With expectations highly raised, and for a long time cultivated and
encouraged by an eager inspection of all the prints I could collect, and
a perusal of glowing descriptions in both prose and poetry, did I at
length wake on the morning which was to introduce me to the beauties of
this vaunted river.
My first act was to rush to my window, and throw open shutter and sash.
It was six o'clock, the sun was up, and the sky cloudless; thanking my
lucky star, which had prevailed to my wish, I hurried through my toilet,
and away to the foot of Courtland-street, from whose wharf the steamboat
Champion was advertised to start at seven A.M. Punctual to the hour, we
slipped our moorings, and in a minute were gallantly heading up the
Hudson, breasting its current at the rate of fifteen miles per hour.
Hoboken and its Elysian fields were passed like lightning. Casting one
backward glance, I perceived Jersey city floating indistinctly in the
golden haze of morning; whilst the yet more distant heights of Long and
Staten Islands, with the dividing Narrows, showed like two dusky clouds
with a pathway of silver drawn between.
I was first struck by a near view of that singular range of cliff, the
Palisadoes, so named from the face of the rock bearing a resemblance to
a gigantic stockade rising from the bank of the river, along whose
southern side it is continued for a considerable distance. Lee's Fort is
pointed out; the Tappan Zee is next entered, upon whose border lies the
scene of poor Andre's capture; and farther on is the point from which
the traitor Arnold made his timely flight.
All these, with other memorable sites, are in turn pointed out, glanced
at, and rapidly left behind. But I am free to confess historical
associations were lost upon me; they awakened no sympathy in my mind; it
was absorbed, filled, bewildered, in the admiration which each
rapidly-opening point awakened, for never before this fair morning had
such a succession of matchless river views passed before my delighted
eyes.
"Write down your first impressions of scenery when fairly viewed, and
your descriptions will at least have correctness to recommend them."
Somebody, I know, says something very like this; and I have hitherto
quoted it as an axiom: but alas! what rule, however sage, but meets
exceptions; for what man endowed with any ordinary share of devotion to
Nature, and admiration of her handiwork, dare venture to set down his
first impressions of this enchanting Hudson whilst the overwhelming
influence it creates is yet dazzling his imagination! I say
overwhelming, because such, in sober truth, was its first effect on me.
I was at times unable to venture the expression of all I felt even to
myself: I sought to avoid the intelligent friends who accompanied me,
and am not ashamed to add, that, albeit "unused to the melting mood," I
here was affected almost to weakness. There might, perhaps, have been
chords awakened that helped this fancy; but in no mood could an
enthusiast of Nature, I think, feel otherwise than "rapt" when free for
the first time to view, on such a day, such glorious magic pass before
his sight; for, in our rapid flight, I could compare the effect of all I
saw to glamour only.
The grape-covered steeps of the old Rhine, the mountain-enshrined lochs
of our Hielans, with their clear blue waters, and the sweet valleys in
which the little lakes of Killarney are set like gems,--all are lovely,
and all of these appear to me to have contributed models for this
masterpiece, each to be equalled, if not surpassed.
But I must check my pen, since disjointed eulogium will do little
towards satisfying the curious or silencing the sceptical; and for
description in reasonable detail, worthy the subject, only one hand in
our age has existed endowed by nature to grapple with such a task, and
that wizard hand lies mouldering now beneath the ruins of Dryburg Abbey!
Above West Point and the pass of the highlands the river expands
grandly, forming the Bay of Newburg. The town of this name lies prettily
spread along the face of a gently rising hill; and in a meadow at the
foot of the town stands a venerable-looking stone-built house, rendered
memorable from having been the residence of Washington when at this
place; which, bordering upon his stronghold, the highlands, was often
his head-quarters.
On the opposite side of the river, deep within the bight of the bay,
lies the stirring town of Fish-kill, occupied by a colony originally
from the island of Nantucket, who carry on from this place their
adventurous trade of whale-fishing; and appear, indeed, to have roused
their neighbours of Newburg and Hudson to imitate their enterprise; many
ships, the joint property of the most spirited of the community, being
now yearly fitted out in these places, and sent to hunt the sperm-whale
about the world.
Above this bay the river again narrows, and the scenery upon its banks
assumes a softer character: spacious meadows with well-cultivated lands
stretch widely to the distant wooded heights; the bold outline of the
highlands is drawn about the rear; and in front the loftier Catskills
push their rugged peaks amongst the clouds.
From Poughkeepsie, numerous country seats occupy the now park-like banks
of the river to the north, which, although lying from eighty to one
hundred miles distant from New York, may be yet considered reasonably
near; for six or seven hours brings the boat up, and in the course of
the day there do not pass fewer than five or six. On this morning I met
on board the Champion Messrs. W----'s and L----e, on their way to the
summer abode of their families: they were landed at Hyde Park, ninety
miles distant from New York, before one o'clock.
By half past five we were laid alongside the wharf of Albany, having
steamed one hundred and sixty miles in ten hours and a half, including
many stoppages of perhaps a couple of minutes each; and nothing can be
more readily executed than one of these pulls-up, with the discharge or
reception of luggage or passengers.