PART II.

_An Account of the First celebration of the Knillian Games at Saint

Ives_ _p._ 260

_A Cornish Dialogue_ 267

_Carn Breh--An Ode hitherto unpublished, by Dr. Walcot_ 271

A GUIDE

TO THE

MOUNT'S BAY

AND

THE LAND's END.

INTRODUCTION.

_Of the Mount's Bay, and the Land's End District._

At the most western extremity, and in the lowest latitude of Great

Britain, is situated this delightful and justly celebrated Bay. It is

bounded by an irregularly curved outline of many miles in extent, the

extreme points of which constitute the well known promontory of the

"_Lizard_," and the singular headland, "_Tol-Pedn-Penwith_," near the

"_Land's End_."

From the Lizard, the shores pass northward and westward, and gradually

losing, as they proceed, their harsh and untamed features, swell into

sloping sweeps of richly cultivated land, and into hills glowing with

the freshest verdure. As the coast advances, and at the same time

spreads itself southward, it unites to its luxuriant richness a bolder

character, and, rising like a vast amphitheatre, it opposes a barrier

to western storms, while it presents its undulating bosom to the sun,

and collecting his rays, pours them again with multiplied effect, upon

every part of the surrounding country. The shores now pass westward,

and extend to the _Land's End_, in their approach to which they become

more rocky and precipitous, and occasionally exhibit some of the finest

cliff scenery in the island, displaying by splendid natural sections

the exact structure and relations of the rocks of which the country is

composed.

The western shores are sprinkled with picturesque villages, churches,

cottages, and villas; and near the eastern margin of the bay, a pile

of rocks, supporting a venerable chapel on its summit, starts abruptly

from the waves, and presents an appearance of a most singular and

beautiful description--this is _Saint Michael's Mount_, an eminence

equally celebrated in the works of the poet, the naturalist, the

antiquary, and the historian.

If we pursue the coast, and, turning round the western extremity of

our island, trace its outline as it proceeds northerly, and then

easterly to the _Bay of St. Ives_, a very different country presents

itself; instead of the undulating curves, and luxuriant herbage of

the southern shores, the land is generally high,--the vallies short,

narrow, and quick of descent, and the whole landscape affords a scene

of incomparable cheerlessness; on the summit of almost every hill the

granite is to be seen protruding its rugged forms in the most fantastic

shapes, while the neighbouring ground is frequently covered for some

distance with its disjointed and gigantic fragments, tumbled together

in magnificent confusion; scarcely a shrub is seen to diversify the

waste, and the traveller who undertakes to explore the more desolate

parts of the district, will feel as if he were walking over the ruins

of the globe, and were the only being who had survived the general

wreck; and yet Ulysses was not more attached to his Ithaca, than is the

Cornish peasant to his wild and cheerless dwelling.

"Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,

"And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms."

Nor let the intelligent tourist despair of amusement, for he will find

much to interest, much to delight him. There is not perhaps a district

in Great Britain which presents greater attractions to the mineralogist

or geologist; and there is certainly not one which, in so small a

compass, has produced so many species of earthy and metallic minerals,

or which displays so many geological varieties. At the same time the

antiquarian may here occupy himself with the examination of the rude

relics of antiquity, which lie scattered on all sides--nothing is more

pleasing than that sacred enthusiasm which is kindled in the mind by

the contemplation of the faded monuments of past ages, and surely no

spot was ever more congenial to such sensations. But to return from the

digression.

THE CLIMATE of Mount's Bay is the circumstance which has principally

contributed to its celebrity, and is that which renders its shores

so beneficial to invalids. Its seasons have been aptly compared

to the neap tides, which neither ebb nor flow with energy; for,

notwithstanding its southern latitude, the summer is never sultry,

while the rigour of winter is so ameliorated, that thick ice[1] is

rarely seen; frost, if it occurs, is but of a few hours duration; and

the snow storms which, coming from the north and east, bury the fields

of every other part of England, are generally exhausted before they

reach this favoured spot, or their last sprinkling is dissolved by the

warm breezes which play around its shores.

The records lately collated and published by Dr. Forbes, from the

meteorological journals of Messrs. Giddy, eminent surgeons at Penzance,

afford abundant proof that this neighbourhood enjoys a mean summer

temperature _under_, and a mean winter temperature greatly _above_,

the mean of places similarly situated as to latitude, but differing in

the latter being placed at a distance from the sea; for the mass of

water held in the vast basin of the ocean preserves a far more even

temperature than the atmosphere, and is constantly at work to maintain

some degree of equilibrium in the warmth of the air; so that in the

summer it carries off a portion of the caloric from it, while in the

winter it restores a part of that which it contains.[2]

The same registers have, moreover, recorded a fact with respect to

the Penzance climate which renders it still more acceptable to the

invalid,--the comparatively small annual, monthly, and daily range

of its temperature. Nor are the indications of the thermometer

the only test upon which we need rely,--the productions of nature

will furnish striking elucidations, and amply confirm the justness

of our meteorological observations. From the vegetable kingdom we

derive conclusive evidence of the mildness of our winter, since all

green-house plants may be preserved with far less care and attendance

than in any other part of England; myrtles[3] and geraniums, even

of the tenderest kind, and many other exotics, are here constantly

exposed during the winter, and yet they flower most luxuriantly in the

summer. The _Hydrangea_ attains an immense size in our shrubberies,

as does also the _Verbena Triphylla_. The great American aloe (_Agave

Americana_,) has flowered in the open air at Mousehole, at Tehidy park,

and in the Scilly islands. To these we may add a long list[4] of tender

exotics, all of which are flourishing in the neighbourhood of Penzance,

and it has been justly remarked that were ornamental horticulture to

become an object of attention in this neighbourhood, as it is in many

other parts of England, this list might be very considerably extended.

Amongst the rare _indigenous_ plants of this district, the _Sibthorpia

Europæa_ may be particularised as affording a remarkable proof of the

mildness of our winter. This elegant little plant when transplanted

into the midland counties is killed even in the most sheltered gardens.

Nor must we pass over unnoticed the more substantial proofs of the

same fact, as furnished by our winter markets, for at a season when

pot-herbs of all kinds are destroyed by frost in the eastern counties,

our tables are regularly supplied in abundance;[5] and so little is the

progress of vegetation checked during the months of winter, that the

meadows retain their verdure, and afford even a considerable supply of

grass to the cattle.

Nor is the animal kingdom deficient in proofs of the congenial

mildness of western Cornwall. We are indebted to the _Rev. W. T. Bree_,

of Allesley, Warwickshire, for the following remarks, which were

communicated by him to Dr. Forbes of Penzance, and published by that

gentleman in his Observations on the Climate of this neighbourhood.

"One of the most remarkable instances of the mildness of your climate

is the unusually early appearance of frog's spawn: this I observed

at Gulval on the 8th of January. According to White's Naturalist's

Calendar (which was made from observations taken in Hampshire, a warm

and early county,) the earliest and latest appearances there specified,

are February 28th, and March 22d. Taking therefore the second week

in March as the average for its appearance, you should seem, in this

instance, to be full two months earlier than Hampshire."

"In this neighbourhood (near Coventry) I rarely see any of our species

of Swallow, except perhaps an occasional straggler, before the second

week in April, but in the year 1818 I was not a little gratified at

observing upwards of a score of Sand Martins, (_Hirundo Riparia_,)

sporting over the marsh between Gulval and Marazion, on March 31st. The

wind at that time was N. W. and the thermometer at 50° in the shade at

noon. The Chaffinch (_Fringilla Coelebs_,) I heard, in Cornwall, begin

to chirp his spring note the last day of December. With us he is seldom

heard until the beginning of February. The Viper, (_Coluber Berus_) a

great lover of warmth and moisture, occurs more frequently in Cornwall

than in the midland counties."

We have already stated that our summers are as remarkable for

coolness, as our winters are desirable for mildness. This circumstance

necessarily renders our fruit inferior in flavour to that which is

produced in the inland counties; indeed the grape very rarely ripens in

the open air, and the apricot tree seldom affords any fruit, except in

a few favoured spots. The tree of the greengage plum is nearly equally

unproductive. The walnut and the common hazel-nut very seldom bear

fruit. Apples for the table, however, are plentiful and good; and our

strawberries may be considered as possessing a decided superiority.

Why then, it may be asked, should not this climate be as eligible to

invalids as that which they are generally sent across the Channel

to enjoy? In reply we will venture to assert, and without the least

fear of being contradicted by those, whose experience renders them

competent judges, that it is not only equally beneficial, but far more

eligible, unless, indeed, the patient can possess himself of the

cap of Fortunatus, to remove the difficulties and discomfiture of a

continental journey. But since the present volume is, in some measure,

written for the information and guidance of those who are seeking a

winter's residence, in pursuit of health, the author has been induced

to subjoin a short essay, in the appendix, for the purpose of examining

the comparative pretensions of the several places to the reputation for

superior mildness and salubrity, which they have acquired.

From the peninsular situation of Cornwall, and its proximity to the

Atlantic ocean, over which the wind blows, at least, three-fourths of

the year, the weather is certainly very subject to rain, and it is

found that when other parts of England suffer from drought, Cornwall

has rarely any reason to complain; this peculiarity seems highly

congenial to the inhabitants, as well as to the soil; a Cornishman

never enjoys better health and spirits than in wet seasons, and there

is a popular adage, that "_the land will bear a shower every day, and

two upon a sunday_;" this, like most of our popular sayings, although

it requires to be understood with some grains of allowance, is founded

on observation and experience. The philosophical explanation of the

fact is obvious; the shallowness of the soil, and the large proportion

of siliceous matter which enters into its composition, together with

the nature of its rocky substratum, necessarily render a constant

supply of moisture indispensable to its fertility. And we here cannot

but admire the intelligence displayed by Nature in connecting the wants

and necessities of the different parts of Creation with the power and

means of supplying them; thus in a primitive country, like Cornwall,

where the soil is constantly greedy of moisture, we perceive that

the rocks, elevated above the surface, solicit a tribute from every

passing cloud; while in alluvial and flat districts, the soil of which

is rich, deep, and retentive of water, the clouds float undisturbed

over the plains, and the country very commonly enjoys that long and

uninterrupted series of dry weather which is so congenial and essential

to its productions.

It deserves, however, to be noticed, that the rains of Cornwall are, in

general, rather frequent than heavy.

"Not such as wintry storms on mortals shed

Oppressing life, but lovely, gentle, kind,

And full of every hope, and every joy,

The wish of Nature."----

It has been satisfactorily ascertained, by means of the rain guage,

that the actual quantity of rain that falls is rather under the mean

of the whole of England; and Dr. Borlase observes that "we have very

seldom a day so thoroughly wet, but that there is some intermission,

nor so cloudy, but that the sun will find a time to shine." This

circumstance may, perhaps, in part depend upon the narrow, ridgelike

form of the peninsula, over which the winds make a quick, because they

have a short passage, and therefore do not suffer the clouds to hang

long in one place, as they frequently do in other situations; we are,

besides, much indebted to Ireland for this moderation of the elements;

she may be truly denominated the _Umbrella_ of Cornwall, for were not

the vast body of clouds, which the winds bring from the Atlantic,

attracted and broken by her hills, we should most probably be deluged

with more constant and excessive rain.

Notwithstanding the supposed moisture of the Mount's Bay, the

air is not less fit for respiration, nor less beneficial to the

valetudinarian, than that of drier situations. The porous nature of

the shelfy substratum soon disposes of any excess of water; so that,

after a short cessation of rain, the invalid may safely venture abroad

to enjoy the delightful walks which surround the bay; at the same

time, the numerous promontories which distinguish this coast, promote

a constant circulation of breezes around their extremities, so that

mists seldom linger, and we never experience those sultry calms, or

suffocating fogs, which not unfrequently infest other parts of our

island.

As Cornwall is directly exposed to the expanse of the Atlantic ocean,

lying south-west of it, we cannot be surprised that the winds, which

blow so generally from that quarter, should occasionally produce

very violent storms. Their approach is frequently predicted by

the experienced fisherman, from the agitation of the water along

shore, a phenomenon which is called a "_ground swell_;" and which is

probably occasioned by a storm in the Atlantic, with the wind west;

in which case, as the storm proceeds eastward, the waves raised by

it will outgo the wind, and reach the eastern coast long before it.

A tremendous instance of this kind occurred, during the residence

of the author of these pages, on the night of Sunday, January 19th,

1817. The storm assumed the character of a hurricane, and acting in

conjunction with a spring tide, impelled the waves with such fury,

that they actually broke over the mast heads of the vessels which

were lying within Penzance harbour, and bore down every thing before

them; two of the four pillars recently erected for the reception of

a light were thrown down, and several of the foundation stones of the

pier removed. The windows of the bath-house were demolished, and the

whole of its furniture washed into the sea. The green between Penzance

and Newlyn was torn up, and several boats, lying on the strand were

actually carried into the neighbouring meadows. The towns of Newlyn and

Mousehole suffered corresponding damage, and several of their houses

were washed away. The road between Marazion and St. Michael's Mount

was torn from its lowest foundation, and stones of more than a ton

in weight, though clamped together with massy iron, were severed and

removed from their situation. The turnpike road between Penzance and

Marazion was, in many places, buried with sand; and in others, broken

up by the violence of the waves, and covered by the sea to the depth of

from three to five feet. Had the violence of the storm lasted but a few

hours longer, who will venture to say that the two channels would not

have been united by the inundation of the low land which constitutes

the isthmus, and the district of the Land's end been converted into an

island!

The sea is encroaching upon every part of the Cornish coast. In the

memory of many persons still living, the cricketers were unable

to throw a ball across the "_Western Green_," between Penzance and

Newlyn,[6] which is now not many feet in breadth, and the grandfather

of the present vicar of Madron is known to have received tithes from

the land under the cliff of Penzance. On the northern coast we have

striking instances of the sea having made similar inroads. This

however is the natural result of the slow and silent depredation of

the water upon the land; but at a very remote period we are assured by

tradition, that a considerable part of the present bay, especially that

comprehended within a line drawn from near Cuddan point on the east

side, to Mousehole on the west, was land covered with wood, but which,

by an awful convulsion and irruption of the sea, was suddenly swept

away. "If we trace the north-west shore of the bay, from the Mount

westward to Newlyn, the ebb tide leaves a large space uncovered; the

sea sand is from one to two or three feet deep; and under this stratum

of sand is found a black vegetable mould, full of woodland detritus,

such as the branches, leaves, and nuts of coppice wood, together with

the roots and trunks of forest trees of large growth. All these are

manifestly indigenous; and, from the freshness and preservation of

some of the remains, the inundation of sand, as well as water, must

have been sudden and simultaneous; and the circumstance of ripe nuts

and leaves remaining together would seem to shew that the irruption

happened in the autumn, or in the beginning of winter. This vegetable

substratum has been traced seaward as far as the ebb would permit,

and has been found continuous and of like nature. Another proof of

these shores having been suddenly visited by a tremendous catastrophe,

has been afforded by the nature of the sand banks constituting the

"_Eastern_," and "_Western Greens_," and which will be found to be the

detritus of disintegrated granite; whereas the natural sand, which

forms the bed of the sea, is altogether unlike it, being much more

comminuted, different in colour, and evidently the result of pulverised

clay-slate:"[7] but when did this mighty catastrophe occur, and what

were its causes? These are questions which are not readily answered;

the event is so buried in the depths of antiquity, that nothing certain

or satisfactory can be collected concerning it; although it would

appear from the concurrent testimony of Florence of Worcester,[8] and

the Saxon Chronicles, that a remarkable invasion of the ocean occurred

in November 1099. With respect to the causes of the phenomenon we

are equally uninformed; let the geologist examine the appearance of

the coast with attention, and then decide with what probability De

Luc attributed the catastrophe to a subsidence of the land. It must

not, however, be concealed that many geologists have questioned the

probability of the occurrence altogether, and argue from the appearance

of the coast, "whose rocks beat back the envious siege of watery

Neptune," that no very important change in the hydrographical outline

of the Cornish peninsula can have taken place, during the present

constitution of the earth's surface. If Saint Michael's Mount be in

reality the "_Ictis_" of Diodorus Siculus, we have certainly a decisive

proof that no material change has taken place for the space of eighteen

centuries at least; for the Historian describes the access to this

island precisely such as it is at the present period--practicable only

at low water for wheel carriages.

Nor is the corroding operation of the other elements upon the hills

of Cornwall less evident and striking; no where are the vestiges of

degradation more remarkable; granitic countries usually present a

bold and varied outline, whereas the aspect of Cornwall, with some

few exceptions, is comparatively tame, and even flat. "_I went into

Cornwall_," said a geologist of well known celebrity, "_to see an

example of a primitive country; but, instead of an example, I found

an exception_." The same observation would apply to the agricultural

character of the county, for its fertility is much greater than that

which usually occurs in a country composed of primitive rocks.

All that peninsular portion of Cornwall which is situated to the

westward of a line drawn from the estuary of Hayle on the north, to

Cuddan point on the south, has been distinguished by the appellation of

the _Land's End District_. It is about thirteen miles long from east to

west, and five or six miles broad from north to south, and contains,

by superficial admeasurement about 54,000 statute acres. It has been

remarked that the small extent of this district, and its peninsular

character, preclude the existence of rivers of any magnitude; its

varied and uneven surface, however, gives it a great profusion of small

streams and rivulets, which add greatly to its value. We shall take

occasion to introduce some remarks on its agriculture, in our excursion

to the Land's End.

[Illustration: _Penzance._]

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Skaiting, as an amusement, is entirely unknown among the young

men of Penzance. The marsh between this place and Marazion, which is

generally overflowed in the winter season, and which offers, when

frozen, a very fair field for the skaiter, has not been more than four

times during the last thirty years sufficiently solidified to admit of

that diversion, viz. in the years 1788, 1794, 1814, and 1819.

[2] It is this fact that permits the cultivation of many species of

plants in the open ground about London, which in the vicinity of Paris

will not live without a green-house.

[3] These plants thrive in the open air, and commonly attain a height

of ten or twelve feet; they may be seen trained on the front of some of

the houses in Penzance to double that height. A sufficient quantity of

cuttings was obtained from a tree of this description, covering one of

the houses, in the course of six weeks, to supply the oven with fuel

for three months!

[4] The following catalogue was drawn up by the _Rev. T. Bree_, of

Allesley, Warwickshire, _viz._

Amaryllis Vittata.

Arum Colocasia.

Azalea Indica.

Buddloea Globosa.

Bocconia Cordata.

Coronilla Glauca, &c.

Calla Æthiopica.

Cistus Salvifolius.

Chrysanthemum Indicum.

Camellia Japonica.

Cyclamen Persicum.

Canna Indica.

Cheiranthus Tristis.

Dahlia (many varieties.)

Daphne Indica.

Eucomis Striata.

Fuchsia Coccinea.

Geranium (several species of the African G.)

Hypericum Coris.

---- Crispum.

---- Balearicum.

Hydrangea Decolor.

Haustonia Coccinea.

Hemerocallis Alba.

Lavandula Viridis.

Lobelia Fulgens.

Myrtus Communis.

Mesembryanthemum Deltoideum.

Melianthus Major.

Mimulus Glutinosus.

Magnolia Tripetala.

Metrosideros Lanceolata.

Olea Fragrans.

Pittosporum Undulatum.

Phylica Ericoides.

Protoea Argentea.

Punica Nana.

Solanum Pseudo-Capsicum.

Teucrium Frutescens.

---- Marum.

Verbena Triphylla.

Westringia Rosmarinacea.

[5] _Cabbages_ are ready for the table as early as February; _Turnips_

before the end of March; _Broccoli_, against Christmas; _Green Peas_

are generally ready by the middle of May. But the most remarkable

exception, perhaps, to the ordinary routine of the culinary calendar

is to be found in the growth of the potatoe. It is customary for the

gardeners in the vicinity of Penzance to raise two crops in one year.

The first being planted in November is gathered in April, May, and

June; the second crop is planted immediately on taking up the first,

and as late as to the middle of July. The first or spring crop has,

in general, no other defence from the cold of winter than the stable

dung used as manure, and it is rarely injured by the frost! Such is the

ordinary practice of the market-gardener; but Mr. Bolitho of Chyandour,

has constantly new potatoes at Christmas, and through the whole of

January and part of February, raised _in the open garden_, with no

other shelter than that afforded by some matting during the coldest

nights.

[6] Mr. Boase has lately published, in the 2d volume of the

Transactions of the Cornish Society, a very interesting letter upon

this subject, (in the possession of Mrs. Ley of Penzance, who is the

present representative of the Daniel family.) It was written, in

the reign of Charles II. to the then proprietor of an estate, which

included part of the "_Western Green_;" and that _part_ is there

estimated at _thirty-six acres of pasturage_!

[7] See "A memoir on the submersion of part of the Mount's Bay, by H.

Boase, Esq." in the 2d volume of the Cornish Transactions.

[8] "_On the third of the nones of November_," cries Florence of

Worcester, "_the sea comes out upon the shores, and buried towns and

men, very many, oxen and sheep innumerable_." While the Saxon Chronicle

relates that "_this year eke, on Saint Martin's mass day, sprang up so

much the sea flood, and so myckle harm did, as no man minded it ever

afore did_."

PENZANCE.

[Illustration]

Having offered a rapid coup d'oeil of the country we are about to

examine, we shall now conduct the stranger into _Penzance_,[9] as being

a town well calculated to afford him an eligible residence; many of

the various objects of interest are within the range of a morning's

ride, and he will meet with every accommodation that may be required

for the performance of his excursions; if his pursuit be mineralogy and

geology, it is in this town that he will find others zealously engaged

in the study of the same science, from whom he will readily obtain much

local information; while in the collection of the Geological Society,

so liberally opened for the inspection of every scientific stranger, he

will see well defined specimens illustrative of the districts he may be

desirous of exploring.

The reader of this Guide, therefore, must thoroughly understand that

in the arrangement of the subsequent "Excursions," the various objects

of interest, to which it directs him, are described in an order best

adapted to the convenience of the resident at Penzance.

PENZANCE is the most western market town in the kingdom; about ten

miles from the land's end, and 282 miles W.S.W. of London. It is

beautifully situated on the north-west shore of the Mount's Bay, on

a declivity jetting into the sea. The lands in its vicinity having

a substratum of _hornblende rock_ and _slate_, are not exceeded in

fertility by any soil in the kingdom; a belt of land around the town,

which consists of about a thousand acres, producing an annual rent

of £10,000! The town is well defended by surrounding hills from the

fury of Atlantic storms. It is large and populous, containing more

than six thousand inhabitants. The Corporation[10] consists of a

mayor, recorder, eight aldermen, and twelve common-council men; by

whose funds,[11] unaided by any parliamentary grant, a very commodious

pier was erected about fifty years ago, and which has lately been

considerably extended, so that it is now more than 600 feet in length,

and is the largest pier in Cornwall. It has, moreover, received the

addition of a light which is displayed every night, from half flood to

half ebb, and is consequently extinguished as soon as there is less

than nine feet of water within the pier. At high water there is now at

Spring tides 22 feet[12] of water, which is about five feet more than

that at the pier of Saint Michael's Mount. The expenses incurred by

these late improvements are to be paid by a new tariff, established by

an act passed in the year 1817.

The mother church is situated at Madron, but there is a chapel of ease

in the town, dedicated to Saint Mary, the simple and unassuming spire

of which forms a very interesting object in the bay.

Besides the established church, there are several places of religious

worship. The Wesleyan Methodists' chapel, built in the year 1814, is

the most complete and capacious meeting-house in the county. There

are, moreover, appropriate places of worship for the Independents,

Baptists, and Quakers, and a synagogue for the Jews.

Penzance is one of those towns to which the tinners bring their tin to

be "_coined_" as it is called, that is, to be assayed and licensed by

the officers of the Duchy, who take off a piece from the _corner_[13]

of each block; and if they find it sufficiently pure, stamp the

former with the Duke's arms. The stranger will be much struck by the

singular sight of many thousand blocks of Tin, which lie in heaps,

like worthless rubbish, about the street,[14] each weighing about 320

lb. and may perhaps be worth from £18 to £20. The Tin intended for the

Mediterranean trade is here formed into bars, while that designed for

exportation to the East Indies is cast into ingots.

There is a Public Dispensary, supported by the voluntary contributions

of the inhabitants, aided occasionally by the donations of those

invalid strangers, who, grateful for the reestablishment of health in

themselves, eagerly adopt this mode of contributing to its restoration

in others. Few institutions for the accomplishment of a similar object,

have proved more extensively beneficial; and none, we will venture to

add, were ever superintended with more humane attention.

To the scientific visitor, Penzance possesses an interest of no

ordinary degree. In the year 1814, DR. PARIS, who was at that time the

resident physician, succeeded, through the support of the nobility,

gentry, and mine agents of the county, in establishing a society for

the cultivation and promotion of mineralogical and geological science;

and, when we consider the immense advantages of its locality, the

ability of its members, and the zeal and munificence of its patrons,

we cannot be surprised to find that the short period of nine years has

been sufficient to raise it to a respectable rank amongst the eminent

institutions of this country. His present Majesty, having graciously

condescended to become its patron, it is now denominated the ROYAL

GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF CORNWALL. The Marquis of Hertford, Lord Warden

of the Stannaries, and The Right Honourable Lord De Dunstanville,

are its Vice-Patrons, and Davies Gilbert, Esq. M.P., the President;

while amongst its officers and members it has enrolled the names

of many individuals of the first rank and science in the kingdom.

Two volumes of the Society's Transactions are already given to the

public, from which a fairer estimate may be formed of the value of its

labours, than from any sketch which the limited pages of this "_Guide_"

could possibly afford; we shall, however, for the information of our

scientific readers, present, in the _Appendix_, a list of the different

memoirs which each volume contains. The splendid and extensive

series of minerals, already exceeding four thousand specimens, which

are deposited in an elegant and spacious museum,[15] offers a most

honourable and durable testimony of the zeal and talent with which this

department has been conducted; while to the student in mineralogy it

affords a most desirable and solid system of instruction; indeed it has

already excited such a spirit of inquiry among the miners, as to have

led to the discovery of several minerals before unknown in Cornwall.

There is also an oeconomical department, containing specimens in

illustration of the various changes which the ores of Tin, Copper, &c.

undergo in the processes of dressing and smelting. Models are likewise

to be seen of the machinery which is employed in such operations. The

whole has been admirably arranged under the skilful direction of the

Curator, _E. C. Giddy, Esq._

In the geological department of the Museum are complete series of

specimens illustrative of the serpentine formation of the _Lizard_,--of

the slate formation of the "_Land's End District_,"--of the limestone

formation of Veryan, and of the hornblende rocks of St. Cleer near

Liskeard. There is besides an interesting series of "_Elvans_"[16] from

different levels in many of the principal mines of the county, together

with a collection of veins of metallic and earthy substances.

Among the earthy minerals, we may particularize, as unusually fine,

the specimens of _Calcedony_, _Sodalite_, _Haüyne_, _Petalite_,

_Colophonite_, _Vesuvian_, &c. In the metallic department, we may

notice the _Carbonate of Lead_, _Specular Iron_, _Arseniate of Iron_,

_the Oxide, Carbonate, Arseniate and Phosphate of Copper_, _Native

Gold_ from the Tin-stream-works of Cornwall, _Arsenical Pyrites_,

_Uranite_, _Uran-ochre_, _Native Nickel_, &c. Here also may be seen

a mineral, hitherto almost unknown,--_a Sub-carburet of Iron_; it

was analysed by that late eminent chemist, the _Rev. W. Gregor_, who

received it from the hands of the _Rev. J. Rogers_ of Mawnan. It was

found in a vein about half an inch wide, intersecting either hard

_Clay-slate_ or _Graywacké_. Among the saline minerals in the cabinet

are _Glauberite_, and _Sassoline_ or native Boracic acid.

A Laboratory, containing the necessary apparatus for analytical

operations, is attached to the establishment.

In conclusion, we will venture to affirm, that the advantages and

enjoyments which such societies are calculated to afford are not

only obtained without any expense to the country in which they are

encouraged, but that they actually repay _in wealth_ and _emolument_

much more than they require for their support. Had the Cornish Society

been earlier called into existence, we should never have heard of

the most valuable productions of our country having been thrown into

the sea, nor of their having been used as materials for the repair

of roads, or the construction of cottages: on the contrary, how

many thousand tons of ore might have been gained?--how many years

of unprofitable but expensive labour saved? and how many individual

adventurers preserved from disappointment, or rescued from ruin?

Amongst the efforts made by this Society to improve the theory and

art of mining, through the application of science, not the least

interesting and praiseworthy is that which relates to the prevention of

accidental explosion in the methods of blasting rocks with gunpowder,

by the introduction of "_Safety Instruments_."

How little aware is the great mass of the community at what an expense

of human suffering and misery the ordinary necessaries of civilized

life are obtained! Few of our readers, we will venture to say, have

ever heard of the dreadful extent of the accidents which have occurred

in the mines of Cornwall from the use of _iron_ rammers, in the process

of charging the rock with gunpowder, in order to blast it. Hundreds

have been thus sent to an untimely grave, or, what perhaps is still

worse, have been so mutilated as to remain blind and helpless objects

of misery for the rest of their days, while their wives and children

have been thus driven, in a state of destitution, to the hard necessity

of seeking from charity that pittance which honest industry could no

longer supply. We must refer the reader for a full account of this

appalling subject to Dr. Paris's Memoir, in the first volume of the

Society's Transactions, entitled "_On the Accidents which occur in

the Mines of Cornwall, in consequence of the premature explosion of

Gunpowder in blasting rocks; and on the methods to be adopted for

preventing it, by the introduction of a Safety Bar, and an instrument

termed the Shifting Cartridge_."

We earnestly, therefore, entreat the Society to persevere in those

laudable efforts, which have already ensured for it the respect of the

learned, and the gratitude of the public.--_Floreat._

Besides the instructive collection of the Geological Society, the

splendid cabinet of _Joseph Carne, Esq._ may now be seen in this

town, for since the first edition of this "_Guide_," the Cornish

Copper Company have given up their smelting establishment at Hayle,

at which place _Mr. Carne_ formerly lived as the resident partner.

Among the principal excellencies of this collection we may notice

_Prehnite_, in a variety of forms; _Axinite_ in the usual forms of

that mineral; _Stilbite_ in flat four-sided prisms, terminated by

pyramids; _Mesotype_ radiated; _Garnets_ in twelve, and twenty-four

sided crystals; _Pinite_ in six and twelve sided prisms; _Uranite_

in quadrangular tables with the angles sometimes truncated, and

also in forms much resembling cubes and octohedrons; _Uran-ochre_;

_Native Bismuth_; and _Specular Iron ore_, little inferior in beauty

to that brought from Elba,--all of which are from Saint Just. From

other parts of Cornwall are _Sulphate of Lead_ (Vellenoweth Mine) in

a variety of forms, more especially in one resembling an octahedron;

_Grey Sulphuret of Copper_ (Crenver mine), the best defined crystals

of which are very obtuse dodecahedrons, and six sided prisms; in some

specimens the dodecahedron is so placed upon the summit of a prism as

to produce the whimsical appearance of a nail, which from its rarity

is sought after by mineral collectors with considerable avidity. Two

specimens of rarity also in this collection are the _Yellow_, and _Grey

Sulphuret of Copper_, in forms approaching that of Cube; the latter is

pseudomorphous.

The Penwith Agricultural Society holds its meetings, and distributes

its premiums, in this town. Nothing can be more in place than such

an institution. Geology and Agriculture are kindred sciences, and

it has been truly observed that there is no district in the British

Empire where the natural relations between the varieties of soil and

the subjacent rocks can be more easily discovered and traced, or more

effectually investigated, than in the county of Cornwall; and no where

can the information which such an enquiry is capable of affording, be

more immediately and successfully applied for the improvement of waste

lands, and the general advancement of agricultural science.

The market of Penzance, for the goodness, variety, and cheapness of its

commodities, is certainly not surpassed by any other in the kingdom; to

the great quantity of salt usually mixed with the food of the swine,

is perhaps to be attributed the delicacy and richness of the pork;

whilst, owing to the fine pasturage of the neighbourhood, the heifer

beef is superior, beyond comparison, to the Scotch. It is worthy also

of notice, that during the winter season the market is filled with a

variety of wild-fowl, woodcocks, snipes, &c. which are offered for

sale at extremely low prices. The market is held on Thursdays and

Saturdays; but every description of fish in season, as _Red Mullet_,

_John Doree_, _Turbot_, _Sole_, _Mackarel_, _Whiting_, _Pilchard_,

_Herring_, &c. &c. may be purchased from the Newlyn fish-women, who are

in daily attendance at their stalls, and whose fine symmetry, delicate

complexions, curling ringlets, and the brilliancy of whose jet black

eyes, as they dart their rays from beneath the shade of large gypsey

hats of beaver, fill the traveller with admiration.

We beg leave to introduce the reader to two of these _Nymphs of the

Cowel_.[17]

[Illustration]

Whilst speaking of the delicacies of the table we must not omit to

mention the _clotted_ or _clouted_ cream of this and the neighbouring

county,[18] a luxury with which the epicures of other parts are wholly

unacquainted.

The town of Penzance is rapidly extending itself; new houses are

continually rising in commanding situations; and, since the publication

of the first edition of this work, HOT AND COLD SEA BATHS have been

completed upon a suitable scale of convenience. The waiting room

belonging to this establishment commands a prospect of very singular

beauty. St. Michael's Mount rising boldly in front, forms a striking

relief to the extended line of coast which constitutes the back ground;

while the undulating shores on the left, skirted by the little village

of Chyandour, are well contrasted, on the opposite side, with the busy

scene of the pier, and the numerous vessels in the harbour.

In enumerating the advantages this town holds out as a residence to

invalids, it deserves notice that a packet sails every Friday to the

Scilly Islands, and returns on the following Tuesday. The distance is

about fourteen leagues, and, with a fair wind, the passage is generally

accomplished in six hours; but with contrary winds it has sometimes,

though very rarely, exceeded two days.

In a town so remote from the metropolis, and in a great degree

insulated from the other parts of the empire, it is not extraordinary

that we should find the traces of several very ancient customs. The

most singular one is, perhaps, the celebration of the Eve of Saint

John the Baptist,[19] our town saint, which falls on Midsummer Eve;

and that of the Eve of Saint Peter, the patron of fishermen. No sooner

does the tardy sun sink into the western ocean than the young and old

of both sexes, animated by the genius of the night, assemble in the

town, and different villages of the bay, with lighted torches. Tar

barrels having been erected on tall poles in the market place, on the

pier, and in other conspicuous spots, are soon urged into a state of

vivid combustion, shedding an appalling glare on every surrounding

object, and which when multiplied by numerous reflections in the

waves, produce at a distant view a spectacle so singular and novel

as to defy the powers of description; while the stranger who issues

forth to gain a closer view of the festivities of the town, may well

imagine himself suddenly transported to the regions of the furies and

infernal gods; or, else that he is witnessing, in the magic mirror

of Cornelius Agrippa, the awful celebration of the fifth day of the

Eleusinian Feast;[20] while the shrieks of the female spectators, and

the triumphant yells of the torch bearers, with their hair streaming

in the wind, and their flambeaus whirling with inconceivable velocity,

are realities not calculated to dispel the illusion. No sooner are the

torches burnt out than the numerous inhabitants engaged in the frolic,

pouring forth from the quay and its neighbourhood, form a long string,

and, hand in hand, run furiously through every street, vociferating "an

eye,"--"an eye,"--"an eye"! At length they suddenly stop, and the two

last of the string, elevating their clasped hands, form _an eye_ to

this enormous _needle_, through which the _thread_ of populace runs;

and thus they continue to repeat the game, until weariness dissolves

the union, which rarely happens before midnight.

On the following day (_Midsummer day_) festivities of a very

different character enliven the bay; and the spectator can hardly be

induced to believe that the same actors are engaged in both dramas.

At about four or five o'clock in the afternoon, the country people,

drest in their best apparel, pour into Penzance from the neighbouring

villages, for the purpose of performing an aquatic divertisement. At

this hour the quay and pier are crowded with holiday-makers, where

a number of vessels, many of which are provided with music for the

occasion, lie in readiness to receive them. In a short time the

embarkation is completed, and the sea continues for many hours to

present a moving picture of the most animating description.

Penzance is remarkable in history for having been entered and burnt by

the Spaniards, in the year 1595. From time immemorial a prediction had

prevailed, that a period would arrive when "_Some strangers should land

on the rocks of Merlin, who should burn Paul's Church, Penzance, and

Newlyn_." Of the actual accomplishment of this prediction we receive

a full account from Carew, from which it would appear that on the 23d

of July, 1595, about two hundred men landed from a squadron of Spanish

gallies, on the coast of Mousehole, when they set fire to the church of

Paul, and then to Mousehole itself. Finding little or no resistance,

they proceeded to Newlyn,[21] and from thence to Penzance. Sir Francis

Godolphin endeavoured to inspire the inhabitants with courage to repel

these assailants; but, so fascinated were they by the remembrance of

the ancient prophecy, that they fled in all directions, supposing that

it was useless to contend against the destiny that had been predicted.

The Spaniards availing themselves of this desertion, set it on fire in

different places, as they had already done to Newlyn, and then returned

to their galleys, intending to renew the flames on the ensuing day;

but the Cornish having recovered from their panic, and assembled in

great numbers on the beach, so annoyed the Spaniards with their bullets

and arrows, that they drew their galleys farther off, and availing

themselves of a favourable breeze, put to sea and escaped.

It is worthy of remark, that when the Spaniards first came on shore,

they actually landed on a rock called "_Merlin_." The historian

concludes this narrative by observing that these were the only

Spaniards that ever landed in England as enemies.

In recalling the historical events which have invested this town with

interest, we had nearly omitted to state, that a tradition exists here,

that _Tobacco_ was first smoked by _Sir Walter Raleigh_ in Penzance, on

his landing from America. By the Philosopher of a future age Penzance

will, doubtless, as the birth place of the illustrious SIR HUMPHRY

DAVY, be regarded with no ordinary share of interest; and to those who

may be led to perform a pilgrimage to the early laboratory of this

highly gifted philosopher, the vignette at the head of the present

chapter will be found materially useful in directing his steps.[22]

It would be inconsistent with the plan and objects of the present work

to enter into the details of biography, that duty must be reserved

for an abler pen, we shall therefore only state that the present

distinguished President of the Royal Society was born in this town in

the year 1779, and that after having received the earlier part of his

education under _Dr. Cardew_ at Truro, he was placed with a respectable

professional gentleman of Penzance, of the name of _Tonkin_, in order

that he might acquire a knowledge of the profession of a surgeon and

apothecary. His early proofs of genius, however, having attracted a

gentleman well known for his strong perception of character, he was

fortunately removed to a field better calculated to call forth the

latent energies of his mind. The result is too well known to require

comment.

In the vicinity of the town are delightful walks through shady dingles,

and over swelling hills, from whose summits we catch the most delicious

sea and land prospects; and which are not a little heightened in beauty

and effect by the glowing aerial tints so remarkably displayed in this

climate at the rising and setting of the sun. Here too the Botanist may

cull, in his rambles, a great variety of rare indigenous plants; with a

catalogue[23] of which we shall now close the present chapter.

LIST OF INDIGENOUS PLANTS OF WESTERN CORNWALL.

Alisma Damasonium (_Star-headed Water Plantain_) between Penzance

and Marazion.

A---- Ranuncoloides. Marazion Marsh.

Anchusa Officinalis (_Common Alkanet_) St. Ives, &c.

Anethum Foeniculum, common near Marazion.

A---- Graveolens. Marazion Marsh.

Aquilegia Vulgaris (_Common Columbine_) St. Ives, Goldsithney, &c.

Antirrhinum Orontium (_Lesser Snapdragon_) Gulval, Land's End.

A---- Montspessilanum (_Bee Orchis_) Penhryn.

Anthemis Nobilis (_Common Chamomile_) passim.

Anthyllis Vulneraria (_dwarf with a red flower_.) (_Kidney-Vetch_,

_Ladies' Finger_). Downs, Whitsand Bay.

Aspidium Oriopteris (_Heath Shield-fern_) Gear Stamps and New

Mill.

Aspidium Dilatatum. Variety. (_Great Crested ditto_) Moist Banks.

Asplenium Marinum (_Sea Spleenwort_) St. Michael's Mount, Land's

End, Logan rock.

A---- Lanceolatum (_Lanceolate ditto_) Gulval, St. Michael's

Mount, Lemorna Cove, &c.

Bartsia Viscosa (_Yellow Viscid Bartsia_) Cornfields near Hayle.

Brassica Oleracea (_Sea Cabbage_) Cliffs, Penzance.

Briza Minor (_Small Quaking-grass_) Cornfields between Gulval and

Ludgvan.

Bunias Cakile (_Sea Rocket_) Beach between Penzance and Newlyn.

Campanula Hederacea (_Ivy-leaved Bell-flower_) Trevaylor Bottom,

Gear Stamps, &c.

Chironia Littoralis (_Sea Centaury_) Beach between Penzance and

Marazion.

Cochlearia Officinalis (_Common Scurvy-grass_) Cliffs near the Sea,

common.

Convolvulus Soldanella (_Sea Bindweed_) Whitsand Bay, Marazion

Green.

Cucsuta Epithymum (_Lesser Dodder_) common upon Gorse.

Cynosurus Echinatus (_Rough Dog's-tail Grass_) Ludgvan.

Daucus Maritimus (_Wild Carrot_) Land's end, Logan rock, Botallack,

&c.

Dicranum Cerviculatum (_Red-necked Forked Moss_) Gulval, Scilly.

D---- Crispum (_Curled ditto_) St. Mary's, Scilly.

Drosera Longifolia (_Long-leaved Sun-dew_) Marsh between Marazion

and Penzance.

Erica Vagans (_Cornish Heath_) Lizard Peninsula.

Erodium Maritimum (_Sea Stork's Bill_) Sea shore, common.

E---- Cicutarium (_Hemlock's Stork's Bill_) ditto.

Eryngium Maritimum (_Sea Holly_) Sea shore, common.

Euphorbia Peplis (_Purple Spurge_) Marazion Green.

E---- Portlandica (_Portland ditto_) Scilly Islands.

Exacum Filiforme (_Least Gentianella_) Marazion Marsh, beyond the

half way houses.

Genista Pilosa (_Hairy Green-weed_) Kynance Cove.

Gentiana Campestris (_Field Gentian_) Downs, Whitsand Bay,

Lizard, &c.

Geranium Columbinum (_Long-stalked Crane's-bill_) Ludgvan.

G---- Sanguineum (_Bloody Crane's bill_) Kynance Cove.

Glaucium Luteum (_Yellow Horned Poppy_) Scilly Islands.

Helleborus Viridis (_Green Hellebore_) between Rosmorran and Kenegie,

near the brook.

Herniaria Hirsuta (_Hairy Rupture wort_) between Mullion and the

Lizard.

Hookeria Lucens (_Shining Feather-moss_) Trevaylor Bottom. Between

Rosmorran and Kenegie.

Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense (_Filmy-leaved fern_) Among the

loose stones at Castle An Dinas, on the east side.

Hypnum Scorpioides (_Scorpion Feather-moss_) Gulval, Zennor, &c.

H---- Alopecurum, variety (_Fox-tail ditto_) Gulval.

Illecebrum Verticillatum (_Whorled Knot-grass_) Gulval, Gear

Stamps, Land's end.

Inula Helenium (_Elecampane_) Gulval, The Mount, St. Ives, Scilly.

Iris Foetidissima (_Stinking Iris_, _Roast Beef Plant_) Madron.

Linum Angustifolium (_Narrow-leaved pale Flax_) St. Ives.

L---- Usitatissimum. Near Redruth.

Littorella Lacustris (_Plantain Shoreweed_). In a watery lane near

Penzance.

Mentha Odorata (_Bergamot Mint_) Burian.

M---- Rotundifolia (_Round-leaved Mint_) Between Penzance and

Newlyn, Whitsand Bay.

Myrica Gale (_Sweet Gale_, _Dutch Myrtle_) Marsh, Gulval, and Ludgvan.

Neckera Heteromalla (_Lateral Neckera_) Trevaylor Bottom, Try,

&c.

Neottia Spiralis. Between Penzance and Marazion.

Orchis Pyramidalis (_Pyramidal Orchis_) near Hayle.

Ornithogalum Umbellatum (_Common Star of Bethlehem_) near Marazion.

Ornithopus Perpusillus (_Common Bird's-foot_) Gulval, Carne, &c.

Osmunda Regalis (_Royal Moonwort_) Poltair.

Panicum Dactylum (_Creeping Panick Grass_) Marazion Beach.

Pinguicula Lusitanica (_Pale Butterwort_) Bogs in the neighbourhood.

Pyrethrum Maritimum (_Sea Feverfew_) Sea-shore.

Rubia Peregrina (_Wild Madder_) Hayle-Helston, &c.

Reseda Luteola (_Wild Woad_, _Dyer's Weed_) Coarse lands beyond

Marazion.

Rumex Sanguineus (_Bloody-veined Dock_) Gulval.

Ruscus Aculeatus (_Butcher's Broom_) Lemorna Cove, &c.

Salvia Verbenacea (_Wild English Clary_) St. Ives, Scilly, &c.

Samolus Valerandi (_Brook-weed_ or _Water Pimpernel_) Land's end,

&c.

Santolina Maritima (_Sea Cotton weed_) Marazion beach.

Saponaria Officinalis (_Soap-wort_) St. Levan, Tresco Island, Scilly.

Saxifraga Stellaris (_Hairy Saxifrage_) Logan rock.

Scilla Verna (_Vernal Squill_) St. Ives, near Zennor, Morvah, opposite

to Three Stone Oar.

Scirpus Fluitans (_Floating Club Rush_) Gulval Marsh.

Scutellaria Minor (_Lesser Skull-cap_) Bogs, Gulval.

Scrophularia Scorodonia (_Balm-leaved Figwort_) St. Ives, Gulval,

and Chyandour, plentifully.

Sedum Anglicum (_English Stonecrop_) very common.

S---- Telephium (_Orpine_ or _Livelong_) Logan rock.

Sibthorpia Europæa (_Cornish Moneywort_) Moist banks, Gulval,

Madron Well, Trereife Avenue; Helston, &c.

Silene Anglica (_English Catchfly_) common in Cornfields.

Solidago Virgaurea (_Common Golden-rod_) Penzance, &c.

Spergula Nodosa (_Knotted Spurrey_) near Marazion.

Spiræa Filipendula (_Common Dropwort_) Kynance Cove.

Stachys Arvensis (_Corn Woundwort_) Cornfields, common.

Tamarix Gallica (_French Tamarisk_) The Mount-Lizard, Scilly

Islands, but very probably introduced.

Trichostomum Polyphyllum (_Fringe Moss_) Gulval, Kenegie, &c.

Trifolium Subterraneum (_Subterraneous Trefoil_) near the Sea-shore.

Verbascum Nigrum (_Dark Mullein_) Gulval.

Utricularia Vulgaris (_Common Bladderwort_) between Rosmorran

and Kenegie.

FOOTNOTES:

[9] Penzance signifies, in Cornish, _Holy-head_, i. e. _holy headland_;

and the town appears to have been so called in consequence of a small

chapel, dedicated to that universal patron of fishermen, Saint Anthony,

having formerly stood on the projecting point near the present quay.

When it became necessary to adopt arms for the town, the true origin

of its name was forgotten or overlooked, and the holy head of Saint

John emblazoned. It would, however, appear from the _Liber valorum_,

that _Buriton_ was the old name of Penzance,--a sound which to the ear

of the antiquary is full of historical intelligence, for the addition

of _Bury_ to the name of a town signified that it was a town with a

castle; thus, _Buriton_ signified Bury-town, i. e. the Castle town.

Some cellars near the quay are to this day called the _Barbican_

cellars; thus tradition points out the castle to have been upon, or

near, the site of the present chapel.

[10] Penzance was first incorporated in the reign of king James, in

1614; which charter was confirmed by Charles II.

[11] The history of these funds exhibits a curious instance of the

increase in value which property undergoes, in a series of years, from

the progressive improvements of the district in which it lies. The

revenue of the Corporation, nearly £2000 per annum, is derived from

an estate which was purchased from one Daniel, in the year 1614, for

the sum of £34, and 20 shillings a year fee farm rent, payable out of

the same to the vender and his representatives for ever. This estate

is described in the writings to be "a three corner plot with a timber

house (then) lately erected thereon, together with the tolls, profits,

and dues of the fairs, markets, and of the pier." The increase of its

value has arisen from the enlargement of the market now held on the

spot, and from the dues arising from the improved and extended pier.

[12] We are desirous of recording this fact since it continues to be

erroneously stated in the publication called the "_Coasting Pilot_,"

as well as in all charts, to be only 13 feet, as it was before the

improvements. From the perpetuation of this error the masters of

vessels unacquainted with the place, refuse to credit the pilots, when

informed by them of the depth of the water.

[13] The operation is termed "_Coining_," not, as is very generally

supposed, from the stamping of the Duke's arms, but from the cutting

off the _corner_ of each block, from the French word _coin_, a

_corner_. For every cwt. so stamped, the Duke receives four shillings,

producing an annual revenue of £10,000.

[14] Since the first edition, the place of coinage has been changed

from the middle of the town to a large area near the quay.

[15] The rooms originally occupied by the Society, and which are

represented in the vignette at the head of this chapter, becoming too

small to accommodate the growing collection, a capacious and handsome

suite of rooms were erected in the year 1817; to which are now attached

a public library, and a room for the reception of newspapers. The

former was established in 1818, under the auspices of Sir Rose Price,

Bart. and with the support of above a hundred subscribers in the

neighbourhood.

[16] See a paper "_On Elvan Courses_," by J. Carne, Esq. in the first

volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.

[17] The _Cowel_ is the provincial name of the peculiar basket in which

they convey their fish, and is carried by means of a string round their

hats, as represented above. Its name has been supposed to have been

derived from its resemblance in position and appearance to the Monk's

_cowl_.

[18] The custom of obtaining the cream from new milk by coagulation

from heat, is peculiar to Devonshire, Cornwall, and the opposite

coast of Brittany, and is supposed to be of Celtic origin. The butter

obtained by beating up this cream does not differ much in flavour from

that procured by churning new cream, except the process be carelessly

conducted, when it will acquire a smoky taste.

[19] It is reasonable to advert to the Summer Solstice for this custom,

although brought into the Christian Calendar under the sanction of John

the Baptist. Those sacred fires "kindled about midnight, on the moment

of the Solstice by the great part of the ancient and modern nations.

The origin of which loses itself in antiquity;" See _Gebelin_, and also

_Brand's Observations on Popular Antiquities_.

[20] The fifth day of the Eleusinian feast was called "_the day of the

Torches_," because at night the men and women ran about with them in

imitation of Ceres, who, having lighted a torch at the fire of Mount

Ætna, wandered about from place to place, in search of her daughter

Proserpine. Hence may we not trace the high antiquity of this species

of popular rejoicing.

[21] Will not this historical fact explain the peculiar cast of beauty

possessed by many of the Fish-women residing in this village.

[22] The house is the first on the left of the ascending footway,

and its only two small windows visible in the vignette, are situated

immediately beneath the clock of the market house tower.

[23] Many of these plants were enumerated in the former edition of this

work, to which are now added some others, from the catalogue published

by Dr. Forbes, in his observations on the climate of Penzance.

EXCURSION I.

TO SAINT MICHAEL'S MOUNT.

"This precious stone, set in the silver sea!"

_Richard II. Act 2. scene 1._

The traveller no sooner catches a glimpse of this extraordinary feature

in the bay, than he becomes impatient to explore it; anticipating this

feeling we have selected it as an object for his first excursion, and

in its performance we promise him an intellectual repast of no ordinary

kind.

To proceed to the Mount, by sea, the stranger may embark at Penzance

pier, from which it is not more than two miles distant; by this

arrangement an opportunity will be afforded for witnessing a fine

panoramic view of the coast; should, however, his inclination, or the

"tyranny of the winds and waves" oppose this project, he may proceed

by land through the little village of Chyandour, over a semicircular

beach covered with fine sand of about three miles in extent. Between

this sand and the high road is the "_Eastern Green_," celebrated as the

habitat of some rare plants, viz. _Panicum Dactylum_ (in a line with

Gulval church); _Chironia Littoralis_; _Alisma Damasonium_; _Neottia

Spiralis_; _Euphorbia Peplis_; _Euphorbia Paralias_; _Santolina

Maritima_; _Convolvulus Soldanella_, &c. On the beach the Conchologist

may collect some fine specimens of the _Echinus Cordatus_, which is the

only shell ever found there. In the marshes on the left side of the

road the common observer will be struck with the extreme luxuriance

of the _Nymphæa alba_, while the Botanist may reap an ample harvest

of interesting plants, viz. splendid specimens of _Montia Fontana_,

as large as the figure of Micheli; _Illecebrum Verticillatum_; _Sison

Inundatum_; _Apium Graveolens_; a rare variety of _Senechio Jacobæa_;

_Alisma Ranunculoides_; _Stellaria Uliginosa_; _Pinguicula Lusitanica_;

_Scirpus Fluitans_; _Exacum Filiforme_; _Drosera Longifolia_;

_Scutellaria Minor_; _Myrica Gale_, &c.

Before our arrival at Saint Michael's Mount, the only intermediate

object worthy of notice is the town of MARAZION, or MARKET JEW as it

is sometimes called. It stands upon the sea shore, on the eastern

shoulder of the bay, and is well sheltered from cold winds by a

considerable elevation of land to the north; still, however, as it is

exposed to the south-west, which is the prevailing wind, it is far less

eligible as a place of residence for invalids than Penzance.

The town contains more than 1100 inhabitants; its principal support, if

not its origin, according to some authors, was derived from the resort

of pilgrims and other religious devotees to the neighbouring sacred

edifice on Saint Michael's Mount; but its name was indisputably derived

from the Jews who traded here several centuries ago, and held an annual

_market_ for selling various commodities, and purchasing tin, and other

merchandize in return. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth it obtained a

charter, vesting its government in a mayor, eight aldermen, and twelve

capital burgesses, with a power to hold a weekly market, and two annual

fairs. In the preamble to this charter it is stated "that Marghaisewe

was a trading borough town of great antiquity, and that it suffered

considerable dilapidation in the days of Edward VI., when a number of

rebellious people entered, and took possession of the town, and laid

many of the buildings in ruin." From this disaster the town does not

appear to have ever recovered, while from the growing importance of

Penzance, the suppression of the Priory, and the loss of the Pilgrims,

from whom it derived its principal resources, its consequence gradually

declined, until at length it dwindled into its present condition.

It has been asserted on good authority, that under this charter of

Elizabeth, the town formerly sent members to Parliament, and _Dr.

Borlase_ in his manuscripts, mentions the names of _Thomas Westlake_,

and _Richard Mills, Esqrs._ as those of the two members who were

actually returned for Marazion in the year 1658. It does not, however,

appear that they ever took their seats. It would seem, moreover, from

some original letters which passed between the Sheriff of Cornwall and

the mayor of this borough, during the protectorate of Cromwell, that

the inhabitants were solicitous to recover their long neglected rights;

but this effort proved ineffectual.

In going from Marazion to the Mount, we pass a large insulated rock,

known by the name of the "_Chapel Rock_," whereon the Pilgrims, who

came to visit the Priory of Saint Michael, are said to have performed

certain devotionary and superstitious ceremonies, in a kind of

initiatory chapel, previous to their admission to the more sacred

Mount; there is not, however, the slightest vestige of any masonry to

be discovered, and it would therefore seem more probable that it merely

derived its name from its vicinity to the shrine of Saint Michael.

The rock is composed of well marked _Greenstone_, resting on a bed of

_clay-slate_, and which, in its direction and dip, will be found to

correspond with the slaty rock on the western base of the Mount.

We arrive at Saint Michael's Mount.--The rock of which it is composed

is of a conical form; gradually diminishing from a broad, craggy base,

towards its summit, which is beautifully terminated by the tower of a

chapel, so as to form a pyramidal figure. On its eastern base, is a

small fishing town, holding about 250 inhabitants; and a commodious

pier,[24] capable of containing fifty sail of small vessels, and which

proves to the proprietor of the Mount a considerable source of revenue.

The height from low water mark to the top of the chapel tower is

about 250 feet, being 48 feet higher than the monument in London. In

circumference at the base, the Mount measures nearly a mile, and is

said to contain about seven acres of land; such, however, is the effect

of the vast extent of horizon, and the expanded tract of water which

rolls around its base, that its real magnitude is apparently lost.

In a mineralogical point of view, this eminence is certainly the

most interesting in Cornwall, or perhaps in England; who can believe

that this little spot has occasioned greater controversy, and more

_ink_-shed than any mountain in the globe? yet such is the fact; let

us therefore before we ascend walk around its base and examine the

geological structure which has excited so much attention. The scenery

too is here of the most magnificent description; rocks overhang

rocks in ruinous grandeur, and appear so fearfully equipoised, that,

although secure in their immensity, they create in the mind the most

awful apprehension of their instability, whilst the mighty roar of the

ocean beneath, unites in effect with the scenery above.--All around is

sublime.----But the Geology, enough of the picturesque.

The body of the rock is composed of _Slate_ and _Granite_; the whole

northern base consists of the former, but no where does it extend

to any height, the upper part, in every direction, consisting of

_Granite_. On the south side this _Granite_ descends to the water's

edge, and it continues to constitute the whole of the hill, both on the

eastern and western side, for about three-fourths of its whole extent.

Where the granite terminates numerous veins of it appear in the slate,

in many different directions; while the granite in its turn, encloses

patches of slate. In the vicinity of the former rock the latter is

found to contain so much _Mica_, as to resemble _Micaceous Schist_, or

fine grained _Gneiss_, for which it has been erroneously taken by some

of our earlier observers. And, while at some of these junctions there

would seem to be a mere apposition of the two rocks, at others, the

intermixture is so complete as to render it difficult to say to which

of the two certain considerable masses belong.

Here then is the phenomenon which has invested the spot with so much

geological interest. Here is _Granite_, which _Werner_ conceived to be

a primary formation, and around which he supposed all other rocks to

have been deposited, if not of a later date, at least contemporaneous,

in origin, with slate. How is this anomaly to be explained? _De Luc_ at

once asserts what we presume no rational observer can for one moment

believe, that the rock of which these veins are composed is _not_ true

Granite, but "_Pseudo-granite_"! _Dr. Berger_ attempts to surmount

the difficulty by a different expedient, and declares that _they are

not veins!_ but prominences from the granite beneath, which have been

filled up by the subsequent deposition of clay-slate. It might, says

_Sir H. Davy_,[25] with nearly as much reason be stated, that the veins

of copper and tin belong to a great interior metallic mass, and that

they existed prior to the rocks in which they are found. The advocates

of the Plutonian theory have, as might have been supposed, eagerly

availed themselves of the support which this phenomenon is so well

calculated to afford their favourite doctrine. They accordingly affirm

that the granite has been raised up through the incumbent slate, into

whose fissures it has insinuated itself. Upon these theories we shall

offer no comment; it is the humble task of a "Guide" merely to direct

the attention of the traveller to the phenomena themselves, and then

to leave him to deduce his own conclusions from their appearance. In

the fulfilment of this duty we recommend the geologist to proceed to

the western base of the Mount, where he will find near the water's

edge, what have been considered by _Dr. Thomson_ as "two large beds

of granite in the slate, with veins running off from them; the

position and appearance of which are such as to leave no doubt but

that the great body of the granite has been deposited posterior to

the slate formation." _Mr. Carne_, on the other hand, contends that

"these granitic bodies cannot with any propriety be called '_Beds in

the Slate_;' one of them," says he, "is a granite vein, and although

six feet wide near the granite mass, it becomes gradually smaller as

it recedes, and dwindles to a point at the distance of 80 feet. The

other is a part of the granitic mass, from which some veins appear to

diverge; and, in _no part_ does it overlie the slate."[26]

The whole body of the Granite of the Mount is traversed by an

uninterrupted series of quartz veins, which run parallel to each other

with wonderful regularity. They are very nearly vertical, and their

direction is east and west. On the north-east side of the Mount many

of them can be traced into the incumbent slate; a circumstance which

strongly supports the idea of the cotemporaneous origin of these two

rocks. In the investigation of these veins the Mineralogist may pass

many an hour with satisfaction, we shall therefore point out some

of the more leading phenomena which deserve his attention. _De Luc_

observed that "that part of the vein termed in Cornwall the _Capel_,

and on the Continent _Selebanque_, and which is the first stratum

adherent to the sides of the fissures, changes as it passes through

different kinds of strata, sometimes consisting of white _Quartz_,

sometimes of _Mica_." _Dr. Forbes_[27] says, that "occasionally, though

rarely, the line of division between the vein and the rock is tolerably

distinct; frequently, however, there is rather an insensible gradation

of the matter of the one into that of the other, than an obvious

apposition of surfaces." The exterior parts of the veins consist of

a bluish _quartz_, very compact, and uniformly containing a great

deal of _Schorl_. This _schorlaceous_ character is much more distinct

towards the sides or walls of the veins, their centre being generally

pure _quartz_; and, commonly, crystallized. In most of the veins there

is a central line, or fissure, which divides them into two portions;

this is formed by the close apposition and occasional union of two

crystallized, or, as they may be called, _drusy_ surfaces.

Since Veins must be considered as having once been the most active

laboratories of Nature, so may they now be regarded as her most

valuable cabinets of mineralogy. In those of Saint Michael's Mount

may be found crystals of _Apatite_, from a very light to a very dark

green colour, and exhibiting most of the modifications of form[28]

which are common to that mineral; _Oxide of Tin_; _Felspar_; _Mica_

beautifully crystallized in tables; _Topaz_ in small whitish or

greenish crystals,[29] both translucent and opaque, and which are

extremely numerous, many hundred being observable on the face of some

small blocks of granite that have fallen from the precipices.

_Pinite_ has been said to have been also discovered in this spot.

Besides which may be found that rare mineral, the _Triple Sulphuret of

Copper,_ _Antimony, and Lead_; _Sulphuret of Tin_; _Malachite_; _Fluor

Spar_; and _Wolfram_. The occurrence of this latter mineral was, we

believe, first noticed in the earlier edition of the present work, and

is important in as far as its presence is generally supposed to afford

decisive evidence of the primitive formation of the mountain masses in

which it occurs.

This spot also presents us with several lodes of _Tin_ and _Copper_;

the latter may be traced for a considerable distance from the eastern

to the southern base of the hill. The _lode_ of Tin was formerly worked

at the Mount, and a considerable quantity of ore obtained; any farther

excavation, however, threatened to injure the foundations of the

castle, and it was therefore prudently abandoned.

The remains of the Mine may be seen on the south side of the hill,

and should be visited by the mineralogist, who will find in the

_Drift_,[30] _Tin crystals_ and _Carbonate of Copper_, besides some

other minerals. Veins of Lead are also discoverable in the rocks.

_Mr. Carne_[31] has lately directed the attention of the mineralogist

to the _veins_ of _Mica_, which have hitherto only been found in the

granite of this singular spot. They are seldom more than half an inch

wide; and, although tolerably straight, are very short. They generally

consist of two layers of Mica in plates, which meet in the centre of

the veins. Some of the masses of _Granite_ which constitute the summit

of the Mount have the appearance of an old wall retaining, in parts,

a coating of plaster; this is the effect of decomposition, and of the

_capel_ having in many places remained attached to the face of the

rock, after the vein itself has crumbled down.

The Botanist will also find some amusement among the rocks; he will

observe the Tamarisk, (_Tamarix Gallica_) growing in their crevices,

and relieving by a delicate verdure the harsh uniformity of their

surfaces. This shrub was probably imported from Normandy by the Monks.

_Asplenium Marinum_ and _Inula Helenium_ are also to be seen among

the rocks--but let us leave the Botanist and Mineralogist to their

researches, while we climb the hill and examine the venerable building

on its summit.

We ascend on the north-eastern side, by a rocky winding path, in

the course of which, several remains of its ancient fortifications

present themselves; thus, about the middle of the hill, there is a

curtain, parallel to, and flanking the approach, at whose western end

is a ravelin, through which every one is to pass, walled with three

embrasures, and at the angle in the eastern shoulder is a centry box

to guard the passage, and there was formerly also an iron gate; after

having passed this ruin, we turn to our left, and ascend by a flight

of broken steps to the door of the castle, whose appearance is much

more monastic than martial. The most ancient parts of the building are

the Entrance, with the Guardroom on the left hand; the Chapel, and the

former Refectory, or common hall of the Monks. The other parts are of a

modern date, although the style of their architecture confers upon them

a corresponding air of antiquity.

The Refectory, or Common Hall, from the frieze, with which it is

ornamented, appears to have been fitted up, since the reformation, as

a dining room for a hunting party, and is popularly denominated "_The

Chevy-Chace Room_." The cornice represents in stucco, the modes of

hunting the wild boar, bull, stag, ostrich, hare, fox, and rabbit. At

the upper end of this room are the royal arms, with the date 1644;

and, at the opposite end, those of the St. Aubyn family. The room

is 33 feet long, 16 wide, and 18 high, and has a solemn and imposing

appearance, which is not a little heightened by the antique and

appropriate character of its furniture and ornaments.

The Chapel exhibits a venerable monument of Saxon architecture; its

interior has lately been renewed in a chaste style of elegance, and a

magnificent organ has been erected. During these repairs, in levelling

a platform for the altar, under the eastern window, a low gothic door

was discovered to have been closed up with stone in the southern wall,

and then concealed with the raised platform; when the enclosure was

broken through, ten steps appeared descending into a stone vault under

the church, about nine feet long, six or seven broad, and nearly as

many high. In this room was found the skeleton of a very large man,

without any remains of a coffin. The discovery, of course, gave rise

to many conjectures, but it seems most probable, that the man had been

there immured for some crime. The bones were removed and buried in the

body of the chapel. At the same time upon raising the old pavement,

the fragment of an inscribed sepulchral stone of some Prior was taken

up; there was also a grave stone, not inscribed, which Antiquaries

have supposed to have covered the remains of _Sir John Arundel_, of

Trerice, Knight, who was slain on the strand below, in the wars of

York and Lancaster. In the tower of this chapel are six sweet toned

bells, which frequently ring when _Sir John St. Aubyn_ is resident; at

this time also choral service is performed; and, on a calm day, the

undulating sound of the bells, and the swelling note of the organ,

as heard on the water, produce an effect which it is impossible to

describe.

From the chapel, we may ascend by a narrow stone stair-case to the top

of the tower. The prospect hence is of the grandest description, and

is perhaps as striking as any that can occur to "_mortal eye_." "The

immense extent of sea," says _Dr. Maton_, "raises the most sublime

emotions, the waves of the British, Irish, and Atlantic seas all roll

within the compass of the sight," whilst the eye is relieved from

the uniform, though imposing grandeur of so boundless an horizon, by

wandering on the north and west, over a landscape, which Claude himself

might have transfused on his canvas.

On one of the angles of this tower is to be seen the carcase of a stone

lantern, in which, during the fishing season, and in dark tempestuous

nights, it may reasonably be supposed that the monks, to whom the

tithe of such fishery belonged, kept a light, as a guide to sailors,

and a safeguard to their own property; this lantern is now vulgarly

denominated _Saint Michael's Chair_, since it will just admit one

person to sit down in it; the attempt is not without danger, for

the chair, elevated above the battlements, projects so far over the

precipice, that the climber must actually turn the whole body at that

altitude, in order to take a seat in it; notwithstanding the danger,

however, it is often attempted; indeed one of the first questions

generally put to a stranger, if married, after he has visited the

Mount,--did you sit in the chair?--for there is a conceit that, if a

married woman has sufficient resolution to place herself in it, it will

at once invest her with all the regalia of petticoat government; and

that if a married man sit in it, he will thereby receive ample powers

for the management of his wife. This is probably a remnant of monkish

fable, a supposed virtue conferred by some saint, perhaps a legacy of

St. Keyne, for the same virtue is attributed to her well.

"The person of that man or wife,

Whose chance, or choice attains

First of this sacred stream to drink,

Thereby the mastery gains."

On the north-eastern side of the fabric are situated the modern

apartments. They were erected by the late Sir _John St. Aubyn_ upon the

ruins of the ancient convent, in clearing away which, cart loads of

human bones were dug up, and interred elsewhere, the remains probably

both of the nuns and of the garrison. All that deserves notice in this

part are two handsome rooms leading into each other, from which the

prospect is of the most extensive description. In the first parlour,

placed in niches, are two large vases, with an alto relief of statuary

marble in each, relating to Hymeneal happiness.

Let us now take a review of the various interesting events, which the

traditionary lore of past ages represents as having occurred at this

spot, and first of the natural history of the Hill itself.

THE NATURAL HISTORY.--The rock of the Mount has worn the same aspect

for ages; tradition however whispers, that at a remote period it

presented a very different appearance,--that it was cloathed with

wood, and at a considerable distance from the sea! Its old Cornish

name, "_Carreg Lug en Kug_," that is, _the hoary rock in the wood_,

would seem to add some probability to the tradition. It appears also

from the original charter of the Confessor, that the Mount was in

his time only _nigh_ the sea, for he describes it expressly as Saint

Michael _near_ the sea, "Sanctum Michaelum qui est _juxta_ mare." What

this distance was the charter does not inform us, but the words of

Worcester, who gained his information from the legend of Saint Michael,

are sufficiently decisive, "_this place was originally inclosed within

a very thick wood, distant from the ocean six miles, affording the

finest shelter to wild beasts._" With respect to the period and causes

of the catastrophe which have changed the face of this country, we have

already offered some observations.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.--The Mount appears to have been consecrated

by superstition from the earliest period; and, according to monkish

legends, from the supposed appearance of the archangel Saint Michael

to some hermits, upon one of its craggy points. Tradition has not

preserved the place where the vision appeared, but antiquarianism

has attempted to supply the deficiency by conjecture; the spot was

denominated "_Saint Michael's Chair_," and is said to be one of the

large rocks overhanging the battery, an appellation which has been

erroneously transferred to the carcase of a stone lantern, situated,

as we have just stated, on the tower of the chapel. Our poet Milton

alludes to this vision in the following passage of his Lycidas--

"Or whether thou to our moist views deny'd

"Sleeps't by the fable of Bellerus old

"_Where the great vision of the guarded mount_

"Looks towards Namancos and Bayonas hold.

"Look homeward Angel now, and melt with ruth,

"And O ye dolphins, waft the hapless youth."

Spencer also makes mention of this spot in a manner which proves that

it was universally hallowed by the devout.

"In evil hour thou lenst in hond

"Thus holy hills to blame,

"For sacred unto Saints they stond,

"And of them han their name,

"St. Michael's Mount who does not know

"That wards the western coast."

Very little is known with respect to the ecclesiastical history of the

Mount, previous to its endowment by Edward the Confessor. From what may

be collected, however, from expiring tradition, it would appear that so

early as the end of the fifth century, Saint Keyne, a holy virgin of

the blood royal, daughter of Breganus Prince of Brecknockshire, with

her cockle hat and staff, performed a pilgrimage to Saint Michael's

Mount: now it is fair to conclude that it was before this time a place

universally hallowed, or a person of Saint Keyne's rank would not have

paid it such a visit; thus then was it renowned for its sanctity for

at least five hundred years before the grant and settlement of it by

the Confessor; before this period, however, it was probably little

more than an hermitage, or oratory, with the necessary reception for

pilgrims.

The Confessor found monks here serving God, and gave them by charter

the property of the Mount together with "all the land of _Vennefire_

(a district probably in Cornwall), with the towns, houses, fields,

meadows, land cultivated, and uncultivated, with their rents; together

with a port called _Ruminella_ (Romney in Kent), with all things that

appertain, as mills and fisheries," first obliging them to conform the

rule of the order of Saint Benedict.

The peculiar respect in which this church was held may be estimated

from an instrument recorded by William of Worcester, and asserted to

have been found amongst its ancient registers.

"To all members of Holy Mother Church, who shall read or hear these

letters, Peace and Salvation. Be it known unto you all, that our Most

Holy Lord Pope Gregory, in the year of Christ's Incarnation, 1070, out

of his great zeal and devotion to the church of Mount Saint Michal,

in Tumba, in the county of Cornwall, hath piously granted to the

aforesaid church, which is entrusted to the Angelical Ministry, and

with full approbation, consecrated and sanctified, to remit to all the

_faithful_, who shall _enrich_, _endow_, or _visit_ the said church,

a _third part_ of their _Penance_, and that this grant may remain for

ever unshaken and inviolable, by the authority of God the Father, and

of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, he forbids all his Successors from

attempting to make any alteration against this Decree."

We learn from the same author, that in order to encrease, as much as

possible, the influx of votaries to the shrine, the above decree was

placed publicly on the gates of the church, and enjoined to be read in

other churches.

When the Normans came in, Robert Earl of Morton and Cornwall became the

patron of this religious house, erected buildings, and gave some lands,

but from a superior affection for Normandy, he abridged its liberties,

and annexed it to the monastery of _Saint Michael de periculo Maris_,

on the coast of Normandy, to which situation the Mount is said to bear

a striking resemblance; from this time, it became only a cell dependant

upon, and subordinate to that foreign priory. As these Monks were of

the reformed order of Benedictines, and of the Gilbertine kind, a

nunnery was allowed in their vicinity; this they would make us believe

was done with no other view, than to shew the triumph of faith over

the impulse of sense, but it certainly must be confessed, to speak

even most charitably of it, that such an union amid the sequestration

of solitude, carries a strange appearance with it to our protestant

suspiciousness. The remains of this convent, we have already said,

were removed by the late proprietor, and the _New Buildings_, as they

are called, erected on their site; from the appearance of the carved

fragments of stone, and other marks of architectural distinction,

found among the ruins, the Nunnery appears to have been by far the

most costly and magnificent part of the edifice, the result we presume

of _Monkish gallantry_. Its establishment appears to have terminated

at the time Pomeroy surprised it, (an account of which transaction is

recorded under the military history,) but the Priory continued a cell

to Saint Michael's in Normandy, until that connection was destroyed,

and all the alien priories were seized in the reign of Edward the Third.

Henry the Sixth granted this Priory to King's College, Cambridge, but

it was afterwards transferred by Edward the Fourth to the nunnery of

Sion, Middlesex; and so it continued until the general dissolution;

at which period its revenues were valued at £110:12s. per annum, a

considerable sum at that time, especially as the number of Monks

maintained on the foundation never exceeded six; this sum, together

with the government of the Mount, which was then a military post, was

bestowed on Hugh Arundel, who was executed for rebellion in the year

1548. On his death it was demised to John Milliton of Pengersick, Esq.,

to William his son, and further to William Harris, Esq. of Hayne in

Devonshire, connected by marriage with the family of Milliton. Queen

Elizabeth, by Letters Patent, in the 29th year of her reign, demised

it to Arthur Harris[32] of Kenegie, Esq. a younger son of the above

William Harris, for life. It is in the Patent (which recites the former

grants to the Millitons) described as in the note[33] below. Arthur

Harris was about this time appointed Governor of the Mount, and held

that appointment until his decease in 1628. It was then granted, it

is supposed, in trust for the Earl of Salisbury, from whom it passed

to Francis Bassett, Esq. who being imprisoned by the usurping powers

in the reign of Charles the First, was obliged in order to purchase

his liberty to part with it to John St. Aubyn, Esq. in whose family

it now remains. The present Baronet seldom visits it, a circumstance

universally regretted, for no gentleman better understands how to

grace the venerable seat with Knightly dignity and splendor: Sir John

too is a zealous mineralogist, and might by his presence in Cornwall

contribute essentially to the progress of that science; in one respect

his absence is fortunately supplied by the vigilance of his agents, and

every geologist ought to feel obliged to them, we allude to the care

with which they protect the picturesque and mineralogical beauties of

the rocks by opposing the sacrilegious removal of any part of them.

MILITARY HISTORY.--From the time of King Edward the Confessor, to

the middle of the reign of Richard the First, the Mount appears to

have been exclusively the sacred nursery of religion; the earliest

transaction of a military nature was during the captivity of Richard

the First, in Germany, when Henry de la Pomeroy, of Berry Pomeroy in

Devonshire, having stabbed a serjeant at arms who came to summon him

to appear for a heavy crime, fled into Cornwall, and cast himself upon

the protection of John, Earl of that province, who readily supplied him

with an armed force, for he was then aspiring to his brother's throne;

with this, Pomeroy went in disguise to the Mount, and under a pretence

of visiting his sister, who was in the nunnery, gained admission,

and treacherously reduced it to the service of the said John; upon

the return however of the King from imprisonment, he surrendered the

garrison on mercy, although, despairing himself of pardon, he soon

died, or as some say, caused himself to be bled to death; after this

event, the Prior and the Monks were restored to the full possession of

their cells, revenues, and chapel; a small garrison however was still

maintained, to defend it against the sudden invasion of enemies, and

in this condition, "manned out with carnal and spiritual soldiers,"

did the Mount remain for a space of 275 years, when another military

transaction occurred to disturb its repose. After the defeat of the

Lancastrians at Barnet, in the eighteenth year of Edward the Fourth,

John Vere, Earl of Oxford, one of the most zealous partisans, fled from

the field, set sail for Saint Michael's Mount, and having disguised

himself, together with a few attendants, in the habits of pilgrims,

obtained entrance, massacred the unsuspecting garrison, and seized the

fortress, which he valiantly defended for some time against the forces

of Edward, but was at length compelled to surrender. Sir John Arundel

de Trerice, Sheriff of Cornwall, at the command of the King, marched

thither with _posse comitatus_ to besiege it, but he fell a victim on

the sands, at its base, and lies buried in the chapel.

In King Henry the Seventh's reign, the Lady Catherine Gordon, wife of

Perkin Warbeck, the pretended son of Edward the Fourth, remained here

for safety, but after the flight of her husband, she was taken prisoner

by Giles, Lord Banbury, and carried before that King.

During the Cornish commotion in the reign of Edward the Sixth, many

of the superior families fled to the Mount for security, and were

besieged by the rebels, who took the plain at the bottom of the rock

by assault, at the time of low water, and afterwards the summit, by

carrying great trusses of hay before them to obstruct the defendants

sight, and deaden their shot. This situation, together with the fears

of the women, and the want of food, obliged the besieged to surrender.

During the civil contentions in the reign of Charles the First, the

fortifications of the Mount were so much increased, that the works were

styled "_impregnable and almost inaccessible_." The Parliament forces,

however, under the command of Colonel Hammond, reduced the place, and

liberated the Duke of Hamilton, who was there confined; a service

which the historians of that period represent as full of danger and

difficulty, and this was the last military transaction that occurred

upon this romantic spot. Several batteries were erected by government

during the late war, to command the western part of the bay, the

eastern being too shallow to allow the entrance of large vessels.

We cannot conclude this account of the Mount without observing, that

several antiquarians have considered it as the _Ictis_ of Diodorus,

whither the Greek merchants traded for Cornish Tin; the limits of

this work will not allow us to enter upon the discussion, but we

beg to refer the curious reader to an ingenious work, published by

_Sir Christopher Hawkins_,[34] and to _Dr. Maton's_ "Observations on

the Western Counties." It is curious, and satisfactory, that these

gentlemen should have arrived at the same conclusion upon the subject,

and by nearly the same train of reasoning, without any previous

communication with each other.

[Illustration: _Sancreet._]

FOOTNOTES:

[24] This Pier has lately been considerably enlarged at the expense

of Sir John St. Aubyn. The work was completed only in the last Summer

(1823), and will now admit vessels of five hundred tons burthen.

[25] Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, Vol. i.

p. 41.

[26] Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, Vol. ii.

p. 73.

[27] Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, Vol. ii.

p. 369.

[28] See MR. PHILLIPS'S "ELEMENTARY INTRODUCTION TO MINERALOGY." We

shall on all occasions refer to this work without reserve, as being

a book which is, or ought to be, in the hands of every scientific

traveller. Its copious catalogue of English _habitats_ renders it

extremely valuable.

[29] The mineralogist is apt to overlook these Topazes, or to

regard them as common _quartz crystals_, to which they bear a great

resemblance, until we inspect their prisms, which will rarely be found

to be six-sided; there is also another simple mark of distinction--in

the _quartz_ crystal the striated appearance on its surface is

horizontal, whereas on the _Topaz_ it is longitudinal.

[30] A _Drift_ is a trench or foss, cut in the ground to a certain

depth, resembling a channel dug to convey water to a mill wheel.

[31] Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, Vol. ii.

p. 56.

[32] Ancestor of William Arundel Harris Arundel, Esq. of Kenegie.

[33] "Firmam nrtsm sti michis ad montem in dco nro cornub ac tot illum

scit domu mansional sive capital messuag nrm vocat _Sainte Michaells

Mounte_ als dict _the Priorie of Sainte Michalls Mounte_ in dco com nso

cornub quondm menastr de Sion in com nro midd spectan & ptinen habendum

& tenendum ad tmnm & pr tmno vite natural ipsius Arthuri Harris.

Reddendo inde annuatim nob hered & successoribs nris viginti sex libras

tres decem solid et quatuor denar legalis monete Angel." &c.

[34] See Sir C. Hawkins's Tract on the Tin Trade of the ancients in

Cornwall, and on the _Ictis_ of Diodorus Siculus.

EXCURSION II.

TO THE LAND's END.--LOGAN ROCK, &c.

"The Sun beams tremble, and the purple light

Illumes the dark Bolerium;--seat of storms,

High are his granite rocks; his frowning brow

Hangs o'er the smiling ocean. In his caves,

Where sleep the haggard spirits of the storm,

Wild dreary are the schistose rocks around,

Encircled by the waves, where to the breeze

The haggard cormorant shrieks; and far beyond

Are seen the cloud-like islands, grey in mists."

_Sir H. Davy._