_Norway.—Kong Halfdan.—Fjords.—Hay Transfer.—Government
Vessel.—Two Young Girls.—A Glacier.—The Captain’s Kindness.—The
Beautiful Picture.—Tromsö.—A Floating Buoy.—Eider
Ducks.—Lapp Family.—Reindeer.—Torghatten.—Fish.—The Trap for
Salmon.—Hammerfest.—The White Polar Bear.—The Drunken Sailor.—Arctic
Ocean.—Whaling Station.—The Little White Church.—Striking a Reef of
Rocks._
Before a tourist leaves home the mind is usually settled upon certain
places to be visited in the Old World. We think it a very good plan,
for then the history of those special points may be looked up and the
visit made more satisfactory; for the more knowledge one has of noted
historical places, the more pleasing is the visit.
Norway was the country we had decided to visit, and “The Land of the
Midnight Sun” was the point aimed for. So the twentieth day of August
found us two in the city of Throndhjem, once the capital of Norway.
Instead of railway coaches, passage was taken on a steamer which was then
at the pier puffing heavy black smoke from the smokestack.
[Illustration: _The Midnight Sun._]
The sailors were busily engaged in storing away the cargo, and there was
every indication that in a few hours she would steam out of port. Upon
inquiry we found that steamers had quit running to that far northern
point; the season being over, there would be no more chance for us that
year. That information was quite disappointing, for we had looked forward
with a great deal of pleasure to the time when we should look upon the
bright sun shining at midnight. The fault seemed to be our own, for we
had not started north soon enough. We concluded to go as far as the
steamer went, rather than turn back; so the tickets were purchased and a
stateroom procured on board the steamer Kong Halfdan.
The name seemed odd indeed, and you cannot imagine how very small the
ship did seem compared to the monsters on the Atlantic. I did wish it
were larger, though; but since it was not in my power to change its
size I just tried to appear unconcerned, and that wasn’t a very easy
task. This vessel belonged to the government, and in the season she made
regular trips between Throndhjem and North Cape. As the steamer was not
to leave her pier for an hour or more, we decided to walk around the city
and thus escape the noise and confusion of loading, which was in full
operation all around. Walking seemed to be a tiresome piece of work that
morning, and we were glad to return and take a seat upon deck, where we
remained until sailing time.
The day was cloudy, with a stiff sea breeze blowing and we concluded a
good shaking up was in store for us; perhaps a spell of seasickness in
the bargain. The captain said, “Nobody ever gets seasick on the fjords of
Norway”; but I decided to wait and see. The water in the bay was rough,
and the ship inclined to roll a little, so the outlook did not seem very
flattering.
The time for sailing came, and at twelve o’clock, noon, the anchor was
drawn up, and quickly we left the pier. I sat on deck but a short time,
for the rocking motion of the ship gave my stomach an unsettled feeling;
so, as soon as possible, I withdrew to my stateroom, and in a short
time thereafter my head was upon a pillow, where the sight of water was
entirely shut off.
After having gone a few miles, we were agreeably surprised at finding
a calm, beautiful sea. The clouds passed away, and the sun in all its
splendor shone down upon us, and each day, from that time on, the sun
cheered our way. We were out for a twelve days’ cruise along the rocky
coast of Norway, and you can imagine it was pleasing to have fine weather
and a smooth sea.
There were not many first cabin passengers on board the Kong Halfdan,
and it so happened that I was the only lady; but that which disturbed me
the most was to know that among them all we were the only two who were
English-speaking. The captain, who was a very nice man and extremely kind
to us, talked English quite well, so every once in a while we held a
conversation with him.
The captain and first and second mate ate at the same table with the
passengers. It was a long, narrow table and accommodated sixteen people.
A lounge ran the full length of one side of it, while chairs were used on
the other side. Each one had his seat, and at every meal we sat in the
same places. The captain was seated to the right and my husband to the
left of me, and from there down others sat; but we had the honor of being
seated on the lounge, and near to the captain.
The fjords of Norway are known as arms of the sea, they being a part of
the Atlantic and Arctic oceans. Some of the fjords are narrow, but others
are quite wide. Large vessels float upon them, for the water is very,
very deep.
The Norwegians are a thrifty people, and their little homes on the green
hillside along the fjords were very inviting as we passed them one
by one. Some were near enough for us to see the chickens picking and
scratching in the yard, and gladly would we have exchanged our stateroom
on the steamer for a cozy room in a cottage.
The steamer had regular stopping places called stations along the
line, and at those places they took on passengers and cargo. There was
no chance to cast anchor close to shore, for rocks run far out into
the water. Passengers and freight were always taken off in rowboats.
Mountains seemed to hem us in, and the splendid scenery was a surprise to
us; yet it proved to be quite a monotonous ride and we were anxious for a
change.
Green fields were scarcely ever seen, but small patches of green were
noticed here and there on the sides of the mountains. I wondered what the
Norwegians would say if a glance at fields of grass and grain, as we know
them, could be placed before them.
A familiar object along the way was a wire stretched from the foot to the
summit of a mountain. I’ll call it a hay telegraph. You see the farmer
cuts grass which grows on narrow ledges of rocks way up in the mountain.
He stores it away until great quantities have been accumulated and then,
when ready to have it stored close to his house for winter use, he sends
bundle after bundle down the wire. That wire was a novel contrivance to
save labor, for without it very many steps would surely have to be taken
by the weary farmer.
The government vessels carry provision and mail to the inhabitants living
along the coast, and we were reminded of our freight or express cars,
carrying all kinds of things and delivering them at regular points along
the line. The steamer did not present a beautiful appearance, for the
deck was greasy and very dirty looking. Quite a smell of fish filled the
air, and we found that her main cargo consisted of fish and fish-oil. All
of this accounted for the greasy look of the deck and the bad odor which
greeted our nostrils. You would be surprised to know how much freight
and express is taken on and off at those stations. I passed many hours
standing at the railing of the ship watching the process of loading
and unloading baggage, passengers and freight, and felt myself well
entertained.
One time two young girls rowed up alongside of the Kong Halfdan. A rope
from the ship was thrown them with which to steady themselves; they
caught it and were just in the act of taking hold of their express
package when a wave came and washed them back; the second attempt was
made, and that time they caught the rope and held tight to it. Do you
believe they were scared? Well, they were not; and instead of screaming
and saying, “We shall drown. Oh, don’t let us try it again!” they pulled
at the oars, and with a merry laugh received the package and then rowed
for the shore, laughing and talking. Their package was a guitar, and
no doubt the pleasure of having the instrument caused them to row with
energy. Women and girls can handle a boat about as well as a man, and
they have no more fears of being on water than the farmer’s daughter has
when riding upon the back of a horse.
At almost every station passengers came aboard, and oh how much we did
wish English-speaking people would be of the number, for we did so long
to hear our native language spoken. Almost all who took passage on our
ship went second cabin. The fare was cheaper and the accommodations
accordingly poorer than first cabin. Foreigners don’t mind poor
accommodations; they are used to them at home, and it would be useless to
pay a high price for anything better than what they are used to.
As we traveled on the scenery seemed more grand; mountain peak after
mountain peak was seen in the distance, and the captain, who was always
ready to give us information, said, “Snow is seen upon those mountains
the entire year, and numerous glaciers are sent off on both sides,
extending very nearly down to the sea.” Now a glacier is an immense mass
of snow and ice formed in the regions of perpetual snow. It moves down,
down the mountain side, carrying large rocks along. Would you like to see
one? From the steamer we saw the snow-capped mountains, but a glacier
we never beheld. The cold air which comes from a field of snow and ice
blew down upon us as we stood upon deck, and I drew my heavy winter
shawl more closely about me. The highest of the mountains which I’ve
been telling you about are said to be five thousand feet high. Is it any
wonder that we saw them when far away?
I told you the captain was kind and thoughtful. Well, one day he gave us
a surprise by running his vessel out of its course into a very narrow
fjord. When he knew we were desirous of seeing things of interest along
the route, he aimed to gratify the wish if possible. Our captain was
proud of the scenery of Norway, and whenever he could make time and get
to the different stations when due he showed his passengers favors.
All first cabin passengers were invited to go up on the bridge. Now,
that is where the steersman stands to guide the vessel. There was not a
thing to obstruct the view either ahead or to the right or left of us;
and everybody seemed to be amazed at the outlook. By and by the ship was
steered toward a very narrow looking place, and I said, “Why, you won’t
try to go through there, will you?” and before my question was answered
the ship passed between two high mountains into a small body of water
which seemed scarcely large enough to hold a vessel the size of the Kong
Halfdan. Oh what a picture! It was beautiful! There was the blue sky
overhead, with mountains on both sides of us, and not far away a lovely
waterfall. There was a splendid echo at that point, and when the captain
told us that the mountain to the right was twelve hundred feet high there
was a return sound which repeated the words. The waterfall was fed from
the melting snow of the mountains, and it was a pleasure to watch the
water rush and tumble down the mountain side. The little stones which
lay in its way seemed not to hinder the rushing water, and if perchance
they became loosened all went tumbling together until the water below was
reached, when the stones fell to the bottom, never to rise again.
While the beautiful picture was being admired the captain blew the steam
whistle three or four times, and as the shrill sound was quite unexpected
to us some screamed out loud, and everybody within hearing distance
laughed.
We had not time to tarry long at that place, for it was getting on toward
sundown. It seemed to me the ship was handled as though she were a mere
toy, and the first thing we knew she had been turned around and was out
in the wide fjord, steaming along at a rapid rate. One by one we took the
captain by the hand and thanked him for the pleasure he had given us. You
see, boys and girls, everybody likes to be appreciated, even the captain
of a steamship; and when we saw the weather-beaten face all smiles we
felt pretty sure we had given the captain some pleasure too, for he knew
that the extra pains he had taken was gratifying to every one of the
passengers.
Tromsö is the name of one of the stations along the route, and there
we cast anchor lying by eight hours. All of the passengers but myself
went ashore, and the captain said, “What, don’t you go too? It will be
lonely without the rest of the people.” But I concluded it would be more
pleasant to remain on the steamer and write letters than to go ashore in
a small boat, for somehow I never did fancy the getting in and out of a
small rowboat. My letter writing occupied several hours, and when I had
finished I went on deck where there was enough to entertain me the rest
of the time. Coal, freight and passengers were taken on at Tromsö, and
for a while all was noise and confusion.
Not very far from the ship was a floating buoy. Now, that is a floating
mark to point out the position of objects beneath the water, such as
rocks, sandbars, and anything which might prove disastrous to vessels or
small boats. There are many different kinds of buoys, and each one has a
meaning. The seaman knows them all and reads them like a book.
Out in the bay were a great many little rowboats. One of them attracted
my attention because there were three little boys in it, and I thought,
“How dangerous!” I watched them, however, and saw they were making for
the buoy. By and by they were alongside of it, and the next thing I knew
two of them were sitting astride of it, while the third kept the boat
from drifting away. Now I had decided those little fellows would surely
roll off and perhaps be drowned, and I grew very anxious about their
safety; but after having watched them an hour I concluded they were not
strangers on the water, but knew the buoy well and were used to playing
just where it pleased them.
Their stay was a long one, and not wishing to watch them longer I turned
to the other side of the deck; and there in the water were a dozen or
more eider ducks swimming along as gracefully as could be, seeming not
one bit afraid of the people who rowed past them. Eider ducks frequent
low, rocky places near the coast. Their down is in great demand; it
is used in that country for filling bed-coverlets, and you would be
surprised to know how light in weight coverlets filled with eider down
are. During the breeding season no one is allowed to shoot the eider
ducks, or even to fire off a gun near their nests. Persons who are
thoughtless enough to do so are fined for it. Because of the great care
taken they are very tame, and do not fear man when he comes near them.
The sun was getting pretty low, and the time for starting was near at
hand. I was still on deck, but now my eyes were cast in the direction of
the city. I was looking for a boat that would bring back the passengers
who had gone ashore. In the distance a boat came in view, and taking the
field glass which was near by I pointed it in that direction; and there,
sure enough, was the one I had been, looking for. My joy was complete
when the passengers, including my husband, were all safe on board the
Kong Halfdan.
All those who had gone ashore went expressly to visit a camp of Lapps,
which was about a mile from the landing. The people were very much
surprised to have so many strangers come upon them suddenly, so the
children and dogs—and there were many of them—were badly scared; but
the grown people seemed willing to stand and look. I missed seeing the
camp by remaining back, but I saw many of the Lapps, for they hung about
the ship’s landing. They were a curiosity to us, for their dress was
very odd, which you can see for yourselves by looking at the family in
the picture. There is father, mother and six children. That seems to
be a large family for such a small hut, but the Lapps live very close
together, and the less house room there is, the less work the housewife
has to do.
[Illustration: _Lapp Hut._]
Those people are short in stature, measuring perhaps four or five feet in
height. It is somewhat of a task to tell their complexion. Very little
attention is paid to the care of it, but I’ll say it seemed dark, rather
copper-colored. If their faces were washed no doubt we should find a
complexion altogether different from what has been described. The young
Lapps have quite wrinkled, puckered-up looking faces, and with surprise
you wonder why it is so. But when one takes into consideration the fact
that most of their time is spent out of doors we cannot but conclude that
wind and weather add nothing to their looks.
The Laplanders are an inoffensive class of people, we are told, and
crimes among them are unknown; but they have a failing which I’m sorry to
tell you of; it is that of strong drink. I have watched them pass into
saloons; drunkenness is therefore no uncommon thing among them. What a
dreadful habit to form; and men all over the world have given themselves
over to the demon of strong drink, regardless of the consequences. I wish
it were in my power to write something which would cause every boy who
reads to keep far away from saloons. Look upon me as a friend, my boy
readers, and let me ask you not to touch the vile stuff which is sold
behind the screen. Remember that sadness and distress come to yourselves
and families with the use of it. When tempted to drink do not, I beg of
you, think it is manly to take a sip, and cowardly to refuse; but rather
flee from the tempter and feel thankful you have escaped the fangs of the
great serpent which seemed ready to fasten itself upon you. Ah, I hope
you may never, never forget that death and destruction come with the use
of strong drink! May the Lord stand by and save you from the evil!
Those who visited the camp at Tromsö were especially anxious to see their
herd of reindeer; but the Lapps had already driven them to the mountains
for pasture; so the people were too late. The reindeer eat everything
green in their march to the mountains, and in the winter there is, far
under the snow, a moss which they feed upon and are wonderfully quick in
getting. They are a very useful animal to the Laplander, more so than
horses are to us. The reindeer is harnessed to a sledge in winter and
driven anywhere the Lapp desires to go. Three hundred pounds can be drawn
by them, yet the amount is usually limited to a little over two hundred
pounds.
These animals, as I said before, are quite useful, for the meat is used
for food and the hide for clothing and shoes. They are milked, and butter
and cheese are made from the milk. The milkmaid sometimes has a big time
to get the milking done, for the reindeer doesn’t want to stand still
for her. You know some cows are not willing to be milked; they kick and
move about too freely for the milkmaid’s comfort. Well, the reindeer
doesn’t like milking time any better than the cow; and where there is a
large herd to be milked it is necessary for a Lapp to get among them and
throw a halter around the antlers, so that the animal may be held fast
until milking is finished. You can imagine that man and maid have lively
times while the catching is going on. Did you ever see the picture of a
reindeer? Well, they have immense antlers, which come out from the head
like great branches; and when the animal is full grown the antlers are
very large, spreading far out and requiring a great deal of room. Where
there is a herd of two or three hundred of them they have a big time
among themselves hooking each other.
While on board the Kong Halfdan we had both salt and fresh reindeer meat,
and liked it very much. If you were here now, I would show you a pair of
Lapp shoes. The hide was tanned with the fur on, and in making the shoes
the fur was left on the outside. They are odd looking and quite fanciful
in their make-up.
Spoons and knife handles are made from the horns of the animal, and among
our collection of Norway relics are two small spoons with a great deal
of carving upon them, done by some of the Tromsö Lapps. I can’t say the
carving is fine at all, but it is rather amusing to look at.
Time passed rapidly away, and the eight hours’ stop at Tromsö had ended.
The passengers were all settled and the freight stored away. By and by
the signal for starting was given; the ship turned about, and we steamed
out of the bay. The atmosphere seemed quite cold at times, and we kept
ourselves in our stateroom most of the time, sitting there wrapped in the
steamer rug, passing the time in reading and writing to friends at home.
The rocks and mountains kept us company, for from the porthole we saw
them plainly. First they were to the right, then to the left of us.
One day when sitting in our stateroom the captain called to us and said,
“Come up on deck and see Torghatten.” Now, what do you think that was?
Not one of you could guess, I’m sure, so I’ll just tell you. Torghatten
was a great high mountain with a hole through it. Right close to the top
was a natural tunnel, and daylight could be seen through it plainly from
where we stood. We looked in wonder at the great work of nature, and
thought, “God can do anything.” The earth, and all that is in it, was
made by him; nothing is impossible with him. The forming of a hole in the
top of a mountain is small compared to the many greater things he has
done; and, dear children, will you think often of the Maker of this great
universe? Will you keep in mind what power the Lord has? If so you will
exclaim as I have many times, “How wonderful are thy works, O Lord!”
After passing Torghatten we continued standing on deck; and soon after we
steamed past a great lot of rocks a mile or more wide. They were right
out in the water and it seemed we would surely run on them with our big
ship; but we didn’t, though, and were glad of it too. On these rocks
were hundreds of gray seagulls, and when the steamer went puffing along
they all flew up with a cry of alarm, for they were badly scared. After
finding we intended no harm they all came down again; and as we looked
back we could see them settling contentedly. You surely would have
laughed if you had seen the scared seagulls.
[Illustration: _The Hole in the Mountain._]
Sometimes the ship stopped when far away from a station. We wondered why,
but soon found that a light fog had settled around the ship. It comes
down rather suddenly, and disappears just as suddenly as it comes. Often
the bright sun is seen above, when all around the steamer is fog. The
captain is compelled to stop his vessel and wait until the haze lifts. If
he does not, there is great danger of running on the rocks, which are so
plentiful that he must be cautious, or accidents will happen, and that
would mean a loss of cargo, and lives too.
Along the coast of Norway are valuable mackerel, herring, lobster and cod
fisheries. Several thousand men are employed, and the herring and cod are
caught in immense quantities. Hundreds of pounds of herring and codfish
are taken on at every station. The cod are dried and tied in large
bundles. The herring are usually put down in brine and packed in barrels;
many of them are dried, too, but it seemed that more were salted down.
The people along the coast, as well as those living in the interior of
Norway, eat a great many fish, for the lakes abound in the finest kind of
them. The smallest fish, which are not salable, are fed to the hogs and
chickens.
We had no trouble to get good fresh eggs to eat, for they were brought to
the ship for sale. But at times they could not be eaten with a relish,
as the taste of fish in them was too strong to make them palatable. That
seemed to be a new revelation to us, and we decided that chickens ought
not to be fed anything but the best of feed if an egg with a good taste
is desired.
We saw fish everywhere: dried fish in the hold of the steamer, fish on
the table cooked in many different ways, and live fish in the water;
fish, fish, and no end to the different kinds. Fresh cod, trout and
salmon were served on board the ship, and finer fish we never had the
pleasure of eating. Several times cod liver was presented in our bill of
fare. The seamen consider it a very fine dish. At first we ate but little
of it; and I must say we never did like it as well as many other things
upon the bill of fare.
We stopped to take on passengers and cargo at a small station. The
day was clear and the sun shone beautifully. The people on shore were
standing watching the loading of the ship and the boatmen were pulling
at the oars, trying to get their little rowboats close to the side of
the steamer; and I stood watching all, when my attention was suddenly
drawn to the water, which was beautifully clear; so clear that I was
able to see down, down many feet, and there in its depths I saw swimming
with ease thousands of little codfish. The confusion above seemed not to
frighten them in the least, for they came nearer and nearer the surface.
The little fellows seemed hungry, so forthwith I procured a biscuit and
fed it to them piece by piece. Thus I stood for an hour or more, feeding
and watching them. How swift they were in their movements; for each
little fish was bound to have a nibble. The one which came out victorious
was compelled to eat his bite in a hurry, for there was no time to be
lost. I am confident you would have enjoyed watching those fish, for it
truly was a pleasant pastime.
After leaving the station we passed, to the left of us, a pile of rocks;
and a waterfall seemed to be there too. Taking up the field glass we
looked in the direction of the rocks, when, lo, nothing was to be seen
but a daub of white paint a few feet long and perhaps a foot in width.
Now what did that mean? Nothing but a trap by which to catch salmon. They
are a hard fish to catch, and that invention was intended to lure them on
to where nets were fixed to trap them. You see, the salmon desire fresh
water, and they know it can only be found coming down from the mountain,
so they swim for the supposed waterfall and are caught. The fishermen are
quite ingenious; yet I always felt sorry for the poor fish.
Now do you know what that instance made me think of? Why, the evil one,
who is continually setting traps for innocent children. Boys and girls,
be careful you do not fall into the trap Satan sets for you. When you
are tempted to tell an untruth, or to steal, or to play truant, or to be
disobedient, just say, “I won’t do it,” and think that if you do any of
these things you are getting into a trap which Satan has set to catch you.
Hammerfest was reached at last, and the captain said we might board on
the Kong Halfdan and take trips to land whenever we desired to do so.
It seemed strange indeed to be on land again, and no doubt the people
thought so too, for they looked at us with amazement as we walked up one
street and down another.
There were three or four little children who followed us from street to
street, never saying a word. I asked them if they spoke English, but they
gave no reply. We gave them a small piece of money, and they gave a look
which told that they knew full well what money was. Dinner time came,
still they followed, and I am very much afraid they lost their dinner
that day.
I told you before that there were many fisheries along the coast. Well,
this town seemed wonderfully fishy; there were warehouses in which
were stored dried herring and codfish; then there were factories where
cod-liver oil was made. You would be surprised to know how full the air
was filled with the odor of cod-liver oil. We were told the smell was
healthful, so we took it into our lungs more willingly; yet, if it had
been possible for us to have a choice in the matter, we would gladly have
had the air free from the odor, for surely it was very unpleasant.
Hammerfest is the farthest north of any town on the coast, and one day’s
journey from North Cape, the most northern point on the coast of Norway.
The harbor at this place was full of vessels, both large and small, just
as you see them in the picture, excepting two steamships which were then
anchored far down in the bay. Spitzbergen is a great place for whalers
and seal-hunters. It is four hundred miles from North Cape, the place
where we had expected to go. History tells us that from this place
several attempts have been made to reach the North Pole. Walruses, seals,
foxes, reindeer, bears and birds are to be found there.
[Illustration: _Hammerfest._]
There was a vessel in from Spitzbergen which had been there only a few
hours. As a rule she carried no passengers, but on the last trip one
passenger had been taken aboard; and as there are no staterooms on
sealing vessels, the passenger was given a box up on deck, and there, day
and night, it stayed. The captain asked us if we would like to go over
to the Spitzbergen ship and see the passenger. We said “Yes,” so he had
one of the Kong Halfdan’s seamen take down a boat, and the captain rowed
us out in the bay, over to where the ship was anchored. When we reached
the vessel I thought I would just stand in the small rowboat and look
over the sides; but the captain said, “Oh, but you must go on the sailing
vessel, or you can’t see all that is to be seen.” Now there were no steps
to go up, and no ladder to climb, so how could I get over? Well, seamen
are used to climbing, and think everybody else is too; so he said, “Put
one foot here, and the other up there, and then you will get up without
trouble.” I did as he directed, and in a little while I was on deck and
looking around.
What did I see? Why, the hold of the ship packed full of fresh seal
pelts. After killing the animals, they skinned them. The meat is thrown
away, and the skins are taken to the hold of the ship, spread out, and
salted right there. The next thing I saw was their passenger, and what do
you think it was? A bear, a real live bear, and just fresh from the polar
regions. It was about five months old, and just as white as white polar
bears are.
The sailor who captured the bear said it fought nobly for freedom, and in
the conflict he was unfortunate enough to have been bitten. The mother
lost her life in the fight, and the hide hung near by to tell the story.
In loud, pitiful tones the orphaned bear called for its mother; but no
answer came back to it. I do not know where the cub found a home; but it
was shipped to Throndhjem, and from there was to be sent to a museum. We
were glad to leave the Spitzbergen ship and return to our own, for the
mournful sound of the motherless white polar bear was not agreeable to us.
There had been a great fire in the town of Hammerfest, completely
destroying the finest residences and best hotels just the winter before
we reached there. It was thought the whole town would surely succumb and
be burned to ashes. Our ship was the best hotel, and we were fortunate to
get plenty to eat and a comfortable bed to sleep in. A change of quarters
would have been pleasant if a good hotel could have been found; but as it
was we were very well satisfied.
Hammerfest was the last stopping place along the line, and some of the
sailors were off duty while the ship lay by at this place. About the
first thing searched for is usually a saloon, and there is never any
trouble to find one, for there are plenty of places where the poor
fellows may find entertainment with cards and strong drink.
We had been on land a few hours and returned for luncheon, when our
attention was attracted to a sailor upon the street who had indulged
too freely in the use of whisky. He walked with unsteady gait to the
ship landing, where eight or a dozen steps led to the boats in the water
below. No one could reach the steamer without descending the stairway
and going in the rowboats; and we wondered how any person with such
tottering steps could descend without falling into the water. So we
watched, and he went down step by step stumbling, yet catching himself
again and again. His comrades saw him, and taking one of the ship’s
boats rowed for the drunken sailor, reaching him just as his weakened
knees gave way. Headlong he pitched into the boat, and with a splash his
feet went into the water. That was a trying time for the boatman, but he
seemed equal to the occasion, and by tugging and pulling succeeded in
getting the poor fellow into the boat, feet and all. With a steady row
and in silence the side of the steamer was gained, and with plenty of
help the unfortunate one was pulled through a small door in the side of
the ship. He disappeared, and nothing more was seen of him till the next
day, when, rather long faced, he was seen on duty.
Now, children, you may be amused while reading this little incident of
a drunken sailor, but just let me tell you that I was disgusted, and
thought of the words of Solomon when he said, “Wine is a mocker, strong
drink is raging: and whosoever is deceived thereby is not wise.” The
drunken sailor knew not what he was doing, and was unwise when he partook
of strong drink. Now, boys, I’ll give you something to learn, and as long
as you shall live, don’t ever forget it: “Woe unto them that rise up
early in the morning, that they may follow strong drink; that continue
until night, till wine inflame them!” “Who hath woe? who hath sorrow? who
hath contentions? who hath babblings? who hath wounds without cause?
who hath redness of eyes? They that tarry long at the wine; they that go
to seek mixed wine. Look not thou upon the wine when it is red, when it
giveth his color in the cup, when it moveth itself aright. At the last it
biteth like a serpent, and stingeth like an adder. My son, give me thine
heart, and let thine eyes observe my ways.”
May the Lord bless you, boys, and keep you from the drunkard’s cup.
There was nothing of great importance to be seen in Hammerfest, so we
decided to make the return trip on the same steamer, which would leave
after the cargo had been discharged. August twenty-sixth the anchor was
hauled in and we started.
There was a little change in the return route, which gave us a sail
of a day or so on the Arctic Ocean. We had not gone far till the wind
rose, and we had what the captain called an “Arctic storm.” The steamer
was small, so it rolled and pitched a good deal. Oh how we wished to be
out of that place! But one must put up with storms, and there is no use
complaining about it either, for it does not help matters one bit, and a
person is no happier.
There was a whaling station on the route, and the captain showed his
kindness by telling some of the passengers that if they were so minded
they could visit the camp. When my husband and a young German decided to
go, the captain ordered the sailors to take a ship’s boat and row them
there and back again. The sea was very rough, so I decided to remain
where I was, and not venture in a boat smaller than the Kong Halfdan.
It was thought by the men that I had acted wisely in not accompanying
them. The camp was found in a miserably dirty condition, for whales in
different stages of decomposition were seen all around it. The fat of the
decayed animals was thrown into a vat and rendered just as we render the
fat of a hog. Very large vats of boiling oil were to be seen, and the
odor sickened those who were not used to it; and I’m sure it would have
sickened me too.
For three days the weather was unpleasant, and a good share of that time
I stayed in my stateroom. A great deal of rain falls in Norway during
the summer, and it is quite necessary to carry rain-cloaks and a rubber
blanket to throw over the baggage. These things are more needful to those
traveling on land, because they are more exposed to the weather than
persons who travel on water. We were well supplied with the necessary
wraps, yet had but little use for them.
Sunday was the fifth day on the return trip, and the sun came out bright
and clear. Even though it was Sunday the sailors worked faithfully taking
on and off freight. We made a stop at a little village whose houses
extended down to the water. A little white church, with green grass
around it, looked so cozy standing in the beautiful sunlight. The bells
were ringing and the sound came over the water to us. What a cheerful
sound! and it created a desire within us to go and worship with the
gathering congregation. We could not go ashore, for the steamer might
leave us behind; and that would never do. Many barrels of herring were
taken aboard that day, and four hours passed before we steamed away;
plenty of time to have gone ashore had we known it; but the privilege of
mingling our prayers with those of the little congregation had passed
away forever.
Our ship was heavily laden with salted and dried fish, besides several
hundred barrels of whale oil. All deck room was taken up, and only a
narrow space was left us to walk upon. Passengers got on and every
stateroom was occupied; besides many beds were made up in the dining
saloon, and we were pretty well crowded.
We found the Kong Halfdan was not in very good repair, for there seemed
to be a good deal of tinkering done to the boiler; day and night, by
spells, we heard the hammering. Upon inquiry we found the boiler had been
leaking, and that it was not an easy matter to patch it up. When the
sea washed the deck, or a hard rain came, the water dripped down in our
stateroom, splashing dirty water on such articles as were near. Time did
not pass any too swiftly for us, and we were glad to know that only a few
days more and our feet would be on mother earth again.
The scenery was grand all along the route, but the bad condition of the
ship kept us from enjoying it to the fullest extent. You must surely know
it is not a pleasant thought to be in a position where you are unable
to help yourself if an accident should happen. It is not best to borrow
trouble; yet there are times when it seems impossible to keep from doing
so.
One morning about six o’clock we were awakened from a sound sleep by
a peculiar grating noise. The steamer had struck a reef of rocks, and
I shall never forget the sensation. With one bound we were out of our
berths, and, with but few words passing between us, dressed hastily. We
knew full well that if a hole had been broken in the ship, with such a
heavy cargo only a short time could pass before she would sink. Upon
examination it was found that the propeller was injured, but not badly.
In a few days after we steamed into Throndhjem Bay safely, and our hearts
were filled with gratitude to the Lord for his watchful care. We were
glad to have an opportunity to see so much of nature, for by it many good
sermons were preached to us, and these words filled our mind, “O Lord,
how great are thy works; and thy thoughts are very deep.”
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