty-five feet in diameter, having a single one in the centre.

There is considerable doubt and obscurity with respect to the origin

and intended use of these circles, of which there are many similar

examples in Cornwall. _Camden_ is inclined to consider them as military

trophies, while _Borlase_ deems it highly probable that such monuments

were of religious institution, and designed originally and principally

for the rites of worship; at the same time he conceives "they might

sometimes have been employed as places of council and judgment, and

that, whilst any council or decree was pending, the principal persons

concerned stood, each by his pillar, and that where a middle stone was

erected, as at _Boscawen-Un_, there stood the Prince or General elect."

This must certainly be acknowledged as one of the most extraordinary

specimens of antiquarian dreaming ever presented to the public.

About half a mile to the right of the high road stands an object of

later origin, but not of less interest to the antiquary; the ruins of a

small oratory, or baptistry, dedicated to _Saint Euinus_, and commonly

known by the name of _Chapel Euny_. It is situated near a well, whose

waters have been long supposed to possess very extraordinary virtues,

and to have performed many miraculous cures. There is a similar ruin,

which we shall hereafter have occasion to notice at Madron; and

it is worthy of remark that these wells do not possess any mineral

impregnation; the sick, however, at this very day, repair to them,

while the credulous attempt to read the future in the appearance of the

bubbles produced in their waters by the dropping in of pins or pebbles.

This mode of divining is perhaps one of the most ancient superstitions

that have descended to us, and was termed _Hydromancy_. The Castalian

fountain, and many others amongst the Grecians, were supposed to be of

a prophetic nature; thus, by dipping a fair mirror into a well did the

Patræans of Greece receive, as they vainly imagined, some notice of

ensuing sickness, or convalescence.

On the summit of the hill above these ruins, are situated the remains

of _Caerbran Castle_ or Round (that is _Brennus's Castle_) which

is thus described by _Borlase_. "It is a circular fortification,

consisting first of a deep ditch, fifteen feet wide, edged with stone,

through which you pass to the outer _vallum_, which is of earth,

fifteen feet high, and was well perfected towards the north-east, but

not so towards the west; within this vallum, passing a large ditch

about fifteen yards wide, you come to a stone wall, which quite rounded

the top of the hill, and seems to have been of considerable strength,

but lies, now, like a ridge of disorderly stones; the diameter of the

whole is ninety paces, and in the centre of all is a little circle."

There are no less than seven of these _hill castles_, as they are

termed, although they might with more propriety be called strong

entrenchments, to be seen at this time within five miles around

Penzance; all so placed on the hills as to admit of immediate

communication with each other by signal. From several of them we have

views of the North and South Channel, but from all of them either that

of one sea or the other. Much doubt has arisen concerning their origin.

_Mr. Polwhele_ attributes them to the Irish, while _Dr. Borlase_, like

an orthodox antiquary, who takes shelter, whenever he is bewildered,

under the sanction of a popular name, at once boldly decides upon their

Danish origin.

The lonely ruins of _Chapel Carn Bre_ next attract our notice; they are

situated upon the extremity of a high granite ridge, overlooking the

surfy recess of _Whitsand Bay_; from their great elevation they are

visible from every part of the country, although they scarcely form a

skeleton of the original building, and in a short time, probably, not

a vestige will remain to mark the consecrated spot. It appears to

have been a Chantry, erected for the performance of religious service

for the safety of mariners. It is not for the inspection of these

ruins that we direct the stranger to ascend the hill, for they are

too insignificant to merit attention, but it is for the purpose of

his viewing the extensive prospect which its summit commands,--a wild

expanse of waters occupying twenty-nine points of the compass!--From

this spot also Saint Michael's Mount has a singularly fine effect,

appearing as if placed in the centre of a lake at a distance from the

ocean.

We now proceed to _Sennan Church-town_,[38] which according to

barometrical admeasurement is 391 feet above the level of the sea. It

is about a mile from the _Land's End_, and is celebrated for containing

the Ale-house whimsically called "_The First and Last Inn in England_."

On the western side of its sign is inscribed "_The First_," and on the

eastern side "_The Last Inn in England_."

The last village towards the Land's End is named _Mayon_ or _Mean_. In

this place is the large stone spoken of by Dr. Borlase under the name

of "_Table mean_," and concerning which there is a vague tradition that

three kings once dined together on it, in their journey to the Land's

End.

On the turf between this village and the Land's End, the Botanist will

find _Bartsia Viscosa_, and _Illocebrum Verticillatum_, the latter of

which is peculiar to this county.

Having arrived at the celebrated Promontory, we descend a rapid slope,

which brings us to a bold group of rocks, composing the western

extremity of our island. Some years ago a military officer who visited

this spot, was rash enough to descend on horseback; the horse soon

became unruly, plunged, reared, and, fearful to relate, fell backwards

over the precipice, and rolling from rock to rock was dashed to

atoms before it reached the sea. The rider was for some time unable

to disengage himself, but at length by a desperate effort he threw

himself off, and was happily caught by some fragments of rock, at the

very brink of the precipice, where he remained suspended in a state of

insensibility until assistance could be afforded him! The awful spot is

marked by the figure of a horse-shoe, traced on the turf with a deep

incision, which is cleared out from time to time, in order to preserve

it as a monument of rashness which could be alone equalled by the good

fortune with which it was attended.

Why any promontory in an island should be exclusively denominated the

Land's _End_, it is difficult to understand; yet so powerful is the

charm of a name, that many persons have visited it on no other account;

the intelligent tourist, however, will receive a much more substantial

gratification from his visit; the great geological interest of the spot

will afford him an ample source of entertainment and instruction, while

the magnificence of its convulsed scenery, the ceaseless roar, and deep

intonation of the ocean, and the wild shrieks of the Cormorant, all

combine to awaken the blended sensations of awe and admiration.

The cliff which bounds this extremity is rather abrupt than elevated,

not being more than sixty feet above the level of the sea. It is

composed entirely of Granite, the forms of which present a very

extraordinary appearance, assuming in some places the resemblance

of _shafts_ that had been regularly cut with the chisel; in others,

regular equidistant fissures divide the rock into horizontal masses,

and give it the character of basaltic columns; in other places, again,

the impetuous waves of the ocean have opened, for their retreat,

gigantic arches, through which the angry billows roll and bellow with

tremendous fury.

Several of these rocks from their grotesque forms have acquired

whimsical appellations, as that of the _Armed Knight_, the _Irish

Lady_, &c. An inclining rock on the side of a craggy headland, south

of the Land's End, has obtained the name of _Dr. Johnson's Head_, and

visitors after having heard the appellation seldom fail to acknowledge

that it bears some resemblance to the physiognomy of that extraordinary

man.

On the north, this rocky scene is terminated by a promontory 229 feet

above the level of the sea, called "_Cape Cornwall_," between which and

the Land's End, the coast retires, and forms _Whitsand Bay_, a name

which it derives from, the peculiar whiteness of its sand, and amongst

which the naturalist will find several rare microscopic shells. There

are, besides, some historical recollections which invest this spot with

interest. It was in this bay that Stephen landed on his first arrival

in England; as did king John, on his return from Ireland; and Perkin

Warbeck, in the prosecution of those claims to the crown to which some

late writers have been disposed to consider that he was entitled,

as the real son of Edward the Fourth. In the rocks near the southern

termination of _Whitsand Bay_ may be seen the junction of the granite

and slate; large veins of the former may be also observed to traverse

the latter in all directions.

In viewing the whole of the scenery of this stern coast "it is

impossible" says De Luc, "not to be struck with the idea, that _the

bed of the sea is the effect of a vast subsidence_, in which the

strata were broken off on the edge of what, by the retreat of the

sea towards the sunken part, became a _continent_; the many small

islands, or rocks of granite, appear to be the memorials of the land's

abridgement, being evidently parts of the sunken strata remaining more

elevated than the rest." There is a small _Archipelago_ of this kind

called the _Long-ships_, at the distance of two miles west of the

Land's end; on the largest of these rocks is a light-house, which was

erected in consequence of the very dangerous character of the coast, by

a Mr. Smith, in the year 1797, who obtained a grant from the Trinity

House, and was rewarded for a limited number of years by a certain

rate on all ships that passed it. This period having expired, it is at

present under the jurisdiction of the Trinity House.[39] The tower is

constructed of granite, the stones of which are _trenailed_ on the same

plan as that adopted by Smeaton in the construction of the Eddystone

light-house. The circumference of the tower at its base is 68 feet; the

height from the rock to the vane of the lantern, 52 feet; and from the

sea to the base of the light-house it is 60 feet; but notwithstanding

this elevation its lantern has been often dashed to pieces by the

spray of the ocean during the winter's tempest! The management of this

establishment is entrusted to two men, who during the winter are often,

for two or three months, confined to this sea-girt prison without the

possibility of communicating with the land; they accordingly lay in a

store of provisions, as if they were about to embark for a long voyage.

We have already stated that the historians of Cornwall, from Leland,

Norden, and Carew, downwards, have all recorded the ancient tradition

of a considerable portion of the Mount's bay having been formerly

woodland. They have likewise handed down the concurrent tradition

relative to the supposed tract of land which once connected the

islands of Scilly with Cornwall. This tract, to which we are told

was given the name of the _Lioness_ ("_the Silurian Lyonois_,") is

said to have contained one hundred and forty parish churches, all

of which were swept away by the resistless ocean! As to the Cornish

word _Lethowstow_, or _Lioness_, by which the sea between Scilly and

Cornwall is distinguished, we may observe, that the appropriation of

such a term is sufficiently accounted for from the general violence

and turbulence of the sea, just as the celebrated rock lying south of

the channel between the Land's end and Scilly retains the name of the

_Wolf_,[40] from the howling of the waves around it. Those who may

wish for farther evidence upon this subject may consult _Mr. Boase's_

excellent memoir "On the submersion of part of the Mount's bay,"

published in the second volume of the Transactions of the Geological

Society of Cornwall.

We shall in this place make a short digression, in order to afford some

account of the _Scilly Islands_, which are situated in a cluster about

nine leagues, west by south, from the Land's end, and are distinctly

visible from it.

The SCILLY ISLANDS were called by the Greeks _Hesperides_ and

_Capiterides_, or the _Tin Isles_, and by this name they are mentioned

by Diodorus Siculus, Strabo, and Solinus. They must, however, have

undergone some material revolution since the age of these writers,

for we fail in every attempt to reconcile their present state with

the description which they have transmitted to us; and what is very

unaccountable, not a vestige of any ancient mine can be discovered in

the islands, except in one part of _Trescow_; and these remains are

so limited, that they rather give an idea of an attempt at discovery,

than of extensive and permanent mining. We are strongly inclined to

believe that the Tin of those days came, in part at least, from the

opposite coast of Saint Just, but of this we shall hereafter speak more

fully. In the time of Strabo we learn that the number of these Islands

did not exceed _ten_, whereas at present there are upwards of _one

hundred and forty_, but of which the following only are inhabited, viz.

_Saint Mary's_,_ Saint Agnes'_, _Saint Martin's_, _Trescow_, _Bryer_,

and _Sampson_. It is curious that the name of the cluster should have

been derived from one of the smallest of the islets (Scilly), whose

surface does not exceed an acre. The number of inhabitants amounts to

about two thousand, nearly half of which reside in Saint Mary's, which

contains 1600 acres; it possesses three towns, a pier, a garrison, a

custom house, and some monuments of British antiquity.

At SAINT AGNES is a very high and strong light-house, which was erected

in the year 1680. Its present machinery was designed by the ingenious

Adam Walker, the well known lecturer on Natural Philosophy, although

it has lately undergone some modification at the suggestion of Mr.

Wyatt. The machinery consists of a triangular frame attached to a

perpendicular axis, which, by means of an appropriate power, is made

to revolve once every three minutes. On each face of the triangle

are arranged ten parabolic reflectors of copper plated with silver,

each having an argand lamp in its focus. By this device the light

progressively sweeps the whole horizon, and by its regular intermission

and increase is readily distinguished from every other on the coast.[41]

The civil government of these islands is chiefly managed by twelve of

the principal inhabitants, who meet monthly at Heugh Town, St. Mary's,

and settle differences by compromise. The Duke of Leeds holds the

islands by lease for thirty-one years from the year 1800, at the rent

of £40, besides paying the fine of £4000, as a renewal.

The reader is no doubt anxiously waiting to be introduced to the

classical descendants of the Grecian or Phoenician race,--Whether

they have been swallowed up with the "Lioness," or washed into the

ocean by the tempests, we know not; but certain it is that the

present inhabitants are all new comers;--Phoenician or Grecian, there

are none.--_Jenkins_, _Ellis_, _Hicks_, _Woodcock_, _Ashford_, and

_Gibson_[42] are names which would even defy the ingenious author of

the Diversions of Purley to trace to a classical source.

The Scillonians are a robust and healthy people, and were it not for

the facility with which they obtain spirits, they would attain a very

advanced age. It is a common saying amongst them, and is no doubt

intended to express how highly favourable the spot is to longevity,

although it obviously admits of another construction, that "_for

one man who dies a natural death_, _nine are drowned_." It has been

remarked that a deformed person is not to be found in the islands; but

we apprehend that this fact requires an explanation very different from

that which is usually assigned; it cannot be received as any test of

the salubrity of the spot, or of the superior healthiness of the race;

the fact is simply this, that exposure to inclement weather, want of

proper food, and those various privations which necessarily increase

as we recede from the luxuries of civilization, kill, during infancy,

those feeble subjects which might, otherwise, have become deformed

during the progress of their growth. It is for the same reason that we

so frequently observe the troops of barbarous countries composed of the

most athletic individuals, for the hardship of their service weeds out

the feeble and invalid. We have already alluded to the tenacity with

which the Cornishman clings to his native soil, but the attachment of

the Scillonian, if possible, is still stronger to his desolate rock.

What a striking contrast does this form with the roving inhabitant

of an alluvial country, where every object, it might be presumed,

was calculated to excite and sustain the strongest attachment; but

this principle of Nature is wise and universal,--the plant is easily

loosened from a generous soil, but with what difficulty is the lichen

torn from its rock.

The islanders are chiefly employed in Ashing, making kelp from the

_Algæ_, which is disposed of to the Bristol merchant for the use of

the glass manufacturer, and in pilotage. From a combination, however,

of unfortunate circumstances, in addition to the fatal blow given

to the smuggling trade, by the activity of the preventive service,

the inhabitants were reduced to such extreme distress that it became

necessary in the year 1819 to appeal to the generosity of the public in

their behalf; and, notwithstanding the great difficulties of the times,

the sum of nine thousand pounds was collected for their relief. In

this great work of charity it is but an act of justice to state, that

the Society for promoting Christian knowledge, by their purse, as well

as by their writings, performed a very essential service. The funds

thus obtained were in part appropriated to the relief of the immediate

and pressing distress under which they laboured, while the remainder

was very judiciously applied towards the promotion of such permanent

advantages as might prevent the chance of its recurrence. A Fish-cellar

was accordingly provided in the island of Trescow, for the purpose of

storing and curing Ash; boats adapted for the Mackarel and Pilchard

Fisheries were purchased, and others were repaired; nets and various

kinds of tackling were also at the same time liberally supplied. By

such means have the inhabitants of these cheerless rocks been enabled

to avail themselves of some of the resources which Providence has

placed within their reach, and their families have been thus enabled

to exist without the dread of absolute starvation.[43] Much, however,

still remains for philanthropic exertion, and should this humble volume

fall into the hands of those, who are enabled by the superior gifts

of fortune to contribute to the wants of their unhappy brethren, we

may perhaps serve their cause by stating that any donation, however

small, will be received by _Henry Boase, Esq._ at the Penzance Bank.

The greatest benefit would arise from the extension of their fisheries,

for in consequence of the peculiar situation and convenience of these

islands, the Cod and Ling fisheries might be carried to almost any

extent; and, while boats in any part even of the Mount's Bay, would

be weather-bound with the wind W.S.W. to S., they can proceed from

Scilly into the channel, without the least difficulty. The Scillonians,

however, have as yet been unable to avail themselves of the advantages

of their locality; the want of proper boats prevents their proceeding

in the pursuit of their occupation, farther than four or five leagues

from the land.

During the summer months various species of fish are caught with hook

and line; among the smaller kind, which are salted by the Scillonians

for their winter consumption, are "_Bass_, _Wrass_, _Chad_, _Scad_,

_Brit_, _Barne_, _Cuddle_, _Whistlers_," &c. all of which are included

by the islanders under the general appellation of "_Rock-fish_."

There is a very curious fact noticed here with respect to the

_Woodcock_. These birds generally arrive in Scilly before they are

observed in any part of England; more frequently with a north-east,[44]

though sometimes with a north-west wind, and are often so exhausted as

to be caught in great numbers by the inhabitants, especially near the

light-house, the splendour of whose light appears to attract them, and

striking against its lantern they not unfrequently fall lifeless in the

gallery. It is for the naturalist to consider from whence they migrate.

The Climate of these islands is both milder and more equable than that

of Cornwall, but this advantage is counterbalanced by the frequent

occurrence of the most sudden and violent storms. By those who have

kept journals it has been found that not more than six days of perfect

calm occur in the course of a year, and that the wind blows from

between S.W. and N.W. for more than half of that period.

With respect to Geology, these islands will afford but little variety;

with the exception of some beds of _Porphyry_ at Saint Mary's, and

some beds of _Chlorite_, containing _Pyrites_, in the same island,

they consist entirely of Granite, and are doubtless a continuation

of the Devonian range, although the rock assumes an appearance less

porphyritic; it contains, however, veins of red Granite. At the

Lizard Point in the island of Trescow, a variety of granite occurs,

in which the felspar is of a remarkably pure white, and might, we

should conceive, be advantageously employed in the manufacture of

Porcelain. In some chasms of this rock, and in the centre of large

masses, the _Mica_ is of a silvery hue, and occurs crystallized in

its primitive form. In the same island is a remarkable cavern, in the

centre of which is a pool of fresh water. The porphyritic beds in

Saint Mary's are interesting on account of the distinct appearance of

stratification which they display, and _Mr. Majendie_ thinks that an

undoubted instance of stratified granite is to be seen near the same

spot. The Granite of Scilly is very liable to decomposition; whence

has arisen all that fancied statuary of the Druids, of which we have

spoken in another place. The Islands are undoubtedly undergoing a

gradual diminution. At no great distance of time Saint Mary's will

probably be divided by the sea, and a channel formed through the low

land between the New-town and the south-east side of the garrison.

This might perhaps be prevented by throwing down masses of granite

from a neighbouring hill, so as to form a barrier against the sea. The

object may be worthy of attention, as the sea in winter, with a high

tide, has been known to pass over this land, and the effect of its

forcing a channel there would be to divide the garrison from the rest

of the island. If the Geologist proceeds to a spot behind the quay,

and between the front of the garrison-hill and that island, he will

be gratified by the discovery of a process the very converse of that

which we have been just describing. In these places the granitic sand

is becoming indurated by the slow infiltration of water holding iron in

solution, and which appears to be derived from the decomposing hills

above it. Some fine specimens of this "_regenerated_" granite have been

placed in the Geological Society's cabinet at Penzance.

We now return to the Land's End,--from which we should proceed to

visit a promontory, called "_Castle Treryn_," where is situated the

celebrated "_Logan Stone_." If we pursue our route along the cliffs,

it will be found to lie several miles south-east of the Land's End,

although by taking the direct and usual road across the country, it is

not more than two miles distant; but the Geologist must walk, or ride

along the coast on horseback, and we can assure him that he will be

amply recompensed for his trouble.

From the Cape on which the signal station is situated, the rock scenery

is particularly magnificent, exhibiting an admirable specimen of the

manner, and forms, into which Granite disintegrates. About forty yards

from this Cape is the promontory called _Tol-Pedn-Penwith_, which in

the Cornish language signifies the _holed headland in Penwith_. The

name is derived from a singular chasm, known by the appellation of the

_Funnel Rock_; it is a vast perpendicular excavation in the granite,

resembling in figure an inverted cone, and has been evidently produced

by the gradual decomposition of one of those vertical veins with which

this part of the coast is so frequently intersected. By a circuitous

route you may descend to the bottom of the cavern, into which the sea

flows at high water. Here the Cornish Chough (_Corvus Graculus_) has

built its nest for several years, a bird which is very common about the

rocky parts of this coast, and may be distinguished by its red legs and

bill, and the violaceous blackness of its feathers. This promontory

forms the Western extremity of the Mount's Bay. The antiquary will

discover in this spot the vestiges of one of the ancient "_Cliff

Castles_," which were little else than stone walls, stretching across

necks of land from cliff to cliff. The only geological phenomenon

worthy of particular notice is a large and beautiful contemporaneous

vein of _red Granite_ containing _Shorl_; is one foot in width, and may

be seen for about forty feet in length.

Continuing our route around the coast we at length arrive at "_Castle

Treryn_." Its name is derived from the supposition of its having been

the site of an ancient British fortress, of which there are still some

obscure traces, although the wild and rugged appearance of the rocks

indicate nothing like art.

[Illustration]

The foundation of the whole is a stupendous group of Granite rocks,

which rise in pyramidal clusters to a prodigious altitude, and overhang

the sea. On one of those pyramids is situated the celebrated "_Logan

Stone_," which is an immense block of Granite weighing above 60 tons.

The surface in contact with the under rock is of very small extent,

and the whole mass is so nicely balanced, that, notwithstanding its

magnitude, the strength of a single man applied to its under edge is

sufficient to change its centre of gravity, and though at first in

a degree scarcely perceptible, yet the repetition of such impulses,

at each return of the stone, produces at length a very sensible

oscillation! As soon as the astonishment which this phenomenon excites

has in some measure subsided, the stranger anxiously enquires how, and

whence the stone originated--was it elevated by human means, or was it

produced by the agency of natural causes?--Those who are in the habit

of viewing mountain masses with geological eyes, will readily discover

that the only chisel ever employed has been the tooth of time--the

only artist engaged, the elements. Granite usually disintegrates into

rhomboidal and tabular masses, which by the farther operation of air

and moisture gradually lose their solid angles, and approach the

spheroidal form. _De Luc_ observed, in the Giant mountains of Silesia,

spheroids of this description so piled upon each other as to resemble

Dutch cheeses; and appearances, no less illustrative of the phenomenon,

may be seen from the signal station to which we have just alluded. The

fact of the upper part of the cliff being more exposed to atmospheric

agency, than the parts beneath, will sufficiently explain why these

rounded masses so frequently rest on blocks which still preserve the

tabular form; and since such spheroidal blocks must obviously rest

in that position in which their lesser axes are perpendicular to the

horizon, it is equally evident that whenever an adequate force is

applied they must vibrate on their point of support.

Although we are thus led to deny the Druidical _origin_ of this stone,

for which so many zealous antiquaries have contended, still we by

no means intend to deny that the Druids employed it as an engine of

superstition; it is indeed very probable that, having observed so

uncommon a property, they dexterously contrived to make it answer

the purposes of an ordeal, and by regarding it as the _touchstone_

of truth, acquitted or condemned the accused by its motions. Mason

poetically alludes to this supposed property in the following lines.

"Behold yon huge

And unknown sphere of living adamant,

Which, pois'd by magic, rests its central weight

On yonder pointed rock: firm as it seems,

Such is its strange, and virtuous property,

It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch

Of him, whose heart is pure, but to a traitor,

Tho' e'en a giant's prowess nerv'd his arm,

It stands as fix'd as Snowdon."

The rocks are covered with a species of _Byssus_ long and rough to

the touch, forming a kind of hoary beard; in many places they are

deeply furrowed, carrying with them a singular air of antiquity, which

combines with the whole of the romantic scenery to awaken in the

minds of the poet and enthusiast the recollection of the Druidical

ages. The Botanist will observe the common Thrift (_Statice Armeria_)

imparting a glowing tinge to the scanty vegetation of the spot, and, by

growing within the crevices of the rocks, affording a very picturesque

contrast to their massive fabric. Here too the _Daucus Maritimus_, or

wild carrot; _Sedum Telephium_, _Saxifraga Stellaris_, and _Asplenium

Marinum_, may be found in abundance.

The Granite in this spot is extremely beautiful, on account of its

porphyritic appearance; the crystals of felspar are numerous and

distinct; in some places the rock is traversed by veins of red felspar,

and of black tourmaline, or schorl, of which the crystalline forms of

the prisms, on account of their close aggregation, are very indistinct.

Here may also be observed a contemporaneous vein of _schorl rock_ in

the granite, nearly two feet wide, highly inclined and very short,

and not having any distinct walls. On the western side of the Logan

rock is a cavern, formed by the decomposition of a vein of granite,

the felspar of which assumes a brilliant flesh-red, and lilac colour;

and, where it is polished by the sea, exceeding even in beauty the

_Serpentine caverns_ at the Lizard.

Mr. Majendie observed in this spot numerous veins of fine grained

granite, which he is inclined to consider as _cotemporaneous_; he

also observed what, at first sight, appeared to be fragments, but

which, upon closer examination, he pronounces to be _cotemporaneous

concretions_; for large crystals of _felspar_ may be seen shooting from

the porphyritic granite into these apparent fragments. These phenomena

are extremely interesting in a geological point of view, and well

deserve the attention of the scientific tourist.

In Treryn cove, just below the site of the castle, Dr. Maton found

several of the rarer species of shells, as _Patella Pellucida_, _P.

Fissura_, _Mytilus Modiolus_, _Trochus Conulus_, _Turbo Cimex_, and _T.

Fascitatus_ (of Pennant.)

Before we quit this coast we beg to state, for the information of the

geological tourist, that the _Granite_ which we have just traced from

beyond the Land's End to this spot, continues until within half a mile

of the signal post near Lemorna cove, where it meets with a patch of

slate, and is lost for about the space of three quarters of a mile. At

the western extremity of this junction (_Carn Silver_) the mineralogist

will find embedded Garnet-rock with veins of _Epidote_ and _Axinite_.

Here may also be seen the rare occurrence of a granite vein penetrating

both the slate and the granitic rock.

But let us return.----About two miles north-east of the Logan rock, and

in the high road to Penzance, stands the town of SAINT BURYAN, which

though now only a group of wretched cottages was once a place of very

considerable note, and the seat of a College of Augustine Canons; the

latter was founded by Athelstan after his return from the conquest of

the Scilly Islands, A.D. 930. The remains of the College were wantonly

demolished by one Shrubshall, Governor of Pendennis Castle, during the

usurpation of Cromwell.

The Church tower stands on the highest point in this part of the

country, being 467 feet above the level of the sea; it consequently

forms a very conspicuous object, and is so exposed to the rains from

the Atlantic, that the stones carry a deceptive face of freshness with

them which lends an aspect of newness to the whole building. From the

top of the tower the prospect is of a very extensive kind, commanding

the whole range of the surrounding country, and an immense surface of

sea. In clear weather the Scilly Islands may be easily distinguished in

the horizon, especially with a setting sun, when they appear to project

from the brilliant ground of the western sky like figures embossed on

burnished gold.

Both from the history and appearance of this edifice the antiquary will

enter it with sensations of awe and veneration, but he will find with

regret that the ancient Roodloft has been lately removed, from an idea

that it deadened the voice of the preacher, and that the parishioners

have also converted the original forms into modern pews, a change which

has cruelly violated the venerable uniformity of the interior. There is

a singular monument in the church, in the shape of a coffin, having an

inscription around the border in very rude characters, and now partly

obliterated; it is in Norman French, and has been thus translated.

CLARICE

The wife of Geffrei de Bollait lies here

God of her soul have mercy

They who pray for her soul shall have

Ten days Pardon.

On the middle of the stone is represented a Cross fleury, standing on

four steps; the monument is said to have been found many years ago by

the sexton, while sinking a grave.

Opposite the great door in the church-yard stands a very ancient Cross,

on one side of which are five balls, and, on the other, a rude figure

intended to represent the crucified Saviour. We here present our

readers with a sketch of this singular monument.

[Illustration: _Buryan Church-yard._]

Another Cross stands in the road, and faces the entrance into the

church-yard, of which also we have introduced a delineation.

[Illustration: _Buryan._]

The Deanery is in the gift of the Crown, as a royal peculiar, and is

tenable with any other preferment. The Dean exercises an independent

jurisdiction in all ecclesiastical matters within the parish of St.

Burian, and its dependent parishes of St. Levan, and Sennan. He is

the Rector, and is entitled to all tithes. A Visitation court is held

in his name, and the appeal from it is only to the King in council.

Athelstan is said to have granted to this church the privilege of a

Sanctuary, and a ruin overgrown with ivy; standing on an estate called

_Bosliven_, about a mile east from the church, is thought to be its

remains, but Mr. Lysons justly observes that the _Sanctuary_ usually

comprised the church itself, and perhaps a certain privileged space

beyond it, and that the ruins to which the tradition attaches, are

probably those only of an ancient chapel.

From St. Buryan the traveller may at once return to Penzance, which

is about six miles distant, but as no object of particular interest

will occur in the direct road, it is unnecessary for us to attend him

thither. Should he, however, be inclined to extend his excursion, he

will receive much gratification in returning by a somewhat circuitous

route along the southern coast, through the parish of Saint Paul.

In this case, we may first proceed to _Boskenna_, the seat of John

Paynter Esq. a highly romantic spot, abounding with woodcocks, and

which under the direction of a skilful landscape gardener might be

made to emulate in beauty any of the charming villas that adorn the

under-cliff of the Isle of Wight. On this estate there is a superficial

quarry of decomposing granite, which the mineralogist ought to visit,

for the purpose of obtaining some remarkably fine specimens of felspar

in separate crystals, which may be easily removed from the mass in

which they lie imbedded.

At _Bolleit_, in a croft near Boskenna, and adjoining the high road,

is to be seen a circle of stones very similar to that we have already

described (p. 81,) except that it has not a central pillar; the

appellation given to these stones is that of the "_Merry Maidens_,"

on account of a whimsical tradition, that they were once young women

transformed like Niobe into stones, as a punishment for the crime of

dancing on the Sabbath day. In a field on the opposite side of the road

there are two upright stones standing about a furlong asunder, the

one being nearly twelve, the other sixteen feet in height. They are

probably sepulchral monuments; the same ridiculous tradition, however,

attaches to them as to the circle, and has accordingly bestowed upon

them the appellation of the "_Pipers_."

At CARN BOSCAWEN, on this coast, is to be seen a very extraordinary

group of rocks, consisting of a large flat stone, the ends of which

are so poised upon the neighbouring rocks, as to leave an opening

underneath; _Dr. Borlase_, with his accustomed zeal, insists upon its

Druidical origin, and ever ready to supply the deficiency of both

history and tradition by the sallies of an active imagination, very

confidently informs us, that "this said opening beneath the pensile

stone was designed for the seat of some considerable person, from which

he might give out his edicts, and decisions, his predictions, and

admissions to Noviciates"!--_Risum teneatis geologici?_

In our road to Saint Paul, we pass _Trouve_, or _Trewoof_, an estate

situated on the side of a woody hill, overlooking a romantic valley,

which is terminated by _Lemorna Cove_, a spot which should be visited

by every stranger who delights in the "lone majesty of untamed Nature."

Within the estate of Trouve are the remains of a triple entrenchment,

in which runs a subterranean passage; and, it is said, that during

the civil wars a party of Royalists were here concealed from the

observation of the forces of Sir Thomas Fairfax. There is a fine

chalybeate spring on this estate.

At KERRIS, in the parish of Paul, about five miles from Penzance, is

an oval enclosure called "_Roundago_," which is stated to have been

connected with Druidical rites; time and the Goths, however, have

nearly destroyed its last remains, so that the antiquary will require

the eyes of a Borlase to recognise its existence by any description

hitherto given of it.

PAUL CHURCH is a very conspicuous object from its high elevation,[45]

and interests the historian from the tradition, already stated, of its

having been burnt by the Spaniards, upon which occasion the south porch

alone is said, in consequence of the direction of the wind, to have

escaped the conflagration. A pleasing confirmation of this tradition

was lately afforded during some repairs, when one of the wooden

supporters was found charred at the end nearest the body of the church.

It also deserves notice that the thick stone division at the back of

the _Trewarveneth_ pew, which has so frequently occasioned enquiry, is

a part of the old church, which escaped the fire. In the church is the

following curious notice of its having been burnt, "_The Spanger burnt

this church in the year 1595_."

Most tourists inform us that in this church-yard is to be seen the

monumental stone, with the epitaph of _Old Dolly Pentreath_, so

celebrated among antiquaries, as having been the last person who spoke

the Cornish language. Such a monument, however, if it ever existed, is

no longer to be found, nor can any information be obtained with regard

to its probable locality. Her Epitaph is said to have been both in the

Cornish and English language, viz.

"Coth Dol Pentreath canz ha deaw

Marir en Bedans en Powl pleu

Na en an Eglar ganna Poble braz

Bet en Eglar Hay Coth Dolly es!"

"Old Dol Pentreath, one hundred age and two

Both born, and in Paul Parish buried too;

Not in the Church 'mongst people great and high

But in the Church-yard doth old Dolly lie!"

In the parishes of Paul and Buryan are several Tin streams; in some of

which the _Wood Tin_, or wood-like oxide of Tin, is occasionally found

in large, and well defined pieces. It has been also, although rarely,

found in its matrix.

From Paul Church we may proceed to Penzance, either by the high

road over Paul Hill, which becomes extremely interesting from the

picturesque beauty and superior cultivation of the country; or we may

descend towards the sea shore, and return through the villages of

_Mousehole_ and _Newlyn_, which may be called colonies of Fishermen,

for here the Pilchard[46] and Mackarel fisheries are carried on to a

very great extent; and every kind of fish which frequent this coast are

caught and sent to Penzance, and other Cornish towns; and, in the early

part of the season, they supply the London market with Mackarel, which

are conveyed thither by way of Portsmouth. The Lobster fishery also

proves an ample source of revenue to the Mount's Bay fishermen, from

which alone they divide not less than Two Thousand Pounds, annually.

The ride or walk along the coast from MOUSEHOLE to NEWLYN is highly

interesting. The former town which is situated about two miles

south-west of Penzance; and half a mile from Paul Church-town, contains

about six hundred inhabitants. There is a small Pier capable of

admitting vessels of one hundred tons burthen; but it is chiefly used

as a harbour for the numerous fishing boats.

NEWLYN, with respect to population, exceeds by one-third that of

Mousehole. It has a commodious pier, which is also usually occupied by

the fishing boats of the place, which exceed four hundred in number. In

the cliff-road between these villages, we pass a platform, which during

the late war was a _battery_, forming a security to the bay from any

privateers that might visit it. Adjoining this battery stands a furnace

for the purpose of heating the shot. It was under the direction of a

small party of the Royal Artillery.

The Geologist in performing this part of the excursion will have much

to observe. About one hundred yards west of Mousehole, the clay-slate

ceases, and the granite commences. At this junction numerous granite

veins, varying in width from about a foot to less than an inch, pass

through the slate.[47] A little farther west, a cavern may be observed

in the cliff, which has evidently been produced by the decomposition of

the walls of an old _Adit_. In this cavern the Mineralogist has found

good specimens of _Eisenkeisel_, or Iron flint:--but we will conclude,

for our tourist must be wearied by the length of the excursion;

tomorrow we shall be again prepared to accompany him in a different

direction, and to point out a succession of fresh objects, when

antiquities, minerals, and picturesque views will, in their turn, again

present themselves for his examination.

[Illustration: _Between Penzance, and Buryan._]

FOOTNOTES:

[35] This product is carefully collected, and preserved in stacks by

the inhabitants, for the purpose of fuel. It is worthy of remark that

the nature of the fuel employed in a country always imparts a character

to its cookery, hence the striking difference between that of Paris and

London; so in Cornwall, the convenience afforded by the furze in the

process of Baking, has given origin to the general use of pies. Every

article of food is dressed in a pie, whence it has become a proverb,

that "_the Devil will not come into Cornwall, for fear of being put

into a pie_." In a season of scarcity the Attorneys of the county

having at the Quarter Sessions very properly resolved to abstain from

every kind of pastry, an allusion to the above proverb was very happily

introduced into an Epigram, extemporaneously delivered on the occasion,

and which, from its point and humour, deserves to be recorded--

"If the proverb be true, that the fame of our pies

Prevents us from falling to Satan a prey,

It is clear that _his friends_--the Attorneys,--are wise

In moving such obstacles out of the way."

[36] We insert the following facts collected by _Dr. Paris_, from the

first volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of

Cornwall--"The total quantity of Granite shipped at Falmouth during

the last seven years, amounts to _Forty Thousand Tons_. It has been

employed for building the Docks at Chatham, and the Waterloo Bridge in

London. The lands in the vicinity of Penhryn have furnished it; indeed

the quantity actually quarried has been considerably greater, for many

of the blocks, in consequence of being damaged, have been condemned

and sold at a low price to the inhabitants for building, and other

purposes. The number of men generally employed in quarrying it is about

four hundred; their wages from twelve to eighteen shillings per week,

varying with the quantity raised. The lord of the soil receives one

halfpenny a foot for all that is quarried; the freight during war was

as high as 25 shillings per ton, at present it is only 16s. Fourteen

cubic feet weigh one ton. The weight of the blocks generally varies,

from five _cwt._ to seven tons."

[37] It is not more than three hundred years since the art of husbandry

was first introduced. The lands were formerly all in common, and the

inhabitants being wholly engaged in the mines, actually let out their

pastures to the graziers of Devon, by whom they were in return supplied

with cattle and corn.

[38] _Church-Town._ This expression is peculiar to Cornwall--the fact

is, that since many market, and even Borough towns are _without_ a

church, the Cornish dignify those that have it with the title of

_Church-town_.

[39] We take this opportunity to state, that the annual revenue of the

Long-ships light-house is about three thousand pounds. Every British

vessel that passes pays a halfpenny per ton;--every foreign vessel pays

one shilling, without reference to its tonnage.

[40] It is a curious fact that the whole or part of this rock is _Lime

stone_.

[41] Vessels passing this light pay the same dues as those received by

the Long-ships, except in the case of coasting vessels, which pay, not

according to their tonnage, but simply a shilling per vessel.

[42] One half of the inhabitants of St. Agnes are named _Hicks_; one

quarter of those of Trescow, and a third of those at Bryher are called

_Jenkins_; and a half of St. Martin's is divided between _Ellis_ and

_Ashford_.

[43] See "A view of the present state of the Scilly Islands; exhibiting

their vast importance to the British Empire, the Improvements of which

they are susceptible, and a particular account of the means lately

adopted for ameliorating the condition of the Inhabitants, by the

establishment and extension of their Fisheries. By the Rev. George

Woodley, Missionary from the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge;

and Minister of St. Agnes, and St. Martin's." _8vo. pp. 344. London,

1822._

[44] The same wind is said to bring them on the Southern shores of

Ireland. It is generally believed that they come from Norway, not so

much to avoid the cold, as to obtain the worms which are locked up in

the earth during the frost.

[45] It may be observed in the engraving of Saint Michael's Mount, on

the elevated line of coast which forms the back ground to the picture.

[46] A History of the Pilchard Fishery will be presented to our readers

in the Excursion to Saint Ives.

[47] See _Mr. Majendie's_ interesting account of this phenomenon in the

first volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.

EXCURSION III.

TO BOTALLACK MINE; CAPE CORNWALL; AND THE MINING DISTRICT OF SAINT JUST.

To exhibit the greatest variety of interesting objects, in the least

possible space and time, may be said to constitute the essential

excellence of a "_Guide_." For the accomplishment of such a purpose

we now proceed to conduct the stranger to _Botallack Mine_ and _Cape

Cornwall_, through the Parishes of Madron, Morvah, and Saint Just.

In our road to the village of Madron, or Madron _Church-town_, as

it is commonly called, we pass _Nancealverne_, the estate of John

Scobell Esq., _Poltair_, the residence of Edward Scobell Esq., and

_Trengwainton_ the seat of Sir Rose Price, Bart. At this latter

place considerable exertions have been made to raise plantations,

and to clothe the granitic hills behind it with wood; and from the

progress already made, we feel sanguine in the ultimate success of

the enterprize. Amongst the pictures in the possession of the worthy

Baronet are several of the earlier productions of Opie. The head of an

aged beggar, by that artist, has frequently excited our admiration,

and presents a characteristic specimen of the native simplicity and

expression of his style, and the magic force of his chiaro-scuro. This

head was painted also under circumstances, a knowledge of which cannot

fail to heighten its interest. The father of Sir Rose having been

struck by the venerable aspect of an aged mendicant as he was begging

in the streets of Penzance, immediately sent for Opie, then residing in

the town, and expressed a desire that the young artist should paint his

portrait. The beggar was accordingly regaled with a bounteous meal upon

the occasion, and Opie appears to have caught his expression at the

happy moment, when like the "Last Minstrel" of our northern bard,

----"Kindness had his wants supplied

And the old man was gratified."

The Village of Madron is about two miles to the north-west of Penzance.

The church is placed on an elevated situation, and commands a very

striking view of Saint Michael's Mount, and its bay. Penzance is a

Chapelry of this parish.

MADRON WELL is situated in a moor about a mile and a half from the

_Church-town_. It is enclosed within walls, which were partially

destroyed in the time of Cromwell, by Major Ceeley of St. Ives, but the

remains of them are still sufficiently entire to exhibit the form of an

ancient Baptistry.[48] The inner wall with its window and door-way, and

the altar with a square hole or socket in the centre, which received

the foot of the cross or image of the patron saint, are still perfect.

The foundation of the outer wall, or anti-room, may be traced with

great ease.

Superstition has, of course, attributed many virtues to waters which

had been thus hallowed, and this Well, like that of Chapel Euny, has

been long celebrated for its medicinal efficacy in restoring motion and

activity to cripples,[49] Baptism was administered only at the stated

times of Easter and Whitsuntide; but, at all seasons, the virtues of

the waters attracted the lame and the impotent; and the altar was at

hand to assist the devotion of their prayers, as well as to receive the

offerings of their gratitude.

Chemical analysis has been unable to detect in this water the presence

of _any_ active ingredient that might explain the beneficial operation

attributed to it.

In the road to Morvah we meet with the celebrated _Cromlech_[50]

at Lanyon. It is placed on a prominent hill, and from its lonely

situation, and the wildness of the country by which it is surrounded,

it cannot fail to inspire sensations of reverential awe in every one

who approaches it.[51] This rude monument has been long known amongst

the country people by the appellation of the "_Giant's Quoit_." When

the last edition of this "_Guide_" went to the press it was still

standing in its original position, and was thus described. It consists

of three unshapen pillars inclining from the perpendicular, which

support a large table stone (resembling a _Discus_ or _Quoit_) in a

horizontal position, the direction of which is nearly north and south.

The flat stone is 47 feet in girth, and 12 in length, and its height

from the ground is sufficient to enable a man on horseback to pass

under it.--The aged monument, however, has at length bent beneath the

hand of time, and fallen on its side. Its downfall, which happened

during a violent tempest, occasioned a universal feeling of regret in

the country.

In the same tenement, about a quarter of a mile west of Lanyon house,

is another monument of this kind, nearly as large as the former; and

it is singular that this should have been the only Cromlech in Corwall

which escaped the notice of Dr. Borlase. It has fallen on its edge, but

is still entire.

All our notions respecting the origin and use of these monuments are

purely conjectural; it seems, however, very probable that they are

the most ancient in the world, erected possibly by one of the first

colonists which came into the island. As Cromlechs are known to abound

in every country where the _Celts_ established themselves, many

antiquaries have concluded that they are of Celtic origin. The same

doubt and uncertainty involve every consideration with respect to their

use; it has been a general idea that they were intended for altars,

but the upper stone is evidently too gibbous ever to have admitted the

officiating priest, or to have allowed him to stand to overlook the

fire, and the consumption of the victim; besides, what occasion is

there to suppose a Cromlech any thing more than a sepulchral monument?

Is it not the most natural and probable conclusion? Indeed Mr. Wright

actually found a skeleton deposited under one of them in Ireland, and

it must strike the most superficial observer that our modern tombs are

not very dissimilar to the former in their construction, and probably

derived their form from a very ancient model.

MEN-AN-TOL. The next object of curiosity consists of three stones

on a triangular plane, the middle one of which is perforated with a

large hole, and is called _Men-an-Tol_, i. e. the _holed stone_. Dr.

Borlase who, as we have often observed, has recourse to the chisel of

Druidism to account for every cavity or crevice, conjectures that it

was appropriated to the rites of that priesthood, and asserts, on the

authority of a farmer, that even in his time, it was deemed to possess

the power of healing those who would crawl through it.

In a croft, about half a mile to the north-west of Lanyon, lies a

very ancient sepulchral stone, called by the Cornish "_Men Skryfa_,"

i. e. the _Inscribed Stone_. It is nine feet ten inches long, and

one foot eight inches broad; the inscription upon it is "_Riolobran

Cunoval Fil_," which signifies _Riolobran the Son of Cunoval lies

buried here_.[52] With respect to the date of this monument, all

antiquaries agree in thinking that it must have been engraven before

the corruptions crept into the Roman alphabet, such for instance as the

junction of the letters by unnatural links, or when the down strokes of

one were made to serve for two, &c. This practice arose soon after the

Romans went off, and increased until the Saxon letters were introduced

at Athelstan's conquest. The most striking deviation from the Roman

orthography to be observed in this monument is in the cross stroke

of the Roman N not being diagonal as it ought to be, nor yet quite

horizontal as we find it in the sixth century; and hence it is fair to

assign to it a date antecedent to that period.[53]

CHUN CASTLE, a prominent object in this neighbourhood, is similar to

_Caerbran Round_, which has been described, except that the ruins are

more extensive, and less confused. The remains occupy the whole area

of a hill commanding a wide tract of country to the east, some low

grounds to the north and south, and the wide expanded ocean to the

west. Another Cromlech may also be seen from this spot, and stands upon

the very line which divides the parishes of Morvah and Saint Just; but

it is far inferior to that at Lanyon. We will now for awhile abandon

the contemplation of these faded monuments of past ages, and proceed

to the examination of a rich and interesting field of mineralogical

and geological research. In introducing the stranger, however, to the

district of Saint Just, we must repeat to him the caution with which

Mr. Carne[54] has very prudently accompanied his history of its mineral

productions. "If the stranger on his arrival shall expect to find any

of the minerals so prominently situated as to salute his eyes at once;

or if he shall suppose that those objects which are especially worthy

of notice in a geological point of view, are to be discovered and

examined in the space of a few hours, he will be greatly mistaken and

disappointed; for very few, either of the minerals or the veins are

to be found _in situ_, except by a diligent, patient, and persevering

search."

Without further delay we shall now attend the traveller to _Pendeen

Cove_; in our road to which, the only objects worthy attention are the

Stamping Mills, and Burning Houses or Roasting Furnaces, belonging to

_Botallack Mine_. They are situated on the bank of the river which

runs into the sea at _Pendeen Cove_. The Tin ore of _Botallack_ is

generally mixed with a portion of _Sulphuret of Copper_, which not

being separable from it by the mechanical process of dressing, is

submitted to the action of a roasting furnace, by which the Copper

being converted into an oxide, and the Sulphur into Sulphuric acid,

_a Sulphate of Copper_ is thus produced, which is easily separated

by washing. The solution obtained is then poured into casks,

containing pieces of iron, by the agency of which the _Copper_ is

_precipitated_.[55]

There is to be seen at _Pendeen_, a cave, known by the name of _Pendeen

Vau_, and concerning which there are many ridiculous stories. It

appears to have been one of those hiding places in which the Britons

secreted themselves, and their property, from the attacks of the Saxons

and Danes. The cave is still almost entire, a circumstance which is

principally owing to the superstitious fears of the inhabitants, many

of whom, at this very day, entertain a dread of entering it.

At _Pendeen Cove_, the Geologist will meet with several phenomena well

worthy his attention. At the junction of the Slate and Granite, veins

of the latter will be observed traversing the former rock, and what

is particularly worthy of notice, they may be seen emanating from a

great mass of granite and passing into the schistose rock by which

it is covered. One part of the cliff of this cove consists of large

fragments of granite imbedded in clay and earth; the interstices of

which are filled with white sand, which has been probably blown there

from the beach; through this sand, water impregnated with iron is

slowly percolating, the effect of which is the induration of the sand,

and the formation of a _breccia_, which in some parts has acquired very

considerable hardness.

Before proceeding to the metalliferous district of Saint Just, we may

observe that, if the traveller's object be to reach Saint Ives by the

road along the cliffs, through the parish of _Zennor_, he will meet

with a most cheerless country, but by no means destitute of geological

interest. He ought particularly to examine a bold rocky promontory,

called the "_Gurnard's Head_," where he will find a succession of

beds of slaty felspar, hornblende rock, and greenstone. The geology

of this headland has been accurately described by _Dr. Forbes_ in the

second volume of the _Transactions of the Royal Geological Society

of Cornwall_. _Polmear Cove_ ought also to be visited on account of

the Granite veins, which are perhaps as singular and interesting

as any of those already described.--But let us proceed to complete

our examination of the coast of _Saint Just_. Many of the mines

are situated on the very edge of the cliff, and are wrought to a

considerable distance under the sea; but all communication to them is

from land.[56] For a description of the numerous minerals found in

this district,[57] we must refer the reader to the highly valuable

paper by _Joseph Carne, Esq_. which is published in the second volume

of the _Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall_. We

cannot, however, allow the mineralogist to pass _Trewellard_, without

reminding him that, at this spot, _Axinite_ was first discovered in

Cornwall, and that the most beautifully crystallized specimens of

that mineral, scarcely inferior to those brought from Dauphiné, may

still be procured here. In the cliff at _Huel Cock Carn_, a vein of

this mineral, of a violet colour, three feet in width, may be traced

for upwards of twenty yards; and in its vicinity there is to be found

also a vein of _garnet rock_. _Apatite_, of a greyish-white colour,

associated with _Hornblende_, may be seen in the same spot. In the

slate rocks between _Huel Cock_ and Botallack, _Prehnite_ has lately

been found, for the first time; it appears to form a small vein, which

in one part is divided into two branches. Upon the discovery of the

above mineral, says Mr. Joseph Carne, an expectation was naturally

formed, that _Zeolite_, its frequent associate, and an equal stranger

to Cornwall, might shortly make its appearance. This opinion has been

lately verified by the discovery of, at least, two varieties of that

mineral, imbedded in the _Prehnite_ vein, viz. _Stilbite_, or _foliated

Zeolite_, crystallized in flat four-sided prisms, with quadrangular

summits; and the _radiated Mesotype_, which sometimes contains nodules

of _Prehnite_. Other specimens have been found in rather an earthy

state, and may possibly be the _mealy Zeolite_ of Jameson. In the

same slate rocks _Apatite_ occurs of a yellowish-green colour, and

crystallized in hexaedral prisms. In the granite rocks on the high

hills south-east of Trewellard, _Pinite_ is to be observed.

We arrive at the "_Crown Engine_" of Botallack--

"How fearful

And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eyes so low,

The crows and choughs, that wing the midway air

Show scarce so gross as beetles:----

----I'll look no more,

Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight

Topple down headlong."

This is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary and surprising places

in the mining districts of Cornwall, whether considered for the rare

and rich assemblage of its minerals, or for the wild and stupendous

character of its rock scenery. Surely, if ever a spot seemed to bid

defiance to the successful efforts of the miner, it was the site of the

_Crown Engine_[58] at Botallack, where at the very commencement of his

subterranean labours, he was required to lower a steam engine down a

precipice of more than two hundred feet, with the view of extending his

operations under the bed of the Atlantic ocean!!! There is something

in the very idea which alarms the imagination; and the situation and

appearance of the gigantic machine, together with the harsh jarring of

its bolts, re-echoed from the surrounding rocks, are well calculated to

excite our astonishment.

But if you are thus struck and surprised at the scene when viewed from

the cliff above, how much greater will be your wonder if you descend

to the surface of the mine. You will then behold a combination of

the powers of art with the wild sublimity of Nature which is quite

unparalleled; the effects of the whole being not a little heightened

by the hollow roar of the raging billows which are perpetually lashing

the cliff beneath. In looking up you will observe troops of mules laden

with sacks of coals, for the supply of the engine, with their undaunted

riders, fearlessly trotting down the winding path which you trembled at

descending even on foot. As you approach the engine, the cliff becomes

almost perpendicular, and the ore raised from the mine is therefore

drawn up over an inclined plane,[59] by means of a horse engine placed

on the extreme verge of the overhanging rocks above, and which seems to

the spectator below as if suspended in "_mid air_."

The workings of this mine extend at least seventy fathoms in length

under the bed of the sea; and in these caverns of darkness are many

human beings, for a small pittance, and even that of a precarious

amount, constantly digging for ore, regardless of the horrors which

surround them, and of the roar of the Atlantic ocean, whose boisterous

waves are incessantly rolling over their heads. We should feel pity for

the wretch who, as an atonement for his crimes, should be compelled to

undergo the task which the Cornish miner voluntarily undertakes, and as

cheerfully performs; yet such is the force of habit, that very rarely

does any other employment tempt him to forsake his own; the perils of

his occupation are scarcely noticed, or if noticed, are soon forgotten.

The _Lode_[60] of the mine may be seen _cropping out_, in the group

of rocks beneath the engine. The ore is the grey and yellow sulphuret

of copper, mixed with the oxide of tin,[61] of which _she_[62] has

already "_turned up_" a sufficient quantity to afford a very handsome

premium to the adventurers. In the grey sulphuret of this mine, _purple

copper ore_, of the kind called by the Germans "_Buntkupfererz_," is

frequently met with. Besides which, a great number of interesting

minerals may be collected, as several varieties of _Jasper_;

_arborescent native Copper_; _Jaspery iron ore_; _Arseniate of Iron_,

which until it was discovered in the _Crown lode_ of Botallack, was

unknown in St. Just. It is of a brown colour, and is crystallized

in cubes. _Sulphuret of Bismuth_, imbedded in _Jasper_; beautiful

_specular iron ore_; _hæmatitic Iron_; and the _hydrous oxide of

iron_, in prisms terminated by pyramids, and which was supposed by the

Count de Bournon to contain _Titanium_. The picturesque rocks of this

district may be considered as composed of _Hornblende rock_, which

will be found to alternate with slate. The contorted appearance of the

former in the vicinity of Botallack is very singular, and will admit of

much speculation. The _Crown rocks_, to which the mineralogist must not

neglect to descend, consist of extremely compact _Hornblende rock_, in

which occur numerous veins and beds of different minerals; viz. _veins

of Garnet rock_, with numerous imbedded crystals, being at one part

almost a foot in width; _Magnetic Iron Pyrites_, massive, in beds, near

the engine; its colour is bluish-grey, and it is called by the workmen

_Spelter_, who mistake it probably for _Blende_, which latter mineral

also occurs here in considerable quantities. In a part of the rock,

which is almost inaccessible, there is a vein of _Epidote_, distinctly

crystallized, and about six inches wide. The miners, however descend

the fearful precipice without any difficulty, in order to collect

specimens for the inquisitive visitant. _Axinite_ also occurs in veins,

or perhaps in beds; _Thallite_, _Chlorite_, _Tremolite_, and a black

crystallized _Schorl_, in which the late Rev. William Gregor detected

six per cent. of _Titanium_, are to be found also in this interesting

spot.

CAPE CORNWALL is the next object of interest after Botallack. This

point of land stretches out to the west, at an elevation of two hundred

and thirty feet, and forms the northern boundary of _Whitsand Bay_ (p.

88). It is entirely composed of a slaty rock, traversed by numerous

veins of _Actinolite_. To the geologist this spot will be interesting,

since on the shore beneath, a junction may be observed between the

_Granite_ of the Land's End, and the slate of this promontory.[63]

These formations are separated by a large vein of _metalliferous

quartz_, which forms the _lode_ of the mine in the neighbourhood,

called "_Little Bounds_," and whose engine suspended in the cliff

above, constitutes a very striking feature in the scenery. This vein,

besides _Oxide of Tin_, for which it is worked, contains _Native

Copper_, different _Oxides of Iron_, _Red Jasper_, _Quartz_ of a bright

brownish red colour, and _Scaly red Iron_ _ore_, sometimes investing

Quartz, and occasionally in small masses consisting of red cohering

scales, which are unctuous to the touch.

Mr. Carne states, that in this mine three distinct lodes, distant

from each other, have been worked under the sea; two of them being in

granite, the third in slate. Here also, at two parts of the _lode_,

known by the name of "_Save-all's lode_," probably, as the name

would seem to imply, in consequence of the avarice of the miner, a

communication has been made between the sea and the mine; one of them

is at about high water mark at spring tides; the other is covered by

the sea at every tide, except at very low neaps; great and constant

attention is therefore necessary for the security of this latter

breach. At first the opening was stopped by a piece of wood covered

with turf; but as this defence was not found to be sufficiently secure,

a thick platform caulked like the deck of a ship, was ultimately

placed upon it, and which renders it nearly water proof. The breaking

of the waves is heard in all the levels of the mine, and in the part

directly beneath the pebbly beach, the rolling of the stones in

boisterous weather produces a most terrific effect. In the drift at

the forty fathom level, which is carried a considerable way under the

sea, Mr. Chenhalls, the intelligent agent of the mine, had formerly

observed a successive formation of _Stalactites_; in consequence of

which statement, Dr. John Davy and Mr. Majendie were induced to visit

the spot. It had been closed for two years previously, but before it

was shut up Mr. Chenhalls had carefully removed all the _Stalactites_

which then existed. Upon examination it was observed that a fresh

crop had been produced during the interval just stated; some of which

were eighteen inches in length, and above an inch in diameter. The

_Stalagmites_ directly underneath them were of still larger dimensions;

both however had the same yellowish-brown colour, and were found to

consist of _Peroxide of iron_. Specimens may be seen in the cabinet

at Penzance. Dr. Paris has suggested that they resulted from the

decomposition of _Pyrites_, forming, in the first instance, a soluble

_Sulphate of iron_, but which, by attracting farther oxygen, deposited

its base in the form here discovered.

At a little distance southward of Cape Cornwall, is a high rocky

promontory called CARAGLOSE HEAD, from which the traveller may command

one of the most interesting views in this part of Cornwall. On the

north are Cape Cornwall, and the romantic machinery of _Little_

_Bounds Mine_. Southward and directly under the head, the interesting

creek called PORNANVON COVE, with the engine of _Huel St. Just Tin

Mine_ near the sea shore. Westward, on a clear day, the Scilly Islands

may be distinctly seen. This is a spot seldom visited by strangers,

but with the exception of Botallack, it is certainly one of the most

striking in the district of Saint Just. At _Pornanvon Cove_, a stratum

of sea sand and pebbles may be seen in the cliff, at an elevation of

fifteen feet above high water mark!

Advancing from the coast into the interior of the country towards

Saint Just's _Church-town_, Dr. Berger observed many blocks of _Schorl

rock_[64] scattered on this part of the granitic plain, particularly

amongst the rubbish of some old tin mines, which are here very

numerous, but are now quite deserted.

SAINT JUST CHURCH TOWN. Nothing of any interest is to be seen at

this place, except a very ancient cross, a sketch of which we shall

introduce at the conclusion of the present chapter; and the remains of

an ancient Amphitheatre.

In this, and similar "_Rounds_," as they are provincially called, the

ancient British assembled, in order to witness those athletic sports,

for which the Cornish are still remarkable; indeed, at this very day,

wrestling matches are held in the amphitheatre at Saint Just, during

the holidays of Easter and Whitsuntide.[65]

The Antiquary ought not to quit this parish without visiting the

"_Botallack Circles_;" when examined separately they do not differ

essentially from that at _Bolleit_, or at _Boscawen Un_ before

described (p. 81); but they intersect each other and form a confused

cluster; "but in this seeming confusion," exclaims Dr. Borlase, "I

cannot but think that there was some mystical meaning, or, at least,

distinct allotment to particular uses; some of these might be employed

for the sacrifice, others allotted to prayer, others to the feasting of

the priests, others for the station of those who devoted the victims;

and lastly, that these circles intersected each other in so remarkable

a manner, as we find them in this monument, might be to intimate that

each of these holy rites, though exercised in different circles, were

but so many links of one and the same chain, and that there was a

constant dependance and connection between sacrifice, prayer, holy

feasting, and all the several parts of Druidical worship."

In taking leave of the metalliferous district of Saint Just we have

to observe, that it has been considered by Mr. Carne, and not without

probability, as having constituted the principal portion of what was

formerly known under the name of the _Cassiterides_, and that if it

would redound to the honour, or contribute to the prosperity of Saint

Just, it might be said, "that her Tin was probably a constituent

part of the Shield and Helmet of Achilles,--of the Tabernacle of the

Israelites,--of the Purple of Tyre,--and of the Temple of Solomon."

From Saint Just's _Church-town_, the road conducts us over a wild part

of the peninsula, although highly salubrious, and invigorating from the

fine sea breezes which blow from every side; after a ride over such

bleak and barren hills, the eye experiences a singular repose on our

approach to the cultivated shores of the Mount's Bay.

[Illustration: _Saint Just._]

FOOTNOTES:

[48] Baptistries were continued out of the church until the sixth

century.

[49] The learned Bishop Hall in his work entitled "_The Mystery of

Godliness_," bears ample testimony to the medicinal efficacy of this

water in restoring motion and activity to cripples.

[50] _Cromlech_ in the Cornish language signified a crooked stone.

[51] This ancient monument is faithfully depicted in the frontispiece

of the present work; but we are in candour bound to acknowledge

that, in the introduction of Saint Michael's Mount, the artist has

availed himself of the "_quidlibet audendi_" so universally conceded

to Painters and Poets; in reality, an intervening eminence obstructs

the view of the Mount from this spot, and he has therefore, upon the

present occasion, just taken the liberty to remove this barrier to

our vision. If the Geological tourist condemn this harmless deviation

from truth, we shall recriminate by reminding him that even Geologists

have sometimes appropriated to themselves an indulgence which Horace

extended only to the votaries of the Muses, and have not hesitated to

overlook the existence of a mountain where it stood in the way of a

favourite theory.

[52] Before the beginning of the seventh century we are informed by

Strutt that it was held unlawful to bury the dead in the cities, and

that there were no church-yards. _Anglo-Saxon Æra, vol. 1. p. 69._

[53] There are several monumental inscriptions of the same kind to be

seen in Cornwall, but none so ancient as _Men Skryfa_. In Barlowena

bottom, for instance, as you pass from the church of Gulval to that of

Madron, there is one which is now converted into a foot-bridge across a

brook; if the antiquary examine the letters upon this stone, which he

cannot conveniently do without getting under it, he will discover the

corruptions alluded to in the text, viz. the _I_ in _Filius_ linked to

the _L_.

[54] To the elaborate memoir, by _Mr. Carne_, published in the second

volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall,

and entitled "_On the Mineral Productions, and the Geology of the

Parish of Saint Just_," we would especially direct the attention of the

scientific traveller.

[55] The quantity of Copper procured in this way at Botallack, says Mr.

Carne, is about a ton in a year. This chemical process is now practised

in most of the mines in which the "_Tin-stone_" is mixed with Copper

ore, as in Dolcoath, Cook's Kitchen, Chacewater, and in some parts of

St. Agnes.

[56] The principal sub-marine mines on this part of the coast are

_Levant_; _Tolvaen_; _Huel Cock_; and _Huel Castle_; Copper Mines; and

_Praze_; _Little Bounds_; _Riblose_; _Huel St. Just_; Tin Mines; and

_Botallack_ Tin and Copper Mine.

[57] A miner of the name of _James Wall_, who resides in the village of

_Carnyorth_, has generally a variety of these minerals for sale.

[58] "_Crown Engine_," so named from its vicinity to three rocks called

the "_Three Crowns_."

It was our intention to have presented the reader with an engraving of

this extraordinary scene, and indeed measures had been taken for its

accomplishment, when we were induced to abandon the design on learning

that a lithographic print had been published by a meritorious and

self-taught artist at Penzance, the sale of which we were anxious not

to diminish.

[59] This apparatus is termed "_The Shammel Whim_."

[60] A metalliferous vein is provincially called a _Lode_.

[61] The tin and copper are in a state of _mechanical_ mixture,

although _Dr. Boase_ has lately found amongst the heaps, a specimen of

"_Tin Pyrites_," in which these metals are _chemically_ combined.

[62] The miners always distinguish their mines by a _feminine_

appellation.

[63] See a paper by Dr. John Davy, in the first volume of the

Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, entitled "_On

the Granite Veins of Porth Just_."

[64] This rock is a binary compound of _Quartz_ and _Schorl_, without

any, or scarcely any, admixture of the other constituents of Granite;

and yet when we consider its various relations, it must be regarded as

rather a variety of the latter than a distinct rock. The locality now

mentioned and that singular group of rocks between Truro and Bodmin,

known by the name of _Roach Rock_, are, as far as we know, the only

places in Cornwall where this modification of granite is found _in

mass_. In the form of veins its occurrence is not unusual, especially

at the junction of granite and slate, where it would often seem to

exist as an intermediate rock.

[65] The Cornish have ever been celebrated for their skill in the art

of wrestling; hence the expression "_To give one a Cornish Hug_," which

is a dexterous lock in that art peculiar to them. It must, however, be

admitted, whether as a matter of triumph or humiliation, we will not

declare, that the Cornish have greatly declined in their art, so as

to be now inferior even to the Devonians, and to the inhabitants of

many other districts in their prowess. This degeneracy might perhaps

be attributed to the change which has taken place during the lapse of

time, in the mode of working for Tin; formerly it was all procured by

_Streaming_, an occupation as healthy and invigorating, as the present

one of subterranean mining is debilitating. We apprehend, however, that

a moral cause of still greater force has contributed to the change--the

diffusion of _Methodism_; which has unquestionably proved a powerful

instrument in the amelioration of the habits and disposition of the

Cornish miner.

EXCURSION IV.

TO SAINT IVES, HAYLE, HUEL ALFRED, &c.

Passing through the little village of Chyandour, we ascend by a

shady road through that of Gulval, to _Kenegie_,[66] the seat of

the family of John Arundel Harris Arundel, Esq. This spot commands

a very interesting view of the Mount's Bay, the beauty of which is

greatly heightened by the diversified and picturesque foreground. On a

neighbouring hill is _Rosmorran_, the retired cottage ornée of George

John, Esq. of Penzance; we scarcely know a situation where the skill

of the landscape gardener could be exerted with greater advantage or

effect.

Pursuing the road, and passing the gate of Kenegie, we ascend the

great granite range which extends from Dartmoor to the Land's End, and

which appears, in this part of the country, to be broken into a number

of detached groups. Upon the summit of one of these hills stands a

castellated building which, although of modern construction, occupies

the site of an ancient hill castle, called "_Castle an Dinas_;" it

was erected by John Rogers, Esq., as a picturesque object from his

occasional residence at _Treassowe_.

On descending the northern side of the granite ridge, a curious

atmospheric phenomenon is frequently observable,--the clear and

cloudless sky becoming suddenly dense and hazy; the change is evidently

occasioned by the condensation of the vapours contained in the warm

and rarefied air of the Mount's Bay, by the colder one which blows

from the Bristol channel. Amidst wild and rugged hills the road

winds to Saint Ives, in the course of which, the geologist will

have many opportunities of furnishing his portfolio with sketches,

in illustration of the changes which time and weather produce on

Granite; huge blocks of this stone lie scattered on all sides, while

stupendous masses are seen on the hills above in different stages of

decomposition, and which from their threatening attitude, would appear

as if in preparation to join their former companions in the plains

below.

SAINT IVES. This populous sea port and borough stands on the shores

of the Bristol Channel, in a very fine bay bounded by bold rocks of

_Greenstone_ and _Slate_. The latter of these rocks is in many places

undergoing rapid decomposition, in consequence of which large masses

of the Hornblende rock have fallen in various directions, and given

a singular character of picturesque rudeness to the scene: this is

remarkably striking in the group of rocks which constitute Godrevy

Island.

Saint Ives is a populous sea port, of very considerable antiquity,

deriving its name from that of _Iia_, a religious woman, who came

hither from Ireland in about the year 460. The Corporation, which

obtained its powers from a charter granted by Charles the First,

consists of a mayor, recorder, town-clerk, twelve capital burgesses,

and twenty-four inferior burgesses. The Borough returns two members to

Parliament, a privilege which was conferred in the fifth year of Queen

Mary; and the right of election was vested in all the householders in

the parish paying scot and lot. In the year 1816, the magistrates, and

trustees of the Pier and Port of Saint Ives resolved to extend the

former, and to construct a breakwater, in order to shelter it. The

undertaking has been commenced, but it is at present far from being

completed.

Saint Ives is the birth place of the _Reverend Jonathan Toup_, Rector

of Saint Martin's near Looe, the learned annotator of _Suidas_, and

editor of _Longinus_. His father was formerly the lecturer of this town.

On no part of the Cornish coast is the Pilchard fishery carried on with

greater activity or success; and at the time of large draughts, it is

usual for all the inhabitants to contribute their assistance; shops and

dwelling-houses are frequently deserted on such occasions, and even the

church has been abandoned, when large shoals have made their appearance

on the Sabbath! By a certain signal given by a person stationed on

the heights, the approach of a shoal is generally announced to the

town; the effect is most singular. Trumpets are immediately heard in

different parts, and the inhabitants rushing from their houses, and

quitting their ordinary occupations, are to be seen running in all

directions, and vociferating the word "_Hever--Hever--Hever_."--What

the term signifies, or whence it was derived, no one can conjecture,

but its sound is no less animating to the ears of a Saint Ives-man,

than is the cry of "_To Arms_," to the Son of Mars; and the tumult

which it excites is more like that of a besieged city, than the

peaceable and joyful bustle of an industrious fishing town.

As we have not hitherto described the manner in which the Pilchard

Fishery is conducted, perhaps the present will be an appropriate

opportunity.

The Pilchard, in size and form, very much resembles the common

Herring,[67] and is actually confounded with it by Linnæus, under

the name of "_Clupoea Harengus_;" upon close inspection, however,

an essential difference may be readily discovered. The Pilchard is

less compressed, as well as smaller; there is besides a very simple,

and common test of distinction, depending upon the dorsal fin of the

Pilchard being placed exactly in the centre of gravity, if therefore

it be taken up by this fin, it will preserve an equilibrium; while the

body of the Herring, when so tried, will dip towards the head. Mr.

Pennant likewise observes that the scales of the latter easily drop

off, whereas those of the Pilchard adhere very closely.

It has been commonly stated that these fish migrate from the North sea

in immense shoals, during the summer months, and reach the Cornish

coast about the middle of July, where they remain until the latter

end of September, when they again depart to the arctic regions. This

statement, however, cannot be correct, as the fish are never seen off

the coasts of Scotland, the northern shores of Ireland, the Isle of

Man, nor, in fact, off any coast north of Cornwall. It would therefore

seem more probable, that they come from some part of the Western

ocean, and return thither at the end of the season. Within the last

ten years a considerable alteration in their usual course has taken

place, much to the disappointment of the Cornish Fishermen; they have

kept at a greater distance from the shores; whether this circumstance

has arisen from their food being farther than usual out at sea, or from

any alteration in the currents, it is impossible to ascertain. In the

present year, however, they seem to have returned to Saint Ives; an

immense quantity, calculated at three thousand hogsheads, having been

taken at one "_catch_," by two _Seines_ in this bay. The other parts of

the coast have been visited only by very small shoals.

The preparations for this fishery are generally commenced about the

end of July,[68] as the period at which the Pilchards are expected to

pay their annual visit. As they usually make their appearance here

in the evening, the boats engaged in the adventure seldom go to sea

before three or four o'clock in the afternoon, and as rarely remain

longer than ten. On some occasions, however, they go out again very

early in the morning, and have sometimes succeeded in taking fish at

sun rise. The fishermen, arranged in boats which are scattered at a

little distance from each other, are directed to the shoals by persons

who are stationed on the cliffs, or who sometimes follow in boats.

These persons who are called "_Huers_," probably from the _hue and

cry_ which they raise, discover them by the peculiar red tint[69]

which the water assumes, and from other indications with which they

are well acquainted.[70] The spot where the nets should be cast, or

"_shot_" having been determined from the signals of the "_Huer_," the

boat containing the great net or "_Stop Seine_" as it is called, and

which is frequently as much as 300 fathoms in length, and 10 in depth,

is gradually cast from the boat into the sea by two men, as the vessel

is gently rowed round the shoal by others of the crew; a service which

is performed with such dexterity that in less than four minutes the

whole of this enormous net is _shot_, and the fish enclosed. Upon

this occasion it is always the first care of the _Seiner_ to secure

that part to which the fish were swimming; and then so to carry the

net around them, that they shall be hemmed in on every side. The net

immediately spreads itself, the corks on one edge rendering it buoyant,

and the leaden weights on the other causing it to sink to the bottom;

for if the depth of the water should exceed that of the _Seine_, it is

evident that there would be little probability of securing any fish,

however large the shoal might be. As the circle in which the Seine is

shot, is generally larger than the net can compass, its two extremities

are at a distance from each other when the whole is in the water. Ropes

are therefore carried out from each of these ends, by which they are

_warped_ together by the men on board the two large boats, so as to

bring them into contact. When this is effected, the two extremities,

if the shoal be large, are lifted from the bottom, and expeditiously

tacked together. During this last operation every method is adopted

to agitate the water, and drive back the body of fish from this only

aperture through which they can escape. This having been accomplished,

the fish remain within the enclosure formed by the encircling net,

which extends from the surface to the bottom of the sea. It only

now remains to secure the Seine in its position, for which purpose

_grapnels_, or small anchors, are carried out at some distance on every

side, the ropes from which are fastened to the rope at the upper end

of the net; these _grapnels_ will of course retain the Seine in its

circular position, and preserve it against the influence of the tides,

and the changes of the weather. Where, however, the shore is sandy and

shelving, as in Saint Ives' Bay, the _Seine_ is at once drawn into

shallow water by a number of men, who are called "_Blowsers_."

The quantity of fish which is thus secured will depend of course on

many contingent circumstances, such for instance, as the strength of

the tides, the nature of the coast, and the dexterity of the fishermen,

&c. A Seine has sometimes enclosed as many as fifteen hundred, or two

thousand hogsheads. The next operation is to remove the fish from the

Seine, and to convey them in boats to the shore. This is performed by

another smaller net, termed a "_Tuck net_," and the process is called

"_Tucking_," and is a sight which the stranger should not, on any

account, neglect to witness. This busy scene always takes place at

low water, and when it happens on one of those calm evenings which so

frequently occur in the summer season, it is impossible to imagine a

more exquisite scene. The moon shedding her lustre on the sea displays

its surface covered with vessels, sailing or rowing in all directions

to the Seine, whilst her beams by striking upon the dripping fish

as they are poured, by baskets, from the _tuck net_ into boats,[71]

produce an appearance which resembles a stream of liquid silver.

There is another mode of catching Pilchards of "_Driving Nets_,"[72]

which are drawn after their respective boats, fastened only at one end;

in the meshes of which the fish are arrested as they attempt to pass.

This species of fishery is always carried on at a considerable distance

from the shore, lest, by approaching too near the land they should

disperse the shoals which the _Seiner_ is waiting to enclose. The

quantity thus taken is very small; but the fish are remarkably fine,

and the expense of the adventure is comparatively trifling.

The fish, having been brought to the fish cellars, undergo the process

of being "_cured_;" which is performed by laying them up in broad

piles, "_in bulk_," as it is called, and salting them as they are piled

up, with bay salt. In this situation they generally remain for forty

days, although the time allowed for their lying _in bulk_ is often

regulated by the interests of the merchant, who, it may be supposed,

is ever ready to avail himself of any favourable turn in the foreign

markets. The period directed by Government is that of thirty-three

days. During this process a great quantity of oil, blood, and dirty

pickle, drains from the fish; and which, from the inclination of the

floor, immediately find their way into a receptacle placed for their

reception.[73] The Pilchards, when taken from the bulk, are carried to

large troughs, in which they are washed, and completely cleansed from

the salt, filth, and coagulated oil which they had acquired.[74] They

are then packed into hogsheads, and pressed by a strong lever, for the

purpose of squeezing out the oil, which issues through a hole at the

bottom of the cask; the pressing continues for a week, and formerly ten

gallons of oil were procured from every hogshead, but at this time, not

more than four can be obtained; such a change in the fatness of the

fish is not easily to be explained. The hogsheads are now _headed up_,

and exported to the different ports of the Mediterranean, principally

to the Italian ports; and upon every hogshead so exported, Government

allows a bounty of 8s 6d. Upwards of 30,000 hogsheads are annually

consumed in England; and above 100,000 have been exported in one year.

The quantity of salt necessary to cure a hogshead of fish is estimated

at about 300 lbs. and the expense of the whole for that quantity,

including the cask, salt, labour, &c. is from £1:3s to £1:6s; and it

has been calculated that the bounty, together with the value of the oil

(from £20 to £28 per ton), will in general reimburse the whole expense.

This fishery is in every respect of the highest importance to the

county of Cornwall, affording employment to at least twelve thousand

persons,[75] whilst the capital engaged cannot be fairly estimated at

less than three hundred and fifty, or four hundred thousand pounds.

The broken and refuse fish are sold at about 10d per bushel, for

manure, and are used throughout the county with excellent effects,

especially for raising all green crops; they are usually mixed with

sand, or soil, and sometimes with sea weed, to prevent them from

raising too luxuriant a crop, arising from a too rapid decomposition;

thus employed their effects are very permanent, and there is a popular

belief that a single pilchard will fertilize a foot square of land for

several years; and certain it is, that after the apparent exhaustion

of this manure, its powers may be again excited by ploughing in a

small proportion of _quick lime_, which will produce a still further

decomposition of the animal matter, and develope a fresh succession

of those elements which are essential to the growth of vegetable

substances.

The Herring fishery is also carried on to a great extent at Saint

Ives; this fish appears after the pilchard has quitted the shores,

and is much smaller than that which is caught on the northern coasts

of Britain; which corroborates the general opinion, that the farther

it migrates to the south, the more it decreases in size. It is also

worthy of remark that, notwithstanding the great abundance of this

fish in the Bristol Channel, it very seldom passes the Land's End, and

is consequently rarely caught in the Mount's Bay, or on the southern

shores of Cornwall.

But let us return from this digression, and proceed with our

excursion.--

Quitting Saint Ives by the eastern road, we are conducted along an

elevated cliff, which affords a complete command of every object in

the bay; in our route we pass _Tregenna Castle_, the seat of Samuel

Stephens, Esq. and on the summit of a lofty hill, about a mile from

this mansion, stands a pyramid, which immediately attracts the notice

of the traveller, as well on account of the singular wildness of its

situation, as the complete absence of every shrub, or rural ornament,

with which such objects are usually associated. It was erected by the

late eccentric John Knill, Esq., a bencher of Gray's Inn, and some

time collector of the Port of Saint Ives, it having been intended as

a Mausoleum for the reception of his remains, although he afterwards

revoked this intention, and ordered his body to be given to an

anatomist in London, for dissection. On one side of this pyramid is

inscribed, "_Johannes Knill_," on another, "_Resurgam_," and on a

third, "_I know that my Redeemer liveth_." He directed in his will,

that at the end of every five years, a Matron and ten girls, dressed in

white, should walk in procession, with music, from the market house at

Saint Ives, to this pyramid, around which they should dance, singing

the hundredth Psalm!

----"Pueri circum innuptæque puellæ

Sacra canunt."

For the purpose of keeping up this custom, he bequeathed some freehold

lands, which are vested in the officiating minister, the mayor, and the

collector of the port of Saint Ives, who are allowed Ten Pounds for a

dinner. The first celebration of these _Quinquennial rites_ excited,

as may easily be supposed, very considerable interest throughout the

western parts of the county.

"No tongue was mute, nor foot was still,

But _One and All_[76] were on the hill,

In chorus round the tomb of Knill."

The report which was drawn up at the time by an eye witness of these

festivities, exhibits such an admirable specimen of the _mock Heroic_,

that we feel assured that the tourist will thank us for having given

insertion to it in the Appendix.

Pursuing the road along the cliff we pass _Lelant_ church, and arrive

at the river _Hayle_, which takes its rise near Crowan, and falls into

Saint Ives Bay; although it arrives at the level of the sea three miles

before it reaches the northern coast, and winds its way through an area

of sand, nearly half a mile wide, and more than two miles long; this

sand, at high water, is generally submerged, so that the traveller who

wishes to cross is obliged to take a circuitous route over the bridge

at _Saint Erth_; but upon the ebbing of the tide, it soon becomes

fordable, and may be passed over even by foot passengers. It is a

curious circumstance that at twelve o'clock at noon, and at midnight,

it is _always_ fordable; this apparent paradox is solved by knowing,

that at _Spring tides_ it is always low water at these hours, and that

the _Neap tides_ never rise sufficiently high to impede the passage.

The Port of Hayle is situated on the eastern side of the river, where

a great trade is carried on with Wales for timber, coals,[77] iron,

and limestone; and with Bristol, for earthen-ware, groceries, &c. It

is also one of the principal places of export for the copper ore of

the western mines. In the former edition of this work we described

the processes by which the _smelting_ and _refining_ of Copper were

conducted at this place, but as it was acknowledged to be much cheaper

to carry the ore to the coal, than to bring the coal to the ore, the

proprieters found themselves compelled to abandon the speculation. The

buildings in the neighbourhood, however, still continue as memorials

of the former existence of such works, having been constructed with

square masses of the _scoria_,[78] which had been cast into moulds for

such purposes, as it issued from the furnace. In the museum of the

Geological Society at Penzance the stranger may see an interesting

model of this _Copper House_, and of the furnaces employed in the

reduction of the ore.

There are now at Hayle two very extensive Iron Founderies, in which

are cast the largest engines which have been hitherto erected on mines.

They are wrought partly by water, and partly by Steam Engines. Near the

Copper House the traveller will not fail to notice the fine back-water

dam, which was constructed about thirty years since, for the scouring

out of the harbour. The effect has been a considerable reduction of the

sand which forms its bottom, so that ships of much greater burden may

now enter it. The plan and execution of this work, which was undertaken

at the expense of the then existing Hayle Copper Company, reflect

great credit on the late _John Edwards, Esq._, who first conceived

its practicability and advantage, and under whose direction it was

completed. A phenomenon occurred at these works some years ago which

afforded a curious illustration of the secret and destroying agency

of Galvanic electricity. The flood gates were found to undergo a very

rapid decay, which was perfectly inexplicable, until the engineer

ascertained that it depended entirely upon the contact of iron and

copper bolts and braces, which had been introduced into the different

parts of the frame work.