REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TOWARDS TERRA DEL FUEGO.
[December 1768. Rio to Strait Le Maire.]
THURSDAY, December 8th. Fore and Middle parts Moderate breezes and
Cloudy; remainder, little wind and Clear weather. At 3 p.m. the Boat
returned from the Island; hoisted her in and made Sail at 6. The Sugar
Loaf at the west Entrance of Rio de Janeiro bore North 1/2 East, distance
7 leagues; it lies from the City of Rio de Janeiro, from which I take my
Departure, South-West 4 miles. Wind East-North-East, North-East, North by
East; course South 7 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 85 miles; latitude
24 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 42 degrees 29 minutes West.
Friday, 9th. Genteel light breezes and Clear weather. At 3 a.m. the Fore
top-gallant Mast broke short by the Cap; the Carpenter employed making
another. Wind North, North-East, South-South-West; course South 22
degrees East; distance 32 miles; latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 16 minutes West.
Saturday, 10th. Moderate breezes with some flying showers of Rain the
first part. Wind southerly; course, South-East 1/2 East; distance 75
miles; latitude 25 degrees 34 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 12
minutes West.
Sunday, 11th. Little wind and Clear weather the Most part of this day.
Serv'd Slops* (* Slops are materials for making clothes.) to the People.
Wind southerly; course South 20 degrees East; distance 9 miles; latitude
25 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 8 minutes West.
Monday, 12th. First part, light Airs; remainder, Genteel breezes and
Clear weather. Found the variation of the Compass by the Evening
Amplitude and an Azimuth in the Morning to be 8 degrees 30 minutes East,
and the Observed Latitude at Noon to be short of that given by the Log 10
Miles. Exercised the People at Great Guns and Small Arms. Wind variable;
course South-South-West; distance 34 miles; latitude 26 degrees 14
minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 23 minutes West.
Tuesday, 13th. First part Gentle breezes and Clear, remainder a Steady
Gale. The weather a little hazey. Variation 8 degrees 23 minutes East.
Wind North-East and North-North-East; course South 19 degrees 40 minutes
West; distance 113 miles; latitude 28 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude
42 degrees 6 minutes West.
Wednesday, 14th. First and latter parts, fresh breezes and Cloudy;
middle, little wind, with Thunder, Lightning and Rain. The Caulkers
employed Caulking the Ship's Decks. Wind, North-West, West, South by
West; course South 16 degrees East; distance 87 miles; latitude 29
degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 55 minutes West.
Thursday, 15th. The first part a fresh Gale and dark Cloudy weather;
Remainder, little wind and clear; a large swell from South-West. Wind
South-West by South, South, East-South-East; course South 14 degrees 15
minutes East; distance 45 miles; latitude 30 degrees 8 minutes South,
longitude 41 degrees 39 minutes West.
Friday, 16th. Genteel breezes and Clear weather. Variation 9 degrees 36
minutes East. Wind East-North-East, North-West, North-East; course South
32 degrees West: distance 86 miles; latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 32 minutes West.
Saturday, 17th. Hazey with frequent Showers of Rain all the Fore and
Middle part; latter, Clear weather with a Gentle breeze of wind. Wind,
variable from North-West, South-West, to South-South-East; course South
14 degrees West; distance 56 miles; latitude 32 degrees 15 minutes South,
longitude 42 degrees 48 minutes West.
Sunday, 18th. First part, light winds; remainder, fresh breezes and Clear
weather. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. Wind, South-East to
North-East; course South 51 West; distance 43 miles; latitude 32 degrees
42 minutes South, longitude 43 degrees 27 minutes West.
Monday, 19th. A steady fresh breeze and fair weather. At half-past 5 p.m.
Longitude in per Observation of the sun and moon 43 degrees 38 minutes
West from Greenwich. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. The Observed
Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 7 Miles. Wind northerly; course
South-West; distance 116 miles; latitude 34 degrees 4 minutes South,
longitude 45 degrees 6 minutes West.
Tuesday, 20th. A fresh breeze of Wind and hazey. Variation 13 degrees 44
minutes East. Observed Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 11 miles.
Wind north; course South-West 1/4 South; distance 160 miles; latitude 36
degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 47 degrees 14 minutes West.
Wednesday, 21st. Wind and weather Variable. Saw several black sheer
Waters. Sounded twice this 24 Hours but found no ground with 90 fathoms.
The Observed Latitude again ahead of the Log 16 miles. Wind variable;
course South 42 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 90 miles; latitude 37
degrees 8 minutes South, longitude 48 degrees 30 minutes West.
Thursday, 22nd. Little wind the most part of this day. Variation 15
degrees 30 minutes East. Bent a New Suit of Sails. Wind southerly; course
West; distance 40 miles; latitude 37 degrees 8 minutes South, longitude
49 degrees 1 minute West.
Friday, 23rd. Light Airs and Clear weather. Saw some Turtle upon the
Water but could not catch any. Sounded no ground with 200 fathoms.
Variation 15 degrees 40 minutes East. Wind southerly; course North 48
degrees West; distance 33 miles; latitude 36 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 49 degrees 32 minutes West.
Saturday, 24th. First part Calm; remainder a Genteel breeze and fine
Clear weather. This night had 2 Sets of Observations of the Moon and the
Star Aldebaran, which gave the Longitude
49 degrees 54 minutes 15 seconds West; the first sett gave 49 degrees 55
minutes 15 seconds, and the Second 49 degrees 53 minutes 15 seconds. Wind
calm, north-easterly; course South 50 degrees West; distance 39 miles;
latitude 37 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 50 degrees 32 minutes
West.
Sunday, 25th. Fresh breezes and fine Clear weather. Wind North-East by
North to North; course South 50 degrees West; distance 116 miles;
latitude 38 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude 52 degrees 5 minutes
West.
Monday, 26th. A Fresh breeze of Wind and Cloudy weather; passed by some
Rock Weed. At noon the Observed latitude 26 Miles to the Southward of the
Log, which I believe is chiefly owing to her being Generally steer'd to
the Southward of her Course. Yesterday being Christmas Day the people
were none of the Soberest. Wind North; course South-West; distance 158
miles; latitude 40 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 54 degrees 30
minutes West.
Tuesday, 27th. Fresh breezes and Hazey with Squalls which Obliged us
during the Night to take in the small Sails and 2 reefs in the Topsails
which were let out in the Morning. Wind northerly; course South 50
degrees West; distance 123 miles; latitude 41 degrees 38 minutes South,
longitude 56 degrees 15 minutes West.
Wednesday, 28th. First part Strong Gales and Cloudy, which Obliged us to
get down Top-Gallant Yards. At 8 p.m. it blew a Storm of Wind with Rain
which brought us under our Mainsail with her Head to the Westward.
Sounded 50 fathoms, fine brown Sand; at midnight had 40 fathoms, the same
bottom. At 4 a.m. had 46 fathoms Coral Rock. The weather being more
Moderate, made Sail under the Courses and Set the Topsails with 2 Reefs
in. Wind South-East to South; latitude 40 degrees 49 minutes South,
longitude 58 degrees 29 minutes West.
Thursday, 29th. First part moderate breezes and Cloudy; remainder fresh
breezes and Clear. P.M. loosed all the Reefs out, and got Topgallant
Yards a Cross. Variation per Azimuth 16 degrees 12 minutes, per Amplitude
16 degrees 32 minutes; Mean of the Two 16 degrees 22 minutes East.
Between 9 and 10 a.m. took 7 sets of Observations between the sun and
moon to find the Longitude of the Ship. Each set Consists of three
Observations; the Mean of the whole gave 59 degrees 18 minutes 34 seconds
West of Greenwich. The result of each set was as follows: viz., 1st set,
59 degrees 8 minutes; Second, 59 degrees 21 minutes; Third, 59 degrees 34
minutes; Fourth, 59 degrees 17 minutes; Fifth, 59 degrees 11 minutes 45
seconds; Sixth, 59 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds; and the Seventh, 59
degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds. The greatest differance between any
two--viz., the first and third--is but 26 minutes, and the mean of these
two differ from the mean of the whole only 2 minutes 26 seconds. This
shews to what degree of accuracy these observations can be made even by
Different Persons, for four of these were made and computed by Mr. Green
and the rest by myself. The Longitude given by the Ship, reckoning from
the last Observation 5 Days ago, differs only 8 Miles from the
Observation, which shews that we have not been in any Currents. Soundings
from 40 to 47. Wind North-Easterly; course South 46 degrees 30 minutes
West; distance 81 miles; latitude 41 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude
59 degrees 37 minutes West.
Friday, 30th. Little wind, and sometimes Calm; the first part Clear
weather, remainder Foggy and Hazey. Soundings from 44 to 49 fathoms; Grey
sandy Bottom. Caught both this Morning and last Night a great Number of
insects. Some were upon the Wing, but the greater part were upon the
water, and many of these alive and of such sort as cannot fly far; and
yet at this Time we could not be less than 30 Leagues from Land. Wind
variable; course South 30 degrees West; distance 54 miles; latitude 42
degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 60 degrees 15 minutes West.
Saturday, 31st. Cloudy weather, with some Lightning and a few showers of
rain. Variation 18 degrees 36 minutes East. Soundings from 46 to 50
fathoms; fine dark sand. Wind South-Easterly; course South 18 degrees
West; distance 43 miles; latitude 43 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude
60 degrees 26 minutes West.
[January 1769.]
Sunday, January 1st, 1769. First and Latter part, fresh breezes and Clear
weather; in the Middle, light Airs and Calm. At Noon, longitude in per 4
Sets of Observations between the sun and moon 61 degrees 8 minutes 28
seconds west. The Difference between the least and Greatest of these sets
was 8 minutes, and the mean of 2 differs from the Mean of the whole but
32 seconds. The Longitude by account carried on from the last
Observations exactly agree with these Observations. Saw a great number of
small Whales about the Ship. Wind South to West-South-West; course South
36 degrees West; distance 39 miles; latitude 43 degrees 35 minutes South;
longitude 61 degrees 8 minutes 28 seconds West.
Monday, January 2nd. The first part of this day a Genteel gale and Clear
weather; middle, Squally, with Lightning and rain, and some showers of
Large Hail Stones; towards Noon a Steady fresh breeze and Clear weather.
At noon longitude in by 3 sets of Observations between the sun and moon
61 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds, which is 43 seconds to the Eastward of
yesterday's Observations. The Ship by the Log has made 4 minutes East.
Wind Westerly; course South 2 degrees East; distance 92 miles; latitude
45 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds
West.
Tuesday, 3rd. Fresh gales and clear weather; under Single Reef Topsails.
P.M. Saw some Whales and Porpoises and small red Crawfish, some of which
we Caught. At Noon saw several Birds of a light Grey Colour, like
Pidgeons, but smaller; these are of the Mother Carey's kind. Longitude
per Observation 61 degrees 29 minutes 45 seconds, which is 22 minutes to
the westward of Yesterday, but the ship hath made 41 minutes,
Consequently there is an Error of 19 minutes, which is not to be supposed
to be in the Log in one Day's run; but, be it which way it will, it is
not great. Wind West, Southerly; course South 11 degrees; distance 122
miles; latitude 47 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 29
minutes 45 seconds West.
Wednesday, 4th. First part, genteel breeze and Clear; latter, fresh
gales, with heavy squalls of wind and rain, which brought us under our
courses and main topsails close reefed. Soon after noon saw the
appearance of Land to the Eastward, and being in the Latitude of Peypes
Island, as it is lay'd down in some Charts, imagined it might be it.* (*
Pepys' Island, placed on charts, from a report by Captain Cowley in 1683,
about 230 miles north of Falkland Islands, and long imagined to exist. It
was eventually recognised, after the discovery of Cowley's manuscript
Journal, that Cowley had sighted the Falklands.) Bore down to be Certain,
and at 1/2 past 2 p.m. discovered our Mistake, and hauld the Wind again.
At 6 sounded, and had 72 fathoms black sand and mud. Variation 19 degrees
45 minutes East. Wind West-North-West to South-West by South; course
South 30 degrees East; distance 76 miles; latitude 48 degrees 28 minutes
South, longitude 60 degrees 51 minutes West.
[Nearing Terra del Fuego.]
Thursday, 5th. Fore part, fresh Gales and Clear; Middle, light Airs;
remainder, fresh Gales and a little hazey. P.M. found the Variation to be
20 degrees 4 minutes East; Soundings 75 and 73 fathoms. A great Number of
Water Fowl about the Ship. Wind South-West, North-East, North-North-East;
course South 28 degrees West; distance 92 miles; latitude 49 degrees 49
minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 67 minutes West.
Friday, 6th. Fresh gales, the Air very Sharp and Cold; frequent showers
of rain and Squalls. Soundings 75 fathoms. Saw some Penguins. Gave to
each of the People a Fearnought Jacket and a pair of Trowsers, after
which I never heard one Man Complain of Cold, not but that the weather
was cold enough. Wind West, Southerly; course South 8 degrees 45 minutes
West; distance 92 miles; latitude 51 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude
62 degrees 19 minutes West.
Saturday, 7th. First part, Strong Gales, with excessive hard Squals, with
rain. At 9 p.m. wore and brought too, her head to the Westward under the
Mainsail, and Reef'd the Foresail for the first time. The Storm continued
with a little intermission until a little towards Noon, when it abated,
so we could set the Topsails close Reefed. Saw many Penguins and some
Seals. Wind southerly: course South 62 degrees East; distance 14 miles;
latitude 51 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 59 minutes
West.
Sunday, 8th. Wind and weather both Variable, but for the most part little
wind. P.M. loosed the Reef out of the Foresail and 2 Reefs out of Each
Topsail. A.M. got Top gallant Yards aCross and loosed all the Reefs out.
Soundings from 80 to 75 fathoms. Wind South, South-West, West,
North-West; course North 72 degrees West; distance 33 miles; latitude 51
degrees 16 minutes South; longitude 62 degrees 50 minutes West.
Monday, 9th. First and Latter parts, a moderate breeze and Clear weather;
Middle, squally with rain. P.M. found the Variation by several azimuths
to be 22 degrees 24 minutes East. Saw a great Number of Penguins and
Seals.
Tuesday, 10th. Moderate breezes and fine clear weather. At 2 p.m. Sounded
86 fathoms; black sand and Small stones. Variation 21 degrees 57 minutes
East. At 1/2 past 10 Tackt having Stood south 12 Leagues. After standing
to the Westward 14 Miles, sounded, and had 80 fathoms black grey sand; 3
Leagues farther 76, coarse black sand; Tack'd, and at noon had 70 fathoms
black gravel and Small Stones of different Colours. Saw several flights
of black Sheerwaters. Wind West-South-West, South-West; course South 18
degrees West; distance 38 miles; latitude 52 degrees 54 minutes South,
longitude 63 degrees 10 minutes West.
Wednesday, 11th. A Steady Genteel breeze and clear weather. P.M. after
standing 13 Leagues South-South-West Sounded 64 fathoms Gravel and small
Stones; Standing South-West by South 11 leagues farther, had 46 fathoms,
the same sort of bottom. At 8 a.m. saw the land of Terra del Fuego,
extending from the west to the South-East by South, distance off shore
between 3 and 4 Leagues; sounded and had 35 fathoms small, soft, Slate
Stones. Variation 23 degrees 30 minutes East. In ranging along shore to
the South-East at the distance of 2 or 3 leagues, had 27 and 26 fathoms
muddy bottom. Saw some of the natives, who made a Smook in several
places, which must have been done as a Signal to us as they did not
continue it after we passed. By our Longitude we ought not to have been
so far to the Westward as Statenland, as it is laid down in the Charts;
but it appeared from Subsequent Observations that the Ship had got near a
Degree of Longitude to the Westward of the Log, which is 35 Miles in
these Latitudes. Probably this in part may be owing to a Small Current
setting to the Westward, occasioned by the Westerly Current which comes
round Cape Horn and through Strait La Maire, and the inDraught of the
Streights of Magellan. Wind westerly; course South 30 degrees West;
distance, 100 miles; latitude 54 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 64
degrees 35 minutes West per log.
Thursday, 12th. First part, moderate breezes and Cloudy; remainder
sometimes a fresh breeze, sometimes Calm, Hazey weather with rain. At 5
the wind coming to the Northward obliged us to Tack and Stood
North-Westward, being then about 5 Miles from the Shore, and had 23
fathoms, sandy Bottom. At Midnight Tackt and Stood to the Eastward. At
Noon the Land over the Entrance of Straits La Maire, East-North-East,
distance, 7 leagues; Soundings from 28 to 38 fathoms. Wind North,
North-North-East, variable, West-South-West; latitude 54 degrees 34
minutes South per observation.
Friday, 13th. The greatest part of this day little wind and Cloudy. At 8
p.m., Cape St. Diego, at the west entrance of Straits La Maire, East,
distance about 5 leagues. Keept under an easey Sail until daylight, at
which time we were abreast of Cape St. Diego, and then put into the
Straits, but the Tide soon turned against us and obliged us to haul under
the Cape again and wait until 9 a.m. when it shifted in our favour. Put
into the Straits again with a Moderate breeze at South-West, which soon
grew Boisterous with very heavy Squalls, with rain and hail, and obliged
us to Close reef our Topsails. Wind North-East by East, West-South-West,
South-West; latitude 54 degrees 39 minutes South; at noon, Cape St. Diego
North 2 leagues.
[In Strait of Le Maire.]
Saturday, 14th. First part Strong Gales, and very heavy squalls with Hail
and Rain; remainder more moderate but unsettled, sometimes a fresh breeze
and Squally, and sometimes little wind. Kept plying in the Straits until
1/2 past 4 p.m., at which time the Tide had made strong against us, and
the wind not abating, bore away, intending to have hauled under Cape St.
Diego, but was prevented by the force of the Tide, which carried us past
that Cape with surprising rapidity, at the same time caused a very great
sea. At 6, the weather being Clear, took 9, or 3 sets of, Observations of
the sun and moon in order to find the Longitude of the place, and as they
perhaps are the first Observations of this kind that were ever made so
near to the Extremity of South America, I have inserted them below just
as they were taken, that everybody may judge for themselves.
COLUMN 1: NAME OF SET.
COLUMN 2: TIME BY THE WATCH IN HOURS, MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 3: APPARENT TIME COMPUTED FROM IN HOURS, MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 4: OBSERVED DISTANCE. SUN AND MOON'S NEAREST LIMB IN DEGREES,
MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 5: OBSERVED ALTITUDE. SUN'S LOWER LIMB IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND
SECONDS.
COLUMN 6: OBSERVED ALTITUDE. MOON'S UPPER LIMB IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND
SECONDS.
COLUMN 7: CORRECT ALTITUDE. SUN'S CENTER IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND SECONDS.
COLUMN 8: CORRECT ALTITUDE. MOON'S CENTER IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND
SECONDS.
COLUMN 9: THE LONGITUDE RESULTING FROM BOTH SETS OF OBSERVATIONS IN
DEGREES, MINUTES AND SECONDS.
-- : 8 27 15 : -- : 71 26 0 : 15 36 0 : 24 13 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 30 30 : -- : 71 28 0 : 15 11 0 : 24 8 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 32 15 : -- : 71 29 0 : 14 56 0 : 23 57 0 : -- : -- : --.
------------------------------------------------
-- : 25 30 00 : -- : - 83 0 : 45 43 0 : 72 18 0 : -- : -- : --.
------------------------------------------------
1st set : 8 30 0 : 6 12 53 : 71 27 40 : 15 14 20 : 24 6 0 : 15 22 39 : 23
43 0 : 66 7 45.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
-- : 8 33 50 : -- : 71 30 0 : 14 43 0 : 23 38 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 35 39 : -- : - 31 0 : 14 25 0 : 23 42 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 37 46 : -- : - 30 30 : 14 10 0 : 23 32 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
-- : 8 107 15 : -- : - 91 30 : 43 18 0 : 23 112 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
2nd set : 8 35 45 : 6 18 41 : 71 30 30 : 14 26 0 : 23 37 20 : 14 34 00 :
23 14 0 : 66 19 45.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------
-- : 8 39 10 : -- : 71 31 30 : 13 56 0 : 23 26 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 41 20 : -- : - 32 00 : 13 40 0 : 23 20 0 : -- : -- : --.
-- : 8 43 49 : -- : - 33 00 : 13 18 0 : 23 6 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
-- : 8 124 19 : -- : - 96 30 : - 114 0 : - 52 0 : -- : -- : --.
-------------------------------------------------
3rd set : 8 41 26 : 6 24 26 : 71 32 10 : 13 38 0 : 23 17 20 : 13 46 0 :
22 55 0 : 66 0 45.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------
N.B. The mean of the three sets is 66 degrees 9 minutes 25 seconds, and
the mean of Mr. Green's Computations from the same Observations was 66
degrees 14 minutes 0 seconds, and the mean of his computations and mine
will be 66 degrees 11 minutes 32 seconds, and therefore the Longitude of
Cape St. Diego or the North-West entrance of Strait Le Maire will be 66
degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds West from Greenwich, and its Latitude 54
degrees 39 minutes South.* (* Modern determination is 54 degrees 40
minutes South, 65 degrees 8 minutes West.)
Note: The distance of the sun and moon was taken by Mr. Green alone, my
Quadrant being out of Order.
Cape St. Diego bore at this time South by East about 4 Leagues Distant.
At 1/2 past 7 Tackt and Stood to the South-East, Cape St. Diego bearing
South by East, distance 5 Leagues. At 1 a.m., Squally, wore Ship, Staten
Land extending from North to East. At 4, Moderate Weather, loosed a Reef
out of each Topsail, the Cape of Good Success West by South, and Cape St.
Diego North-North-West, being now in the Strait, but the Tide turning
against us soon carried us out. The Violence of the Tide of Ebb rose such
a Sea off Cape St. Diego, that it looked as if it was breaking Violently
on the ledge of Rocks, and would be taken for such by any who know'd not
the true cause. When the Ship was in this Torrent she frequently Pitched
her Bowsprit in the Water. By Noon we got under the Land between Cape St.
Diego and Cape St. Vincent, where I thought to have Anchored, but found
the Bottom every where hard and Rocky; the Depth of Water from 30 to 12
fathoms. Sent the Master to Examine a small Cove which appeared to our
View a little to the Eastward of Cape St. Vincent. Wind South-South-West
and South-West by South.
Sunday, 15th. Moderate breezes at South and South-East, and cloudy
weather, the greater part of this day. At 2 p.m. the Master return'd with
an account that there was Anchorage in 4 fathoms Water and a good bottom
close to the Eastward of the first black bluff point which is on the East
side of Cape St. Vincent, at the very Entrance of the Cove we saw from
the Ship (which I named Vincent Bay). Before this Anchoring ground lay
several Rocky Ledges covered with Sea Weed: on these Ledges I was
informed was not less than 8 or 9 fathoms, but in standing in with the
Ship the first we came upon had only 4 fathoms upon it. I therefore
thought that Anchoring here would be attended with some Risk, and that it
would be better to Endeavour to find some Port in the Strait, and there
Compleat our Wood and Water. However, I sent an Officer with a Boat on
shore to attend to Mr. Banks and people who was very desirous of being on
shore at any rate, while I keept plying as near the shore as possible
with the Ship. At 9 they return'd on board bringing with them several
Plants, Flowers, etc., most of them unknown in Europe, and in that Alone
consisted their whole Value; they saw none of the Natives, but meet with
several of their old Hutts. Hoisted the Boat in and made Sail into the
Straits and at 3 a.m. Anchord in 12 1/2 fathoms Water (the bottom Coral
rocks) before a small Cove which we took for Port Maurice, and near 1/2 a
Mile from the shore Cape St. Diego South-South-West, and Cape St.
Bartholomew (which is the south point of Staten Land) East-South-East.
Port Maurice appeared to afford so little Shelter for Shipping that I did
not think it worth while to hoist a Boat out to Examine it; we saw here 2
of the Natives come down to the Shore, who stay'd sometime, then retir'd
into the Woods againe. At 10 o'Clock got under Sail, Wind at South-East,
and plyed to Windward.
[In Success Bay.]
Monday, 16th. A Fresh breeze of Wind at South and South-West, with
frequent showers of Rain and Snow. At 2 p.m. Anchored in the Bay of
Success in 9 fathoms, the bottom Owse and sand.* (* The Endeavour was
three days and a half in getting through the Strait of Le Maire, as far
as Success Bay. It is a difficult passage for a sailing vessel even in
the present day, as the tides are strong and winds generally contrary,
but experience has enabled good directions to be given as to the best way
to pass the Strait. Cook himself gives capital advice farther on.) The
south point of the Bay bore South-East and the north point
East-North-East. This Bay I shall describe when I come to speake of the
rest of the Coast. Hoisted out the Boats and moor'd with the Stream
Anchor. While this was doing I went ashore accompanyed by Mr. Banks and
Dr. Solander to look for a Watering place and to speak with the Natives,
who were assembled on the Beach at the Head of the Bay to the Number of
30 or 40. They were so far from being afraid or surprised at our coming
amongst them that three of them came on board without the least
hesitation. They are something above the Middle size, of a Dark Copper
Colour with long black hair; they paint their Bodies in Streakes, mostly
Red and Black. Their Cloathing consists wholy in a Guanacoe Skin or that
of a Seal, in the same form as it came from the Animal's back.
The Women Wear a Piece of Skin over their Privy Parts, but the Men
observe no such decency. Their Hutts are made like a behive, and open on
one side where they have their fires; they are made of small Sticks and
covered with branches of trees, long Grass, etc., in such a manner that
they are neither Proof against Wind, Hail, rain or Snow, a sufficient
proof that these People must be a very hardy race. They live chiefly on
shell fish, such as Muscels, which they gather from off the Rocks along
the Sea Shore, and this seems to be the Work of the Women. Their Arms are
Bows and Arrows neatly made; their Arrows are bearded, some with glass
and others with fine flint; several Pieces of the former we saw amongst
them with other European things, such as rings, Buttons, Cloth, Canvas,
etc., which I think proves that they must sometimes travel to the
Northward, as we know of no Ship that hath been in these parts for many
Years; besides, they were not at all surprised at our Fire Arms; on the
Contrary, they seemed to know the use of them, by making signs to us to
fire at Seals or Birds that might come in the way. They have no Boats
that we saw or anything to go upon the Water with; their number doth not
Exceed 50 or 60 young and old, and there are fewer Women than Men. They
are Extreamly fond of any Red thing, and seemed to set more Value on
Beads than anything we could give them; in this Consists their whole
Pride, few, either Men or Women, are without a Necklace or String of
Beads made of Small Shells or bones about their Necks. They would not
taste any strong Liquor, neither did they seem fond of our Provisions. We
could not discover that they had any Head or Chief or Form of Government,
neither have they any useful or necessary Utensil except it be a Bag or
Basket to gather their Muscels into. In a word they are perhaps as
Miserable a sett of People as are this day upon Earth.* (* Cook's
description of the natives of Tierra del Fuego is good to the present
day, except that those who live farther westward are still more wretched.
Those of the main island, in which the Bay of Good Success lies, are able
to kill guanaco, and enjoy a better climate. They, as Cook observed,
never go on the water, whereas those westward practically live in
canoes.) Having found a convenient place on the south side of the Bay to
Wood and Water at, we set about that Work in the Morning, and Mr. Banks
with a Party went into the Country to gather Plants, etc.
Tuesday, 17th. Fresh Gales at South-South-West and West-South-West with
rain and Snow, and, of Course, very cold weather; notwithstanding we kept
geting on board Wood and Water, and finished the Survey of the Bay. Mr.
Banks and his Party not returning this Evening as I expected, gave me
great uneasiness, as they were not prepared for Staying out the Night.
However, about Noon they returned in no very Comfortable Condition, and
what was still worse 2 blacks, servants to Mr. Banks, had perished in the
Night with Cold. Great part of the day they landed was spent before they
got through the Woods, after which they advanced so far into the Country
that they were so far from being able to return that night, and with much
difficulty they got to a place of Tolerable Shelter where they could make
a fire: these 2 men being Intrusted with great part of the Liquor (that
was for the whole party) had made too free with it, and Stupified
themselves to that degree that they either could or would not Travel, but
laid themselves down in a place where there was not the least thing to
Shelter them from the inclemency of the night. This was about 1/4 of a
Mile from where the rest took up their Quarters, and notwithstanding
their repeated Endeavours, they could not get them to move one Step
farther, and the bad travelling made it impossible for any one to Carry
them, so that they were Obliged to leave them, and the next morning they
were both found dead.
Wednesday, 18th. All the Middle and Latter parts of this day it blow'd
very strong from the South-South-West and South-West, attended with Snow,
Hail and Rain, and brought such a Sea into the Bay, which rose the Surf
to such a Height that no Boat could land. The same Stormy weather and
Surf continued all
Thursday, 19th. All this time the Ship road very easy with her Broad side
to the swell. The great Surf that always will be upon the Shore when the
wind blows hard from the Southward makes Wooding and Watering tedious,
notwithstanding there are great plenty of both close to high water Mark.
Friday, 20th. Moderate gales and Cloudy with frequent Showers of rain all
this day. This Evening the Surf abated, and at 2 a.m. sent the People on
shore to Wood and Water and cut Brooms, all of which we Completed this
day. In this Service we lost our small Kedge Anchor, it having been laid
off the Watering Place to ride the Long-boat by, and the Gale had broke
away the Hawser and Buoy rope, and perhaps buried the Anchor in the Sand,
for notwithstanding our utmost Endeavours we were not able to Hook it.
Took up the Stream Anchor and made ready for Sailing.
[Sailed from Success Bay.]
Saturday, 21st. Wind from South-South-West to South-West; moderate
breezes the first part; latter, fresh Gales with Showers of Rain. P.M.
hoisted in the Boats, and made ready for Sailing; at 2 a.m. weighed and
made Sail out of the Bay. At 1/2 past 4 the Cape of good Success bore
West, and Cape Bartholomew East. Variation per Azimuth, 24 degrees 9
minutes East; at Noon the Cape of good Success bore North 36 degrees
West; distance, 11 leagues.
Sunday, 22nd. Wind between the South and the West first and Latter part,
fresh Gales and Squally, with rain; the Middle, little wind and rain.
A.M. found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 20 degrees 4 minutes
East. Unbent the Cables and Stowed the Anchors. At Noon, Latitude
observed 56 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude, made from the Cape of
Good Success, 42 minutes East.
Monday, 23rd. Winds variable from South-East round by the South-West to
North-West. First part, a fresh breeze and Squally, the remainder
moderate breezes and sometimes Calm and clear weather, which is more than
we have had for several days past. At 4 a.m. saw the Land in the
South-West Quarter, and a small Island bearing West; from this Time until
9 it was Calm, at which time the Ship drove very fast to the North-East
by North. At 9 Sprung up a light breeze at North, loos'd all the Reefs
out, and set the Steering sails. The Cape of good Success bore North-East
by North; Staten land seen from the Deck bearing North-East; the Sugar
Loaf on Terra Del Fuego North-North-East, and is the same Hill as is seen
from the North-East side of the Land; it appears to stand but a little
way in Land from the Shore; and the Mainland and Islands on the Coast
extending from the Cape of good Success to the South by West. The Country
Mountainous, of an indifferent height; the Tops were covered with Snow,
which had lately fell, as it did not lay long. There appeared to be
several Bays and inlets and Islands laying along the Coast; the 3rd view
in the Chart exhibits the appearance of this Coast where g is new Island,
c the Sugar Loaf, and h the Cape of good Success. At noon the West End of
New Island bore North-West by West, 5 leagues. Latitude observed 55
degrees 25 minutes South, this Island I named New Island because it is
not laid down in any Chart.* (* This island is still so called in the
charts.)
Tuesday, 24th. The fore and Middle parts of these 24 Hours Moderate Gales
and Cloudy with some Showers of Rain; the Latter, fresh gales with flying
Showers. At 7 p.m. New Island bore North-West by North, and a small
Island laying to the Westward of it bore West by North. Variation per
Several Azimuths 21 degrees 0 minutes East, which is much less than we
have yet found it upon this Coast; yet I am satisfied with the Goodness
of the Observations. At 1/2 past 1 a.m. the Wind Shifted from
South-South-West to East-South-East. Tackt and stood South-West; at 6 Saw
the Land to the Westward making like several Islands. At 8 two Small
Islands laying off a low Point of Land bore West by South, distant 3
Leagues, and the small Island we saw last night bore North-North-West.
This I take to be the Island of Evouts, it is about one League in
Circuit, and of a Moderate height and lies 4 Leagues from the Main. Near
the South Point of it are some Peaked rocks pretty high above Water; the
wind coming to the Southward we did but just weather this Island; in
passing it, sounded and had 40 fathoms Water, sand, and broken Shells. At
Noon it bore North-East distance one League, and the low point of land
before mentioned South 17 degrees West distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Tackt and
Stood to the South-East, wind at South-South-West. From this low Point
the land trends to the North-West, about 4 Leagues, where it ends in a
low point round which to the Westward appears to be a Deep Bay, unless
this land should prove to be an Island or Islands, which is most likely.
It rises into high Craggy hills, and the Shore seems to form several
Bays; if so, they must afford good Shelter for Shipping against Southerly
and Westerly winds.
[Off Cape Horn.]
Wednesday, 25th. Winds from the South to the West-North-West, the first
part fresh Gales and Squally with some Rain; Middle, little wind with
Hail and Rain; latter, fresh Gales and Hazey, with Showers of Rain. At 8
p.m. the Island of Evouts North-West, distant 3 or 4 miles. Variation,
per morning Amplitude 21 degrees 16 minutes East. At 8 a.m. the
Southermost low point of land seen Yesterday Bore South 74 degrees West,
and a remarkable Peaked Hill to the Southward of it South-West; and soon
after we discovered that the land which we took Yesterday to be a part of
the Main or an Island, was three Islands, which I take to be Hermites. At
Noon the South Point of the Southermost Island bore North-West by West
distant 3 leagues, having then 58 fathoms Peble Stones. This Point is
pretty high and consists of Peaked Craggy rocks, and not far from it lay
several others high above Water. It lies in the Latitude of 55 degrees 53
minutes South and South-West 26 Leagues from Straits La Mair, and by some
on board thought to be Cape Horn; but I was of another Opinion, and with
good reason, because we saw land to the Southward of it about 3 or 4
leagues. It appeared not unlike an Island with a very high round Hummock
upon it; this I believe to be Cape Horn, for after we had stood about 3
Leagues the weather cleared up for about a quarter of an hour, which gave
us a sight of the land bearing West-South-West, but we could see no land
to the southward or Westward of it, and therefore conclude that it must
be the Cape, but whether it be an Island of itself, a part of the
Southermost of Hermits Islands, or a part of Terra del Fuego, I am not
able to determine. However, this is of very little Consequence to
Navigation: I only wished to be Certain whether or no it was the
Southermost Land on or near to Terra del Fuego; but the thick foggy
weather and the westerly winds which Carried us from the land prevented
me from satisfying my Curiosity in this point, but from its Latitude and
the reasons before given I think it must, and if so it must be Cape Horn,
and lies in the latitude of 55 degrees 53 minutes South and Longitude 68
degrees 13 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich,* (* No doubt this
was Cape Horn, but it lies in 55 degrees 58 minutes South, 67 degrees 16
minutes West.) being the Mean result of Several Observations of the sun
and moon made the day after we left the land, and which agreed with those
made at Straits Le Mair, allowing for the distance between one place and
the other, which I found means very accurately to determine. As we are
now about taking our departure from the Land, which we are not likely to
fall in with again, I shall give a more full Description of such parts of
the Coasts of Terra del Fuego as hath fallen under my inspection.
We fell in with this Coast 21 Leagues to the Westward of Straits Le Mair,
and ranged the coast from thence to the Strait within 2 or 3 Leagues of
the Land, and had soundings all the way from 40 to 20 fathoms, a Gravelly
and Sandy Bottom. The land near the Shore is in general low but hilly,
the face of the Country appears Green and Woody, but in land are Craggy
Mountains; they appeared to be of no great height, nor were they Covered
with Snow. The most remarkable land on Terra Del Fuego is a high Mountain
in form of a Sugar Loaf, situated not far from the sea on the South-West
side of the Land, and 3 hills called the 3 Brothers. They lay near the
Shore and nine Miles to the Westward of Cape St. Diego, which is a low
point that forms the North-West Entrance of Strait Le Mair, and are
Contiguous to Each other. The Sugar Loaf lies from these Hills
South-South-West, and when it was in this situation the Appearances of
the Land is represented in the first View in the Chart, but it must be
observed that from this point of View the Three Brothers appear far more
Conspicuous than from any other; these land Marks are by some Voyagers
thought very necessary to know Strait Le Mair by, but whoever coasts
Terra Del Fuego within sight of land cannot possibly miss the Strait, it
being of itself so very Conspicuous; and Staten Land, which forms the
East side, is still more so from its very rugged appearance. One League
and a half to the Westward of Cape St. Diego lies Cape St. Vincent,
between these two Capes lies Vincent's Bay,* (* Now called Thetis Bay, it
is a very poor anchorage.) a Small Cove wherein is Wood and Water, and
before which a Ship might Anchor with a Southerly or South-West wind, but
the ground is none of the best, unless you go into the very Mouth of the
Cove, which is on the East side of the first Bluff point from Cape St.
Vincent, where there is Anchorage in 4 fathoms, a Sandy Bottom. In going
in keep clear of the Sea Weed, and send a Boat Ahead to sound, and at
best this is but a bad place for Shipping, and only recommended to such
as are in want of Wood and Water, and have no Opportunity to put into the
Strait, which in Prudence ought not to be attempted but with a fair wind
or Moderate weather, and upon the very first of the Tide of Flood, which
hapens here at the full and Change of the Moon about 1 or 2 o'clock, and
then to keep as near to Terra Del Fuego Shore as the winds will permit.
By using these Precautions you will be sure of either getting quite
through the Straits in one Tide or to the Southward of Success Bay; and
it may be more Prudent to put in there should the wind be Southerly, than
to attempt to weather Staten Land with a Lee Wind and Current, for I
believe this to be the Chief reason why Ships have run a Risk of being
drove on that Island.
Strait Le Maire is formed on the West by part of Terra Del Fuego, and on
the East by the West end of Staten Land or Island; its Length and Breadth
is about 5 Leagues each; about the Middle of the Strait is Success Bay,
on Terra Del Fuego side, and about a 1/4 of a League more to the
Northwards is Port Maurice, a little Cove, before which we Anchored in 12
fathoms.
[Description of Strait of Le Maire.]
The Bay of Success is discovered immediately upon entring the Strait from
the Northward; there is likewise a good Land Mark near the South head to
know it by, which is a Mark on the land like a lane or broad road leading
up from the Sea into the Country; this Bay is 1/2 a League Wide at the
Entrance, and lies in West 2 1/2 Miles, and hath good Anchorage in every
part of it, in 10, 8, and 7 fathoms clear ground, and affords plenty of
exceeding good Wood and Water. The Wood is of the Birch kind, but of a
diffrent Quality to that in England or North America; here are likewise
of the Winter Bark tree and some few others, Wild Selary, some Berrys
like Cranberrys, but growing on Bushes, very few Wild Fowls of any Sort,
and no Fish Except Shell Fish, such as Muscels, Limpets, etc.; and what
we saw of the interior parts of the Country is still more barren of the
necessaries of Life than the Sea. The few days we stay'd here we had
constant bad weather, the Winds from the South-West and West-South-West
with rain, Hail and Snow. Snow generally fell on the Hills everywhere
with these winds when we had rain in the Bay or upon the Sea Coast. I
observed the same in respect to Staten Land, but as it never froze it did
not lay long; yet it must render the Country Cold and barren, and unfit
for Cultivation. The Tides in Success Bay flows at the full and Change of
the Moon, about 4 or 5 o'Clock, and riseth between 5 and 6 feet
Perpendicular, but in the Strait the flood runs 2 or 3 Hours longer, and
there the Ebb or Southerly Current runs near Double the strength of the
Flood or Northerly Current.
Staten Island lies nearest East and West, and from what I could see and
judge of it may be about 12 Leagues in length and 5 in breadth. On the
North side are the appearances of Bays or Harbours, and the land is not
destitute of Wood and Verdure, nor covered with Snow any more than Terra
del Fuego.
On the South-West side of the Cape of good Success (which forms the
South-West entrance of Strait Le Mair, and is known by some rocks off it)
lies Valentine's Bay, the entrance of which we only saw. From this Bay
the land Trends to the West-South-West; for 20 or 30 Leagues it appears
High and Mountainous, and forms several Bays and inlets South-West 1/2
South 14 Leagues from the Cape of good Success, and 2 or 3 Leagues from
the Shore lies New Island; it is 2 leagues in length, North-East and
South-West, the North-East end is terminated by a remarkable Hillock.
South-West 7 Leagues from New Island lies the Isle Evouts, and South, a
little Westerly from this island, lies Barnevelts, two small flatt
Islands close to each other; they are partly Environ'd with rocks of
Different height above water, and lay South-West 24 leagues from Strait
le Mair. From Barnevelts Island to the South-East point of Hermites
island is South-West by South, distance 3 Leagues. These Islands lay
South-East and North-West, and are pretty high, and will, from most
points of view, be taken for one Island or a part of the Main; from the
South-East point of Hermites Isles to Cape Horn, the Course is South-West
by South, distance 3 Leagues. The Appearance of this Cape and Hermites
Islands is represented in the last View in the chart which I have drawn
of this Coast from our first making the land unto Cape Horn, in which is
included Strait Le Mair and part of Staten Land. In this chart I have
laid down no land nor figured out any Shore, but what I saw myself and
thus far the Chart may be depended upon. The Bays and inlets are left
voide, the openings of which we only see from the Ship. It cannot be
doubted but what there is Anchorage, Wood and Water in those Bays, and it
must have been in some of them that the Dutch Squadron commanded by
Hermites put into in the year 1624. It was the Vice Admiral Chapenham, of
this Squadron, who first discovered that the land of Cape Horn was
consisted of a Number of Islands, but the account they have given of
those parts is very short and imperfect, and that of Schouton and Le
Maire still worse, that it is no wonder that the Charts hitherto
published should be found incorrect, not only in laying down the Land,
but in the Latitude and Longitude of the places they contain, but I can
now venture to Assert that the Longitude of few parts of the World are
better Ascertained than that of Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn, being
determined by several Observations of the Sun and moon made both by
myself and Mr. Green, the Astronomer.
We found the Variation of the Compass on this Coast to be from 23 to 25
degrees east, except near Barnevelts Islands and Cape Horn, where we
found it less and unsettled; it is likely that it is here disturbed by
the land, as the Dutch Squadron before mentioned found in this very place
all their Compasses to differ from each other. The declination of the
South point of the Dipping Needle when set up ashore in Success Bay was
68 degrees 15 minutes below the horizon. Between Strait Le Maire and Cape
Horn we found a Current setting generally pretty strong to the North-East
when we were in with the Shore, but when 15 or 20 Leagues off we were not
sencible of any.
REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES IN JANUARY 1769. SOUTH SEAS.
[Off Cape Horn.]
Thursday, 26th. Fresh Gales and thick Hazey weather, with small rain. At
2 p.m., the weather clearing up a little, saw Cape Horn bearing
West-South-West, distance about 6 leagues, and from which I take my
departure. Its Latitude and Longitude have before been taken notice of.
Wind South-West by West to West-North-West; course South 15 degrees West;
distance, 63 miles; latitude 56 degrees 57 minutes South; longitude 68
degrees 13 minutes West; at noon, Cape Horn North, 58 miles.
Friday, 27th. First part, moderate breezes and thick Hazey weather; the
Middle, fair and Cloudy; and the Latter, fresh Gales with some rain. At 8
a.m. took two Setts of Observations of the sun and moon; the first gave
68 degrees 15 minutes; the second, 68 degrees 9 minutes; the Mean of the
2 is 68 degrees 12 minutes West. The Longitude of the Ship at Noon by
these Observations is 68 degrees 42 minutes less 14 minutes, the
Longitude made from Cape Horn, equal to 68 degrees 28 minutes, the
longitude of Cape Horn according to the Observation. A Great many large
Albetrosses about the Ship. Wind, South-West, West and North; course,
South and West; distance, 32 miles; latitude 57 degrees 2 minutes South,
longitude 68 degrees 27 minutes West.
Saturday, 28th. Fresh Gales the most part of this day; first and Middle
parts cloudy; latter, clear with a Sharp cold air. At 2 p.m. saw the
land, bearing North, distant about 8 Leagues; it made in 2 Hummocks, and
appeared to be an Island, which I take to be the Isle of Diego Ramirez.
It lays in the Latitude of 56 degrees 38 minutes South and Longitude 68
degrees 47 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* Diego Ramirez is in 56
degrees 31 minutes South, 68 degrees 43 minutes West.) Found the
Variation this Evening to be 22 degrees East. A.M. had 3 sets of
Observations of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude 69 degrees 7
minutes 15 seconds West. The Longitude of the Ship at Noon by the
Observation is 69 degrees 24 minutes, from which take 1 degree 48
minutes, the longitude made from Cape Horn, the remainder is 67 degrees
36 minutes, the Longitude of the Cape, which is 52 minutes less than the
result of Yesterday's Observations.* (* This was the best observation.)
This difference may arise partly from the Observations and partly from
the Ship's runs; the mean of the 2 gives 68 degrees 2 minutes and 68
degrees 24 minutes, the Longitude of the Cape from the Observations taken
at Strait Maire 136 degrees 26 minutes/2 = 68 degrees 13 minutes West
from Greenwich. The Longitude of Cape Horn being deduced from no less
than 24 Observations taken at no very great distance from the Cape, and
on both sides of it, and when the Sun was both to the East and West of
the Moon; for in this case the Errors arising from the Observations are
most likely to Correct one another. Wind, North and West by North to
North-West by West; course, South 39 degrees West; distance, 80 miles;
latitude 58 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 70 degrees 1 minute West.
Sunday, 29th. First and Latter parts, fresh Gales and Squally, with
flying Showers of rain and Hail; the Middle, strong Gales with heavy
Squalls and showers of rain. At 8 p.m. took 2nd Reef Topsails, at 6 a.m.
Close reefd the Foretopsails and took in the Mizen Topsl, and at 10 set
it again and let the reef out of the Fore top-sails. Wind, West
Northerly; course South-West; distance, 79 miles; latitude 59 degrees 0
minutes South, longitude 72 degrees 48 minutes West.
Monday, 30th. Fore part, fresh Gales and Squally with Hail and rain,
remainder moderate and Cloudy. At 6 a.m. loosed the 2nd reef out of the
Topsails and set Top-gallant Sails. At 11 Longitude per 3 sets of
Observations of the sun and moon, 1st set 73 degrees 38 minutes 15
seconds; second set 73 degrees 25 minutes 45 seconds; and 3rd, 73 degrees
19 minutes 30 seconds; the mean of the whole is 73 degrees 27 minutes 50
seconds West, and 35 minutes less than the Longitude by Dead reckoning,
which is only 6 Leagues in this Latitude, and therefore not worth taking
notice of. Latitude per Observation 60 degrees 4 minutes South. Wind West
by North and West-North-West; course, South 33 degrees West; distance, 76
miles; latitude 60 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 74 degrees 10
minutes West.
Tuesday, 31st. First part moderate and Cloudy, with some rain; in the
night, little wind and Calm; towards Noon, fresh Gales and Cloudy.
Between 7 and 8 p.m., being then in the Latitude of 60 degrees 10
minutes, which was the farthest south we were, and in the Longitude of 74
degrees 30 minutes found the Variation of the Compass by the mean of
Azimuth to be 27 degrees 9 minutes East. At 3 a.m. wind at
East-South-East, and Moderate breeze. Set the Steeringsails, and soon
after 2 Birds like Penguins were seen by the Mate of the Watch. Wind
West-North-West, calm, East-South-East, South-South-East; course North 71
degrees West; distance, 55 miles; latitude 59 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes West.
[February 1769.]
Wednesday, February 1st. First part, fresh Gales; latter, light Airs and
Cloudy; P.M. found the Variation by several Azimuth to be 24 degrees 53
minutes East. At Noon sounded, but had no ground with 240 fathoms of
line; hoisted a Boat out to try if there was any Current, but found none.
The weather was such as to admit Mr. Banks to row round the Ship in a
Lighterman's Skiff shooting birds. Wind, South-East by East,
South-South-East, East; course, North-West by West; distance, 106 miles;
latitude 58 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 78 degrees 42 minutes
West.
Thursday, 2nd. First part, light breezes and Cloudy; remainder, sometimes
a fresh breeze and at other times little wind and hazey, rainy, Cold
weather. Took in the Steeringsls and a reef in each Topsail. Wind
variable, North-North-West, South-West and South; course, West by North;
distance, 82 miles; latitude 58 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 80
degrees 58 minutes West.
Friday, 3rd. Calm and Light Airs, and for the most part Cloudy and
sometimes drizling rain. Variation 24 degrees 4 minutes East. Wind, West
by North, North-West by West; course South 82 West; distance 30 miles;
latitude 58 degrees 33 minutes South, longitude 81 degrees 55 minutes
West.
Saturday, 4th. Fore and Middle parts, little wind and dark cloudy
weather; latter, fresh Gales and Cloudy with some rain. P.M. had a Boat
out and Shott several sorts of Birds, one of which was an Albetross as
large as a Goose, whose wings when Extended measured 10 feet 2 inches;
this was grey, but there are of them all White except the very tip end of
their Wings. Another sort, in size between an Albetross and a large Gull,
of a grey Colour, with a white Spot above their Tail about the Breadth of
one's hand, and several other sorts. Wind Westerly; course North 13
degrees West; distance 48 miles; latitude 57 degrees 45 minutes South,
longitude 82 degrees 16 minutes West.
Sunday, 5th. Fresh gales with heavy squalls the first part; remainder,
little wind and Cloudy. Very cold weather. Wind, West-South-West, West by
North and South-West by West; course North; distance 49 miles; latitude
56 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 82 degrees 16 minutes West.
Monday, 6th. A moderate breeze of Wind with some flying showers of hail
and rain; close upon a Wind all this day. Wind South-West by West to West
by North; course North 1/4 East; distance 86 miles; latitude 55 degrees
20 minutes South, longitude 82 degrees 23 minutes West.
Tuesday, 7th. A fresh breeze and dark cloudy weather, with some showers
of rain; the wind, varying from West to North by West, obliged us to Tack
several times. Wind North-West by West, West by South; course North 20
degrees West; distance 46 miles; latitude 54 degrees 40 minutes South,
longitude 82 degrees 54 minutes West.
Wednesday, 8th. First part, cloudy with Squalls of wind and Showers of
rain and hail; Latter part thick hazey weather, with frequent Showers.
Wind, Westerly, South by West; course North 14 degrees 43 minutes West;
distance 58 miles; latitude 53 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 83
degrees 19 minutes West.
Thursday, 9th. Fresh gales all this day, sometimes squally with rain;
under Double-reef Topsails in the night, and Single-reeft Topsail in the
day. Wind Southerly; course North 55 degrees West: distance 130 miles;
latitude 52 degrees 22 minutes South, longitude 86 degrees 17 minutes
West.
Friday, 10th. The former part of this day had fresh breezes and Dark
cloudy weather; in the night hard Squalls with rain, and afterwards hazy,
rainy weather. Wind Westerly; course North 22 degrees West; distance 67
miles; latitude 51 degrees 16 minutes South, longitude 86 degrees 37
minutes West.
Saturday, 11th. Former part Light Airs with drizling rain; remainder, a
Moderate breeze and Cloudy. Wind, variable, southerly; course, North 54
degrees West; distance 36 miles; latitude 50 degrees 55 minutes South,
longitude 87 degrees 24 minutes West.
Sunday, 12th. First and Middle parts, fresh gales and cloudy; latter,
little wind and clear. Having for some time past generally found the Ship
by Observation to the Northward of the Log, which is not owing to a
Current as I at first imagined, but to a wrong Division of the Log line,
being 2 1/2 feet in each Knot--but this is now rectified. Wind South-West
by South; course North 48 degrees West; distance 113 miles; latitude 49
degrees 41 minutes South, longitude 89 degrees 36 minutes West.
Monday, 13th. The first part of these 24 Hours, moderate breezes and
Cloudy; remainder, fresh Gales and cloudy. P.M saw a great many
Albetrosses and other Birds about the Ship; some were all white and about
the size of Teal. Took several Observations of the sun and moon, the
result of which gave 90 degrees 13 minutes West Longitude from Greenwich.
The Variation of the Compass by the Mean of several Azimuths 17 degrees
East. The Longitude by account is less than that by Observation, 37
minutes, which is about 20 Miles in these high Latitudes, and nearly
equal to the Error of the Log line before mentioned. This near Agreement
of the 2 Longitudes proves to a Demonstration that we have had no Western
Current since we left the Land. Wind West, Northerly; course North 75
degrees West; distance 35 miles; latitude 49 degrees 35 minutes,
longitude 90 degrees 37 minutes.
[Remarks on Passage round Cape Horn.]
From the Foregoing observations it will appear that we are now advanced
about 12 degrees to the westward of the Strait of Magellan, and 3 1/2
degrees to the Northward of it, having been 33* (* N.B. 23 days only from
Success Bay.) days in Doubling Cape Horn or the Land of Terra del Fuego,
and Arriving into the Degree of Latitude and Longitude we are now in, and
without being brought once under our close Reef'd Topsails since we left
Strait Le Maire, a Circumstance that perhaps never hapned before to any
ship in those Seas so much dreaded for Hard gales of Wind; in so much
that the doubling of Cape Horn is thought by some to be a mighty thing,
and others to this day prefer the Straits of Magellan. As I have never
been in those Straits I can only form my Judgement on a Carefull
Comparison of the Different Ships' Journals that have passed them, and
those that have sail'd round Cape Horn, particularly the Dolphin's two
last Voyages and this of ours, being made at the same season of the Year,
when one may reasonable expect the same Winds to prevail. The Dolphin in
her last Voyage was three Months in getting through the Straits, not
reckoning the time she lay in Port Famine; and I am firmly perswaided
from the Winds we have had, that had we come by that Passage we should
not have been in these Seas, besides the fatiguing of our People, the
damage we must have done to our Anchors, Cables, Sails, and Rigging, none
of which have suffer'd in our passage round Cape Horn.
From what I have said it will appear that I am no advocate for the
Straits of Magellan, but it should be expected that I should say
something of Strait le Mair, through which we passed, and this is the
more incumbant on me as it was by choice and contrary to the Advice given
by Mr. Walter, the ingenious Author of Lord Anson's Voyage, who advised
all Ships not to go through this Strait but to go to the Eastward of
Staten Land, and likewise to stand to the Southward as far as 61 or 62
degrees south before any Endeavour is made to get to the Westward. With
respect to the Passing of Strait le Mair or going round Staten Land, I
look upon of little Consequence, and either one or the other to be
pursued according to Circumstances; for if you happen to fall in with the
land to the Westward of the Strait, and the winds favourable for going
through, it certainly must be a piece of folly to lose time in going
round Staten Land, for by paying a little Attention to the Directions I
have already given no ill Consequences can attend; but on the Contrary if
you should fall in with the land to the eastward of the Straits or the
wind should prove Boisterous, or unfavourable, in any of these Cases the
going to the eastward of Staten Land is the most Advisable. And next, as
to running into the Latitude of 61 or 62 degrees South before any
Endeavour is made to get to the Westward, is what I think no man will
ever do that can avoid it, for it cannot be supposed that anyone will
steer south mearly to get into a high Latitude, when at the same time he
can steer west, for it is not Southing but Westing that is wanting. But
this way you cannot Steer because the Wind blows almost Constantly from
that Quarter, so that you have no other Choice but to stand to the
Southward, close upon a Wind, and by keeping upon that Tack you not only
make Southing but Westing also, and sometimes not a little when the wind
Varies to the Northward of West; and the farther you advance to the
Southward the better Chance you have of having the Winds from that
Quarter or Easterly, and likewise of meeting with finer weather, both of
which we ourselves Experienced. Prudence will direct every man when in
those high Latitudes to make sure of sufficient Westing to double all the
lands before he thinks of standing to the Northward. When the winds was
Westerly the Mountains on Terra Del Fuego were generally covered with
dense Clouds, formed, as one may reasonably suppose, by Westerly
Exhalations and by Vapours brought thither by the Westerly winds. From
that Quarter come frequent Showers of rain, hail, and Snow; and after we
had left the land and were standing to the Southward, with the winds
westerly, dark dence clouds were Continually forming in the Horizon, and
rose to about 45 degrees, where they began to dissipate. These were
generally attended with Showers of Rain, or hail, and Squals of Wind, but
as we advanced to the Southward, these Clouds became less dence, and in
the Latitude of 60 degrees 10 minutes, when we got the winds Easterly,
the weather was more serene and Milder; again as we advanced to the
Northward we had a constant Clouded sky and dark gloomy weather, the
whole time exceeding Cold.
[Cape Horn to Tahiti.]
Tuesday, 14th. The first part, fresh Gales and Hazey with rain; the
remainder moderate and Cloudy, with frequent rain. Wind, Westerly, South;
course South-West; distance 32 miles; latitude 49 degrees 6 minutes
South, longitude 91 degrees 12 minutes West.
Wednesday, 15th. Little wind and Cloudy the most part of this day.
Variation per Azimuth in the Evening 12 degrees East, and in the morning
both by an Amplitude and an Azimuth 11 degrees East. A.M. Shifted the
Mainsail, Mizen, Fore, and Main topsail. Wind, South-South-West,
South-West, West by North; course North 46 degrees West; distance 86
miles; latitude 48 degrees 27 minutes South, longitude 92 degrees 5
minutes West.
Thursday, 16th. The first part of this day had fresh Gales and Cloudy; in
the night thick hazey weather with heavy squalls of wind and rain, which
obliged us to close-reef our Topsails. In the morning and all the
forenoon had strong gales and cloudy weather, and very heavy Seas from
the South-South-West, one of which broke upon the Quarter and carried
away the Driver Boom. Wind North-West, West, and South; course North 74
degrees West; distance 97 miles; latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South,
longitude 94 degrees 25 minutes West.
Friday, 17th. Strong Gales and Cloudy the most part of this day. Split
the Maintopsail and unbent it, and bent another. Wind South-South-West;
course North-West by West 1/2 West; distance 132 miles; latitude 46
degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 97 degrees 17 minutes West.
Saturday, 18th. Fresh gales all this day. The weather Variable, sometimes
fair and Cloudy, other times hazey, with drizzling rain. Saw some Birds
nearly as big as Albetrosses; they were all black, with Yellow Beaks.
Wind South-West by West; course North 32 degrees 30 minutes West;
distance 140 miles; latitude 44 degrees 50 minutes South, longitude 99
degrees 7 minutes West.
Sunday, 19th. First part, fresh Gales and Hazey; the Middle part, hazey,
with drizling rain; the latter, gentle breezes and fine Clear weather,
yet the Air is still Cold. Wind South-West by West to West by South;
course North-North-West 3/4 West; distance 103 miles; latitude 43 degrees
21 minutes South, longitude 100 degrees 21 minutes West.
Monday, 20th. Moderate breezes and fine weather the greater part of this
day, and the Sea very smooth. Found by repeated trials that the South
point of the Dipping Needle Dip'd 65 degrees 52 minutes below the
Horizon. Wind Westerly; course South 65 degrees West; distance 58 miles;
latitude 43 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 101 degrees 34 minutes
West.
Tuesday, 21st. Fresh breezes and pretty Clear weather. Variation 6
degrees 30 minutes East. Wind North-West; course South 62 degrees West;
distance 115 miles; latitude 44 degrees 39 minutes South, longitude 103
degrees 54 minutes West.
Wednesday, 22nd. Hazey, rainy weather the most part of this Day. Wind
North-Westerly; course South 86 degrees West; distance 91 miles; latitude
44 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 106 degrees 1 minute West.
Thursday, 23rd. Little wind and Calm, and some Lightning, a thing we have
not seen for some time past, and therefore suppose not common in these
Seas in high Latitudes. Variation 5 degrees 34 minutes East. Wind
North-West, calm; course North 30 degrees East; distance 13 miles;
latitude 44 degrees 35 minutes South, longitude 105 degrees 52 minutes
West.
Friday, 24th. First part, Calm; Middle, light breezes; latter, fresh
breezes and hazey. P.M. had several Azimuths, all of which gave the
Variation less than 4 degrees East, but they were a little doubtful on
account of the Rowling of the Ship. What winds we have had this day hath
been from the Eastward, and are the first we have had from that Quarter
since we left the Latitude 58 degrees 46 minutes. Wind calm,
East-North-East and East-South-East; course North 42 degrees 45 minutes
West; distance 79 miles: latitude 43 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude
107 degrees 6 minutes West.
Saturday, 25th. First and Middle parts, fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some
rain; the Latter, little Wind and Cloudy. Wind South-East by East,
South-South-East; course North 48 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 112
miles; latitude 42 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 109 degrees 0
minutes West.
Sunday, 26th. First part, Calm and light Airs; remainder, very strong
gales and Squally, with Showers of rain, which at length brought us under
our two Courses, and close-reefed Maintopsail. Wind calm, North-West and
West-South-West; course North 26 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 88
miles; latitude 41 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 109 degrees 52
minutes West.
Monday, 27th. First part, Strong Gales and Cloudy; the remainder, Gentle
Breezes and clear weather. P.M. set the topsail one Reef out. A large
swell from the South-West. Wind westerly; course North 18 degrees West;
distance 85 miles; latitude 39 degrees 43 minutes South, 110 degrees 26
minutes West.
Tuesday, 28th. The former part little wind and fine clear weather; the
Air full as warm as in the same Degree of North Latitude at the
Correspondent Season of the Year. The South-West swells still keep up,
notwithstanding the Gale hath been over about 30 Hours, a proof that
there is no land near in that Quarter.* (* These are instances of Cook's
observation and seamanlike perspicacity. The prevailing belief of the
time was in a great southern continent.) The remainder part of this day
fresh breezes and clear. At 9 a.m. took 3 Sets of Observations of the sun
and moon in order to find the Longitude of the Ship. Wind West to
North-West; course North 13 degrees West; distance 42 miles; latitude 39
degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 110 degrees 38 minutes
West.
[March 1769.]
Wednesday, March 1st. First part fresh breezes, the remainder moderate
breezes and clear weather. The result of the Forementioned Observations
gives 110 degrees 33 minutes West Longitude from Greenwich, and exactly
agrees with the Longitude given by the Log from Cape Horn. This Agreement
of the two Longitudes after a Run of 660 leagues is surprizing, and much
more than could be expected; but, as it is so, it serves to prove, as
well as the repeated trials we have made when the weather would permit,
that we have had no Current that hath Affected the Ship since we came
into these Seas. This must be a great Sign that we have been near no land
of any extent, because near land are generally found Currents. It is well
known that on the East side of the Continent in the North Sea we meet
with Currents above 100 Leagues from the Land, and even in the Middle of
the Atlantic Ocean, between Africa and America, are always found
Currents; and I can see no reason why Currents should not be found in
this Sea, supposing a Continent or lands lay not far West from us, as
some have imaggin'd, and if such land was ever seen we cannot be far from
it, as we are now 560 leagues West of the Coast of Chili.* (* These are
instances of Cook's observation and seamanlike perspicacity. The
prevailing belief of the time was in a great southern continent.) Wind
West by South; course North 76 degrees West; distance 52 miles; latitude
38 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 111 degrees 43 minutes West; at
noon, Cape Horn South 60 degrees East 660 leagues.
Thursday, 2nd. Former part, fresh gales and hazey, with much rain; the
remainder, a Strong fresh gale and pretty clear weather. Wind Westerly;
course North by West; distance 87 miles; latitude 37 degrees 16 minutes
South, longitude 112 degrees 5 minutes West.
Friday, 3rd. First part, moderate breezes; remainder, calm and clear
weather. A.M. employed filling salt Water in the Fore Hold and airing all
the Spare Sails. Wind West, calm; course North 17 degrees East; distance
31 miles; latitude 36 degrees 49 minutes South, longitude 111 degrees 34
minutes West.
Saturday, 4th. First part, Calm; remainder, a fine genteel breeze and
clear weather. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude this Evening 2 degrees
26 minutes East. The South-West swell still keeps up, notwithstanding it
hath been Calm 24 hours. Wind calm, North-East, North; course North 50
degrees West; distance 58 miles; latitude 36 degrees 12 minutes South,
longitude 112 degrees 50 minutes West.
Sunday, 5th. First and latter parts, fine Clear weather; the Middle,
fresh gales and Hazey, with rain. Wind North-West by North and
North-West; course South 81 degrees 40 minutes West; distance 64 miles;
latitude 36 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 114 degrees 9 minutes
West.
Monday, 6th. Moderate breezes and Tolerable clear weather all this day.
The wind a little Variable, which caused us to Tack several Times. Wind
North-West by North to West-North-West; course South 57 degrees West;
distance 20 miles; latitude 36 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 114
degrees 30 minutes West.
Tuesday, 7th. A Moderate steady breeze and clear weather. Wind
North-West; course South 64 degrees 15 minutes West; distance, 83 miles;
latitude 37 degrees 8 minutes South, longitude 116 degrees 8 minutes
West.
Wednesday, 8th. The first and Middle parts moderate breezes and Cloudy;
the Latter Part Variable winds and much Rain. Wind North-West, variable;
course South 78 degrees West; distance, 76 miles; latitude 37 degrees 24
minutes South, longitude 117 degrees 41 minutes West.
Thursday, 9th. First part, moderate and Hazey, with Drizling rain; the
remainder fresh breezes and clear weather. Variation 4 degrees 41 minutes
east. Wind South-West by West to South by East; course North 38 degrees
West; distance 123 miles; latitude 35 degrees 47 minutes South, longitude
119 degrees 18 minutes West.
Friday, 10th. Moderate breezes and fine Pleasant weather. Wind
South-East; course North 40 degrees West; distance 121 miles; latitude 34
degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 120 degrees 54 minutes West.
Saturday, 11th. A Steady gale and fine weather. Variation 4 degrees 12
minutes East. Wind South-East; course North 46 degrees 15 minutes West;
distance 116 miles; latitude 32 degrees 54 minutes South, longitude 122
degrees 35 minutes West.
Sunday, 12th. Ditto weather. Variation 4 degrees 12 minutes East. Put the
Ship's Company to three Watches, they having been at Watch and Watch
since our first arrival on the coast of Terra del Fuego. Wind South-East;
course North 49 degrees West; distance 122 miles; latitude 31 degrees 34
minutes South, longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes West.
Monday, 13th. First part a Steady, fresh Gale; the remainder, little wind
and fine Clear weather. Wind South-East; course North 48 degrees 15
minutes West; distance 72 miles; latitude 30 degrees 46 minutes South,
longitude 125 degrees 28 minutes West.
Tuesday, 14th. Little wind and fine Pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. took
several Observations of the sun and moon; the mean result of which gave
126 degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, the Longitude of the Ship West of
Greenwich, and is 47 degrees Longitude West of account carried on from
Cape Horn. Wind South, East-South-East, East-North-East; course North 50
degrees West; distance 47 miles; latitude 30 degrees 17 minutes South,
longitude 126 degrees 10 minutes West.
Wednesday, 15th. Light breezes and clear weather. Variation, p.m. 3
degrees 45 minutes East, a.m. 3 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw a Tropic
Bird. Wind, East-North-East and East-South-East; course, North 47 degrees
15 minutes West; distance, 50 miles; latitude 29 degrees 43 minutes
South, longitude 126 degrees 53 minutes West.
Thursday, 16th. Light Airs next to a Calm and clear Weather. Variation by
the mean result of 21 Azimuths, 1 degree 30 minutes East. This evening
observed an Occultation of h by the [crescent],* (* h is Saturn,
[crescent] the Moon.) Immersion at ---- hours ---- minutes and Emersion
at ---- hours ---- minutes ---- seconds a.m.* (* Blanks in manuscript.)
Variation per several Azimuths 2 degrees East. Wind East-South-East,
South-South-East, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 34 miles;
latitude 29 degrees 22 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 8 minutes
West.
Friday, 17th. Little wind and fine Pleasant weather. Variation, p.m. 3
degrees 27 minutes East. Wind, South-East by South; course, North 20
degrees West; distance, 55 miles; latitude 28 degrees 30 minutes South,
longitude 127 degrees 29 minutes West.
Saturday, 18th. First part, little wind and Cloudy; latter, fresh gales
and hard Squalls, with much rain. Took 2 Reefs in the Topsails. Wind
North-East North; course North 60 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 78
miles; latitude 27 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 128 degrees 44
minutes West.
Sunday, 19th. First part fresh Gales and Squally, with rain; remainder
more moderate and cloudy. Variation, a.m. per Means of several Azimuths,
3 degrees 14 minutes East. Loosed the 2d reefs out of the Topsails. Wind
between the North and West; course North 52 degrees West; distance 50
miles; latitude 27 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28
minutes West.
Monday, 20th. A Fine breeze and pleasant weather. Saw several Tropic
Birds. Wind West; course North; distance 95 miles; latitude 25 degrees 44
minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28 minutes West.
Tuesday, 21st. First part little wind, the remainder Calm. Variation, 3
degrees 43 minutes East. Saw some rock weed and a great many Tropic
Birds. Wind West by North, calm; course North; distance 23 miles;
latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28 minutes
West.
Wednesday, 22nd. First part Calm, in the night Squally, with rain. A.M. a
fresh breeze and Cloudy. Variation per Amplitude 3 degrees 10 minutes
East. Saw some Egg Birds. Wind North by East to North-North-West; course
West; distance 57 miles; latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude
129 degrees 52 minutes West.
Thursday, 23rd. Fresh gales and Squally, with rain, the first part;
remainder fresh Gales and Cloudy. P.M. saw some Men-of-War Birds, and Egg
Birds, and in the Morning saw more Egg Birds and Tropic Birds. The
Man-of-War and Tropic Birds are pretty well known, but the Egg Bird (as
it is called in the Dolphin's Journal) requires some discription to know
it by that Name. It is a small slender Bird of the Gull kind, and all
white, and not much unlike the small white Gulls we have in England, only
not so big.* (* Terns.) There are also Birds in Newfoundland called
Stearings that are of the same shape and Bigness, only they are of a
Greyish Colour. These Birds were called by the Dolphin Egg Birds on
account of their being like those known by that name by Sailors in the
Gulph of Florida; neither they nor the Man-of-War Birds are ever reckoned
to go very far from Land. Wind North by West to West by North: course
North 13 degrees West; distance 49 miles; latitude 24 degrees 43 minutes
South, longitude 130 degrees 8 minutes West.
[Passing Low Archipelago.]
Friday, 24th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some rain in the forepart of
this day. All the forepart of these 24 hours the Sea was smooth, but at
12 at night it was more so, and about 3 in the Morning one of the people
saw, or thought he saw, a Log of Wood pass the Ship. This made us think
that we were near some land,* (* The Endeavour was now passing to the
northward of the easternmost islands of the Paumotu or Low Archipelago,
though out of sight of them.) but at daylight we saw not the least
appearance of any, and I did not think myself at liberty to spend time in
searching for what I was not sure to find, although I thought myself not
far from those Islands discovered by Quiros in 1606; and very probably we
were not, from the birds, etc., we have seen for these 2 or 3 days past.
Wind West-North-West to North-West; course North-East by North 1/4 East;
distance 99 miles; latitude 22 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 129
degrees 2 minutes West.
Saturday, 25th. First part dark cloudy weather, with rain and a fresh
breeze of wind; remainder fair and Cloudy. Wind North-West by North, to
West by North; course North-East 1/2 North; distance 95 miles; latitude
22 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 55 minutes West.
Sunday, 26th. Squally weather, with rain. At 5 p.m. saw some sea Weed
pass the Ship, and at 7 William Greenslade, Marine, either by Accident or
design, went overboard and was Drowned. The following circumstances makes
it appear as tho' it was done design'dly. He had been Centinel at the
Steerage door between 12 and 4 o'clock, where he had taken part of a Seal
Skin put under his charge, and which was found upon him. The other
Marines thought themselves hurt by one of their party commiting a crime
of this nature, and he being a raw young fellow, and, as very probable,
made him resolve upon commiting this rash Action, for the Serjeant not
being willing that it should pass over unknown to me, was about 7 o'clock
going to bring him aft and have it inquired into, when he gave him the
Slip between Decks, and was seen to go upon the Forecastle, and from that
time was seen no more. I was neither made acquainted with the Theft or
the Circumstances attending it, until the Man was gone. Wind, North-West
to West; longitude 127 degrees 43 minutes West.
Monday, 27th. Variable winds and weather, with frequent showers of rain.
At Noon saw a Bird like a Gannet. Wind variable; course North 1/4 East;
distance 30 miles; latitude 21 degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 127
degrees 38 minutes West.
Tuesday, 28th. Little wind and Cloudy. Variation per Amplitude 3 degrees
56 minutes East. Wind Easterly; course North-North-West; distance 37
miles; latitude 20 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 50
minutes West.
Wednesday, 29th. Little winds and Cloudy weather. Variation per Azimuth 2
degrees 27 minutes East. Saw a Bird like a Dove and several fish about
the Ship. Employed worming the Best Br. Cable, repairing and Painting the
Boats. Wind Easterly; course North 75 degrees West; distance 50 miles;
latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes
West.
Thursday, 30th. First part, Calm and close Cloudy weather; in the night
had Variable winds and weather, with rain. A.M. Genteel Breezes and
Cloudy weather. Between 10 and 11 a.m. took several Observations of the
sun and moon; the mean result of them gave the Longitude of the Ship at
Noon to be 127 degrees 38 minutes, and is 1 degree 49 minutes East of the
Longitude given by the Log; but on the 4th Instant the ship by
Observation was 47 minutes West of the Log, therefore she must have lost
2 degrees 36 minutes of the Log since the last Observation--an Error too
great to be accounted for. Wind calm, variable, South-South-East; course
North 40 degrees West; distance 53 miles; latitude 19 degrees 34 minutes
South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes West.
Friday, 31st. A Steady breeze and fine pleasant weather. A.M. took
several Observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of them came
within 8 Miles of Yesterday's Observations computed both by Mr. Green and
myself, and yet cannot think so great an error can have been committed in
the ship's run in so short a time as these observations seem to point
out, and therefore I shall abide by the Longitude given by the Log unless
from subsequent Observations this error should be found to be just. Wind
South; course North 75 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 111 miles;
latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 131 degrees 21 minutes
West.
[April 1769.]
Saturday, April 1st. A steady fresh Trade and fine Weather. Variation per
several Azimuths 2 degrees 32 minutes East. Wind South-East to East 1/2
North; course West; distance 122 miles; latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes
South, longitude 133 degrees 28 minutes West.
Sunday, 2nd. A fresh Trade wind and fine pleasant weather. At Noon saw a
Large flock of Birds; they had brown backs and white Bellies. They fly
and make a noise like Stearings, and are shaped like them, only something
larger. Saw likewise some black Sheerwaters and Several Man-of-War birds.
Wind East; course North 86 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 118 miles;
latitude 19 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude 135 degrees 33 minutes
West.
Monday, 3rd. First and Latter parts a steady fresh Breeze and cloudy; the
Middle, sometimes squally with rain, at other times little wind. P.M. saw
2 Birds like Albetrosses; they were all white except the Tip of their
wings and Tails. Wind East; course North 82 degrees 45 minutes West;
distance 110 miles; latitude 18 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 137
degrees 29 minutes West.
Tuesday, 4th. A Steady fresh Trade and clear weather. At 1/2 past 10 a.m.
saw land bearing south, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Haul'd up for it, and
soon found it to be an Island of about 2 Leagues in Circuit and of an
Oval form, with a Lagoon in the Middle, for which I named it Lagoon
Island. The Border of land Circumscribing this Lagoon is in many places
very low and narrow, particularly on the south side, where it is mostly a
Beach or Reef of rocks; it is the same on the North side in 3 places, and
these disjoins the firm land and make it appear like so many Islands
covered with wood. On the West end of the Island is a large Tree which
looks like a large Tower, and about the Middle of the Island are two
Cocoa Nutt Trees that appears above all the other wood, which as we
approached the Island looked very much like a flag. We approached the
north side of this Island within a Mile, and found no Bottom with 130
fathoms of line, nor did there appear to be Anchorage about it. We saw
several of the Inhabitants, the most of them men, and these Marched along
the shore abreast of the Ships with long Clubs in their hands as tho'
they meant to oppose our landing. They were all naked except their Privy
parts, and were of a Dark Copper Colour with long black Hair, but upon
our leaving the Island some of them were seen to put on a Covering, and
one or two we saw in the Skirts of the Wood was Cloathed in White; these
we supposed to be Women. This Island lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees
47 minutes and Longitude 139 degrees 28 minutes West from the Meridian of
Greenwich;* (* This island is Vahitahi, one of the Paumotu or Low
Archipelago.) variation 2 degrees 54 minutes East. Wind East, East by
South; course North 88 degrees West; distance 114 miles; latitude 18
degrees 42 minutes South, longitude 139 degrees 29 minutes West.
Wednesday, 5th. A fresh steady gale and fine weather. At 1 p.m. made Sail
to the Westward, and at 1/2 past 3 saw land to the North-West, which we
got up with at Sun sett and proved to be a low woody Island of a Circular
form, and not much above a Mile in Compass. This Island I called Thrum
Cap* (* Akiaki. It is inhabited.); it lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees
35 minutes South and in the Longitude of 139 degrees 48 minutes West from
Greenwich, and North 62 degrees West, 7 Leagues from Lagoon Island. We
saw no inhabitants, nor the appearance of any, and yet we were within 1/2
a Mile of the Shore. I observed by the Shore that it was near low Water,
and at Lagoon Island I observed that it was either high Water or else
there was no Ebbing and flowing of the Sea. From these Circumstances I
infer that a South by East or South Moon makes high Water. Here we caught
a King Fish, being the first fish we have got in these Seas. Wind East;
course North 77 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 79 miles; latitude 18
degrees 25 minutes South, longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes West.
Thursday, 6th. A fresh Trade and fine Pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. Saw
land to the Westward, which proved to be an Island of about 12 or 15
Leagues in Compass; is very low and entirely drown'd in the Middle,
forming there a large lake, into which there appeared to be no inlet. The
border of land and Reef surrounding this lake like a wall appeared to be
of a Bow-like figure, for which reason I named it Bow Island. The South
side, along which we sail'd, was one continued low narrow Beach or Reef
like a Causeway for 4 Leagues and upwards, and lies East by North and
West by South. The East and West Ends and North side of this Island are
wooded-in Groves, and the firm Land appeared disjoined and like a Number
of Islands, and very probably is so. The North-West parts of the Island
we only saw aCross the Lake, and not very distinct on account of its
great extent, and night coming on before we had run the whole length of
the Island. This description must be imperfect, and the whole Island may
form a Different figure to what I have here described.* (* Hao. It is a
large atoll, thirty miles in length. Cook only saw a portion of it.) The
east end lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees 23 minutes South, and
Longitude 141 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich. Variation 5 degrees
38 minutes East. This Island is Inhabited; we not only saw smook in
Different Parts, but people also. At Noon saw Land to the Westward. Wind
east; course North 85 degrees West; distance 94 miles; latitude 18
degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 142 degrees 29 minutes West.
Friday, 7th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. got up with the
East end of the Land seen yesterday at Noon, and which proved to be an
assemblage of Islands join'd together by Reef, and extending themselves
North-West by North and South-East by South in 8 or 9 Leagues and of
various breadths; but there appeared to be a total Seperation in the
middle by a Channell of half a Mile broad, and on this account they are
called the two Groups.* (* Marokau and Ravahare. Two atolls close
together.) The South Eastermost of them lies in the Latitude of 18
degrees 12 minutes and Longitude of 142 degrees 42 minutes West from
Greenwich, and West 1/2 North distant 25 Leagues from the West end of Bow
Island. We ranged along the South-West side of this Island, and hauled
into a Bay which lies to the North-West of the Southermost point of them,
and where there appeared to be Anchorage and the Sea was smooth and not
much Surf on the Shore; but we found no ground with 100 fathoms 3/4 of a
Mile from the Shore, and nearer we did not go. Here several of the
Inhabitants assembled together with their Canoes, with a design, as we
thought, to come off to us, as they hauld one of them over the reef
seemingly for that purpose; but after waiting near 1/2 an hour, and they
not attempting to come, we bore away and made Sail, and presentley the
Canoe put off after us; but, as we did not stop, they soon went back
again. They were in all respects like those we had seen on Lagoon Island,
and Armed with Clubs and long Pikes like them. At 1/2 past 6 a.m. Saw a
small Island to the Northward, hauled our wind for it, and soon got close
in with it. It is about 3 or 4 Miles in Circuit, and very low, with a
Pond in the Middle. There is some wood upon it, but no inhabitants but
Birds, and for this reason is called Bird Island.* (* Reitoru.) It lies
in the latitude 17 degrees 48 minutes and longitude 143 degrees 35
minutes West, and West 1/2 North 10 Leagues from the West end of the two
Groups. The birds we saw were Men-of-War Birds and several other sorts.
Wind East; course North 66 degrees West; distance 66 miles; latitude 17
degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 31 minutes West.
Saturday, 8th. Fresh Trade and pleasant weather, but about noon had a few
flying showers of rain. Variation 6 degrees 32 minutes East. Wind East by
South and East; course North 87 degrees West; distance 100 miles;
latitude 17 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 16 minutes
West.
Sunday, 9th. A steady fresh gale and pleasant weather. At 2 p.m. saw Land
to the Northward, hauld up for it, and found it to be a double range of
low woody islands joined together by reefs, by which means they make one
Island in form of an Ellipsis or Oval, in the Middle of which is a Salt
water lake. The small Islands and reefs circumscribes or bounds this lake
like a Chain; it is therefore called Chain Island.* (* Anaa.) It is in
length, North-West and South-East, about 5 Leagues, and in breadth about
5 Miles. The middle of it lies in the Latitude of 17 degrees 23 minutes
South, and Longitude 145 degrees 54 minutes West, and West by North 45
Leagues from Bird Island. Variation per Several Azimuths 4 degrees 54
minutes East. Wind East by North to North by East; course West,
Northerly; distance 81 miles; latitude 17 degrees 42 minutes South,
longitude 146 degrees 40 minutes West.
Monday, 10th. P.M. moderate breezes and cloudy; in the Night, dark,
cloudy, unsettled weather, with very much Thunder, Lightning, and rain.
A.M. little wind and fair. P.M. variation per Several Azimuths 5 degrees
41 minutes East. At 8 a.m. saw Osnaburg Island* (* Maitea, the
easternmost of the Society Islands, which are all high, and a great
contrast to the low coral atolls of the Paumotus.) (so called by Captain
Wallis, the first discoverer) bearing North-West by West, distance 4 or 5
Leagues. It is a high round Island, and appears to be not above a League
in Circuit, and when it bears as above it looks like a high Crown'd Hatt,
but when it bears North the Top is more like the roof of a House. It lies
in the Latitude of 17 degrees 48 minutes South and Longitude 148 degrees
10 minutes West, and West by South, 44 Leagues, from Chain Island. Wind
North-North-West, variable, North-West by North; course South 13 degrees
West; distance 67 miles; latitude 18 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude
147 degrees 47 minutes West; at noon, Osnaburg Island North by West 1/2
West, 5 leagues.
[Arrive at Tahiti.]
Tuesday, 11th. First part, little wind and cloudy; the remainder, little
wind and very Variable; unsettled weather, with some rain. P.M. took
several Observations of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude of the
ship to be 148 degrees 18 minutes West, and differs but little from that
given by the Log. At 6 a.m. saw King George's Island* (* So named by
Captain Wallis. The native name was ascertained by Cook, who spelt it
Otaheite. Now known as Tahiti. It is the chief island of the Society
Group, and was annexed by the French in 1844.) Extending from West by
South 1/2 South to West by North 1/2 North. It appeared very high and
Mountainous. Wind variable; course North 66 degrees West; distance 54
miles; latitude 17 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 39
minutes West; Osnaburg Island East 1/2 South, 13 leagues.
Wednesday, 12th. Variable, light Airs all these 24 Hours, and Hot sultry
weather. At 5 p.m. King George's Island extending from North-West by West
to South-West, distance 6 or 7 Leagues; and at 6 a.m. it bore from
South-South-West to West by North, being little wind with Calms. Several
of the Natives came off to us in their Canoes, but more to look at us
than anything else. We could not prevail with any of them to come on
board, and some would not come near the ship. Wind variable; course West;
distance 18 miles; latitude 17 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 148
degrees 58 minutes West; at noon, King George's Island, from South to
West by North, 5 leagues.
Thursday, 13th. The first part Cloudy and Squally, with Showers of rain;
remainder, genteel breezes and clear weather. At 4 p.m. the North-East
point of Royal Bay West 1/2 North; run under an easy sail all night, and
had soundings from 22 to 12 fathoms 2 or 3 Miles from the Shore. At 5
a.m. made sail for the bay, and at 7 anchored in 13 fathoms.* (* Matavai
Bay.) At this time we had but very few men upon the sick list, and these
had but slite complaints. The Ship's company had in general been very
healthy, owing in a great measure to the Sour kroutt, Portable Soup and
Malt; the two first were served to the People, the one on Beef Days and
the other on Banyan Days. Wort was made of the Malt, and at the
discretion of the Surgeon given to every man that had the least simptoms
of Scurvy upon him. By this means, and the Care and Vigilance of Mr.
Monkhouse, the Surgeon, this disease was prevented from getting a footing
in the Ship. The Sour Kroutt, the Men at first would not eat it, until I
put it in practice--a method I never once Knew to fail with seamen--and
this was to have some of it dressed every day for the Cabin Table, and
permitted all the Officers, without exception, to make use of it, and
left it to the Option of the men either to take as much as they pleased
or none at all; but this practice was not continued above a Week before I
found it necessary to put every one on board to an allowance; for such
are the Tempers and disposition of Seamen in general that whatever you
give them out of the common way--altho' it be ever so much for their
good--it will not go down, and you will hear nothing but murmurings
against the Man that first invented it; but the moment they see their
superiors set a value upon it, it becomes the finest stuff in the world
and the inventor an honest fellow. Wind easterly.