WITH THE ADVANCE OF SIR JOHN MOORE.
All arrangements being now in a state of forwardness, the army broke up
the camp of Queluz about the middle of October and, following different
routes and moving by regiments in succession, marched for Spain; and an
army in better heart, finer condition, or more gallantly commanded were
never produced by any nation upon earth. We, the 28th Regiment, marched
on the 14th. I recollect the date well, being on that day appointed to
the light company.
[Sidenote: CAPTAIN WILMOT’S GUNS.]
To attempt to give a daily account of our march to Salamanca is beyond
the scope of my memory; and even though I should be capable of so
doing, it would be attended with little more interest than mentioning
the names of the different towns and villages through which we passed
or describing the houses in which we were lodged at night. We marched
with the headquarters. On the route through Guarda one battery
of artillery accompanied us, whom Captain Wilmot commanded. They
consisted of six light six-pounders; and even these we had the greatest
difficulty in getting through the pass of Villavelha. The first gun
conveyed across had two drag-ropes attached, and to resist its rapidity
while being trailed downhill these ropes were held by as many soldiers
as the short and frequent turning of this zigzag descent would permit;
yet their resistance was scarcely sufficient to preserve the guns from
rolling over the precipice. This in a great measure arose from Captain
Wilmot having opposed locking any of the wheels, alleging that by so
doing the carriages would suffer materially, and consequently become
unserviceable much sooner.
Trailing the guns down in this manner was excessively laborious to
the soldiers, and not unattended with danger. Several men who could
not get clear of the ropes on suddenly coming to the sharp turns were
absolutely dragged through the walls which flanked the road. The
resistance necessary to check the velocity of even these light guns
must have been very great, for I can attest that there was not one
soldier of the 28th Light Company who had heels to his shoes after the
drag. They were a good deal shaken and much dissatisfied, considering
it a great hardship to have a pair of shoes destroyed in one day
without being allowed any remuneration.
Captain Wilmot, having witnessed the danger in which the first gun
frequently was of being precipitated over the flanking wall and
consequently lost, as well as the great risk to which the men were
exposed, and being still unwilling to lock the wheels, determined to
try the bed of the Tagus. In pursuance of this project he had the
horses of two or three guns harnessed to one gun at a time, and in
this manner passed the remainder of the guns in succession across the
stream, cheered by the whole of the men during the entire operation,
which lasted a considerable time, and was of course attended with much
fatigue and exertion. The guns during their passage were accompanied
by a part of the soldiers to give what assistance lay in their power,
in case of meeting obstacles in the bed of the river. The horses were
immersed above their bellies and the men up to their middles; yet
Captain Wilmot never quitted the stream, crossing and re-crossing
until all the guns were safely landed. The principal difficulty arose
in drawing them up the opposite bank, but this being an affair of mere
physical force all obstacles were soon overcome. After this, our first
check, we moved on cheerily, as is usual with soldiers, who never dwell
upon hardships a moment longer than their continuance.
Our next great annoyance, and I may add suffering, was caused by the
inclemency of the weather. On the day upon which we marched into
Guarda the 5th Regiment lost five men and the 28th Regiment two men,
who actually perished on the road in consequence of heavy rain which
incessantly fell during the whole day. A person who has never been out
of England can scarcely imagine its violence. Let him fancy himself
placed under a shower-bath with the perforations unusually large, the
water not propelled divergingly with a light sprinkling, but large
globular drops pouring down vertically and descending in such rapid
succession as to give the appearance rather of a torrent than a shower;
he may then form an idea of the rainy season which drenches Portugal
during the autumnal months. Exposed to such rain, we marched many miles
to gain the top of the hill upon which stands Guarda. Having at length
performed this harassing march, the regiments (I think three in number)
were lodged in large convents situated in the immediate suburbs, which
had been prepared for our reception. Immense fires were soon lit,
and the men commenced first wringing and then drying their clothing.
Rations were delivered as soon as possible, and the glad tidings of a
double allowance of rum loudly rang throughout the holy aisles.
The soldiers now began to forget what they had suffered during the day.
The business of cooking went on cheerfully, but from the blazing fires
which illumined the convent much precaution was necessary to preserve
the building from being burned. The men being made as comfortable as
circumstances would permit, and there being no accommodation for the
officers in the convent, they were as usual billeted upon private
houses in the town, each regiment leaving an officer in the convent to
preserve good order, for after hardship, as after victory, soldiers are
prone to commit excesses.
[Sidenote: WORDS OF SIR JOHN MOORE.]
In walking through the town next day but one (we halted there two
days), I met the Commander of the forces, accompanied by two of his
staff and one orderly dragoon. He rode to and fro in the street several
times, evidently in search of something. As I stood still, as if to
ask if I could be of any use, Sir John Moore rode up and asked me
if the men’s clothes and appointments were yet dry. I replied that
they were not perfectly so, but would be in the course of the day.
He expressed his satisfaction, adding: “You must march to-morrow
at all events. I shall not ask about your arms or ammunition; the
28th know their value too well to neglect them.” He then said that
his horse had just lost a shoe, for which he was in search. I also
searched for a moment, but to no purpose. The general then remarking
that no doubt he should find some place along the road to have his
horse shod, rode away. I mention this trifling circumstance, otherwise
uninteresting, because it illustrates Sir John Moore’s constant habit
of speaking to every officer of his army whom he met, whatever his
rank, asking such questions as tended to elicit useful information,
and in the most good-humoured and courteous manner making such remarks
as indirectly called forth the most strenuous endeavours of all to a
full discharge of their duties. But when he considered a more direct
interference requisite, he was prompt in showing it without partiality
and regardless of persons. An instance of this took place a few days
previous to our breaking up the camp at Queluz. On meeting an old
officer, with whom he was long acquainted and who was his countryman,
he asked him familiarly how he did. The officer answered, in the
manner which men in good health usually do, that he was perfectly
well, and he added: “I am totally at your Excellency’s service. I have
nothing to do.” He hinted perhaps that a staff employment would not
be unacceptable nor injurious to the service. Sir John Moore politely
bowed. Next day commanding officers were called upon to use every
exertion necessary to bring their regiments fully equipped into the
field with as little delay as possible, and to see that every officer
under their respective commands was employed with equal diligence as
themselves, which he feared was not the case, for no later than the
day before a major of a regiment told him that he had nothing to do.
He therefore held commanding officers responsible that the particular
duties of every officer should be clearly and distinctly pointed out;
and he added that this would forward the service and prevent discontent
from want of employment. I was acquainted with the individual alluded
to, a gallant officer who has since met the fate of a soldier in the
field of glory.
After two days’ halt at Guarda we continued our march without any other
interruption than the falling waters, and having traversed Portugal,
we on November 10th marched into Fuentes de Oñoro. This was the first
Spanish town we entered, and here we halted for the night.
[Sidenote: SPANIARDS AND PORTUGUESE.]
Villa Formosa, distant about two miles from Fuentes de Oñoro, is the
nearest frontier town to Spain on that road. The two nations are here
divided by a rivulet so inconsiderable that upon its being pointed out,
many of us stood over it with one foot in Portugal and the other in
Spain. But even if this national boundary had not been pointed out, we
should have immediately discovered upon entering the town that we were
no longer in Portugal. The difference was very striking and perceptible
even in the first Spanish glance which we encountered. During our march
through Portugal we mixed with people who in a manner looked up to us
and showed rather a grovelling deference. We now encountered a nation
whose inhabitants never regarded others as in any way superior to
themselves. Their greatest condescension in meeting any other people
was to consider them as equals; superiority they denied to all. The
Portuguese showed us the greatest hospitality and in the civilest
manner; yet their hospitality appeared the result of some obligation or
constraint, not unmixed with gratitude. The Spaniards, though equally
generous, were proudly hospitable. There hospitality was sincere,
and not marked or rendered cold by ostentation; it appeared to be
spontaneously offered, as mere matter of course, unconnected with other
sentiments, disdaining any consideration beyond the act itself. The
Portuguese, in his conversation, studied more the smooth arrangement of
his specious words than the laudable sentiments by which they should
be dictated. He endeavoured by many a ludicrous gesture and grotesque
posture to add that force to his subject which was wanting in matter;
and whatever might be the result he always retired fawningly. The
Spaniard, invariably polite in his language and dignified in attitude,
solely depended on the soundness of his argument, and talking looked
you full in the face. His words clearly expressed his thoughts, and he
felt hurt if obliged to repeat; and he concluded his discourse with
a graceful inclination of his person. The Portuguese are not so fine
or so handsome a race as the Spaniards, and in figure they are far
inferior. The females have all black eyes (lampblack, if you please),
but dim and dusky when compared to the brilliant black eyes of the
Spanish fair.
We passed the night at Fuentes de Oñoro with mingled feelings of
annoyance and pleasure, annoyed at not being able to join the
inhabitants in conversation, which in some degree we could do in
Portugal. I felt quite in the background, for from what little of the
Portuguese language I was enabled to pick up during the march, I had
acted as a kind of regimental interpreter. Pleasure we experienced at
the wonderful contrast between the people whom we had just quitted and
our present hosts, entirely in favour of the latter; and although we
did not understand their language, yet it fell so melodiously on the
ear that I for one could never after suffer the Portuguese dialect.
I remembered how Charles V. said, or was reputed to have said, that
whenever he wished to address his God he always did so in the Spanish
language.
Next day we marched to Ciudad Rodrigo, or the city of Don Roderick, the
last of the Visigoth monarchs who reigned in Spain. Here I was billeted
at the house of an hidalgo or nobleman, who treated me most hospitably,
and ordered my baggage-pony to be put into his private stable. But
the hatred which existed between the Spaniards and Portuguese seemed
to prevail even among their animals, for my unfortunate horse was so
kicked and maltreated that, after endeavouring to carry my baggage
to S. Martin del Rio, where we halted for the night, the poor animal
dropped down dead. Besides the inconvenience which his loss caused
me, I regretted his death very much. I purchased him at Queluz, near
Lisbon, and he always followed me through the camp, keeping up with my
pace like a dog.
On our next day’s march we again had some work with the artillery. The
bridge over the Huelva was too narrow for the guns; it was considered
that too much time would be occupied in marching over it; therefore
in courtesy it was left for the baggage animals. As we had become
partly amphibious by our aquatic march through Portugal, and being now
drenched by the incessant fall of rain, we forded the river, immersed
up to our hips and exposed at the same time to a heavy shower. This
operation performed, we pushed forward at a hasty pace to the town not
far distant from the bridge. Having here piled our arms, we returned
to the stream to aid the artillery, and hauled the guns safely across,
notwithstanding the depth and rapidity of the current, now literally a
torrent. Under the circumstances this duty was excessively fatiguing
and harassing; but the indefatigable zeal and anxiety which Captain
Wilmot showed during the whole of the march to bring his guns and
horses perfect into action, induced every individual willingly to come
forward and put his shoulder to the wheel.
[Sidenote: ADVANCE TO SALAMANCA.]
The next day’s march brought us to the celebrated city of Salamanca.
Our entrance into this city was attended with great excitement. It
was the goal for which we started from Queluz camp, and whenever any
unpleasant circumstance occurred during the march, Salamanca was loudly
vociferated by every lip to cheer us on. Here it was that we expected
to join the main body of our cavalry and artillery, who, in consequence
of the impracticability of moving them by any other road, were, with
four regiments of infantry, the whole amounting to about six thousand
men, marched through Alemtejo and Spanish Estremadura under the command
of Sir John Hope.
In this place we were in the immediate neighbourhood of foes, with
whom we so ardently desired to measure swords. The ardour was equal
on either side. The French, flushed with recent victories obtained in
Italy Germany and Spain, felt anxious to display their vaunted prowess,
national flexibility in manœuvre, and tactical experience gained
by all, enabling each individual to act independently when deemed
necessary. The British, on the other hand, with full confidence in the
result whenever they came in contact with their old foes, were desirous
to prove that though partially broken they never would bend; and,
proud of their ignorance of trifling detail and spurning individual
self-sufficiency, were always determined to fight to the last on the
ground where they stood. They restrained even their natural tendency to
rush forward from a full confidence in the judgment of their general,
who would move them at the right moment.
At length Sir John Hope arrived at Alba de Tormes within a few leagues
of us, on December 5th.