AIN MEFRAK

[p.434] stone walls remain in several places. At the extremity of the

Wady are the ruins of an ancient city, called Betahy (Arabic),

consisting of large heaps of hewn blocks of silicious stone; the trees

on this mountain are thinly scattered. At a quarter of an hour from

Betahy we reached an encampment, composed of Lyathene and Naymat, where

we alighted, and rested for the night.

August 24th.—Our road lay S.S.W.; in one hour we came to Ain Mefrak

(Arabic), where are some ruins. From thence we ascended a mountain, and

continued along the upper ridge of Djebel Shera. To our right was a

tremendous precipice, on the other side of which runs the chain of sand-

rocks which begin near Wady Mousa. To the west of these rocks we saw the

great valley forming the continuation of the Ghor. At the end of three

hours, after having turned a little more southward, we arrived at a

small encampment of Djaylat (Arabic) where we stopped to breakfast. The

Bedouin tents which composed a great part of this encampment were the

smallest I had ever seen; they were about four feet high, and ten in

length. The inhabitants were very poor, and could not afford to give us

coffee; our breakfast or dinner therefore consisted of dry barley cakes,

which we dipped in melted goat’s grease. The intelligence which I learnt

here was extremely agreeable; our landlord told us that a caravan was to

set out in a few days for Cairo, from a neighbouring encampment of

Howeytat, and that they intended to proceed straight across the desert.

This was exactly what I wished, for I could not divest myself of

apprehensions of danger in being exposed to the undisciplined soldiers

of Akaba. It had been our intention to reach Akaba from hence in two

days, by way of the mountainous district of Reszeyfa (a part of Shera so

called) and Djebel Hesma; but we now gladly changed our route, and

departed for the encampment of the Howeytat. We turned to the S.E. and

in half an

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