WADY RAHABA

[p.588] S. b. W. I found here a small chain of white and red sand-stone

hills in the midst of granite. The morning was so very cold that we were

obliged to stop and light a fire, round which we sat till sunrise; my

feet and hands were absolutely benumbed, for neither gloves or stockings

are in fashion among Bedouins. We continued in the valley, crossing

several hills, till at four hours and a half we reached Wady Rahaba

[Arabic], in the lower parts of which we had passed a very rainy night

on the 17th. Rahaba is one of the principal valleys on this side of the

peninsula; it is broad, and affords good pasturage. We halted under a

granite rock in the middle of it, close by about a dozen small

buildings, which are called by the Bedouins Makhsen (magazines), and

which serve them as a place of deposit for their provision, clothes,

money, &c. As Bedouins are continually moving about, they find it

inconvenient to carry with them what they do not constantly want; they

therefore leave whatever they have not immediate need of in these

magazines, to which they repair as occasion requires. Almost every

Bedouin in easy circumstances has one of them; I have met with them in

several parts of the mountains, always in clusters of ten or twenty

together. They are at most ten feet high, generally about ten or twelve

feet square, constructed with loose stones, covered with the trunks of

date trees, and closed with a wooden door and lock. These buildings are

altogether so slight, and the doors so insecure, that a stone would be

sufficient to break them open; no watchmen are left to guard them, and

they are in such solitary spots that they might easily be plundered in

the night, without the thief being ever discovered. But such is the good

faith of the Towara towards each other, that robberies of this kind are

almost unheard of; and their Sheikh Szaleh, whose magazine is well known

to contain fine dresses, shawls, and dollars, considers his property as

safe there as it would be in the best

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