REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES, ETC., AT GEORGE'S ISLAND.
[At Tahiti.]
NOTE. The way of reckoning the day in Sea Journals is from Noon to Noon,
but as the most material transaction at this Island must hapen in the Day
time, this method will be attended with ill conveniences in inserting the
transactions of each day; for this reason I shall during our stay at this
Island, but no longer, reckon the day according to the Civil account that
is to begin and end at Midnight.
We had no sooner come to an Anchor in Royal Bay, as before-mentioned,
than a great number of the Natives in their Canoes came off to the Ship
and brought with them Cocoa Nuts, etc.; these they seem'd to set a great
value upon. Amongst those that came off to the Ship was an elderly man
whose Name was Owhaa, him the Gentlemen that had been here before in the
Dolphin* (* Lieutenant Gore and Mr. Molineux, the Master.) knew and had
often spoke of as one that had been of Service to them. This man
(together with some others) I took on board and made much of, thinking
that he might on some occasions be of use to us. As our stay at this
place was not likely to be very short, I thought it very necessary that
some order should be observed in Traficking with the Natives, that such
Merchandize as we had on board for that purpose might continue to bear a
proper value, and not leave it to everyone's own particular fancy, which
could not fail to bring on Confusion and Quarrels between us and the
Natives, and would infallibly lessen the value of such Articles as we had
to trafick with. In Order to prevent this, the following rules were
ordered to be Observed; viz.:--
Rules to be observed by every person in or belonging to His Majesty's
Bark the Endeavour for the better Establishing a regular and uniform
Trade for Provisions, etc., with the Inhabitants of George's Island:--
1. To endeavour by every fair means to Cultivate a Friendship with the
Natives, and to treat them with all imaginable humanity.
2. A Proper Person or Persons will be appointed to Trade with the Natives
for all manner of Provisions, Fruits, and other Productions of the Earth;
and no Officer or Seaman or other person belonging to the Ship, excepting
such as are so appointed, shall Trade or offer to Trade for any sort of
Provisions, Fruit or other Productions of the Earth, unless they have my
leave so to do.
3. Every Person employ'd on shore on any duty whatsoever is strictly to
attend to the same, and if by neglect he looseth any of His Arms or
working Tools, or suffers them to be stole, the full value thereof will
be charged against his pay, according to the Custom of the Navy in such
Cases, and he shall receive such further punishment as the nature of the
Offence may deserve.
4. The same Penalty will be inflicted upon every person who is found to
Embezzle, Trade, or Offer to Trade with any of the Ship's Stores of what
Nature so ever.
5. No sort of Iron or anything that is made of Iron, or any sort of Cloth
or other useful or necessary Articles, are to be given in Exchange for
anything but Provisions.
J.C.
As soon as the Ship was properly secured I went on shore, accompanied by
Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen,* (* Cook generally uses this term for
the civilians on board.) with a Party of Men under Arms; we took along
with us Owhaa--who took us to the place where the Dolphin watered, and
made signs to us as well as we could understand that we might Occupy that
ground, but it hapned not to be fit for our purpose. No one of the
Natives made the least opposition at our landing, but came to us with all
imaginable Marks of Friendship and Submission. We Afterwards made a
Circuit through the Woods, and then came on board. We did not find the
inhabitants to be numerous, and we imagin'd that several of them had fled
from their habitations upon our Arrival in the Bay.
Friday, 14th. This morning we had a great many Canoes about the Ship; the
most of them came from the Westward, and brought nothing with them but a
few Cocoa Nuts, etc. Two that appeared to be Chiefs we had on board,
together with several others, for it was a hard matter to keep them out
of the Ship, as they Climb like Munkeys; but it was still harder to keep
them from Stealing but everything that came within their reach; in this
they are Prodigious Expert. I made each of these two Chiefs a present of
a Hatchet, things that they seemed mostly to value. As soon as we had
partly got clear of these People I took 2 Boats and went to the Westward,
all the Gentlemen being along with me. My design was to see if there was
not a more commodious Harbour, and to try the disposition of the Natives,
having along with us the 2 Chiefs above mentioned; the first place we
landed at was in great Canoe Harbour (so called by Captain Wallis); here
the Natives Flocked about us in great numbers, and in as friendly a
manner as we could wish, only that they show'd a great inclination to
Pick our Pockets. We were conducted to a Chief, who for distinction sake
we called Hurcules. After staying a short time with him, and distributing
a few Presents about us, we proceeded farther, and came to a Chief who I
shall call Lycurgus; this man entertained us with broil'd fish, Cocoa
Nutts, etc., with great Hospitality, and all the time took great care to
tell us to take care of our Pockets, as a great number of People had
crowded about us. Notwithstanding the care we took, Dr. Solander and Dr.
Monkhouse had each of them their Pockets picked: the one of his spy glass
and the other of his snuff Box. As soon as Lycurgus was made acquainted
with the Theft he dispers'd the people in a moment, and the method he
made use of was to lay hold on the first thing that came in his way and
throw it at them, and happy was he or she that could get first out of his
way. He seem'd very much concern'd for what had hapned, and by way of
recompence offered us but everything that was in his House; but we
refused to accept of anything, and made signs to him that we only wanted
the things again. He had already sent people out after them, and it was
not long before they were return'd. We found the Natives very numerous
wherever we came, and from what we could judge seemed very peacably
inclin'd. About six o'Clock in the evening we return'd on board, very
well satisfied with our little Excursion.
Saturday, 15th. Winds at East during the day, in the Night a light breeze
off the land; and as I apprehend it be usual here for the Trade wind to
blow during a great part of the day from the Eastern Board, and to have
it Calm or light breezes from the land that is Southerly during the night
with fair weather, I shall only mention the wind and weather when they
deviate from this rule. This morning several of the Chiefs we had seen
Yesterday came on board, and brought with them Hogs, Bread fruit, etc.,
and for these we gave them Hatchets, Linnen, and such things as they
valued. Having not met with yesterday a more Convenient situation for
every purpose we wanted than the place we now are, I therefore, without
delay, resolved to pitch upon some spot upon the North-East point of the
Bay, properly situated for observing the Transit of Venus, and at the
same time under the command of the Ship's Guns, and there to throw up a
small fort for our defence. Accordingly I went ashore with a party of
men, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Green. We took along
with us one of Mr. Banks's Tents, and after we had fix'd upon a place fit
for our purpose we set up the Tent and marked out the ground we intended
to Occupy. By this time a number of the Natives had got collected
together about us, seemingly only to look on, as not one of them had any
weapon, either Offensive or defensive. I would suffer none to come within
the lines I had marked out, excepting one who appeared to be a chief and
old Owhaa--to these 2 men we endeavour'd to explain, as well as we could,
that we wanted that ground to Sleep upon such a number of nights and then
we should go away. Whether they understood us or no is uncertain, but no
one appeared the least displeased at what we was about; indeed the Ground
we had fixed upon was of no use to them, being part of the sandy Beach
upon the shore of the Bay, and not near to any of their Habitations. It
being too late in the day to do anything more, a party with a petty
officer was left to guard the Tent, while we with another party took a
Walk into the woods, and with us most of the natives. We had but just
crossed the River when Mr. Banks shott three Ducks at one shott, which
surprised them so much that most of them fell down as though they had
been shott likewise. I was in hopes this would have had some good effect,
but the event did not prove it, for we had not been long from the Tent
before the natives again began to gather about, and one of them more
daring than the rest pushed one of the Centinels down, snatched the
Musket out of his hand and made a push at him, and then made off, and
with him all the rest. Immediately upon this the Officer ordered the
party to fire, and the Man who took the musket was shot Dead before he
had got far from the Tent, but the musquet was carried quite off when
this hapned. I and Mr. Banks with the other party was about half a Mile
off, returning out of the woods, upon hearing the firing of Muskets, and
the Natives leaving us at the same time, we Suspected that something was
the matter and hastened our march, but before we arrived the whole was
over, and every one of the Natives fled except old Owhaa, who stuck by us
the whole time, and I believe from the first he either knew or had some
suspicion that the People would attempt something at the Tent, as he was
very much against our going into the Woods out of sight of the Tent.
However, he might have other reasons, for Mr. Hicks, being ashore the day
before, the natives would not permit him to go into the Woods. This made
me resolved to go and see whether they meant to prescribe bounds to us or
no. Old Owhaa, as I have said before, was the only one of the Natives
that stayed by us, and by his means we prevail'd on about 20 of them to
come to the Tent and there sit down with us, and Endeavour'd by every
means in our power to Convince them that the Man was kill'd for taking
away the Musket, and that we still would be friends with them. At sunset
they left us seemingly satisfied, and we struck our Tent and went on
board.
Sunday, 16th. This day worked the Ship nearer the Shore and moored her in
such a manner as to command all the shore of the North-East part of the
Bay, but more particularly the place where we intended to Erect a Fort.
Punished Richard Hutchins, seaman, with 12 lashes for disobeying
commands. Several of the Natives came down to the shore of the Bay, but
not one of them came off to the Ship during the whole day. In the evening
I went on shore with only a Boat's crew and some of the Gentlemen. The
Natives gathered about us to the Number of about 30 or 40, and brought us
Cocoa Nuts, etc., and seemed as friendly as ever.
Monday, 17th. At two o'Clock this morning, departed this life, Mr. Alex
Buchan, Landskip Draftsman to Mr. Banks, a Gentleman well skill'd in his
profession and one that will be greatly missed in the Course of this
Voyage. He had long been subject to a disorder in his Bowels, which had
more than once brought him to the very point of Death, and was at one
time subject to fits, of one of which he was taken on Saturday morning;
this brought on his former disorder, which put a Period to his life. Mr.
Banks thought it not so advisable to Inter the Body ashore in a place
where we were utter strangers to the Custom of the Natives on such
occasions; it was therefore sent out to sea and committed to that Element
with all the decency the Circumstance of the place would admit of. This
morning several of the Chiefs from the westward made us a Visit: they
brought with them Emblems of Peace, which are Young Plantain Trees. These
they put on board the Ship before they would venture themselves. They
brought us a present of 2 Hogs (an Article we find here very Scarce) and
some Bread Fruit; for these they had Hatchets and other things. In the
afternoon we set up one of the Ship's Tents ashore, and Mr. Green and
myself stay'd there the night to observe an eclipse of Jupiter's first
Satilite, which we was hinder'd from seeing by Clouds.
Tuesday, 18th. Cloudy weather with some showers of rain. This morning
took as many people out of the Ship as could possibly be spared, and set
about Erecting a Fort. Some were employ'd in throughing up intrenchment,
while others was cutting facines, Picquets, etc. The Natives were so far
from hindering us that several of them assisted in bringing the Picquets
and facines out of the woods, and seemed quite unconcern'd at what we was
about. The wood we made use of for this occasion we purchased of them,
and we cut no Tree down before we had first obtained their Consent. By
this time all the Ship's sails were unbent and the Armourer's Forge set
up to repair the Ironwork, etc. Served fresh Pork to the Ship's Company
to-day for the first time. This is like to be a very scarce Article with
us, but as to Bread fruit, Cocoa Nutts and Plaintains, the Natives supply
us with as much as we can destroy.
Wednesday, 19th. This morning Lycurgus, whose real name is
Toobouratomita, came with his family from the Westward in order, from
what we could understand, to live near us. He brought with him the cover
of a House, with several other Materials for building one. We intend to
requite the confidence this man seems to put in us by treating him with
all imaginable kindness. Got on shore some Empty Casks, which we placed
in a double row along the Bank of the River, by way of a breast work on
that side.
Thursday, 20th. Wind at South-East and Squally, with rain. All hands
employ'd on shore, and nothing remarkable, excepting a Hog weighing about
90 pound was brought alongside the Ship for Sale, but those who brought
it would not part with it for anything we could offer them but a
Carpenter's broad axe, and this was what we could not part with; they
carried it away. Thus we see those very People who but 2 years ago
prefer'd a spike Nail to an Axe of any Sort, have so far learnt the use
of them that they will not part with a Pig of 10 or 12 pounds weight for
anything under a Hatchet, and even those of an inferior or small sort are
of no great esteem with them, and small Nails such as 10 penny, 20 penny,
or any under 40 penny, are of no value at all; but beads, particularly
white cut glass beads, are much valued by them. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander lays ashore to-night for the first time, their Markee's being
set up within the Walls of the Fort and fit for their reception.
Friday, 21st. Got the Copper Oven ashore and fixed it in the bank of the
breastwork. Yesterday, as Mr. Green and Dr. Monkhouse were taking a walk,
they happened to meet with the Body of the Man we had shott, as the
Natives made them fully understand; the manner in which the body was
interred being a little extraordinary. I went to-day, with some others,
to see it. Close by the House wherein he resided when living was built a
small shed, but whether for the purpose or no I cannot say, for it was in
all respects like some of the Sheds or Houses they live in. This shed was
about 14 or 16 feet long, 10 or 12 broad, and of a proportionable height.
One end was wholy open, the other end and two sides was partly inclosed
with a kind of wicker'd work. In this Shed lay the Corps, upon a Bier or
frame of wood, with a matted bottom, like a Cott frame used at Sea, and
Supported by 4 Posts about 5 feet from the Ground. The body was cover'd
with a Matt, and over that a white Cloth; alongside of the Body lay a
wooden Club, one of their Weapons of War. The Head of the Corps lay next
the close end of the Shed, and at this end lay 2 Cocoa Nutt Shells, such
as they sometimes use to carry water in; at the other end of the Shed was
a Bunch of Green leaves, with some dry'd twigs tied all together and
stuck in the Ground, and a stone lying by them as big as a Cocoa Nutt.
Near to these lay a young Plaintain Tree, such as they use as Emblems of
Peace, and by it lay a stone Axe. At the open end of the Shed was stuck
upwright in the ground the Stem of a Plaintain Tree about 5 feet high, on
the Top of which stood a Cocoa Nutt shell full of fresh water, and on the
side of the post hung a small Bag, wherein was a few pieces of Bread
Fruit roasted ready for eating. Some of the pieces were fresh and others
Stale. The Natives did not seem to like that we should go near the body,
and stood at a little distance themselves while we examin'd these
matters, and appeared to be pleased when we came away. It certainly was
no very agreeable place, for it stunk intollerably, and yet it was not
above 10 yards from the Huts wherein several of the living resided. The
first day we landed we saw the Skeleton of a human being laying in this
manner under a shade that was just big enough to cover it, and some days
after that, when some of the Gentlemen went with a design to examine it
more narrowly, it was gone. It was at this time thought that this manner
of interring their Dead was not common to all ranks of People, as this
was the first we had seen Except the Skeleton just mentioned; but various
were the opinions concerning the Provisions, etc., laid about the Dead.
Upon the whole, it should seem that these people not only believe in a
Supreem being, but in a future state also, and this must be meant either
as an Offering to some Deitie or for the use of the Dead in the other
world; but this latter is not very probable, as there appeared to be no
Priest Craft in the thing, for whatever Provisions were put there it
appeared very plain to us that there it remain'd until it consumed away
of itself. It is most likely that we shall see more of this before we
leave the Island, but if it is a Religious ceremony we may not be able to
understand it, for the Misteries of most Religions are very Dark and not
easily understood, even by those who profess them.
Saturday, 22nd, to Thursday, 27th. Nothing worthy of Note Hapned. The
people were Continually at work upon the Fort,* (* Near the site of this
Fort is still a Tamarind Tree, planted by Captain Cook. All visitors to
Tahiti go to see "Cook's Tamarind.") and the Natives were so far
reconciled to us that they rather assisted us than not. This day we
mounted 6 Swivels at the Fort, which was now nearly finished. This struck
the Natives with some fear, and some fishermen who lived upon the point
moved farther off, and old Owhaa told us by signs that after 4 days we
should fire Great Guns from the Ship. There were some other Circumstances
co-operated with this man's prophecy, whether an opinion hath prevailed
amongst them that after that time we intend to fire upon them, or that
they intend to Attack us, we know not: the first we do not intend unless
the latter takes place, which is highly improbable.
Friday, 28th. This morning a great number of the natives came to us in
their Canoes from differant parts of the Island, several of whom we had
not seen before. One of these was the Woman called by the Dolphins the
Queen of this Island; she first went to Mr. Banks's tent at the fort,
where she was not known, till the Master, happening to go ashore, who
knew her, and brought her on board with 2 Men and several Women, who
seem'd to be all of her family. I made them all some presents or other,
but to Oberiea (for that is this Woman's name) I gave several things, in
return for which, as soon as I went on shore with her, she gave me a Hog
and several Bunches of plaintains. These she caused to be carried from
her Canoes up to the Fort in a kind of Procession, she and I bringing up
the rear. This Woman is about 40 years of Age, and, like most of the
other Women, very Masculine. She is head or chief of her own family or
Tribe, but to all appearance hath no Authority over the rest of the
Inhabitants, whatever she might have when the Dolphin was here. Hercules,
whose real Name is Tootaha, is, to all appearance, the Chief Man of the
Island, and hath generally visited us twice a week since we have been
here, and came always attended by a number of Canoes and people; and at
those times we were sure to have a supply, more or less, of everything
the Island afforded, both from himself and from those that came with him,
and it is a Chance thing that we get a Hog at any other time. He was with
us at this Time, and did not appear very well pleased at the Notice we
took of Oberiea.
Saturday, 29th. This day got the 4 guns out of the Hold, and Mounted 2 of
them on the Quarter Deck and the other 2 in the Fort on the Bank of the
River.
Sunday, 30th. This being the day that Owhaa told us that we should fire
our Guns, no one of us went from the Fort; however, the day passed over
without any Visible alteration in the behaviour of any one of the
Natives.
[May 1769.]
Monday, 1st May. This morning Tootaha came on board the Ship, and was
very Desireous of seeing into every Chest and Drawer that was in the
Cabin. I satisfied his curiosity so far as to open most of those that
belong'd to me. He saw several things that he took a fancy to, and
collected them together; but at last he Cast his eyes upon the Adze I had
from Mr. Stephens* (* The Secretary of the Admiralty.) that was made in
imitation of one of their Stone Adzes or Axes.* (* The stone adzes of
Tahiti were of excellent workmanship.) The Moment he lays his hands upon
it he of his own accord put away everything he had got before, and ask'd
me if I would give him that, which I very readily did, and he went away
without asking for any one thing more, which I by experience knew was a
sure sign that he was well pleased with what he had got.
This day one of the Natives, who appeared to be a Chief, dined with us,
as he had done some days before; but then there were always some Women
present, and one or another of them put the Victuals into his Mouth, but
this day there hapned to be none to Perform that Office. When he was
help'd to victuals and desir'd to eat, he sat in the Chair like a
Statute, without once attempting to put a Morsel to his mouth, and would
certainly have gone without his dinner if one of the Servants had not fed
him. We have often found the women very officious in feeding us, from
which it would seem that it is the Custom on some occasions for them to
feed the Chiefs. However, this is the only instance of that kind we have
seen, or that they could not help themselves as well as any of us.
This afternoon we set up the Observatory and took the Astronomical
Quadrant ashore for the first time, together with some other Instruments,
the fort being now finished and made as Tenantable as the time, Nature,
and situation of the Ground and Materials we had to work upon would admit
of. The North and South parts consisted of a Bank of Earth 4 1/2 feet
high on the inside, and a Ditch without, 10 feet broad and 6 feet deep;
on the West side facing the Bay a Bank of Earth 4 feet high, and
Palisades upon that, but no Ditch, the works being at high-water mark. On
the East side upon the Bank of the river was placed a double row of
Casks, and, as this was the weakest side, the 2 four Pounders were
planted there, and the whole was defended, beside these 2 Guns, with 6
Swivels, and generally about 45 Men with small Arms, including the
Officers and Gentlemen who resided ashore. I now thought myself perfectly
secure from anything these people would attempt.
Tuesday, 2nd. This morning, about 9 o'Clock, when Mr. Green and I went to
set up the Quadrant, it was not to be found. It had never been taken out
of the Packing Case (which was about 18 Inches square) since it came from
Mr. Bird, the Maker; and the whole was pretty heavy, so that it was a
matter of Astonishment to us all how it could be taken away, as a
Centinal stood the whole night within 5 Yards of the door of the Tent,
where it was put, together with several other Instruments; but none of
them was missing but this. However, it was not long before we got
information that one of the Natives had taken it away and carried it to
the Eastward. Immediately a resolution was taken to detain all the large
Canoes that were in the Bay, and to seize upon Tootaha and some others of
the principal people, and keep them in Custody until the Quadrant was
produced; but this last we did not think proper immediately to put in
Execution, as we had only Oberiea in our power, and the detaining of her
by force would have alarm'd all the rest. In the meantime, Mr. Banks (who
is always very alert upon all occasions wherein the Natives are
concern'd) and Mr. Green went into the Woods to enquire of Toobouratomita
which way and where the Quadrant was gone. I very soon was inform'd that
these 3 was gone to the Eastward in quest of it, and some time after I
followed myself with a small party of Men; but before I went away I gave
orders that if Tootaha came either to the Ship or the Fort he was not to
be detain'd, for I found he had no hand in taking away the Quadrant, and
that there was almost a Certainty of getting it again. I met Mr. Banks
and Mr. Green about 4 miles from the Fort, returning with the Quadrant.
This was about Sun set, and we all got back to the Fort about 8 o'Clock,
where I found Tootaha in Custody, and a number of the Natives crowding
about the Gate of the Fort. My going into the Woods with a party of Arm'd
men so alarmed the Natives that in the evening they began to move off
with their Effects, and a Double Canoe putting off from the Bottom of the
Bay was ohserv'd by the Ship, and a Boat sent after her. In this Canoe
hapned to be Tootaha, and as soon as our Boat came up with her, he and
all the people that were in the Canoe jump'd overboard, and he only was
taken up and brought on board the Ship, together with the Canoe; the rest
were permitted to swim to the Shore. From the Ship Tootaha was sent to
the Fort, where Mr. Hicks thought proper to detain him until I return'd.
The Scene between Toobouratomita and Tootaha, when the former came into
the Fort and found the latter in Custody, was really moving. They wept
over each other for some time. As for Tootaha, he was so far prepossessed
with the thought that he was to be kill'd that he could not be made
sencible to the Contrary till he was carried out of the Fort to the
people, many of whom Expressed their joy by embracing him; and, after
all, he would not go away until he had given us two Hogs, notwithstanding
we did all in our power to hinder him, for it is very certain that the
Treatment he had meet with from us did not merit such a reward. However,
we had it in our power to make him a present of equal value whenever we
pleased.
Wednesday, 3rd. Very early this morning Tootaha sent for the Canoe we had
detained yesterday, and in the Afternoon sent a man for an Axe and a
Shirt in return for the Hogs he gave us last night; but as this man told
us that Tootaha would not come near us himself in less than 10 days, we
thought proper not to send them, to try if he would not come himself for
them sooner.
Thursday, 4th. Some people came to the Fort to-day from York Island; one
of them gave us an account of 22 Islands lying in this Neighbourhood. Set
up the 2 Clocks; one in the Tent wherein Mr. Green and I lay, and the
other in the Observatory. This evening Tootaha sent a man again for the
Axe and Shirt, and we sent him word by the same man that Mr. Banks and I
would come and see him to-morrow and bring them along with us, for it now
became necessary that we should take some steps to reconcile this man to
us in order to procure a sufficient supply of Bread fruit, and Cocoa
Nuts, which we have not had for these 2 days past, owing, as we
apprehend, to Tootaha not being reconciled to us, or otherwise the people
take this method to shew their resentment of the Treatment their Chief
meet with.
Friday, 5th. Early this morning Tootaha sent some of his people to put us
in mind of our promise, and these seem'd very uneasy until we set out,
which Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself did about 10 o'clock in the
Pinnace, having one of these men with us. As soon as we came to Appara,
the place where Tootaha resided, we saw a great number of People at the
landing place near his House; one among them, who had a large Turban
about his Head, and a long white stick in his Hand, drove the others from
the landing place by beating them with his Stick, and throwing stones at
them, and at the same time directed us whereabouts to land. After we had
landed he conducted us to the Chief, but in this there was no order,
everyone crowded upon us crying out "Tyo Tootaha," this Tootaha was our
Friend. We found the chief setting in the shade under a large Tree, with
a Circle of old men round him; he made us set down by him, and
immediately asked for the Axe. I then gave him one, together with an
upper Garment made of Broad Cloth after their Fashion, and a Shirt. The
Garment he put on, but the Shirt he gave to the man who first received us
at landing, who was now seated by us, and the Chief seemed desirous that
we should take particular notice of him. By that Time Obaria, and several
other women whom we knew, came and sat down by us. Tootaha did not stay
long before he went away, as we thought to show himself to the people in
his new Dress. He was not gone long before he return'd and took his seat
again for a few minutes, then went away again, as we was told, to order
something to be got for us to Eat, and at this time we gladly would have
gone too, being almost Suffocated with the Crowd that was about us.
However, here we remained for about 10 Minutes longer, when word was
brought us that the Chief wanted us. We were then conducted to our own
Boat, where we found him setting alone under the Awning. He made signs to
us to come to him, which we did, and as many with us as the Boat would
hold. Here he ordered some Bread fruit and Cocoa Nut to be brought, of
both of which we tasted.
After we had set here sometime, a Message was brought to the Chief, who
immediately went out of the Boat, and we was desired to follow, and was
conducted to a large Aria or Court Yard on one side of his House, where
we were entertained with Public wrestling. Tootaha seated himself at one
end of the place, and several of his Principal men sat round him in a
Semicircle. We were desir'd to sit down here likewise, but we rather
chose to walk about. Everything being now ready, several men entered the
Theater, 8, 10, or 12, sometimes more. These walked about in a Stooping
Poster, with their left hand upon their right breast, and with their
Right hand Open struck with a smack their left Arm and fore-arm. In this
manner they walked about until one Challenged another, which was done by
motion and jesture, without speaking one word. The 2 Antagonists would
then meet and endeavour to seize each other by the thighs, but if that
fail'd they would seize each other by the Hair of the Head or wherever
they could, and then Wrestle together until by main Strength the one or
the other was thrown on his back. This was always (Except once) followed
by three Huzzas from some old men who sat in the House, and at the same
time another Company of men would dance for about a Minute, the Wrestlers
all the time continuing their game without taking the least notice of
anything else. The only dexterity the Wrestlers seemed to make use of was
in first seizing each other, for after they had closed it was all decided
by Main strength. It would sometimes happen that neither the one nor the
other could throw his Antagonist; in this Case they would either part by
mutual consent or were parted by others. The Conqueror never exulted over
the Conquer'd, neither did the Conquer'd ever repine at his ill luck, but
the whole was carried on with great good Humour. There were present,
Young and old, near 500 People. The women do not seem to partake of this
diversion, only some few of the Principal ones were present, and that
appeared to be owing to us being there.
After this was over we were given to understand that we were to go to
Dinner, and were desired to follow Tootaha, who led us into our own Boat,
and soon after came a small Pig ready roasted, with some Bread Fruit and
Cocoa Nuts. Here we thought we were to have dined, but Tootaha, after
waiting about 10 Minutes, made signs to us to put off the Boat and go a
Board, which we did, and bring him and Toobouratomida along with us. As
soon as we got on board we all dined on the Cheer the Chief had provided.
We soon found the good effects of having made friends with this man, for
it was no sooner known to the Natives that he was on board the Ship than
they brought Bread Fruit, Cocoa Nuts, etc., to the Fort.
Saturday, 6th; Sunday, 7th. Nothing remarkable, only that the Natives
supply us with as much bread fruits and Cocoa Nuts as we can destroy.
Monday, 8th. Early this morning the Master went to the Eastward in the
Pinnace to try if he could procure some Hogs and Fowls from that Quarter;
but he return'd in the evening without success. He saw but very few, and
those the inhabitants pretended belonged to Tootaha; so great is this
man's influence or authority over them that they dare part with nothing
without his Consent, or otherwise they use his Name to Excuse themselves
from parting with the few they have, for it is very certain these things
are in no great plenty with them.
Tuesday, 9th; Wednesday, 10th; Thursday, 11th. Nothing remarkable hapned
for these three days. Oberiea, the Dolphin's queen, made us a Visit for
the first time since the Quadrant was Stolen. She introduced herself with
a Small Pig, for which she had a Hatchet, and as soon as she got it she
Lugg'd out a Broken Axe, and several pieces of Old Iron. These, I
believe, she must have had from the Dolphin; the Axe she wanted to be
mended, and Axes made of the old iron. I obliged her in the first, but
excused myself in the latter: since the Natives had seen the Forge at
work they have frequently brought pieces of Iron to be made into one sort
of Tool or other, which hath generally been done whenever it did not
hinder our own work--being willing to Oblige them in everything in my
power. These Pieces of old Iron the Natives must have got from the
Dolphin, as we know of no other Ship being here;* (* M. de Bougainville,
in the French ships La Boudeuse and L'Etoile, had visited Tahiti the year
before, after its discovery by the Dolphin. He was unfortunate in his
choice of anchorage, and his ships lost anchors and got into various
difficulties. The crews were also much afflicted with scurvy.) and very
probable some from us, for there is no species of Theft they will not
commit to get this Article, and I may say the same of the common Seamen
when in these parts.
Friday, 12th. Cloudy weather with Showers of rain. This morning a Man and
2 Young Women, with some others, came to the Fort, whom we had not seen
before, and as their manner of introducing themselves was a little
uncommon, I shall insert it. Mr. Banks was as usual at the gate of the
Fort trading with the people, when he was told that some Strangers were
coming, and therefore stood to receive them. The Company had with them
about a Dozen young Plantain Trees, and some other small Plants, these
they laid down about 20 feet from Mr. Banks; the people then made a Lane
between him and them. When this was done the Man (who appeared to be only
a Servant to the two Women) brought the young Plantains singly, together
with some of the other plants, and gave them to Mr. Banks, and at the
delivery of each pronounced a Short sentence which we understood not.
After he had thus disposed of all his plantain trees, he took several
pieces of Cloth and spread them on the ground. One of the Young women
then stepp'd upon the Cloth, and with as much innocency as one could
possibly conceive, exposed herself, entirely naked, from the waist
downwards; in this manner she turn'd herself once or twice round, I am
not certain which, then stepped off the cloth, and dropp'd down her
Cloaths. More Cloth was then spread upon the former, and she again
performed the same Ceremony. The Cloth was then rowled up and given to
Mr. Banks, and the two Young women went and Embraced him, which ended the
Ceremony.
Saturday, 13th. Nothing worthy of Note hapned during the day; in the
Night one of the Natives attempted to get into the Fort by Climbing over
the Wall, but, being discovered by the Centinel, he made off. The Iron
and Iron Tools daily in use at the Armourer's Forge are Temptations that
these people cannot possibly withstand.
Sunday, 14th. This day we performed divine Service in one of the Tents in
the fort, where several of the Natives attended and behaved with great
decency the whole time. This day closed with an odd sceen at the Gate of
the Fort, where a young Fellow above 6 feet high made love to a little
Girl about 10 or 12 years of Age publickly before several of our people
and a number of the Natives. What makes me mention this is because it
appear'd to be done according to Custom, for there were several women
present, particularly Obariea and several others of the better sort, and
these were so far from showing the least disapprobation that they
instructed the Girl how she should Act her part, who, young as she was,
did not seem to want it.
Monday, 15th. Winds variable and cloudy weather. Last Night one of our
Water Casks was taken away from the outside of the Fort, where they stood
full of water. In the morning there was not one of the Natives but what
knew it was gone; yet, Contrary to what we had always met with on these
Occasions, not one of them would give us any information about it, and I
thought it of too little Consequence to take any methods to Oblige them.
In the evening Toobouratomida and his Wife, and a Man belonging to
Tootaha, would needs lay all Night by the Casks to prevent any more from
being taken away; but, as we had placed a Centinel there, this care of
theirs became unnecessary, and they were prevailed upon to go home; but
before they went away they made signs to the Centinel to keep his Eyes
open. From this it should seem that they knew that an attempt would be
made in the night to take away more, which would have been done had not
the Centinel prevented it.
Tuesday, 16th. Winds Westerly. The morning cloudy, with heavy showers of
rain; the Remainder of the day fair weather. From this day nothing
remarkable hapned until
Monday, 22nd, which was usher'd in with thick Cloudy weather, and
Excessive hard Showers of rain and very much Thunder and Lightning, which
Continued the Greater part of the day.
Tuesday, 23rd. Wind Southerly and fair weather in the Forenoon, but in
the Afternoon Showers. We have had a Scarcity of all sorts of Fruit for
these 2 days past, which we immagine to be owing to the Wet weather.
Wednesday, 24th. Fine clear weather all this day. Having found the Long
boat Leakey for these few days past, we hauld her ashore to-day to stop
the leakes, when, to our great surprise, we found her bottom so much
Eaten by the Worms that it was necessary to give her a new one, and all
the Carpenters were immediately set to work upon her.
Thursday, 25th. Most part of these 24 hours Cloudy, with frequent Showers
of Rain.
Friday, 26th. Some flying showers again. This morning we hauled the
pinnace a Shore to examine her bottom, and had the Satisfaction to find
that not one worm had touched it, notwithstanding she hath been in the
water nearly as long as the Long Boat. This must be owing to the White
Lead with which her bottom is painted, the Long boats being paid with
Varnish of Pine, for no other reason can be assign'd why the one should
be preserved and the other destroy'd, when they are both built on the
Same sort of Wood and have been in equal use. From this Circumstance
alone the Bottom of all Boats sent into Countrys where these worms are
ought to be painted with White Lead, and the Ships supply'd with a good
stock in order to give them a New Coat whenever it's necessary. By this
means they would be preserved free from these destructive Vermin. The
Long boat's Bottom being so much destroy'd appear'd a little
extraordinary, as the Dolphin's Launch was in the Water at this very
place full as long, and no such thing happened to her, as the Officers
that were in the Dolphin say.
Saturday, 27th. Winds variable and fair weather.
Sunday, 28th. Winds Southerly and clear weather. This morning myself, Mr.
Banks, and Dr. Solander set out in the Pinnace to pay Tootaha a Visit,
who had moved from Apparra to the South-West part of the island. What
induced us to make him this visit was a Message we had received from him
some days ago importing that if we would go to him he would give us
several Hogs. We had no great faith in this, yet we were resolved to try,
and set out accordingly. It was Night before we reached the place where
he was, and, as we had left the Boat about half-way behind us, we were
obliged to take up our Quarters with him for the Night. The Chief
received us in a Friendly manner, and a Pig was ordered to be killed and
dressed for Supper; but we saved his Life for the present, thinking it
would do us more service in another place, and we supped on Fruit and
what else we could get. Here was, along with the Chief, Obariea and many
more that we knowd. They all seem'd to be travellers like ourselves, for
neither the Canoes they had along with them, nor the Houses where they
were, were sufficient to contain the one half of them. We were in all Six
of us, and after supper began to look out for Lodgings. Mr. Banks went to
one place, Dr. Solander to another, while I and the other 3 went to a
third. We all of us took as much care of the little we had about us as
possible, knowing very well what sort of People we were among; yet,
notwithstanding all the care we took, before 12 o'clock the most of us
had lost something or other. For my own part I had my Stockings taken
from under my head, and yet I am certain that I was not a Sleep the whole
time. Obariea took charge of Mr. Banks's things, and yet they were stol'n
from her, as she pretended. Tootaha was acquainted with what had hapned,
I believe by Obariea herself, and both him and her made some stir about
it; but this was all meer shew, and ended in nothing. A little time after
this Tootaha came to the Hutt where I and those that were with me lay,
and entertain'd us with a Consort of Musick consisting of 3 Drums, 4
Flutes, and Singing. This lasted about an Hour, and then they retir'd.
The Music and Singing was so much of a piece that I was very glad when it
was over. We stay'd with them till near noon the next day in hopes of
getting some of our things again, and likewise some Hogs; but we were at
last obliged to come away with the one we had saved out of the Fire last
Night, and a promise from Tootaha that he would come to the Ship in a Day
or two with more, and bring with him the things that are lost, a promise
we had no reason to expect he would fulfill. Thus ended our Visit, and we
got to the Fort late in the evening.
Tuesday, 30th. We are now very buisey in preparing our Instruments, etc.,
for the Observations, and Instructing such Gentlemen in the use of them,
as I intend to send to other parts to observe, for fear we should fail
here.
Wednesday, 31st. Late this Evening the Carpenters finished the Long boat.
[June 1769.]
Thursday, June 1st. This day I sent Lieutenant Gore in the Long boat to
York Island* (* Eimeo, westward of, and near to Tahiti.) with Dr.
Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing (a Gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks) to Observe
the Transit of Venus, Mr. Green having furnished them with Instruments
for that purpose. Mr. Banks and some of the Natives of this Island went
along with them.
Friday, 2nd. Very early this morning Lieutenant Hicks, Mr. Clark, Mr.
Pickersgill and Mr. Saunders went away in the Pinnace to the Eastward,
with orders to fix upon some Convenient situation upon this Island, and
there to Observe the Transit of Venus, they being likewise provided with
Instruments for that purpose.
Saturday, 3rd. This day proved as favourable to our purpose as we could
wish. Not a Cloud was to be seen the whole day, and the Air was perfectly
Clear, so that we had every advantage we could desire in observing the
whole of the Passage of the planet Venus over the Sun's Disk. We very
distinctly saw an Atmosphere or Dusky shade round the body of the planet,
which very much disturbed the times of the Contact, particularly the two
internal ones. Dr. Solander observed as well as Mr. Green and myself, and
we differ'd from one another in Observing the times of the Contact much
more than could be expected. Mr. Green's Telescope and mine where of the
same Magnifying power, but that of the Doctor was greater than ours. It
was nearly calm the whole day, and the Thermometer Exposed to the Sun
about the Middle of the day rose to a degree of heat we have not before
met with.
Sunday, 4th. Punished Archd. Wolf with 2 Dozen lashes for Theft, having
broken into one of the Storerooms and stol'n from thence a large quantity
of Spike Nails; some few of them where found upon him. This evening the
Gentlemen that were sent to observe the Transit of Venus, return'd with
success; those that were sent to York Island were well received by the
Natives. That Island appear'd to them not to be very fruitful.
Monday, 5th. Got some of the Bread ashore out of the Bread Room to dry
and Clean. Yesterday being His Majesty's birthday, we kept it to-day and
had several of the Chiefs to dine with us.
Tuesday, 6th. This day and for some days past we have been informd by
several of the Natives that about 10 or 15 months ago Two Ships touched
at this Island and stayed 10 days in a Harbour to the Eastward, called
Ohidea, the Commander's name was Tootteraso,* (* M. de Bougainville, who
laid at Hitiaa from April 6th to April 16th, 1768.)--so at least the
Natives call him--and that one of the Natives, Brother to the Chief of
Ohidea, went away with him. They likewise say these ships brought the
venerial distemper to this Island, where it is now as Common as in any
part of the world, and which the people bear with as little concern as if
they have been accustom'd to it for Ages past. We had not been here many
days before some of our People got this disease, and as no such thing
hapned to any of the Dolphin's people while she was here, that I ever
heard of, I had reason (notwithstanding the improbability of the thing)
to think that we had brought it along with us, which gave me no small
uneasiness, and did all in my power to prevent its progress, but all I
could do was to little purpose, as I was obliged to have the most part of
the Ship's Company ashore every day to work upon the Fort, and a Strong
Guard every Night; and the Women were so very liberal with their
favours--or else Nails, Shirts, etc., were temptations that they could
not withstand, that this distemper very soon spread itself over the
greatest part of the Ship's company, but now I have the satisfaction to
find that the Natives all agree that we did not bring it here.
We have several times seen Iron tools and other Articles with these
people that we suspected came not from the Dolphin, and these they now
say they had from these two Ships.
Wednesday, 7th; Thursday, 8th; Friday, 9th. These three days we have been
employ'd in Careening both sides of the Ship, and paying them with Pitch
and Brimstone. We found her Bottom in good order, and that the worm had
not got into it.
Saturday, 10th. Wind Variable, with very much rain all day and last
night.
Sunday, 11th. Cloudy, with rain last night and this morning; the
remainder of the day fair weather. This day Mr. Banks and I took
Toobouratomita on board the Ship and shew'd him the print containing the
Colours worne by the ships of Diffrent Nations, and very soon made him
understand that we wanted to know which of them was worn by the ships
that were at Ohidea. He at once pitched upon the Spanish Flag and would
by no means admit of any other; this, together with several Articles we
have lately seen amongst these people, such as Jackets, Shirts, etc.,
usually worn by Spanish Seamen, proves beyond doubt that they must have
been Ships of that Nation, and come from some Port on the Coast of South
America.* (* This was of course a mistake, as the ships were French.)
Monday, 12th. Yesterday Complaint was made to me by some of the Natives
that John Thurman and James Nicholson, Seamen, had taken by force from
them several Bows and Arrows and plaited Hair, and the fact being proved
upon them they were this day punished with 2 dozen lashes each.
Tuesday, 13th. Some Showers of rain last night, but fair weather the most
part of the day. Tootaha, whom we have not seen for some time past, paid
us a Visit to-Day. He brought with him a Hog and some Bread Fruit, for
which he was well paid.
Wednesday, 14th. Between 2 and 4 o'clock this morning, one of the Natives
stole out of the Fort an Iron rake, made use of for the Oven. It hapned
to be set up against the Wall, and by that means was Visible from the
outside, and had been seen by them in the evening, as a man had been seen
lurking about the Fort some Hours before the thing was Missed. I was
informed by some others of the Natives that he watch'd an opportunity
when the Centinel's back was turned, he hooked it with a long crooked
stick, and haled it over the Wall. When I came to be informed of this
theft in the Morning I resolved to recover it by some Means or other, and
accordingly went and took possession of all the Canoes of any value I
could meet with, and brought them into the River behind the Fort to the
number of 22, and told the Natives then present (most of them being the
owners of the Canoes) that unless the principal things they had stol'n
from us were restored I would burn them every one: not that I ever
intended to put this in execution, and yet I was very much displeased
with them, as they were daily committing, or attempting to commit, one
theft or other, when at the same time--contrary to the opinion of
everybody, I would not suffer them to be fir'd upon, for this would have
been putting it in the power of the Centinels to have fir'd upon them
upon the most slitest occasions, as I had before experienced. And I have
a great Objection to firing with powder only amongst People who know not
the difference, for by this they would learn to despise fire Arms and
think their own Arms superior, and if ever such an Opinion prevailed they
would certainly attack you, the Event of which might prove as
unfavourable to you as them. About Noon the rake was restored us, when
they wanted to have their Canoes again; but now, as I had them in my
possession, I was resolved to try if they would not redeem them by
restoring what they had stol'n from us before. The Principal things which
we had lost was the Marine Musquet, a pair of Pistols belonging to Mr.
Banks, a Sword belonging to one of the Petty Officers, and a Water Cask,
with some other Articles not worth mentioning. Some said that these
things were not in the Island, others that Tootaha had them, and those of
Tootaha's friends laid the whole to Obariea, and I believe the whole was
between these two persons.
Thursday, 15th. We have been employed for some Days past in overhauling
all the Sea Provisions, and stowing such as we found in a State of decay
to hand, in order to be first expended; but having the people divided
between the Ship and the Shore, this work, as well as refitting the Ship,
goes on but slowly.
Friday, 16th; Saturday, 17th. Variable winds, with Showers of rain and
Cloudy weather.
Sunday, 18th. Variable winds and Clear weather. This Night was observed
the Moon totally Eclipsed.
Monday, 19th. Punished James Tunley with 12 lashes for taking Rum out of
the Cask on the Quarter Deck.
Tuesday, 20th. Got all the Powder aShore to Air, all of which we found in
a bad Condition, and the Gunner informs me that it was very little better
when it came first on board. Last Night Obariea made us a visit, whom we
have not seen for some time. We were told of her coming, and that she
would bring with her some of the Stol'n things, which we gave Credit to
because we know'd several of them were in her possession; but we were
surprised to find this Woman put herself wholy in our power, and not
bring with her one Article of what we had lost. The Excuse she made was
that her Gallant, a man that used to be along with her, did Steal them,
and she had beat him and turned him away, but she was so Sencible of her
own Guilt that she was ready to drop down through fear, and yet she had
resolution Enough to insist upon Sleeping in Mr. Banks's Tent all Night,
and was with difficulty prevailed upon to go to her canoe, altho no one
took the least notice of her. In the morning she brought her Canoe, with
everything she had, to the Gate of the Fort, after which we could not
help admiring her for her Courage and the Confidence she seem'd to place
in us, and thought that we could do no less than to receive her into
favour, and except the Present she had brought us, which consisted of a
Hog, a Dog, some Bread Fruit and Plantains.
We refused to Except of the Dog, as being an Animal we had no use for; at
which she seemed a little surprised, and told us it was very good eating,
and we very soon had an opportunity to find that it was so, for Mr.
Banks, having bought a Basket of Fruit in which was the Thigh of a Dog
ready dressed, of this several of us tasted, and found that it was Meat
not to be despised, and therefore took Obariea's Dog and had him
immediately dressed by some of the Natives in the following manner: They
first made a hole in the Ground about a foot Deep, in which they made a
fire and heated some small Stones. While this was doing the Dog was
strangled and the hair got off by laying him frequently on the fire, and
as clean as if it had been scalded off with hot water. His Intrails was
taken out, and the whole washed Clean, and as soon as the Stones and Hole
was sufficiently heated the fire was put out and part of the Stones were
left in the bottom of the hole. Upon these stones were laid green leafs,
and upon them the Dog, together with the Intrails, these were likewise
covered with leaves, and over them hot stones; and then the hole was
close cover'd with mould. After he had laid here about 4 Hours, the Oven
(for so I must call it) was op'ned, and the dog taken out, whole and well
done, and it was the Opinion of every one who tasted it that they never
eat sweater Meat, therefore we resolved for the future never to dispise
Dog's flesh. It is in this manner that the Natives dress and Bake all
their Victuals that require it--Flesh, fish, and Fruit. I now gave over
all thoughts of recovering any of the things the Natives had stol'n from
us, and therefore intend to give them up their Canoes whenever they apply
for them.
Wednesday, 21st. Employed drying the Powder, or getting on board Wood,
Water, etc. Confined Robert Anderson, Seaman, for refusing to obey the
orders of the Mate when at work in the Hold. This morning a Chief, whose
Name is Oamo, and one we had not seen before, came to the Fort. There
came with him a Boy about 7 Years of Age and a Young Woman of about 18 or
20. At the Time of their coming Obariea and several others were in the
fort. They went out to meet them, having first uncovered their Heads and
Bodies as low as their Waists; and the same thing was done by all those
that were on the outside of the Fort. As we looked upon this as a
Ceremonial respect, and had not seen it paid to any one before, we
thought that this Oamo must be some extraordinary person, and wondered to
see so little notice taken of him after the Ceremony was over. The Young
woman that came along with him could not be prevailed upon to come into
the Fort, and the Boy was Carried upon a Man's back, altho' he was as
able to walk as the Man who carried him. This Lead us to inquire who they
were; and we was informed that the Boy was Heir Apparent to the
Sovereignty of the Island, and the Young Woman was his Sister, and as
such the respect was paid them which was due to no one else except the
Arreedehi, which was not Tootaha, from what we could learn, but some
other person who we had not seen, or like to do, for they say that he is
no Friend of ours, and therefore will not come near us. The Young Boy
above mentioned is son to Oamo by Obariea, but Oamo and Obariea do not at
this time live together as Man and Wife, he not being able to endure with
her troublesome disposition. I mention this because it shows that
seperation in the Marriage state is not unknown to these people.* (* See
note Notes on Tahiti below.)
Thursday, 22nd. This morning I released Robert Anderson from Confinement
at the intercession of the Master and a promise of behaving better for
the future.
Friday, 23rd. This morning Emanuel Parreyra, a Portugue, was Missing, and
I had some reason to think that he was gone with an intent to stay here.
It was not long before I was informed that he was at Apparra with
Tootaha. The Man who gave us this information was one of Tootaha's
Servants. He was Offer'd a Hatchet if he would go to Apparra and bring
him to us. This was perhaps the very thing he came for, for he
immediately set out and return'd with the Man in the Evening. The man
said in his defence that as he was going to the Boat to go on board last
night, he was taken away by force by 3 Men, and upon enquiring farther
into this matter I found it to be so, and that Tootaha wanted to have
kept him, only that he was perswaided to the contrary, or perhaps he
thought that the Hatchet he would get by returning him would do him more
service than the Man.
Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th. Nothing remarkable.
[Tahiti: Expedition round Island.]
Monday, 26th. Very early this morning I set out in the pinnace,
accompanied by Mr. Banks, with an intent to make the Circuit of the
Island in order to Examine and draw a Sketch of the Coast and Harbours
thereof. We took our rout to the Eastward, and this night reached the
Isthmus, which is a low neck of Land running across the Island, which
divides it into two districts or Governments wholly independent of each
other as we was informed. The first thing we saw which struck our
attention in this day's rout was a small Pig that had not been roasted
above a Day or 2 laid upon one of their Altars near to a place where lay
the Body or Bones of a Dead Person. This Pig must have been put their as
an offering to their God, but on what account we know not. The Coast from
Royal Bay trends East by South and East-South-East 10 miles South by East
and South 11 miles to the Isthmus. In the first direction the Shore is
mostly open to the Sea, but in the last it is cover'd by reefs of rocks;
these forms several good Harbours, wherein are safe Anchorage for
Shipping in 16, 18, 20, and 24 fathoms, with other Conveniences. It was
in one of these Harbours the Spanish Ships before mentioned lay; the
Natives shew'd us the place where they Pitched their Tent and the Brook
they water'd at, otherways there was not the least signs of Shipping
having been there.
Tuesday, 27th. Winds Easterly and fine weather. It was late last night
before we reached the Isthmus, and all the Observations I could make this
morning was that it appeared to be a Marshey flatt of about 2 miles in
Extent aCross which the Natives Haul their Canoes partly by land and
partly by water. From the Isthmus the land trends East Southerly near 3
Leagues, to the South-East point of the Great Bay which lies before the
Isthmus. On the west side of this point is a Bay called Ohitepepa, which
is in many respects similar to Royal Bay, and is situated in every bit as
fertile and populous part of the Island. There are other places formed by
the Reefs that lay along the Shore between this and the Isthmus, where
Shipping can lay in perfect security. The Land then trends South-East and
South to the South-East part of the Island, which is near 3 Leagues, and
covered all the way by a Reef of Rocks, but no Harbour. We took up our
Quarters at the East part of the Island, being conducted thither by a
Young Chief we had Often seen on board the Ship, and the next morning
proceeded round the South-East point of the Island, part of which is not
cover'd by any reef, but lies wholy open to the Sea and here the Hills
rise directly from the Shore. At the Southernmost part of the Island the
Shore is again cover'd by a Reef, and there forms a very good Harbour,
and the land about it very fertile. At this place we saw a Goose and a
Turkey left at Royal Bay by the Dolphin; they were in possession of a
Chief who came along with us in the Boat, and remain'd with us the
remainder of the day, and conducted us over the Shoals we here meet with;
and for this piece of service we lent him a Cloak to Sleep in in the
night, but we had not been laid down above 10 minutes before he thought
proper to move off with it, but both Mr. Banks and I pursued him so close
that he was obliged to relinquish his prize, and we saw no more of him.
When we returned to our Lodging we found the House, in which were not
less than 2 or 300 people when we went away, intirely deserted, so that
we had one of the Largest and best houses on the Island wholy to
ourselves; but when they found that we meant them no harm the Chief and
his Wife with some others came and Slept by us the remainder of the
night. This place is situated on the South-West side of Tiarreboo,* (*
Taiarapu.) the South-East district of the Island, and about 5 miles
South-East from the Isthmus. Here is a large, safe, and Commodious
Harbour, inferior to none on the whole Island, and the land about it Rich
in Produce. We found that the people of this district had had little or
no communication with us, yet we was everywhere well received by them. We
found all this part of the Island very fertile and the Natives numerous,
and had a great many large Double Canoes built and Ornamented uniformly.
They were all halled ashore, and appeared to be going to decay for want
of use. Their Mories or Burial places stood generally upon these points
of land that projected into the Sea, and were both better built and
Ornamented than those about Royal Bay--Tootaha's excepted. In general
this district appear'd to be in a more flourishing state than the other,
although it is not above one fourth part as big and cannot contain
nothing near the Number of inhabitants.