Arrives in Weimar. Liszt at the Theatre. At a Party. At his own
House.
WEIMAR, _May 1, 1873_.
Last night I arrived in Weimar, and this evening I have been to the
theatre, which is very cheap here, and the first person I saw, sitting
in a box opposite, was Liszt, from whom, as you know, I am bent on
getting lessons, though it will be a difficult thing I fear, as I am
told that Weimar is overcrowded with people who are on the same errand.
I recognized Liszt from his portrait, and it entertained and interested
me very much to observe him. He was making himself agreeable to three
ladies, one of whom was very pretty. He sat with his back to the stage,
not paying the least attention, apparently, to the play, for he kept
talking all the while himself, and yet no point of it escaped him, as I
could tell by his expression and gestures.
Liszt is the most interesting and striking looking man imaginable. Tall
and slight, with deep-set eyes, shaggy eyebrows, and long iron-gray
hair, which he wears parted in the middle. His mouth turns up at the
corners, which gives him a most crafty and Mephistophelean expression
when he smiles, and his whole appearance and manner have a sort of
Jesuitical elegance and ease. His hands are very narrow, with long and
slender fingers that look as if they had twice as many joints as other
people's. They are so flexible and supple that it makes you nervous to
look at them. Anything like the polish of his manner I never saw. When
he got up to leave the box, for instance, after his adieux to the
ladies, he laid his hand on his heart and made his final bow,--not with
affectation, or in mere gallantry, but with a quiet courtliness which
made you feel that no other way of bowing to a lady was right or proper.
It was most characteristic.
But the most extraordinary thing about Liszt is his wonderful variety of
expression and play of feature. One moment his face will look dreamy,
shadowy, tragic. The next he will be insinuating, amiable, ironical,
sardonic; but always the same captivating grace of manner. He is a
perfect study. I cannot imagine how he must look when he is playing. He
is all spirit, but half the time, at least, a mocking spirit, I should
say. I have heard the most remarkable stories about him already. All
Weimar adores him, and people say that women still go perfectly crazy
over him. When he walks out he bows to everybody just like a King! The
Grand Duke has presented him with a house beautifully situated on the
park, and here he lives elegantly, free of expense, whenever he chooses
to come to it.
* * *
WEIMAR, _May 7, 1873_.
There isn't a piano to be had in Weimar for love or money, as there is
no manufactory, and the few there were to be disposed of were snatched
up before I got here. So I have lost an entire week in hunting one up,
and was obliged to go first to Erfurt and finally to Leipsic, before I
could find one--and even that was sent over as a favour after much
coaxing and persuasion. I felt so happy when I fairly saw it in my room!
As if I had taken a city! However, I met Liszt two evenings ago at a
little tea-party given by a friend and _protégée_ of his to as many of
his scholars as have arrived, I being asked with the rest. Liszt
promised to come late. We only numbered seven. There were three young
men and four young ladies, of whom three, including myself, were
Americans. Five of the number had studied with Liszt before, and the
young men are artists already before the public.
To fill up the time till Liszt came, our hostess made us play, one after
the other, beginning with the latest arrival. After we had each
"exhibited," little tables were brought in and supper served. We were in
the midst of it, and having a merry time, when the door suddenly opened
and Liszt appeared. We all rose to our feet, and he shook hands with
everybody without waiting to be introduced. Liszt looks as if he had
been through everything, and has a face _seamed_ with experience. He is
rather tall and narrow, and wears a long abbé's coat reaching nearly
down to his feet. He made me think of an old time magician more than
anything, and I felt that with a touch of his wand he could transform us
all. After he had finished his greetings, he passed into the next room
and sat down. The young men gathered round him and offered him a cigar,
which he accepted and began to smoke. We others continued our nonsense
where we were, and I suppose Liszt overheard some of our brilliant
conversation, for he asked who we were, I think, and presently the lady
of the house came out after Miss W. and me, the two American strangers,
to take us in and present us to him.
After the preliminary greetings we had some little talk. He asked me if
I had been to Sophie Menter's concert in Berlin the other day. I said
yes. He remarked that Miss Menter was a great favourite of his, and that
the lady from whom I had brought a letter to him had done a good deal
for her. I asked him if Sophie Menter were a pupil of his. He said no,
he could not take the credit of her artistic success to himself. I heard
afterwards that he really had done ever so much for her, but he won't
have it said that he teaches! After he had finished his cigar, Liszt got
up and said, "America is now to have the floor," and requested Miss W.
to play for him. This was a dreadful ordeal for us new arrivals, for we
had not expected to be called upon. I began to quake inwardly, for I had
been without a piano for nearly a week, and was not at all prepared to
play to him, while Miss W. had been up since five o'clock in the
morning, and had travelled all day. However, there was no getting off. A
request from Liszt is a command, and Miss W. sat down, and acquitted
herself as well as could have been expected under the circumstances.
Liszt waved his hand and nodded his head from time to time, and seemed
pleased, I thought. He then called upon Leitert, who played a
composition of Liszt's own most beautifully. Liszt commended him and
patted him on the back. As soon as Leitert had finished, I slipped off
into the back room, hoping Liszt would forget all about me, but he
followed me almost immediately, like a cat with a mouse, took both my
hands in his, and said in the most winning way imaginable,
"_Mademoiselle, vous jouerez quelque-chose, n'est-ce-pas?_" I can't give
you any idea of his _persuasiveness_, when he chooses. It is enough to
decoy you into anything. It was such a desperate moment that I became
reckless, and without even telling him that I was out of practice and
not prepared to play, I sat down and plunged into the A flat major
Ballade of Chopin, as if I were possessed. The piano had a splendid
touch, luckily. Liszt kept calling out "Bravo" every minute or two, to
encourage me, and somehow, I got through. When I had finished, he
clapped his hands and said, "Bravely played." He asked with whom I had
studied, and made one or two little criticisms. I hoped he would shove
me aside and play it himself, but he didn't.
Liszt is just like a monarch, and no one dares speak to him until he
addresses one first, which I think no fun. He did not play to us at all,
except when some one asked him if he had heard R. play that afternoon.
R. is a young organist from Leipsic, who telegraphed to Liszt to ask him
if he might come over and play to him on the organ. Liszt, with his
usual amiability, answered that he might. "Oh," said Liszt, with an
indescribably comic look, "he improvised for me a whole half-hour in
this style,"--and then he got up and went to the piano, and without
sitting down he played some ridiculous chords in the middle of the
key-board, and then little trills and turns high up in the treble, which
made us all burst out laughing. Shortly after I had played I took my
leave. Liszt had gone into the other room to smoke, and I didn't care to
follow him, as I saw that he was tired, and had no intention of playing
to us. Our hostess told Miss W. and me to "slip out so that he would not
perceive it." Yesterday Miss W. went to see him, and he asked her if she
knew that Miss "Fy," and told her to tell me to come to him. So I shall
present myself to-morrow, though I don't know how the lion will act when
I beard him in his den.
* * *
WEIMAR, _May 21, 1873_.
Liszt is so _besieged_ by people and so tormented with applications,
that I fear I should only have been sent away if I had come without the
Baroness von S.'s letter of introduction, for he admires her extremely,
and I judge that she has much influence with him. He says "people fly in
his face by dozens," and seem to think he is "only there to give
lessons." He gives _no_ paid lessons whatever, as he is much too grand
for that, but if one has talent enough, or pleases him, he lets one come
to him and play to him. I go to him every other day, but I don't play
more than twice a week, as I cannot prepare so much, but I listen to the
others. Up to this point there have been only four in the class besides
myself, and I am the only new one. From four to six P. M. is the time
when he receives his scholars. The first time I went I did not play to
him, but listened to the rest. Urspruch and Leitert, the two young men
whom I met the other night, have studied with Liszt a long time, and
both play superbly. Fräulein Schultz and Miss Gaul (of Baltimore), are
also most gifted creatures.
As I entered Liszt's salon, Urspruch was performing Schumann's Symphonic
Studies--an immense composition, and one that it took at least half an
hour to get through. He played so splendidly that my heart sank down
into the very depths. I thought I should never get on _there_! Liszt
came forward and greeted me in a very friendly manner as I entered. He
was in very good humour that day, and made some little witticisms.
Urspruch asked him what title he should give to a piece he was
composing. "_Per aspera ad astra_," said Liszt. This was such a good hit
that I began to laugh, and he seemed to enjoy my appreciation of his
little sarcasm. I did not play that time, as my piano had only just
come, and I was not prepared to do so, but I went home and practiced
tremendously for several days on Chopin's B minor sonata. It is a great
composition, and one of his last works. When I thought I could play it,
I went to Liszt, though with a trembling heart. I cannot tell you what
it has cost me every time I have ascended his stairs. I can scarcely
summon up courage to go there, and generally stand on the steps awhile
before I can make up my mind to open the door and go in!
This day it was particularly trying, as it was really my first serious
performance before him, and he speaks so very indistinctly that I
feared I shouldn't understand his corrections, and that he would get out
of patience with me, for he cannot bear to explain. I think he hates the
trouble of speaking German, for he mutters his words and does not half
finish his sentences. Yesterday when I was there he spoke to me in
French all the time, and to the others in German,--one of his funny
whims, I suppose.
Well, on this day the artists Leitert and Urspruch, and the young
composer Metzdorf, who is always hanging about Liszt, were in the room
when I came. They had probably been playing. At first Liszt took no
notice of me beyond a greeting, till Metzdorf said to him, "Herr Doctor,
Miss Fay has brought a sonata." "Ah, well, let us hear it," said Liszt.
Just then he left the room for a minute, and I told the three gentlemen
that they ought to go away and let me play to Liszt alone, for I felt
nervous about playing before them. They all laughed at me and said they
would not budge an inch. When Liszt came back they said to him, "Only
think, Herr Doctor, Miss Fay proposes to send us all home." I said I
could not play before such great artists. "Oh, that is healthy for you,"
said Liszt, with a smile, and added, "you have a very choice audience,
now." I don't know whether he appreciated how nervous I was, but instead
of walking up and down the room as he often does, he sat down by me like
any other teacher, and heard me play the first movement. It was
frightfully hard, but I had studied it so much that I managed to get
through with it pretty successfully. Nothing could exceed Liszt's
amiability, or the trouble he gave himself, and instead of frightening
me, he inspired me. Never was there such a delightful teacher! and he is
the first sympathetic one I've had. You feel so _free_ with him, and he
develops the very spirit of music in you. He doesn't keep nagging at you
all the time, but he leaves you your own conception. Now and then he
will make a criticism, or play a passage, and with a few words give you
enough to think of all the rest of your life. There is a delicate
_point_ to everything he says, as subtle as he is himself. He doesn't
tell you anything about the technique. That you must work out for
yourself. When I had finished the first movement of the sonata, Liszt,
as he always does, said "Bravo!" Taking my seat, he made some little
criticisms, and then told me to go on and play the rest of it.
Now, I only half knew the other movements, for the first one was so
extremely difficult that it cost me all the labour I could give to
prepare that. But playing to Liszt reminds me of trying to feed the
elephant in the Zoological Garden with lumps of sugar. He disposes of
whole movements as if they were nothing, and stretches out gravely for
more! One of my fingers fortunately began to bleed, for I had practiced
the skin off, and that gave me a good excuse for stopping. Whether he
was pleased at this proof of industry, I know not; but after looking at
my finger and saying, "Oh!" very compassionately, he sat down and played
the whole three last movements himself. That was a great deal, and
showed off all his powers. It was the first time I had heard him, and I
don't know which was the most extraordinary,--the Scherzo, with its
wonderful lightness and swiftness, the Adagio with its depth and pathos,
or the last movement, where the whole key-board seemed to "_donnern und
blitzen_ (thunder and lighten)." There is such a vividness about
everything he plays that it does not seem as if it were mere music you
were listening to, but it is as if he had called up a real, living
_form_, and you saw it breathing before your face and eyes. It gives
_me_ almost a ghostly feeling to hear him, and it seems as if the air
were peopled with spirits. Oh, he is a perfect wizard! It is as
interesting to see him as it is to hear him, for his face changes with
every modulation of the piece, and he looks exactly as he is playing. He
has one element that is most captivating, and that is, a sort of
delicate and fitful mirth that keeps peering out at you here and there!
It is most peculiar, and when he plays that way, the most bewitching
little expression comes over his face. It seems as if a little spirit of
joy were playing hide and go seek with you.
On Friday Liszt came and paid me a visit, and even played a little on my
piano.--Only think what an honour! At the same time he told me to come
to him that afternoon and play to him, and invited me also to a matinee
he was going to give on Sunday for some countess of distinction who was
here for a few days. None of the other scholars were asked, and when I
entered the room there were only three persons in it beside Liszt. One
was the Grand Duke himself, the other was the Countess von M. (born a
Russian Princess), and the third was a Russian minister's wife. They
were all four standing in a little knot, speaking in French together. I
had no idea who they were, as the Grand Duke was in morning costume, and
had no star or decoration to distinguish him. I saw at a glance,
however, that they were all swells, and so I didn't speak to any of
them, luckily, though it was an even chance that I had not said
something to avoid the awkwardness of standing there like a post, for I
had been told beforehand that Liszt never introduced people to each
other. Liszt greeted me in a very friendly manner, and introduced me to
the countess, but she was so dreadfully set up that it was impossible to
get more than a few icy words out of her. I was thankful enough when
more people arrived, so that I could retire to a corner and sit down
without being observed, for it was a very uncomfortable situation to be
standing, a stranger, close to four fashionables and not dare to speak
to _any_ of them because they did not address me.
After the company was all assembled, it numbered eighteen persons,
nearly all of whom were titled. I was the only unimportant one in it.
Liszt was so sweet. He kept coming over to where I sat and talking to
me, and promised me a ticket for a private concert where only his
compositions were to be performed. He seemed determined to make me feel
at home. He played five times, but no _great_ work, which was a
disappointment to me, particularly as the last three times he played
duetts with a leading Weimar artist named Lassen, who was present. He
made me come and turn the leaves. Gracious! how he _does_ read! It is
very difficult to turn for him, for he reads ever so far ahead of what
he is playing, and takes in fully five bars at a glance, so you have to
guess about where you _think_ he would like to have the page over. Once
I turned it too late, and once too early, and he snatched it out of my
hand and whirled it back.--Not quite the situation for timorous me, was
it?
May 21.--To-day being my birthday, I thought I must go to Liszt by way
of celebration. I wasn't really ready to play to him, but I took his
second Ballade with me, and thought I'd ask him some questions about
some hard places in it. He insisted upon my playing it. When we came in
he looked indisposed and nervous, and there happened to be a good many
artists there. We always lay our notes on the table, and he takes them,
looks them over, and calls out what he'll have played. He remarked this
piece and called out "_Wer spielt diese grosse mächtige Ballade von
mir?_ (Who plays this great and mighty ballad of mine?)" I felt as if he
had asked "Who killed Cock Robin?" and as if I were the one who had done
it, only I did not feel like "owning up" to it quite so glibly as the
sparrow had, for Liszt seemed to be in very bad humour, and had roughed
the one who had played before me. I finally mustered up my courage and
said "_Ich_," but told him I did not know it perfectly yet. He said, "No
matter; play it." So I sat down, expecting he would take my head off,
but, strange to say, he seemed to be delighted with my playing, and said
that I had "quite touched him." Think of that from Liszt, and when I was
playing his own composition! When I went out he accompanied me to the
door, took my hand in both of his and said, "To-day you've covered
yourself with glory!" I told him I had only _begun_ it, and I hoped he
would let me play it again when I knew it better. "What," said he, "I
must pay you a still greater compliment, must I?" "Of course," said I.
"_Il faut vouz gâter?_" "Oui," said I. He laughed.