_Land.—Bremen.—On the Way to Denmark.—Copenhagen.—Religion
of Denmark.—Singing.—A Farmhouse.—Malmo.—Market Place in
Sweden.—Limhamn.—Fishermen and Boats.—Beautiful Lakes of
Sweden.—Children in Sweden and their Bows.—Pine Branches.—Mother
and Babe.—A Meal along the Way._
Now you may imagine us upon land, and what a change! The same sky with
small patches of blue was above us, but the sea was all gone. Trees and
grass never before looked more beautiful, and no doubt we appreciated the
sight more because we had seen nothing green for so many days.
New sights and new scenes met our gaze, and, strangest of all, a new
language was spoken; for you must remember we were upon German soil.
After having the baggage examined, which is always necessary when going
into a strange country, we passed from the custom house to the train
which was in waiting for all steamer passengers; and just as we were
about to enter the cars there was a downpour of rain. There was nothing
pleasant in that, but we had long since learned that there was no use
to murmur when the weather was bad; so we settled back in our seats and
watched the water as it came pouring down.
Between eight and nine o’clock that night we reached the city of Bremen.
The depot was well lighted, and every one was enabled to see plainly
where to go. Hotels were not scarce, for they are to be seen on all
sides, so it took but a little time for us to find comfortable quarters.
How strange everything seemed! There was no need of watchfulness now,
lest a lurch of the ship would give us an unexpected seat upon the floor.
No noise of machinery sounded in our ears, and there was no restless,
uneasy sea. “Give me land,” I said; and who is there who would not rather
be on land than water?
The next morning found us somewhat rested, and after eating a warm
breakfast we planned for the rest of our journey. Time was precious,
therefore it was out of the question for us to tarry long in Bremen; so
as soon as possible we took our departure for Denmark.
Copenhagen was the first point aimed for, and we traveled northward,
leaving Germany far behind. At Kiel we made our first stop, and there
took a steamer crossing over to Korsör, which place we reached about
seven o’clock next morning. A train was waiting to take all passengers on
to Copenhagen, and about noon we had reached our journey’s end.
Denmark is not a very large country, therefore it takes but a short time
to travel from Germany to the north end of it. There is a great deal of
water around this little country, consequently the air is damp and chilly
most of the time, and people who live there wear heavy woolen clothing
all the year round. Even though it was the month of August, we were quite
comfortable in warm clothing.
We happened there just in time to have full benefit of the storms of wind
and rain which are frequent during the months of July and August, and the
changeable weather was in no wise agreeable to us.
Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark, and is therefore a very large city.
We spent several days with the brethren and sisters there, for you know
that is one of our mission points. Copenhagen is situated on the Island
of Seeland, and so is entirely surrounded by water. The streets are
very clean and the houses quite nice looking. There are little lakes in
different parts of the city, and often the large white swans are seen
swimming gracefully upon them, and people throw pieces of bread far out
into the water so that they may have a long distance to swim before
getting the wet morsel.
There were plenty of chances for sightseeing, and palaces, churches,
hospitals, schools and museums were open to visitors special days in the
week. There was not time to visit all of the above-named places, but we
were sure that one week would be a short time to spend in the careful
examination of all relics which were on exhibition.
The established religion of Denmark is Lutheran, but the Baptists and
our Brethren are among the number who have regularly organized churches
there. Instead of worshiping in fine large churches as do the Lutherans,
they meet and worship in halls, for mission bands cannot afford to spend
money to keep up large church edifices. Religious privileges are many,
and yet many of the inhabitants live in sin and wickedness, turning a
deaf ear to the pleading voice of the ministers.
Children who live in that large city do not have nice yards in which to
play; but there are many very nice parks where they congregate every day
and have the best kind of a time together.
The people were very kind to us, and no matter what hour we called upon
them they were sure to give us a cup of good hot coffee. I wondered
whether the coffeepot was kept upon the stove all the time, for only
a few minutes passed between the time we entered their home and the
presentation of the cup of coffee. Sometimes chocolate was given, but it
was necessary to refuse one or the other of the drinks, so we gave the
preference to coffee.
The Danes take great pleasure in singing, and I remember well, when we
sat up until the clock struck two in the morning, singing out of the
Gospel Hymns, they singing in Danish, and we singing in English.
We had a strong desire to see something of country life, so journeyed
through the greater part of Denmark, stopping in villages and visiting at
farmhouses. It was our happy privilege to become acquainted with a great
many people, and we found them as kind and hospitable as those living
in the city. A few visitors in a family seemed not to discommode the
housewife, for no extra pains were taken to prepare fine meals. Company
fared the same as those of the family, and none seemed tired by their
much serving.
[Illustration: _Danish Country Woman._]
There was quite a company gathered together at one farmhouse, and we
were among the number. When mealtime came not all of the people could be
seated around the table, for it was too small, so eight of the number
took places and the rest waited to eat at the second table. There was no
nice white tablecloth to be seen, and not a fine display of nice dishes
either; no silverware decorated that table, and, indeed, the whole house
seemed void of an unnecessary thing.
But I’m going to tell you about the meal, so will pass by a description
of the house and its furniture. On the table were a plate of black bread,
a small dish of butter, and two earthen dishes filled with milk. The
dishes were placed at the ends of the table, so that four persons could
have easy access to them when the dipping-in time came. There were knives
and spoons, but not enough to go around. Now what was to be done? Well,
they were used a while by some, then passed on to be used by those who
had none. We were strangers in the company, therefore the favored ones,
so had the happy privilege of having a spoon all to ourselves. Now they
were not of silver, as you might suppose, but bone. They were short in
the handle and large in the bowl. Just look at your mother’s kitchen
spoons and I think the size will correspond very well with the bone ones
we used.
Instead of having bread and milk, which most of the boys and girls
like, we took the milk first, dipping into the earthen dish and placing
the milk in the mouth spoonful by spoonful; and then we ate the bread
afterward. Now that was no style of our own, for we followed the example
of those around us, and the custom seemed indeed a very strange one. When
the slices of black bread were gone, and the dishes of milk emptied, all
stopped eating and thanks were returned to the Father above who provides
so liberally. After this all retired from the table. We were not made
comfortable by sitting on sofas and easy chairs. Oh no; but instead of
that we had the privilege of standing until those at the second table
were through eating, and even then we had the pleasure of being seated
upon narrow benches, or possibly on an uncomfortable chair.
Those people had a novel way of cleaning the spoons used in eating. I
noticed with astonishment that after each person had finished the milk,
and needed the spoon no longer, he took the bowl of the spoon between
the thumb and fingers of the left hand, wiping it clean; after which
the spoon was put away, to be used sometime in the future. Now, little
girls,—you who do not fancy washing dishes, and especially spoons,—you
must not adopt this method of cleaning them. But probably you will think
about it as I do,—that the custom is not a nice one, and hardly worth
following.
Houses in the country are built low and rather long. One end of them
is used as living apartments and the other end for horses, cows and
chickens. The farmer need not go far when feeding-time comes; it is
only necessary for him to walk through the kitchen, open a door and
commence his work of feeding. The odor of the stable permeates the entire
house, and there is no way of getting where it is not. Now some people
think living close to a barn is healthful; but I must confess it is
disagreeable in the extreme to me, and I had a great desire to be far
away from such a nuisance.
The language of the Danes is quite unlike that of the Germans, and
we were not able to talk to the people whom we met, unless it were
through an interpreter, and that made it necessary for us to have an
English-speaking person with us almost all of the time. To be in a
country where one does not understand the language is quite unhandy, and
yet there are a great many people who travel all over Europe and speak
but one language, the English. Again, you meet persons who speak seven or
eight different languages fluently.
There is a great deal to interest one while traveling through a strange
country; but it is not well for us to write too much about one place, so
we shall leave Denmark and go to Sweden.
Since Copenhagen is built on an island, you will know it is wholly
surrounded by water. If such be the case, it is utterly impossible for
any one to leave there for Sweden without going aboard a steamer. The
passage of water between the two countries is called a sound, and every
one knows it by the name of “The Sound.”
One bright, beautiful day, in company with some Brethren, we crossed over
the sound to the seaport town of Malmo, Sweden. The steamer was very
clean, and the water unusually smooth that morning; so the ride of an
hour and a half was a very enjoyable one. Malmo is only sixteen miles
distant from Copenhagen, and when the day is clear the cities may be seen
plainly when on the water.
The languages of Sweden and Denmark seemed alike to us, yet the natives
claim there is quite a difference. Be that as it may, the people of both
countries talk together and understand each other without much trouble.
Our time was limited, and hurriedly we took in the sights, spending a
short time with those of like precious faith who lived in the city. The
time spent with them was well spent, for we were received cordially by
all.
The cities of Europe are all very much alike; the houses are built in
flats, having many families living under one roof. The streets are clean
enough for footmen to walk upon, and there is no danger of even soiling
the shoes. The store windows were tastefully arranged, being quite
attractive to the passer-by, and causing us to think that much time could
be consumed in looking at the beautiful display of finery.
The market place of a large city in the Old Country was always attractive
to us, and if it was at all possible we aimed to take a stroll through
it. We admired the tastefully arranged stands of vegetables, crisp and
green. Fruit seemed to be plentiful that year, and apples, pears and
plums all looked beautiful. Even the butter, eggs and cheese stands
looked well, and you would be surprised to know how many different kinds
of cheese were on sale. Not much time was spent in looking at meats,
fish and fowls, for close by was a greater attraction, that of the stand
filled with flowers. There we saw the pleasant faced little pansy, the
beautiful carnation pinks, and the loveliest of all flowers—the rose. I
think I never saw such beauties as were offered for sale in the Malmo
market. My husband—who was very indulgent—kept me well supplied with
them, and their fragrance was enjoyed by others as well as myself.
[Illustration: _Fishermen’s Wives._]
Six miles distant from Malmo is a small village called Limhamn, and at
that place there is a small church with a few members. We were requested
to visit the members by way of encouragement; and as soon as the train
was ready we started for that point. The ride was of short duration, yet
very pleasant. Almost the entire distance the railroad track ran close to
the water; so we had the pleasure of looking out upon the great body of
water with its ships and sailboats.
The village of Limhamn is the home of many fishermen. About three o’clock
in the afternoon they start out to fish. All night long they work hard,
and in the morning often return with a very small catch. One time we
looked out over the water and saw twenty boats of fishermen with sails
well filled with wind. As a rule, those boats keep very close together,
one following in the wake of the other. Sometimes the wind almost topples
them over, but on they go, spinning along at a rapid rate. When the waves
are lashed into fury by a storm many a little sailboat is turned over,
and the boatman goes down, never to be seen again.
In those northern countries fishing is quite a business, and whole
families sometimes engage in it. The women have a hard time, for they
do double duty, that of looking after their families and then going to
market day after day. After the husband returns in the early morning
with his fish, the wife and all the children who are old enough arise
and hasten to prepare them for market. As soon as fifty or one hundred
fish have been made ready they are placed in a wheelbarrow, and the wife,
after having changed her soiled dress for a clean one, trudges off to
market, walking a mile or more with the heavy load. Where there are large
families it takes many, many fish to pay for food and clothing, and it is
therefore quite necessary that all should work.
The life of a fisherman is hard indeed; constantly dangers surround him;
yet he seems to enjoy life about as well as those who work on land. They
are strong, hearty looking fellows, which you will notice by looking at
the picture of the four weather-beaten faces before you. Do you see their
heavy coats? And then just look at the odd looking hat. The rim, which
extends over the back of the neck, is for protection against wind and
storm. Perhaps if we were upon the water that rim would be turned around
and used as a protection for our eyes instead of the neck. After all,
each fisherman probably knows best what is for his individual good, and
no doubt the wind and stormy weather have taught him many good lessons on
the preservation of health.
The time spent at each stopping place was of short duration; so then we
left the fishermen at Limhamn to toil on, and we traveled still farther
north.
Much of the country which we passed through was very rough looking, and
yet there were parts of it which reminded us of northern Illinois, where
we live. The greater part of Sweden is covered with forests of pine and
fir trees, and the railroad ran through miles and miles of it, giving
the passengers a splendid chance to see a great deal of country. There
seemed scarcely an end to those beautiful trees, and we really grew tired
looking at them for hours at a time.
Sweden is noted for her many beautiful lakes. Some of them are quite
large, and boats are seen upon them; but very many of them are small. We
passed alternately forests and lakes, and we were always sure to see a
forest after having passed a lake. Never before in my life had I seen as
many beautiful lakes as we saw during that ride.
Sometimes for miles and miles the ground was covered with heather, or
ling. Its leaves are very small, and they are green all the year round.
It bears very pretty little flowers; some are white and some are pink.
They are not at all fragrant, but very pretty to look at. Heather is of
no use to the farmer, and no doubt he would rather not have it cumber
his ground. But the train comes to a halt, and we leave it, expecting to
visit in the country, and thereby come in closer contact with the people.
[Illustration: _Fishermen._]
As a rule the Swedish people are religiously inclined, and they esteem
it a great pleasure to have the story of Jesus and his love told them.
Many times I noticed the tears chase each other down their weather-beaten
faces while the minister talked about the saints of old. Very willing and
anxious were they for the Word of God; and I’m so glad to tell you it
was given them in all of its purity.
The women seemed sorrowful because I could not converse with them; and
in turn I felt sorry not to be able to gratify their desire; but we got
along nicely anyway. Their hearts seemed full of love for me, and they
made it manifest by patting me upon the shoulder, squeezing my hand, and
kissing me frequently. It was all they could do, and I did not object.
You must remember these people lived on farms, were very poor, and knew
nothing of the ways of the world as we know them. They were innocent,
kind-hearted and good.
I have often wished, since writing these little letters, that I could
have talked with the children in those faraway countries. There might
have been many things to tell which would have pleased you. But we are
deprived of much pleasure as we pass through this world; and, since it
cannot be otherwise, we must be satisfied.
Children in Sweden are like other children; they talk, laugh, and romp
too. We longed to talk with them, but that being out of the question we
undertook to make them understand us by making gestures, and that method
was quite interesting. Now, children, whenever you are in a position
where you cannot talk to those around you, just try my plan, and see how
nicely you will get along.
Children enjoy doing favors for those who are older than themselves;
and how much they love to be praised for it! Now that brings to my mind
the little Swedish girl who took great pleasure in gathering plums and
bringing them to the house. After having sorted them, the largest and
nicest ones were handed to me. In her language I thanked her, but that
was all I was able to say. No doubt she wished I’d talk a little more to
her; but, finding my list of words was very short, she concluded to do
all the talking herself, so chattered away at a lively rate, not even
waiting for an answer. I could do nothing but look and listen. We were
very good friends anyway, and each talked to the other in her own native
language, but neither understood a word that was spoken by the other. How
would you like to live with people and not be able to talk with them? The
home of my little friend was our home for at least two weeks, and before
we bade them adieu I had wandered with her from orchard to barn, and from
one neighbor’s house to another; and when the heavy wind had shaken down
the beautiful apples, together we picked them up. Going from place to
place with the little girl helped me pass away many lonely hours, and I
assure you that not many hours passed without my longing for the friends
at home. Do you wonder then that so small a thing would give me pleasure?
In Sweden the little girls—and women too—make such pretty little bows.
Not as we bow in America; no, but with a very quick and graceful
movement. There is a bending of the knee, and a dropping of the body.
Old women, young women, and even tiny little girls, all bow exactly
alike. It took quite an effort on my part to keep back the smile which
wanted so much to come, and I’m sure you would have had the same feeling
if you could have seen them. From infancy children are trained to have
respect for older people, and it is taught them in such a way that they
never forget it. They were taught to bow; that was a mark of courtesy and
respect. Will you, my little readers, try to remember the training given
at home, as do the children away across the ocean?
I told you there were miles and miles of pine forests in Sweden, you
remember? Well, physicians recommend persons who have weak lungs to take
many, many rides through them, claiming that the pine odor is healing to
the lungs. I do not know how much truth there is in the saying, for our
lungs seemed all right; but I do know that a ride through the forests in
a wagon is delightful, and worth taking.
Pine branches are used quite profusely in that country for decorating
both the inside and outside of houses on special occasions. One time
we were expected at a certain country home, and great preparations had
been made for our reception. The hostess did not bake fine cakes or kill
chickens for us, either. Well, what did they do? Why, they took a jaunt
to the forest, gathered evergreens—pine branches—ever so much of them,
took them home, cut them up in many small pieces, and scattered them
on the walk from the gate where we were to dismount up to the house,
then almost covered the steps leading to the front door. Two beautiful
young pine trees had been planted, temporarily, on either side of the
steps, and indeed the old farmhouse took on quite a pleasant appearance.
In walking over the fresh-cut pine its odor came up around us, and was
quite agreeable. Now don’t you think those people were kind? Perhaps
when I tell you that all of the work was done by women and children you
will think we would be strange people not to feel pleased with such a
reception. We enjoyed all, for we felt sure that love for the American
wanderers prompted them to work so hard.
Soon we shall leave this interesting country; but before we do so will
call your attention to the picture of a Swedish mother and babe. Do you
notice the pleasant looking faces of both parties? Then observe closely
the peculiar way of dressing. That woman doesn’t need a baby carriage to
haul the little one in; no, indeed; she has something better, for with
the child sitting in the sling which hangs over the shoulder the mother’s
hands are free and she uses them to knit stockings for the rest of the
family. That way of dressing is not altogether in vogue now, for fashion
has gone ahead and the modest apparel like that of the woman in the
picture is very seldom seen these days.
We are admonished to love those who are of the same household of faith,
and as the family with whom we stayed belonged to the same communion as
ourselves, we had much love in our hearts for them. With tearful eyes the
farewells were said, and we wondered whether the Lord in his goodness
would permit all to meet again this side of the grave.
[Illustration: _Swedish Mother and Child._]
Time passes swiftly, no matter where you are, at home or in a foreign
land, so the allotted time for rest in Sweden had finally come to an
end. There were many days of travel before us, and riding becomes quite
tiresome when day after day is spent in foreign railway carriages.
Our new-made friends were loath to have us leave, and farewell seemed a
hard word for them to say. Several accompanied us to the station, many
of them walking in the hot sun a distance of two or three miles. We took
seats at the window of the car, and when the train passed out we looked
back and saw them waving handkerchiefs until the distance widened between
us and the flutter of white was no more visible. Waving the handkerchief
after departing friends is a custom of the country, and at every station
along the railroad it is seen.
There are a number of things along the line of travel to interest
tourists, if they are in the proper mood to be interested. Many days of
continued travel bring with them feelings of weariness; and when that is
the case, beautiful scenery or odd customs of the people fail to attract
attention. The discomforts of foreign travel are many, and they often
drive away the enthusiastic feelings one had in the beginning of a long
journey.
The guard of a train usually takes orders for meals which passengers
expect to get along the road, and when you are not thinking of it he puts
his head in at the window and asks who among the number desire dinner. A
dispatch is sent, and the meal is ready by the time we reach the stopping
place.
You enter a nice, clean dining room, and there you see tables spread with
very white tablecloths. Here and there upon the tables are stacks of soup
plates, dinner plates and small dessert plates, and knives, forks and
spoons close by them; dishes of boiled salmon with sauce, hot potatoes,
boiled beef and cauliflower with cream sauce; then, too, ever so many
kinds of cheese, and some smoked meats.
We followed the example of the rest of the people, and forthwith helped
ourselves to a plate, knife, fork and spoon. No waiters looked after our
wants, so each person looked after himself, being careful not to push or
elbow his neighbor. Everybody was orderly, and the dinner was splendid.
Two women had the oversight of the dining room, but they sat off at one
side, behind a little table, and did not leave their seats until paying
time came, when they took the money and made the change.
A servant appeared and took away each plate when it was needed no more,
and when time for the dessert had come, she removed the fish, meat and
vegetable dishes. There was no tarrying one for the other, but as each
person desired a dessert he arose, took a plate and helped himself to the
jellied raspberry juice, or tapioca pudding; and as a dressing for them
delicious whipped cream, poured from a large glass pitcher, was used.
After paying the bill, each one passed out to the train, which started
soon after.
[Illustration]