CONTENTS—Cooper’s Essay—Loyalists naming places—King’s Town—Queen’s
Town—Niagara—Spanish names—Cataraqui from 1759 to 1783—Desolation—
The rebellion—Station, Carleton Island—Settling—Refugees at New
York—Michael Grass—Prisoner at Cataraqui—From New York to Canada—
Captain Grass takes possession of first township—First
landholders—A letter by Captain Grass—Changes—Surveying forts and
harbors—Report to Lord Dorchester—Kingston, _versus_ Carleton
Island—The defenses—Troops—King’s township—First settlers—“Plan of
township No. 1”—First owners of town lots—Names—Settlers upon the
front—First inhabitants of Kingston—A naval and military station—
The Commodore—Living of old—Kingston in _last century_—New
fortifications.
SETTLEMENT AT CATARAQUI BY THE LOYALISTS.
It would be impossible to write of Kingston without traveling the ground
already taken by writers, especially in an admirable essay written by C.
W. Cooper, Barrister-at-law, being a prize essay published in 1856. We
shall accept very many of the statements therein contained except we
find trustworthy grounds for controverting them. Much, however, of the
subject matter we had laboriously collected before this pamphlet was
placed in our hands by our friend M. Sweetnam, Esq., P. O. Inspector.
The practice of naming places, rivers, &c., after royal personages and
those occupying prominent places in the public service, naturally arose
from the intense loyalty which reigned in the bosoms of all who had
forsaken their old homes to settle under the old flag in the wilderness.
The pre-eminence of Kingston is indicated by the name, which seems to
have been given it at a very early date, as surveyor Collins uses that
name in 1788. This, the first township surveyed and settled, was named
_King’s_ township. Afterwards the town and township came to be called
Kingston. In this connection reference may be made to _Queenstown_ at
the head of navigation upon the Niagara River. Trade with the west along
Lake Erie was carried on, and boats were accustomed to pass up and down
on their way to and from Montreal. These boats had to be carried around
the Falls of Niagara. Already many of Butler’s Rangers and persons
connected with the Indian department, began to settle upon the Canadian
side of the Niagara. There was very shortly a collection of houses at
the point of landing, and the commencement of the portage, and nothing
was more natural than this, the second village formed by the United
Empire Loyalists, should receive the name of Queenstown, not unlikely
the name was bestowed by the Hon. R. Hamilton.
As we proceed, it will be observed how general was the habit to give
names derived from Great Britain and Englishmen. The most notable
exception to this is to be found in connection with those places that
received names during the time of Sir Peregrine Maitland, who had a
fancy for bestowing Spanish names.
During the time which elapsed between the evacuation of Frontenac, the
year after the destruction of the fort, in the autumn of 1759, until the
commencement of the American rebellion, and until its close, ruin and
desolation prevailed at Cataraqui. It is found intimated, but not on the
best authority, that there continued to live at this place a certain
number of French families and half-breed Indians. That such was the case
is quite possible, though, as yet, no positive proof is to be found.
But, at the most there was a few log huts around the ruins of the fort,
and upon the cleared ground adjacent thereto, or perhaps upon the site
of the ancient chapel of the Recollets. No doubt the Indians frequently
encamped in this vicinity, perhaps had a permanent village. The words of
Captain Grass, penned twenty-seven years later, may probably be accepted
as correct, that “scarse the vestige of a human habitation could be
found in the whole extent of the Bay of Quinté.”
The rebellion led to the establishment of a military post at the Island
of Chevereux, or Goat Island, subsequently named Carleton Island. This
position was found more convenient than the site of old Fort of
Frontenac. After the defeat of General Burgoyne, at Saratoga, in 1778,
there were many refugees who sought protection at the several military
posts along the northern frontier of New York, that of Carleton Island
among the rest. Indeed, it is probable that to this place a large number
escaped, as being more safe than Oswego or Niagara. A communication was
with some regularity kept up between this place and Montreal, and also
the Fort of Niagara. By the army boats, refugees may have passed to
Montreal; but it would seem that a considerable number remained
domiciled at Carleton Island, eating the food supplied by government. Of
course, able bodied men would be at once enrolled into the companies, to
do military service; yet there would remain a certain number of males,
besides the women, who were incapacitated for military life. During the
continuation of the war, there is every reason to believe that
individuals, perhaps families, would cross to the old fort at Cataraqui,
to stay for a while, or even take up their abode.
It may have been, that there were here some advantages in cultivating
the cleared land, which did not exist at Carleton Island. In the absence
of active duty, not unlikely the soldiers and officers would pass over
to fish or hunt, or perhaps to examine the land as to quality, and
facilities for settlement. Bongard says his father, who was with
Holland, said that a small village existed at Cataraqui. But it was not
until the close of the war 1783, that a systematic settlement commenced.
That settlers existed, during this year, at Cataraqui, there is no
doubt. It was sometimes referred to in Lower Canada as Seignory, No. 1.
Col. John Clark, whose father was in the Commissariat Department during
the war, says, that he was born at Cataraqui, in 1783, and was baptized
by the Rev. Mr. Stuart. The family must then have been living on the
mainland, as he speaks of another brother as being born on Carleton
Island. The probability is that at this date, there were a few families
living in the vicinity of the fort.
At the close of the war, it was a question of considerable importance,
what can be done to ameliorate the condition of the loyalists? While the
commissioners, who completed the terms of peace at Paris, chose to sink
the interests and welfare of the loyalists in their unseemly haste to
complete the treaty, the officers commanding in America, everywhere felt
the deepest sympathy, and keenest compassion for the refugees. Among
these was the officer commanding at New York. At this juncture of
affairs, when they were undecided, whether to embark for Nova Scotia, or
Lower Canada, it came to the ears of the General, that one Michael
Grass, of New York, had been a prisoner of the French, before the
conquest at Cataraqui. He caused that person to appear before him, and
to report as to the character of the country, and the probabilities of
its being a suitable place for refugees to seek homes. Mr. Grass having
rendered a favorable report, the result was that he was commissioned
Captain, and placed at the head of a band of loyalists, staying at New
York. They were dispatched in King’s ships, under the care of a
man-of-war.
Mr. Robert Everett Grass, of Sidney, the grandson of Captain Grass,
says, that the party of refugees set sail from New York in a fleet of
seven vessels, and after a long voyage of nine weeks, during which they
encountered a severe gale, lasting eight days, and nearly wrecking them,
they reached Sorel. This was probably in the early part of 1783. The men
of the party ascended the St. Lawrence in batteaux, and landed at the
mouth of Little Cataraqui Creek, thence proceeding westward, prospecting
as far as Collin’s Bay. Crossing to the west side of this little bay,
Captain Grass attempted to drive a stake in the ground, with the
intention of fixing a tent, or commencing a survey, whereupon he found
it rocky. Remarking that he had come too far to settle upon a rock, he
returned to the east of the cove, and took possession of the first
township of the Bay Quinté. There seems some reason to believe that,
when Grass arrived in Canada, and explained to the Government his
mission, that Surveyor General Holland, directed Deputy Surveyor Collins
to proceed with Captain Grass to Cataraqui, so that he might be guided
by him. If such was the case, the base line along the front of the first
township, must have been run before Captain Grass crossed to the west of
Collins Bay, and rejected the land lying to the west thereof. Captain
Grass, as well as the surveying party, returned to Sorel for the winter,
and, in the spring, they returned, accompanied by all of the families,
under Captain Grass. It was the summer of 1784 that the first township
was occupied. There was some dissatisfaction at the preference accorded
to Captain Grass by those who had been in Canada. His superior claim was
however acknowledged. At the same time, there appears to have been some
compromise, from the fact, that while Captain Grass himself obtained the
first lot adjoining to the reserve for the town, the second one, which
was by number, lot 24 was granted to the Rev. Mr. Stuart, and the next
to Mr. Herkimer, neither of whom had any connection with Captain Grass’
company.
The following extract of a letter written by Captain Grass, at a
subsequent period, reveals to us the appearance the place presented to
him, at the time of his settling. The old gentleman had some grievance
to make known to the public, respecting a road, and he commences his
communication thus:—
“Seven and twenty years, Mr. Printer, have rolled away since my eyes,
for the second time, beheld the shores of Cataraqui. In that space of
time, how many changes have taken place in the little circle in which
fate had destined me to move! How many of the seats of my old associates
are now vacant! How few of these alas! to mourn with me the loss of the
companions of our sufferings, or to rejoice with me at the prosperous
condition of this our land of refuge! Yet will I not repine; they are
gone, I trust, to a better land, where He who causeth the wilderness to
smile and blossom as the rose, hath assigned to them a distinguished
place, as a reward for their humble imitation of his labors. Yes! seven
and twenty years ago, scarce the vestige of a human habitation could be
found in the whole extent of the Bay of Quinté. Not a settler had dared
to penetrate the vast forests that skirted its shores. Even on this
spot, now covered with stately edifices, were to be seen only the
bark-thatched wigwam of the savage, or the newly erected tent of the
hardy loyalists. Then, when the ear heard me, it blessed me for being
strong in my attachment to my sovereign, and high in the confidence of
my fellow-subjects, I led the loyal band, I pointed out to them the site
of their future metropolis, and gained for persecuted principles, a
sanctuary—for myself and followers a home.” “Kingston, 7 Dec. 1811.”
(Signed) “G.”
On the 29th May, 1788, Lord Dorchester, the Governor of Canada, issued
instructions to John Collins, Surveyor, to make a survey of “forts,
harbours, &c., from Carleton Island to Michilmacinac.” His report was
found among the “Simcoe papers.” The report, dated Quebec, 6th Dec.,
1788, says:—
My Lord—“In obedience to your Lordship’s instructions, wherein is
specified, that doubts being entertained whether Carleton Island or
Kingston” (and this shows how early the royal name had been given to the
first township) “is the most eligible station for the King’s ships of
war to protect the navigation of Lake Ontario, and the upper part of the
river St. Lawrence, I am to make this particularly an object of my
attention, and report how far it may be necessary to occupy either, or
both, and what works I judge advisable for that purpose.” “With respect
to Kingston, and what is there called the harbour, and where the town is
laid out, is not the best, situation on this side for vessels, as it
lies rather open to the lake, and has not very good anchorage near the
entrance, so that they are obliged to run a good way up for shelter; the
most eligible situation is to the east.” After referring to the more
frequent directions of the wind, he concludes, that to get into the
lake, it is as easy from Kingston as from Carleton Island, but that the
latter affords the best shelter. “Having brought forward all the
material information and observations I have been able to make and
procure, and having duly weighed the several properties, both of
Kingston and Carleton Island, relative to naval purposes only,” he
concludes, “that the preference rather leans on the side of Carleton
Island. If the object was that of trade only, or regarded merely by the
transport of goods to Niagara, I do not see that Carleton Island has any
material advantage over Kingston; but, as a station for the King’s ships
of war, I am induced to think that Carleton Island is the best,” as it
possessed many natural advantages. Respecting Kingston, a fort and
out-works could be constructed to protect the harbour; but an enemy
might advance in the rear, and bombard the fort and the navy. “In regard
to the present condition of the works at this post, the whole is so far
in ruins as to be altogether defenceless, and incapable of being
repaired, the ditch which is in the rock, has never been sufficiently
excavated, the other works have been completed, but it strikes me they
were never capable of any serious defence, as well as from the bastions,
as well as the oblique manner in which their faces are seen from the
other works, but the whole could only be considered as a temporary
matter. The green logs with which the fort was built, could not be
expected to last long: the ground is favorable for a fort of greater
capacity and strength, but it is probable that such a system may have
been originally adopted for the works, at the place it might have been
thought adequate to its importance, to the number of troops designed for
its defence, and the strength it was likely an enemy would be able to
bring against it; and there ideas would again be brought into
consideration, if this post should be established, or any new system
adopted. Without, therefore, going, in this place, into a detail of
particular works, I will remark, that as the ground in front widens and
extends somewhat over the extremities of the work, particularly on the
right, precaution should be taken to strengthen those points towards the
field, to contract, in some degree, the advantage an enemy attacking
might have in the extent of his flanks. The barracks, although partly
dismantled, and in a very bad condition, may be still repaired.”
From the foregoing, it may be inferred that the troops had all been
withdrawn from the head of the St. Lawrence, and that only a
Commissariat Department remained at Carlton Island. Probably, it was
only when Canada was erected into a distinct Province, that regular
troops again were stationed here, and then, it having been ascertained
that Carleton Island would belong to the United States, Kingston
superseded it.
Although the “King’s Township” was mainly settled by the band of
Loyalists who came by way of the St. Lawrence, from New York, there were
several others who received grants of land here, a few of whom, no
doubt, reached Kingston at as early a date as 1783, and, as we have
seen, they may have visited the place, previous to that date. Among
these, was Col. Hanjost, or John Joost, or Joseph Herkimer, who had been
compelled to forsake his home at the German Flats, where his father
lived. Looking at “A Plan of Township No. 1,” (now Kingston), “in the
District of Mecklenburgh, surveyed in 1783, with the proprietor’s names
on the lots,” in the Crown Lands Department, the following may be
observed. Just by the grounds of the Fort, the water is called Cataraqui
Harbor. Across the mouth of the Bay, and between Points Frederick and
Henry, is Haldimand Cove. Beyond Point Henry, is Hamilton Cove. Passing
up the river, the first lot has upon it the name of Joseph and Mary
Brant. This lot was not numbered, however. (Capt. Brant came to the
place in 1785, and remained living there for a time). Still proceeding
along the west shore of the river, lot No. 1, has the name of Neil
McLean; No. 2, Henry Wales; No. 3, James Clark; No. 4, Capt. Crawford;
No. 5, Lieut. Brown; No. 6, Sovereign; No. 7, at first was granted to
Lawrence; this name is superseded by the name of Braton. To the west of
the road, is a block of land, of 700 acres, for “Capt. James McDonnell;”
but this name is erased, and Robert Macaulay written instead. Probably
Macaulay became the purchaser. To the east of the road, is another block
of land, for John Macaulay. The island in the mouth of the river, called
“Isle Aux Pére,” was granted to Neil McLean, “by order of General
Haldimand.” Turning to the south of the Fort, the first lot has the name
of Capt. Grass; the second from the Fort, Rev. Mr. Stuart; the third has
the names upon it of Lawrence Herkimer, Sam. Hilton, Capt. Jost Hartman;
the fourth, Francis Lozion, Rockland, James Brown, John Moshier; fifth,
Lieut. Ellerbeck; sixth, John Stuart, Lieut. Gallary, Lieut. Mower,
Charles Pauder; seventh, Capt. McGarrow; eighth, Lieutenant Atkinson;
ninth, Robert Vanalstine; tenth, Richard Moorman; eleventh, R. Gider:
this lot lies on the “Petite Cataraqui;” twelfth, Lieut. Kotte,
Surveyor, and afterward John Stuart; thirteenth, Capt. Grass, also Capt.
Everett; fourteenth, Grass; fifteenth, Capt. Harkman; sixteenth Nicholas
Herkimer. This brings us to Collins’ Bay, or, as the original name
appears “Ponegeg.” Continuing westward, among others, are to be seen the
names of Purdy, Capt. Wm. Johnson, Wm. Fairfield, Senr., Daniel Rose,
Matthias Rose, Robert Clark, James Clark, Sen., Sergt. John Taylor,
Capt. J. W. Myers, who has two lots; (these two last became the first
settlers in Sidney and Thurlow); Lieut. James Robins, Sergt. Williams,
Lieut. Best, Lieut. John Durenbury, and then there was a lot (No. 18)
for the “King’s saw mill,” subsequently Booth’s Mills. Of the foregoing,
it is uncertain how many became settlers. But the most of them seem to
have obtained these front lots, irrespective of Captain Grass.
Of the other early settlers, the following are, doubtless, the principal
ones. For their names, I am partially indebted to Mr. G. H. Detlor,
himself the descendant of an Irish Palatine. “Wm. MacAulay, Thomas
Markland, John Kirby, John Cummings, Peter Smith, England, John
Ferguson, Lyons, Pousett, McDonnell, Boyman, Cook, Taylor, Smyth,
DeNyke, Murney, Cuthbertson, Alcott. The Rev. John Stuart, Hon. Richard
Cartwright, Allen McLean.” These did not probably come the first year,
but within the first two or three years.
It is said that John Fralick or Freeligh, who had held a commission in
the army, was one of the first settlers in Kingston, and built the
fourth house erected. Other names given, as among the first inhabitants
of the village of Kingston, are John Forsyth, Joseph Forsyth, Anderson,
Punbee, Merrill, Stoughton, Gray, Hix, Cassady, Ashley, Burley, Stower,
Donald McDonald, James Richardson, Patrick Smith, John Steel, Ebenezer
Washburn. Early settlers on the front of the Township, beside those
before given, were Holmes, Day, Ferris, several Wartmans, and Graham.
Before proceeding with the history of Kingston, it is desirable to
notice more particularly some events connected with the occupancy of
Kingston, as a Naval and Military station. We have seen that Surveyor
Collins gave the preference for Carleton Island. But Lord Dorchester
decided that Kingston was the most desirable place for purposes of
defense, and it is a striking fact that the views held by him have been,
to a certain extent, reiterated by Gen. Michel, in 1867. Both seemed to
hold the opinion that Canada, west of Kingston, was untenable against an
invading foe. When Simcoe assumed the Government of the newly formed
Upper Province, it was the declared desire of Lord Dorchester, that he
should select Kingston as the capital, and make it a well fortified
town. Already steps had been taken to establish a naval as well as a
military station. Haldimand’s Cove, between Point Frederick and Point
Henry, had been selected for the Naval depot, and here was a Dock Yard
and Stores, which were continued for many years. These were commenced
about 1789, and the same year barracks were built by soldiers, upon the
ruins of the old fort, which was the commencement of the Military
Station, and the head-quarters of the troops in Upper Canada, and the
residence of the Commander-in-Chief; also a staff of the Ordinance and
Engineer Departments was kept up. Cooper, writing 1856, says: “Of late
years, a general reduction has been made,—a small garrison only is now
kept, and the Artillery is wholly withdrawn.” (This was at the time of
the Crimean war). The establishment was, some dozen years ago, greatly
reduced, and is now wholly abandoned. In years past, however, the
officers and crew of Her Majesty’s ship Niagara, were regularly piped to
quarters in a handsome stone building in the Dock Yard, which was
manned, and the crew disciplined in complete man-o’-war fashion. In
these bygone days, Kingston was the residence of the Commodore in charge
of the Naval Department, who lived in a style which would have quite
outshone that of some of our economical Governors. Those connected with
this and other departments, followed the worthy Commodore’s example, and
as the population was not then great, the influence of that example
rendered the town, if not a very prosperous, certainly a very gay, and
seemingly happy one. Times have certainly changed since then, as far as
the expenditure of Imperial money is concerned.
After Kingston had been selected as a military station, it naturally
grew more rapidly. The presence of the soldiers and of seamen, and their
expenditure of money, had the effect of starting into quicker life, the
infant town; but when Simcoe, in 1792, passed it by, and sought his
gubernatorial residence at Newark, it received a material check in its
growth. Being the largest collection of houses in Upper Canada, Kingston
had claims, irrespective of the existence of the two arms of the
service. During the first decade in the history of Upper Canada,
Kingston did not rise above a small village, although it was honoured,
sometimes, with the appellation of “city.” Rochefoucault says, 1795,
that Kingston “consists of about 120 or 30 houses. The ground in the
immediate vicinity of the city, rises with a gentle swell, and forms,
from the lake onwards, as it were, an amphitheatre of lands, cleared,
but not yet cultivated. None of the buildings are distinguished by a
more handsome appearance from the rest. The only structure, more
conspicuous than the others, and in front of which the English flag is
hoisted, is the barracks, a stone building surrounded with palisades.
All the houses stand on the northern bank of the bay, which stretches a
mile further into the country. On the southern bank are the buildings
belonging to the naval force, the wharfs, and the habitations of all the
persons, who belong to that department. The King’s ships lie at anchor
near those buildings, and consequently have a harbour and road separate
from the port for merchantmen.”
“Kingston, considered as a town, is much inferior to Newark; the number
of houses is nearly equal in both. Kingston may contain a few more
buildings, but they are neither so large nor so good as at Newark. Many
of them are log houses, and those which consist of joiners’ work, are
badly constructed and painted. But few new houses are built. No
town-hall, no court-house, and no prison have hitherto been constructed.
The houses of two or three merchants are conveniently situated for
loading and unloading ships; but, in point of constructure, these are
not better than the rest.
“Kingston seems better fitted for a trading town than Newark, were it
only for this reason, that the ships, which arrive at the latter place,
and are freighted for Lake Erie, pass by the former, to sail again up
the river as far as Queen’s Town, where the portage begins.”
Cooper remarks that “Fort Frontenac existed for several years after the
conquest, the remains of the tower in the interior being removed in
1827. The present barracks were built, the officers’ quarters in 1821,
the men’s stone barracks in 1827, and the frame barracks in 1837. At the
commencement of the war in 1812, Point Henry, the site of the present
extensive military works, was covered with trees; in the following year
a rude fort of logs and embankment was thrown up. A year or two after
its erection two large and substantial stone towers were added to the
defences, they were lofty, square towers, rounded at the corners. These
remained until 1826 or 1828. Stone magazines, ordnance offices, and
armoury were built outside the fort during the years 1816, ‘17 and ‘18.
Extensive stone barracks, roofed with tin, were built between 1818 and
1820; one of these within the fort was 230 feet in length; another
building which stood where the advanced battery has since been built,
was 80 feet in length, and formed the officers’ quarters.
“These barracks stood until 1841, when they were pulled down and the
material sold. Two large houses in Brock Street, and one in Barrack
Street, were built from the stone, which, it may be remarked in passing,
is not the ordinary blue limestone in general use, but a much whiter
material, apparently not so durable. The erection of the present fort
was commenced in 1832, several previous years having been spent in the
quarrying and preparing material. It was first occupied in 1836. On
Point Frederick the first works were a breastwork of logs and earth,
with traversing platforms for guns; within the breastwork was a block
house. These works were built during or just after the war; this block
house was burnt in the year 1820. There were also built, about the same
time, a block house surrounded with a strong stockade on the hill on
Princess Street, on the lot formerly owned by the late Mr. Jacob Ritter;
a small redan on Ordnance Street; a battery at Mississauga Point; a
block house near the present Marine Railway; one on Stuart’s or Murney’s
Point; another at Snake Island; one which stood until recently, near the
present new court house, with those now standing, one of them on the
hill to the east of the city, and the other at the west end of
Wellington Street. These block houses, excepting, of course, that on
Snake Island, were all connected by a strong stake fence, or stockade;
portions of which still exist, and formed a chain of defences
surrounding, what was then, the whole city.”
From the first, it will be seen that the village of Kingston was to a
great extent indebted to the public service for its prosperity. Isaac
Wild, writing in 1796, says that from 60 to 100 men are quartered in the
barracks.