_Adventures of =Swan= and =Townley= on the Coast of =New Spain=,
until their Separation._
[Sidenote: Swan and Townley.] The South Sea adventures of the buccaneer
Chief Davis being brought to a conclusion, the next related will be those
of Swan and his crew in the Cygnet, they being the first of the Buccaneers
who after the battle in the _Bay of Panama_ left the _South Sea_. William
Dampier who was in Swan's ship, kept a Journal of their proceedings, which
is published, and the manuscript also has been preserved.
[Sidenote: 1685. August.] Swan and Townley, the reader may recollect, were
left by Edward Davis in the harbour of _Ria Lexa_, in the latter part of
August 1685, and had agreed to keep company together Westward towards the
entrance of the _Gulf of California_.
[Sidenote: Bad Water, and Unhealthiness of Ria Lexa.] They remained at
_Ria Lexa_ some days longer to take in fresh water, 'such as it was,' and
they experienced from it the same bad effects which it had on Davis's men;
for, joined to the unwholesomeness of the place, it produced a malignant
fever, by which several were carried off.
[Sidenote: September. On the Coast of New Spain.] On September the 3d,
they put to sea, four sail in company, i. e. the Cygnet, Townley's ship,
and two tenders; the total of the crews being 340 men.
[Sidenote: Tornadoes.] The season was not favourable for getting Westward
along this coast. Westerly winds were prevalent, and scarcely a day passed
without one or two violent tornadoes, which were accompanied with
frightful flashes of lightning, and claps of thunder, 'the like,' says
Dampier, 'I did never meet with before nor since.' These tornadoes
generally came out of the NE, very fierce, and did not last long. When
the tornado was passed, the wind again settled Westward. On account of
these storms, Swan and Townley kept a large offing; but towards the end of
the month, the weather became settled. On the 24th, Townley, and 106 men
in nine canoes, went on Westward, whilst the ships lay by two days with
furled sails, to give them time to get well forward, by which they would
come the more unexpectedly upon any place along the coast.
[Sidenote: October.] Townley proceeded, without finding harbour or inlet,
to the Bay of _Tecuantepeque_, where putting ashore at a sandy beach, the
canoes were all overset by the surf, one man drowned, and some muskets
lost. Townley however drew the canoes up dry, and marched into the
country; but notwithstanding that they had not discovered any inlet on the
coast, they found the country intersected with great creeks not fordable,
and were forced to return to their canoes. A body of Spaniards and Indians
came to reconnoitre them, from the town of _Tecuantepeque_, to seek which
place was the chief purpose of the Buccaneers when they landed. 'The
Spanish books,' says Dampier, 'mention a large river there, but whether it
was run away at this time, or rather that Captain Townley and his men were
shortsighted, I know not; but they did not find it.'
October the 2d, the canoes returned to the ships. The wind was fresh and
fair from the ENE, and they sailed Westward, keeping within short distance
of the shore, but found neither harbour nor opening. They had soundings
all the way, the depth being 21 fathoms, a coarse sandy bottom, at eight
miles distance from the land. [Sidenote: Island Tangola.] Having run about
20 leagues along the coast, they came to a small high Island called
_Tangola_, on which they found wood and water; and near it, good
anchorage. 'This Island is about a league distant from the main, which is
pretty high, and savannah land by the sea; but within land it is higher
and woody.'---- [Sidenote: Guatulco. El Buffadore, a spouting Rock.] 'We
coasted a league farther, and came to _Guatulco_, in latitude 15 deg. 30',
which is one of the best ports in this Kingdom of _Mexico_. Near a mile
from the mouth of the harbour, on the East side, is a little Island close
by the main-land. On the West side of the mouth of the harbour, is a great
hollow rock, which by the continual working of the sea in and out, makes a
great noise, and may be heard a great way; every surge that comes in,
forces the water out at a little hole at the top, as out of a pipe, from
whence it flies out just like the blowing of a whale, to which the
Spaniards liken it, and call it _El Buffadore_. Even at the calmest
seasons, the beating of the sea makes the waterspout out at the hole, so
that this is always a good mark to find the harbour of _Guatulco_ by.
[Sidenote: The Harbour of Guatulco.] The harbour runs in NW, is about
three miles deep, and one mile broad. The West side of the harbour is the
best for small ships to ride in: any where else you are open to SW winds,
which often blow here. There is clean ground any where, and good gradual
soundings from 16 to 6 fathoms: it is bounded by a smooth sandy shore,
good for landing; and at the bottom of the harbour is a fine brook of
fresh water running into the sea. The country is extraordinary pleasant
and delightful to behold at a distance[65].'
There appeared to be so few inhabitants at this part of the coast, that
the Buccaneers were not afraid to land their sick. A party of men went
Eastward to seek for houses and inhabitants, and at a league distance from
_Guatulco_ they found a river, named by the Spaniards _El Capalita_, which
had a swift current, and was deep at the entrance. They took a few Indians
prisoners, but learnt nothing of the country from them. [Sidenote:
Vinello, or Vanilla, a Plant.] On the 6th, Townley with 140 men marched
fourteen miles inland, and in all that way found only one small Indian
village, the inhabitants of which cultivated and cured a plant called
_Vinello_, which grows on a vine, and is used to perfume chocolate, and
sometimes tobacco.
The 10th, the canoes were sent Westward; and on the 12th, the ships
followed, the crews being well recovered of the _Ria Lexa_ fever. 'The
coast (from _Guatulco_) lies along West and a little Southerly for 20 or
30 leagues[66].' [Sidenote: Island Sacrificio.] On account of a current
which set Eastward, they anchored near a small green Island named
_Sacrificio_, about a league to the West of _Guatulco_, and half a mile
from the main. In the channel between, was five or six fathoms depth, and
the tide ran there very swift.
[Sidenote: Port de Angeles.] They advanced Westward; but slowly. The
canoes were again overset in attempting to land near _Port de Angeles_, at
a place where cattle were seen feeding, and another man was drowned.
Dampier says, 'We were at this time abreast of _Port de Angeles_, but
those who had gone in the canoes did not know it, because the Spaniards
describe it to be as good a harbour as _Guatulco_. It is a broad open bay
with two or three rocks at the West side. There is good anchorage all over
the bay in depth from 30 to 12 fathoms, but you are open to all winds till
you come into 12 fathoms, and then you are sheltered from the WSW, which
is here the common trade-wind. Here always is a great swell, and landing
is bad. The place of landing is close by the West side, behind a few
rocks. Latitude 15 deg. N. The tide rises about five feet. The land round
_Port de Angeles_ is pretty high, the earth sandy and yellow, in some
places red.' The Buccaneers landed at _Port de Angeles_, and supplied
themselves with cattle, hogs, poultry, maize, and salt; and a large party
of them remained feasting three days at a farm-house. The 27th, they
sailed on Westward.
Some of their canoes in seeking _Port de Angeles_ had been as far Westward
as _Acapulco_. In their way back, they found a river, into which they
went, and filled fresh water. Afterwards, they entered a _lagune_ or lake
of salt water, where fishermen had cured, and stored up fish, of which the
Buccaneers took away a quantity.
[Sidenote: Adventure in a Lagune.] On the evening of the 27th, Swan and
Townley anchored in 16 fathoms depth, near a small rocky Island, six
leagues Westward of _Port de Angeles_, and about half a mile distant from
the main land. The next day they sailed on, and in the night of the 28th,
being abreast the lagune above mentioned, a canoe manned with twelve men
was sent to bring off more of the fish. The entrance into the lagune was
not more than pistol-shot wide, and on each side were rocks, high enough
and convenient to skreen or conceal men. The Spaniards having more
expectation of this second visit than they had of the first, a party of
them, provided with muskets, took station behind these rocks. They waited
patiently till the canoe of the Buccaneers was fairly within the lagune,
and then fired their volley, and wounded five men. The buccaneer crew were
not a little surprised, yet returned the fire; but not daring to repass
the narrow entrance, they rowed to the middle of the lagune, where they
lay out of the reach of shot. There was no other passage out but the one
by which they had entered, which besides being so narrow was a quarter of
a mile in length, and it was too desperate an undertaking to attempt to
repass it. Not knowing what else to do, they lay still two whole days and
three nights in hopes of relief from the ships.
It was not an uncommon circumstance among the Buccaneers, for parties sent
away on any particular design, to undertake some new adventure; the long
absence of the canoe therefore created little surprise in the ships, which
lay off at sea waiting without solicitude for her return; till Townley's
ship happening to stand nearer to the shore than the rest, heard muskets
fired in the lagune. He then sent a strong party in his canoes, which
obliged the Spaniards to retreat from the rocks, and leave the passage
free for the hitherto penned-up Buccaneers. Dampier gives the latitude of
this lagune, 'about 16 deg. 40' N.'
[Sidenote: November. Alcatraz Rock. White Cliffs. River to the West of the
Cliffs.] They coasted on Westward, with fair weather, and a current
setting to the West. On November the 2d, they passed a rock called by the
Spaniards the _Alcatraz_ (Pelican.) 'Five or six miles to the West of the
rock are seven or eight white cliffs, which are remarkable, because there
are none other so white and so thick together on all the coast. A
dangerous shoal lies SbW from these cliffs, four or five miles off at sea.
Two leagues to the West of these cliffs is a pretty large river, which
forms a small Island at its mouth. The channel on the East side is shoal
and sandy; the West channel is deep enough for canoes to enter.' The
Spaniards had raised a breastwork on the banks of this channel, and they
made a show of resisting the Buccaneers; but seeing they were determined
on landing, they quitted the place; on which Dampier honestly remarks,
'One chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us, though
much our superiors in number, is, their want of fire-arms; for they have
but few unless near their large garrisons.'
[Sidenote: Snook, a Fish.] A large quantity of salt intended for salting
the fish caught in the lagune, was taken here. Dampier says, 'The fish in
these lagunes were of a kind called Snooks, which are neither sea-fish nor
fresh-water fish; it is about a foot long, round, and as thick as the
small of a man's leg, has a pretty long head, whitish scales, and is good
meat.'
[Sidenote: November 7th. High Land of Acapulco.] A Mulatto whom they took
prisoner told them that a ship of twenty guns had lately arrived at
_Acapulco_ from _Lima_. Townley and his crew had long been dissatisfied
with their ship; and in hopes of getting a better, they stood towards the
harbour of _Acapulco_. On the 7th, they made the high land over
_Acapulco_, 'which is remarkable by a round hill standing between two
other hills, both higher, the Westernmost of which is the biggest and the
highest, and has two hillocks like two paps at the top.' Dampier gives the
latitude of _Acapulco_ 17 deg. N[67].
This was not near the usual time either of the departure or of the arrival
of the Manila ships, and except at those times, _Acapulco_ is almost
deserted on account of the situation being unhealthy. _Acapulco_ is
described hot, unwholesome, pestered with gnats, and having nothing good
but the harbour. Merchants depart from it as soon as they have transacted
their business. Townley accordingly expected to bring off the _Lima_ ship
quietly, and with little trouble. In the evening of the 7th, the ships
being then so far from land that they could not be descried, Townley with
140 men departed in twelve canoes for the harbour of _Acapulco_. They did
not reach _Port Marques_ till the second night; and on the third night
they rowed softly and unperceived by the Spaniards into _Acapulco
Harbour_. They found the _Lima_ ship moored close to the castle, and,
after reconnoitring, thought it would not be in their power to bring her
off; so they paddled back quietly out of the harbour, and returned to
their ships, tired and disappointed.
[Sidenote: Sandy Beach, West of Acapulco. Hill of Petaplan.] Westward from
the Port of _Acapulco_, they passed a sandy bay or beach above twenty
leagues in length, the sea all the way beating with such force on the
shore that a boat could not approach with safety. 'There was clean
anchoring ground at a mile or two from the shore. At the West end of this
Bay, in 17 deg. 30' N, is the Hill of _Petaplan_, which is a round point
stretching out into the sea, and at a distance seems an Island[68].' This
was reckoned twenty-five leagues from _Acapulco_. A little to the West of
the hill are several round white rocks. They sailed within the rocks,
having 11 fathoms depth, and anchored on the NW side of the hill. Their
Mosquito men took here some small turtle and small jew-fish.
They landed, and at an Indian village took a Mulatto woman and her
children, whom they carried on board. They learnt from her that a caravan
drawn by mules was going with flour and other goods to _Acapulco_, but
that the carrier had stopped on the road from apprehension of the
Buccaneers.
[Sidenote: Chequetan.] The ships weighed their anchors, and ran about two
leagues farther Westward, to a place called _Chequetan_, which Dampier
thus describes: 'A mile and a half from the shore is a small Key (or
Island) and within it is a very good harbour, where ships may careen: here
is also a small river of fresh water, and wood enough.'
[Sidenote: 14th. Estapa.] On the 14th, in the morning, about a hundred
Buccaneers set off in search of the carrier, taking the woman prisoner for
a guide. They landed a league to the West of _Chequetan_, at a place
called _Estapa_, and their conductress led them through a wood, by the
side of a river, about a league, which brought them to a savannah full of
cattle; and here at a farm-house the carrier and his mules were lodged. He
had 40 packs of flour, some chocolate, small cheeses, and earthenware. The
eatables, with the addition of eighteen beeves which they killed, the
Buccaneers laid on the backs of above fifty mules which were at hand, and
drove them to their boats. A present of clothes was made to the woman, and
she, with two of her children, were set at liberty; but the other child, a
boy seven or eight years old, Swan kept, against the earnest intreaties of
the mother. Dampier says, 'Captain Swan promised her to make much of him,
and was as good as his word. He proved afterwards a fine boy for wit,
courage, and dexterity.'
[Sidenote: 21st. Hill of Thelupan.] They proceeded Westward along the
coast, which was high land full of ragged hills, but with pleasant and
fruitful vallies between. The 25th, they were abreast a hill, 'which
towered above his fellows, and was divided in the top, making two small
parts. It is in latitude 18 deg. 8' N. The Spaniards mention a town called
_Thelupan_ near this hill.'
The 26th, the Captains Swan and Townley went in the canoes with 200 men,
to seek the city of _Colima_, which was reported to be a rich place: but
their search was fruitless. They rowed 20 leagues along shore, and found
no good place for landing; neither did they see house or inhabitant,
although they passed by a fine valley, called the _Valley of Maguella_,
except that towards the end of their expedition, they saw a horseman, who
they supposed had been stationed as a sentinel, for he rode off
immediately on their appearance. They landed with difficulty, and followed
the track of the horse on the sand, but lost it in the woods.
[Sidenote: 28th. Volcano of Colima. Valley of Colima.] On the 28th, they
saw the Volcano of _Colima_, which is in about 18 deg. 36' N latitude, five or
six leagues from the sea, and appears with two sharp points, from each of
which issued flames or smoke. The _Valley of Colima_ is ten or twelve
leagues wide by the sea: it abounds in cacao-gardens, fields of corn, and
plantain walks. The coast is a sandy shore, on which the waves beat with
violence. Eastward of the Valley the land is woody. A river ran here into
the sea, with a shoal or bar at its entrance, which boats could not pass.
On the West side of the river was savannah land.
[Sidenote: December. Salagua.] December the 1st, they were near the Port
of _Salagua_, which Dampier reckoned in latitude 18 deg. 52' N. He says, 'it
is only a pretty deep bay, divided in the middle with a rocky point, which
makes, as it were, two harbours[69]. Ships may ride secure in either, but
the West harbour is the best: the depth of water is 10 or 12 fathom, and a
brook of fresh water runs into the sea there.'
[Sidenote: Report of a great City named Oarrah.] Two hundred Buccaneers
landed at _Salagua_, and finding a broad road which led inland, they
followed it about four leagues, over a dry stony country, much overgrown
with short wood, without seeing habitation or inhabitant; but in their
return, they met and took prisoners two Mulattoes, who informed them that
the road they had been travelling led to a great city called _Oarrah_,
which was distant as far as a horse will travel in four days; and that
there was no place of consequence nearer. The same prisoner said the
_Manila_ ship was daily expected to stop at this part of the coast to land
passengers; for that the arrival of the ships at _Acapulco_ from the
_Philippines_ commonly happened about Christmas, and scarcely ever more
than eight or ten days before or after.
Swan and Townley sailed on for Cape _Corrientes_. Many among the crews
were at this time taken ill with a fever and ague, which left the patients
dropsical. Dampier says, the dropsy is a disease very common on this
coast. He was one of the sufferers, and continued ill a long time; and
several died of it.
[Sidenote: The Land near Cape Corrientes. Coronada Hills. Cape
Corrientes.] The coast Southward of _Cape Corrientes_, is of moderate
height, and full of white cliffs. The inland country is high and barren,
with sharp peaked hills. Northward of this rugged land, is a chain of
mountains which terminates Eastward with a high steep mountain, which has
three sharp peaks and resembles a crown; and is therefore called by the
Spaniards _Coronada_. On the 11th they came in sight of _Cape Corrientes_.
When the _Cape_ bore NbW, the _Coronada_ mountain bore ENE[70].
On arriving off _Cape Corrientes_, the buccaneer vessels spread, for the
advantage of enlarging their lookout, the Cygnet taking the outer station
at about ten leagues distance from the _Cape_. Provisions however soon
became scarce, on which account Townley's tender and some of the canoes
were sent to the land to seek a supply. The canoes rowed up along shore
against a Northerly wind to the _Bay de Vanderas_; but the bark could not
get round _Cape Corrientes_. [Sidenote: 18th.] On the 18th, Townley
complained he wanted fresh water, whereupon the ships quitted their
station near the Cape, and sailed to some small Islands called the _Keys
of Chametly_, which are situated to the SE of _Cape Corrientes_, to take
in fresh water.
The descriptions of the coast of _New Spain_ given by Dampier, in his
account of his voyage with the Buccaneers, contain many particulars of
importance which are not to be found in any other publication. Dampier's
manuscript and the printed Narrative frequently differ, and it is
sometimes apparent that the difference is not the effect of inadvertence,
or mistake in the press, but that it was intended as a correction from a
reconsideration of the subject. [Sidenote: Keys or Islands of Chametly.]
The printed Narrative says at this part, 'These _Keys_ or _Islands_ of
_Chametly_ are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eastward of _Cape
Corrientes_. They are small, low, woody, and environed with rocks. There
are five of them lying in the form of a half moon, not a mile from the
shore of the main, and between them and the main land is very good riding
secure from any wind[71].' In the manuscript it is said, 'the Islands
_Chametly_ make a secure port. They lie eight or nine leagues from _Port
Navidad_.'
It is necessary to explain that Dampier, in describing his navigation
along the coast of _New Spain_, uses the terms Eastward and Westward, not
according to the precise meaning of the words, but to signify being more
or less advanced along the coast from the _Bay of Panama_. By Westward, he
invariably means more advanced towards the _Gulf of California_; by
Eastward, the contrary.
[Sidenote: Form a convenient Port.] The ships entered within the _Chametly
Islands_ by the channel at the SE end, and anchored in five fathoms depth,
on a bottom of clean sand. They found there good fresh water and wood, and
caught plenty of rock-fish with hook and line. No inhabitants were seen,
but there were huts, made for the temporary convenience of fishermen who
occasionally went there to fish for the inhabitants of the city of _La
Purificacion_. These Islands, forming a commodious port affording fresh
water and other conveniencies, from the smallness of their size are not
made visible in the Spanish charts of the coast of _New Spain_ in present
use[72]. Whilst the ships watered at the _Keys_ or _Isles of Chametly_, a
party was sent to forage on the main land, whence they carried off about
40 bushels of maize.
On the 22d, they left the _Keys of Chametly_, and returned to their
cruising station off _Cape Corrientes_, where they were rejoined by the
canoes which had been to the _Bay de Vanderas_. Thirty-seven men had
landed there from the canoes, who went three miles into the country, where
they encountered a body of Spaniards, consisting both of horse and foot.
The Buccaneers took benefit of a small wood for shelter against the
attack of the horse, yet the Spaniards rode in among them; but the Spanish
Captain and some of their foremost men being killed, the rest retreated.
Four of the Buccaneers were killed, and two desperately wounded. The
Spanish infantry were more numerous than the horse, but they did not join
in the attack, because they were armed only with lances and swords;
'nevertheless,' says Dampier, 'if they had come in, they would certainly
have destroyed all our men.' The Buccaneers conveyed their two wounded men
to the water side on horses, one of which, when they arrived at their
canoes, they killed and drest; not daring to venture into the savannah for
a bullock, though they saw many grazing.
[Sidenote: 1686. January. Bay de Vanderas.] Swan and Townley preserved
their station off _Cape Corrientes_ only till the 1st of January, 1686,
when their crews became impatient for fresh meat, and they stood into the
_Bay de Vanderas_, to hunt for beef. The depth of water in this Bay is
very great, and the ships were obliged to anchor in 60 fathoms.
[Sidenote: Valley of Vanderas.] 'The _Valley of Vanderas_ is about three
leagues wide, with a sandy bay against the sea, and smooth landing. In the
midst of this bay (or beach) is a fine river, into which boats may enter;
but it is brackish at the latter part of the dry season, which is in
March, and part of April. The Valley is enriched with fruitful savannahs,
mixed with groves of trees fit for any use; and fruit-trees grow wild in
such plenty as if nature designed this place only for a garden. The
savannahs are full of fat bulls and cows, and horses; but no house was in
sight.'
Here they remained hunting beeves, till the 7th of the month. Two hundred
and forty men landed every day, sixty of whom were stationed as a guard,
whilst the rest pursued the cattle; the Spaniards all the time appearing
in large companies on the nearest hills. The Buccaneers killed and salted
meat sufficient to serve them two months, which expended all their salt.
Whilst they were thus occupied in the pleasant valley of _Vanderas_, the
galeon from _Manila_ sailed past _Cape Corrientes_, and pursued her course
in safety to _Acapulco_. This they learnt afterwards from prisoners; but
it was by no means unexpected: on the contrary, they were in general so
fully persuaded it would be the consequence of their going into the _Bay
de Vanderas_, that they gave up all intention of cruising for her
afterwards.
[Sidenote: Swan and Townley part company.] The main object for which
Townley had gone thus far Northward being disposed of, he and his crew
resolved to return Southward. Some Darien Indians had remained to this
time with Swan: they were now committed to the care of Townley, and the
two ships broke off consortship, and parted company.