continuous downpour, it was not muddy, the soil being sandy. At the
end of eighteen miles we dined at Buffalora, and then crossed the
river Naviglio, a narrow stream, but deep enough to allow the passage
of large barges to Milan. Shortly afterwards we crossed the Ticino
by boat, and twelve miles farther on reached Novara in time for bed.
This is a small town standing on a level plain in the midst of woods
and vineyards and fertile fields. We left it next morning, and after
going ten miles we halted a little to feed our cattle at Vercelli,
a town under the Duke of Savoy, situated on level ground beside
the Zeza,[128] which we crossed in a boat. The aforesaid duke, by
employing a vast number of men, has built a fort in a very short space
of time--a fine strong place, as far as I could judge from seeing
only the outside--and has thereby raised the suspicion of his Spanish
neighbours. From this place we went through S. German and S. Giaco,
small villages, and, travelling all the way over a lovely plain, which
is especially fertile in walnuts--for here they have no olives but use
only walnut oil--we came, after a journey of twenty miles, to Livorno,
a small town with a good many houses, and there stayed the night.
We started early on Monday morning, and travelling over a level road
reached Chivas, ten miles distant, in time for dinner, and then onward
for ten miles more, crossing on the journey a great number of streams
by boat or by a ford, to Turin, whither we might easily have come in
time for dinner. This is a small city with much water round about it.
It is not very well built or agreeable, though, to be sure, rills of
water run through all the streets to keep them free from dirt. I here
hired horses at five crowns and a half each to take me as far as Lyons
in six days, the cost of the horses on the road to be included in this
charge. They speak French here usually, and were very friendly towards
us. The common language here has little else of Italian about it except
the pronunciation, most of the words used being French. We left Turin
on Tuesday, the last day of October, and dined at S. Ambrogio, two
posts farther on; and, after going the same distance over a narrow
level space between the mountains, we reached Susa, where we slept.
Susa is a large, populous town. I was here taken with a violent pain
in the right knee, a pain which I had felt for several days, and which
went on from bad to worse. The inns are better than in other parts of
Italy; good wine, bad bread, plenty to eat, such is the rule everywhere
in Savoy. After hearing mass on All Saints’ Day, I travelled one post,
as far as Novalese, where I hired eight _marroni_[129] to carry me in a
litter up to the top of Mont Senis and down on the other side.
* * * * *
Here French is spoken, wherefore I quit the use of the foreign
language, which I can employ easily enough, albeit somewhat
incorrectly, not having had the opportunity of giving due diligence
thereto through being always in the company of Frenchmen. I crossed
Mont Senis partly on horseback and partly in a litter borne by four
men, having others ready to relieve them. They carry the litters on
their shoulders. The ascent takes two hours, and is stony and difficult
for horses which are not accustomed to it, but otherwise without
difficulty or danger, for as the road is constructed on the mass of the
mountain, there are no precipices and no danger except of stumbling.
Below may be seen a plain two leagues long, and on it divers cottages,
lakes, and springs, and the post-house. There are no trees, but plenty
of grass and meadows to give pasturage in mild weather. At this season
snow lay over all. The descent is about a league, cut out of the rock
in a direct line, and I had myself carried down it by the _marrons_,
to whom I gave two crowns amongst the eight of them. The charge for
the descent is only one _teston_. It was a pleasant bit of sport, but
not one needing great courage. We dined at Lanebourg,[130] two posts
onward, a Savoyard village at the foot of the mountains, and slept in
a small place two leagues farther on. Everywhere we found abundance of
trout and excellent wine, both new and old. We started and travelled
five leagues over a rough, mountainous road, and dined at S. Michel,
where there is a post-house. Five leagues more brought us, late in the
day and wet through, to La Chambre, a little town which gives the title
of Marquis to a certain family, and there we slept.
On Friday, November the 3rd, we dined at Aiguebelle, a well-built town,
four leagues, and slept at Montmelian, another four leagues farther
on. This is a town and fortress which stands on the top of a little
ridge rising out of a level plain between two lofty mountains. The
town stands at the base of the fort on the river Isère, which passes
by Grenoble, seven leagues distant. Here I began to appreciate the
excellence of the Italian oil, of which I was never conscious after
eating, but I found that the oil of these parts upset my stomach. Two
leagues on our road we halted to dine at Chamberi, the chief town of
Savoy, a fair busy little place situated at the foot of the mountains
at a spot where they recede and leave a fine level stretch of country.
Passing on we crossed the Mont du Chat, which is high, steep, and
rocky, but in no way dangerous or difficult, and in descending came
upon a large lake on which stands a castle called Bordeau, where they
make swords which enjoy a great reputation. After a journey of four
leagues we rested for the night at a little town called Hyene.
On Sunday morning we crossed the Rosne, which ran on our right-hand
side, after we passed the spot where the Duke of Savoy has built a
small fort in a narrow gorge of the rocks. Along one of these is a
narrow path at the end of which stands the fort aforesaid, not unlike
the one which the Venetians have built at Chiusa in a pass of the
Tirolese mountains. We rode seven leagues along the mountain valley,
and without halting came to S. Rambert, a small town in the valley
aforesaid.
In most of the Savoyard towns a brook runs through the centre, and in
the streets, facing either bank of the same, wide penthouses are set
in front of the houses, so that passengers are always protected from
the rain, albeit the shops are darkened by this usage. On Monday,
November the 6th, we left S. Rambert early in the morning. During my
stay there M. Francesco Cenami, a banker of Lyons, who had come there
on account of the plague, sent his nephew to convey to me his polite
greetings, and a present of some of his own wine. We were soon quite
clear of the mountains and began to enter the level French country. I
crossed the river Ain in a boat near the bridge of Chesai and rode six
leagues in one stretch to Monloel, a little town where there is much
going and coming. It is the last of the Duke of Savoy’s dominions. On
Tuesday, after dinner, I took horses and went on in two posts to Lyons,
where I slept. I was greatly pleased with the town, and on Friday I
bought of Joseph de la Sone three strong service horses, with fresh cut
tails, for two hundred crowns, having purchased on the previous day of
Malesieu a pacing horse for fifty crowns and another curtal nag for
thirty-three. On Saturday, Saint Martin’s Day, I had a sharp pain in
the stomach and kept my bed till midday. I felt disordered all day and
took no dinner and a very light supper. On Sunday, November the 10th,
Signor Alberto Giachinotti, a Florentine gentleman, who had already
shown divers courtesies to me, entertained me at dinner in his house,
and offered to lend me any money I might want, though he had never seen
me till now.
On Wednesday, November the 15th, I left Lyons after dinner, and, after
a journey of five leagues over a hilly road, arrived in time for
bed at Bordeliere, a village of one or two houses. Quitting this on
Thursday morning we traversed a fine level road, and, close to Fur, a
little town; we crossed the Loire in a boat, and passed the night at
L’Hôpital, a small walled town, after riding eight leagues. We left
this place on Friday morning, and went over a hilly road to Tiers,
six leagues distant, the day being rough and snowy, with a cruel
wind full in our faces. Tiers is a small town on the Allier, busy,
well-built, and populous, the chief industry being in paper-knives and
playing-cards. It stands equidistant from Lyons, St. Flour, Moulins,
and Puy. The nearer I got to my home the more tedious the journey
seemed; indeed, as far as concerned the reckoning of the days, the
distance from Chamberi to my home seemed a good half of the whole
journey from Rome. Tiers is a possession of the Bourbon family and is
now held by M. de Montpensier.[131] While I was there I went to see
cards made at the factory of one Palmier, a process which seems to
require as many workmen as any other fine handicraft. The common cards
cost only one sou, but the fine ones are sold for two caroli.[132] On
Saturday we crossed the rich plain of the Limaigne, and after passing
in a boat the Douze and the Allier, we arrived at Pont du Château,
having ridden four leagues.
The plague has been very bad in these parts, and I heard some
remarkable accounts thereof. The dwelling of the Seigneur of the town,
the manor-house of the Canillacs, was burnt so as to destroy the
pestilence with fire. The Seigneur aforesaid sent one of his men to
me with divers offers of service, and begged me to write to M. de Foix
on behalf of his son, who is going to Rome. On Sunday, November the
19th, I reached Clermont, two leagues distant, in time for dinner, and
I tarried there for the sake of my young horses. On Monday the 20th I
started in the morning, and on the heights of Pui de Dôme I passed a
stone, somewhat broad and flat. I had felt it all the morning and even
the day before with a slight pain in the kidneys. It was neither very
hard nor very soft.
As I passed by Pongibaut I went to pay my respects to Madame La
Fayette, and remained with her half-an-hour. This house has not the
beauty its reputation warrants, the site being ugly, the garden small
and angular, with paths raised some four or five feet, and beds sunk
and filled for the most part with fruit trees, the herbs being very
scanty. The sides of the sunk beds aforesaid are set with cut stone. It
snowed so fast, and the weather was so rough and cold, that nothing
was to be seen of the country. I reached Pont-a-Mar, seven leagues off,
and slept there. This is a small village, and while there I heard that
Monsieur and Madame du Lude were sojourning at a place two leagues
away. I slept that night at Pont Sarrant after riding six leagues.
As far as Limoges this road is badly furnished with inns, which,
however, give you tolerably good wine, but they are used only by
muleteers and couriers going to Lyons. My head was uneasy, the storms
and cold winds and rain were very bad for it; and in sooth it got its
fill of discomfort in this journey over a region where the winter is
sharper than anywhere else in France. On Wednesday, November 22, I
left Pont Sarrant in very bad weather, and, after passing by Feletin,
a well-built little town placed in a hollow surrounded by high hills
and now almost deserted on account of the recent pestilence, I stopped
the night at Chastein, a miserable little village, five leagues on the
road. Here I was forced to drink new unclarified wine, as no other was
to be had, and the next day went on five leagues farther to Saubiac,
which belongs to Monsieur de Lausun, thence to Limoges, where I stayed
all the Saturday, I bought a mule for ninety crowns of the sun,[133]
and paid in addition five crowns for maintenance of this mule from
Lyons to this place, having been hereby cheated out of four crowns, for
the cost of all the other horses for the same distance only amounted to
three crowns and two-thirds.
On Sunday, November the 26th, I left Limoges after dinner, and, after
riding five leagues, slept at Cars, where I found no one but Madame
de Cars at home. I slept on Monday night at Tivie--six leagues--on
Tuesday at Perigus--five leagues--on Wednesday at Mauriac--five
leagues--and on Thursday, St. Andrew’s, the last day of November, at
Montaigne[134]--seven leagues--having quitted this same spot on June
22, 1580, to go to La Fère, my journey having lasted seventeen months
and eight days.
INDEX
Abano, ii. 21, 23
Agriculture, ii. 186, 187, 191, 192; iii. 33, 84, 85
Aigues Caudes (Eaux Chaudes), i. 78; ii. 181; iii. 45
Ammianus Marcellinus, i. 64_n_
Amyot, J., ii. 126_n_
Ancona, iii. 1-4
Andelot, Sieur, i. 47, 48
Angelo, Mich., i. 11; ii. 49
Antiquities, classic, i. 91, 115; ii. 71, 98, 100, 128-131, 166,
185; iii. 7, 84, 118, 119
Appenino (statue), ii. 44, 47
Arabian physician, ii. 122
Arezzo, iii. 22, 123_n_
Ariosto, ii. 34; iii. 110
Artillery, ii. 164
Augsburg, i. 9, 129-150;
religious factions, i. 149
Austria, i. 74, 97, 123;
Don John of, ii. 127;
relations with Lucca, iii. 33
Baden, baths of, i. 77-91;
cost of living at, 89
Bagnaja, iii. 162, 165
Banieres (Bagnères de Bigorre), i. 55; ii. 39; iii. 33, 47, 79
Baptism, Lutheran, i. 132, 133
Barbotan, i. 78; ii. 28; iii. 45, 79
Bartholomew, S., i. 11; ii. 127_n_
Basle, i. 62-67;
religious discords, 65;
dissoluteness of women, 66
Baths at Rome, ii. 133, 134
Beaumont-sur-Oise, i. 25, 26
Beds, i. 103, 107, 130, 168, 188; ii. 31, 32; iii. 51
Bembo, P., ii. 10
Bernabo, spring of, iii. 56, 62, 88, 102
Bird-catching, iii. 136
Boccaccio, iii. 152;
his will, 107
Boetie, E. de la, iii. 53
Bologna, ii. 37-39;
factions at, 39; iii. 113
Bolsena, ii. 68
Books, confiscated, ii. 77;
restored, ii. 139;
censured, ii. 175, 176
Borro, Giov., iii. 123, 124, 128
Botzen, i. 177-179
Bracciolini, Poggio, i. 81
Brenner, pass of, i. 166-172
Brigandage, ii. 40, 187, 188; iii. 180
Brixen, i. 172
Bulicame, iii. 161
Bulletin of health, ii. 1, 33, 36, 73
Buoncompagno, Giac., ii. 84, 165;
Filippo, ii. 141_n_
Calvin, Calvinism, i. 65, 88, 106; iii. 87
Canals, ii. 28, 29
Capello, Bianca, ii. 52, 53_n_; iii. 28_n_
Capperonier, M., i. 22
Caprarola, i. 10; iii. 164
Caselis, M. de, i. 20, 41, 191; ii. 20
Casimir, Duke, i. 61
Catena, i. 21; ii. 89-91
Catholicism, latent, amongst the reformed, i. 85
Catiline, iii. 30
Cenis, Mont, iii. 195
Certaldo, iii. 152
Certosa, i. 11; iii. 190
Chaffousine (Fusina), ii. 13, 14, 18, 35
Chalons, i. 34
Charles V., i. 48, 97, 143, 167, 185
Chaumont-en-Bassigni, i. 36
Chimera, figure of, ii. 58; iii. 102
Circumcision, rite of, ii. 102-105
Clement VII. (Pope), i. 185
Clesio, Card., i. 182-186
Coaches of Roman nobility, ii. 146
Colleges in Rome, ii. 83
Colombin, S., ii. 8
Confraternities, ii. 151, 156
Cornacchini, T., iii. 127
Corsena, spring of, iii. 43-45
Coryat, T., i. 8, 18; ii. 10_n_
Courtenay, Earl of Devon, ii. 11_n_
Courtesans, i. 18; ii. 17, 18, 115, 146, 148, 160; iii. 105, 108
Crayfish, i. 71, 131, 187
D’Abein, M., ii. 79, 120, 123; iii. 168
Dancing, i. 139, 140;
school of, at Padua, ii. 10;
permitted by Lutherans, i. 121
Dante, iii. 109_n_, 161_n_
D’Arc, Jeanne, i. 41
D’Este, Alfonso, Duke of Ferrara, ii. 33, 34; iii. 15
D’Este, Card., ii. 25, 167_n_, 194
D’Estissac, M., i. 20, 25, 30, 58, 62, 75, 94, 191; ii. 33, 65, 80;
iii. 172
Divizia, Lucchese poet, iii. 72, 73
Donato, iii. 54, 88
Dowries to girls at Rome, ii. 161-162
Draining marshes, ii. 30, 31; iii. 123, 176
Duel, M. Mattecoulon’s, i. 20; iii. 172_n_
Elena, S., baths of, ii. 26-28
Empire, politics of, i. 85, 97;
unpopularity of the Emperor, i. 85
Empoli, iii. 109
Estienne, H., ii. 125
Etruscan writing, iii. 113
Excommunication, sentence of, ii. 148-150
Exorcism, ii. 111-113
Factions, French and Spanish, at Bologna, ii. 39;
at Lucca, iii. 163
Fano, iii. 6, 8
Farnese, Alessandro (Cardinal), ii. 178_n_; iii. 164
Faron, S., i. 28
Fencing, i. 134; ii. 10; iii. 103
Ferdinand of Tirol, i. 155, 159, 161, 162;
his sons, i. 163, 166; iii. 186, 187
Ferdinand I. (Emperor), i. 164, 167
Ferier, A. de, ii. 14
Ferrara, ii. 33-36
Ferries, i. 76; ii. 31, 32
Flaminian Way, ii. 181; iii. 10, 12
Flax, iii. 160
Fleur-de-lys, ii. 52; iii. 28, 117, 189
Florence, ii. 47-59; iii. 93-108;
want of culture in, ii. 59
Foix, M. de, ii. 141
Foligno, ii. 189
Fornovo, i. 8; iii. 183
Forum Romanum, ii. 98
Fossombrone, iii. 9
French popular in Tuscany, ii. 66
Fuggers, the, i. 23, 143, 186
Furlo, pass of, iii. 11, 12
Garda, lake of, i. 190-193
Gardens, at Augsburg, i. 140-143;
at Rome, ii. 159-160;
Petraja, ii. 54-55;
_see_ also “Tivoli” and “Pratolino” Gate, mechanical, at Augsburg,
i. 164-166
Germain, Mary, i. 21, 37-39
Germany, Montaigne’s liking of, i. 6, 7, 179, 188; ii. 9; iii. 65
Grammont, M. de, i. 26_n_
Greece, Montaigne’s project to visit, i. 188
Gregory XIII. (Pope), i. 10; ii. 67, 80-85, 88, 114, 138, 161, 162, 185
Grynæus, i. 64
Guillot’s at Amiens, iii. 23
Hadrian’s villa, ii. 171_n_, 173;
his palace at Pisa, iii. 113
Hala, i. 160, 165;
salt works, 161
Hannibal, iii. 25
Hasdrubal, iii. 9, 17
Hautoy, M. de, i. 191; ii. 65, 80
Helfenstein, Count of, i. 128
Henry II. of France, i. 10; iii. 165
Henry III. of France, ii. 13, 17_n_, 79_n_
Henry VIII. of England, ii. 119, 120
Heresy suspected in Montaigne’s writings, ii. 139, 140, 175, 176
Hildegarde, S., i. 119
Hosius, Card., ii. 177
Hottoman, F., i. 7, 64, 179
Huguenots, i. 119; ii. 97, 126, 149
Inns, charges at, i. 111;
deficiencies in, ii. 9, 49, 50; iii. 101, 111, 131, 190, 194
Innkeepers, knavery of, ii. 40, 41; iii. 182
Innsbruck, i. 158-166
Italian ladies wanting in beauty, ii. 49, 107; iii. 8
Janiculum, ii. 94
Janus, temple of, ii. 99_n_
Jesuates, ii. 3, 7, 35
Jesuits, i. 12, 127, 134, 149, 153, 165; ii. 196
Jews, ii. 5;
races in the Corso, ii. 106;
doctor consulted by Montaigne, iii. 174
Journal, Montaigne’s, discovery of, i. 2;
written in Italian, iii. 56;
again in French, iii. 195
Kempten, i. 115-123
Kitchens, i. 72, 73
Königsfelden, abbey of, i. 75, 76
La Fère, i. 25, 26_n_, 61; iii. 205
Le More’s, at Paris, iii. 23
Leonore, daughter of Montaigne, i. 173; iii. 198
Leopold of Austria, i. 76_n_
Lepers in Germany, i. 102
Lindau, i. 103-112
Livy, ii. 11, 21_n_; iii. 25
Lodgings, i. 89; iii. 39, 51, 101, 111;
badness of, at Florence, ii. 49, 50
Loreto, i. 10, 12, 13; ii. 196-209; iii. 147
Lovanella, its famous inn, iii. 23
Lucca, iii. 33-35, 132-138, 148-150;
military service in, iii. 46, 50, 63;
judicial system, iii. 74, 147
Lucca, baths of, iii. 37-92, 138-148;
peasants sceptical of the virtue of the waters, iii. 147;
plethora of apothecaries, iii. 39, 147
Lutherans, i. 97, 105, 113, 119, 131, 132
Lyons, iii. 200
Macerata, ii. 194
Magnus, S., i. 125
Maldonat, M., i. 32-34, 81; ii. 158
Mangot, M., ii. 124
Marriages, mixed, i. 136;
ceremony at the house of the Fuggers, i. 139
Marteau, M., i. 13; ii. 205
Massa, iii. 177
Mattecoulon, M., i. 20, 25, 191; ii. 65, 80; iii. 172
Maximilian I. (Emperor), i. 158;
his tomb, i. 163; ii. 213
Mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. 19; iii. 146, 167
Meaux, i. 25-31
Medici, Cath. dei, i. 10, 32, 64; ii. 141_n_; iii. 165
Medici, Cosimo I. (Grand
Duke), i. 48, 51; iii. 96, 114, 123, 179_n_
Medici, Ferd. dei (Card.), ii. 53, 78, 88, 149; iii. 102, 178_n_
Medici, Francesco dei (Grand Duke), ii. 48, 52, 63; iii. 21, 30,
95, 99, 101, 110, 173
Medici, Lorenzino dei, iii. 114
Medici, Piero dei, iii. 120
Milan, iii. 191, 192
Miracles, i. 147, 156;
Montaigne’s acceptance of, i. 13; ii. 205
Mirandola, Pico della, iii. 16
Montaigne, begins his journal, i. 25;
his liking for Germany, i. 7, 179, 188; ii. 9, 49; iii. 65;
his praise of stoves, i. 86, 94, 187;
honour done to him in Augsburg, i. 9, 136, 137;
his courage, i. 19; iii. 140;
conformity to local custom, i. 84, 138; ii. 70;
appreciation of good citizens, i. 183;
his habit of diet, i. 103;
partiality for Jesuits, i. 12; ii. 145, 146;
illnesses, i. 16, 54, 170; ii. 38, 100, 105, 134; iii. 25, 43,
131, 139, 141, 144;
incongruities of style, i. 23;
censure of irreligion, ii. 2;
recognition of the power of the Church, i. 15, 16;
acceptance of miracles, i. 13; ii. 205;
mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. 19; iii. 146, 167;
travel requisites forgotten, i. 109;
offended by the Archduke of Tirol, i. 162;
his philosophy of travel, i. 189, 190; iii. 134;
remarks on the site of Rome, i. 15; ii. 75, 95-100; iii. 170;
on its civil liberty, ii. 76;
on scenery, i. 14, 157, 158; ii. 191, 192; iii. 38;
fear of sea-sickness, ii. 19_n_;
pleasure of travel, i. 172-175;
patience under pain, i. 17; ii. 186;
fear of dew, i. 187; ii. 71;
wariness in choosing an inn, ii. 42;
resolves to revisit Venice, ii. 23;
leaves books at Padua, ii. 23;
dines with the Grand Duke of Florence, ii. 53;
with the Cardinal de Sens, ii. 85-88;
with the French Ambassador, ii. 123-126;
adverse criticism of Florence, ii. 54, 59;
does justice to it, iii. 105;
indifference to art, i. 10, 11;
excess of Frenchmen in Padua, ii. 10;
in Rome, ii. 74;
his books seized, ii. 77;
restored, ii. 139;
censured, ii. 175, 176;
his audience with the Pope, ii. 80-82;
discontent with guides, i. 90, 101; ii. 95;
attends a Jewish service, ii. 100, 101;
ceremony of circumcision, ii. 102-105;
public executions, ii. 111-113;
his remarks on Roman ladies, ii. 107, 108;
begins to write the journal himself, ii. 110;
comparison of Rome and Paris, ii. 133;
on Roman preaching, ii. 143-145;
on the salubrity of the climate, ii. 159;
on his superficial knowledge of the place, ii. 161;
grant to him of Roman citizenship, ii. 164-166;
visits the Vatican library, ii. 117, 122;
fixes an _ex voto_ at Loreto, ii. 198;
his remarks on the baths of Lucca, iii. 47, 54, 55, 78, 81, 147;
on the judicial system of the state, iii. 74;
on military service, iii. 50, 63, 132-138;
on medicine, iii. 77, 78, 147;
on democratic bearing, iii. 91;
gives a ball, iii. 67-74;
adopts party emblems, iii. 89;
sees an operation at Basle, i. 66, 67;
sees Boccaccio’s will, iii. 107;
a display of equitation, iii. 167;
a card factory, iii. 201;
returns to Rome, iii. 166;
leaves it finally, iii. 172;
impressions of Milan, iii. 191;
leaves his arms at Plombières, i. 55;
at Augsburg, i. 150;
in Lucca, iii. 144;
musical taste of the peasantry, iii. 110;
is begged to reside in Rome, ii. 176;
his purchases in Pisa, iii. 122;
leaves Milan, iii. 192;
crosses Mont Cenis, iii. 195;
leaves Lyons, iii. 200;
returns to Montaigne, iii. 205
Montefeltro, Federigo di, iii. 14, 15_n_, 16_n_;
Guidobaldo di, iii. 15_n_
Montirandet, i. 36;
strange case of a woman there, i. 36, 37
Moryson, Fynes, i. 8; ii. 15_n_, 17_n_; iii. 182_n_, 189_n_
Moscovite Ambassador at Rome, ii. 115, 117, 137
Mulhouse, i. 60;
the host at the “Grapes,” 61
Munich, i. 151, 153
Munster, Seb., i. 64, 110, 135_n_
Muret, Marc. Ant., ii. 123
Narni, ii. 183
Necessaries of travel, i. 109
Neufchasteau, i. 42, 43, 45
Ogier the Dane, i. 28, 29
Operation at Basle, i. 66, 67
Ostia, ii. 127, 130;
saltworks, 131
Padua, i. 11;
Frenchmen at, 5; ii. 9-13;
cost of living at, ii. 20
Palladio, ii. 7_n_
Paré, A., i. 21, 37_n_, 38, 39
Parma, iii. 183;
Duke of, iii. 185, 186
Paul III. (Pope), i. 11, 116; iii. 10_n_, 161, 165, 171
Pavia, iii. 187-190;
battle of, iii. 190
Peter’s, S., i. 11; ii. 78, 135, 149, 152, 155
Peter and Paul, SS., ii. 156, 157
Petraja (Castello), ii. 54-58; iii. 26
Petrarch, iii. 24
Petrino, ii. 188
Philosophy of Travel, i. 189-191
Piacenza, iii. 184-187
Piccolomini, S., iii. 103
Pietramala, ii. 43
Pilgrimage churches at Rome, ii. 138, 141
Pinitesi, L., iii. 90, 133, 137
Pisa, iii. 110-128;
baths of, 129, 131;
earth in Campo Santo, i. 14; iii. 116;
insalubrity of, iii. 123
Pistoia, iii. 29-31
Plater, F., i. 62, 64
Plommieres (Plombières), i. 45-55, 170, 187; iii. 79
Plutarch, ii. 118, 123-126
Poggio a Cajano, iii. 28, 29
Portuguese homage at Rome, ii. 135;
strange sect of fanatics, ii. 136
Posting, ii. 69, 70; iii. 2, 93
Poussay, i. 43, 56
Praie (Praglia), ii. 22
Prato, iii. 27, 28
Pratolino, i. 9; ii. 43, 45, 64, 170, 172; iii. 106
Provisions, table, i. 73, 74, 107, 109;
in Rome, ii. 134, 135;
Lucca, iii. 39-41
Prunis, M., i. 2
Quails, iii. 3
Quarrel with guide, i. 100, 101;
with vetturino, ii. 193; iii. 155;
of priests and friars at Pisa, iii. 126
Querlon, M., i. 22, 42_n_, 76_n_, 80_n_, 164_n_; ii. 205_n_
Races, ii. 106; iii. 96-98, 102
Rats, i. 138
Religious toleration, i. 16
Remiremont, i. 57;
strange tenure of land, _ib._;
nuns of, i. 58
Renegade, story of, iii. 48-50
Ricchieri, L., ii. 32
Riva, i. 191, 192
Roads, safety of, in Tirol, i. 169;
state of, in Lombardy, ii. 37;
in the mountains, ii. 41, 42, 68;
improved by Gregory XIII., ii. 183
Rohan, Duke of, i. 179_n_
Roland, i. 29_n_