[p.268]road descends over barren hills towards El Hossn, distant five
hours and a quarter from Adjeloun.
El Hossn is the principal village of the district called Beni Obeid; it
stands on the declivity of the mountain, and is inhabited by upwards of
one hundred families, of which about twenty-five are Greek Christians,
under the jurisdiction of the patriarch of Jerusalem. I saw nothing
remarkable here but a number of wells cut out of the rock. I happened to
alight at the same house where M. Seetzen had been detained for eleven
days, by bad weather; his hospitable old landlord, Abdullah el Ghanem,
made many enquiries after him.
May 4th.--I found very bad company at El Hossn. It is usual for the
Pasha of Damascus to send annually one of the principal officers of his
government to visit the southern provinces of the Pashalik, to exact the
arrears of the Miri, and to levy new extortions. The Aga of Tabaria, who
was invested this year with the office, had just arrived in the village
with a suite of one hundred and fifty horsemen, whom he had quartered
upon the peasants; my landlord had seven men and fifteen horses for his
share, and although he killed a sheep, and boiled about twenty pounds of
rice, for supper, yet the two officers of the party in his house were
continually asking for more, spoiled all his furniture, and, in fact,
acted worse than an enemy would have done. It is to avoid vexations of
this kind that the peasants abandon the villages most exposed to such
visits.
We left Hossn late in the morning and proceeded to Erbad [Arabic], one
hour and a quarter N.N.E. from the former. Our road lay over the plain.
Erbad is the chief place in the district of that name, likewise called
the district of Beni Djohma [Arabic], or of Bottein [Arabic], from the
Sheikh's being of the family of Bottein. The names of Beni Obeid, and
Beni Djohma, are probably derived