his stay there, ii. 72-180; iii. 166, 172;
remarks on site of, ii. 75;
on public security, ii. 76;
want of clocks, ii. 91;
cold of winter, ii. 93;
buildings, ii. 97;
comparison with Paris, ii. 133;
street life, ii. 146;
pleasures of sojourn, ii. 161, 164
Ronciglione, ii. 69
Rovere, i. 187-193
Rovigo, ii. 31-33
Running at the ring, ii. 110
Rynach, Claude de, i. 50
Sainte Beuve, i. 2
Santa Rotonda (Pantheon), ii. 156; iii. 114
Sarrezana (Sarzana), iii. 178, 179
Savoy, Duke of, i. 82, 94; iii. 192
Scenery, Montaigne’s delight in, i. 14, 157, 158; ii. 191-193
Schaffhausen, i. 91-96
Sculpture, i. 11;
at Florence, ii. 48;
at Tivoli, ii. 170-171
Sea sickness, ii. 19_n_
Secretary, Montaigne’s, i. 7, 22;
takes on luggage by water to Augsburg, i. 125;
is left at Rovere, i. 192;
takes on luggage to Verona, i. 193;
goes on in advance from Battaglia, ii. 26;
makes a bargain for rooms at Florence, ii. 50;
finishes his work as amanuensis, ii. 110
Sens, Cardinal of, ii. 85-88; iii. 170
Shooting grounds, i. 92, 134
Sibyl, temple of, ii. 174
Siena, ii. 60-65; iii. 99, 152, 174
Silvester II. (Pope), ii. 142-144
Sinigaglia, iii. 5-7
Sirleto, Card., ii. 121
Sistine Chapel, ii. 113
Snakes, iii. 59, 60
Spanish homage for Portugal, ii. 137
Spoleto, ii. 184, 185
Standards, captured French, at Florence, i. 8; ii. 48
Straw plaiting, iii. 26, 30
Strozzi, P., i. 31; ii. 48; iii. 165;
family, i. 51; iii. 97, 98
Switzerland, i. 60-96;
politics of, i. 82;
customs, i. 83-85
Table fare, i. 107, 109, 148; ii. 49, 110, 134, 135;
service, i. 70-73, 84, 85, 102, 126, 131, 148; ii. 49; iii. 31
Tacitus, i. 80
Tasso, i. 21; ii. 36, 37_n_
Terelle, J., i. 30
Terni, ii. 184
Theatre, ii. 38
Theology, i. 65, 88, 106, 113, 114
Tillianus, T., i. 121
Tirol, i. 155-192;
riches of, i. 177
Tivoli, i. 9; ii. 166-174; iii. 106, 163
Travel, cost of, i. 110-112, 152; ii. 208; iii. 2, 93;
pleasure of, i. 17, 172-175, 188-190
Tree cultivation, i. 93
Trent, i. 113, 180, 186
Treves, Gilles de, i. 40
Trevi, ii. 189
Turin, iii. 193, 194
Urbino, iii. 12-17;
Duke of, iii. 5, 8, 9, 19, 21
Vasari, i. 10; ii. 52_n_
Vatican, ii. 94;
library, ii. 117-122
Vaucouleur, i. 41
Velabrum, ii. 99
Venice, ii. 14-18;
suspicious policy of, ii. 15;
revenues, _ib._;
cost of living, ii. 18;
explanation of his short stay there, ii. 23;
comparison with Rome, ii. 164
Verona, i. 193-195; ii. 1-6;
arena, ii. 4
Veronica Franca, ii. 16-17
Veronica, S., ii. 150, 151
Vicenza, ii. 7-9
Virgil, ii. 121, 189
Viterbo, ii. 68; iii. 157-162, 173
Vitri le François, i. 35-39
Volto Santo, iii. 149
Water, fraudulent sale of at Lucca, iii. 74, 75;
music, ii. 168, 169;
works, i. 9, 98, 127, 135, 141, 168-170; ii. 56, 57, 167-173;
iii. 106
Well, curious, i. 148
Welser, Philippina, i. 163_n_; iii. 187_n_
Whooping cough, i. 26_n_
Wine, i. 149, 178; ii. 8, 9; iii. 83, 105, 107;
gifts of, i. 57, 62, 94; iii. 90
Wood work, iii. 121, 122
Zwingli, i. 88, 106, 113, 122
THE END
Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO
Edinburgh & London
FOOTNOTES:
[1] The cathedral. It stands on the summit of Monte Guasco above the
harbour, and is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Venus. Its
present design is attributed, on doubtful authority, to Margaritone of
Arezzo. Montaigne’s statement about the relics is hardly borne out by
the existing collection, which is of the ordinary character: bits of
the wood of the cross, nails, spear-heads, &c.
[2] Ἀγκώυ, an elbow.
[3] This inscription is no longer in existence. The church referred to
is S. Maria di Porta Cipriana, in which the Greek rite was allowed by
Clement VII. in 1524.
[4] Francesco Maria II. (Della Rovere).
[5] Secretary to Paul de Foix, the French ambassador at Rome.
[6] These remarks apply exactly to Fano at the present day.
[7] It was erected in honour of Augustus and enlarged by Constantine.
It was dedicated to each of these Emperors. The attic portion, built
by Constantine, was almost ruined during the assault of the city by
Federigo da Montefeltro in 1463.
[8] Probably the Villa Imperiale, built by Leonora Gonzaga, wife of
Francesco Maria I. (della Rovere). It is now in ruins.
[9] Livy, xxviii. 48. The battle was fought B.C. 207.
[10] The ancient city, Forum Sempronii, is supposed to have stood about
a mile farther towards Fano. It was ruined by the Goths and Lombards.
[11] Caius Edius Verus. A statue in his honour was erected by the
people of Forum Sempronii. The pedestal referred to by Montaigne is now
in the Passionist Library. (A.)
[12] Giulio, the son of Francesco Maria I. (della Rovere) and Eleanora
Gonzaga. He was born in 1533, and made a cardinal by Paul III. when
he was thirteen. He was at one time suspected of a leaning towards
heretical opinions. He was a munificent benefactor to Loreto, and
bequeathed to the shrine all his personal goods. He died at Fossombrone
in 1578, and lies buried in S. Chiara at Urbino.
[13] Sometimes written Gauno. Ariosto, c. xliii.:--
“Pel monte che il Metauro e il Gauno pende
Passa Apennino e più non eta a man dritto.”
[14] The pass of Furlo. An inscription at the north end records its
construction by the order of Vespasian. There is no trace of the
inscription in honour of Augustus which Montaigne mentions, but this
emperor was interested in the maintenance of the Flaminian Way. “And
that the Avenues on every side to the City might be more passable, he
took in hand himselfe to repaire the high way or Cawsie Flaminia, so
farre as to Ariminuum.” Suetonius, _Oct. Cæsar Aug._, c. 30 (Holland’s
trans.).
[15] The famous palace built for Duke Federigo di Montefeltro by
Luciano di Laurana and Baccio Pontelli. Castiglione, in “The Courtyer,”
agrees with Montaigne that the site of Urbino leaves something to be
desired: “The which for all it is placed emong hylles, and those not
so pleasaunt as perhappes some other that we behoulde in manye places”
(Hoby’s trans.). But seeing how appreciative Montaigne shows himself of
mountain scenery in other parts, it is strange that he should withhold
praise from the distant prospects from Urbino, which are particularly
grand and beautiful.
[16] This is a mistake. No ruler of Urbino ever bore this name; and the
palace was built by the great Federigo di Montefeltro, who became count
in 1444 and duke in 1474.
[17] Montaigne is again in error. The reigning duke was Francesco Maria
II. He was the great-great-grandson of Federigo, the builder of the
palace.
[18] Federigo and his son Guidobaldo I. were both Knights of the Garter.
[19] Oddantonio di Montefeltro. He was killed in a popular rising
in 1444, which was probably instigated by certain emissaries of
Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta of Rimini. There is no extant portrait
of him at Urbino. What Montaigne saw was probably the picture of the
“Flagellation,” in the sacristy of the Duomo, by Piero della Francesca,
on one side of which are three figures supposed to represent Oddantonio
and the evil counsellors sent by Malatesta to lead him to ruin. This
assumption is, however, entirely unfounded.
[20] Lucrezia d’Este, born in 1535 and married to the duke in 1570. She
spent almost all her time at the court of Ferrara. After her death her
husband married Livia della Rovere and had one son, Federigo Ubaldo,
but this youth died in his father’s lifetime in 1623, and the following
year Francesco Maria surrendered the duchy to Urban VIII.
[21] This portrait is almost certainly the one which is now in the
Uffizi at Florence. On the death of Francesco Maria della Rovere
in 1631, Claudia dei Medici, the widow of his son, returned to
Florence, and took with her several of the pictures from the palace
of Urbino--notably the portraits of Federigo di Montefeltro and the
Duchess Battista, by Piero della Francesca--and transferred them to the
Uffizi. The portrait of Pico probably went at the same time.
[22] Monte d’Elce. The monument referred to still exists, though
greatly defaced.
[23] Isabella, daughter of Guidobaldo II., married Niccolo Sanseverino,
Prince of Bisignano.
[24] _Petites reines du micarême._
[25] Le More’s seems to have been a Parisian _restaurant de luxe_.
“Chacun veut aujourd’hui aller diner chez Le More, chez Samson,
chez Innocent, chez Havart, ministres de volupté et de profusion,
et qui dans un royaume bien policé seroient bannis et chassés comme
corrupteurs des mœurs” (Baudrillart, _Hist. du Luxe_, iii. 506).
[26] Rabelais, i. 51, “un beau cabaret assez retirant a celluy de
Guillot en Amiens.” Motteux evidently misread the name, as he renders
it as “Will’s at Amiens.”
[27] Incisa.
[28] Petrarch was born at Arezzo, whither his family had fled during
the Bianchi and Neri troubles. They dwelt, however, at Incisa, and the
remains of the house are said still to exist. One of the walls bears a
tablet with the following inscription:--
Perche
Della casa paterna
di
FRANCESCO PETRARCH
Colpa di secoli ingrati
Meglio che dalle cure degli uomini
Rispettata dal tempo
Una memoria restasse
Antonio Brucalassi incisano
Correndo il giorno sesto d’Aprile
MDCCCXXXXII
Fra le antiche ruine
Consacrò questo marmo.
[29] Livy, xxii. 2-3.
[30] See vol. ii., p. 54.
[31] In Tuscany the art of straw-plaiting is a very old one, dating
from the thirteenth or fourteenth centuries. In the sixteenth it had
attained great importance in Signa and the adjacent villages. Francesco
Naldi and Domenico Michelacci, a Bolognese, were its chief promoters
and the pioneers of foreign trade. It now exists chiefly in Fiesole,
and though fallen off somewhat, is an important branch of industry.
[32] Cardinal Niccolò.
[33] Robert d’Anjou, Duke of Apulia. Prato came under his sway in 1313,
and in 1326 passed to his son Charles of Calabria. In 1350 the city was
sold to the Florentines for 17,500 gold florins. The statue no longer
exists. Montaigne again mistakes the lilies of Florence for those of
France.
[34] Poggio a Cajano. This villa was originally in possession of the
Cancellieri family of Pistoia, with whom originated the factions of the
Neri and Bianchi. It was rebuilt for Lorenzo dei Medici by Giuliano di
San Gallo, and decorated by Andrea del Sarto and Pontormo for Leo X. It
was the scene of the mysterious tragedy of Bianca Capello in 1587.
[35] _Villani Chron._, B. i. c. 5, 7, 30-38. According to Sallust, the
battlefield lies some twelve miles from Pistoia, but a modern column
with a commemorative inscription has been erected near the city.
[36] Brunetto Latini says (_Tesoro_, l. 37) that the place takes its
name from the pestilence which broke out after Catiline’s defeat.
[37] _Villani Chron._, B. viii. 37.
[38] In Tuscany the theory of the communal magistracy was, that it
should hold itself constantly at the service of the public. The
priors were not allowed to go to their own houses except in cases of
sickness. After midnight they might go out attended by one or other of
their servants. They might not follow any trade or calling, or attend
weddings or funerals, or take their meals apart. Neither Gonfaloniere
nor priors might leave the city; they must remain all day long in the
palace, where all games, except chess, were forbidden.
[39] Lucca was at this time in the Spanish interest. It remained an
independent city until the French occupation in 1799. Fynes Moryson,
writing about twelve years after Montaigne, says: “The citizens of
Lucca are as afrayd of this great Duke [of Florence] as Partridges of a
hawke, being compassed with his territories on all sydes.” _Itinerary_
(Lond. 1903).
[40] That is, soldiers from other parts of Italy.
[41] The silk manufacture of Lucca goes back beyond all record. In the
time of Castruccio Castracane a large number of citizens, offended at
his usurpation, emigrated to other Italian cities and took their art
with them. It was thus that the art of brocade-making was introduced
into Florence.
[42] _Essais_, ii. 37: “À cette cause j’ay choisi jusques à cette
heure, à m’arrester et à me servir de celles où il y avoit plus
d’amœnité de lieu, commodité de logis, de vivres et de compagnies,
comme sont en France, les bains de Banieres: en la frontiere
d’Allemaigne et de Loraine, ceux de Plombières: en Souysse, ceux de
Bade: en la Toscane, ceux de Lucques: et specialement ceux _Della
Villa_, desquels j’ay usé plus souvent, et à diverses saisons.”
[43] A tributary of the Serchio, which rises near Pistoia.
[44] In earlier times the season used to begin on the first Friday in
March, when, according to tradition, an angel descended and blessed the
springs.
[45] Montaigne speaks of the douche as an Italian speciality. “Comme
les Allemans ont de particulier, de se faire generalement tous corneter
et vantouser, avec scarification dans le bain: ainsi ont les Italiens
leur _doccie_, qui sont certaines gouttières de cette eau chaude,
qu’ils conduisent par des cannes, et vont baignant une heur le matin,
et autant l’après disnée, par l’espace d’un mois, ou la teste, ou
l’estomach, ou autre partie du corps, à laquelle ils ont affaire”
(_Essais_, ii. 37).
[46] Montaigne held La Boetie in the highest esteem. “Et le plus grand
que j’aye cogneu au vif, je dis des parties naturelles de l’ame, et le
mieux né, c’estoit Estienne de la Boetie.”--_Essais_, ii. 17, and in
ii. 27 he again writes at length in praise of his lost friend.
[47] “De acquis lucensibus, quæ vulgo Villenses appellantur,” by G. B.
Donati. The author was a physician of Lucca, who studied at Pisa and
Padua. Franciotti, also a Lucchese doctor, wrote a treatise, “Tractatus
de Balneo Villensi in Agro Lucensi posito.”
[48] From this point the Journal is written in Italian.
[49] This spring had only recently come into fashion. It had always
been used by the country people for skin diseases, and about the middle
of the sixteenth century it acquired great fame through the cure of a
certain Pistoian of a loathsome skin disease which had been treated
ineffectually at every other spring. There are many springs on this
range of hills: Corsena, Bagno Rosso, Bagno di S. Giovanni, Bagno della
Villa, Bagno di Bernabo, and Bagno Cardinali.
[50] Ascension Day.
[51] The inscription at the Bagno alla Villa runs as follows: “Sacri
de villa balnei hec precipue sunt virtutes. Confert cunctis capitis
membris. Curat omnes stomachi morbos. Appetitum excitat. Digestionem
procurat. Vomitum restringit. Sanat cuncta epatis vitia. Epatis et
venarum opilationem aperit. Colorem optimum facit. Confert passionibus
splenis. Sanat ulcera pulmonis. Mundat renes. Lapidem minuit. Arenulas
prohibit. Macros impinguat. Lepram curat non confirmatam. Bibita
antiquas febres expellit. Et matricis etiam anterius cristerizata.
Triginta balneantur diebus. Octo vel decern bibitur purgatione
premissa. A contrariis caveatur. Toto corpore ulcera sanat.”
[52] In 1160 Guelf VI. of Este, the uncle of Barbarossa, sold his
rights over Lucca to the citizens, who agreed to pay by their consuls
1000 soldi yearly for ninety years, and this compact was confirmed
by Barbarossa. In 1197 Lucca joined Florence against the Empire, and
in the tumult which followed Lucca was subject to various tyrants,
Castruccio Castracane, Visconti, and Spinola. Its liberties were
restored by Charles IV. in 1369. In 1392 the Giunigi family, under the
patronage of Gian Galeazzo Visconti, became despots, but after Gian
Galeazzo’s death the republican form was restored, which lasted till
1795. The Council consisted of 120 councillors and 40 surrogates. The
democracy seems always to have been a limited one, and the institution
of a Golden Book gradually reduced the number of citizens eligible as
councillors.
[53] M. de Mattecoulon.
[54] Montaigne had little belief in the medicine of his time. “De
mesme, en la Medecine, j’honore bien ce glorieux nom, sa proposition,
sa promesse, si utile au genre humain: mais ce qu’il designe entre
nous, je ne l’honore, ny ne l’estime. En premier lieu l’experience
me le fait craindre: car de ce que j’ay de cognoissance, je ne voy
nulle race de gens si tost malade, et si tard guerie que celle qui
est sous la jurisdiction de la Medecine. Leur santé mesme est alterée
et corrompue, par la contrainte des régimes. Les Médecins ne se
contentent point d’avoir la maladie en gouvernement, ils rendent la
santé malade pour garder qu’on ne puisse en aucune saison eschaper leur
authorité.”--_Essais_, ii. 37.
[55] This is in direct contradiction to the statement on p. 61.
[56] This cardinal had been sent into France during the religious wars.
Pius V. made him a cardinal in 1570, and the reigning Pope had sent him
as legate to Bologna, where he executed many public works. He died in
1586.
[57] A few sentences further on Montaigne seems to imply that the title
of minister was only given to the Provincials of the Franciscan order.
[58] Menabbio.
[59] _Essais_, iii. 5: “Si elles ne nous peuvent faire du bien que
par pitié: j’ayme bien mieux ne vivre point, que de vivre d’aumosne.
Je voudrois avoir droit de le leur demander, au stile auquel j’ay veu
questu en Italie: _Fate ben per voi._”
[60] It is possible that Montaigne is here mistaken as to the
significance of this heraldic device. The fish probably has reference
to the name of the town. His frequent recognition of the lilies as the
ensign of France instead of Florence has already been noticed.
[61] This spring was celebrated as early as 1370, accommodation for
bathers having been built by the Florentines in that year.
[62] See vol. ii., p. 54.
[63] The festival of S. John Baptist. Cambiagi in _Memorie storiche_,
and Guasti in _Le feste di S. Giovanni Battista_, have written at
length concerning this feast.
[64] These races were instituted by Cosimo I. in 1563, and were held in
the Piazza S. Maria Novella.
[65] Ferdinand, who afterwards became Grand Duke in 1588.
[66] The effigy of the mule still exists. The verses run:--
“Lecticam, lapides et marmora, ligna, columnas
Vexit, conduxit, traxit, et ista tulit.”
[67] Montaigne describes this statue in vol. ii., p. 58.
[68] Montaigne questioned this right on the occasion of his first visit
(vol. ii., p. 54).
[69] Probably the house which at one time stood in the Via Larga.
[70] This was first published in Italian by the Giunti in 1573. Manni,
in his “History of the Decameron” (1742), professed to give a version
taken from the rough draft of another will which Boccaccio had made
in 1365. In 1859 Milanesi published the original Latin version from
the document itself, which is in the possession of the Bichi-Borghese
family in Siena.
[71] The name is certainly Greek. Empoli was the scene of the famous
parliament of the Ghibellines in 1260, when, after the battle of the
Arbia, the proposal to rase Florence to the ground was defeated by the
opposition of Farinata degli Uberti.
“Poi ch’ebbe sospirando il capo scosso,
A ciò non fu’io sol (disse) nè certo
Senza cagion sarei con gli altri mosso;
Ma fu’ io sol colà, dove sofferto
Fu per ciascuno di tôr via Fiorenza,
Colui, che la difese a viso aperto.”
DANTE, _Inferno_, x.
[72] Montaigne refers to this matter, _Essais_, iii. 13, where he lets
fall a remark which throws some fresh light upon it. “Je disnerois sans
nape, mais à l’Alemande, sans serviette blanche, très-incommodément;
je les soüille plus qu’eulx et les Italiens ne font; et m’ayde peu
de cullier et de fourchette. Je plains qu’on n’aye suivy un train,
que j’ay veu commencer à l’exemple des Roys: Qu’on nous changeast de
serviette, selon les services, comme d’assiette.” He seems to have
favoured the saying, “Fingers were made before forks.”
[73] Le antiche iscrizioni del Duomo di Pisa.--C. Lupi (Pisa, 1877).
[74] These are still to be seen at the back of the apse.
[75] The Baptistery.
[76] It is probable that Montaigne had heard the story (told in
Varchi’s _Storia Fiorentina_) how Lorenzino had broken off the heads
of some of the statues on the Arch of Constantine at Rome, and had
shifted the scene of the outrage to Pisa. For this offence Lorenzino
was impeached by Molza before the Roman Academy. The Pisan version
is alluded to by the local historians, Roncioni and Morrona; the
last-named refuses to accept it.
[77] The Pantheon.
[78] Giulio, natural son of Alessandro. There was an attempt to put him
in his father’s place, but by Guicciardini’s influence Cosimo became
duke. Giulio enjoyed Cosimo’s favour, and died in 1600.
[79] Smollett repeats the same story in almost the same words:
“Travels,” Letter xxvii.
[80] Montaigne often confuses the Florentine lilies with the arms of
France, but in this case he seems to be right.
[81] This palace is now the Opera del Duomo. The sculpture has
disappeared and only the French device remains. The inscription
referred to by Montaigne was renewed in 1695 by Giulio Gaetani:
“Ædile Joanne Mariani Christianiss. Gallorum Hierusalem
et Siciliæ--Citra forum Rex Carolus VIII. in his--Divæ
Matris Ædibus idus Novemb.:--1485 ex insperato
comedit--Pisanæ libertatis argumentum nunquam--Tantam
Magnus Alexander liberalitatem--Ostendit.”
[82] These ruins are now called the Baths of Nero.
[83] San Michele in Borgo. The church, which was built by Niccolo
Pisano, shows no trace of Roman work.
[84] San Pietro in Grado. It probably dates from the tenth century, and
is built of ancient fragments. The tradition is that S. Peter landed
here and built the church.
[85] Third son of Cosimo I. He murdered his wife, Eleanora of Toledo,
who was so frequently painted by Bronzino. He died in 1604.
[86] Dante, _Inferno_, xxxiii., alludes to the position of these
islands--
“Muovansi la Capraia e la Gorgona,
E faccian siepe ad Arno in su la foce
Si ch’ egli annieghi in te ogni persona.”
[87] Leonardo da Vinci, in his “Treatise on Botany,” makes similar
remarks as to the rings in timber and the effect of a north aspect on
the character of the wood.
[88] There is a reference to this visit, _Essais_, i. 25: “Je vis
privément à Pise un honeste homme, mais si Aristotelicien, que le
plus general de ses dogmes est: Que la touche et regle de toutes
imaginations solides, et de toute verité, c’est la conformité à la
doctrine d’Aristote: que hors de là, ce ne sont que chimeres et
inanité: qu’il a tout veu et tout dit. Cette sienne proposition, pour
avoir esté un peu trop largement et uniquement interpretée, le mit
autrefois, et tint longtemps en grand accessoire à l’inquisition à
Rome.” Borro was born at Arezzo, and appointed Professor of Philosophy
at Pisa in 1553. After divers prosecutions by the Inquisition, he was
finally dismissed in 1586, and died at Perugia in 1592.
[89] Jacopo and not Pietro Paulo. He was Archbishop of Pisa from 1574
to 1575.
[90] Tommaso Cornacchini, a famous Aretine physician. He was Professor
of Medicine at Pisa, and died there in 1584. His works were published
after his death by his sons Oragio and Marco (Padua 1605, Venice 1607).
Marco was also a distinguished physician and the inventor of the
_Polvere cornacchina_.
[91] Now known as Casciana.
[92] Some remains of a Roman bath still exist in Pisa itself close to
the Porta a Lucca, and are called Bagno di Nerone. Montaigne probably
confuses the two places. The baths which he here describes are still
in use, and are the same as were known in ancient times as Aquæ Calidæ
Pisanorum.
[93] Old form of _schifiltà_--squeamishness.
[94] Montaigne writes somewhat in the same strain in _Essais_, ii. 6,
and gives an apology for suicide, ii. 3.
[95] “Messieurs de Bordeaux m’esleurent Maire de leur ville, estant
esloigné de France, et encore plus esloigné d’un tel pensement. Je m’en
excusay. Mais on m’apprint que j’avois tort, le commandement du Roy
s’y interposant aussi” (_Essais_, iii. 10). Sainte Beuve (_Nouveaux
Lundis_, vol. vi.) has an article, _Montaigne maire de Bordeaux_.
[96] This chapel, the masterpiece of Matteo Civitali, was erected in
1484. The Volto Santo di Lucca is an ancient carved crucifix of cedar
which, according to legend, was brought to the city in 782.
[97] S. Frediano.
[98] A bath in Gascony. Montaigne alludes to it in vol. ii., p. 24.
[99] Probably the fruit of the zizzolo (_Ziziphus vulgaris_).
[100] The Bagni di S. Paolo.
[101] A house built by Nicolas V. out of the ruins of an ancient bath,
the Bagno della Crociata.
[102] This is the spring of Bulicame to which Dante alludes, _Inferno_,
xiv.:--