ESSENTIAL POINTS IN CUTTING AND FITTING
There are many skilful tricks in dressmaking that are advantageous to
the overweight figure. For instance, the shoulder dart allows ease over
the bust, makes a more comfortable shoulder, and permits of a close
fitting sleeve. It also prevents sagging of the dress at the underarm,
giving a neat good fitting effect. Don’t avoid or “detest” darts; learn
to use them so that you get the greatest possible advantage from them.
Watch an adept dressmaker smooth the material around and slip out the
dart in a line over the bust that fits smoothly and easily. Only
carelessly fitted and stitched darts are unattractive.
THE HELPFULNESS OF DARTS IN CERTAIN PLACES
The crosswise armhole dart, too, has its advantages but is not good for
a broad shouldered or short figure as it widens the shoulder and cuts
the height, unless it is wisely made on a bias grain to slant down so
that a crosswise line is avoided.
[Illustration:
Darts are necessary for round figures, especially the underarm dart as
shown at the right center above. They are often advantageous for
flat figures, as at the left. They can, when wisely used, add much
to the attractiveness of a garment. Don’t use them, however, unless
for a specific purpose and slant them so that they give length
rather than breadth.
Diagonal or bias lines such as shown at the right often are employed
for smart effect. They can slenderize, are distinctive and youthful,
especially if subdued stripes or twilled fabric is used.
Rounding shoulders often need a few gathers at the neck line in the
back, as shown in the lower figure. Such gathers eased in insure a
better fitting, more comfortable collar line.
]
The underarm dart is often used with a shoulder dart, especially for
very full busts. This helps to shape the material over the bust easily
and to give a smooth, straight underarm seam. Sometimes a dart is used
on the back seam as well as the front in cases where the back is fat and
round. In any event, fit your dress so that the underarm seam does not
drag, and so that the crosswise grain of the material is parallel with
the belt line.
The hip dart helps to fit the skirt by providing a means of lifting the
fabric at the sides. If the hips are straight and not curving to any
extent, only a slight dart, if any, is necessary. But for large figures
a hip dart is desirable, especially for one-piece dresses. It should be
brought up so that the skirt hangs evenly all the way at the bottom.
Arrange the dart so that it comes directly over the hip or under the
narrow belt or waistline trimming. Remember that the larger the hip, the
longer the dart, and the greater the necessity for accurate fitting.
[Illustration:
Plaits rightly employed can give length and are often quite necessary
in Fashion’s catalog. But make them a part of the dress, surround
them, make them give length where length is needed.
For instance, in A you find three forms of decoration, each with a
purpose. The plaits for length, the embroidery for interest, the tie
for color.
In B plaits for length, buttons for finish, necklace for interest.
In C the tucks must suffice for length, trimming and interest. Often
embroidery is desired and it can serve to give length if rightly
used. For instance D, a simple dress, is made pleasing with
embroidery that helps rather than hinders.
Draped skirts, as in E, need not be taboo entirely, if the draping is
used for line emphasis and is soft enough to cling rather than
extend.
Large figures often find a dress broken in line advantageous, as in F.
If the bust is large and hips small, the skirt should be favored
with the trimming. The upper waist line should be omitted if the
figure is in the least short.
]
HOW TO HOLD THE DRESS UP ON THE SHOULDERS
If the back is fat and rounding and the neck fairly small, it is
advisable, in order to hold the dress well up on the shoulders, to run a
gathering thread across the back neck line. The fullness thus retained
may be eased in and shrunken out, if wool is used, so that no gathers
are visible but a comfortable neck is secured. Such fullness is not at
all objectionable in silk or cotton fabrics.
WHAT THE LONG UNDERARM DOES
In our quest for becoming clothes, we are fascinated by the long
underarm line and feel sure that if we could evidence such a
constructive detail, we could look 20 pounds lighter right away.
To achieve this, consider again what I have said about the corset, its
size and fit. Be sure that your corset has enough supporters to hold it
securely down. A corset that “rides up” or a brassiere that is too short
will definitely prevent a long, easy underarm.
Be sure when your dresses are fitted that the crosswise grain of the
cloth is parallel with the waist line. Be sure that your waistline trim
or belt is placed as low as your dress length will allow—not low enough
to make you look top heavy, but low enough for your own height, size and
type. To find what this is, parade up and down in front of your mirror
with belts, bands, and sashes strung around your waist, one at a time,
of course, until you know which one is placed best for you. Don’t be
faddish, don’t be extreme, but be modish. There is a difference. Work
for becomingness so that the line you finally decide upon will surely be
right.
THE BIAS CENTER FRONT
Cutting the center front on the bias may give a “silent” or a pronounced
line, depending on whether plain or striped material is used. It takes a
third more material to cut a dress on the bias, but since it is possible
to develop a very smart dress this way it is often worth considering. It
should be worn only by the type that can wear extreme things well,
however, because a dress cut on the bias is in no wise conservative.
[Illustration:
When styles call for plaits, plaits may be used, but not in widening
flares as shown above, rather in slenderizing length lines as shown
on the opposite page.
]
[Illustration:
Hats and shoes in these two pictures also illustrate incorrect and
correct choice. The wide hat and prominent straps opposite emphasize
width and weight; the neat hat and cross-strap slippers above help
to slenderize.
]
HOW TO ADD FULLNESS WITHOUT FLARE
To allow fullness in walking, two plaits may be placed in the skirt at
the left side seam, one directly over the other, the right side of the
skirt being finished plain. This does not interfere with the slim line
effect, yet gives the desired freedom. Plaitings or panels of self color
that are 5 inches or less in width soften the line of a dress and, if
effectively used, can improve the garment both in line and
attractiveness, especially for the figure that is large above the waist.
An effective use of skirt plaiting can aid greatly in balancing the
proportion.
If the waist measure is large, keep the skirt as straight and narrow as
fashion will allow, and watch your sleeves to fit them close and plain.
Short, full sleeves and a full skirt must have a small, short waist line
to be effective; they are totally “out of the picture” where the waist
and hips are large.
Plaits aid in line and are youthful, but if fashion decrees straight
skirts we must stitch or press them down straight and slim, for
flared-out plaits are treacherous for us who would be slender. For the
same reason, we must avoid panels that flirt out as we walk.
A corded girdle, sash, or string sash that is long and limp is becoming.
Tunics, if not too full, and if not definitely trimmed at the bottom
edge, are advantageous. They slenderize by making it possible to draw
the skirt in at the bottom, thus giving an appearance of height. This,
of course, is lost if the tunic or the lower skirt is too full. Large
figures should always have tunics and foundations of the same color and
material so as not to break the height.