COFFEE.

The dried and roasted berries of the coffee plant make an agreeable and

exhilarating beverage, which does not produce the same dire results as

wine or alcohol, although it affects its votaries in other ways. It

stimulates the nervous system and, if taken to excess, produces tremors

and irregular action of the heart. It increases the frequency of the

pulse, removes the sensation of fatigue during exercise, and also

increases the action of the waste-eliminating organs.

Coffee contains an aromatic oil (which gives to it its distinctive

flavour), a peculiar drug principle, called caffein, and also dextrin

and mineral salts. The aroma of the oil is brought out by the roasting

process.

In England, coffee is usually made from a poor quality of bean, served

up tepid and muddy, and drowned in a deluge of water. Probably it was

prepared in this way, when first introduced into this country, since in

a petition against its use in 1674 it was described as “a base, thick,

nasty, stinking, puddle water.”

It is always wise to pay a good price and obtain the best quality and

then prepare it with due care and attention.

Coffee should preferably be taken either as a pure infusion called

“Black Coffee,” or with an equal part of hot milk. Two teaspoonfuls or

more of whipped egg cream greatly improve its flavour.

Above all, cane or beet sugar should not be added to it, as these spoil

the characteristic flavour of the beverage and eventually ruin the

digestion of the person taking it.

How to Infuse Coffee.

Coffee is always at its best when the berries are freshly roasted as

wanted, and then immediately ground and used. This roasting process,

however, takes up much time, which few people are prepared to give.

The roasted beans keep fairly well, even for months, if packed in small

air-tight hermetically sealed tins or bottles. A slight warming or

parching of the beans, or of the ground coffee, is a fair expedient,

although nothing can compare with the fresh roasting immediately before

the coffee is made.

From 2 to 4 dessertspoonfuls, or 1 to 2 ounces, of coffee should go to

the pint.

Fast boiling water, or milk at a temperature of 180° to 200° F., should

be poured over the infusion, and it should then be allowed to stand for

a few minutes with occasional stirring or shaking until ready.

It has been found that coffee gives up 19 to 25 per cent. as an

infusion, but yields up from 30 to 35 per cent. if prepared as a

decoction. To get this extra value out of the grounds the latter are

often boiled with more water after the infusion has been made. This

decoction is then added to the next lot of fresh infusion to give it

colour and body. The objection to this is that the boiling process

extracts much of the undesirable caffein and astringent matter, which

it is unwise to drink.

In some restaurants, coffee is made in an enamelled saucepan, a pinch

of salt is added to increase the flavour, and boiling water is poured

on. It is set back on the fire, stirred well at intervals and allowed

to come to the boil without actually boiling. The lid is put on and it

is set on a slow fire till a scum arises. It is now lifted from the

fire. Lastly it is allowed to settle and the process repeated.

This is a common (and undesirable) method usually adopted when a

maximum amount of coffee has to be made from a minimum amount of

berries.

Pale Roasted Coffee.

This is a favourite beverage among Food-Reformers. When coffee has

been lightly roasted the caffein is said to be undeveloped and thus

passes away in the grounds. According to the late Joseph Wallace, pale

roasted coffee corrects fermentation, and, unlike ordinarily roasted

coffee, removes dyspepsia and sleeplessness; it is also antidotal

to food poisoning and cholera. Pale roasted coffee, taken in strict

moderation, may be safely looked upon as a distinctly useful beverage

in spite of what may be said against it on the score that it contains

caffein (which is a xanthin or uric acid type of substance).

In preparing pale roasted coffee, the correct way is to use 1 ounce or

4 dessertspoonfuls of freshly ground berries to each pint of water.

It must not be boiled. Infuse in warmed earthenware pot. Pour on fast

boiling water, stir with a wooden spoon, pour backwards and forwards,

then allow to settle. Distilled water is the best to use. When the

coffee settles and goes to the bottom of the pot it is ready.

How Coffee is Spoilt.

A poor cup of coffee is produced as a result of:

(1) Inferior quality, or bad roasting.

(2) The purchase of too large a quantity of ground coffee which thus

loses its aromatic oil as a result of prolonged keeping.

(3) The use of an insufficient or excessive amount of coffee to

the quantity of water used.

(4) Not allowing it to stand long enough or, on the other hand,

boiling it or permitting it to stand too long.

(5) By not serving either coffee or milk thoroughly hot.

Turkish Coffee.

To make this, put into a little metal pot, two large tablespoonfuls

of very finely ground coffee and ½ pint of boiling water; sweeten if

necessary with a tablespoonful of honey. Bring to the boil three times,

then pour into small hot cups without straining.

French Coffee.

The so-called “French Coffee,” as usually sold over here, is a mixture

containing a preponderating amount of chicory, and the coffee used is

often over roasted. It is questionable whether coffee made from this

blend can be truthfully styled “French.” It is well known that the

French people make far better coffee, as a rule, than we do in this

country.

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