In the preparation of desserts, as in that of all other foods it is

essential that all material used shall be thoroughly good of its kind.

If bread is to be used, the crumbs should be dry and rather stale, but

on no account use that which is sour or moldy. Some housekeepers imagine

that if their bread happens to spoil and become sour, although it is

hardly palatable enough for the table, it may be advantageously used to

make puddings. It is indeed quite possible to combine sour bread with

other ingredients so as to make a pudding agreeable to the palate; but

disguising sour bread makes sweets and flavors by no means changes it

into a wholesome food. It is better economy to throw sour bread away at

once than to impose it upon the digestive organs at the risk of health

and strength.

Bread which has begun to show appearance of mold should never be used;

for mold is a poison, and very serious illness has resulted from the

eating of puddings made from moldy bread.

Eggs, to be used for desserts, should always be fresh and good. Cooks

often imagine that an egg too stale to be eaten in any other way will do

very well for use in cakes and puddings, because it can be disguised so

as not to be apparent to the taste; but stale eggs are unfit for food,

either alone or in combination with other ingredients. Their use is

often the occasion of serious disturbances of the digestive organs. Most

desserts in which eggs are used will be much lighter if the yolks and

whites are beaten separately. If in winter, and eggs are scarce, fewer

may be used, and two tablespoonfuls of dry snow for each omitted egg

stirred in the last thing before baking.

Milk, likewise, should always be sweet and fresh. If it is to be heated,

use a double boiler, so that there will be no danger of scorching. If

fresh milk is not available, the condensed milk found at the grocer's is

an excellent substitute. Dissolve according to directions, and follow

the recipe the same as with fresh milk, omitting one half or two thirds

the given amount of sugar.

If dried sweet fruits, raisins, or currants are to be used, look them

over carefully, put them in a colander, and placing it in a pan of warm

water, allow the currants to remain until plump. This will loosen the

dirt which, while they are shriveled, sticks in the creases, and they

may then be washed by dipping the colander in and out of clean water

until they are free from sediment; rinse in two waters, then spread upon

a cloth, and let them get perfectly dry before using.

It is a good plan, after purchasing raisins and currants, to wash and

dry a quantity, and store in glass cans ready for use. To facilitate the

stoning of raisins, put them into a colander placed in a dish of warm

water until plump; then drain, when the seeds can be easily removed.

For desserts which are to be molded, always wet the molds in cold water

before pouring in the desserts.

_SUGGESTIONS FOR FLAVORING, ETC._

TO PREPARE ALMOND PASTE.--Blanch the nuts according to directions

given on page 215. Allow them to dry thoroughly, and pound in a mortar

to a smooth paste. They can be reduced much easier if dried for a day or

two after blanching. During the pounding, sprinkle with a few drops of

cold water, white of egg, rose water, or lemon juice, to prevent them

from oiling.

COCOANUT FLAVOR.--Cocoanut, freshly grated or desiccated, unless in

extremely fine particles, is a very indigestible substance, and when its

flavor is desired for custards, puddings, etc., it is always better to

steep a few tablespoonfuls in a pint of milk for twenty minutes or a

half hour, and strain out the particles. The milk should not be allowed

to boil, as it will be likely to curdle. One tablespoonful of freshly

grated cocoanut or two of the desiccated will give a very pleasant and

delicate flavor; and if a more intense flavor is desired, use a larger

quantity.

ORANGE AND LEMON FLAVOR.--Orange or lemon flavor may be obtained by

steeping a few strips of the yellow part of the rind of lemon or orange

in milk for twenty minutes. Skim out the rind before using for desserts.

Care should be taken to use only the yellow part, as the white will

impart a bitter flavor. The grated rind may also be used for flavoring,

but in grating the peel, one must be careful to grate very lightly, and

thus use only the outer yellow portion, which contains the essential oil

of the fruit. Grate evenly, turning and working around the lemon, using

as small a surface of the grater as possible, in order to prevent waste.

Generally, twice across the grater and back will be sufficient for

removing all the yellow skin from one portion of a lemon. A well-grated

lemon should be of exactly the same shape as before, with no yellow skin

remaining, and no deep scores into the white. Remove the yellow pulp

from the grater with a fork.

TO COLOR SUGAR.--For ornamenting the meringues of puddings and

other desserts, take a little of the fresh juice of cranberries, red

raspberries, currants, black raspberries, grapes, or other colored

juices of fruits, thicken it stiff with the sugar, spread on a plate to

dry, or use at one. It may be colored yellow with orange peel strained

through a cloth, or green with the juice of spinach. Sugar prepared in

this manner is quite as pretty and much more wholesome than the colored

sugars found in market, which are often prepared with poisonous

chemicals.

FRUIT DESSERTS.

_RECIPES._

APPLE DESSERT.--Pare some large tart apples, remove the cores, put

into the cavities a little quince jelly, lemon flavored sugar, or grated

pineapple and sugar, according to the flavor desired. Have as many

squares of bread with the crust taken off as there are apples, and place

a filled apple on each piece of bread, on earthen pie plates; moisten

well with a little quince jelly dissolved in water, lemon juice, or

pineapple juice, according to the filling used. Cover closely, and bake

in a rather quick oven till the apples are tender. Serve with whipped

cream and sugar.

APPLE MERINGUE DESSERT.--Pare and core enough tart, easy-cooking

apples to make a quart when stewed. Cover closely and cook slowly till

perfectly tender, when they should be quite dry. Mash through a

colander, add a little sugar and a little grated pineapple or lemon

peel. Beat light with a silver fork, turn into a pudding dish, and brown

in a moderate oven ten or fifteen minutes. Then cover with a meringue

made with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the beaten whites of two eggs,

and return to the oven for a moment to brown. Serve cold.

APPLE ROSE CREAM.--Wash, core, slice, and cook without paring, a

dozen fresh snow apples until very dry. When done, rub through a

colander to remove the skins, add sugar to sweeten, and the whites of

two eggs; beat vigorously with an egg beater until stiff, add a

teaspoonful of rose water for flavoring, and serve at once, or keep on

ice. It is especially important that the apples be very dry, otherwise

the cream will not be light. If after rubbing through the colander,

there is still much juice, they should be cooked again until it has

evaporated; or they may be turned into a jelly bag and drained. Other

varieties of apple may be used, and flavored with pineapple or vanilla.

Made as directed of snow apples or others with white flesh and red

skins, the cream should be of a delicate pink color, making a very

dainty as well as delicious dessert.

APPLE SNOW.--Pare and quarter some nice tart apples. Those that

when cooked will be whitest in color are best. Put them into a china

dish, and steam until tender over a kettle of boiling water. When done,

rub through a colander or beat with a fork until smooth, add sugar to

sweeten and a little grated lemon rind, and beat again. For every cup

and a half of the prepared apple allow the white of one egg, which beat

to a stiff froth, adding the apple to it a little at a time, beating all

together until, when taken up in a spoon, it stands quite stiff. Serve

cold, with or without a simple custard prepared with a pint of hot milk,

a tablespoonful of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs.

BAKED APPLES WITH CREAM.--Pare some nice juicy sweet apples, and

remove the cores without dividing. Bake until tender in a covered dish

with a spoonful or two of water on the bottom. Serve with whipped cream.

Or, bake the apples without paring and when done, remove the skins, and

serve in the same manner. The cream may be flavored with a little lemon

or rose if desired. Lemon apples and Citron apples, prepared as directed

on pages 186 and 187, make a most delicious dessert served with whipped

cream and sugar, or with mock cream flavored with cocoanut.

BAKED SWEET APPLE DESSERT.--Wash and remove the cores from a dozen

medium-sized sweet apples, and one third as many sour ones, and bake

until well done. Mash through a colander to make smooth and remove the

skins. Put into a granite-ware dish, smooth the top with a knife, return

to the oven and bake very slowly until dry enough to keep its shape when

cut. Add if desired a meringue made by heating the white of one egg with

a tablespoonful of sugar. Cut into squares, and serve in individual

dishes. The meringue may be flavored with lemon or dotted with bits of

colored sugar.

BANANAS IN SYRUP.--Heat in a porcelain kettle a pint of currant and

red raspberry juice, equal parts, sweetened to taste. When boiling, drop

into it a dozen peeled bananas, and simmer very gently for twenty

minutes. Remove the bananas, boil the juice until thickened to the

consistency of syrup, and pour over the fruit. Serve cold.

BAKED BANANAS.--Bake fresh, firm, yelow bananas with the skins on

fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. Serve hot.

FRESH FRUIT COMPOTE.--Flavor three tablespoonfuls of sugar by

mixing with it a little of the grated yellow rind of an orange, or by

rubbing it over the orange to extract the oil. If the latter method is

used, the square lump sugar will be preferable. Pare, quarter, and slice

three medium-sized tart apples. Peel, remove the seeds, and cut in quite

fine pieces three oranges. Put the fruit in alternate layers in a glass

dish. Sweeten a cupful of fresh or canned raspberry juice with the

flavored sugar, and turn it over the fruit. Put the dish on ice to cool

for a half hour before serving.

GRAPE APPLES.--Sweeten a pint of fresh grape juice with a pint of

sugar, and simmer gently until reduced one third. Pare and core without

dividing, six or eight nice tart apples, and stew very slowly in the

grape juice until tender, but not broken. Remove the apples and boil the

juice (if any remain) until thickened to the consistency of syrup. Serve

cold with a dressing of whipped cream. Canned grape pulp or juice may be

utilized for this purpose. Sweet apples may be used instead of tart

ones, and the sugar omitted.

PEACH CREAM.--Pare and stone some nice yellow peaches, and mash

with a spoon or press through a colander with a potato masher. Allow

equal quantities of the peach pulp and cream, add a little sugar to

sweeten, and beat all together until the cream is light. Serve in

saucers or glasses with currant buns. A banana cream may be prepared in

the same manner.

PRUNE DESSERT.--Prepare some prune marmalade as directed on page

191. Put in a square granite-ware dish, which place inside another dish

containing hot water, and cook it in a slow oven until the marmalade is

dry enough to retain its shape when cut with a knife. If desired add a

meringue as for baked sweet apple dessert, dotting the top with pink

sugar. Serve in squares in individual dishes.

DESSERTS MADE OF FRUIT WITH GRAINS, BREAD, ETC.

_RECIPES._

APPLE SANDWICH.--Mix half a cup of sugar with the grated yellow

rind of half a lemon. Stir half a cup of cream into a quart of soft

bread crumbs; prepare three pints of sliced apples, sprinkled with the

sugar; fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of moistened crumbs and

sliced apples, finishing with a thick layer of crumbs. Unless the apples

are very juicy, add half a cup of cold water, and unless quite tart,

have mixed with the water the juice of half a lemon. Cover and bake

about one hour. Remove the cover toward the last, that the top may brown

lightly. Serve with cream. Berries or other acid fruits may be used in

place of apples, and rice or cracked wheat mush substituted for bread

crumbs.

APPLE SANDWICH NO. 2.--Prepare and stew some apples as for sauce,

allowing them to become quite dry; flavor with lemon, pineapples,

quince, or any desired flavor. Moisten slices of zwieback in hot cream

as for toast. Spread a slice with the apple mixture, cover with a second

slice of the moistened zwieback, then cut in squares and serve, with or

without a dressing of mock cream. If desired to have the sandwiches

particularly dainty, cut the bread from which the zwieback is prepared

in rounds, triangles, or stars before toasting.

BAKED APPLE PUDDING.--Pour boiling water over bread crumbs; when

soft, squeeze out all the water, and line the bottom and sides of an

oiled earthen pudding dish with the crumbs. Fill the interior with

sliced apples, and cover with a layer of bread crumbs. Bake in a covered

dish set in a pan of hot water, until the apples are tender; then remove

the cover and brown. Loosen the pudding with a knife, invert on a plate,

and it will turn out whole. Serve with sugar and cream.

BARLEY FRUIT PUDDING.--Mix together a pint of cold, well steamed

pearl barley, a cup of finely minced tart apples, three fourths of a cup

of chopped and seeded raisins, a third of a cup of sugar, and a cup of

boiling water and turn into a pudding dish; cover, and place the dish in

the oven in a pan of hot water, and bake slowly an hour and a half, or

until the water has become quite absorbed and the fruit tender. Serve

warm with a water, adding sugar to taste, and thickening with a half

teaspoonful of cornstarch. Any tart fruit jelly may be used, or the

pudding may be served with cream and sugar flavored with a little grated

lemon rind.

BARLEY FIG PUDDING.--One pint of well-steamed pearl barley, two

cups of finely chopped best figs, one half cup of sugar, one half cup of

thin sweet cream, and one and one half cups of fresh milk. Mix all

thoroughly, turn into an earthen pudding dish; place it in the oven in

a pan half full of hot water, and bake slowly till the milk is nearly

absorbed. The pudding should be stirred once or twice during the baking,

so that the figs will be distributed evenly, instead of rising to the

top.

BLACKBERRY CORNSTARCH PUDDING.--Take two quarts of well-ripened

blackberries which have been carefully looked over, put them into a

granite-ware boiler with half a cup of water, and stew for twenty

minutes. Add sugar to sweeten, and three heaping tablespoonfuls of

cornstarch rubbed to a cream with a little cold water. Cook until

thickened, pour into molds, and cool. Serve cold with milk or cream.

Other fresh or canned berries may be used in the same way.

COCOANUT AND CORNSTARCH BLANCMANGE.--Simmer two tablespoonfuls of

desiccated cocoanut in a pint of milk for twenty minutes, and strain

through a fine sieve. If necessary, add more cold milk to make a full

pint. Add a tablespoonful of sugar, heat to boiling, and stir in

gradually two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a very

little cold milk. Cook five minutes, turn into cups, and serve cold with

fruit sauce or cream.

CORNSTARCH BLANCMANGE.--Stir together two tablespoonfuls of

cornstarch, half a cup of sugar, the juice and a little of the grated

rind of one lemon; braid the whole with cold water enough to dissolve

well. Then pour boiling water over the mixture, stirring meanwhile,

until it becomes transparent. Allow it to bubble a few minutes longer,

pour into molds, and serve cold with cream and sugar.

CORNSTARCH WITH RAISINS.--Measure out one pint of rich milk. Rub

two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch perfectly smooth with a little of the

milk, and heat the remainder to boiling, adding to it a tablespoonful of

sugar. Add the braided cornstarch, and let it cook until it thickens,

stirring constantly. Then add a half cup of raisins which have been

previously steamed. This may be served hot with sugar and cream, or

turned into cups and molded, and served cold with lemon, orange, or

other fruit sauce for dressing.

CORNSTARCH WITH APPLES.--Prepare the cornstarch as in the preceding

recipe, omitting the raisins. Place in a pudding dish some lemon apple

sauce, without juice, about two inches deep. Pour the cornstarch over

it, and serve hot or cold with cream.

CORNSTARCH FRUIT MOLD.--Heat a quart of strawberry, raspberry, or

currant juice, sweetened to taste, to boiling. If the pure juice of

berries is used, it may be diluted with one cup of water to each pint

and a half of juice. Stir in four tablespoonfuls of cornstarch well

braided with a little of the juice reserved for this purpose. Boil until

the starch is well cooked, stirring constantly. Pour into molds

previously wet with cold water, and cool. Serve with cream and sugar. A

circle of fresh berries around the mold when served adds to its

appearance.

CORNSTARCH FRUIT MOLD NO. 2.--Wash, stone, and stew some nice

French prunes, add sugar to sweeten, and if there is not an abundance of

juice, a little boiling water. For every one fourth pound of prunes

there should be enough juice to make a pint in all, for which add two

tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, rubbed smooth in a little cold water, and

boil three or four minutes. Pour into cups previously wet in cold water,

and mold. Serve cold with whipped cream. Other dried or canned fruits,

as apricots, peaches, cherries, etc., may be used in place of prunes, if

preferred.

CRACKED-WHEAT PUDDING.--A very simple pudding may be made with two

cups of cold, well-cooked cracked wheat, two and a half cups of milk,

and one half cup of sugar. Let the wheat soak in the milk till

thoroughly mixed and free from lumps, then add the sugar and a little

grated lemon peel, and bake about three fourths of an hour in a moderate

oven. It should be of a creamy consistency when cold, but will appear

quite thin when taken from the oven. By flavoring the milk with

cocoanut, a different pudding may be produced. Rolled or pearl wheat may

be used for this pudding. A cupful of raisins may be added if desired.

CRACKED-WHEAT PUDDING NO. 2.--Four and one half cups of milk, a

very scant half cup of cracked wheat, one half cup of sugar; put

together in a pudding dish, and bake slowly with the dish covered and

set in a pan of hot water for three or four hours, or until the wheat is

perfectly tender, as may be ascertained by dipping a few grains with a

spoon out from the side of the dish.

FARINA BLANCMANGE.--Heat a quart of milk, reserving one half cup,

to boiling. Then add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and four heaping

tablespoonfuls of farina, previously moistened with the reserved half

cup of milk. Let all boil rapidly for a few minutes till the farina has

well set, then place in a double boiler, or a dish set in a pan of

boiling water, to cook an hour longer. Mold in cups previously wet with

cold water. Serve with sugar and cream flavored with vanilla or a little

grated lemon rind, mock cream, or cocoanut sauce.

Much variety may be given this simple dessert by serving it with a

dressing of fruit juices; red raspberry, strawberry, grape, current,

cranberry, cherry, and plum are all very good. If desired, the milk with

which the blancmange is prepared may be first flavored with cocoanut,

thus making a different blancmange. Fresh fruit, as sliced banana,

blueberries, or strawberries, lightly stirred in just before molding,

make other excellent varieties.

FARINA FRUIT MOLD.--Put a quart of well-sweetened red raspberry

juice into the inner cup of a double boiler. Heat to boiling, and stir

in four heaping tablespoonfuls of farina first moistened with a little

of the juice. Boil up until thickened, then set into the outer boiler,

the water in which should be boiling, and cook for one hour. Pour into

molds previously wet in cold water, and cool. Serve with whipped cream

or mock cream. Currant, strawberry, cherry, or blackberry juice may be

used instead of raspberry. If water be added to dilute the juice, a

little more farina will be needed.

FRUIT PUDDING.--Measure out one quart of rich new milk, reserving

half a pint to wet five large rounded tablespoonfuls of sifted flour.

Add to the milk one even cup of sugar, turn in the flour mixture and

heat to boiling in a farina kettle, stirring all the while to prevent

lumps, and cook till it thickens, which will be about ten minutes after

it begins to boil. Remove from the stove, and beat while it is cooling.

When cool, add sliced bananas or whole strawberries, whortleberries,

raspberries, blackberries, sliced apricots, or peaches. Serve cold.

JAM PUDDING.--Make a jam by mashing well some fresh raspberries or

blueberries and sweetening to taste. Spread over slices of fresh, light

bread or buns, and pile in layers one above another in a pudding dish.

Pour over the layers enough rich milk or thin cream heated to scalding,

to moisten the whole. Turn a plate over the pudding, place a weight upon

it, and press lightly till cold. Cut in slices, and serve with or

without a cream dressing.

PLAIN FRUIT PUDDING OR BROWN BETTY.--Chop together one part seeded

raisins and two parts good tart apples. Fill a pudding dish with

alternate layers of the fruit and bread crumbs, finishing with the bread

crumbs on top. Unless the apples are very juicy, moisten the whole with

a tablespoonful of lemon juice in a cup of cold water, for a pudding

filling a three-pint dish. Cover the dish and place it in a moderate

oven in a pan of hot water, and bake nearly an hour; then remove from

the pan, uncover, and brown nicely. Serve warm with cream and sugar, or

with an orange or lemon sauce. Seeded cherries may be used in place of

the apples and raisins. In that case, each layer of fruit should be

sprinkled lightly with sugar, and the water omitted.

PRUNE PUDDING.--Moisten rather thin slices of stale bread in hot

milk and place in a pudding dish with alternate layers of stewed prunes

from which the stones have been removed, finishing with bread on top.

Pour over the whole a little more hot milk or pure juice or both, and

bake in a moderate over three fourths of an hour. Serve hot or cold with

orange or lemon sauce.

RICE MERINGUE.--Steam a cupful of rice as directed on page 99 until

tender and dry. Heap it loosely on a glass dish, and dot with squares of

cranberry or currant jelly. Beat with the whites of two eggs to a stiff

froth with one third cup of sugar, and pile it roughly over the rice.

Serve with cream.

RICE SNOWBALL.--Wash a cupful of good rice and steam until half

done. Have pared and cored without dividing, six large, easy cooking

tart apples. Put a clean square of cheese cloth over a plate, place the

apples on it, and fill them and all the interstices between with rice.

Put the remainder of the rice over and around the apples; tie up the

cloth, and cook in a kettle of boiling water until the apples are

tender. When done, lift from the water and drain well, untie the cloth,

invert the pudding upon a plate and remove the cloth. Serve hot with

cream and sugar or cocoanut sauce.

RICE FRUIT DESSERT.--Cold boiled rice, molded so that it can be

sliced, may be utilized in making a variety of delicious desserts. A

nice pudding may be prepared by filling a dish with alternate layers of

half-inch slices of molded rice and grated tart raw apples the same

thickness. Grate a little lemon rind over each layer. Cover, and place

in the oven in a pan of boiling water, and bake for an hour. Serve with

sugar and cream. Stoned cherries or peaches may be used instead of the

apple.

RICE DUMPLING.--Steam a teacup of rice until tender, and line an

oiled earthen pudding dish, pressing it up around the sides and over the

bottom. Fill the crust thus made with rather tart apples cut in small

slices; cover with rice, and steam until the apples are tender, which

may be determined by running a broom-straw through them. Let stand until

cold, then turn from the dish, and serve with sugar and cream. Any easy

cooking tart fruit, as stoned cherries, gooseberries, etc., may be used

in place of the apples when preferred.

Science in the Kitchen A Scientific Treatise On Food Substances and Their Dietetic Properties, Together with a Practical Explanation of the Principles of Healthful Cookery, and a Large Number of Original, Palatable, and Wholesome Recipes · 第 26 / 50 段