_The =Cygnet= and her Crew on the Coast of =Nueva Galicia=, and
at the =Tres Marias Islands=._
[Sidenote: 1686. January. Coast of Nuevo Galicia.] Swan and his crew
determined before they quitted the American coast, to visit some Spanish
towns farther North, in the neighbourhood of rich mines, where they hoped
to find good plunder, and to increase their stock of provisions for the
passage across the _Pacific_ to _India_.
[Sidenote: Point Ponteque.] January the 7th, the Cygnet and her tender
sailed from the _Valley of Vanderas_, and before night, passed _Point
Ponteque_, the Northern point of the _Vanderas Bay_. _Point Ponteque_ is
high, round, rocky, and barren: at a distance it makes like an Island.
Dampier reckoned it 10 leagues distant, in a direction N 20 deg. W, from _Cape
Corrientes_; the variation of the compass observed near the _Cape_ being
4 deg. 28' Easterly[73].
A league West from _Point Ponteque_ are two small barren Islands, round
which lie scattered several high, sharp, white rocks. The Cygnet passed on
the East side of the two Islands, the channel between them and _Point
Ponteque_ appearing clear of danger. 'The sea-coast beyond _Point
Ponteque_ runs in NE, all ragged land, and afterwards out again NNW,
making many ragged points, with small sandy bays between. The land by the
sea is low and woody; but the inland country is full of high, sharp,
rugged, and barren hills.'
Along this coast they had light sea and land breezes, and fair weather.
They anchored every evening, and got under sail in the morning with the
land-wind. [Sidenote: January 14th. White Rock, 21 deg. 51' N.] On the 14th,
they had sight of a small white rock, which had resemblance to a ship
under sail. Dampier gives its latitude 21 deg. 51' N, and its distance from
_Cape Corrientes_ 34 leagues. It is three leagues from the main, with
depth in the channel, near the Island, twelve or fourteen fathoms.
[Sidenote: 15th. 16th.] The 15th, at noon, the latitude was 22 deg. 11' N. The
coast here lay in a NNW direction. The 16th, they steered 'NNW as the land
runs.' At noon the latitude was 22 deg. 41' N. The coast was sandy and
shelving, with soundings at six fathoms depth a league distant. The sea
set heavy on the shore. They caught here many cat-fish.
[Sidenote: 20th. Chametlan Isles, 23 deg. 11' N.] On the 20th, they anchored a
league to the East of a small groupe of Isles, named the _Chametlan
Isles_, after the name of the District or Captainship (_Alcaldia mayor_)
in the province of _Culiacan_, opposite to which they are situated.
Dampier calls them the _Isles of Chametly_, 'different from the _Isles_ or
_Keys of Chametly_ at which we had before anchored. These are six small
Islands in latitude 23 deg. 11' N, about three leagues distant from the
main-land[74], where a salt lake has its outlet into the sea. Their
meridian distance from _Cape Corrientes_ is 23 leagues [West.] The coast
here, and for about ten leagues before coming abreast these Islands, lies
NW and SE.'
[Sidenote: The Penguin Fruit.] On the _Chametlan Isles_ they found
guanoes, and seals; and a fruit of a sharp pleasant taste, by Dampier
called the Penguin fruit, 'of a kind which grows so abundantly in the _Bay
of Campeachy_ that there is no passing for their high prickly leaves.'
[Sidenote: Rio de Sal, and Salt-water Lagune, 23 deg. 30' N.] In the
main-land, six or seven leagues NNW from the _Isles of Chametlan_, is a
narrow opening into a _lagune_, with depth of water sufficient for boats
to enter. This _lagune_ extends along the back of the sea-beach about 12
leagues, and makes many low Mangrove Islands. The latitude given of the
entrance above-mentioned is 23 deg. 30' N, and it is called by the Spaniards
_Rio de Sal_.
Half a degree Northward of _Rio de Sal_ was said to be the River
_Culiacan_, with a rich Spanish town of the same name. Swan went with the
canoes in search of it, and followed the coast 30 leagues from abreast the
_Chametlan Isles_, without finding any river to the North of the _Rio de
Sal_. All the coast was low and sandy, and the sea beat high on the shore.
[Sidenote: 30th.] The ships did not go farther within the _Gulf_ than to
23 deg. 45' N, in which latitude, on the 30th, they anchored in eight fathoms
depth, three miles distant from the main-land; the meridian distance from
_Cape Corrientes_ being 34 leagues West, by Dampier's reckoning.
[Sidenote: The Mexican, a copious Language.] In their return Southward,
Swan with the canoes, entered the _Rio de Sal Lagune_, and at an
_estancian_ on the Western side, they took the owner prisoner. They found
in his house a few bushels of maize; but the cattle had been driven out of
their reach. Dampier relates, 'The old Spanish gentleman who was taken at
the _Estancian_ near the _Rio de Sal_ was a very intelligent person. He
had been a great traveller in the kingdom of _Mexico_, and spoke the
Mexican language very well. He said it is a copious language, and much
esteemed by the Spanish gentry in those parts, and of great use all over
the kingdom; and that many Indian languages had some dependency on it.'
[Sidenote: Mazatlan.] The town of _Mazatlan_ was within 5 leagues of the
NE part of the _lagune_, and Swan with 150 men went thither. The
inhabitants wounded some of the Buccaneers with arrows, but could make no
effectual resistance. There were rich mines near _Mazatlan_, and the
Spaniards of _Compostella_, which is the chief town in this district,
kept slaves at work in them. The Buccaneers however found no gold here,
but carried off some Indian corn.
[Sidenote: February 2d. Rosario, an Indian Town.] February the 2d, the
canoes went to an Indian town called _Rosario_, situated on the banks of a
river and nine miles within its entrance. '_Rosario_ was a fine little
town of 60 or 70 houses, with a good church.' The river produced gold, and
mines were in the neighbourhood; but here, as at _Mazatlan_, they got no
other booty than Indian corn, of which they conveyed to their ships
between 80 and 90 bushels.
[Sidenote: 3d. River Rosario, 22 deg. 51' N. Sugar-loaf Hill. Caput Cavalli.]
On the 3d, the ships anchored near the _River Rosario_ in seven fathoms
oozy ground, a league from the shore; the latitude of the entrance of the
river 22 deg. 51' N. A small distance within the coast and bearing NEbN from
the ship, was a round hill like a sugar-loaf; and North Westward of that
hill, was another 'pretty long hill,' called _Caput Cavalli_, or the
_Horse's Head_.
[Sidenote: 8th.] On the 8th, the canoes were sent to search for a river
named the _Oleta_, which was understood to lie in latitude 22 deg. 27' N; but
the weather proving foggy they could not find it.
[Sidenote: 11th. Maxentelbo Rock. Hill of Xalisco.] On the 11th, they
anchored abreast the South point of the entrance of a river called the
_River de Santiago_, in seven fathoms soft oozy bottom, about two miles
from the shore; a high white rock, called _Maxentelbo_, bore from their
anchorage WNW, distant about three leagues, and a high hill in the
country, with a saddle or bending, called the _Hill Xalisco_, bore SE.
[Sidenote: River of Santiago, 22 deg. 15' N.] 'The _River St. Iago_ is in
latitude 22 deg. 15' N, the entrance lies East and West with the _Rock
Maxentelbo_. It is one of the principal rivers on this coast: there is ten
feet water on the bar at low-water; but how much the tide rises and falls,
was not observed. The mouth of the river is nearly half a mile broad, with
very smooth entering. Within the entrance it widens, for three or four
rivers meet there, and issue all out together. The water is brackish a
great way up; but fresh water is to be had by digging two or three feet
deep in a sandy bay just at the mouth of the river. Northward of the
entrance, and NEbE from _Maxentelbo_, is a round white rock.'
'Between the latitudes 22 deg. 41' and 22 deg. 10' N, which includes the _River de
Santiago_, the coast lies NNW and SSE[75].'
No inhabitants were seen near the entrance of the _River St. Iago_, but
the country had a fruitful appearance, and Swan sent seventy men in four
canoes up the river, to seek for some town or village. After two days
spent in examining different creeks and rivers, they came to a field of
maize which was nearly ripe, and immediately began to gather; but whilst
they were loading the canoes, they saw an Indian, whom they caught, and
from him they learnt that at four leagues distance from them was a town
named _S^{ta} Pecaque_. With this information they returned to the ship;
and the same evening, Swan with eight canoes and 140 men, set off for
_S^{ta} Pecaque_, taking the Indian for a guide. This was on the 15th of
the month.
[Sidenote: 16th.] They rowed during the night about five leagues up the
river, and at six o'clock in the morning, landed at a place where it was
about a pistol-shot wide, with pretty high banks on each side, the country
plain and even. Twenty men were left with the canoes, and Swan with the
rest marched towards the town, by a road which led partly through
woodland, and partly through savannas well stocked with cattle. They
arrived at the town by ten in the forenoon, and entered without
opposition, the inhabitants having quitted it on their approach.
[Sidenote: Town of S^{ta} Pecaque.] The town of _Santa Pecaque_ was small,
regularly built after the Spanish mode, with a Parade in the middle, and
balconies to the houses which fronted the parade. It had two churches. The
inhabitants were mostly Spaniards, and their principal occupation was
husbandry. It is distant from _Compostella_ about 21 leagues.
_Compostella_ itself was at that time reckoned not to contain more than
seventy white families, which made about one-eighth part of its
inhabitants.
There were large storehouses, with maize, salt-fish, salt, and sugar, at
_Santa Pecaque_, provisions being kept there for the subsistence of some
hundreds of slaves who worked in silver mines not far distant. The chief
purpose for which the Cygnet had come so far North on this coast was to
get provisions, and here was more than sufficient to supply her wants. For
transporting it to their canoes, Swan divided the men into two parties,
which it was agreed should go alternately, one party constantly to remain
to guard the stores in the town. The afternoon of the first day was passed
in taking rest and refreshment, and in collecting horses. [Sidenote:
17th.] The next morning, fifty-seven men, with a number of horses laden
with maize, each man also carrying a small quantity, set out for the
canoes, to which they arrived, and safely deposited their burthens. The
Spaniards had given some disturbance to the men who guarded the canoes,
and had wounded one, on which account they were reinforced with seven men
from the carrying party; and in the afternoon, the fifty returned to
_Santa Pecaque_. Only one trip was made in the course of the day.
[Sidenote: 18th.] On the morning of the 18th, the party which had guarded
the town the day before, took their turn for carrying. They loaded 24
horses, and every man had his burthen. This day they took a prisoner, who
told them, that nearly a thousand men, of all colours, Spaniards, Indians,
Negroes, and Mulattoes, were assembled at the town of _Santiago_, which
was only three leagues distant from _Santa Pecaque_. This information made
Captain Swan of opinion, that separating his men was attended with much
danger; and he determined that the next morning he would quit the town
with the whole party. In the mean time he employed his men to catch as
many horses as they could, that when they departed they might carry off a
good load.
[Sidenote: February 19th.] On the 19th, Swan called his men out early, and
gave order to prepare for marching; but the greater number refused to
alter the mode they had first adopted, and said they would not abandon the
town until all the provision in it was conveyed to the canoes. Swan was
forced to acquiesce, and to allow one-half of the company to go as before.
They had fifty-four horses laden; Swan advised them to tie the horses one
to another, and the men to keep in two bodies, twenty-five before, and the
same number behind. His directions however were not followed: 'the men
would go their own way, every man leading his horse.' The Spaniards had
before observed their careless manner of marching, and had prepared their
plan of attack for this morning, making choice of the ground they thought
most for their advantage, and placing men there in ambush. The Buccaneer
convoy had not been gone above a quarter of an hour when those who kept
guard in the town, heard the report of guns. Captain Swan called on them
to march out to the assistance of their companions; but some even then
opposed him, and spoke with contempt of the danger and their enemies, till
two horses, saddled, with holsters, and without riders, came galloping
into the town frightened, and one had at its side a carabine newly
discharged. [Sidenote: Buccaneers defeated and slain by the Spaniards.] On
this additional sign that some event had taken place which it imported
them to know, Swan immediately marched out of the town, and all his men
followed him. When they came to the place where the engagement had
happened, they beheld their companions that had gone forth from the town
that morning, every man lying dead in the road, stripped, and so mangled
that scarcely any one could be known. This was the most severe defeat the
Buccaneers suffered in all their _South Sea_ enterprises.
The party living very little exceeded the number of those who lay dead
before them, yet the Spaniards made no endeavour to interrupt their
retreat, either in their march to the canoes, or in their falling down the
river, but kept at a distance. 'It is probable,' says Dampier, 'the
Spaniards did not cut off so many of our men without loss of many of their
own. We lost this day fifty-four Englishmen and nine blacks; and among the
slain was my ingenious friend Mr. Ringrose, who wrote that part of the
_History of the Buccaneers_ which relates to Captain Sharp. He had engaged
in this voyage as supercargo of Captain Swan's ship.'--'Captain Swan had
been forewarned by his astrologer of the great danger they were in; and
several of the men who went in the first party had opposed the division of
their force: some of them foreboded their misfortune, and heard as they
lay down in the church in the night, grievous groanings which kept them
from sleeping[76].'
Swan and his surviving crew were discouraged from attempting any thing
more on the coast of _New Galicia_, although they had laid up but a small
stock of provisions. On the 21st, they sailed from the _River of St. Jago_
for the South Cape of _California_, where it was their intention to careen
the ship; but the wind had settled in the NW quarter, and after struggling
against it a fortnight, on the 7th of March, they anchored in a bay at the
East end of the middle of the _Tres Marias Islands_, in eight fathoms
clean sand. [Sidenote: March. At the Middle Island of the Tres Marias.]
The next day, they took a birth within a quarter of a mile of the shore;
the outer points of the bay bearing ENE and SSW.
None of the _Tres Marias Islands_ were inhabited. Swan named the one at
which he had anchored, _Prince George's Island_. Dampier describes them of
moderate height, and the Westernmost Island to be the largest of the
three. 'The soil is stony and dry, producing much of a shrubby kind of
wood, troublesome to pass; but in some parts grow plenty of straight large
cedars. [Sidenote: A Root used as Food.] The sea-shore is sandy, and
there, a green prickly plant grows, whose leaves are much like the penguin
leaf; the root is like the root of the _Sempervive_, but larger, and when
baked in an oven is reckoned good to eat. The Indians of _California_ are
said to have great part of their subsistence from these roots. We baked
some, but none of us greatly cared for them. They taste exactly like the
roots of our English Burdock boiled.'
At this Island were guanoes, raccoons, rabbits, pigeons, doves, fish,
turtle, and seal. They careened here, and made a division of the store of
provisions, two-thirds to the Cygnet and one-third to the Tender, 'there
being one hundred eaters in the ship, and fifty on board the tender.' The
maize they had saved measured 120 bushels.
[Sidenote: A Dropsy cured by a Sand Bath.] Dampier relates the following
anecdote of himself at this place. 'I had been a long time sick of a
dropsy, a distemper whereof many of our men died; so here I was laid and
covered all but my head in the hot sand. I endured it near half an hour,
and then was taken out. I sweated exceedingly while I was in the sand, and
I believe it did me much good, for I grew well soon after.'
This was the dry season, and they could not find here a sufficient supply
of fresh water, which made it necessary for them to return to the
Continent. Before sailing, Swan landed a number of prisoners, Spaniards
and Indians, which would have been necessary on many accounts besides that
of the scantiness of provisions, if it had been his design to have
proceeded forthwith Westward for the _East Indies_; but as he was going
again to the American coast, which was close at hand, the turning his
prisoners ashore on a desolate Island, appears to have been in revenge
for the disastrous defeat sustained at _S^{ta} Pecaque_, and for the
Spaniards having given no quarter on that occasion.
[Sidenote: Bay of Vanderas.] They sailed on the 26th, and two days after,
anchored in the _Bay of Vanderas_ near the river at the bottom of the bay;
but the water of this river was now brackish. Search was made along the
South shore of the bay, and two or three leagues towards _Cape
Corrientes_, a small brook of good fresh water was found; and good
anchorage near to a small round Island which lies half a mile from the
main, and about four leagues NEastward of the Cape. Just within this
Island they brought the ships to anchor, in 25 fathoms depth, the brook
bearing from them E-1/2N half a mile distant, and _Point Ponteque_ NWbN
six leagues.
The Mosquito men struck here nine or ten jew-fish, the heads and finny
pieces of which served for present consumption, and the rest was salted
for sea-store. The maize and salted fish composed the whole of their stock
of eatables for their passage across the _Pacific_, and at a very
straitened allowance would scarcely be sufficient to hold out sixty days.