This is the capital of the powerful state of New York, and promises at
no very distant period to wear an aspect worthy its rank. No situation
was ever chosen better adapted to display; for the town is built over
the face of a lofty and steep hill, which only affords space for one or
two streets about its foot, and this is chiefly occupied by docks and
the several canal basins connected with the Hudson.
The principal avenue, a regularly built, grandly proportioned street,
with a railway running through its centre, climbs directly up the hill,
and is terminated by a well-kept public square, or _Grande Place_, as
the French would call it, about which the State House, City Hall, and
other public buildings are ranged. These striking objects, from the
nature of the ground, stand boldly out, and have all an appearance
sufficiently imposing; whilst here are some buildings that possess
strong claims to architectural beauty.
Nearly all the more important public offices have lofty and
well-proportioned domes; and these being uniformly covered with tin or
other bright metal, impart a gay and picturesque effect to the general
mass; and, indeed, the city, viewed from a little distance, with all
these cupolas and towering domes reflected in the setting sun, assumes
quite an Oriental appearance: one is immediately reminded of the mosque
and minaret of some Turkish capital: the fine marble too used in the
construction of all public buildings, and indeed of many private ones,
increases the effect which they derive from their style and from the
bold eminence they occupy.
Albany was long almost exclusively Dutch, and may be said up to this
time to have hardly kept pace with the rapid advance of the country
generally: it must have marvelled at the spread of the numerous
flourishing towns which have grown up around within a few years, and
which threatened to eclipse, if not extinguish it wholly. A movement,
however, has of late taken place: the inhabitants have awoke, new
colonists have superseded the family from Sleepy-hollow, or imparted to
them a share of their energy; and Albany begins to assert her claims on
the productive country by which she is backed, and to turn into her own
channel a portion of its commerce. Building is everywhere going forward;
land has doubled and trebled in value; improvements are in steady
progress; and, should the present prosperous course of things meet with
no untoward check to paralyse the industry of the people, Albany will in
a few years assume an importance more profitable to its citizens than
the empty honour it derives from being styled the capital of the State.
There are several excellent inns here: one kept by an Englishman, a Mr.
Thomas, in which I dined once or twice with friends, and which bears a
high reputation; another, wherein I always resided on my several visits
here, kept by Mr. Crutenden; and if henceforward any stranger who
relishes good fare, loves Shakspeare, and would choose to make the
acquaintance of a Transatlantic Falstaff, passes through Albany without
calling at the Eagle, and cracking a bottle with "mine host," he will
have missed one of those days he would not have failed to mark with a
white stone.
Soberly, I do not remember ever to have met with a face and figure
which, were I a painter, I would so readily adopt for a _beau-ideal_ of
the profligate son of mirth and mischief as those of mine host o' th'
Eagle. He has a fellow feeling too with "lean Jack," is as well read in
Shakspeare as most good men, quotes him fluently and happily, honours
and loves him as he should be loved and honoured, and in himself
possesses much of the humour, much of the native wit, but not a single
trait of the less admirable portions of the fat knight's character.
Indebted to Mr. Crutenden for many pleasant hours, I will offer no
excuse for making this indifferent sketch of him here, since it in no
way trenches upon the rule I hold sacred of eschewing comment on private
persons, or details of social intercourse, where indeed, men speak
oftener from the heart than from the head. Mr. C. I look upon as a
public character, and thus I am enabled to say how much I esteem him.
Should he be wroth, I vow, if I ever should visit Albany again, never to
make one at the "Feast of Shells." On the contrary, I'll fly the Eagle;
forswear "the villanous company" of mine host; I'll disclaim him,
renounce him, "and d--n me if ever I call him Jack again."
The theatre here is a handsome building, and well adapted to the
purpose for which it was designed; but is, I believe, worse supported
than any other on this continent. I had been advised not to visit the
city professionally; but being strongly solicited by the worthy manager,
"mischief lay in my way, and I found it."
I feel compelled in honesty to state the facts of this trip, though no
way flattering to my powers of attraction: however, if there be anything
unpleasant to relate, I ever find it better to tell of oneself, than
leave it to the charity of good-natured friends. The only disagreement I
ever had with an audience, in fact, occurred here, and roundly, thus it
happened.
On the evening when I was advertised to make my _debut_ to an Albany
audience, I at my usual hour walked to the house, dressed, and was
ready; but when, half an hour after the time of beginning, I went on to
the stage, there were not ten persons in the house. The stage-director
and myself now held a consultation on the unpromising aspect of our
affairs. He ascribed the unusually deserted condition of the _salle_ to
the sultry and threatening state of the atmosphere, which had deterred
the neighbouring towns of Troy and Waterford from furnishing their
quota,--those indeed being his chief dependencies. I was opposed, on
policy, to throwing away our ammunition so unprofitably; and so after
due deliberation, the manager agreed to state to the few persons in
front, that "with their permission" the performances intended for this
night would be postponed until the evening after the next following; as,
in consequence of the exceeding smallness of the audience, it was to be
feared the play would prove dull to them, as it must be irksome to the
actors.
Nothing could be received with better feeling on the part of the persons
assembled; not a breath of disapprobation was heard. They instantly went
away; but soon after I reached home, I found, by the report of one or
two gentlemen who had since been at the theatre seeking admittance, that
a considerable excitement prevailed, and that at the public bars of the
neighbourhood the affair was detailed in a way likely to produce
unpleasant effects on my first appearance.
The appointed night came, the house was filled with men, and everything
foreboded a violent outbreak; the manager appeared terrified out of his
wits; but, as far as I can judge, behaved with infinite honesty;
disavowed the truth of the imputations connected with the dismissal,
and which it was sought to fasten upon me; and affirmed that he was
fully prepared to place the facts simply before the audience, in the
event of my suffering any interruption.
It was now found that an actor or two needed in the piece were absent.
These worthies, the chief agitators in this affair, were, in fact, in
front of the house to assist in the expected assault upon a stranger and
one of their own profession. On this being explained to the manager, he
said he was aware of it, and had threatened to discharge the
individuals; but relying upon the affair terminating in my discomfiture,
they did not fear being sustained by the same intelligence which they
now directed against me.
On my appearance the din was mighty deafening; the volunteer champions
of the public had come well prepared, and every invention for making the
voice of humanity bestial was present and in full use. The boxes I
observed to be occupied by well-dressed men, who generally either
remained neutral, or by signs sought that I should be heard. This,
however, was out of the question; and after long and patient abiding,
"for patience is the badge of all our tribe," I made my bow and
retired, when the manager, who had on the night in question dismissed
the house, made his bow, and, after silence was obtained, begged that
the audience would give me a hearing, assuring them on his own knowledge
that I had not contemplated insulting them.
I again came forward, and after some time was permitted to say that I
could in no way account for a simple matter of business being so
misrepresented as to occasion this violent exhibition of their anger;
that, before the audience in question was dismissed, its permission had
been obtained; that, had I really contemplated insult, it is hardly
probable I should wait two days to encounter the anger of those I had
sought to offend. I farther said, that on the common principle which
they professed, I was entitled to a hearing, since the sense of the
majority was evidently with me; and that, if the disorder continued, I
should, for the sake of that respectable majority, sincerely regret
this, since the character of their city for justice and hospitality
would be more impeached than my prospects be injured.
After this the row was resumed with added fierceness: not a word of
either play or farce was heard; but I persisted in going through with
the performance, being determined not to dismiss a second time.
At the fall of the curtain I begged the manager would not again announce
me; as although, for the sake of the many who I could see were opposed
to this misjudged outrage, I had gone through the business once, I could
not again subject them to the annoyance of such a collision, or myself
to continued insult.
I was, however, happily induced to change this determination at the
request of many gentlemen of the place, who assured me that the whole
thing arose from stories most industriously circulated by one or two
ill-conditioned actors, backed by inflammatory handbills and a
scurrilous print.
Out of this affair, which threatened me serious annoyance, I really
gathered a new proof of the kindness of the people of this country, for
I found persons on all sides interesting themselves for me, although I
entered the place without an acquaintance; and, had I not stood in need
of help, so in all probability should I have quitted it: but in this
hour of annoyance, men not of theatrical habits put themselves actively
forward to shield a calumniated stranger from insult or injury; in
consequence of this interposition, on my next appearance, nothing could
be more orderly than the conduct of the audience.
I concluded my engagement, which was only for four nights, and left the
theatre with a promise to return, which pledge, at some inconvenience, I
redeemed; and I have never been able to regret a momentary vexation
which obtained for me many friends, and made known to me the sterling
good feeling existing in Albany, of which I might otherwise have
remained ignorant.
The rides about Albany are numerous, the roads the best in the country;
and the little city of Troy, with its Mount Ida, worthy even the
celestial visitants who honoured its less beautiful predecessor with
their presence. Higher up lies Waterford, a thriving place, also
charmingly situated; and, near this, the Fall of the Cohoos, one of the
finest natural objects in the country. Indeed, a morning's ride in this
direction offers a succession of views that can nowhere be surpassed,
and which I do not remember to have often seen equalled.
Approaching Albany from the west, and looking across the Hudson over
the finely-wooded slopes and verdant meadows on which it fronts, it
appears a city bordered by an ornamental park; to the south tower the
cloud-capped Catskills; on the north are the blue mountains of Vermont;
and about the verge of the landscape on all sides runs a line of boldly
undulating hills, whose rugged outline forms no inappropriate framing to
this very beautiful picture.
It had been my intention from Albany to proceed directly for Niagara,
and thence returning to Buffalo, join a steam-boat, which was advertised
to make the tour of the great lakes, Superior and Erie, touching at
Detroit and one or two other points of interest, then after visiting the
new entrepot for the territory of Michigan, Chicago, was to return with
her passengers to Buffalo; the trip being one of pastime, and calculated
to occupy about twenty days.
This plan was, however, frustrated, through an application being made
from the Polish committee of Philadelphia that I should act a night for
the benefit of the fund raised for these exiles for liberty: back,
therefore, I hurried to Philadelphia; arrived in the morning, acted at
night, with the thermometer at ninety-seven, and was off again for New
York by the mail-boat next day.
I was anxious to get away west, to make the most of my holidays, and,
being Sunday, this mail was the only public conveyance permitted through
the State of Jersey. I however caution all thin-skinned travellers
against using it any time between the first day of June and the last of
October; for to run the gauntlet at night through the legions of
musquitoes quartered between the Delaware and the Raritan is no laughing
matter, as I found to my cost.
The worst of this journey was, that, on arriving by the railroad car at
Amboy, which we did at midnight, we were compelled to wait unhoused here
until three or four in the morning, the steamer not departing until that
hour for New York. The example those insatiable vermin made of me with
four hours' leisure in which to work their wicked will, I even now sweat
to think on; one of my eyes was hermetically sealed up, and my upper lip
would have matched that of any Guinea negro, whilst my hands were so
swollen that I could not close them without pain and difficulty: in
short, as Roque says, there was not "a sounder-bitten bully in all
Andalusia."
Halting for one day at New York, I proceeded by the morning boat to
West-point with the intention of resting here a few days: but not having
taken the precaution of writing on to secure a chamber, I was
indifferently provided for; this charming spot only possessing one
hotel, which is a concession made by government to the public, as it is
properly only a military post, and the seat of the national Military
College.
Much has been said and sung, well and ill, of the beauty of the place,
but certainly not one word too much, for language can hardly convey any
just notion of the variety of attributes Nature has laid under
contribution, and here combined, for the embellishment of this most
perfect spot.
In the cool hour of twilight I strolled a little way up the western
hill, and thence looked back upon the hotel and the lines of tents
beyond, for at this season the cadets were in camp; excepting the hum of
myriads of busy insects, not a sound was to be heard; the fire-fly was
filling the lower grounds with his dazzling light, and seemed the only
thing that lived or moved there; when suddenly the sharp roll of a drum,
followed by a bugle-call, broke in on this tranquillity, and
disenchanted the scene which I had just decided must have been designed
by Nature as a temple to Solitude.
The next morning I quitted West-point, and in the afternoon landed once
again in Albany, where I took a couple of days' repose, and employed
myself in making inquiries and settling my route to Niagara, the idea of
visiting which wonder became all-absorbing; the long cherished desire
was about to be gratified, the dream of years to be realized. All
obstacles of business being removed, I grew restless and impatient of
further delay; I had, however, pledged myself to make a visit by the
way, and was only waiting for a couple of friends who were to be my
travelling companions.