[p.315] circumference: there are remains of a stone channel
communicating with the Birket. Some of my companions asserted that the
pond contained a spring, while others denied it; from which I inferred
that the water never dries up completely. I take this to be the Lake
Phiala, laid down in the maps of Syria, as there is no other lake or
pond in the neighbourhood. From hence towards Feik, upon the mountains
to the E. of the lake of Tiberias, is an open country intersected by
many Wadys. At ten hours we passed a large hill to the left, called Tel
el Khanzyr [Arabic], the boars hill. The ground was here covered with
the finest pasturage; the dry grass was as high as a horse, and so
thick, that we passed through it with difficulty. At ten hours and a
half are several springs by the side of the road, called Ayoun Essemmam
[Arabic]. Eleven hours and a quarter, are the ruins of a city called
Noworan [Arabic], with a copious spring near it. Some walls yet remain,
and large hewn stones are lying about. At thirteen hours is the bridge
over the Jordan, called Djissr Beni Yakoub [Arabic]; the road continues
in an easy slope till a quarter of an hour above the bridge, where it
becomes a steep descent. The river flows in a narrow bed, and with a
rapid stream; for the lake Houle, whose southern extremity is about
three quarters of an hour north of the bridge, is upon a level
considerably higher than that of the lake of Tiberias. The bridge is of
a solid construction, with four arches: on its E. side is a Khan, much
frequented by travellers, in the middle of which are the ruins of an
ancient square building constructed with basalt, and having columns in
its four angles. The Khan contains also a spring. The Pasha of Damascus
here keeps a guard of a few men, principally for the purpose of
collecting the Ghaffer, or tax paid by all Christians who cross the
bridge. The ordinary Ghaffer is about nine-pence a head, but the
pilgrims who pass here about Easter, in their way to Jerusalem, pay
seven