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EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS
1748-1846
VOLUME XXX
EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS
1748-1846
A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best
and rarest contemporary volumes of travel,
descriptive of the Aborigines and Social
and Economic Conditions in the Middle
and Far West, during the Period
of Early American Settlement
Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by
Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL. D.
Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," "Original
Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," "Hennepin's New
Discovery," etc.
Volume XXX
Palmer's Journal of Travels over the Rocky Mountains,
1845-1846
[Illustration: decoration]
Cleveland, Ohio
The Arthur H. Clark Company
1906
Copyright 1906, by
The Arthur H. Clark Company
All Rights Reserved
The Lakeside Press
R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company
Chicago
CONTENTS OF VOLUME XXX
PREFACE. _The Editor_ 9
JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVER THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, TO THE
MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER; MADE DURING THE YEARS
1845 AND 1846: containing minute descriptions of
the Valleys of the Willamette, Umpqua, and Clamet; a
general description of Oregon Territory; its inhabitants,
climate, soil, productions, etc., etc.; a list of Necessary
Outfits for Emigrants; and a Table of Distances from
Camp to Camp on the Route. Also; A Letter from the
Rev. H. H. Spalding, resident Missionary, for the last ten
years, among the Nez Percé Tribe of Indians, on the
Kooskooskee River; The Organic Laws of Oregon Territory;
Tables of about 300 words of the Chinook Jargon, and
about 200 Words of the Nez Percé Language; a Description
of Mount Hood; Incidents of Travel, &c., &c.
_Joel Palmer._
Copyright Notice 24
Author's Dedication 25
Publishers' Advertisement 27
Text: Journal, April 16, 1845-July 23, 1846 29
Necessary Outfits for Emigrants traveling to Oregon 257
Words used in the Chinook Jargon 264
Words used in the Nez Percé Language 271
Table of Distances from Independence, Missouri;
and St. Joseph, to Oregon City, in Oregon Territory 277
Appendix:
Letter of the Rev. H. H. Spalding to Joel Palmer,
Oregon Territory, April 7, 1846 283
Organic Laws of Oregon (with amendments). 299
ILLUSTRATION TO VOLUME XXX
FACSIMILE OF TITLE-PAGE, PALMER'S JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 23
PREFACE TO VOLUME XXX
In the wake of the pathfinders, fur-traders, Indian scouts,
missionaries, scientific visitors, and foreign adventurers came the
ultimate figure among early Western travellers, the American pioneer
settler, the fore-runner of the forces of occupation and civilization.
This concluding volume in our series is, therefore, fitly devoted to the
record of an actual home-seeker, and founder of new Western communities.
The significant feature of American history has been the transplanting
of bodies of colonists from one frontier to a newer frontier. In respect
to the Oregon country, our interest therein is enhanced not only by the
great distance and the abundant perils of the way, but also by the
political result in securing the territory to the United States, and the
growth of a prosperous commonwealth in the Far Northwest corner of our
broad domain. In several previous volumes of our series we have
witnessed the beginnings of Oregon civilization. Two of our travellers,
Franchère and Ross, have graphically detailed the Astoria episode,
giving us, not without some literary skill, the skeleton of facts which
Irving's masterful pen clothed with living flesh and healthful color; in
Townsend's pages we found an enduring picture of the régime of the
all-powerful Hudson's Bay Company; De Smet, with faithful, indeed
loving, touches has portrayed the vanishing aborigines, whose sad story
has yet fully to be told--eventually, when the last vestige of their
race has gone, we shall come to recognize the tale as the sorriest
chapter in our annals; Farnham shrewdly narrates the sharp transition to
American occupancy; but Palmer tells us of the triumphant progress of
the conquering pioneer, and in his pages the destiny of Oregon as an
American state is clearly foreshadowed.
"Fifty-four forty, or fight," the belligerent slogan with regard to
Oregon, adopted in the presidential campaign of 1844, was after all not
so much a notice to the British government that the United States
considered the Oregon country her own, beyond recall, as an appeal to
the pioneers of the West to secure this vast inheritance by actual
occupation. As such it proved a trumpet call to thousands of vigorous
American farmers, most of them already possessed of comfortable homes in
the growing communities of the Middle West.
"I have an uncle," declared one of the pioneers to Dr. John McLoughlin,
Hudson's Bay factor on the Pacific coast, "who is rich enough to buy out
your company and all this territory."
"Indeed!" replied the doctor, courteously, "who is he?"
"Uncle Sam," gayly responded the emigrant, with huge enjoyment in his
well-worn witticism. It was at the supposed behest of this same "Uncle
Sam" that farms were sold, wagons and oxen purchased, outfits prepared,
and long caravans of permanent settlers slowly and painfully crossed the
vast plains and rugged mountains lying between the comfortable
settlements of the "Old Northwest"--the "Middle West" of our day--and
the new land of promise in the Far Northwest of the Pacific Slope.
The emigration of 1845 exceeded all that had gone before. That of 1843,
eight hundred strong, had startled the Indians, and surprised the staid
officials of the Hudson's Bay Company. That of 1844 had occupied the
fertile valleys from Puget Sound on the north to Calapooia on the south.
That of 1845 determined that the territory should be the home of
Americans; it doubled the population already on the ground, reinforced
the compact form of government, and laid broad and deep the foundations
of new American commonwealths.
Our author, Joel Palmer, a shrewd, genial farmer from Indiana, was a
leader among these emigrants of 1845. Born across the Canada line in
1810, he nevertheless was of New York parentage, and American to the
core. In early life his family removed to Indiana, where Joel founded a
home at Laurel, in northwest Franklin County. By the suffrages of his
neighbors Palmer was sent to the state legislature in 1844, but the
following year determined to make a tour to Oregon for personal
observation, before deciding to remove his family thither and cast his
future lot with its pioneer settlers. Arrived on the Missouri frontier,
he found that the usual wagon train had gone in advance. However, he
overtook the great body of the emigrants in time to assist in the
organization of the caravan on Big Soldier's Creek, in Kansas.
Gathered from all parts of the Middle West, with no attempt at
organization nor any pre-arrangement whatsoever, the emigrants, who had
not yet forgotten the frontier traditions of their fathers, proved to
be a homogeneous body of about three thousand alert, capable travellers,
provided in general with necessities and even comforts for the hardships
of the long journey; indeed, after the manner of their Aryan forbears in
the great westerly migrations of the past, they were accompanied by
herds of cattle, to form the basis of agricultural life in the new land.
Each of the several hundred wagons was a travelling house, provided with
tents, beds, and cooking utensils; clothing and food were also carried,
sufficient not only for the journey out, but for subsistence through the
first year, always the crucial stage of agricultural pioneering. The
draught cattle were largely oxen, but many of the men rode horses, and
others drove them with their cows and bulls.
Aside from the duties of the nightly encampment and morning "catch-up,"
life upon the migration progressed much as in settled communities. There
were instances of courtship, marriage, illness, and death, and not
infrequently births, among the migrating families. These, together with
the ever-shifting panorama of sky, plains, and mountains, made the
incidents of the long and tedious journey. Occasionally there appeared
upon the horizon an Indian gazing silently at these invaders of his
tribal domain, and at times he came even to the wagon wheels to beg or
trade; the mere numbers of the travellers gave him abundant caution not
to attempt hostilities. The wagons were so numerous as to render a
compact caravan troublesome to manage and disagreeable to travel with.
The great cavalcade soon broke into smaller groups, over one of which,
composed of thirty wagons, Palmer was chosen captain.
At Fort Laramie they rested, and feasted the Indians, who, in wonderment
and not unnatural consternation, swarmed about them in the guise of
beggars. Palmer afterwards harangued the aboriginal visitors, telling
them frankly that their entertainers were no traders, they "were going
to plough and plant the ground," that their relatives were coming behind
them, and these he hoped the red men would treat kindly and allow free
passage--a thinly veiled suggestion that the white army of occupation
had come to stay and must not be interfered with by the native
population, or vengeance would follow.
From Fort Laramie the invaders, for from the standpoint of the Indians
such of course were our Western pioneers, followed the usual trail to
the newly-established supply depot at Fort Bridger. Thence they went by
way of Soda Springs to Fort Hall, where was found awaiting them a
delegation from California, seeking, with but slight success, to
persuade a portion of the emigrants in that direction. Following Lewis
River on its long southern bend, the travellers at last reached Fort
Boise, where provisions could be purchased from Hudson's Bay officials,
and a final breathing-spell be taken before attempting the most
difficult part of the journey--the passage of the Blue and Cascade
ranges.
A considerable company of the emigrants, accompanied by the pilot,
Stephen H. Meek, left the main party near Fort Hall, to force a new
route to the Willamette without following Columbia River. The essay was,
however, disastrous. Meek became bewildered, and was obliged to secrete
himself to escape the revenge of the exasperated travellers, who reached
the Dalles of the Columbia in an exhausted condition, having lost many
of their number through hunger and physical hardships.
Palmer himself continued with the main caravan on the customary route
through the Grande Ronde, down the Umatilla and the Columbia, arriving
at the Dalles by the closing days of September. Here a new difficulty
faced the weary pioneers--there was no wagon road beyond the Dalles;
boats to transport the intending colonists were few, and had been
pre-empted by the early arrivals, while provisions at the Dalles would
soon be exhausted. In this situation Palmer determined to join Samuel K.
Barlow and his company in an attempt to cross the Cascades south of
Mount Hood, and lead the way overland to the Willamette valley. This
proved an arduous task, calling for all the skill and fortitude of
experienced pathfinders. In its course, Palmer ascended Mount Hood,
which he describes as "a sight more nobly grand" than any he had ever
looked upon. At last the valley of the Clackamas was reached, and Oregon
City, the little capital of the new territory, was attained, where "we
were so filled with gratitude that we had reached the settlements of the
white man, and with admiration at the appearance of the large sheet of
water rolling over the Falls, that we stopped, and in this moment of
happiness recounted our toils, in thought, with more rapidity than
tongue can express or pen write." The distance that he had travelled
from Independence, Missouri, our author estimates at 1,960 miles.
Passing the winter of 1845-46 in Oregon, Palmer made a careful
examination of its resources, and in his book describes the country in
much detail. The ensuing spring, after a journey to the Lapwai mission
for horses, he started on the return route, arriving at his home in
Laurel, Indiana, upon the twenty-third of July.
Palmer's experience, although trying, had been sufficiently satisfactory
to justify his intention to make a permanent home in Oregon. In 1847 he
took his family thither, the emigration of that year being sometimes
known as "Palmer's train," he having been elected captain of the entire
caravan, also in recognition of his great utility to the expedition. The
new caravan had but just arrived in Oregon--now belonging definitely to
the United States--when the Whitman massacre aroused the colonists to
punish the Indian participants in order to ensure their own safety. In
the organization of the militia force, Joel Palmer was chosen
quartermaster and commissary general, whence the title of General, by
which he was subsequently known.
He was also made one of two commissioners to attempt to treat with the
recalcitrant tribes, and win to neutrality as many as possible.
Accompanied by Dr. Robert Newell, a former mountain man, and Perrin
Whitman, the murdered man's nephew, as interpreter, Palmer risked his
life in the land of the hostiles, and succeeded in alienating many Nez
Percés and Wallawalla from the guilty Cayuse. Thus was laid the
foundation of that full knowledge of aboriginal character that availed
him in his service as United States superintendent of Indians for
Oregon.
To this difficult position General Palmer was appointed by President
Pierce in 1853, just on the eve of an outbreak in southern Oregon, and
his term of office coincided with the period of Indian wars. After
pacifying the southern tribes, Palmer inaugurated the reservation
system, removing the remnants of the tribes of the Willamette valley and
their southward neighbors to a large tract in Polk and Yamhill counties,
known as Grande Ronde Reservation. This ended the Indian difficulties in
that quarter until the Modoc War, twenty years later.
Palmer found the tribesmen east of the mountains more difficult to
subdue. Scarcely had he and Isaac T. Stevens, governor of Washington
Territory, made a series of treaties (1855) with the Nez Percés, Cayuse,
Wallawalla, and neighboring tribes, when the Yakima War began, and
embroiled both territories until 1858. During these difficulties the
military authorities complained that Commissioner Palmer was too lenient
with former hostiles, and pinned too much faith to their promises.
Consequently the Oregon superintendency was merged with that of
Washington (1857), and James W. Nesmith appointed to the combined
office.
Retiring to his home in Dayton, Yamhill County, which town he had laid
out in 1850, General Palmer was soon called upon to serve in the state
legislature, being speaker of the house of representatives (1862-63),
and state senator (1864-66). During the latter incumbency he declined
being a candidate for United States senator, because of his belief that
a person already holding a public office of emolument should not during
his term be elected to another. In 1870 he was Republican candidate for
governor of the state, but was defeated by a majority of less than seven
hundred votes. From this time forward he lived quietly at Dayton, and
there passed away upon the ninth of June, 1881. His excellent portrait
given in Lyman's _History of Oregon_ (iii, p. 398) is that of an old
man; but the face is still strong and kindly, with a high and broad
forehead, and gentle yet piercing eyes.
One of Palmer's fellow pioneers said of him, "he was a man of ardent
temperament, strong friendships, and full of hope and confidence in his
fellow men." Another calls his greatest characteristic his honesty and
integrity. Widely known and respected in the entire North-West, his
services in the up-building of the new community were of large import.
Not the least of these services was, in our judgment, the publication of
his _Journal of Travels over the Rocky Mountains_, herein reprinted,
which was compiled during the winter of 1846-47, and planned as a guide
for intending emigrants. The author hoped to have it in readiness for
the train of 1847, but the publishers were dilatory and he only received
about a dozen copies before starting. The book proved useful enough,
however, to require two later editions, one in 1851, another in 1852,
and was much used by emigrants of the sixth decade of the past century.
Palmer makes no pretence of literary finish. He gives us a simple
narrative of each day's happenings during his own first journey in 1845,
taking especial care to indicate the route, each night's camping places,
and all possible cut-offs, springs, grassy oases, and whatever else
might conduce to the well-being of the emigrant and his beasts. The
great care taken by the author, with this very practical end in view,
results in his volume being the most complete description of the Oregon
Trail that we now possess. Later, his account of passing around Mount
Hood and the initial survey of the Barlow road, produces a marked effect
through its simplicity of narrative. His incidents have a quaint
individuality, as for instance the reproof from the Cayuse chief for the
impiety of card-playing. No better description of the Willamette valley
can be found than in these pages, and our author's records of the
climate, early prices in Oregon, and the necessities of an emigrant's
outfit, complete a graphic picture of pioneering days.
In the annotation of the present volume, we have had valuable
suggestions and some material help from Principal William I. Marshall of
Chicago, Professor Edmond S. Meany of the University of Washington, Mr.
George H. Himes of Portland, Dr. Joseph Schafer of the University of
Oregon, and Mr. Edward Huggins, a veteran Hudson's Bay Company official
at Fort Nisqually.
With this volume our series of narratives ends, save for the general
index reserved for volume xxxi. The Western travels which began in
tentative excursions into the Indian country around Pittsburg and
Eastern Ohio in 1748, have carried us to the coast of the Pacific. The
continent has been spanned. Not without some exhibitions of wanton
cruelty on the part of the whites have the aborigines been pushed from
their fertile seats and driven to the mountain wall. The American
frontier has steadily retreated--at first from the Alleghanies to the
Middle West, thence across the Mississippi, and now at the close of our
series it is ascending the Missouri and has sent vanguards to the
Farthest Northwest. The ruts of caravan routes have been deeply sunk
into the plains and deserts, and wheel marks are visible through the
length of several mountain passes. The greater part of the continental
interior has been threaded and mapped. The era of railroad building and
the engineer is at hand. The long journey to the Western ocean has been
ridded of much of its peril, and is less a question of mighty endurance
than confronted the pathfinders. When Francis Parkman, the historian of
New France, going out upon the first stages of the Oregon Trail in
1847--the year following the date of the present volume--saw emigrant
wagons fitted with rocking chairs and cooking stoves, he foresaw the
advent of the commonplace upon the plains, and the end of the romance of
EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS.
Throughout the entire task of preparing for the press this series of
reprints, the Editor has had the assistance of Louise Phelps Kellogg,
Ph. D., a member of his staff in the Wisconsin Historical Library.
Others have also rendered editorial aid, duly acknowledged in the
several volumes as occasion arose; but from beginning to end,
particularly in the matter of annotation, Dr. Kellogg has been his
principal research colleague, and he takes great pleasure in asking for
her a generous share of whatever credit may accrue from the undertaking.
Annie Amelia Nunns, A. B., also of his library staff, has rendered most
valuable expert aid, chiefly in proofreading and indexing. The Editor
cannot close his last word to the Reader without gratefully calling
attention, as well, to the admirable mechanical and artistic dress with
which his friends the Publishers have generously clothed the series, and
to bear witness to their kindly suggestions, active assistance, and
unwearied patience, during the several years of preparation and
publication.
R. G. T.
MADISON, WIS., August, 1906.
PALMER'S JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVER THE ROCKY
MOUNTAINS, 1845-1846
Reprint of original edition: Cincinnati, 1847
JOURNAL OF TRAVELS
OVER THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS,
TO THE
MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER;
MADE DURING THE YEARS 1845 AND 1846:
CONTAINING MINUTE DESCRIPTIONS OF THE
VALLEYS OF THE WILLAMETTE, UMPQUA, AND CLAMET;
A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF
OREGON TERRITORY;
ITS INHABITANTS, CLIMATE, SOIL, PRODUCTIONS, ETC., ETC.;
A LIST OF
NECESSARY OUTFITS FOR EMIGRANTS;
AND A
Table of Distances from Camp to Camp on the Route.
ALSO;
A Letter from the Rev. H. H. Spalding, resident Missionary, for the
last ten years, among the Nez Percé Tribe of Indians, on the
Kooskooskee River; The Organic Laws of Oregon Territory, Tables
of about 300 words of the Chinook Jargon, and about 200 Words
of the Nez Percé Language; a Description of Mount Hood; Incidents
of Travel, &c., &c.
BY JOEL PALMER.
CINCINNATI:
J. A. & U. P. JAMES, WALNUT STREET,
BETWEEN FOURTH AND FIFTH.
1847.
ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1847, by
J. A. & U. P. JAMES,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Ohio.
TO THE
PIONEERS OF THE WEST,
AND THEIR DESCENDANTS,
THE BONE AND MUSCLE OF THE COMMUNITY,
WHO IMPROVE AND ENRICH THE COUNTRY IN PEACE,
AND PROTECT AND DEFEND IT IN WAR,
THIS WORK
IS RESPECTFULLY
DEDICATED.
PUBLISHERS' ADVERTISEMENT
In offering to the public a new work on Oregon, the publishers feel
confident that they are performing an acceptable service to all who are
desirous of obtaining full and correct information of that extensive and
interesting region.
The facts contained in this Journal of Travels over the Rocky Mountains
were obtained, by the author, from personal inspection and observation;
or derived from intelligent persons, some of whom had resided in the
country for ten years previously. It contains, as is believed, much very
valuable information never before published, respecting the Oregon
Territory.
Mr. Palmer's statements and descriptions are direct and clear, and may
be relied on for their accuracy. He observed with the eye of an
intelligent farmer the hills and valleys; timbered land and prairies,
soil, grass, mill sites, &c.; all of which he has particularly
described.
To the man about to emigrate to Oregon just the kind of information
needed is given. He is informed what is the best season for setting out;
the kinds and quantities of necessary outfits; where they may be
purchased to the best advantage, so as to save money, time and useless
hauling of provisions, and to promote comfort and prevent suffering on
the long journey.
{vi} A particular account of Oregon City is given; the number of houses
and inhabitants; the number and kinds of mechanical trades carried on;
and the prices current during the author's stay there.
The objects of natural curiosity on the route--the Solitary Tower--the
Chimney Rock--Independence Rock--the Hot Springs--the Devil's Gate--the
South Pass--the Soda Springs, and many others--are noticed.
The work is enlivened with anecdotes of mountaineer life--shooting
buffalo--hunting bear--taking fish, &c.
Mr. Palmer made the ascent of one of the highest peaks of Mount Hood,
almost alone, and with a very scanty supply of provisions. An
extraordinary achievement, when the circumstances under which it was
accomplished are taken into consideration.
_Cincinnati, January, 1847._
JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVER THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
Having concluded, from the best information I was able to obtain, that
the Oregon Territory offers great inducements to emigrants, I determined
to visit it with a view of satisfying myself in regard to it, and of
ascertaining by personal observation whether its advantages were
sufficient to warrant me in the effort to make it my future home.[1] I
started, accordingly, on the morning of the 16th of April, 1845, in
company with Mr. Spencer Buckley. We expected to be joined by several
young men from Rushville, Ind., but they all abandoned the enterprise,
and gave us no other encouragement than their good wishes for our
success and safety. I took leave of my family, friends and home, with a
truly melancholy heart. I had long looked forward and suffered in
imagination the pain of this anticipated separation; but I had not
tasted of its _realities_, and none but those who have parted with a
family under similar circumstances, can form any just conception of the
depth and power of the emotions which pervaded my breast on that
occasion. The undertaking before me was arduous. It _might_ and
doubtless _would_ be attended with various and unknown difficulties,
privations and dangers. A doubt arose in my mind, whether the
advantages, which were expected to result from the trip, would be likely
to compensate for the time and expense necessary to accomplish it: but I
believed that I was right, hoped for the best, and pressed onward.
We were favoured with a pleasant day and good roads, which tended in
some degree to dissipate the gloom which {10} had weighed down my
spirits upon leaving _home_. Our day's travel ended at Blue River, on
the banks of which we encamped for the first time on the long and
tedious journey before us.[2]
_April 17._ Arrived at Indianapolis, in the afternoon, where we expected
to meet a number of persons, who had expressed a determination to join
the party.[3] But here too, as in the case of our Rushville friends, we
were doomed to meet disappointment;--not one was found willing to join
us in our expedition. After having had our horses well shod, (we
traveled in an ordinary wagon drawn by two horses,) and having laid in a
supply of medicines, we put up for the night.
_April 18._ We this day had a sample of what might be called the
_mishaps_ of travelers--an encounter with a wild animal, the first which
we met in our journey. One of our horses becoming lame, we were obliged
to trade him away, and received in exchange one so wild, that it
required the greatest vigilance and exertion on our part to prevent him
from running away with our whole concern. We reached Mount Meridian
after a day's journey of about thirty-four miles, during which we
succeeded admirably in taming our wild horse.[4]
_April 24._ Reached the Mississippi, opposite to St. Louis, having
traveled daily, and made the best of our time after leaving Mount
Meridian.
_April 25._ We made a few purchases this morning, consisting chiefly of
Indian trinkets, tobacco, powder, lead, &c. and, soon after, resumed our
journey upon the road to St. Charles, the seat of justice for St.
Charles county.[5] We reached this place at the close of the day, and
encamped upon the banks of the Missouri, which appears to be about as
wide as the Ohio at Cincinnati, in a fair stage of water; the current is
quite strong; the water very thick and muddy. Here, we overtook a
company of Germans, from St. Louis, who had started for California. The
company consisted of four men, two women and three children; they
traveled with a wagon drawn by six mules, and a cart drawn by two,--a
very poor means of conveyance for such a long and tedious route. We
traveled the same road until we reached Fort Hall.
_April 26._ At nine o'clock A. M. we crossed the river and traveled
twenty-eight miles. The surface of the country is somewhat undulating;
the soil, though poorly watered, appears to be good, and produces
respectable crops.
_April 27._ We traveled thirty-one miles. The day was rainy {11} and
unpleasant. The country through which we passed is a rolling prairie:
some parts of it are very well timbered. On account of the scarcity of
springs, the people rely generally upon their supplies of _rain_ water.
There we were joined by a clever backwoodsman, by the name of Dodson,
who was making the best of his lonely journey to join an emigrating
party at Independence; upon his consenting to bear an equal share in our
expenses and outfit at that place, we took him in, and traveled
together.
_April 28._ We started this morning at sunrise, and traveled to Lute
creek, a distance of six and a half miles.[6] This stream was so much
swollen, in consequence of the recent rains, that we were unable to ford
it, and were forced to encamp upon its banks, and remain all day. While
there, we were greatly annoyed by the _wood-tick_--an insect resembling,
in size and in other respects, the _sheep-tick_. These insects, with
which the bushes and even the ground seemed to be covered, fastened
themselves with such tenacity upon our flesh, that when picking them off
in the morning, the head would remain sticking fast to the skin, causing
in most cases a painful wound.
_April 29._ We traveled about twenty-six miles, through a gently
undulating country: the principal crops consisted of corn, oats, tobacco
and some wheat. We passed through Williamsburgh and Fulton. The latter
town is the seat of justice for Callaway county.[7]
_April 30._ We made an advance of about thirty miles through a well
timbered country, and passed through Columbia, the seat of justice for
Boone county. The town is pleasant and surrounded by a fertile and
attractive country. We made our halt and encamped for the night, five
miles westward of this town.
_May 1._ We started this morning at the usual hour, and after a ride of
eight miles, reached and re-crossed the Missouri, at Rocheport, and
continued our journey until night, passing through Booneville, the
county seat of Cooper--a rich and fertile county, making in all a ride
of twenty-six miles.[8]
_May 2._ Passed through the town of Marshall, the seat of justice for
Saline county. The town stands upon an elevated prairie, upon which may
be found a few groves of shrubby timber. The country upon this [the
west] side appeared to be much better supplied with water, than that
upon the east side.[9]
_May 3._ We traveled about twenty-eight miles, over a thinly-settled
{12} prairie country. The crops, cultivated generally by negroes,
consisted of hemp, corn, oats, and a little wheat and tobacco. The soil
appeared to be good, but the scarcity of timber will prove a serious
barrier to a complete settlement of the country.
_May 4._ We traveled twenty-three miles this day, through a better
improved and pleasanter part of Missouri, than any we have yet seen. The
crops appeared well; there were fine orchards under successful
cultivation. The country is well timbered, and there appears nothing to
hinder it from becoming the seat of a dense and thriving population.
_May 6._ Reached Independence at nine o'clock A.M.;[10] and as the main
body of emigrants had left a few days previous, we hastily laid in our
supplies, and at five o'clock P. M., pushed forward about two miles, and
encamped upon the banks of a small creek, in company with four wagons,
bound for Oregon. From one of the wagons they drew forth a large jug of
whiskey, and before bed-time all the men were completely intoxicated. In
the crowd was a mountaineer, who gave us a few lessons in the first
chapter of a life among the mountains. At midnight, when all were quiet,
I wrapped myself in my blanket, laid down under an oak tree, and began
to realize that I was on my journey to Oregon.
_May 7._ After traveling about fifteen miles we halted and procured an
extra set of horse-shoes, and a few additional wagon bows. The main body
of the emigrants is twenty-five miles in advance of us: we have now
passed out of Missouri, and are traveling in an Indian country--most of
which is a rolling prairie.[11]
_May 8._ We started at seven o'clock, A. M. and traveled about twenty
miles. Towards evening we overtook an emigrating company, consisting of
thirty-eight wagons, with about one thousand head of loose cattle, all
under the direction of a Mr. Brown. We passed this company, expecting to
overtake a company of about one hundred wagons, which were but a few
miles before us. The night, however, became so dark that we were
compelled to encamp upon the prairie. Soon after we had staked our
horses, a herd of wild Indian horses came galloping furiously by us,
which so alarmed our horses and mules, that they broke loose and ran
away after them. Dodson and myself pursued, but were distanced, and
after running two or three miles, abandoned the chase as hopeless, and
attempted to return to the camp. Owing to the darkness, we {13} were
unable to find our camp, until the night had far advanced; and when we
finally reached it, it required all my logic, supported by the positive
testimony of Buckley, to convince Dodson that we were actually there.
_May 9._ At daylight, Dodson and I resumed the search for our lost
stock. After a fatiguing tramp of several hours, I came upon _one_ of
the mules, which being hobbled, had been unable to keep with the herd.
Dodson was unsuccessful, and returned to camp before me; during our
absence, however, the herd had strolled near the camp, and Buckley had
succeeded in taking our two _horses_. Having taken some refreshments, we
started again in search of the lost animals. As I was returning to camp,
hopeless, weary and hungry, I saw at a distance Dodson and Buckley
mounted upon our two horses, and giving chase to the herd of Indian
horses, among which were our two mules. The scene was wild, romantic and
exciting. The race was untrammeled by any of those arbitrary and
useless rules with which the "knights of the turf" encumber their races,
and was pursued on both sides, for a nobler purpose; it was to decide
between the rights of _property_ on the one side, and the rights of
_liberty_ on the other. The contest was for a long time doubtful; but
the herd finally succeeded in winning the race, and poor Buckley and
Dodson were compelled to yield; the former having lost his reputation as
a sportsman, and the latter--what grieved him more,--his _team_; and
_both_ had ruined the character of their coursers in suffering them to
be beaten. Sad and dispirited, they returned to camp, where, after a
short consultation, it was unanimously resolved,--inasmuch as there was
no _other_ alternative,--to suffer the mules freely and forever to enjoy
the enlarged liberty which they had so nobly won.
The day was nearly spent, but we harnessed up our team and traveled four
miles, to the crossing of a creek, where we encamped for the night.
_May 10._ Re-considered our resolution of last evening, and spent the
morning looking for the mules--re-adopted the _same_ resolution, for the
_same_ reason, and then resumed our journey.
We advanced about eighteen miles through a very fertile and well watered
country, and possessing, along the banks of the water courses, a supply
of bur and white oak, ash, elm, and black walnut timber, amply
sufficient for all practical purposes. In our travel, we crossed a
stream called the Walkarusha, extending back from which, about two miles
in width, {14} we discovered a fine bottom covered with heavy bur oak
and black walnut timber. After passing through this bottom, the trail
strikes into a level and beautiful prairie, and crossing it--a distance
of four miles--rises gradually to the ridge between the Walkarusha and
the Caw, or Kansas river.[12] We encamped upon the ridge, in full view
of the two streams, which at this place are from six to eight miles
apart. The banks of both streams, as far as can be seen, are lined,
either way, with excellent timber: the country rises gradually from the
streams, for fifteen or twenty miles, with alternate forests and
prairies, presenting to the eye a truly splendid scene. I noticed here
almost a countless number of _mounds_, in different directions--some
covered with timber, others with long grass. The Caw or Kansas Indians
dwell along these streams. Through this part of the route there are
_two_ trails, uniting near our camp; the difference in the distance is
small.[13]
_May 11._ We traveled about twenty miles, and passed a company of
twenty-eight wagons. The road runs upon the ridge, which after a
distance of ten or twelve miles becomes a broad rolling prairie. As
night came on, we came up with the company of one hundred wagons which
we were in pursuit of: they were encamped upon the banks of a small
brook, four miles from the Kansas, into which it empties. We joined this
company. At dark the guard was stationed, who becoming tired of their
monotonous round of duty, amused themselves by shooting several dogs,
and by so doing excited no small tumult in the company, which after some
exertion on the part of the more orderly portion was quelled, and
tranquility restored.
_May 12._ We traveled about four miles to Caw or Kansas river. This is
a muddy stream, of about two hundred and fifty yards in width. We were
obliged to be ferried over it in a flat boat; and so large was our
company, and so slowly did the ferrymen carry on the necessary
operations, that darkness overtook us before half the wagons had crossed
the stream. Fearing molestation from the numerous Indians who were
prowling about, we were compelled to keep a strong guard around our
camp, and especially around our cattle; and when all the preliminaries
had been arranged, we betook ourselves to rest; but our tranquility was
soon interrupted by one of the most terrific thunder storms that I ever
witnessed. It appeared to me that the very _elements_ had broken loose,
and that each was engaging madly in a desperate struggle for the
mastery. All was confusion in our camp. The storm had so frightened the
cattle, {15} that they were perfectly furious and ungovernable, and
rushed through the guard, and dashed forward over the country before us:
nothing could be done to secure them, and we were obliged to allow them
to have out their race, and endeavor to guard our camp.
_May 13._ Early this morning we succeeded in finding and taking
possession of our cattle, and by noon all our wagons had crossed the
river. Soon after we took up our line of march, and after advancing
about three miles, encamped near the banks of Big Soldier creek, for the
purpose of organizing the company by an election of officers; the
officers _then_ acting having been elected to serve only until the
company should reach _this place_.[14] It was decided, when at
Independence, that _here_ there should be a thorough and complete
organization. Great interest had been manifested in regard to the matter
while upon the road; but _now_ when we had reached the spot and the
period for attending to the matter in earnest had arrived, the
excitement was intense. The most important officers to be elected were
the pilot and captain of the company. There were two candidates for the
office of pilot,--one a Mr. Adams, from Independence,--the other a Mr.
Meek, from the same place. Mr. Adams had once been as far west as Fort
Laramie, had in his possession Gilpin's Notes,[15] had engaged a
Spaniard, who had traveled over the whole route, to accompany him, and
moreover had been conspicuously instrumental in producing the "Oregon
fever." In case the company would elect him pilot, and pay him five
hundred dollars, _in advance_, he would bind himself to pilot them to
Fort Vancouver.
Mr. Meek, an old mountaineer, had spent several years as a trader and
trapper, among the mountains, and had once been through to Fort
Vancouver;[16] he proposed to pilot us through for two hundred and fifty
dollars, _thirty_ of which were to be paid in advance, and the balance
when we arrived at Fort Vancouver. A motion was then made to postpone
the election to the next day. While we were considering the motion, Meek
came running into the camp, and informed us that the Indians were
driving away our cattle. This intelligence caused the utmost confusion:
motions and propositions, candidates and their special friends, were
alike disregarded; _rifles_ were grasped, and _horses_ were hastily
mounted, and away we all galloped in pursuit. Our two thousand head of
cattle were now scattered over the prairie, at a distance of four or
five miles from the camp.
{16} About two miles from camp, in full view, up the prairie, was a
small Indian village; the greater part of our enraged people, with the
hope of hearing from the lost cattle, drove rapidly forward to this
place. As they approached the village, the poor Indians were seen
running to and fro, in great dismay--their women and children skulking
about and hiding themselves,--while the chiefs came forward, greeted our
party kindly, and by signs offered to smoke the pipe of peace, and
engage with them in trade. On being charged with the theft of our
cattle, they firmly asserted their innocence; and such was their
conduct, that the majority of the party was convinced they had been
wrongfully accused: but one poor fellow, who had just returned to the
village, and manifested great alarm upon seeing so many "pale faces,"
was taken; and failing to prove his innocence, was hurried away to camp
and placed under guard. Meanwhile, after the greater part of the company
had returned to camp, and the captain had assembled the _judges_, the
prisoner was arraigned at the bar for trial, and the solemn
interrogatory, "Are you guilty or not guilty," was propounded to him:
but to this, his only answer was--a grunt, the import of which the
honorable court not being able clearly to comprehend, his trial was
formally commenced and duly carried through. The evidence brought
forward against him not being sufficient to sustain the charge, he was
fully acquitted; and, when released, "_split_" for his wigwam in the
village. After the excitement had in some degree subsided, and the
affair was calmly considered, it was believed by most of us that the
false alarm in regard to the Indians had been raised with the design of
breaking up or postponing the election. If such _was_ the design, it
succeeded admirably.
_May 14._ Immediately after breakfast, the camp was assembled, and
proceeded to the election of officers and the business of organization.
The election resulted in the choice of S. L. Meek, as pilot, and Doctor
P. Welch,[17] formerly of Indiana, as captain, with a host of
subalterns; such as lieutenants, judges, sergeants, &c.
After these matters had been disposed of, we harnessed up our teams and
traveled about five miles, and encamped with Big Soldier creek on our
right hand and Caw river on our left.
The next day we were delayed in crossing Big Soldier creek, on account
of the steepness of its banks; and advanced only twelve miles through a
prairie country. Here {17} sixteen wagons separated from us, and we were
joined by fifteen others.
_May 17._ We traveled eighteen miles over a high, rolling prairie, and
encamped on the banks of Little Vermilion creek, in sight of a Caw
village. The principal chief resides at this village.[18] Our camp here
replenished their stores; and, although these Indians may be a set of
beggarly thieves, they conducted themselves honorably in their dealings
with us; in view of which we raised for their benefit a contribution of
tobacco, powder, lead, &c., and received in return many good wishes for
a pleasant and successful journey. After leaving them, we traveled about
twelve miles over a fertile prairie. In the evening, after we had
encamped and taken our supper, a wedding was attended to with peculiar
interest.
_May 19._ This day our camp did not rise. A growing spirit of
dissatisfaction had prevailed since the election; there were a great
number of disappointed candidates, who were unwilling to submit to the
will of the majority; and to such a degree had a disorderly spirit been
manifested, that it was deemed expedient to divide the company.
Accordingly, it was mutually agreed upon, to form, from the _whole_
body, three companies; and that, while each company should select its
own officers and manage its internal affairs, the pilot, and Capt.
Welsh, who had been elected by the whole company, should retain their
posts, and travel with the company in advance. It was also arranged,
that each company should take its turn in traveling in advance, for a
week at a time. A proposition was then made and acceded to, which
provided that a collection of funds, with which to pay the pilot, should
be made previous to the separation, and placed in the hands of some
person to be chosen by the _whole_, as treasurer, who should give bonds,
with approved security, for the fulfilment of his duty.
A treasurer was accordingly chosen, who after giving the necessary bond,
collected about one hundred and ninety dollars of the money promised;
some refused to pay, and others had no money in their possession. All
these and similar matters having been satisfactorily arranged, the
separation took place, and the companies proceeded to the election of
the necessary officers. The company to which I had attached myself,
consisting of thirty wagons, insisted that I should officiate as their
captain, and with some reluctance I consented. We dispensed with many of
the offices and formalities which {18} existed in the former company,
and after adopting certain regulations respecting the government of the
company, and settling other necessary preliminaries, we retired to rest
for the night.
_May 20._ We have this day traveled fifteen miles, through a prairie
country, with occasionally a small grove along the streams.
_May 22._ Yesterday after moving thirteen miles we crossed Big
Vermillion, and encamped a mile beyond its west bank; we found a
limestone country, quite hilly, indeed almost mountainous. To-day we
have crossed Bee, and Big Blue creeks; the latter stream is lined with
oak, walnut, and hickory.[19] We encamped two and a half miles west of
it. During the night it rained very hard. Our cattle became frightened
and all ran away.
_May 23._ Made to-day but eight miles. Our pilot notified us that this
would be our last opportunity to procure timber for axle trees, wagon
tongues, &c., and we provided a supply of this important material. Our
cattle were all found.
_May 25._ Early this morning we were passed by Col. Kearney and his
party of dragoons, numbering about three hundred. They have with them
nineteen wagons drawn by mules, and drive fifty head of cattle and
twenty-five head of sheep. They go to the South Pass of the Rocky
Mountains.[20] Our travel of to-day and yesterday is thirty-two miles,
during which we have crossed several small streams, skirted by trees.
The soil looks fertile.
_May 26._ Overtook Capt. Welsh's company to-day. We passed twelve miles
through a rolling prairie region, and encamped on Little Sandy.
_May 27._ As it was now the turn of our company to travel in advance, we
were joined by Capt. Welsh and our pilot. The country is of the same
character with that we passed through on yesterday, and is highly
adapted to the purpose of settlement, having a good soil, and streams
well lined with timber.
_May 31._ In the afternoon of the 28th we struck the Republican fork of
Blue River,[21] along which for fifty miles lay the route we were
traveling. Its banks afford oak, ash and hickory, and often open out
into wide and fertile bottoms. Here and there we observed cotton wood
and willow. The pea vine grows wild, in great abundance on the bottoms.
The pea is smaller than our common garden pea and afforded us a {19}
pleasant vegetable. We saw also a few wild turkies. To-day we reached a
point where a trail turns from this stream, a distance of twenty-five
miles, to the Platte or Nebraska river. We kept the left hand route, and
some nine or ten miles beyond this trail, we made our last encampment on
the Republican Fork.