FROM TASHKENT TO MERV
[Illustration: KORAN STAND, SAMARKAND]
The first station beyond Tashkent, travelling towards Merv, is
Kauffmanskaya, where begins the practice of associating with the scenes
of their conquests the names of officers who have achieved distinction
in Turkestan. It is a pleasant custom and serves to perpetuate history
in a manner which might be copied with advantage in India. In this
instance General von Kauffman, who became eventually an _aide-de-camp_
to the Tsar, was the first Governor-General of Russian Turkestan.
Between Tashkent and Kauffmanskaya which, although insignificant,
is equipped with hospital accommodation for six patients, the
railway crosses by an iron bridge of 8 sagenes the Salar river,
itself a tributary of the more important Chirchik. The line then
passes Zangi-ata and the post station of Nialbash, crossing the Kur
Kulduk arik by an iron bridge 3 sagenes in length and running near
Vrevskaya through the Chirchik Valley, a region of special interest
to archæologists. Stari Tashkent or Old Tashkent, rich in historical
associations, is in this neighbourhood. It was inhabited at one time
by the Sakis who, in bygone centuries, offered a stubborn resistance
to Alexander of Macedon. Now it is only an insignificant hamlet,
mere flotsam which has been thrown up and left by the advancing tide
of Russian conquest. Lying to the east of Stari Tashkent and opposite
Kirshul upon the left bank of the Chirchik river are the ruins of
Shuturket or Ushturket--the Town of Camels; in the country between it
and Binket, by which name Tashkent is known among the natives, there
are other ruins.
After skirting Bodorodski and Kaunchi the station of Syr Darinskaya,
lying about 1 verst from the hill and lake of Utch Tubeh, follows, the
line crossing the Bos-su arik by a second bridge of 5 sagenes. Until
this point the general direction has been south-west. Ten versts from
Syr Darinskaya station, at a point where it crosses the Syr Daria by a
four-span iron bridge 160 sagenes in length, the railway runs by the
ancient fortress and lake of Urumbai and turns to the east to thread
the hills which surround Utch Tubeh lake.
The point now arrives where the train enters the region distinguished
by the Emperor Nicholas I. Canal, an extensive system of irrigation
from the waters of the Syr Daria. These works, which the Ministry
of Agriculture introduced, have brought more than 100,000 acres of
the Golodnaya steppe under colonisation. It is due to the initiative
and generosity of the Grand Duke Nicholas Konstantinovitch that the
scheme was executed and its success is illustrated by the fact that
seven villages--Nikolaievski, Nadejdinski, Verkhni, Nijni Volinski,
Konnogvardeiski, Obyetovanni and Romanovski--have been established upon
the reclaimed areas. In the main they are devoted to the cultivation
of the smaller crops, although one or two are given up to the growing
of cotton. The prosperity of the undertaking entails elaborate
precautions; in order that the works should be unobstructed the head
waters of the system are watched continuously by relays of guards.
The Golodnaya zone of cultivation extends only a verst or so beyond
Golodnaya station; between this little oasis and Chernaievo, the next
station, there is a barren wilderness. After leaving Golodnaya and
crossing the Emperor Nicholas I. Canal by an iron bridge, 8 sagenes in
length, the line proceeds north-east beyond the Syr Daria, where it
turns sharply to the east in order to make the junction with the main
line from Krasnovodsk to Andijan. Owing to the lack of cultivation and
the scarcity of population no commercial importance can be ascribed
to Chernaievo. Attached to the little station is a small hospital with
a capacity of ten beds, while the railway workshops employ a permanent
staff of 100 workmen. The depôt at this point, on account of the
junction between the line from Tashkent and the extension to Andijan,
is out of proportion with the requirements of the neighbourhood. Of
course here, as at every station on the line, there is a large store
of naphtha, 50,000 poods being held against emergency in the naphtha
reservoir.
[Illustration: PEASANTS FROM THE GOLODNAYA STEPPE]
In relation to Chernaievo, it would be a pity to avoid mention of the
distinguished soldier who, subsequently Governor-General of Turkestan
and dying in disgrace in August of 1898, gave his name to the place.
Under happier circumstances Chernaieff might have become the Clive
of Central Asia. It was he who, suffering defeat before Tashkent on
October 2, 1854, and determining to remove so signal a stain from the
prestige of the Russian forces, repeated his attack at a moment when he
had received explicit orders from Alexander II. to refrain from doing
so. With the Imperial despatches in his pocket he led his small forces
to the onslaught and it was only when victory had been secured that he
made himself acquainted with his instructions. The reply he despatched
to his august sovereign is as historical as the famous signal which
Nelson displayed at Trafalgar. “Sire,” he wrote,[6] “Your Majesty’s
order, forbidding me to take Tashkent, has reached me only in the city
itself which I have taken and place at your Majesty’s feet.” The Tsar
was angry at the breach of discipline and, although he accepted the
fruits of General Chernaieff’s daring, he never restored his officer to
favour. Superseded by General Romanovski and stung to the quick by this
treatment, Chernaieff retired from the service, a broken-hearted man.
Beyond Chernaievo, situated amid most arid surroundings and in a
locality where the water is salt, is Obrutchevo, so called in honour of
the former Chief of the General Staff, General Obrutcheff. Nine versts
further is Lomakino, which derives its name from General Lomakin, an
officer of repute in the Turcoman Expedition of 1879. Between Lomakino
and Jizak the line enters the province of Samarkand.
Jizak station, named after a district town in the province of
Samarkand, is situated in the valley of the Sanzar river in a locality
which is both thickly populated and well cultivated. At the workshops
there is only a staff of nine workmen, while the railway depôt
possesses little more than engine sheds and a naphtha reservoir of
10,000 poods. The water-supply of the station is drawn from the Sanzar
river. Water for the consumption of the Russian quarter of the town,
which lies at the foot of the northern slope of the Nura mountains, two
versts from the railway, comes from the Russki arik.
The district supplied by the station is small and in the year under
review there were:
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
6038 5612
Goods traffic reveals a steady demand for articles of Russian
manufacture, the combined bulk of this trade being:
_Imports._ _Exports._
136,029 poods 500,142 poods.
The export trade was comprised as follows:
Wheat 392,854 poods.
Wheat flour 21,631 ”
General 85,657 ”
In consequence of the deficiency of fresh water Jizak is an unhealthy
town, more malaria prevailing in the locality than in any other part
of Turkestan, with the exception of the Murghab and Kushk valleys. The
Russian quarter, which was formerly the Kluchevi fortress, possesses a
number of public gardens. There are only thirty-six private houses in
the settlement and these, in the main, are occupied by officials. The
public buildings include two schools, a military hospital, a military
Orthodox Church, the Chancellery of the District Governor, the District
Treasury and other offices. The population at the last census was
17,000.
_Mahommedans._ _Russians._
16,614 386
_Males._ _Females._
9247 7753
The native quarter is of far greater commercial importance than the
Russian town and is situated 3 versts from it. Indeed, the latter is
almost solely a cantonment. The native town possesses:
Houses 3000
Sunnite mosques 54
Shiite mosques 2
Native schools 22
The town revenue is 22,842 roubles and the value of Government property
rather less than 600,000 roubles. There are no hotels in either quarter.
The native bazaars are supposed to be identical with the town of Gaza
through which the armies of Alexander passed in the fourth century B.C.
More recently the Russians converted it into a strong military post.
At the time when it was assaulted by the Russian forces under General
Romanovski, upon October 18, 1856, it was regarded as one of the
most powerful fortresses in Central Asia. In those days the town was
surmounted by a triple wall, 4 sagenes in thickness and 3½ sagenes in
height. High towers defended the interior walls, while upon the outer
wall were mounted fifty-three pieces of artillery. At that time the
strength of the garrison under the command of Alayar Khan was returned
at 10,000 men.
[Illustration: THE COLUMN OF TAMERLANE, SAMARKAND]
A few versts before Jizak the line, running in a westerly direction
along the southern border of the Golodnaya desert, crosses by an iron
bridge, 8 sagenes in length, the Sais Khaneh ravine. Beyond Jizak
and after passing through Milyautinskaya it enters the Ilyan Uta
defile, through which flows the Sanzar river. This defile is the only
existing pass in the Nuratinski range and contains the famous Gates
of Tamerlane. Beyond the gates there is the station of Kuropatkino,
named after General Kuropatkin who so long presided over the destinies
of Russia in Central Asia. From here, the line proceeds to cross
the eastern slope of the Nura range; barely thirty versts further
on it arrives at Rostovtsevo which takes its name from a former
Military Governor of the Ferghana province, Count Rostovtseff. Between
Kuropatkino and this station the line crosses at the foot of the
ascent of the Golun mountains a bridge, 5 sagenes in length, over the
Balungur arik. From the slopes of the Golun Tau the railway traverses
the watershed of the Zerafshan and Sanzar rivers, reaching at 10 versts
from Kuropatkino the highest elevation on the whole line, 403 sagenes
above sea-level. From this point the line then descends to Rostovtsevo
from where, after a short run of 30 versts, it arrives at Samarkand.
[Illustration: THE REGISTAN, SAMARKAND]
With Rostovtsevo there commences without doubt the most interesting
section of the journey between Tashkent and Samarkand. The market of
Samarkand has spread its influence for many miles along the line; and,
as a consequence, there is a welcome note of freshness in the scene.
In addition to the prosperity naturally suggested by the spectacle
of a flourishing oasis, the railway affords a fleeting inspection of
two important bridges. The first, an iron bridge of seven spans and
56 sagenes in length, crosses the Zerafshan river, leaving on the
right the Ark of Tamerlane and on the left a bold, lofty mountain
crag. It rises from two stone buttresses and is supported by six
iron pillars. The spans are 8 sagenes in length and composed of four
sections, the whole work reflecting the cantilever principle. It has
been adapted to traffic, vehicles passing along either side of the
permanent way. Beyond these landmarks the railway picks its way down
the rocky declivity of the Zerafshan watershed towards the undulating,
cultivated lands which extend between Chupan Ata ridge and the second
bridge, which, thrown across the deep Obi Siab ravine 2 versts outside
Samarkand, possesses a length of 30 sagenes. It is constructed in iron
of three spans, supported by stone abutments upon two stone buttresses.
The station of Samarkand, second in importance to Krasnovodsk, is
1415 versts from Krasnovodsk and 332 versts from Tashkent. In the
station square there are a church, an hospital of twenty-five beds,
two second-class schools, workshops and railway yards affording daily
employment for 160 men. Like most stations of the first class it acts
as a medium of distribution to a wide area, stimulating not only the
industrial interests throughout the province but imparting also an
impetus to the agricultural activities of the neighbourhood.
The table of traffic for this important point, illustrating the volume
of trade which passes through Samarkand, is as follows:
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
47,774 47,159
_Imports._
Manufactured goods 320,745 poods.
Iron and steel 72,521 ”
Green tea 85,059 ”
Black tea 35,066 ”
Kerosene 110,497 ”
Yarn and thread 41,625 ”
Refined sugar 48,481 ”
Sanded sugar 35,299 ”
Military stores 93,372 ”
_Exports._
Wheat 173,835 poods.
Wheat flour 398,425 ”
Rice 811,990 ”
Raisins 784,011 ”
Dried grapes 54,138 ”
Spirits 19,650 ”
Skins and hides 15,387 ”
Undressed sheep-skins 21,703 ”
Cotton 102,414 ”
Manufactured goods 192,116 ”
Djuma, the first station beyond Samarkand, is situated in a level,
densely populated country. Barely 30 miles distant and with it equally
a station of the fourth class, is Nagornaya, which in turn gives
place to Katta Kurgan. This town, an important district centre in the
Samarkand province, lies close to the railway in the midst of much
luxuriant vegetation. Its altitude above sea-level is rather more than
222 sagenes. The population numbers 10,219:
_Mahommedans._ _Jews._ _Russians._
8689 1281 249
Its streets are very wide and charmingly planted with high
trees--poplars, acacias, willows and white ash--watered by ariks
supplied from the Narpai stream, itself a tributary of the Zerafshan
river. Quite the most prominent feature is a large public garden
surrounding the house of the Governor, while in connection with the
public buildings there is a military church, a military hospital, a
general hospital of twenty-five beds and a Russian native school. There
are, of course, the usual district offices. Military headquarters
occupies a building to itself, a second affording domicile to the base
staff of the Eighth Turkestan Rifle Battalion.
The native bazaar, an imposing centre, contains:
Mosques (smaller) 38
Synagogues 1
Theological schools 2
Native schools 30
In the main bazaar there are some 300 shops, the business transacted
at them being concerned with the cotton industry and the production
of vegetable oils. There is no hotel in either part of the town but
there is an officers’ club in the Russian quarter. The general revenue
from all sources is about 38,000 roubles and the largest industrial
concern associated with the trade of the district is the Turkestan
Cotton Company, of which the annual trading balance is considerably
in excess of half a million roubles. The development of cotton in the
neighbourhood, to which the Turcoman villages Mitana Pefshanba and
Chardar devote their energies, promises to become a highly valuable
venture.
The goods traffic, indicated by the subjoined table, maintains a steady
volume.
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
12,790 12,220
_Imports._
Cotton seed 210,123 poods.
Kerosene 10,703 ”
Manufactured good 91,814 ”
_Exports._
Wheat 98,991 poods.
Wheat flour 185,052 ”
Rice 17,224 ”
Cotton seed 44,856 ”
Cotton 178,718 ”
General trade 180,678 ”
[Illustration: THRONE ROOM--PALACE OF THE AMIR OF BOKHARA]
A few versts beyond Katta Kurgan the line crosses the border of the
dominions of the Amir of Bokhara. The first station beyond the frontier
is Zirabulak, so called from heights which frown down upon the railway
from close at hand. This little ridge of hills forms an interesting
link with the Russian conquest of Turkestan; it was here that a column
under General von Kauffman routed the Bokharan forces on July 2, 1868.
The battle practically decided the Russian mastery of Central Asia, the
peace concluded by the Amir Sayid Mozaffar Eddin having been maintained
down to the present time. The rich vegetation distinguishing the
locality continues as far as the next station, Ziadin, where the line
enters a cultivated zone which is watered from the Zerafshan and the
Narpai streams. The town possesses a native population of 8000, with a
revenue of rather less than 16,000 roubles. Traffic passing through the
neighbourhood is concerned chiefly with the importation of goods from
Russia and the export of cotton, statistics returning the following
movement:
_Imports._
Manufactured goods 10,500 poods.
_Exports._
Cotton 108,168 poods.
Beyond Ziadin, which is administered by an important Beg, the line
runs to Kermine, a station of the third class constructed to meet the
convenience of the present Amir of Bokhara who, previous to ascending
the throne, had been the Beg of Kermine. The town, which has a
population of 12,000, is dependent almost entirely upon the proceeds of
the cotton industry. The native fort, standing in the town, has been
converted into a Russian garrison, a battalion of the Turkestan Rifles
occupying the post.
The trade figures are:
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
10,008 8595
_Imports._ _Exports._
70,519 poods. 514,524 poods.
Melik, a small station occupying a position at the point where the line
from Tashkent meets the Zerafshan river has, unfortunately, nothing
with which to commend itself. The surrounding steppe is destitute of
vegetation and only sparsely inhabited. At Kizil Steppe, which follows,
there is a depôt and workshops for a permanent staff of eighteen men.
It stands within easy proximity of the four centres Cidj Duvan, Adiz
Abad, Vaganzi and Bustan, where there is a combined population of
20,000.
The trade passing through Kizil steppe for local centres is:
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
5780 6164
_Imports._ _Exports._
Goods 162,985 poods. Cotton 248,720 poods.
The cultivation of cotton is the prominent characteristic of this
region and Kuyu Mazar, the next station, entirely derives its
prosperity from the industry. In its immediate neighbourhood, moreover,
there are several _kishlaks_ devoted to it. A little further on
the line enters a region of sandy clay which, continuing for some
distance, finally gives place to the areas of the fertile oasis that
surrounds Bokhara.
[Illustration: AMIR’S PALACE, BOKHARA]
Kagan, the station for Bokhara, belongs to the first class. It is
situated 1182 versts from Krasnovodsk, 565 versts from Tashkent and
ranks third among the stations of the Central Asian Railway, only
yielding pride of place to Krasnovodsk and Askhabad. The station is
erected upon ground specially granted by the Amir for the purpose, the
Russian settlement of New Bokhara also being placed at this point. The
native town of Bokhara, the capital of the Khanate and connected with
the main station by a branch line, is 13 versts distant. It is the most
important centre in the Khanate and maintains commercial relations with
Moscow, Nijninovgorod, Lodz, Siberia, India, Persia and Afghanistan,
the annual value of its business running into many millions of roubles.
There are several banks but only two of importance--the Russian
Imperial Bank, and the Russo-Chinese Bank. The residence of the Russian
Political Agent is in New Bokhara and the Amir also has a place there,
constructed in hybrid Byzantine style.
The population of the Russian settlement, returned at 6000 inhabitants
and drawn from various nationalities, includes the following European
and Asiatic elements:
Russians 378
Poles 40
Germans 24
Greeks. 8
Armenians 124
Hindus 33
Afghans 24
Sarts 681
Persians 252
Kirghiz 92
Jews 345
The remainder is made up of subjects of the Amir. The Russian quarter
also contains 130 brick bungalows, an hospital with twenty beds,
barracks for the 3rd and 4th Companies of the Second Railway Battalion,
numerous shops and military go-downs.
The trade passing through Bokhara is very comprehensive. It embraces
cotton, skins, wool, cotton prints, sugar and a large importation
of Russian manufactures. The bazaars of the native city show a very
varied assortment of silken fabrics, copper-ware, silver-work, carpets,
leather and weapons, attracting traders from India and Persia, besides
the Turcoman and Khivan districts.
The figures for the year under review are:
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
40,468 42,660
_Imports._
Sugar (refined) 27,455 poods.
Sugar (sanded) 50,328 ”
Kerosene 59,580 ”
Naphtha (crude) }
” (refuse) } 41,462 ”
Yarn and thread 13,998 ”
Rice 346,940 ”
Green tea 61,924 ”
Black tea 21,711 ”
Iron 17,628 ”
Russian manufactures 154,272 ”
Various goods 1,955,519 ”
_Exports._
Cotton 456,584 poods.
Wool 67,144 ”
Skins 47,042 ”
Fruits (dried) 111,104 ”
Raisins 27,444 ”
Wine grapes 14,408 ”
Carpets 4,488 ”
Caracal 32,621 ”
Goods (various) 346,927 ”
[Illustration: THE DERVISHES OF BOKHARA]
The cultivated zone which lies around Bokhara and Kagan does not extend
for any considerable distance beyond the immediate precincts of the
capital of the Khanate. In running towards Merv the railway passes
through a region where the water difficulty is perpetual. The waterless
zone may be said to begin with Murgak, where water from the Zerafshan
river is supplied in tanks by the railway. This system is also adopted
for the next station, Yakatut, which although insignificant receives a
comparatively important volume of trade. Irrigation is not encouraged
and the water coming by the railway is very carefully distributed to
a population that, including the large village of Yakatut and a few
smaller hamlets, amounts in all to 3000 souls. The passenger traffic is
small and the returns only record the import and export movement:
_Imports._
Cotton seed 51,675 poods.
Goods (various) 3,615 ”
_Exports._
Wine grapes. 9,555 poods.
Goods (various) 36,467 ”
Kara Kul follows as the line runs towards the south and 10 versts
distant from it there is the native town of the same name. At one
time the centre of a large and flourishing oasis, the drifting sands
from the Kara Kum have encroached until it has been ruined and the
total population of the region reduced to 5000 people. The place is
watered by the Zerafshan, upon whose volume so much of the prosperity
of Bokhara depends. This river, which was called by the ancients the
Polytimaetus, takes its rise in the glaciers of the Kara mountains,
270 miles east of Samarkand. Its upper reaches resemble a succession
of cataracts and it is altogether too shallow for navigation. The
average width is 210 feet; more than 100 canals, some of which are 140
feet broad, are supplied from this source of Bokhara’s greatness. The
capital of the Khanate is fed by one of them, called the Shari Rud, and
over 35 feet in width. The river reaches its full volume during the
winter and the spring. Three versts before Kara Kul, at a point where
the stream breaks up into a series of small feeders, a wide bridge, 15
sagenes in length, affords passage to the railway.
In spite of diminishing importance Kara Kul still attracts and
disperses a certain volume of trade, the movement showing:
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
10,281 9442
_Imports._ _Exports._
305,749 poods. 190,445 poods.
the bulk of which is associated with the cotton factory of M. Levine
and a distillery controlled by a French syndicate, the two properties
being situated close to the station.
Beyond Kara Kul, as far as Khoja Davlet, there is a considerable area
of cultivation. With this station the agricultural possibilities of the
quarter, due in the main to irrigation by the waters of the Oxus, come
to an end and the line begins to pass through the shifting sands of
Sundukli. From this point, too, the growth of the saxaoul is promoted
as a protection to the railway from the sand drifts. At Farab station,
where the growth and cultivation of sand shrubs has been studied and
where there is a special nursery covering 5 dessiatines, some little
success in this direction has been attained. Unfortunately the moving
sands are the great and ever present menace to the prosperity of this
neighbourhood. In contrast with these outlying edges of the district
where there is nothing but a waste of salt marshes and sand dunes,
there is a wonderful wealth of vegetation along the banks of the river.
The station workshops, where some eighty workmen are daily employed,
the small hospital, the railway buildings and the technical school are
embowered by trees of the most luxuriant growth. None the less Farab,
although associated with the headquarters of the Oxus steamers, is too
close to Charjui to be of much importance.
The trade movement is:
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
13,045 15,441
_Imports._
Iron and steel 357,778 poods.
Merchandise. 3,717 ”
_Exports._
Cotton 35,905 poods.
Goods (various) 28,322 ”
Charjui, opposite to Farab at the crossing of the Oxus, lies 1070
versts from Krasnovodsk and 677 versts from Tashkent. The town is
situated in the midst of a fertile oasis lying along the banks of the
Amu Daria. The Russian settlement is close to the station, but 16
versts away there is the native centre from which it derives its name.
This border stronghold surmounts a hill to the south of the railway
line, bearing in its rugged outline a faint resemblance to Edinburgh
Castle. The settlement, nestling at its foot, contains the headquarters
of the 17th Turkestan Rifle Battalion. The local force amounts to
one battalion of Turkestan Rifles and one squadron of Cossacks. The
Russian quarter, built upon ground presented by the Amir to the Russian
Government, covers a wide area upon the left bank of the stream and
extends along both sides of the railway. The point is of extreme
interest, since it is here that the original bridge over the Amu Daria
was constructed. The new work, a magnificent steel girder affair only
lately opened, takes the place of the earlier wooden structure which,
some 4600 yards in length, withstood the effects of climate and the
stream for many years.
The trade and traffic of Charjui, one of the most active stations on
the Central Asian system, is as follows:
Passengers.
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
37,331 36,796
_Imports._
Military stores 280,399 poods.
Refined sugar 63,534 ”
Sanded sugar 20,043 ”
Yarn and thread 26,320 ”
Kerosene 95,303 ”
Timber 325,390 ”
Manufactures 45,661 ”
Iron 34,287 ”
Spirits 13,709 ”
Wine grapes 13,681 ”
Green tea 21,373 ”
Rice 48,876 ”
Wheat flour 117,593 ”
Goods, various 714,175 ”
_Exports._
Raisins. 10,985 poods.
Skins 12,321 ”
Manufactured goods 8,499 ”
Carpets 11,073 ”
Sheep skins 18,508 ”
Caracal 3,805 ”
Cotton seed 85,825 ”
Cotton. 516,641 ”
Wool 104,243 ”
Goods (various) 191,584 ”
The combined population of the town comprises 7569:
_Russians._ _Natives._
_Men._ _Women._ _Men._ _Women._
2247 1254 2651 1417
The Russian quarter contains:
Houses 469
Schools 3
General hospital 1
Military hospitals 2
Clubs 2
In addition to this there is an extensive botanical nursery, similar
to that which exists at Farab and devoted to the same purpose. Equally
with Farab it serves as headquarters for the Amu Daria flotilla,
which plies between Patta Hissar on the south and Petro Alexandrovsk
and Khiva on the north. Traffic upon the river has increased in
proportion to the development of trade along the Central Asian railway,
the steamer and general communication on the Amu Daria, taken in
conjunction with the caravan routes between Charjui and the outlying
parts of the Khanates of Bokhara and Khiva, combining to render it a
point of supreme importance.
[Illustration: THE KARA KUM--BLACK SANDS]
As soon as the Oxus and Charjui have been left behind only two stations
remain before the frontier of the Trans-Caspian province is reached.
One of these two places, Barkhani, a small station of the fifth class,
serves, with Charjui and Farab, for the experimental production of
desert shrubs. Between the Amu Daria and Barkhani the spreading
vegetation, which changes the banks of the Amu Daria into verdant
slopes, gives place to the Black Sands of Bokhara, the famous Kara
Kum Desert. Six versts beyond the second place, Karaul Kuyu, the line
crosses the Trans-Caspian frontier, proceeding through the heart of
the Kara Kum. The first station in the desert is Repetek, where there
is a small depôt and workshops for a permanent staff of ten men. The
water here, as well as for the next two stations, is brought from the
Amu Daria at Charjui or from the Murghab at Merv, according to the
direction in which the train may be travelling.
From Repetek the line enters the Merv district. Passing Pesski, Uch
Adja and Ravnina, the first and last of which belong to the fourth
degree and the remaining one to the third degree of stations, the
line runs into Annenkovo, named after the famous constructor of the
Trans-Caspian railway, General Annenkoff. The station itself lies
in a hollow and 4 versts before the train reaches it there begins
that wonderful growth which Nature herself has supplied to resist
the encroachment of the Black Sands. It is here that the desert
shrub saxaoul, with its long penetrating roots--the great stand-by
of the Russians in their fight against the sand--is encountered in
its native state. Although special nurseries have been established
at many stations for the cultivation of this shrub, the railway
authorities employ its roots for firewood, encouraging the Tekkes in
the surrounding districts to bring it into the yards. As instances of
the destruction with which this plant is assailed nearly 46,000 poods
of saxaoul root are supplied annually to the railway authorities by the
Tekkes at Ravnina, while 170,000 poods are brought to the authorities
at Annenkovo by the Tekke gatherers in that part, the activities of
these people creating a very serious prospect since the artificial
cultivation of the shrub in the nurseries does not keep pace with its
disappearance in the veldt.
[Illustration: MOSQUE AT BAIRAM ALI]
Beyond Annenkovo there is Kurban Kala. One verst further on this gives
place to Bairam Ali, 108 sagenes above sea-level. The station adjoins
the gardens of the Murghab Imperial Estate which, founded in 1887 by
Imperial enterprise, the Tsar having sanctioned the restoration of
certain irrigation works, has assisted in securing a full measure of
prosperity to these areas. Trim orchards and broad roads surround the
station where huge piles of cotton may be seen awaiting transport, the
evident prosperity of this smiling oasis affording striking contrast
with the spectacle of Old Merv. Ruins, revealing a sombre vista of
broken walls and shattered houses, the relics of a city which passed
into decay in 1784, cover a space of 40 square versts. It is the name
of the chief of that city that is now perpetuated in the adjoining
station, Bairam Ali. As the strong ruler of the country-side, he had
held in check the robber tribes until he and his city were overthrown
in their turn by Amir Murad, the founder of the Bokharan dynasty.
[Illustration: THE GUR AMIR]
The country round Bairam Ali is level and the place draws its water
from the Murghab river. Its commercial importance is progressing and,
at present, there is a steady volume of trade passing through it.
The official returns for Bairam Ali are:
_Imports._
Iron and steel 51,850 poods.
Goods (various) 93,763 ”
_Exports._
Cotton 300,000 poods.
Dried fruits }
Grape fruits } 43,761 ”
Rice }
The section of the railway from Tashkent now terminates at 905 versts
from Tashkent and 842 versts from Krasnovodsk, after crossing the
Tokhtamish arik by an eight-span iron girder bridge. This work rests
upon iron piles, the length of the spans being 15 sagenes each. The
commercial importance of Merv, in view of the rapid development of its
trade with the Murghab Valley and the surrounding oases of Yulatan,
Pendjeh and Tejend, imparts to the town an economic significance little
less than that which emanates from its strategic aspect. The movement
of trade, imported for its own consumption or distributed over the
neighbouring markets, is:
_Imports._ _Exports._
2,170,013 poods 900,953 poods;
the passenger traffic being:
_Arrivals._ _Departures._
25,524 23,964
The station of Merv, as the junction from which commences the Murghab
branch line, is particularly well constructed. There is a depôt
with spacious repairing yards and very commodious workshops, where
250 workmen are daily employed. In addition there are extensive
railway go-downs and quarters for the employés of the company. If
these represent merely the requirements of the station, in a more
general way there is an hospital with several beds, a building for
the accommodation of emigrants and, in the immediate precincts of the
station, barracks for the 2nd Trans-Caspian Railway Battalion. Close
to the station, which possesses special importance because of being
the only spot in a length of 200 versts up and down the line where
fresh water may be obtained, such water being derived from the Murghab
river, an iron bridge carries the railway across the river. The spans
of the bridge are 30 sagenes and a paved carriage-way is laid upon
either side of the metals. Beyond the bridge the road runs parallel
with the Central Asian railway until it reaches the Murghab river. Down
the banks of this stream it branches off towards the Kushk and Murghab
valleys, holding solitary communion with the Murghab valley railway as
far as the junction of the Pendjeh-Tanur Sangi extension with the line
to Kushkinski Post.
[Illustration: THE MILITARY QUARTER, MERV]
The appearance of Merv is monotonous. An absence of tropical foliage,
the conventional character of the bungalows and the broad, empty
streets compose an exterior which is altogether desolate. The high
temperature, which frequently exceeds 100 degrees, crushes initiative
and possibly it is due to the glare of the sun and the thick dust
which rises in white clouds from the roads, that the thoroughfares are
deserted between sunrise and sunset. The Murghab river divides the town
into a commercial quarter, prominently situated upon the right bank 133
sagenes above sea-level, and a military settlement upon the opposite
bank but connected by a pontoon bridge. Within the military quarter,
there are the barracks and the general offices of the Administration
as well as a large garrison hospital and a military club. The civil
section of the town contains a district hospital of fifteen beds and a
casino, supported by the Government. The native bazaar is remote.
[6] “The Heart of Asia.” F. H. Skrine and E. D. Ross.
[Illustration: THE AMU DARIA BRIDGE]