Part II

Bread Making

[Illustration]

BREAD-MAKING

THE TECHNOLOGY OF BREAD-MAKING

Trades of every description have during recent years advanced by leaps

and bounds toward betterment and improvement.

Inventions and discoveries of most important nature and of stupendous

results have from time to time amazed the human mind and thought.

Hand in hand with inventions and mechanical devices used in the trades

are step by step reaching greater perfection, simplifying and affording

more accurate results of attaining standards of excellence in finished

products.

Professor Liebig once said the baking industry is one in which new

methods and inventions would be very difficult of introduction, and

possibly in his time he may have been right.

The reason therefore may be attributed to the disinclination of the

baker of that time to break away from fixed habits, partially, as well

as lack of interest manifested by the general public in the production

of a commodity so necessary to human sustenance.

But all this has been changed. During the last twenty years the

progress made in the baking industry in mechanical contrivances, newer

practical method of hydrating doughs, and as well as the great advance

made in the study of fermentation, have assumed such vast proportions

so as to place this craft on equal footing with any other trade as

regards progressiveness.

The watchword for the future then is “more progress,” “more

convenience,” “more perfection.”

With this idea in mind, these series of talks have been undertaken,

hoping that they may impress the baker as to his responsibilities, and

that they might stimulate in him a desire to acquire a greater and

more detailed knowledge of the technical points connected with his

trade. The bakery of to-day supplies man with that important foodstuff,

“Bread,” rightfully called “The staff of life.”

What other trade is there in existence that can boast of any higher

ideal than this?

Pre-eminently, then, the desire should be instilled in every baker to

equip himself with the knowledge of how to bring his product to such

a state of perfection so that it will absolutely measure up to the

standard of its title, _The Staff of Life_.

There are various branches of baking. Bread, cake, pastry and

cracker baking. In these talks bread and the materials entering into

bread-making only will be discussed.

Raw Materials for the Bread Baker.

In the bread baking the principal materials used are flour, water,

yeast, salt, milk, oil, lard, sugar and yeast foods.

I.—Flour and Milling.

A. _The moisture of flour._ Into a glass retort place some flour, taken

at random from the stock on hand. Attach to the neck of the retort a

glass flask, seeing to it that the connection is airtight (Fig. 1).

Heat the flour over a bunson burner gently until brown. Moisture will

soon show itself, accumulating at the colder portions of the flask. The

neck of the retort should be kept cool with wet cloths. In this manner

all the water contained in the flour will be found in the flask.

_Ordinary dry flour contains from 8 to 18 per cent of moisture, and

averages 13 per cent._

B. _Gluten contents of flour._—Knead some wheat flour with water into

a dough. Lay it aside under cover for fifteen minutes; then place it in

a very fine sieve and let a stream of water flow over it, working the

dough all the time, until the draining becomes clear, which should be

retained for further testing.

There will remain on the sieve a yellowish gray tough mass.

This is the _gluten_ which imparts strength to the flour. _Good sound

wheat flour contains 10 to 12 per cent. of gluten._

The gluten of wheat flour swells considerably in water, but is not

soluble.

In the dry state it is horny and brittle.

When moist it soon ferments and quickly putrifies.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.]

Gluten is classified as an albuminoid, but is not soluble in either

a weak or concentrated acetic acid solution. When boiled in a soda

solution it becomes partially soluble.

On account of this characteristic it is closely allied to those

albuminoids known as fibrin, which is found in large proportions in

animal blood. In contrast to blood-fibrin gluten may be said to be

vegetable-fibrin.

The gluten of wheat flour is not a simple body, therefore not an

element, but is composed of four varieties of albuminoids: vegetable

albumin, vegetable casein, vegetable fibrin and gluten itself.

A marked difference exists in the gluten of rye flour. It is difficult

to wash it out. It forms a sticky gray mass and is composed of three

varieties of albuminoids—vegetable albumin, vegetable casein and

vegetable fibrin. Gluten itself is missing.

These three varieties of albuminoids are contained in much greater

proportion than in wheat flour, but the total albuminous matter in both

wheat and rye flour are contained in about equal proportions.

C. _The starches of flour._ The wash water which has been preserved

from the gluten washing test will at first appear to be milky, but

gradually becomes clarified. On the bottom of dish the starch which has

come away from the flour with the wash water will be precipitated as a

fine white powder.

_The proportion of starch in both wheat and rye flour is almost equal.

The average is 64 per cent._ Fine or soft flour contains more starch

than hard or coarse flour.

_Properties of starch._ Take a small quantity of the starch previously

obtained from the flour and mix it with water until just milky. Place a

drop of the starch water on a clean microscopic slide and put a cover

glass over it and gently press it down. In placing the prepared slide

under the microscope the starch cells are seen to be fairly round or

slightly oval, of various sizes (Fig. 2). A little off the center a

bitum is observed.

The “bitum” is a sort of nucleus or spot which is the center around

which the concentric rings of starch are arranged.

If by chance some of the starch properties be resting on their narrow

surface they will appear elongated. Each starch particle represents

a cell. The interior of the cell contains the starch proper, and is

surrounded by an external coating of very delicate fibrin or cellulose.

In old samples of flour the starch shows cracks and fissures.

The starch of rye flour is but slightly different (Fig. 3), and is

difficult to tell it apart from wheat starch. The particles of sound

rye starch are a trifle larger.

The starch of potatoes (Fig. 4) has a peculiar pear-shaped formation

with very distinct bitum and concentric rings.

The properties of the starches given should enable the baker or student

with the aid of the microscope to detect any foreign starch which may

have been added to flour as an adulterant.

Mix a little starch with water and divide the mixture equally in two

beakers.

[Illustration: Fig. 2.]

[Illustration: Fig. 3.]

[Illustration: Fig. 4.]

Heat one portion to the boiling point; the starch then forms with the

water, a thick, gelatinous, somewhat semi-clear liquid. The boiling

causes the interior of the cell to swell, thereby bursting the

cellulose envelopes.

The structure of the starch cell has been completely disrupted. The

starch becomes gelatinized.

In the other beaker after a little while the raw starch precipitates.

It has completely separated itself in its original form from the water.

Upon stirring the contents of the beaker violently the starch grains do

not lose their original character, but simply remain suspended for a

time in the water.

When baking bread the gelatinization of the starch does not take place,

because the albuminoids of the flour regulated by the heat envelopes

the liberated starch after its cellulose cavern has become disrupted,

and in consequence prohibits the gelatinization of the starch.

Dilute some of gelatinized starch with water, pour some of it into a

test tube and add a drop of tincture of iodine; the cold solution will

at once turn a deep blue. Heat the liquid gently to boiling point; the

blue coloring will gradually disappear; upon cooling the liquid it

again turns blue.

The action of tincture of iodine at low temperature is so intensive

that the smallest particles of starch contained in any substance can be

detected by its use. By means of tincture of iodine starch adulteration

in compressed yeasts may be detected.

Water poured on a lump of starch is rapidly absorbed. Starch is very

hygroscopic, that is, absorbs moisture readily, and furthermore,

retains the absorbed moisture tenaciously. Hence flour will absorb

moisture from the atmosphere. A high percentage of moisture in flour

is conducive of putrifying of the gluten and albumin of the flour,

rendering the flour unfit for use.

Into a small pan, which has been lightly greased, to prevent sticking,

heat while constantly stirring some starch flour. It will turn brown;

that is, it has been converted into dextrin. Pure dextrin is soluble

in water and is largely used as a substitute for gum arabic. The same

conversion occurs in bread, as the starch in the exterior of the loaf

is changed into dextrin by the high temperature of the oven and forms

the crust of the loaf.

_Constituents of starch._ Starch is composed of the three

elements—Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen. The composition of starch is the

same as sugar. It contains the same proportions of hydrogen and oxygen

as is contained in water, namely, in proportions of 2-1 (H_{2}O).

Therefore starch is a hydrate, and as these water-forming elements are

combined with carbon it is called carbohydrate.

To this group of bodies, besides starch, dextrin, all kinds of sugar

and cellulose are classified.

D. _Albumen contents of flour._ In a flask place 20 oz. of wheat flour

and saturate with 100 oz. of cold water; shake up vigorously several

times during one-half hour. Then let the flask stand for some time,

after which pour the clear liquid obtained carefully into a filter

paper arranged in a funnel.

This clear filtrate is placed in a beaker and heated in a water bath to

the boiling point. The clear filtrate will become turbid flocculent.

These flakes are caused by a substance which is soluble in cold water

and which evaporates upon being heated. This substance is albumin. The

albumin of flour is of the same composition as the white of an egg, and

is classified under the albuminoids. Wheat flour contains 1.5 per cent.

of albumin.

E. _Extractive matter of flour._ After concluding above experiment,

filter the coagulated mixture. Place the clear filtrate in an

evaporating dish and drive off the moisture by placing the dish in

a steam bath. After some time the water will have been driven off,

leaving a solid residue in the dish. This residue contains sugar,

dextrin, a gum-like substance, and a small quantity of mineral salts,

principally potassium phosphate.

Albuminous substances all contain the four elements—carbon, hydrogen,

oxygen and nitrogen, a trace of sulphur, and some contain phosphor.

The difference between these substances and the carbohydrates is that

they contain nitrogen. They have also received the name proteids,

frequently called flesh formers, on account of their nutritive

properties.

Sugar, dextrin and gum carbohydrates that can be extracted with water.

F. _Fat contents of flour._ Shake vigorously for some time 10 ounces of

rye or wheat flour with 40 ounces of ether, to which has been added 40

ounces of pure alcohol. Heat the mixture gently to 104 degrees F., and

fat globules will be seen on the surface of the fluid. This is the fat

contained in flour. Rye flour contains 2 per cent., wheat flour 1 per

cent. of fat.

G. _Cellulose in flour._ Flour contains more or less fibrin. In order

to separate it from the flour, the extractive matters of the flour

are washed in consecutive order with water, ether and alcohol, the

residue is then boiled in dilute sulphuric acid. The fibrin obtained

is then washed and dried. In appearance it looks like wood fiber. This

substance is contained also in the gluten and in the envelopes of the

starch cells. It is insoluble in water, dilute acids or alkaline. It is

indigestible and has no value as a food.

H. _Ash of flour._ Take a little flour and spread it on a platinum

dish and heat over a bunson burner. Continue the heating until nothing

remains but a grayish white powder. This is the ash or mineral part of

the flour.

These mineral substances enter into the flour through absorption from

the earth by the roots of the wheat grass.

The ash of flour is mostly composed of phosphates, and are of great

importance because they are bone-forming and help to build up the

framework of the human body.

The Average of Analysis.

Separating the various constituents of flour is called the analyzation

of flour. If in a different quantity of flour the amount of each

component part is determined it is called quantitative analysis. The

total amount of all constituents is always figured at 100, in order to

give percentage of each constituent contained. Wheat flour contains

13.37 per cent. of water. It means that 100 oz. of flour contains 13.37

per cent. of water. Therefore 100 lbs. of flour contains 13.37 lbs. of

water. The same applies to the starch item, 100 oz. of flour contains

69.30 per cent. of starch.

The total amount of each constituent of several analyses added

together, divided by the sum total of the analyses made, will give

the average amount of each constituent contained in the flour. These

analyses must be made very accurate in order that the results obtained

may be reliable.

The following table, according to R. von Wagner, gives averages,

subdividing the albuminoids into albumen, gliadin, vegetable casein,

cellulose and gluten:

FLOUR.

per cent. Water Albuminoids Fat Sugar Gum & Starch Fibrin Ash

Dextrin

Winter wheat 13.37 10.21 0.94 2.35 3.06 69.30 0.29 0.48

Spring wheat 12.81 12.06 1.36 1.86 4.09 65.88 0.89 0.96

Rye 13.71 11.52 2.08 3.89 7.16 58.61 1.59 1.44

FLOUR.

per cent. Water Albumin Gliadin Vegetable Cellulose Gluten

casein

Wheat flour 15.54 1.34 1.76 0.37 5.19 3.50

Rye 14.60 1.56 2.92 0.90 7.36 ——

per cent. Sugar Gum Fat Starch

Wheat flour 2.33 6.25 1.07 63.64

Rye 3.46 4.10 1.80 64.28

[Illustration]

YEAST AND FERMENTS

Mix some flour into a dough and bake it. The result will be a coarse,

tough, indigestible cracker.

The flour and water product possesses keeping qualities, but can only

be used as a food when soaked in a fluid.

A baked product if used as a nutriment must possess lightness and

porosity and be so constituted that it can be easily digested.

For this reason yeast is required in bread making.

Yeast.

_A Gas Test._—Dissolve in a flask 2 ounces of syrup or honey in a

pint of water at 140 degrees F., and add one-sixth of an ounce of

compressed yeast, which has been broken up and dissolved in a part of

the saccharine infusion. Seal the flask with a perforated rubber cork,

pass a bent glass tube through the perforation and attach a piece of

rubber hose to the glass tubing. In fifteen or twenty minutes small

bubbles will be seen rising to the surface of the fluid, which will

continually increase in number, until the surface is covered with a

froth formation, somewhat like the head of a cauliflower.

_The fluid is fermenting._—After 1 to 1½ hours the froth forming

gradually ceases and finally drops.

During fermentation lead the rubber hose attached to the generating

flask into a smaller flask half filled with water. You will notice

bubbles oozing from the mouth of the hose through the water. Then at

once make a test by holding a lighted match into the small flask. The

match will burn readily, just as it would in the air. After ten or

fifteen minutes repeat this procedure and the burning match will be

extinguished at once, even to the glimmer.

During the first test atmospheric air only was contained in the small

flask. It required a little time for the gas of the generating flask to

displace the atmospheric air, as a result of which the lighted match

went out at the second test.

Another peculiar phenomenon is noticeable in connection with this

test. On top of the water in the open flask the developed gas remains

stationary, but can be dispersed by an air current, either created by

blowing or by waving the hand over the opening of the bottle.

If we then pour some clear lime water into another small bottle and

allow some of the gas from the generating flask by means of the rubber

tubing to flow into the same, we will find that, after withdrawing

the hose, closing the bottle with the thumb and slightly shaking the

contents, the lime water turns milky.

This is caused by a combination of the dissolved lime and the gas. The

latter, which we have developed, is Carbon Dioxide (CO_{2}).

By the above tests we find that Carbon Dioxide is heavier than the

atmosphere, and thus remains in the bottle undisturbed by atmospheric

pressure, for a time, as it combines very slowly with the air. By

creating a draught, the combining with the air is facilitated.

Top and Bottom Yeast.

Remove with a glass rod, during active fermentation, a little of the

froth from the saccharine infusion and wash it off with a few drops

of clean water, and place a small drop of the solution upon the

object glass of the microscope. At 300 to 500 magnified strength we

notice that the froth consists of small round or oval bubbles, which

occasionally, though seldom, are elongated. They appear singly or in

groups, and often look like strings of pearls. These bubbles are yeast

cells. Figure 5 shows yeast cells after five hours of propagation. Each

cell has a thin covering of fibrin or cellulose; while the interior

contains a soft granular albuminous substance, called Plasma, or

Protoplasma.

During vigorous fermentation at a temperature of 68 to 80 degrees F.,

the majority of the bubbles are forced to the surface of the fluid by

the action of the escaping Carbon Dioxide, and at the final stages

of fermentation gradually precipitate. At a temperature of 36 to 45

degrees F. the fermentation is slower, the generating Carbon Dioxide

is less active in escaping and without sufficient force to bring the

bubbles to the surface. The yeast cells to a great extent grow and

settle on the bottom of the generating vessel.

These characteristics designate top and bottom yeast.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.]

Both of these yeasts are of the same species, and either can be

converted into the other by the changing of the temperature during

propagation. They are recognizable by a slight difference in size.

Owing to the more favorable conditions during growth top yeast is

somewhat better developed than bottom yeast. Compressed yeast used in

bread baking is top yeast.

_Distillation Test._—After the fermentation in the generating flask

has ceased, and no more bubbles rise to the surface of the fluid, test

it by distillation. For this purpose we first filter the saccharine

fluid to remove the yeast cells. Place the clear filtrate in a clean

flask, stop it with a perforated rubber cork, and connect it by means

of a bent glass tube with a cooling apparatus. Figure 6 shows such an

apparatus. The vapor generated from the filtrate contained in the flask

passes through the coil in the cooler, as shown in the illustration.

The cooler is provided with tube connections at the lower and upper

ends, which can be fitted with perforated corks, through which glass

tubes may be inserted.

[Illustration: Fig. 6.]

The lower tube by means of rubber tubes is connected with the cold

water faucet, not shown in the illustration; the flow of cold water

around the coil can be regulated at the faucet and drawn off at the

upper tube.

In lieu of a cooler as shown, one can be constructed by leading the

tube of the filtrate flask into a somewhat wider and longer glass tube,

which is connected with a second bottle. The long glass tube, in this

case, must be kept cool by constantly pouring cold water over it during

distillation.

When all connections have been made tight, heat the filtrate over an

alcohol lamp to a boiling point, the flask having been placed on a

piece of wire gauze to equalize the heat. The arising vapors passing

through the coil are condensed, and drip like tears into a receptacle

placed underneath the cooler. This evaporating and condensing of a

fluid is called distillation.

The portion of the condensed fluid coming over at the beginning will be

found, if tasted, to be very strong spirits of alcohol. Light it with a

taper, it will produce a large bluish flame.

As the distillation continues the spirits coming over lose gradually

in strength until finally very little else but the vapors of water

are condensed. Water boils at 212 degrees F., spirits of alcohol at

172 degrees F. We would therefore infer that at the beginning of

distillation it is possible to recover alcohol only if the infusion was

heated to 176 degrees F.

This view, however, is erroneous. The boiling point of the mixture is

only slightly greater than that of pure alcohol, and the generated

vapors are already at the beginning and combination of both fluids,

although at first the proportion of alcohol is the greater.

We have now seen that yeast is capable of producing alcohol and carbon

dioxide. This is called alcoholic fermentation.

Wine, beer, brandy and other spirituous liquors are produced by

alcoholic fermentation, and the same is attributed to the raising of

bread doughs.

The yeast cell in its search for nutriment consumes and changes the

sugar, to facilitate growth, finally reducing it into simpler bodies of

alcohol and carbon dioxide.

The chemical changes of the sugar are due to the ever-changing

composition of the albuminous plasma of the yeast cell. When the plasma

has lost the power to renew itself, it dies and putrefaction sets in.

Worts of sugar and diffusible albuminous solutions are ideal foods for

yeast, as they readily permeate the fine, porous coverings of the yeast

cells to nourish the plasma, which at the same time, by its own action,

creates the requisite warmth by the dissolution of the sugars with

alcohol—carbon dioxide.

The following description will illustrate how this is accomplished:

Make a drumhead, by stretching and fastening a piece of bullock’s

bladder or either vegetable or animal parchment paper over a cylinder

of glass. Place this in a vessel containing pure water, and pour into

the cylinder a strong solution of common salt. The salt brine and the

pure water are only separated from each other by the thin membrane of

the bladder or the parchment. After a little while it will be noticed

that the salt solution will have diffused out through the membrane

until the liquid, both outside and inside the floating cylinder, has

the same strength. This is called osmose, or dialysis.

In choosing its nutriment yeast is very selective. Of the

carbohydrates, glucose, maltose and those of C_{6}H_{12}O_{6} group are

capable of direct fermentation, and are quickly and vigorously changed

by yeast. In direct opposition, we find that cane sugar, beet sugar,

as well as the starch of flour, are not fermentable until chemically

changed. This change is brought about by yeast itself.

The plasma of the yeast contains an albuminous substance called

Invertin. As explained above, the Invertin, by dialysis, is diffused

out through the cell covering and changes cane sugar and sugars of

the same class, as well as part of the flour starch, into fermentable

sugar, known as invert sugars.

* * * * *

_Reproduction of Yeast._—During fermentation yeast nourishes and

reproduces itself. The granulations of the living plasma divides

itself, and with a portion of the plasma forms a small protuberance

at one end of the cell; it then enters the neck, which is gradually

developed by the contraction of the cell wall and forms a bud.

The neck finally closes, the budding daughter cell releases itself from

the parent cell, and each are then an individual organism.

This operation is known as “budding.” Each parent cell is capable of

giving off several buds in succession. The daughter cells in their turn

reproduce in the same manner, and so with remarkable rapidity yeast

cells multiply.

But yeast is also reproduced by spores termed “ascospores.”

In this case yeast cells do not throw out a bud, but the plasma divides

itself into (usually) four portions called spores, each of which

surrounds itself with a thin membrane.

These spores, when set free by the dissolution of the cellulose

coverings of the parent cells, on account of their minuteness float

away into the atmosphere. If by chance they drop into the proper

medium, such as malt wort or flour barms, spontaneous fermentation sets

in.

This is recognized by the fact of spontaneous fermentation frequently

and easily occurring in the fermenting rooms of yeast factories and

breweries, as innumerable quantities of spores are present in the

atmosphere at all times.

* * * * *

_Pure Yeast Cultures._—By the manner in which yeast nourishes and

reproduces itself, we acknowledge it to be a plant of exceedingly

elemental structure.

[Illustration: Fig. 7.

Growing Yeast After 8 Hours’ Propagation.]

Being devoid of the green coloring matter of the plant (chlorophyll),

the yeast cell is incapable of assimilating inorganic matter, such as

carbon, nitrogen, ammonia and certain mineral salts, for the purpose of

building up their tissues.

Yeast belongs to the family of Fungi, and on account of the peculiar

manner of its reproduction is classified as “Sprouting Fungi.”

We are obliged to admit that the true nature of the yeast cell has

as yet never been entirely satisfactorily explained. Some scientists

are of the opinion that yeast cells are but the embryo of higher

fungi development; for it is known as a fact that certain species of

the sprouting fungi do not possess the faculty to incite alcoholic

fermentation, while, on the other hand, some of the higher species of

mould fungi possess the qualification not alone to incite alcoholic

fermentation, but are also capable of ascospore formation. So much for

this explanation.

It has been proven by actual results that different species of yeast

produce widely different kinds of fermented liquid. These differences

are recognized in the yeast cell of wine, of beer, and of the

distillery, the last named being also the yeast of dough fermentation.

If the yeast cell of wine be placed in a beer wort, the fermented wort

will assume a vinous flavor, and is known as maltine.

Science has shown that yeast cells are composed of groups of various

species. The principal species, among others, as found in brewers’

or distillers’ yeasts, are known as Sacchoromyces Cerevisial and

Sacchoromyces Pastorianus.

Both are very much alike in appearance, both incite alcoholic

fermentation, but develop in a similar wort a number of widely

different by-products, the analyses of which have thus far baffled the

resources of the chemist. The action of these two species is readily

recognized by the flavor and taste imparted to the fermented medium.

As the bouquet imparted to wine is attributed to the wine yeast cell

(Sacchoromyces Ellipsoideus), characteristic of the grape juice, so the

baker recognizes by the flavor of his baked product that the proper

species of yeast has been employed, irrespective of the flavor which

may have been obtained by other materials used in the baking.

While it is difficult to separate the various species of yeast cells,

the phenomena of spore formation has led the way to accomplish it.

At a temperature of 54 degrees F., Sacchoromyces Cerevisial will show

ascospore formation in 200 hours, while Sacchoromyces Pastorianus at

the same temperature forms spores already in 77 hours. This difference

in time of the maturing of the spore formation of the various species

of yeast being known, is utilized in transferring the spore of any

specific species upon culture plates of nutrient gelatine, upon which

the spores develop into little colonies of yeast cells.

The healthiest and strongest appearing cell is then cut out with a

sterilized platinum wire and transferred into a flask of sterilized

malt wort, and the reproduction from a single cell of any given species

is begun. In this manner pure yeast culture is accomplished.

In the fermenting vats growing yeasts are often contaminated by spores

of undesirable species from the atmosphere, and result in producing

conditions unfavorable for the purposes desired. In such cases we must

resort to a pure yeast culture to re-establish the desired fermentation.

* * * * *

_Manufacture of Compressed Yeast._—Compressed yeast is the result of

alcoholic fermentation of malt and grain worts. As it is of material

interest to the baker to acquaint himself with a general knowledge

regarding the manufacture of compressed yeast, a short but clear

description is given below.

* * * * *

_Treating the Grain._—Malt is produced by soaking barley or other

grains in water and spreading in thin layers on the floors of the

malting rooms. Being moist and in consequence supplied with artificial

heat, the grains begin to sprout. As the rootlets grow in size a

product is being formed in the germ that has the power to convert

starch into sugar. This product is called Diastase. This reaction is

still clouded with a good deal of mystery, and it has as yet never been

clearly defined.

We know this much, however, that some parts of the nitrogenous matter

of grains are chemically changed into Diastase.

Practice teaches the maltster, by the size the rootlets attain, when

the maximum diastasic strength of the malt has been reached.

The sprouting of the malt is now arrested by drying the malt in kilns

at a temperature of 131 to 176 degrees F., which evaporates the

moisture and kills further germination.

For malting purposes barley is mostly used, as its diastasic strength

exceeds that of any other grain.

* * * * *

_The Yeast Mash._—For preparing the yeast mash crushed malt and rye is

employed, although other grains are used to replace part of the rye,

such as corn and buckwheat.

Experience teaches, however, that the best results are obtained by the

use of barley malt and rye only.

The materials are selected with great care. The water employed is

boiled, the rye must be clean and free from dust, and the malt free

from mould. The rye is first soaked in water and then crushed.

In 200 liters of water at 125 degrees F., 100 kg. of the grains are

mixed and constantly stirred for thirty minutes, until all lumps have

disappeared, the temperature in the meantime remaining constant. At

this temperature the dissolving of the albuminous matters of the grains

is favored, and the changing of the starches into sugar and dextrin is

facilitated.

* * * * *

_Saccharification of the Mash._—At the expiration of the thirty minutes

the temperature of the mash is gradually increased by steam from 122 to

158 degrees F., and constantly stirred.

It has been substantiated that these temperatures are best suited for

a perfect gelatinization and saccharification of the starches without

injuring the diastasic properties of the malt. At the same time, a

temperature of 158 degrees F., which is continued for two hours, is

useful to effectually sterilize the mash by destroying the undesirable

bacteria. During this time the diastase, which, as we have seen, was

produced in the sprouting barley during malting, effects its function

in the quickest possible manner. The result is a very sweet, lasting

fluid.

In order to ascertain whether the saccharification has been complete,

a small portion of the mash is filtered and tested with a drop of

tincture of iodine. When the tincture of iodine discontinues to produce

a blue coloring in the filtered fluid the saccharification is complete.

* * * * *

_Acidulation of the Mash._—This is probably the most momentous stage

of compressed yeast manufacturing, and watchfulness must be practiced,

if the object be to produce a pure yeast free from all possible

contamination.

The means used for this purpose is the introduction of lactic acid

fermentation. The mash is covered up, occasionally the mash is stirred,

but always from bottom upward, so as to bring as large a surface as

possible in contact with the atmosphere (oxygen), while the mash is

kept at a temperature favorable to lactic ferment growth.

The reason for this acidulation is twofold. In the first place, the

lactic ferments assist in converting the insoluble albuminous matters

of the grains into soluble matter. Technically, this is known as

changing the albuminoids into peptones.

In the second place, lactic ferment is absolute poison for the

undesirable bacteria, which may have developed, without injuring in any

way the yeast cells proper, but rather has an influence for good toward

them. Sulphuric acid is sometimes added to increase the acidity.

When the acidity reaches 2½ per cent. in the mash it is ready for

further manipulation. Apparatuses to indicate the per cent. of acidity

developed are used for the purpose of accuracy.

The acidulation of the mash having been satisfactorily completed,

further operations are dependent upon the method selected to produce

yeast. The older method is known as the “Vienna Process,” while the

newer method is called “Aeration Process.”

The Older or Vienna Process.

_Fermentation of the Mash._—At the completion of the acidulation of

the mash it is at once cooled to 77 degrees F. This is accomplished

by continuously agitating the mash by mechanical means with hollow

plungers that are filled with ice or cold water, and which at the same

time serves to aerate the mash.

The former method of cooling the mash in shallow vats, on account of

infection and introduction by and of undesirable bacteria from the

atmosphere into the mash, has been generally discarded.

Fermentation is now introduced by adding a certain quantity of

compressed yeast, which must be free from starch adulteration.

In a short time a head begins to develop upon the surface of the mash,

which gradually grows and rises to the top of the half-filled vats. The

period of fermentation depends upon the temperature of the mash as well

as the density of the mash.

The higher the density of the mash, the more vigorous the fermentation.

In general, the time consumed for proper fermentation is twelve to

eighteen hours.

As fermentation proceeds, the density of the mash becomes less, while

the yeast cells increase, and at the same time the temperature of the

mash raises.

[Illustration: Fig. 8.

Yeast Cells Fully Developed.]

The mash in this process contains the whole of the grains, and for this

reason the head, which contains the yeast cells, and which is skimmed

off as it rises, must be strained; it is subsequently washed and then

pressed. In contrast to this method the newer or “Aeration Process” for

the production of yeast presents entirely different phases.

Production of Yeast by Aeration Process.

This method was invented in Sweden about ten years ago, and is in use

in many yeast factories to-day. A decided greater percentage of yeast

yield is accomplished by the “Aeration Process.”

After the saccharification of the mash is completed, the extract

called “wort” is strained to remove the husks and bran of the grains.

Large vats containing a double bottom are used for this purpose, the

inner or upper bottom being perforated. Spigots are attached to the

bottom of the vats to draw off the “wort.” At first the extract appears

opaque and is again returned to the mash. This pouring-back process

is continued until the “wort” finally flows perfectly clear from the

spigots. The extractive matter still adhering to the husks and bran of

the grains is washed out or “sparged” with hot water.

Another way employed for recovering the clear “wort” is by means of the

filter press. The percolation method, however, is preferable, as the

extraction of the essential properties is more complete.

Fermentation is produced in the “wort” by adding small quantities of

compressed yeast also, or by the use of pitching yeast. During the

fermenting period a continuous stream of atmospheric air is forced

through the “wort” by the aid of air pumps. In order to eliminate

atmospheric dust and bacteria, the air before entering the “wort”

filtered through cotton, and sterilized by passing it through a

solution of salicylic acid. It is also necessary to distribute the air

to all parts of the “wort” equally, by means of perfected tubes, which

are attached to the main air pipe, branching out in various directions

at the bottom of the fermenting vats, with the perforations facing

downward. At the beginning the air current is very moderate, and is

increased in accordance and in proportion of the yeast growth. At

the final stages of fermentation the air current is again moderated.

This forcing in of air, or rather oxygen, in the “wort” stimulates in

an exceedingly large measure the propagation of yeast, but care is

exercised in this respect, however, for if the air pressure be too

strong a large per cent. of alcohol, a very important by-product, will

be lost. The characteristic feature of this method, distinguishing it

from the Vienna Process, is the continued aeration during fermentation,

hence called “Aeration Process.”

* * * * *

_Obtaining the Yeast._—Fermentation of the “mash” or the “worts”

proceeds at a lively rate. In observing the “head” or froth, during

the “Vienna Process,” which at first is transparent, gradually assumes

a milky or of more opaque appearance, caused by enormous increasing

growth of yeast cells, filling up the froth bubbles. When the cells are

fully developed the fermentation may be considered finished. Practice

assumes, although the assumption is not always reliable, that this

stage has been reached when the “head” or froth begins to recede. The

only sure method to determine proper maturity of the yeast cell is by

microscopic observation.

Placing some of the froth under the object glass of the microscope, the

yeast cells most appear well developed and isolated from each other. It

should be the exception rather than the rule that budding cells still

be visible.

Not until assured that the proper time has been reached should the

skimming of the upper portion of the froth be begun. This portion of

the “head” contains the so-called “pitching yeast,” and is used largely

in starting new propagation.

Large galvanized perforated spoons with long handles are used to skim

off the froth. Repeated observations of the froth during the skimming

are made, to ascertain the condition of the yeast cells.

The yeasty froth is immediately mixed with ice cold water to arrest

further fermentation. This also serves to increase the keeping

properties of the yeast.

The water containing the skimmed-off matter is now run through

strainers of varying sized meshes, the coarser retaining the husks and

bran, while the finer meshes prevent the gummy matter adhering to the

yeast cells from passing.

The strained yeast cells are caught up in vessels containing water,

where they precipitate in a compact layer, and is then ready to be

washed.

In order to watch the settling of the yeast, these vessels are

constructed with windows so as to give the operator a perfect vision of

the settling.

This operation of washing the yeast in new water and allowing it to

settle is repeated several times, at which time nearly all of the

impurities have been removed and excellent keeping properties have been

attained.

A newer method of washing yeast has lately been introduced by the

invention of a specially constructed patented centerfuge. If it be

intended to mix starch with the yeast, it is usually done just after

the washing has been completed.

Potato or rice starch are used. The utmost carefulness must be observed

in the examination of the starches, as they frequently are contaminated

with bacteria or acids, which tend to injure the keeping qualities of

the yeast and very soon become unfit for use.

After the clear water of the last washing has been removed by

decantation, the compact settled mass is pressed dry by hydraulic or

filter press, and finally formed by specially constructed machines into

pound pieces, familiar to all bakers.

The “mash” or the “wort” after the yeast has been removed contain

alcohol in paying quantities, and is recovered by distillation.

One hundred kilograms of mash yields an average of 11 per cent. yeast

and 28 per cent. of alcohol, if fermented according to the “Vienna

Process.” The “Aeration Process” yields 25 per cent. of yeast and 18

per cent. of alcohol. The remaining grains in the liquids are much

sought after for their value as desirable fodder for cattle.

* * * * *

_Yeast Adulteration._—High class compressed yeast should be free from

all adulterants. Most manufacturers, on account of the slimy matter

of yeast, causing many difficulties in pressing, add from 5 to 10

per cent. of potato starch, claiming that it increases the keeping

qualities by absorbing part of the moisture. The writer, however, does

not agree with them.

Starch is undoubtedly at times added to yeast in large excess; it then

becomes an adulteration; this fraud is, however, readily detected by

treating the sample of yeast with iodine. For this purpose break up a

little of the yeast in a test tube with some water, shake it up well

and add a few drops of tincture of iodine; after standing a little

while the starch will settle at the bottom of the tube in a dark blue

layer.

Plaster of paris has also been found in yeast; this, besides being

fraudulent, is decidedly criminal, and verily, is giving a “stone for

bread.”

Nature of and Examination of Compressed Yeast.—A good sample of

compressed yeast should have a creamy white color. A brownish

discoloration would indicate that fermentation had been too far

prolonged before skimming. It should have an odor of apples, not

cheesy; neither should it have an acid odor or taste. A piece of blue

litmus paper pressed against the cut of the yeast should remain neutral

or at the most show but a faint sign of red; a marked change in the

paper from blue to red would indicate acidity.

A microscopic view of good yeast dissolved in water should have the

appearance as seen in Fig. 2, shown above. When broken it should

show a fine fracture, irregularly rounded. Should it be crumbly,

deterioration has set in. In lukewarm water it should melt readily,

and not be sloppy to the touch. The dissolved yeast placed in a glass

tube should settle slowly and evenly with the water above it perfectly

clear. During this test adulteration with plaster of paris is readily

detected, as it would be the first to settle out, and by carefully

decanting the fluid, examination of the sediment would disclose plaster

of paris.

If the solution of yeast and water does not clear itself the yeast

is spoiled, and is of no use for the fermenting of doughs. It is

contaminated with wild yeast and harmful bacteria, and would be

instrumental in starting putrefactive fermentation, ruining the flavor

of baked goods. Should we desire to ascertain the amount of starch

present in an adulterated yeast, the following method is applicable:

Weigh a small beaker and a small glass rod on a very accurate scale;

or, better still, on an analytical balance, and assume the weight to

be 17.5 g. In the beaker place 10 g. of the compressed yeast under

examination; break it up fine with the glass rod, and place the beaker

in a hot water bath for several hours, weighing occasionally until

two consecutive weighings are exactly equal; for instance, 21.2 g. We

deduct from this the weight of the beaker and glass rod, giving us the

following figures: 21.2 g. - 17.5 = 3.7 g.

The quantity of moisture evaporated out of the yeast would therefore

be 10 g. - 3.7 = 6.3 g. According to the findings of Hayduck, pressed

yeast contains originally 73.5 per cent. and dry starch 36 per cent. of

moisture.

We now proceed to make deductions to determine the quantity of starch

contained as an adulterant in the mixture. We set the example: “What

per cent. of starch is contained in a mixture of yeast and starch if 10

g. of the mixture gives off by evaporation 6.3 g. of moisture, yeast

containing 75.3 per cent. and starch 36 per cent. of moisture?”

Solution.—One hundred g. of pure press yeast, heated to dryness, gives

off 73.5 g.; therefore, 10 g. heated should give off 7.35 per cent.

moisture.

In our test the loss is but 6.3 g., consequently a deficiency of 1.04

g. This in itself indicates starch adulteration.

Starch gives off 36 per cent. of moisture; therefore, 1 g. gives off

0.36 g., and 1 g. of yeast 0.735 g. of moisture. With each 1 g. of

starch addition the moisture loss is found to be 0.735 - 0.36 = 0.375

g. deficient.

In the 10 g. mixture under examination there is contained as many times

1 g. of starch as 0.375 g. is contained in 1.05 g., which is equal to

2.8 g. In a 100 g. mixture the result would be 28 g., or 28 per cent.,

which is the per cent. of starch adulteration in our mixture examined.

The Fermenting Strength of Yeast.

The best manner for the baker to test the strength of yeast is to take

equal parts of the samples of the various yeasts, about 10 g.; dissolve

in 100 g. of water at 85 degrees F., and make a dough with equal

amounts of the same bread flour (about 1990 g.).

[Illustration: Fig. 9.]

In order to prevent transferring of any one yeast sample to either of

the other doughs, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the hands between

each mixing. Place the doughs in glass jars of equal dimensions, and

allow them to raise at an even temperature. It goes without saying that

all ingredients must be weighed exactly alike, and the temperatures in

all cases be the same. The yeast which gives the greatest expansion of

the dough has the preference.

Another simple manner to test the strength of yeast is to drop a

piece of the dough into tepid water (85 degrees F.), and observe the

time consumed between immersion and when the piece of dough rises to

the surface of the water. The dough which rises in the shortest time

contains the strongest yeast.

Of course, in technical schools yeast strength is determined along

different lines. A Hayduck carbonic acid measuring apparatus is used

for this purpose, and is shown in cut (Fig. 9). It consists of two

connecting glass tubes fastened against a board. The wider of the tubes

has a capacity of 500 cc., and ends at the top in a narrow glass tube,

to which rubber tubing may be attached, and is graduated in cubic

centimetres. The other narrow tube ends at top funnel-shaped.

Through the funnel the apparatus is filled with water, colored blue to

make observations easily. In order that the water may not absorb any of

the carbonic acid gas, which would tend to make the test inaccurate, on

top of the water in the wider tube a thin layer of petroleum is poured.

In gas generating flasks (A) a suitable “wort” and a definite amount of

yeast, to be tested, is dissolved and placed in a water bath. (B) is a

second flask for the next following test. (C) is a pinch-cock, which is

left open so long as (D) is kept closed. The generated carbonic acid

gas forces the water out of the wide tube and is caught up at (G). The

yeast which has the ability to displace the largest amount of water at

stated periods is considered the best fermentation inciter. Before any

readings are taken the water in both tubes is brought to the same level

by means of cock (E).

If care be taken to use the exact proportions of materials in each

test at even temperature, reliable conclusions are obtained from each

individual yeast sample.

* * * * *

_Water._—Next to flour, water is the most abundant compound used by

the baker. It is the great solvent of Nature. Pure water is composed

of the two gases, hydrogen and oxygen, in proportions of 1 to 8. It is

colorless and tasteless.

Water as found in nature is never pure. Owing to its action as a

solvent, it contains bodies like lime, magnesia and potash in solution,

besides air, carbon dioxide and other mineral matters. Hard water is

such as contains more than seven grains of mineral salts per gallon.

The hardness due to bicarbonate of lime may be neutralized by boiling.

Other mineral salts are penniment.

In general, soft water is more adaptable for bakers’ use, as hard water

retards fermentation and somewhat checks the softening changes going on

in the dough during fermentation.

Doughs made with hard water require to lay longer to properly mature.

It is for this reason that the baker will find it necessary at equal

dough temperatures to modify his methods when using hard or soft waters

to get uniform results.

It is of the utmost importance that water used in the bakery be free

from organic matter that is detrimental to health, as many such

organisms have a tendency to set up putrefactive fermentation in doughs.

In a broad sense, however, water that is declared fit for drinking

purposes can be safely employed in bread work.

* * * * *

_Salt._—Chemically known as chloride of sodium. It is produced from

three different sources: Bay or sea salt, rock or mine salt, and

natural brine or pit salt. Of these the refined product of natural

brine or pit salt is to be preferred by bakers.

It should be dry, to insure uniform results, as wet salt contains a

large percentage of water, which interferes with obtaining accurate and

uniform quantities needed in the doughs.

It is added to doughs in varying amounts, from 1½ to 4 pounds per

barrel of flour, and gives bread flavor and taste. When working with

soft water more salt is required than in hard water. While salt gives

the bread flavor, it also retards fermentation. It is especially of

import by keeping in check lactic and butyric fermentation, causing

sour bread. Authorities claim that salt in all proportions from 1.4

per cent. upwards retards fermentation and diminishes the speed of gas

evolution, the raising of the dough.

* * * * *

_Milk._—Is largely used in bread making. Dry milk on account of its

convenience, has supplanted fluid milk in a large measure in the bakery.

Although not universally accepted, the writer is of the opinion that

dry milk containing pure butter fat will add equal flavor to bread in

which fluid milk is used.

Besides giving flavor and nourishing properties to bread, on account

of its dryness it has water absorptive qualities that are of economic

value to the baker.

Dry milk also contains soluble extracts that have an invigorating

influence on yeast growth, i. e., fermentation, and improves and gives

a better bloom in the crust of the bread.

In point of economic value, the baker should determine, by making small

trial doughs, the increased volume obtained by reason of the extra

moisture absorbing properties of dry milk when used in doughs.

* * * * *

_Fat._—Lard, compound lard and cotton-seed oil are the fats generally

employed in bread making. The use of fats effects a finer texture in

the bread.

A colorless shortening assists in producing a whiter crumb, and also

by coating the cells of the loaf retains the moisture of the baked

bread. Doughs containing large amounts of shortening, under best and

equal conditions, will stand a larger amount of proof, as part of the

shortening in a well mixed dough has combined with the gluten of the

flour used, allowing it to stretch further and become more elastic and

still hold the increased amount of gas generated by the heat of the

oven, and produces a loaf of greater volume.

Not all shortenings will produce the same effect, and the baker should

experiment with small batches. The points to be determined are the

effect the shortening has on the crust, volume of the loaf, as well as

the color.

* * * * *

_Sugar._—Among the sugar groups used in the bakery we find cane sugar,

malt extracts, glucose and yeast foods.

Each of these products have characteristic effects on fermentation and

doughs, and will be treated in a later paper.

[Illustration]

DOUGHS LEAVENED BY YEAST

BY PROF E. W. HABERMAAS

There are two distinct ways of making doughs. One way is to set a

sponge first, then make the dough, and the other way is to make the

dough at once. The first is called a “Sponge Dough” and the second is

called a “Straight Dough.” Straight dough is so called, because all

ingredients such as yeast, salt, sugar, lard, water and flour are all

mixed and formed into a dough. There are various reasons for making

straight doughs, a few of which we will proceed to give. In the first

place, it is more convenient to make a straight dough, because it does

not require as much time to make as does mixing the sponge dough,

because the mixing is all done at one time. Then, again, a straight

dough can be taken in a shorter time than a sponge dough. By this I

mean that in case of necessity the dough can be taken, in from 1½ to

2 hours after it has been made. I do not advocate taking the dough in

such a short time, but it can be done, because I have done it with good

results.

Straight dough requires more yeast than doughs made from a sponge,

because the yeast has not as favorable a medium in which to grow,

in the straight dough as it has in the sponge dough. It is conceded

by some that straight dough requires a stronger flavor than a dough

made from a sponge; by others that a stiffer dough is required; by

others, that the finished product has a coarse texture, and that an

“yeasty” taste predominates. The author made straight doughs daily for

eleven years successfully. He neither made a specially stiff dough

nor did his finished product have a coarse texture nor an “yeasty”

taste. Sometimes when the temperature of the shop was very high or

an exceptionally weak flour was sent us, then would our product have

a somewhat coarse texture, but this would soon be remedied by using

less yeast and reducing the temperature of the liquid used. There are

advantages in using strong flour, but they are alike in the straight

and the sponge dough, and they are larger yields and larger goods, but

these are not the only points to be considered.

Some bakers are partial to spring wheat flour, because the yield in

bread is greater than when a blend is used.

Too often is quantity preferred to quality. It seems that most bakers

are working to the one end, namely, to get the flour which yields most

bread. In this endeavor they are sacrificing quality for quantity.

Spring flour containing a larger per cent. of gluten than winter wheat

flour naturally takes up more moisture, producing in turn more bulk,

therefore more bread.

Then again the gluten in the spring wheat flour is of a tenacious

character, producing a tough elastic dough. Such a dough can resist

a greater gas pressure than can one made of weaker flour, and can

therefore stand more proof, thus producing a larger and better

appearing loaf than one made of a winter wheat flour or a blend.

If a blend is used, we will say two parts of a high grade winter wheat,

and one part of spring wheat flour, and the dough is properly worked,

the bread will have a fine, smooth, soft, velvety texture, and a mild,

sweet taste. The loaf will not be as large a loaf as the one made of

spring wheat flour, but will remain soft and moist longer than the loaf

made of spring wheat flour. The reason for this is, that winter wheat

flour contains a larger per cent. of natural moisture and a smaller

per cent. of gluten than the spring flour, therefore it takes up less

moisture, and consequently does not lose as much by evaporation in

baking; thus leaving a larger per cent. of moisture in the bread.

The chemist’s test cannot decide the true baking value of a flour. A

bakeshop test, made by a practical baker, is absolutely necessary to

decide this matter.

The principal points to be considered when making straight dough are

these: the temperature of the ingredients, the temperature of the

shop, the quantity of yeast, and the quality of the flour used. If the

temperature of the shop is very high, the liquid used should be cool,

and the quantity of yeast should be reduced.

The most favorable temperature for fermentation is from 80 to 90

degrees Fahr., though I prefer to have the dough 85 degrees Fahr.

Before proceeding to make the dough, take the temperature of the flour

and the shop, then heat the water to a temperature which will give

your dough a temperature of 80 degrees Fahr. when ready. For example,

if the temperature of your flour were 5 degrees Fahr., the temperature

of the water would have to be 10 degrees Fahr. Now if the temperature

of the shop were 70 degrees Fahr., the temperature of the water could

be raised to 110 degrees Fahr. I would advise you not to get the

temperature of the dough too high, but would rather that you raise the

temperature of your shop. Dough chills very quickly when it is on the

bench, and after a dough is chilled it will come up very slowly. When

making dough in a dough-mixer, the temperature of the water should be

at least 5 degrees higher than when making it by hand, because the

mixers are more or less cold, while, when dough is made by hand you

have the animal heat of the hands to keep up the temperature of the

dough. When the weather is very warm, the temperature of the water

must be changed to suit. For example, if the temperature of your shop

is 90 degrees Fahr., your flour would naturally be very near the same

temperature (providing it were kept in the shop), then the temperature

of the water would have to be at the utmost 75 degrees Fahr., because

the temperature of the dough would continue to rise while it was in the

trough or mixer.

Process for Making Straight Dough.

Heat the liquid to the required temperature, then dissolve the yeast

in a portion of the liquid, then, when the yeast is dissolved, add it

to the rest of the liquid; then add the salt and dissolve it; then add

the fats and sugar; then add the flour. (As above mentioned for uniform

results it is best to weigh the flour, sugar, salt and fats.) After the

flour has been added, work it into a smooth dough.

Weighing and Measuring Ingredients Used in Baking.

By Professor E. W. Habermaas.

All solids used in baking should be weighed, and all liquids should be

measured accurately. Varied results and failures in baking are very

often due to inaccurate weighing and measuring of ingredients. If your

recipe calls for a pound of sugar, don’t use 1¼ pounds instead. Or if

a recipe calls for 1 gallon of milk, don’t use ⅞ gallon instead. The

author has often seen bakers use 1¼ pounds of some ingredient when 1

pound was what should have been used. Many bakers are exceptionally

careless about measuring the liquids, such as milk and water. They

will dip a quart or pint measure into a can of milk or into a bucket

of water and draw it out on a slant, thus causing a portion of the

liquid to run out. Often as much as one-fourth of a pint of milk will

run out of the measure, still they will count that a full measure.

This may seem a trifle, but when measuring a number of quarts or

pints, it ceases to be a trifling matter but becomes a matter of vital

importance. For example, you are about to make a dough of four quarts

of milk or water, and you measure the milk or water as above shown.

After having added the flour and you are making the dough, you will

find that the dough is too stiff. This is based on the fact that you

use a given quantity of flour to every quart of milk or water used, as

should be the case, if you expect uniform results. You have the correct

amount of flour, but not enough milk or water. Then again, the yield of

such a dough would be less than it should be. Most bakers do not weigh

the flour for their dough. Where this is the case, flour is usually

added until the dough is of the proper consistency. So in that case

the fact that the baker had not measured the liquid accurately would

not necessitate getting too stiff a dough, because he has not a given

quantity of flour to work in but adds it until the dough is of the

proper consistency, but the yield will be less because there is less

dough.

I do not approve of this method of making doughs, because the results

are not uniform, and it requires more time to make the dough, because

you are compelled to add more flour occasionally to get the proper

consistency. Whereas, when you have the exact amount of flour and add

it at once, you can proceed with dough without interruption. Then

again, when you weigh the flour for your dough, you always have uniform

results.

The flour, sugar, malt extract, salt and fats (if any) should be

weighed, and the milk or water measured or weighed for every batch of

dough, no matter how large or how small, if you would have uniform

results.

One of the “hit or miss” methods prevalent in most shops is that

bakers measure the water and weigh the salt, and guess at the rest.

Fats, sugar and flour are seldom weighed. What are the consequences?

Sometimes they have a stiff dough, sometimes a soft dough, and

sometimes a medium dough. Sometimes the dough comes up too fast and

sometimes too slow, owing to the consistency of the dough. Then, again,

they never get the same number of loaves out of the same size batch. If

the dough is too stiff, they get more than the required number, and if

the dough is too soft they get less than the required number out of the

batch.

In large shops such methods would not be tolerated, then why should

they be tolerated in small shops? Thousands of dollars could be saved

monthly in bakeshops if more accurate methods were adopted.

* * * * *

When using a very strong flour you can use a little more yeast than

ordinarily without fear of mincing the dough, because strong flour can

stand more proof; but unless absolutely necessary, don’t use any more

yeast than is required under ordinary conditions. During the summer

months it is well to use more salt than during cold weather, because

salt acts as a governor—it holds the dough in check and keeps it sweet.

Book of American Baking A Practical Guide Covering Various Branches of the Baking Industry, Including Cakes, Buns, and Pastry, Bread Making, Pie Baking, Etc. · 第 2 / 5 章