PART V.

ART OF BLENDING TEAS.

The primary object and fundamental principle of successful and

profitable Tea blending should be to obtain in a consolidated form what

is known as harmony of combination, that is, strength, pungency, flavor

and piquancy in the infusion, and at the same time to accomplish this

result with the smallest possible outlay. In order to secure this end

three important rules must be carefully followed: (1.) To learn the

taste of the consumer. (2.) To ascertain what Teas will combine best

to suit this taste, and (3.) To find out to what extent the component

parts of a once-adopted and satisfactory blend may be varied in case

of any difficulty to secure the same kind or grade of Teas for future

use. These essential objects can be best attained only by the proper

selecting, weighing and arranging of the proportionate qualities

and quantities of the different varieties and grades of Tea in such

a manner as to secure the best results with as little variation as

possible, so that before proceeding to produce a specific blend or

combination the dealer must consider well the descriptions of Tea that

will amalgamate most satisfactorily as well as those that will not

unite harmoniously, as _Teas that are not improved by combination are

certain to be deteriorated in blending_.

The whole art in successful Tea blending being to combine body and

pungency with some particular and distinct flavor in one in order to

please a majority of that portion of the public for whom the Tea is

specially prepared, and at the same time to arrange its constituent

parts in such a manner that this most desirable result may be

accomplished at a moderate cost to the dealer than that of any single

higher-priced variety, and again to learn how far the component parts

may be varied without seriously affecting its regularity, so that

advantage may be taken of the cheapness of any necessary variety or

grade in market during the season. But it must be understood at the

outset that all combinations of Tea, as a rule, must depend upon the

general character, grade and flavor of the Tea most in demand in the

particular section or district for which they are intended, that special

variety or grade forming the base or foundation of the blends prepared

for it; that is, it must dominate the combinations. As, for instance,

where Oolongs are most in demand the blend must consist of from

one-half to two-thirds of that variety, and so on with Congous, Japans,

India and Ceylon Teas, as the case may be.

* * * * *

Uniformity of quality and flavor in Tea can only be secured by

intelligent and skillful blending, so that the advantages to be gained

by the mixing of several varieties and grades of Tea together is so

apparent that it needs no arguments to sustain them. But as only the

most expensive Teas possess in any marked degree the best all-round

qualities which go to make a thoroughly satisfactory beverage when used

alone, it is only by intelligent blending that this most desirable

result can be obtained at a moderate cost to the dealer. Again it is

the dealer who understands the art of blending his Teas successfully

who will invariably lead his competitors in the Tea-trade.

* * * * *

The taste for any particular-flavored Tea being an acquired and not

a natural one, it necessarily follows that those consumers who have

been accustomed to a certain flavor invariably want that particular

flavor again, and so will be displeased with any other Tea that does

not possess it, although it may be much higher priced and better in

every way. Users of wine and other beverages have their likes and

dislikes, one preferring a light or mild and another a strong or

bitter taste, and so it is with most Tea drinkers when once they have

acquired a preference for some particular-flavored Tea. This being a

well-established fact among the Tea trade, it becomes essential for

the successful Tea blender to study and learn what particular variety,

grade or flavor of Tea his patrons have been accustomed to before

attempting to cater to it, as not only is there a more divergence

in the taste for Teas in the different parts of the country, but in

cities, towns and even in localities the specific flavors in demand

are so numerous and various that most of the leading Tea dealers have

been enabled to mark out a distinct trade for themselves. In large

cities this is a very wise and desirable policy to pursue, providing

the blend or blends adopted and found satisfactory are kept uniform and

regular thereafter, as it secures the return again and again of the

same customer to the dealer, and thus keeps his Tea business not only

steady but progressive. Even away from the large cities it is well to

bear the importance of this policy in mind, but while at the beginning

it may be found more advisable to keep fairly close to the established

taste of the town or locality, a gradual change by the introduction of

some special combination may be found the best course to pursue.

* * * * *

With regard to the best Teas for blending purposes, before proceeding

to the study or preparation of any specific formulas, it will be

well for the dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that

will not blend satisfactorily as well as those that will assimilate

successfully with each other. In this case it is much easier to

describe the negative side first, as Teas that will not be improved

are certain to be injured by blending. One of the best rules to act

upon as a guide to successful Tea blending is not to allow unclean or

damaged Teas--even in the smallest quantities--to be introduced into

any blend. This rule should be as rigidly adhered to in the common or

low-priced blends as in the choice or high-grade ones, because never

for a moment should it be forgotten by the dealer that if not improved

Teas are certain to be deteriorated by blending, particularly by the

introduction of inferior Teas. For this reason it may be well for him

to consider the grade of Tea that will combine satisfactorily as well

as that will not assimilate successfully with each other, as even

though all the other Teas composing a blend be well selected and well

arranged, the presence of a single damaged or inferior Tea will be

found to taste through it.

* * * * *

All Ankois and Amoy Oolongs described by the trade as “herby” or

“weedy,” and sometimes as “woody” Teas, should be rejected altogether,

as should ever so small a quantity of these weedy Ankois be introduced

into a blend the entire combination will be irretrievably spoiled. All

“dusty,” “musty,” “stemmy,” tainted or otherwise damaged Foochow and

Formosa Oolongs should also be avoided by the successful Tea-blender,

as they will be certain to permeate and destroy any combination into

which they are introduced, no matter how small the quantity. And all

“musty,” “mousey,” “minty,” and “stemmy” Congou and Souchong Teas, as

well as all artificially-made and spurious Scented Teas, must also be

shunned.

* * * * *

All Pingsuey, Canton, artificially-colored, and what are known in trade

as Country Green Teas, should be tabooed altogether, as they invariably

detract from any blend in which they may be used. If cheap Green Teas

must be had for blending, the surest policy is to select a true Moyune

Hyson or Twankay of low grade for the purpose, as the commonest kinds

of the latter will give better satisfaction in any combination of Teas

than the finest of the former sorts. And all artificially-colored Japan

Teas, as well as all those of a “fishy,” “brassy” or metallic flavor

must be avoided in blending, as they, too, destroy the good qualities

of the finer Teas forming the blend. And all old, sour or otherwise

tainted India, Ceylon and Java Teas in particular, should not, under

any circumstances, be handled by the would-be successful Tea blender,

as there is neither profit in them for the dealer nor satisfaction to

the consumer. In brief, select only good, clean sweet-drawing Teas for

all blending purposes, as it pays best in the end.

* * * * *

The chief characteristics which distinguish fine Teas may be summed up

in the following sequence, viz.: choice Amoy Oolongs are “full-bodied

and toasty” in flavor. Foochows are “rich and mellow.” Formosas are

“fragrant and aromatic.” Fine Green Teas are “sparkling and pungent

in liquor,” while Congous are “fruity” in flavor and Souchongs are

slightly “tarry.” Choice Japans of all makes are light in draw and

what is known as “mealy” in flavor, while Indias are what is known as

“malty” and Ceylons “toasty.” Scented Teas are “piquant” and possess

what is technically termed a “bouquet,” but all Java Teas usually turn

sour or rancid in a very brief time after being once opened and exposed

to the atmosphere.

BLACK TEA BLENDS.

Formula No. 1.

For a low-priced Tea suitable for restaurant and general trade

where a cheap, heavy-bodied and strong-flavored liquor is the main

consideration:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Ning-chow Congou @ .14

10 Amoy Oolong @ .12

----

Average cost .13

In the Oolong, which forms the base of this blend, a little coarseness

may be tolerated, but “herby” and “weedy” Teas must be avoided, as

what pungency is required is supplied by the Congou, which must,

however, be free from any suspicion of oldness or staleness, and if not

sufficiently heavy, the addition of one part of Broken-leaf Assam will

supply this defect.

No. 2.

Another low-priced blend is composed as follows:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Oonfa Congou @ .20

8 Mohea Oolong @ .16

----

Average cost .16-1/2

No. 3.

For a low-priced to a fair grade Tea-blend the following combination

has been found satisfactory in a mining or manufacturing district,

where a full, heavy, substantial Tea is required:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moning Congou @ .20

2 Amoy Oolong @ .20

7 Foochow Oolong @ .20

----

Average cost .20

This combination yields a dark-colored, heavy-bodied, “grippy”

beverage, one that will stand a second drawing and still be strong and

flavory.

No. 4.

Intended for same class of trade if former should not adequately

please:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Foochow Oolong @ .18

2 Kaisow Congou @ .20

10 Ning-yong Oolong @ .16

----

Average cost .19

The Ning-yong in this combination should be clean and as sweet-drawing

as can be had for the price, and the Congou as high-toasted as

possible. If not sufficiently heavy or pungent, the addition of one

pound Broken-leaf Assam will improve it in this respect wonderfully.

No. 5.

For a fair to medium blend, a combination like the following will be

found to give almost universal satisfaction in any locality where a

full-ripe round liquor and high flavor is in demand:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Ning-chow Congou @ .30

2 Foochow Oolong @ .24

2 Formosa Oolong @ .24

----

Average cost .24-1/4

The Foochow Oolong in this combination while possessing a full body is

not sufficiently flavory to tone-up the combination, the Formosa Oolong

is added for this purpose, the Congou giving character to the whole.

No. 6.

To obtain a grippy Tea, one that will stand a second drawing and

still possess sufficient body and flavor to please, the following is

suggested:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Foochow Oolong @ .15

3 Formosa Oolong @ .20

5 Kaisow Congou @ .24

----

Average cost .21

No. 7.

A blend similar to the following will be found to give very general

satisfaction at all times and in all sections, being full rich, and

strong, yet withal smooth and pleasing to the average taste and

entirely dissimilar to any single variety in common use:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moning Congou @ .30

1 Basket-fired Japan @ .30

8 Formosa Oolong @ .30

----

Average cost .30

A fair Nankin Moyune Tea may be substituted for the Japan when Green

Tea is required in the combination, or, better still, added to it in

such cases.

No. 8.

A very serviceable Tea that will yield a rich, heavy-bodied pungent

liquor, much admired by Irish or English tea consumers, is composed as

follows:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

3 Formosa Oolong @ .30

3 Pekoe-tipped Assam @ .30

----

Average cost .30

In this combination the Assam is introduced to add strength to the

piquancy of the Formosa, both forming a full-bodied, fragrant Tea in

conjunction.

No. 9.

The appended blend yields a clear, strong, bright infusion, rich and

fragrant in flavor and pleasing in aroma, for those who desire an

all-black Tea.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Assam Pekoe @ .30

3 Basket-fired Japan @ .24

5 Formosa Oolong @ .30

10 Foochow Oolong @ .26

----

Average cost .27

The Oolongs in this combination lack body and pungency, which the

addition of the Assam imparts, the Japan giving the necessary fragrance.

No. 10.

The following blend has been found to give almost universal

satisfaction in a neighborhood composed chiefly of a working class and

to Tea drinkers generally, costing much less than any single variety

possessing the same cup qualities:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

5 Foochow Oolong @ .20

5 Sun-dried Japan @ .20

5 Assam Souchong @ .20

----

Average cost .20

No. 11.

If the trade be a professional one, a blend like the following will be

found to suit the most fastidious taste:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moyune Young Hyson @ .40

4 Choice Foochow Oolong @ .40

5 Choice Formosa Oolong @ .40

----

Average cost .40

No. 12.

When a particularly rich, full-bodied aromatic-flavored Tea is required

to please a taste otherwise difficult to suit, the appended formula is

recommended.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Choicest Foochow Oolong @

3 Choicest Ceylon Pekoe @

5 Choicest Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 13.

Another combination like the following that is unique in itself, the

flavor being unlike that of any single variety grown.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

5 Basket-fired Japan @

10 Foochow Oolong @

10 Moyune Young Hyson @

----

Average cost

But if still not of sufficient strength, add one part of fine Moning or

Kaisow Congou to tone it up.

No. 14.

The three most satisfactory and attractive blends in Black Teas,

however, are composed as follows, which may be divided into Choice,

Extra Choice and Choicest, and are warranted to suit any taste or

section of the country, in addition to the fact that the dealer need

not carry too many kinds for their preparation.

No. 15.

CHOICE.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Kaisow Congou @ .30

8 Foochow Oolong @ .30

----

Average cost .30

No. 16.

EXTRA CHOICE.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Moning Congou @ .35

2 Basket-fired Japan @ .35

6 Foochow Oolong @ .35

----

Average cost, .35

No. 17.

CHOICEST.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Fine Ning-chow Congou @ .40

2 Fine Basket-fired Japan @ .40

6 Fine Formosa Oolong @ .40

----

Average cost, .40

* * * * *

Ning-chow is one of the best of the Moning Congou Teas for blending

purposes; the finer grades being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The dried

leaf is small, evenly curled and grayish-black in color, while the

infused leaf is of a bright-brown color with a tendency to red in the

cup. The liquor is rich, ripe and full in body, and the flavor is

more delicate and aromatic than that of any of the other varieties

of Congou Tea. The medium and lower grades will also be found very

useful to the dealer, as they are heavy and strong in liquor, combining

advantageously with most of the other Teas and keeping as a general

rule much better.

* * * * *

To these may be added the following combinations.

No. 18.

FINE.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Choice Assam Pekoe @

5 Choice Foochow Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 19.

EXTRA FINE.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Ceylon Golden Pekoe @

5 Choice Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 20.

FINEST.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

5 Choicest Foochow Oolong @

5 Choicest Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

In the general run of trade these grades are unmatchable at any price,

and may be termed the perfection of Tea at their respective prices,

suiting any and all tastes.

GREEN TEA BLENDS.

In Green Tea blends the combinations are limited, being chiefly

confined to.

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

3 Sun-dried Japan @ .20

3 Moyune Young Hyson @ .24

----

Average cost, .22

No. 2.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

3 Pan-fired Japan @ .20

7 Moyune Imperial @ .30

----

Average cost, .27

No. 3.

And for a very low-priced Tea of this order the best results are

obtainable from a combination composed of:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

5 Japan Nibs @ .15

5 Moyune Hyson @ .15

----

Average cost, .15

In this latter blend, if the Hyson is scarce and difficult to secure,

a good, clean, sweet-drawing Twankay or Hyson-skin will answer the

purpose.

No. 4.

Two other good combinations are formed as follows when an all Imperial

and all Young Hyson is required:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Moyune Imperial @

2 Tienke Imperial @

6 Taiping Imperial @

----

Average cost

No. 5.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Nankin Young Hyson @

2 Tienke Young Hyson @

6 Fy-chow Young Hyson @

----

Average cost

GREEN AND BLACK TEA BLENDS.

Green and Black Tea blends are mostly composed of parts Oolongs and

Imperials, the other varieties, such as Congous, Souchongs, India and

Ceylons, being considered as entirely too strong in combination with

the already pungent Green Teas.

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moyune Imperial @ .18

4 Amoy Oolong @ .15

----

Average cost .15-1/2

No. 2.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Choice Moyune Imperial @ .30

8 Choice Foochow Oolong @ .28

----

Average cost .28-1/2

No. 3.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Moyune Young Hyson @ .30

4 Choice Formosa Oolong @ .30

----

Average cost .30

No. 4.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Moyune Young Hyson @ .40

4 Choicest Foochow Oolong @ .40

4 Choicest Formosa Oolong @ .40

----

Average cost .40

No. 5.

Is a combination that is considered quite unique in itself by many

Tea-drinkers.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

5 Sun-dried Japan @

10 Moyune Young Hyson @

10 Choice Foochow Oolong @

----

Average cost

In China Green Teas Moyunes will be found the most valuable and

satisfactory for all blending purposes, the finer grades particularly

yielding a rich straw-colored liquor, very delicate and aromatic in

flavor, and at the same time possessing a pungency somewhat resembling

that of a choice Formosa Oolong in character.

CHINA AND JAPAN TEA BLENDS.

The following blends cannot be surpassed or even matched in strength

and flavor by any tea of either kind when used alone:--

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Ning-chow Congou @

2 Basket-fired Japan @

5 Foochow Oolong @

5 Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 2.

The appended formula makes a splendid cup of Tea for such consumers as

may desire an all black blend:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moning Congou @

1 Basket-fired Japan @

8 Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 3.

A blend like the following will be found to give very general

satisfaction, being rich, full and strong, yet piquant and pleasing and

entirely foreign to any other Tea in general use:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Pan-fired Japan @

1 Moyune Imperial @

6 Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 4.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Sun-dried Japan @

2 Basket-fired Japan @

6 Foochow Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 5.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moning Congou @

1 Basket-fired Japan @

1 Moyune Imperial @

3 Foochow Oolong @

4 Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

In addition to these a blend composed of equal parts of a medium grade

Pan-fired Japan and a plain dark-drawing Foochow Oolong forms an

excellent combination at a moderate price. And a fair Pakeong Young

Hyson and a choice Sun-dried Japan yields an excellent liquor for those

desiring an all Green Tea blend.

INDIA AND CHINA TEA BLENDS.

In the appended combinations only from three to four component parts

are given for each blend, as the dealer should not attempt to mix more

of these sorts until he has become thoroughly acquainted with their

peculiarities or educated his trade up to their use:--

No. 1.

Intended for a very low-priced tea.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Common Moning Congou @ .15

2 Common Kaisow Congou @ .15

2 Broken-leaf Assam @ .15

----

Average cost .15

This is a good combination where the water is hard, as it is in many

sections of the country, the sweetness of the Moning and briskness of

the Kaisow being unequalled for all low-priced blends.

No. 2

Is another excellent combination, answering the same purpose:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Saryune Congou @

1 Paklin Congou @

3 Assam Congou @

----

Average cost

Strength not appearance should be the test of the Teas forming this

blend, and if Assam Souchong is cheaper it may be used to better

advantage.

No. 3

Is composed of

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Suey-kut Congou @

1 Lapsing Souchong @

3 Rough Pungent Assam @

----

Average cost

A fine Kintuck or Kiukiang Congou may be used with equal advantage in

this blend if the Suey-kut is difficult to obtain.

No. 4.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Paklin Congou @

2 Ning-chow Congou @

2 Darjeeling Souchong @

----

Average cost

The chief feature of this combination is its delicacy of flavor,

the Paklin imparting a deep rich color to the liquor, the Ning-chow

enriching the flavor, and the Darjeeling adding weight and strength to

the entire blend.

No. 5

Makes a very good medium-priced Tea, one nearly always sure of

appreciation among a foreign population:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Fruity Moning Congou @

1 Souchong-flavored Kaisow @

3 Pungent Cachar Souchong @

----

Average cost

The latter must be strong and grippy in order to give strength and

fullness to the other component parts of this combination.

* * * * *

In the blending of India Teas alone the best results are obtained

from a combination of equal parts of the Assam, Cachar and Darjeeling

sorts, a good plan being to mix three to five of these Teas together. A

leading and popular blend is composed of a strong, thick Assam, a brisk

and pungent Cachar, with a ripe, juicy Deradoon and a fine flavored

Darjeeling or soft character Kangra to impart a distinctive feature to

the combination.

INDIA, CHINA AND JAPAN BLENDS.

In the blending of India, China and Japan Teas the dealer must use

extreme caution, as the combining of these varieties is comparatively

a new departure among American Tea consumers.

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Assam Pekoe @

1 Formosa Oolong @

3 Basket-fired Japan @

10 Foochow Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 2.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

5 Assam Souchong @

5 Foochow Oolong @

5 Sun-dried Japan @

----

Average cost

No. 3.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moning Congou @

2 Assam Souchong @

7 Foochow Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 4.

The annexed combination has proven to be a very popular Tea in many

sections of Philadelphia and vicinity:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Pan-fired Japan @

1 Moyune Imperial @

1 Choice Assam @

6 Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 5.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Broken-leaf Assam @

2 Kaisow Congou @

10 Ning-yong Oolong @

----

Average cost

In this latter combination both the Ning-yong and Kaisow Congou must

be clean; that is, as free from dust as possible at the price, and

fairly heavy in body. The Assam being added to impart tone, character

and flavor to the whole, it should be fresh and strong, and while a

little coarseness may be tolerated in it, an earthy-flavored one must

be avoided.

INDIA AND CEYLON BLENDS.

The blending of India and Ceylon Teas is chiefly confined to equal

parts of each. The lower grades being generally composed of Broken-leaf

and Fannings.

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Ceylon Pekoe @

8 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @

----

Average cost

No. 2.

An excellent blend of these varieties is composed of

Parts. Varieties. Price.

5 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @

5 Ceylon Pekoe-Souchong @

----

Average cost

This combination will please the most fastidious drinkers of these

Teas.

No. 3.

Makes a very pleasing Tea for consumers who prefer these growths to any

other.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Ceylon Silver-Pekoe @

2 Ceylon Golden-Pekoe @

6 India Pekoe-Souchong @

----

Average cost

Broken-leaf India and Ceylon Teas are especially useful for all

blending purposes, and a judicious use of these grades--of say two

parts to ten of the other kinds--will often give the dealer an

advantage of from four to six cents per pound in addition to greatly

improving the blend, more particularly when the other Teas are leafy

and free from dust. But all low-grade India and Ceylon Teas that

possess a burnt, baked, sour or raw flavor, must be avoided.

INDIA, CHINA AND CEYLON BLENDS.

In all combinations of India, Ceylon and China Teas the average

quantity of the former kinds used should be from one-fifth to one-sixth.

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Ceylon Souchong @

1 Assam Souchong @

5 China Souchong @

----

Average cost

No. 2.

A blend like the following will be found to yield a strong, rich and

fragrant infusion for customers desiring Ceylon and India Teas:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Assam Pekoe @

1 Choice Ceylon Souchong @

5 Choice Formosa Oolong @

----

Average cost

No. 3.

But if a rich, heavy-bodied and aromatic Tea is required to please a

taste difficult to suit, the appended formula is recommended:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 Ceylon Pekoe @

2 Assam Souchong @

6 Foochow Oolong @

----

Average cost

The Oolong used in this formula must possess pungency and high-flavor,

the addition of the Ceylon imparting a “toastiness,” the Assam

furnishing “maltiness” and strength to the entire combination.

* * * * *

For a very cheap Tea a low-priced Mohea Oolong and Broken-leaf Assam,

both costing about 15 cents, and blended in equal proportions, cannot

be excelled by any single Tea at 30 cents when used alone. This

combination gives better satisfaction to Tea-drinkers of this grade and

costs much less.

SCENTED TEA BLENDS.

Among English and Scotch Tea consumers Scented Teas are used very

largely in nearly all combinations, and more especially in those of the

lower-priced blends; but where this is done it is always best to use

only Moning Congous for the foundation Tea of the blend, as Scented

Teas combine far better with Monings than with Kaisows. One of the

most common errors in Tea blending, however, is that a certain large

portion of Scented Teas, when combined with any other variety--no

matter how flat, rough or astringent the latter may be--will make a

blend not only palatable but pleasing. This is an illusion, as Scented

Teas of themselves cannot master or overpower commonness or supply

lack of strength to any Tea or Teas which does not already possess

it. But while it is admitted that a small quantity may improve any

blend, if too freely or injudiciously used it will make the combination

thin, and, in addition, unless the Scented Tea has been well selected,

the blend will probably taste heavy in the cup. When Scented Caper

is used too freely in a blend special care must be taken to obtain

a very heavy-bodied Tea for the foundation, it being best to add

thick-liquoring Indias, as otherwise a too plentiful use of Caper will

make the infusion thin and bitter.

No. 1.

For use only in Scented Tea districts or among Irish, English and

Scotch Tea consumers.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Moning Congou @

1 Assam Souchong @

1 Scented Caper @

----

Average cost

Should this combination be too light in draw, two pounds or parts of

the Congou may be used or the Assam increased half a pound or part.

No. 2.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1/4 Scented Flowery Pekoe @

1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @

4 Saryune Congou @

----

Average cost

In this combination the Assam must be strong and pungent and the Congou

selected for its sweetness and briskness, and both free from coarseness

and should be neither thin or sour.

No. 3.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1/4 Scented Orange Pekoe @

1 Padrae Souchong @

2 Assam Souchong @

2 Moning Souchong @

----

Average cost

This combination is of great strength and intended only for those who

prefer a heavy dark-liquored Tea, as it is much too strong to please

the average taste.

No. 4.

The following combinations are very popular among English Tea consumers

in this country, and will be found to suit the average taste for

scented Tea-blends.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Formosa Oolong @

1 Orange Pekoe @

2 Assam Pekoe @

2 China Souchong @

4 Kaisow Congou @

6 Moning Congou @

----

Average cost

The base or foundation of this blend, as will be noticed, is composed

of Moning Congou, the Souchong enriching it, and the Kaisow being added

to give it the requisite flavor, the Pekoe imparting aroma, and the

Oolong smoothness, while the Assam adds body, sharpness and pungency to

the whole.

No. 5.

Another very similar scented Tea-blend that may be prepared cheaper,

but which will not prove quite as satisfactory, is composed as

follows:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Foochow Oolong @

1 Orange Pekoe @

1 Scented Caper @

2 Assam Congou @

2 China Souchong @

6 Kaisow Congou @

6 Moning Congou @

----

Average cost

The Moning Congou forming the base of this combination not possessing

the strength and flavor of these used in the first, an extra quantity

of Assam is required to tone them up. The equal proportion of Kaisow

imparting a richer flavor as well as toning down the high toast of the

Assam used in it, the Pekoe giving an aroma or “bouquet” to the entire

blend.

ENGLISH TEA BLENDS.

Blended Teas are the rule in England, where the skillful mixing of

Teas has become a science; very little, if any, Tea being sold to

consumers in its original state, every dealer, both wholesale and

retail, being noted for or identified with some unique or particularly

flavored blend of Tea. The majority of these combinations, although

markedly distinct and differing widely in flavor and almost opposite

in character, are skillfully combined, the greatest care being taken

that no Tea is introduced into a blend that may act detrimentally upon

the others forming the combination, which proves that no matter how

great the divergence in the Teas whenever knowledge and judgment is

brought to bear on the subject success is sure to follow. And, again,

that, although most of the combinations are exceedingly popular, there

is still ample room for the introduction of new ones as well as for

improvement on those in use at present. But the knowledge and skill

displayed by English Tea dealers in this particular branch of their

business is only attained by frequent tests and experiments, that

is, by generally mixing together from three to five samples of Tea

differing in variety, grade and character, and alternately changing

and substituting the qualities and quantities until they eventually

succeed in producing a Tea at a more moderate price, identified with

themselves, and more satisfactory to their customers, in addition to

differing in every respect from the Teas offered by their competitors.

No. 1.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Fruity Moning Congou @

1 Fine Ceylon Congou @

1 Fine Assam Congou @

1 Fine Scented Caper @

----

Average cost

The Moning should be thick and heavy in liquor and also the Ceylon,

while the Caper must be highly scented.

No. 2.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Oopack Congou @

1 Ceylon Congou @

1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @

1 China Scented Caper @

----

Average cost

In this blend the Oopack must not be thin, “woody” or old, while the

Caper should be selected more for its high scent and strength rather

than its style. The Ceylon Congou heavy in draw and the Pekoe-Souchong

strong and pungent.

No. 3.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Ceylon Congou @

1 Ning-chow Congou @

1 Broken-leaf Assam @

1 Darjeeling Souchong @

----

Average cost

The Ceylon Congou should be heavy and strong, the Ning-chow round and

full, the Assam pungent and the Darjeeling possess as much character as

possible at the price.

No. 4.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Chingwo Congou @

1 Ceylon Souchong @

1 Darjeeling Pekoe-Souchong @

1 Assam Orange Pekoe @

----

Average cost

The Chingwo must be first crop if obtainable, and the Ceylon thin,

while the Indias should be rich, ripe and free from all coarseness.

No. 5

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Oonfa Congou @

1 Kaisow Congou @

1 Darjeeling Pekoe @

1 Assam Souchong @

1 Ceylon Golden-Pekoe @

----

Average cost

In this combination the Congous must be full and rich, and if a little

“tarry” in flavor the better, but must not be old or sour.

No. 6.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Kintuck Congou @

1 Ceylon Congou @

1 China Flowery Pekoe @

1 Assam Orange Pekoe @

1 Darjeeling Pekoe-Souchong @

----

Average cost

Both the Congous must be first crop or of good grade, the China Pekoe

highly scented and the India Pekoes thick in liquor and pungent in

flavor.

No. 7.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Oonfa Congou @

1 Chingwo Congou @

1 Foochow Oolong @

1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @

1 China Scented Caper @

----

Average cost

All tarriness and sourness must be avoided in the Congous, the Foochow

heavy-bodied and the Caper full-scented, while the India must be of

high grade and strength.

No. 8.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Kaisow Congou @

1 Moning Congou @

1 China Orange Pekoe @

1 Assam Orange Pekoe @

1 Darjeeling Orange Pekoe @

----

Average cost

The Moning must be light and fragrant, the Kaisow, Souchong-flavored,

the Assam full and rich, the Darjeeling fairly pungent and of good

quality, while the China Pekoe should be very high scented.

No. 9.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Kaisow Congou @

1 Ning-chow Congou @

1 Lapsing Souchong @

1 Ceylon Orange Pekoe @

1 Assam Orange Pekoe @

----

Average cost

In this combination the Congous should be fairly thick and fruity, the

Souchong heavy and a little “tarry,” the Ceylon smooth and the India

pungent in liquor.

No. 10.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Ning-chow Congou @

1 Chingwo Congou @

2 Darjeeling Pekoe @

6 Broken-leaf Assam @

or

6 Broken-leaf Ceylon @

----

Average cost

* * * * *

Many of the Tea-blends in use in England, although differing widely

in liquor and flavor, are most skillfully combined, the greatest

caution being taken that no Tea is introduced in them that may in any

way act detrimentally upon any of the other Teas forming the blend.

As stated above, the majority of these English blends are markedly

distinct in cup-qualities, in fact, almost diametrically opposite, the

chief feature of one being a rich, ripe Tea, that of another being

an even-leafed, delicate-flavored Tea, while the foundation of the

third is composed of a plain grade, to which is added a rough, coarse

or broken Tea, in order to increase its body or give point to the

combination, a small quantity of some good, sweet, low-priced kind

being frequently introduced to reduce the cost. Again, after the

English Tea dealer has once succeeded in producing a popular flavored

Tea, he is most careful to keep the component parts of the blend as

uniform as possible, and never permits even his employees to know of

what Teas his combination is formed. He thus becomes celebrated for

keeping a flavor and character of Tea that cannot be procured elsewhere

at any price, and when once his customers becomes educated to that

especial flavor they are sure to return again and again for it.

RUSSIAN TEA BLENDS.

The Russians, who are a nation of Tea drinkers and use as much tea per

head as the Chinese themselves, consume principally China Souchongs

and the better grades of Congous, their blends and combinations being

chiefly composed of these varieties, so that in sections populated with

Russians, Russian Jews and Poles the appended specimens will suffice

for their use:--

No. 1.

Intended for a cheap, strong, full-bodied Tea is composed of

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Common Moning Congou @

1 Common Kaisow Congou @

3 Common Lapsing Souchong @

----

Average cost

No. 2.

A good, heavy-bodied medium Tea is formed as follows:--

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Padrae Congou @

1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @

3 Lapsing Souchong @

----

Average cost

No. 3.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 Kaisow Congou @

1 Ning-chow Congou @

1 China Orange Pekoe @

3 Lapsing Souchong @

----

Average cost

No. 4.

Latterly, however, India and Ceylons are coming more into use in this

country with this class of trade, so that combinations of China, India

and Ceylons, such as the following, are very popular among them.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

2 India Congou @

4 Lapsing Souchong @

4 Ceylon Souchong @

----

Average cost

No. 5.

Parts. Varieties. Price.

1 India Souchong @

1 Ceylon Souchong @

6 Lapsing Souchong @

----

Average cost

In Russia the Samovar, or tea pot, is always steaming, and the natives

never cease drinking tea while there is water left to prepare it.

It is served at all hours of the day, in palace as well as hovel;

shops abound for its sale in all the principal cities, all business

transactions being made and sealed over steaming goblets of Tea.

But however great the number or wide the divergence in the liquors

and flavors of the combinations here given, wherever knowledge and

judgment is brought to bear on the subject, success is sure to follow

the efforts of the dealer; and although the majority of the foregoing

blends have been found exceedingly good by actual experience, there is

still ample room for other combinations by the progressive Tea-blender

as well as for great improvements upon those that are presented here.

RULES FOR SUCCESSFUL TEA BLENDING.

The great art of successful Tea blending consists in the combining of

quality, strength, pungency with some particular liquor and distinct

flavor so as to please the greatest number of consumers for whom the

blend is intended, and at the same time to arrange the component parts

in such a manner that this result may be attained at the smallest

possible cost to the dealer. In order to accomplish this object

three important points are necessary: (1.) The dealer must study to

understand the tastes and preferences of his customers for whom the

blend is to be prepared. (2.) He must learn to know which varieties and

grades of Tea that will combine best to please this taste, and (3.) He

must learn to know how far the component parts of each blend can be

varied when required without seriously affecting its uniformity, so

that he may be the better enabled to take advantage of the cheapness of

any special grade of Tea in the market.

* * * * *

In the blending of China Congous it will be found most desirable to

avoid the mixing of Teas of a heavy, strong or coarse description, such

as “Red-Leaf” Teas of the Padrae and Saryune sorts with those of a

highly flavored and delicate character, such as Monings and Chingwos,

as to blend Teas of such markedly different characters will be found

beneficial to neither. This rule also applies to Formosa Oolongs and

the Congou sorts, as the briskness of the lower and livelier Tea

is marred by the softness of the more delicate and flavory Tea in

the combination, while the body of the former will be spoiled by the

delicacy of the latter.

* * * * *

The importance of retaining all blends regular and uniform--when

once they have been adopted and proven satisfactory--cannot be

overestimated, as what Tea dealer can expect continued success if

his blends consist one week or month of fine, flavory Teas, the next

of heavy, dull-liquored Teas, and the third of a sharp, pungent or

astringent character? Each new combination may possess good qualities

of its own, all its component parts be skillfully and judiciously

arranged and the mixing performed with the greatest care, but unless

one or more good blends is decided on and then closely adhered to

complaints will be made by the customers if they do not go elsewhere.

To obtain this necessary uniformity is sometimes very difficult for

the dealer, as no two invoices of Tea will be found exactly alike in

all respects; and although Teas may be selected of about the same

grade and quality, even chosen from those grown in the same district

and blended in exactly the same proportions as in the combination they

are intended to replace, the divergence may still be so great as to

cause dissatisfaction among the customers. This variation may best be

avoided by not changing more than one of the Teas composing the blend

at the same time, so that when a number of Teas are used in a blend

the alteration of any one of them--providing that particular one is

fairly matched--will make but a comparatively small difference in the

combination. If the changes in the various Teas forming the blend are

thus made gradually, few, if any, of the customers will detect the

slight alteration in the blend.

Scoops or other measures must not be relied on in the proper blending

of Teas; _scales and weights must be invariably used_ if the dealer

wants to be precise and successful in the business. For if it is worth

his time and trouble to test a number and variety of Teas in order

that he may select the most suitable for the purpose, and then study

how to arrange them in the best and most advantageous proportions, it

certainly is worth the little extra time and trouble of not marring

the qualities of his combinations by an injudicious and hap-hazard

muddling of the quantities of the various parts composing the blends.

This advantage of _weighing_ the Teas for blending is not excelled even

by the advantages gained by the careful and judicious selection of the

Teas for blending purposes.

* * * * *

All Teas after being blended should be allowed to stand in the caddie

or bin, tightly closed, for from a week to ten days before dispensing,

in order that the different Teas composing the blends may have

sufficient time to assimilate and to exchange or impart their opposite

flavors to each other. For should they not be allowed to thus stand,

and the Tea be used just as soon as the blend is prepared, first one

and then another of its component parts will predominate in too great

a proportion, by which the time and trouble that has been taken in

arranging the blend will have been to a large extent wasted and thrown

away; while if the mixture be allowed to remain in the bin or caddie as

directed, it will eventually become as one Tea and be always regular

and uniform in quality and flavor.

* * * * *

Good, clean and sweet low-grade Teas being nearly always to be had

for a few cents per pound above the price of the cheap, trashy Teas

now offered on the American market, it is only folly for the dealer

to purchase the latter, as they are not cheap at any price, as by the

supposed saving of these few cents in the pound, the seed is not only

sown for the future ruin of the individual dealer, but it also disgusts

the public with Tea as an article of food, while on the other hand if

the Tea dealer will make a comparatively small but requisite sacrifice

for the sake of future gain, complete satisfaction will be given to his

customers, the trade in Tea will be fostered and increased, and a great

impetus given to its consumption by a discriminating public.

* * * * *

A blend of Tea should never have its cost reduced by the introduction

of a grade coarser in nature than that of a majority of the Teas

forming the combination, so that low-grade Teas when used for reducing

the cost of the blend should be as full, plain and sweet as possible.

This is advisable for the reason that a Tea of such a pronounced

character will more or less stamp its own impression upon any blend

into which it may be introduced. Again, should the lowest-priced Tea in

a blend be a Tea of a marked or inferior character, instead of its being

absorbed by the other Teas in the blend, its disagreeable features will

stand out prominently among them, while the superior qualities of the

finer grades will be--if not entirely obliterated--yet so injured as to

be scarcely recognizable. While if the component parts of the blend be

so well arranged that the most powerful Tea constituting it be also the

highest grade Tea, the effect produced is that the other Teas in it are

raised to its level, but if the powerful Tea is one of the low-priced

Teas the others naturally reduce to its standard.

Early picked or “first-crop” Teas should always be chosen when possible

to obtain for blending purposes, as first-crop Teas are always superior

to the later pickings in flavor and aroma, in the greater amount of

_Theine_ (the active principle of Tea) which they contain as well as in

their keeping qualities and blending properties, in fact, in everything

except body for which Tea is deemed valuable; but in addition to

selecting first-crop Teas for high-grade blends, it will be found

advisable each season to ascertain the district yielding the best

product, thus making quality as well as quantity the test of success,

for as with wheat and other crops the Tea crop varies considerably

according to the season, some years it is very good in one province or

district while in others it may prove a comparative failure; thus one

year a certain crop of Tea may be heavy and strong in liquor and flavor

and next thin, weak and flavorless, while other “chops” that have been

lacking in these qualities last year may possess the most desirable

qualities this year. All varieties of Tea are equally subject to

these variations, so that the advantages to be derived from a careful

utilization of the best district crops of the year with but slight

consideration will be very manifest to the dealer himself.

* * * * *

The tastes in Tea of different communities varying widely, the dealer

should study and learn the particular kind and flavor best adapted

to the district or locality in which he is doing business, as a Tea

that may suit one class of consumers will not sell at all in another,

so that the dealer himself should ascertain by repeated trials what

variety or grade of Tea best suits his own particular trade. This

object can best be accomplished by a series of experiments with the

numerous kinds of Tea, and then noting and adopting the character

and flavor of the Tea or Teas that gives the best satisfaction in

price and quality to a majority of his patrons. Before proceeding to

give formulas for any specific combinations it will be well for the

dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend

satisfactorily as well as those which will assimilate best with each

other, for it must not be forgotten for a moment by the dealer that

_Tea if not improved is certain to be injured by blending_. But it

is much easier for him to learn what Teas to avoid than what Teas to

select, and what are best adapted to his particular trade.

* * * * *

Generally in a thickly-populated manufacturing and mining district, or

among all working classes in this country, heavy-bodied, sweet-drawing

Amoy and dark-leaved, strong Foochow Oolongs will prove the most

popular Teas for the base or foundation of all blends, while in a

district composed chiefly of Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers,

Congous, Souchongs and the better grades of India and Ceylon Teas

will be found to give the best satisfaction. In neighborhoods made up

of Polish and Russian Jews, low-grade, dark-drawing, thick-liquored

Congous and Souchongs, or combinations of these two varieties alone,

will be found the most satisfactory, being known to them as Russian

Teas, from the fact that these are the only sorts used among Russian

Tea drinkers.

* * * * *

For the base of the best blends or for flavoring purposes among purely

American Tea consumers a really choice Formosa Oolong will be found an

exceedingly valuable Tea, as a small quantity of fine or even tolerably

good Formosa Tea will permeate and taste through any combination,

and most Tea drinkers, when once they become accustomed to its unique

flavor, will rarely be pleased with any other Tea afterwards. The

dried leaf of the choicer grades is small and artistically made,

yellowish-black in color, while the infused leaf is bright green and

uniform. The liquor is of a rich straw color, its value consisting in

a combination of piquancy, pungency and delicate aroma.

* * * * *

To successfully accomplish the building up of a profitable and

permanent Tea business three things are requisite: (1.) The dealer must

keep the best Teas obtainable at the most popular prices. (2.) He must

let the public know by advertising or other means that he keeps them.

(3.) It is also most important that all standard blends should possess

some distinct or characteristic flavor by which it may be readily

recognized by those who use it. But at the same time there is very

little use in advertising or making known a Tea that does not possess

intrinsic merit, as merit without some publicity makes but slow headway

in these progressive times.

* * * * *

One of the principal objects to keep in view in forming a Tea-blend

is that it will come out well in the water in which it is to be

infused; that it shall possess a flavor that will please the taste of a

majority of the customers and at the same time be of such a distinctive

character as to make the combination your own particular specialty. But

it must be borne in mind that Teas draw quite differently in hard and

soft water, and the dealer’s object should be to offer only the best

possible Tea for the money expended. He should also avoid those kinds

which are unsuitable to the water of his locality.

Soft water has a great advantage over hard in the testing and

preparation of Tea for use, so that many parts of the country possess

an advantage over others in the use of Tea, as wherever the water is

soft and pure far better results are obtained from an infusion of a

given quantity of leaves than can be produced from the hard water of

other sections. This difference arises from the now well-established

fact that soft water dissolves a greater percentage of the theine--the

active principle of Tea--than hard water, thus causing its properties

to become more apparent, the coarseness as well as fineness being

brought out to a greater extent by the action of the soft water in all

cases, and consequently the too highly-fired and brisk-burnt Teas so

much in favor in some sections of the country for low-priced blends are

not liked at all in the sections where soft water alone is to be had.

For this reason, also, Teas of the Congou and Souchong order are most

appreciated where the water is soft, as the natural delicacy of their

flavor is best extracted by soft water and in even greater proportions

than is the flavor of the other varieties known to trade.

* * * * *

In testing Teas by infusion or drawing for blending, four important

facts must be borne in mind by the dealer: (_1._) _The water used for

drawing them should be as soft and pure as can be obtained or filtered

before using._ (_2._) _It must be boiled as rapidly as possible and

used only at the boiling point, and_ (_3._) _It must be boiling, but

must not overboil_, for should it be allowed to overboil for even a

few minutes it will not extract the full strength and aroma from the

leaves. All Tea experts are most particular on these points, so much so

that they have the kettle watched in order that the water may be poured

on the Tea the moment it boils, and if any water remains in the kettle

it is immediately poured away, as the effect of using water that has

been boiled a second time is the same as that of water that has been

permitted to overboil. Should the buyer, from neglect or indifference,

use water that has not been boiled, the leaves in the cup will float

on top and not sink to the bottom as in the case of boiling water,

and should the water be overboiled or boiled a second time it will

be readily detected by its appearance in the cup, the infusion being

thin and insipid and of a peculiar, sickly color. (4.) The infusion

should be allowed to draw from four to six minutes, according to the

variety of Tea under treatment, that is, China and Japan Teas, five to

six minutes, while India, Ceylon and Java Teas require only three to

four minutes, owing to the great excess of tannin which they contain.

But all the properties of the Tea that can be dissolved in the cup is

fully extracted in from three to four minutes, five to six minutes

being generally sufficient for all Teas, as the infusion is then at

its best, but from that time on the Tea gradually loses its aroma and

flavor until, if allowed to stand for half an hour, it becomes dull and

insipid. Another important point must here be noted by the dealer, it

is that a good Tea becomes better as it cools, while a poor Tea becomes

poorer under the same conditions.

* * * * *

The leaves of a choice, pure Tea will be found, after infusion, to be

of a medium and uniform size, perfectly formed and unbroken and of a

bright-green or dark-brown, according to the kind of Tea tested, that

is, Oolongs, Green and Japan Teas will be greenish, while Congous,

Souchongs, India, Ceylon and Java Teas will be dark-brown in color. All

Teas of the Oolong varieties are subject to the same rules in judging

them, and the same rules that govern in testing Green Teas will also

apply to Japans. While the selection of Indias, Ceylons and Teas of the

China-Congou sorts are also governed by similar rules in testing and

selecting.

* * * * *

Still another important point for the dealer to keep in mind is the

necessity of securing Teas that will draw well in the water of his

district. To aid in this selection the following kinds are suggested:--

~For Very Hard Water~--Padrae, Saryune and strong, “tarry” Oonfa

Congous are best, also Indias of the Assam variety and heavy-drawing

Ceylons, including broken-leaf Pekoes are best adapted.

~For Medium Hard Water~--Flavory India Teas, including Cachars,

Darjeeling and Ceylons of all kinds, first crop Panyongs and rich,

thick, round Keemun Congous, Oolongs, Japans and Green Teas of all

grades.

~For Soft Water~--All varieties and grades of Oolong, Green, Scented

and Japan Teas, Ningchow, Paklin and Chingwo Congous, light-drawing

Indias and Ceylons of nearly all kinds as well as all descriptions of

high-flavored Teas.

Tea-blending as a fine art · 第 5 / 6 章