If the great cities of the East and Middle West are not strikingly

sportive, perhaps the reason is that they are impassioned theater-goers;

they could not well be both, at any rate without neglecting the

financial pursuits which are their chief real amusement and hobby. I

mention the theaters in connection with sports, rather than in

connection with the arts, because the American drama is more closely

related to sporting diversions than to dramatic art. If this seems a

hard saying, I will add that I am ready to apply it with similar force

to the English and French drama, and, indeed, to almost all modern drama

outside Germany. It was astonishing to me that America, unhampered by

English traditions, should take seriously, for instance, the fashionable

and utterly meretricious French dramatists, who receive nothing but a

chilly ridicule from people of genuine discrimination in Paris. Whatever

American dramatists have to learn, they will not learn it in Paris; and

I was charmed once to hear a popular New York playwright, one who

sincerely and frankly wrote for money alone, assert boldly that the

notoriously successful French plays were bad, and clumsily bad. It was a

proof of taste. As a rule, one finds the popular playwright taking off

his hat to contemporaries who at best are no better than his equals.

A few minor cases apart, the drama is artistically negligible throughout

the world; but if there is a large hope for it in any special country,

that country is the United States. The extraordinary prevalence of big

theaters, the quickly increasing number of native dramatists, the

enormous profits of the successful ones--it is simply inconceivable in

the face of the phenomena, and of the educational process so rapidly

going on, that serious and first-class creative artists shall not arise

in America. Nothing is more likely to foster the production of

first-class artists than the existence of a vast machinery for winning

money and glory. When I reflect that there are nearly twice as many

first-class theaters in New York as in London, and that a very

successful play in New York plays to eighteen thousand dollars a week,

while in London ten thousand dollars a week is enormous, and that the

American public has a preference for its own dramatists, I have little

fear for the artistic importance of the drama of the future in America.

And from the discrepancy between my own observations and the

observations of a reliable European critic in New York only five years

ago, I should imagine that appreciable progress had already been made,

though I will not pretend that I was much impressed by the achievements

up to date, either of playwrights, actors, or audiences. A huge popular

institution, however, such as the American theatrical system, is always

interesting to the amateur of human nature.

The first thing noted by the curious stranger in American theaters is

that American theatrical architects have made a great discovery--namely,

that every member of the audience goes to the play with a desire to be

able to see and hear what passes on the stage. This happy American

discovery has not yet announced itself in Europe, where in almost every

theater seats are impudently sold, and idiotically bought, from which it

is impossible to see and hear what passes on the stage. (A remarkable

continent, Europe!) Apart from this most important point, American

theaters are not, either without or within, very attractive. The

auditoriums, to a European, have a somewhat dingy air. Which air is no

doubt partly due to the non-existence of a rule in favor of evening

dress (never again shall I gird against the rule in Europe!), but it is

due also to the oddly inefficient illumination during the entr'actes,

and to the unsatisfactory schemes of decoration.

The interior of a theater ought to be magnificent, suggesting pleasure,

luxury, and richness; it ought to create an illusion of rather riotous

grandeur. The rare architects who have understood this seem to have lost

their heads about it, with such wild and capricious results as the new

opera-house in Philadelphia. I could not restrain my surprise that the

inhabitants of the Quaker City had not arisen with pickaxes and razed

this architectural extravaganza to the ground. But Philadelphia is a

city startlingly unlike its European reputation. Throughout my too-brief

sojourn in it I did not cease to marvel at its liveliness. I heard more

picturesque and pyrotechnic wit at one luncheon in Philadelphia than at

any two repasts outside it. The spacious gaiety and lavishness of its

marts enchanted me. It must have a pretty weakness for the most costly

old books and manuscripts. I never was nearer breaking the Sixth

Commandment than in one of its homes, where the Countess of Pembroke's

own copy of Sir Philip Sidney's _Arcadia_--a unique and utterly

un-Quakerish treasure--was laid trustfully in my hands by the regretted

and charming Harry Widener.

To return. The Metropolitan Opera-House in New York is a much more

satisfactory example of a theatrical interior. Indeed, it is very fine,

especially when strung from end to end of its first tier with pearls, as

I saw it. Impossible to find fault with its mundane splendor. And let me

urge that impeccable mundane splendor, despite facile arguments to the

contrary, is a very real and worthy achievement. It is regrettable, by

the way, that the entrances and foyers to these grandiose interiors

should be so paltry, slatternly, and inadequate. If the entrances to the

great financial establishments reminded me of opera-houses, the

entrances to opera-houses did not!

Artistically, of course, the spectacle of a grand-opera season in an

American city is just as humiliating as it is in the other Anglo-Saxon

country. It was disconcerting to see Latin or German opera given

exactly--with no difference at all; same Latin or German artists and

conductors, same conventions, same tricks--in New York or Philadelphia

as in Europe. And though the wealthy audiences behaved better than

wealthy audiences at Covent Garden (perhaps because the boxes are less

like inclosed pews than in London), it was mortifying to detect the

secret disdain for art which was expressed in the listless late

arrivings and the relieved early departures. The which disdain for art

was, however, I am content to think, as naught in comparison with the

withering artistic disdain felt, and sometimes revealed, by those Latin

and German artists for Anglo-Saxon Philistinism. I seem to be able to

read the sarcastic souls of these accomplished and sensitive aliens,

when they assure newspaper reporters that New York, Chicago, Boston,

Philadelphia, and London are really musical. The sole test of a musical

public is that it should be capable of self-support--I mean that it

should produce a school of creative and executive artists of its own,

whom it likes well enough to idolize and to enrich, and whom the rest of

the world will respect. This is a test which can be safely applied to

Germany, Russia, Italy, and France. And in certain other arts it is a

test which can be applied to Anglo-Saxondom--but not in music. In

America and England music is still mainly a sportive habit.

When I think of the exoticism of grand opera in New York, my mind at

once turns, in contrast, to the natural raciness of such modest

creations as those offered by Mr. George Cohan at his theater on

Broadway. Here, in an extreme degree, you get a genuine instance of a

public demand producing the desired artist on the spot. Here is

something really and honestly and respectably American. And why it

should be derided by even the most lofty pillars of American taste, I

cannot imagine. (Or rather, I can imagine quite well.) For myself, I

spent a very agreeable evening in witnessing "The Little Millionaire." I

was perfectly conscious of the blatancy of the methods that achieved it.

I saw in it no mark of genius. But I did see in it a very various talent

and an all-round efficiency; and, beneath the blatancy, an admirable

direct simplicity and winning unpretentiousness. I liked the ingenuity

of the device by which, in the words of the programme, the action of Act

II was "not interrupted by musical numbers." The dramatic construction

of this act was so consistently clever and right and effective that more

ambitious dramatists might study it with advantage. Another

point--though the piece was artistically vulgar, it was not vulgar

otherwise. It contained no slightest trace of the outrageous salacity

and sottishness which disfigure the great majority of successful musical

comedies. It was an honest entertainment. But to me its chief value and

interest lay in the fact that while watching it I felt that I was really

in New York, and not in Vienna, Paris, or London.

Of the regular theater I did not see nearly enough to be able to

generalize even for my own private satisfaction. I observed, and

expected to observe, that the most reactionary quarters were the most

respected. It is the same everywhere. When a manager, having discovered

that two real clocks in one real room never strike simultaneously, put

two real clocks on the stage, and made one strike after the other; or

when a manager mimicked, with extraordinary effects of restlessness, a

life-sized telephone-exchange on the stage--then was I bound to hear of

"artistic realism" and "a fine production"! But such feats of

truthfulness do not consort well with chocolate sentimentalities and

wilful falsities of action and dialogue. They caused me to doubt whether

I was not in London.

The problem-plays which I saw were just as futile and exasperating as

the commercial English and French varieties of the problem-play, though

they had a trifling advantage over the English in that their most

sentimental passages were lightened by humor, and the odiously insincere

felicity of their conclusions was left to the imagination instead of

being acted ruthlessly out on the boards. The themes of these plays

showed the usual obsession, and were manipulated in the usual attempt to

demonstrate that the way of transgressors is not so very hard after all.

They threw, all unconsciously, strange side-lights on the American man's

private estimate of the American woman, and the incidence of the

applause was extremely instructive.

The most satisfactory play that I saw, "Bought and Paid For," by George

Broadhurst, was not a problem-play, though Mr. Broadhurst is also a

purveyor of problem-plays. It was just an unpretentious fairy-tale about

the customary millionaire and the customary poor girl. The first act

was maladroit, but the others made me think that "Bought and Paid For"

was one of the best popular commercial Anglo-Saxon plays I had ever seen

anywhere. There were touches of authentic realism at the very crisis at

which experience had taught one to expect a crass sentimentality. The

fairy-tale was well told, with some excellent characterization, and very

well played. Indeed, Mr. Frank Craven's rendering of the incompetent

clerk was a masterly and unforgettable piece of comedy. I enjoyed

"Bought and Paid For," and it is on the faith of such plays, imperfect

and timid as they are, that I establish my prophecy of a more glorious

hereafter for the American drama.

VII

EDUCATION AND ART

I had my first glimpses of education in America from the purser of an

illustrious liner, who affirmed the existence of a dog--in fact, his own

dog--so highly educated that he habitually followed and understood human

conversations, and that in order to keep secrets from the animal it was

necessary to spell out the keyword of a sentence instead of pronouncing

it. After this I seemed somehow to be prepared for the American infant

who, when her parents discomfited her just curiosity by the same mean

adult dodge of spelling words, walked angrily out of the room with the

protest: "There's too blank much education in this house for me!"

Nevertheless, she proudly and bravely set herself to learn to spell;

whereupon her parents descended to even worse depths of baseness, and in

her presence would actually whisper in each other's ear. She merely

inquired, with grimness: "What's the good of being educated, anyway?

First you spell words, and when I can spell then you go and whisper!"

And received no adequate answer, naturally.

This captivating creature, whose society I enjoyed at frequent intervals

throughout my stay in America, was a mirror in which I saw the whole

American race of children--their independence, their self-confidence,

their adorable charm, and their neat sauciness. "What _is_ father?" she

asked one day. Now her father happened to be one of the foremost

humorists in the United States; she was baldly informed that he was a

humorist. "What _is_ a humorist?" she went on, ruthlessly, and learned

that a humorist was a person who wrote funny things to make people

laugh. "Well," she said, "I don't honestly think he's very funny at

home." It was naught to her that humorists are not paid to be funny at

home, and that in truth they never under any circumstances are very

funny at home. She just hurled her father from his niche--and then went

forth and boasted of him as a unique peculiarity in fathers, as an

unrivaled ornament of her career on earth; for no other child in the

vicinity had a professional humorist for parent. Her gestures and accent

typified for me the general attitude of youngest America, in process of

education, toward the older generation: an astonishing, amusing,

exquisite, incomprehensible mixture of affection, admiration, trust, and

rather casual tolerating scorn. The children of most countries display a

similar phenomenon, but in America the phenomenon is more acute and

disconcerting than elsewhere.

One noon, in perfect autumn weather, I was walking down the main road of

a residential suburb, and observing the fragile-wheeled station-wagons,

and the ice-wagons enormously labeled "DANGER" (perhaps by the gastric

experts of the medical faculty), and the Colonial-style dwellings, and

the "tinder" boarding-houses, and the towering boot-shine stands, and

the roast-chestnut emporia, and the gasometers flanking a noble and

beautiful river--I was observing all this when a number of young men and

maids came out of a high-school and unconsciously assumed possession of

the street. It was a great and impressive sight; it was a delightful

sight. They were so sure of themselves, the maids particularly; so

interested in themselves, so happy, so eager, so convinced (without any

conceit) that their importance transcended all other importances, so

gently pitiful toward men and women of forty-five, and so positive that

the main function of elders was to pay school-fees, that I was thrilled

thereby. Seldom has a human spectacle given me such exciting pleasure as

this gave. (And they never suspected it, those preoccupied demigods!) It

was the sheer pride of life that I saw passing down the street and

across the badly laid tram-lines! I had never seen anything like it. I

immediately desired to visit schools. Profoundly ignorant of educational

methods, and with a strong distaste for teaching, I yet wanted to know

and understand all about education in America in one moment--the

education that produced that superb stride and carriage in the street! I

failed, of course, in my desire--not from lack of facilities offered,

but partly from lack of knowledge to estimate critically what I saw, and

from lack of time. My experiences, however, though they left my mind

full of enigmas, were wondrous. I asked to inspect one of the best

schools in New York. Had I been a dispassionate sociological student, I

should probably have asked to inspect one of the worst schools in New

York--perhaps one of the gaunt institutions to be found, together with a

cinema-palace and a bank, in almost every block on the East Side. But I

asked for one of the best, and I was shown the Horace Mann School.

* * * * *

The Horace Mann School proved to be a palace where a thousand children

and their teachers lived with extreme vivacity in an atmosphere of ozone

from which all draughts and chilliness had been eliminated. As a

malcontent native of the Isle of Chilly Draughts, this attribute of the

atmosphere of the Horace Mann School impressed me. Dimensionally I found

that the palace had a beginning but no end. I walked through leagues of

corridors and peeped into unnumbered class-rooms, in each of which

children were apparently fiercely dragging knowledge out of nevertheless

highly communicative teachers; and the children got bigger and bigger,

and then diminished for a while, and then grew again, and kept on

growing, until I at last entered a palatial kitchen where some two dozen

angels, robed in white but for the moment uncrowned, were eagerly

crowding round a paradisiacal saucepan whose magic contents formed the

subject of a lecture by one of them. Now these angels were not cherubs;

they were full grown; they never would be any taller than they were; and

I asked up to what age angels were kept at school in America. Whereupon

I learned that I had insensibly passed from the school proper into a

training-school for teachers; but at what point the school proper ended

I never did learn. It seems to me that if I had penetrated through seven

more doors I should have reached Columbia University itself, without

having crossed a definite dividing-line; and, anyhow, the circumstance

was symbolic.

Reluctantly I left the incredible acres of technical apparatus

munificently provided in America for the training of teachers, and,

having risen to the roof and seen infants thereon grabbing at

instruction in the New York breeze, I came again to the more normal

regions of the school. Here, as everywhere else in the United States

(save perhaps the cloak-room department of the Metropolitan

Opera-House), what chiefly struck me was the brilliant organization of

the organism. There was nothing that had not been thought of. A

handsomely dressed mother came into the organism and got as far as the

antechamber of the principal's room. The organization had foreseen her,

had divined that that mother's child was the most important among a

thousand children--indeed, the sole child of any real importance--had

arranged that her progress should be arrested at just that stage, and

had stationed a calm and diplomatic woman to convince her that her child

was indeed the main preoccupation of the Horace Mann School. A pretty

sight--the interview! It charmed me as the sight of an ingenious engine

in motion will charm an engineer.

The individual class-rooms, in some of which I lingered at leisure, were

tonic, bracing, inspiring, and made me ashamed because I was not young.

I saw geography being taught with the aid of a stereoscopic

magic-lantern. After a view of the high street of a village in North

Russia had been exposed and explained by a pupil, the teacher said: "If

anybody has any questions to ask, let him stand up." And the whole class

leaped furiously to its feet, blotting out the entire picture with black

shadows of craniums and starched pinafores. The whole class might have

been famishing. In another room I saw the teaching of English

composition. Although when I went to school English composition was

never taught, I have gradually acquired a certain interest in the

subject, and I feel justified in asserting that the lesson was admirably

given. It was, in fact, the best example of actual pedagogy that I met

with in the United States. "Now can any one tell me--" began the

mistress. A dozen arms of boys and girls shot up with excessive

violence, and, having shot up, they wiggled and waggled with ferocious

impatience in the air; it was a miracle that they remained attached to

their respective trunks; it was assuredly an act of daring on the part

of the intrepid mistress to choose between them.

"How children have changed since my time!" I said to the principal

afterward. "We never used to fling up our hands like that. We just put

them up.... But perhaps it's because they're Americans--"

"It's probably because of the ventilation," said the principal, calmly

corrective. "We never have the windows open winter or summer, but the

ventilation is perfect."

I perceived that it indeed must be because of the ventilation.

More and more startled, as I went along, by the princely lavishness of

every arrangement, I ventured to surmise that it must all cost a great

deal.

"The fees are two hundred and eighty-five dollars in the Upper School."

"Yes, I expected they would be high," I said.

"Not at all. They are the lowest in New York. Smart private schools

will charge five or six hundred dollars a year."

Exhausted, humbled, I at last quitted the warmed Horace Mann ozone for

the harsh and searching atmosphere of the street. And I gazed up at the

pile, and saw all its interiors again in my mind. I had not grasped the

half nor the quarter of what had been so willingly and modestly shown to

me. I had formed no theory as to the value of some of the best juvenile

education in the Eastern States. But I had learned one thing. I knew the

secret of the fine, proud bearing of young America. A child is not a

fool; a child is almost always uncannily shrewd. And when it sees a

splendid palace provided for it, when it sees money being showered upon

hygienic devices for its comfort, even upon trifles for its distraction,

when it sees brains all bent on discovering the best, nicest ways of

dealing with its instincts, when it sees itself the center of a

magnificent pageant, ritual, devotion, almost worship, it naturally

lifts its chin, puts its shoulders back, steps out with a spring, and

glances down confidently upon the whole world. Who wouldn't?

* * * * *

It was an exciting day for me when I paid a call next door to Horace

Mann and visited Columbia University. For this was my first visit of

inspection to any university of any kind, either in the New World or in

the Old. As for an English university education, destiny had deprived me

of its advantages and of its perils. I could not haughtily compare

Columbia with Oxford or Cambridge, because I had never set foot even in

their towns. I had no standards whatever of comparison.

I arose and went out to lunch on that morning, and left the lunch before

anybody else and rushed in an automobile to Columbia; but football had

already begun for the day in the campus costing two million dollars, and

classes were over. I saw five or more universities while I was in

America, but I was not clever enough to catch one of them in the act of

instruction. What I did see was the formidable and magnificent machine,

the apparatus of learning, supine in repose.

And if the spectacle was no more than a promise, it was a very dazzling

promise. No European with any imagination could regard Columbia as other

than a miracle. Nearly the whole of the gigantic affair appeared to have

been brought into being, physically, in less than twenty years. Building

after building, device after device, was dated subsequent to 1893. And

to my mind that was just the point of the gigantic affair. Universities

in Europe are so old. And there are universities in America which are

venerable. A graduate of the most venerable of them told me that

Columbia was not "really" a university. Well, it did seem unreal, though

not in his sense; it seemed magic. The graduate in question told me that

a university could not be created by a stroke of the wand. And yet there

staring me in the face was the evidence that a university not merely

could be created by a stroke of the wand, but had been. (I am aware of

Columbia's theoretic age and of her insistence on it.) The wand is a

modern invention; to deny its effective creative faculty is absurd.

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