CONTENTS—The situation of Kingston—Under military influence—
Monopolist—Early history of legislation—In 1810—Gourlay’s
statement—Police—Modern Kingston—Lord Sydenham—Seat of government—
Perambulating—Surrounding country—Provisions—An appeal for
Kingston as capital—Barriefield—Pittsburgh—Building of small
crafts—Famous—Roads—Waterloo—Cemetery—Portsmouth—Kingston Mill—
Little Cataraqui—Collinsby—Quantity of land—Early and influential
inhabitants—Post masters—“Honorable men”—Deacon, Macaulay,
Cartwright, Markland, Cummings, Smiths, Kerby—Allen McLean, first
lawyer—A gardener—Sheriff McLean—“Chrys” Hagerman—Customs—Sampson,
shooting a smuggler—Hagerman, M.P.P.—Removes to Toronto.
THE FIRST TOWNSHIP—EVENTS IN ITS EARLY HISTORY.
It must be admitted, the place did not possess from its geographical
situation the requisites for becoming a great city, although its
situation at the head of the St. Lawrence, would always secure for it a
certain degree of importance. There are evils incident to places,
depending upon the military and naval bodies, and these can be seen in
connection with the history of Kingston. Anything which drew away for a
time, to any extent, either arm of the service, had a damaging effect
upon the prosperity, and stagnation resulted in business.
Early Kingston must be regarded as a town growing up in the back woods,
with a population governed and influenced more or less by the society of
officers and soldiers, and while the former gave dignity and tone to the
higher classes, the lower portion of society was correspondingly and for
evil, affected by the presence of the soldiers, with the numerous
groggeries, and low houses of entertainments, which particularly in
former days, were found to exist in connection with military
establishments.
In the first years of Canada, speculation was common with a certain
class. Land claims could be purchased for a mere song. The holder of a
“location ticket,” would often part with his title for a few quarts of
rum, while many other holders were glad to sell for a few pounds of
ready money, or certain articles of stock. It came that in time, a
certain number of monopolists, living at Kingston, held land in the rear
concessions and neighboring townships. The Imperial money in Kingston
was often spent without contributing to the improvement of the adjacent
country. But the time came when the encircling settlers compelled a more
generous course of conduct.
But, much obscurity rests upon the history of the first seven or ten
years of the village of Kingston. The effort has been made to gather up
the fragments pertaining thereto, and arrange them so as to form a
connected whole.
Cooper says that “the town was laid out in 1793, being then confined to
what is now the eastern portion in the vicinity of the _Tête du Pont_
barracks, and what was then known as the Cataraqui Common, lots 25, 24,
23, on which is situated the chief part of the city, were then farm lots
of 200 acres each, and uncleared.”
According to the census roll in the office of the clerk of the peace
1794, the population of Cataraqui village was 345. It would seem that
the appearance of the village was not very pleasing. But the
surroundings had a certain wild beauty. The first buildings were of the
most inferior kind. Kingston now so beautiful in its fine buildings and
well appointed streets, had in its first days but the humblest of log
tenements, with the rude Indian wigwam for a neighbor. Instead of fair
broad streets, and a well ordered park, there was the Indian foot path,
and the thick tangled wood, with the stately pine.
In 1793 an act was passed “to fix the times and places of holding the
courts of quarter sessions, within the several districts,” according to
which it was provided that the courts of the midland district should be
held in Kingston, in April and October of each year. This added somewhat
to the dignity of the place. Then in 1801, there was created an act to
empower commissioners of the peace, to establish a market at Kingston,
where might be exposed for sale “butchers’ meat, butter, eggs, poultry,
fish, and vegetables.” It was further enacted that all “rules and
regulations shall be published by causing a copy of them to be affixed
in the most public place in every township in the district, and at the
doors of the church and court house of the said town of Kingston, &c.”
In 1810, Kingston was yet a small place. Mr. Miles who moved there at
the time says there was not a sidewalk or pavement, and he for a time
boarded in one of several log houses close by the market place, “where
was no lack of mud in the spring and fall, and it was no uncommon thing
for waggons to be pried out by fence rails just north of the market
place. Pine trees of the forest yet waved almost over the market place.
A thick wood covered Point Henry, and the ground, where now is erected
St. Andrew’s Church and parsonage. The limit of the town on the north
was at Store Street, now Princess, the last house being on the north
east side, Alcott’s old store, and on the west side where Mr. Meadows
now resides. The road, for it was then such only after passing, Alcott’s
turned to the right, and went a zigzag course northwards, till it
reached the second concession, now Waterloo road. This was a distance of
five miles from the foot of Store Street.”
A resident writing to the _Kingston Gazette_, December 26, 1815, among
other things, says that the town of Kingston, “possessing so many
advantages, it is time that its inhabitants should adopt some plan of
improving and embellishing of it. The streets require very great
repairs, as in the rainy seasons it scarcely possible to move about
without being in mud to the ankles; from the breadth, they will admit of
very wide footpaths on both sides, which ought to be paved, at least in
every part of the town where the buildings are connected. Lamps are
required to light the streets in the dark of the moon. Trees should be
planted on each side. The streets should be kept free of lumber of every
kind, and piles of wood. A fire engine, with a certain number of
buckets, with a company of firemen should exist. But first the
legislature must form a code of laws, forming a complete police. To meet
expense, government might lay a rate upon every inhabitant householder
in proportion to value of property in house.”
Another correspondent under the signature of Citizen, says, “January 27,
1816, that he approves of “A Residents” remarks, and in addition, he
suggests that the lower classes follow the example of the liberal spirit
manifested among heads of society in the previous summer in contributing
to the turnpiking of the streets, and paving the footpaths before their
own doors. They ought to imitate, though faintly, that noble and
generous example.” Besides this, among other things, Citizen speaks
against persons who work at their trades on Sunday, instead of going to
church. “Luther,” another correspondent says, there is the noise of
hammers and axes from sunrise to sunset, on Sundays.
According to the _Kingston Gazette_, August 14, 1829, the census taken
that year shewed the population of the town to be 3528, but this did not
include the military. The number of inhabitants in 1836 was 6000.
At the present time, 1867, Kingston is said to cover an area of 2930
acres, while Toronto boasts of 5885 acres.
R. Gourlay says, in 1816, that Kingston “is now progressing rapidly in
population and buildings, as well as in business. From 1811 to 1816 the
number of dwellings increased from 130 to 300; but it is estimated that
100 more will have been erected at the close of this year.” Much of this
prosperity was doubtless due to the war, causing so many troops to be
stationed there; at the same time business and general growth of the
City received an impetus which the close of the war failed entirely to
arrest. This year a bill passed Parliament “to regulate the police,
within the town of Kingston.” More ample provision was made in 1824.
In 1821, a writer says, Kingston was the largest town in Upper Canada,
containing about 5000 inhabitants including the military. “The people
live in good style, but are not very hospitable; they are mostly in the
mercantile business.” The number of inhabitants is probably over
estimated, as in 1824 it is stated on good authority, that the
population amounts to 2336. “The buildings are of such an inferior
description as scarcely to be worthy of notice.”
MODERN KINGSTON.
The events chronicled in this work are mainly those which came to pass
prior to 1830, and the history of the first township here recorded must
mainly be limited to those early days. It will not, however, be
inappropriate to glance, and it will be a mere glance at the Kingston of
modern days. The greatest event in connection with Kingston, was the
selection by Lord Sydenham, when the Upper and Lower Provinces were
united in 1840, into one, for the capital of United Canada. Its claim to
that honor as the most central city cannot be questioned. It may fairly
be questioned on the other hand whether it was a wise and judicious
policy, which caused Kingston to be forsaken, and the perambulatory
system to be substituted. Had the Seat of Government permanently rested
at Kingston, much expense to the country would have been saved, and at
the same time a great deal of heart bitterness stirred up by political
agitators, likewise prevented. But the hopes of Kingston as the capital
were shortlived, and with the death of Lord Sydenham, in 1842, resulting
from an accident, who had been mainly the cause of Kingston becoming the
capital, the brightest prospects of the oldest town in Upper Canada,
were buried.
In 1845 Government was removed to Montreal. The motives according to
Cooper, which had much to do in determining the removal were not such as
are supposed to actuate statesmen. After rebutting the charge which it
seems had been made, that there was “no surrounding country calculated
to furnish marketable produce to a large non-producing population,” and
referring to the undoubted facts that the townships along the Bay of
Quinté were far more than adequate to meet all the gastronomists wants,
he concludes. “It may seem a small consideration when treating of so
important a branch of the subject, to take into account these
circumstances, but there is no ignoring the fact that the absence of
some of these minor luxuries had a serious effect on the minds, and
perhaps digestion of some of the officials of Her Majesty’s Provincial
Government, and some people at a distance are persuaded that Kingston is
a city built on a rock, surrounded with barren and stoney wilds, out of
which a bare existence is wrung by the occupants, and but a scanty
supply afforded to the City, and in deference to those thus
unenlightened, facts are dwelt on which may seem trivial to those in the
least acquainted with the neighborhood. Since 1845, when the Government
was removed to Montreal, this City has greatly increased in the number
of well built and commodious houses, which, with a well regulated and
well supplied market, tempting the most fastidious, would prevent even
the temporary inconveniences which in that year were felt. If any
families had to adopt double-bedded rooms, and to import their own
celery in those days, we can now assure them ‘_nous avous changes tout
cela_.’ In short we claim for a City central, indeed almost in the very
centre of the Province to be governed, proverbially healthy,
substantially built, strongly fortified, well lighted, thoroughly
drained, pleasantly situated, abundantly supplied, easy of access, the
focus of a net-work of good roads, the outlet of the produce of several
rich countries, provided with a good harbour, and enjoying many other
advantages, a pre-eminence among all Canadian Cities, as the permanent
Seat of the Government of the Province.”
The existence of the Seat of Government at Kingston, although of short
duration, had a beneficial effect; many handsome buildings were erected
besides those used for the several Public Departments. “The Municipal
Legislature of the City was encouraged to make improvements in streets,
drainage, sidewalks, and otherwise, and to erect the present handsome
and expensive edifice, the City Hall and Market House, though not so
useful as it would have been had the Government remained here. The whole
building is occupied, and produces a revenue exceeding in amount the
interest on its cost. On the whole it may fairly be considered that the
City was improved by the temporary location of the Government here.”
BARRIEFIELD.—The Cataraqui Bridge, which spans the great Cataraqui
River, connects Kingston with the Township of Pittsburgh, the origin of
which name is sufficiently well indicated. Close by, is the village of
Barriefield, “named after Commodore Barrie, who was head of the Naval
Department for many years.” “It forms a sort of suburb to the city, and
though not a place of much increase, has been long settled. It has an
elevated ground, and from it the visitor obtains a very favorable and
pleasing view of Kingston, with its harbors, forts and towers. At
Barriefield, are built the best small crafts, skiffs, and pleasure boats
in use throughout the Province. They are sent hence to all parts, and
their character and build are well known to the aquatic sportsman, and
amateur mariner. Not only in the Province, but abroad, these boats are
sought after, and in use, some of them being now afloat on the Lake of
Geneva. The Kingston, Pittsburgh, and Gananoque, and the Kingston and
Phillipsville Macadamized Roads run through this township, opening up
the township beyond, and affording to the settler a ready access to a
never-failing market. Within this township, are upwards of thirty-eight
miles of thoroughly macadamized roads, besides good country roads to and
between the concessions. That part of Pittsburgh where Barriefield
stands, and for about two miles eastward, was formerly part of the
township of Kingston. When the site of the Town of Kingston was first
selected, the spot where this village is situated was suggested, but was
overruled in favor of the present locality of Kingston, which certainly
offered greater advantages for the site of a city.”
Kingston Township contains, not only the city of that name, but various
villages; “one of the nearest to that city is that of _Waterloo_, a very
pretty and neat little hamlet, about three miles from town. It contains
about 300 inhabitants, and has its Town Hall, Church, Stores, Inns, &c.”
“In the neighborhood of this village, is the _Cataraqui Cemetery_, laid
out on a rising ground crowned by a grove of small pine trees. Much care
and skill in landscape gardening has been displayed in rendering the
ground picturesque and pleasing; a fine and extended view of the
surrounding country, and a pretty glimpse of the Bay is obtained from
the Cemetery grounds. This spot is not excelled in beauty and
appropriateness, by anything in the Province, and is compared by
travelers, who view it, to Greenwood Cemetery, in Brooklyn, N. Y. It
covers some sixty-five acres of land, and when ornamented by such
numerous and elegant monuments, as the living have erected to mark their
respect to the beloved dead in older places of sepulture, will be
unsurpassed by the oldest and most beautiful cemeteries known.”
“_Portsmouth_ is another village, about equidistant from Kingston with
Waterloo, lying westward on the Lake shore; it was at one time, a very
bustling spot, and much enterprise was evinced in ship-building. It
suffered, for a time, from the withdrawal of the Seat of Government, and
the construction of the St. Lawrence canals, but has now recovered its
former prosperity, which promises to continue. The ship-building
business has revived, and is carried on with energy and success. In its
neighborhood are several handsome houses and villa-residences: the
surrounding country offering very inviting spots for building. It
contains about 350 inhabitants, and a large amount of rateable property,
and has an exceedingly neat unique little Church, in old English style,
with a belfry.” Portsmouth is now united to Kingston, by the erection of
buildings between them.
Within the Township of Kingston, about five miles from the city, is the
old “Kingston Mill.” It is situated upon the Rideau Canal. The traveler,
as he passes along by train, over a tubular bridge, will be struck by
the beauty and grandeur of the scene. (For particulars, see “Early Years
of Upper Canada.”)
Little Cataraqui is a stream of small dimensions, confined to the
township. In addition to the Little Cataraqui stream, there is running
across the township, the Collins Creek, so named after Surveyor Collins.
Not far from its source, in the north east part of the township, is a
small, pleasant lake, of the same name, while, at its mouth, is Collins’
Bay. This is a beautiful inlet of the Bay Quinté, and forms a good
harbour. The place is known as Collinsby, and is situated about five
miles west of Kingston.
The quantity of land in the township, is about 47,906. The soil is
principally clay upon a limestone foundation; but still there is much of
it capable of bearing good crops, to the careful and scientific farmer.
Thomas Deacon, father of the present Post Master, was Post Master from
1800 to 1836, when his duties in the Commissariat Department obliged him
to resign that office. The Hon. John Macauley occupied the post from
1813 to 1836, when he resigned, and was succeeded by the present
incumbent, Robert Deacon.
We will supplement the reference we have made to the leading men of
Kingston, by giving extracts from a communication we have, at the last
moment received, written by one who, now well advanced in life, spent
his earlier years of manhood in Kingston, when the first inhabitants
were in the afternoon of their life.
The Hon. R. Cartwright, the pioneer merchant, and Judge of Mecklenburgh,
seems to have stood next in importance and influence to the Rev. Mr.
Stuart. “Among the prominent merchants were Thomas Markland, John
Cummings, Peter Smith, John Kirby, and John Macaulay.” They were “all
honorable men,” and “members of the English Church,” and of undeviating
loyalty. Mr. Markland left a son. John Cummings left no issue. He was a
man of “great energy; a magistrate, and filled other offices under the
Government.” Peter Smith was “highly respected, upright in all his
dealings, and free from any moral or political reproach.” “A fine
specimen of an English gentleman.” He “carried with him evidence that he
was no stranger to good dinners, and understood the qualities of good
wine.” He died at an advanced age, 1825, leaving a son and two
daughters.
“John Kirby was another fine specimen of an Englishman. He loved good
wine and good dinners. Extremely affable, always in good humor,
universally respected. His highest ambition, in the evening of his days,
seemed to be the enjoyment of domestic tranquility, and a quiet home,
made happy to him by a wife of rare sense, intelligent, and possessed of
many amiable accomplishments.” The Hon. John Macaulay had a well
disciplined mind, possessed great energy of character, and was decided
in his political opinions no doubt, from conscientious motives. In his
business transactions “he was scrupulously exact.” “Extremely temperate
in his habits. Was one of those who passed through life without exposing
themselves to the obloquy of their political opponents.” Allen McLean,
Esq., the first Lawyer of Kingston; created such by an order in Council.
His “abilities were moderate,” and “his original education defective.”
“A man of considerable taste, modest, dignified in his deportment. For
many years, was the only legal adviser in the place. He was a faithful
representative in Parliament for many years. Was liberal in his
political opinions.” “As proof of his good taste, he was proprietor of
one of the best gardens in the Province. It covered one acre of ground,
and contained many choice fruit trees, such as apples, plums, pears,
peach, &c.,—all tastefully arranged, kept in prime order, and defended
from the wind by a high wall. He took an honest pride in showing his
garden to his friends who called upon him, and was not stinted in
distributing its luscious products.” Mr. McLean left one daughter, who
became the wife of John McLean, Esq., Sheriff of the Midland District.
Christopher Hagerman resided for many years in Kingston. Was, for many
years, Custom House Officer, and while so, one of his students (Mr.
Samson, afterwards of Belleville) detected a man, by the name of Lyons,
in the act of carrying smuggled goods, and ordered him to stop. On his
refusing to do so, Mr. S. discharged his pistol, which took effect, the
ball passing through the chest. Lyons rushed to his house, a few doors
off, and fell exhausted from loss of blood. Mr. Samson, frightened at
what he had done, hastened to summon two doctors, Drs. Armstrong and
Sampson. This occurred before daylight, on the morning of the 26th June,
1824. The life of Lyons was despaired of for many days; but, eventually,
he grew better, and gained a moderate degree of health. It is creditable
to Mr. Hagerman, that he cheerfully paid the medical attendants. Mr.
Hagerman represented Kingston in Parliament several years. He removed to
Toronto, a few years previous to the rebellion of 1836.