SARATOGA.--BALLSTON.--ALBANY.--MOUNTAIN-HOUSE.--CATSKILL.--HYDE
PARK.--LYNN.
The early hour of six A.M. saw us once more in motion for Schnectady, by
way of Little Falls. We pursued what is termed the ridge road, running
along the valley of the Mohawk.
The day was bright, and not over-warm. The sun's rays being tempered by
a delicious north-east breeze, the condition of the atmosphere
completely re-invigorated the almost prostrate body, whilst the
loveliness of the prospect delighted and cheered the mind. No valley in
the world can present charms more varied or more beautiful; even making
every allowance for the happy change from musquitoes, swamps, close
confinement, and suffocation, to freedom, exercise, and healthful
breezes, with the satisfaction consequent upon the re-enjoyment of all
these.
We frequently ran along the line of cuttings for the railroad now in
progress between Utica and Schnectady. The rocky nature of the ridge
whose line they pursue, offers formidable impediments; but the work was
proceeding with great rapidity notwithstanding. This railway, when
complete, together with the canal by whose side it runs, will afford a
facility of communication between New York and Utica, which, for speed
and convenience, can have no rival.
We breakfasted at Little Falls, a small town built on what was, at some
period or other, the very bed of a torrent, amidst the huge piles of
rock riven from the mountains in its course. Although overshadowed by
the steep heights that wall the ravine in which it lies, it is kept cool
and healthful by the constant current of air following the rapid fall of
the river, which is here precipitated over a series of rocky ledges in a
wild and hurried course, giving to the ravine and town the name of
Little Falls. A more picturesque, romantic site no painter could desire.
I felt vexed to be compelled to leave it after about an hour's halt; and
should yet more regret this, did I not hope to revisit it.
Arriving at Schnectady, we found the railroad train about to start for
Saratoga springs; and, taking our places, we arrived at this Malvern of
America about ten at night, after a delightful day's ride.
Next morning I got up early, and took a lounge about Saratoga. The
nominal attraction to this place is its water, which is much in vogue,
and may be procured all over the States, being bottled and sold under
the name of Congress water; as in all such places however, pleasure, not
health, is the end pursued by the majority of visitors.
The day was again close and hot: the street was a foot deep in light
dust, so that every carriage moved in a cloud, and not a breath of air
could rise without bearing this nuisance on its wing. I could not but
think, considering the abundance of water, that there was a lack of
charity in thus withholding a sprinkling from the road, especially as
the resident invalids would, I am sure, have as much benefited by this
mode of application as by any other; since to breathe for any length of
time an atmosphere constantly impregnated with impalpable powder, must
be anything but salutary.
The chief attraction presented to my eyes was the piazza of the hotel
where myself and friend had our quarters. This was of immense extent,
full twenty feet wide, boarded throughout, and covered by the roof of
the house, which was supported by lofty pillars of pine. About these
columns grew, in the greatest luxuriance, the wild vine of the country,
or some other Clematis, covering them from ground to roof, and forming a
continuous rich drapery throughout the whole extent of the long piazza.
This forms a promenade for the residents of the house and their
visitors; and, were it out of reach of the dust, it would be difficult
to create one more elegant and agreeable. There are several hotels here,
whose exteriors present all the attractions of cleanliness and great
size, both exceeding good points in so hot a climate as this now was. Of
their internal arrangements I know nothing; for after partaking of a
breakfast, in common with some hundred and fifty elaborately
well-dressed ladies and gentlemen, in a room every way proportioned to
the number of the _convives_, with the thermometer at about 88 degrees,
I declared off, and made up my mind to decamp by the next train to seek
quiet and coolness on the summit of the Catskill mountains.
On our way we halted for a few hours at Ballston, the quality of whose
water is, I believe, similar to that of the Saratoga springs: the place
itself I liked better, simply, I suppose, because it had less of bustle
and pretension. At the hotel, whose pillared piazza, was, like that I
had just quitted, clothed with the freshest and most luxuriant clematis,
I met a gay young belle of New York, who was resident here with her
family, recruiting a sufficient stock of health to carry her through the
fatigues of a winter campaign. By this lady I had my prepossessions in
favour of Ballston confirmed; she assured me that the society here,
though exceedingly small by comparison, was infinitely more pleasant;
that there was less of dress or ceremony, and consequently more real
comfort and sociability. I left this place with a strong inclination to
remain for a few days at least: but my time of _relache_ was short; and
my misery was that I had much to see, and many points to visit lying far
asunder, therefore was bound to hasten on, leaving agreeable realities
as soon as found, to seek for something better, which too often proved a
shadow when overtaken.
Arrived at Albany, however, I found a right substantial welcome
awaiting me from "mine host o' th' Eagle," in the shape of a six o'clock
dinner of trout and woodcock, which would have recommended itself even
without the aid of a hot day's journey and a ten hours' fast.
Passed the evening with the K----s, one of those families of women
which, if I did not value their delicacy more than my own inclination, I
should like to describe, in contradiction to those who, viewing only the
surface of American society, have so flippantly passed judgment upon its
members.
And how many of these little circles have I encountered, and been
admitted into, in various parts of these States, composed of women who
have seen little of what is called the world; but whose information,
intelligence, and spirit would have made them the ornaments of any
country; and whose manners, refined, feminine, and naturally graceful,
might with infinite advantage be studied by some of the ungentle censors
whose tone of criticism is so _prononce_.
It has often, when visiting in the country, been a matter of surprise to
me to meet with so many women every way presentable, yet who have had
such slight opportunity, as it is called, of acquiring that perfect
ease and repose of manner by which truly well-bred women are readily
distinguishable.
The fact is, in the cities, where numbers congregate, society is apt
rather to catch its tone from that which is most showy and prominent
than from what, though more refined, is less obvious. In cities, also,
strangers are often presented, and, from a deference to European
fashion, observed and imitated, whose manner might with more profit be
viewed as an example of what ought to be eschewed than held out as a
model for adoption.
But this is a digression I must close here, and which, indeed, the
recollection of my fair friends at Albany alone could have betrayed me
into. Acquainted with so much that is attractive and admirable in
private life in this country, I should be less than honest did I not
feel a desire to do it such poor justice as the expression of my feeling
may render: I have only to regret that a rigid sense of propriety
condemns me to deal in generalities only upon a point where I could
individualise with such absolute truth.
At seven o'clock A.M. went on board the Erie steamer, and a little after
ten my companion and myself were landed at Catskill.
A stage was in waiting at the landing-place, which quickly took us up
to the town; and here we hired a carriage to proceed directly to the
Mountain-house, which we had marked from the river as the morning sun
lighted it up, looking like a white dovecot raised against the dark
hill-side.
In consequence of some bridge having been recently washed away by a
flood, we were compelled to make a considerable circuit in order to ford
the river; this, however, we accomplished, and continued our ascent
under the happiest auspices.
I will say nothing of our winding rocky road, or of the glimpses we now
and then had of the nether world, which "momentarily grew less," as,
whilst, halting for breath, we curiously peeped through the leafy
skreen, flying from the faded leaf and drooping flower of scorching
summer, and finding ourselves once more surrounded by all the lovely
evidences of early spring.
We took nearly five hours to win the house aptly called of the Mountain.
I walked more than half way, and never felt less weary than when I
rested on the natural platform, which, thrust from the hill-side, forms
a stand whence may be worshipped one of the most glorious prospects
ever given by the Creator to man's admiration.
In the cool shade we stood here, and from this eyrie looked upon the
silver line drawn through the vast rich valley far below, doubtful of
its being the broad Hudson, upon whose bosom we had so lately floated in
a huge vessel crowded with passengers: for this vessel we searched in
vain; but, by the aid of a telescope, made out one of the same kind,
which appeared to flit along like some fairy skiff over a pantomimic
lake made all radiant with gold and pearl.
How delightful were the sensations attendant upon a first repose in this
changed climate, enhanced as these were by the remembrance of the
broiling we had so recently endured! I never remember to have risen with
feelings more elastic, or in higher spirits, than I did after my first
night's rest upon this mountain: the rooms were small but very clean,
and the house with but few inmates; a circumstance I rejoiced in
exceedingly, although it was perfectly incomprehensible to me,
considering the state of the atmosphere below.
I found next day that here even there was a lion, in the shape of a
waterfall, to be visited before one could be permitted to take absolute
rest; so away I went to visit it,--a sort of waggon-omnibus being in
preparation to take the inmates through the wood to the fall.
A ride of some three miles brought us as close as might be to the spot,
and a walk of as many hundred yards presented to view a scene as well
suited for a witches' festival as any spot in the old Hartz.
In the season of melting snow this must doubtless be a grand affair, for
the fall is full three hundred feet deep; at present a mere rill crept
over the centre of the rocky amphitheatre, and, long before it reached
the basin beneath, it was changed into a silvery shower of light spray.
We found a mill-dam had appropriated all the surplus of the weakened
torrent, close by the head of the fall: as here was a day and night to
recruit in, a trifling bribe induced the sawyers to raise their
floodgates for our especial benefit.
The bargain being completed, we descended into the bed of the river near
the basin, and, giving the appointed signal, were indulged with a
momentary glimpse of the scene under better form; but still, I am
certain, received no idea of the effect produced here when the machinery
is complete.
After wandering a little way down the rugged bed of this misused
river,--for surely Nature never designed that its waters should be
arrested in their course to turn a saw-mill,--the party collected to
return: with two others, I decided upon walking back, and pleasant it is
to walk through these quiet wild wood-paths, where the chirp of the
birds and the rustle of the leaves alone break in upon the repose.
These mountains are everywhere thickly clothed with wood, saving only
the platform whereon the house is built; deer abound on the lower
ridges, and the bear yet finds ample cover here. A number of these
animals are killed every season by an indefatigable old Nimrod who lives
in the valley beneath, and who breeds some very fine dogs to this sport.
I did promise unto myself that during the coming November I would return
up here, and sojourn with the stout bear-hunter for a few days, for the
purpose of seeing Bruin baited in his proper lair; but regret to say my
plan was frustrated. It must be an exciting chase to rouse the lord of
this wild mountain forest on a sunny morning, with the first hoar frost
yet crisping the feathery pines; and to hear the deep-mouthed hounds
giving tongue where a hundred echoes wait to bay the fierce challenge
back, and to hear the sharp crack of the rifle rattle through the thin
air.
Or, whilst resting upon some crag under the blue sunny sky, to watch the
sea of cold clouds tumbling about far below, and think that they
o'er-canopy a region lower still, about which one's fellows are at the
moment creeping with red noses and watery eyes, or rubbing their frozen
fingers over anthracite stoves, utterly unconscious, poor devils! that
"The sun, when obscured by the clouds, yet above
"Shines not the less bright, though unseen."
On Tuesday at five A.M. was roused to breakfast, and descended into the
lower world to meet the Albany steamer.
I opened my casement and looked forth upon the ocean of mist, whose huge
waves rose and fell as they kept rolling by. It seemed as though river,
valley, and mountain had been overwhelmed by this restless deluge, whose
course was yet unstayed. The sun as yet wanted the power to shine
through the mist; all was dark, chilling, and almost fearful.
Before breakfast I had a last palaver with our guide; he said that the
extreme denseness of the fog gave assured token of "an awful hot day."
At six A.M. our muster was completed, and the party for the lower
regions duly told off. As the carriage slowly crept down some of the
steepest portions of the tortuous way, time and opportunities were
afforded to steal a look under the cloudy canopy which the sun was
quickly drawing upwards, and thus good assurance was afforded that the
guide had prognosticated rightly.
It did look "awful hot," to be sure; a golden-coloured haze seemed to
float over the whole land like the subdued reflection of a bright flame.
It made one feel uncomfortable to look upon the glowing landscape: the
long snaky river gave no idea of coolness; it had a dead shiny look,
only to be likened to a stream of molten lead.
Meantime we mournfully beheld the green moist leaves, the yet half-open
buds, together with all the other pleasant signs of spring, vanish with
our too hasty fall, and to these succeeded parched grass, dry yellow
leaves, and sickly flowers drooping and over-blown.
At half-past ten we quitted Catskill in the steamer, and by half-after
twelve were landed at Hyde Park. Mr. W----ks was awaiting our arrival,
and a pair of his trotters soon set us down at his very pretty
country-house, which is one of a cluster of charming residences
scattered along this portion of the north bank of the river.
A pleasant house and an agreeable party, with the sweetest possible
scenery to ride or walk through, with a river and boats, and every
accessory the frankest hospitality could furnish, might reasonably be
presumed attractive enough to arrest a wayfarer in search of comfort:
one drawback alone was to me insurmountable, mine ancient and implacable
foes the musquito tribe were in full possession. These verdant shades
form a portion of their hunting-ground on the Hudson; with them the
war-hatchet is never buried; I had no sooner taken up my position
therefore, than hostilities were re-commenced; my defence was creditable
enough as I flatter myself; but Hercules himself might have shunned such
fearful odds; I saw no reason therefore why I should abide to have every
vein in my carcase breathed by these Cossacks, in obedience to a mere
point of honour; so, shortly after dinner, I fairly cried peccavi, and
decided to decamp.
I was almost ashamed to declare my motives of flight to my hostess,
whose hospitality I had accepted for a few days; especially as I saw
others, and women too, heroically abiding the assault: but the truth
is, my residence on the mountain had made me effeminate; Catskill proved
my Cannae. Freed from every accustomed annoyance in that "shady, blest
retreat," I had absolutely begun to doubt whether there could be any
longer found in the world below either heat or musquitoes; with the
confident presumption of restored vigour, I stooped from my security,
and reaped the harvest of my folly.
My first idea was to return to the hills, but I had made an appointment
to sail from Nahant down the east coast for a day or two with a friend,
who I knew would expect me; and thither I resolved to push, the more
especially as I was informed musquitoes were not strong enough on the
wing to abide the rough breezes blowing in the bay of Massachusetts.
It was nigh midnight when the night-boat touched, in its way down, at
the pier of Hyde Park: bidding adieu to my friends, I stepped on board,
and was again cutting through the dark river.
The boat was crowded; and what a scene did the cabins present! But to
describe it is impossible: indeed, the glance of curiosity I was tempted
to take was an exceedingly brief one. Let the reader only imagine some
two hundred men stowed away in double tiers of berths, or lying in rows
upon stretchers placed close together, between the decks of a steamer,
on one of the hottest, closest nights of a North American summer, and he
may imagine a picture it would be very difficult to describe correctly.
The night was very beautiful however, and almost reconciled me to
passing it sleepless. Many persons kept the decks, which were yet ample
enough to afford solitude to those who desired it. Myself and H----e
quietly lighted our cigars, and philosophically roughed it out till six
o'clock A.M., at which time we were landed in New York.
We knocked up the lazy varlets of the hot baths, and with this luxury
balanced the loss of sleep.
I found myself back in New York sooner than I had anticipated on
starting for the west; but, in the course of the day, discovered that
the good city was yet too hot to hold me. W----n, who by good fortune
was yet holding out here, invited me to dine with B----r and himself at
the club; and, could we only have contrived to ice the atmosphere,
nothing would have been wanting to our comfort. I found these last of
the Romans were off in a day or two for the Springs, after the rest of
the world; so, nothing being left to hold me, I took my passage next
evening for Boston.
Roomy as is the "Benjamin Franklin," I found on this occasion every
berth already taken: the captain, however, resigned his room to me with
much good-will; so my mischance proved fortunate, as I found myself
installed in a neat cabin having a window opening on the water, which
indeed the heat of the night made most necessary.
There were two or three southern families on board, bound for Rhode
Island: they appeared worn out by heat and long travel. The women
especially pay dearly, I fear, for their sunny possessions; and what
return can compensate for loss of health? Many of these are natives of
the north; but, marrying southern gentlemen, they follow the fortunes of
their husbands; the distances are great to which they are removed
perhaps; and the necessity for a continuous residence on the plantation
through two or three succeeding summers, saps, for ever, the
constitution of a delicate female.
The appearance of two or three of these young matrons now on board the
packet excited my more than commiseration; attenuated in form,
sallow-visaged, and fragile as the aspen, they appeared to shrink from
the very breeze, to seek whose freshness they had journeyed so far. Two
of them possessed the remains of positive beauty; their dark hair was of
gossamer fineness, and their handsome eyes sparkled with that unnatural
light which shines as it were from the tomb. No man could have looked
upon them without pity; so attractive, so young, yet so evidently past
all earthly cure.
Landing at Providence, five hours' ride over a most dusty road brought
us within sight of the State-house of Boston, when a thunder-storm,
which had been for some time threatening, fell upon us with merciless
fury. The overburdened cloud appeared as though it fairly rested upon
the house-tops, and out of it ran a torrent of rain such as I should
only have looked for under the line, or on some tropical island.
I was outside, and had I even desired to seek shelter, the assault was
of so sudden a nature, and so vigorous, that the worst one could expect
from a complete ducking was effected in a moment: I sat it out
therefore, and arrived at the Tremont uncommonly uncomfortable.
_July 22nd._--Still on the move, seeking some cool spot where I may
fold my tired wings and take "mine ease." One night's halt convinced me
Boston was no quarter such as I desired just now; the house was crowded,
the thermometer high, and my room as high as the glass, for it was one
hundred and something up four flights of stairs. My good friend, Mr.
T----r, took compassion on my condition, and volunteered to drive me
down to Nahant; so off I was again. We passed across the harbour by one
of the little steamers; and from hence to the pretty town of Lynn, there
is nothing in the landscape particularly attractive. Over the destinies
of this said town of Lynn St. Crispin holds absolute dominion; for the
entire population, man, woman, and child, father, son, and brother,
appear devoted to the calling in whose practice the princely saint was
brought up.
Vast quantities of shoes are here manufactured for the Indian markets;
the amount exported annually is something enormous. The place wears an
air of great prosperity; the dwellings being of remarkable neatness, and
the public edifices of a size and character highly creditable to the
ambition of these worthy citizens.
This caste-like monopoly of certain callings is a singular feature in
the economy of the New England republic, there being many of its towns
where trades are exclusively exercised, and the practice of them handed
down as an inheritance from one industrious generation to the next in
succession; and notwithstanding the many arguments lately raised at home
against hereditary honours, I do not find that in Massachusetts a souter
is considered likely to make a shoe, a cooper a cask, or a farmer grow
onions, with less ability, simply because their fathers did the same
before them.
The drive along the sandy beach from this place to Nahant was a most
agreeable change from the dusty road on a warm July morning, especially
with the prospect of a fresh breeze and a fish breakfast crowning the
rocky peninsula rising boldly in the distance.
The first happily encountered us before we reached the hotel, much to
our relief; and the second was very quickly provided on our arrival. The
precise day of the month when this place becomes fashionable had not yet
arrived; although the heat, which alone could render such a residence
desirable, had; consequently, there were few visitors, and my fears
about want of room proved groundless. A choice of chambers was
proffered me, and I selected one having an eastern aspect, with a
window that commanded the north-east coast of the vast bay of
Massachusetts; whilst just within reach lay the snugly-sheltered cove
and rocky islet about which, according to the most authentic reports,
the "great sea sarpint" delights to disport him when in a merry mood.
"Who knows," said I to myself, when all the advantages of my location
became known to me,--"who knows but that on some morning, bright and
early, I may behold the monster combing his venerable beard amongst the
rocks below, or see him lift his head to the level of my window--the
height not being over a hundred feet--in civil search of a bit of old
brown Windsor to shave withal?"
Here, then, will I fix my head-quarters until the prompter's whistle
shall once more summon me to commence a new campaign at New York;--six
weeks nearly, with nothing to do,--it will require some management to
complete this task without weariness!