THE BANANA.--This is essentially a tropical fruit growing very

generally in the East, the West Indies, South American countries, and

some of the Southern States. The plant is an annual, sending up stems to

the height of ten or fifteen feet, while drooping from the top are

enormous leaves three or four feet in length, and looking, as one writer

has aptly said, like "great, green quill pens." It is planted in fields

like corn, which in its young growth it much resembles. Each plant

produces a single cluster of from eighty to one hundred or more bananas,

often weighing in the aggregate as high as seventy pounds. The banana is

exceedingly productive. According to Humboldt, a space of 1,000 feet,

which will yield only 38 pounds of wheat, or 462 pounds of potatoes,

will produce 4,000 pounds of bananas, and in a much shorter period of

time. It is more nutritious than the majority of fruits, and in tropical

countries is highly valued as a food, affording in some localities the

chief alimentary support of the people. Its great importance as a food

product is shown by the fact that three or four good sized bananas are

equal in nutritive value to a pound of bread. The amount of albumen

contained in a pound of bananas is about the same as that found in a

pound of rice, and the total nutritive value of one pound of bananas is

only a trifle less than that of an equal quantity of the best beefsteak.

The unripe fruit, which contains a considerable percentage of starch, is

often dried in the oven and eaten as bread, which, in this state, it

considerably resembles in taste and appearance. Thus prepared, it may be

kept for a long time, and is very serviceable for use on long journeys.

The variety of the banana thus used is, however, a much larger kind

than any of those ordinarily found in our Northern markets, and is known

as the plantain. The dried plantain, powdered, furnishes a meal of

fragrant odor and bland taste, not unlike common wheat flour. It is said

to be easy of digestion, and two pounds of the dry meal or six pounds of

the fruit is the daily allowance for a laborer in tropical America.

THE PINEAPPLE.--This delicious fruit is a native of South America,

where it grows wild in the forests. It is cultivated largely in tropical

America, the West Indies, and some portions of Europe. The fruit grows

singly from the center of a small plant having fifteen or more long,

narrow, serrated, ridged, sharp-pointed leaves, seemingly growing from

the root. In general appearance it resembles the century plant, though

so much smaller that twelve thousand pineapple plants may be grown on

one acre. From the fibers of the leaves is made a costly and valuable

fabric called _pina_ muslin.

Nothing can surpass the rich, delicate flavor of the wild pineapple as

found in its native habitat. It is in every way quite equal to the best

cultivated variety. The most excellent pineapples are imported from the

West Indies, but are seldom found in perfection in out Northern markets.

FRESH FRUIT FOR THE TABLE.

All fruit for serving should be perfectly ripe and sound. Immature fruit

is never wholesome, and owing to the large percentage of water in its

composition, fruit is very prone to change; hence over-ripe fruit should

not be eaten, as it is liable to ferment and decompose in the digestive

tract.

Fruit which has begun, however slightly, to decay, should be rejected.

Juice circulates through its tissues in much the same manner as the

blood circulates through animal tissues, though not so rapidly and

freely. The circulation is sufficient, however, to convey to all parts

the products of decomposition, when only a small portion has undergone

decay, and although serious results do not always follow the use of

such fruit, it certainly is not first-class food.

If intended to be eaten raw, fruit should be well ripened before

gathering, and should be perfectly fresh. Fruit that has stood day after

day in a dish upon the table, in a warm room, is far less wholesome and

tempting than that brought fresh from the storeroom or cellar. All

fruits should be thoroughly cleansed before serving. Such fruit as

cherries, grapes, and currants may be best washed by placing in a

colander, and dipping in and out of a pan of water until perfectly

clean, draining and drying before serving.

_DIRECTIONS FOR SERVING FRUITS._

APPLES.--In serving these, the "queen of all fruits," much

opportunity is afforded for a display of taste in their arrangement.

After wiping clean with a damp towel, they may be piled in a fruit

basket, with a few sprigs of green leaves here and there between their

rosy cheeks. The feathery tops of carrots and celery are pretty for this

purpose. Oranges and apples so arranged, make a highly ornamental dish.

Raw mellow sweet apples make a delicious dish when pared, sliced, and

served with cream.

BANANAS.--Cut the ends from the fruit and serve whole, piled in a

basket with oranges, grapes, or plums. Another way is to peel, slice,

and serve with thin cream. Bananas are also very nice sliced, sprinkled

lightly with sugar, and before it had quite dissolved, covered with

orange juice. Sliced bananas, lightly sprinkled with sugar, alternating

in layers with sections of oranges, make a most delicious dessert.

CHERRIES.--Serve on stems, piled in a basket or high dish, with

bits of green leaves and vines between. Rows of different colored

cherries, arranged in pyramidal form, make also a handsome dish.

CURRANTS.--Large whole clusters may be served on the stem, and when

it is possible to obtain both red and white varieties, they make a most

attractive dish. Put them into cold water for a little time, cool

thoroughly, and drain well before using. Currants, if picked from the

stems after being carefully washed and drained, may be served lightly

sprinkled with sugar. Currants and raspberries served together, half and

half, or one third currants two thirds raspberries, are excellent. Only

the ripest of currants should be used.

GOOSEBERRIES.--When fresh and ripe, the gooseberry is one of the

most delicious of small fruits. Serve with stems on. Drop into cold

water for a few moments, drain, and pile in a glass dish for the table.

GRAPES.--Grapes need always to be washed before serving. Drop the

bunches into ice water, let them remain ten of fifteen minutes, then

drain and serve. An attractive dish may be made by arranging bunches of

different colored grapes together on a plate edged with grape leaves.

MELONS.--Watermelons should be served very cold. After being well

washed on the outside, put on ice until needed. Cut off a slice at the

ends, that each half may stand upright on a plate, and then cut around

in even slices. Instead of cutting through the center into even halves,

the melon may be cut in points back and forth around the entire

circumference, so that when separated, each half will appear like a

crown. Another way is to take out the central portion with a spoon, in

cone-shaped pieces, and arrange on a plate with a few bits of ice. Other

melons may be served in halves, with the seeds removed. The rough skin

of the cantaloupe should be thoroughly scrubbed with a vegetable brush,

then rinsed and wiped, after which bury the melon in broken ice till

serving time; divide into eighths or sixteenths, remove the seeds,

reconstruct the melon, and serve surrounded with ice, on a folded

napkin, or arranged on a bed of grape leaves. Do not cool the melon by

placing ice upon the flesh, as the moisture injures the delicate flavor.

ORANGES.--Serve whole or cut the skin into eighths, halfway down,

separating it from the fruit, and curling it inward, thus showing half

the orange white and the other half yellow; or cut the skin into

eighths, two-thirds down, and after loosening from the fruit, leave them

spread open like the petals of a lily. Oranges sliced and mixed with

well ripened strawberries, in the proportion of three oranges to a quart

of berries, make--a palatable dessert.

PEACHES AND PEARS.--Pick out the finest, and wipe the wool from the

peaches. Edge a plate with uniform sized leaves of foliage plant of the

same tints as the fruit, and pile the fruit artistically upon it,

tucking sprays or tips of the plant between. Bits of ice may also be

intermingled. Yellow Bartlett pears and rosy-cheeked peaches arranged in

this way are most ornamental.

PEACHES AND CREAM.--Pare the peaches just as late as practicable,

since they become discolored by standing. Always use a silver knife, as

steel soon blackens and discolors the fruit. If sugar is to be used, do

not add it until the time for serving, as it will start the juice, and

likewise turn the fruit brown, destroying much of its rich flavor. Keep

on ice until needed for the table. Add cream with each person's dish.

PINEAPPLES.--The pineapple when fresh and ripened to perfection, is

as mellow and juicy as a ripe peach, and needs no cooking to fit it for

the table. Of course it must be pared, and have the eyes and fibrous

center removed. Then it may be sliced in generous pieces and piled upon

a plate, or cut into smaller portions and served in saucers. No

condiments are necessary; even the use of sugar detracts from its

delicate flavor. Pineapples found in our Northern markets are, however,

generally so hard and tough as to require cooking, or are valuable only

for their juice, which may be extracted and used for flavoring other

fruits. When sufficiently mellow to be eaten raw, they are usually so

tart as to seem to require a light sprinkling of sugar to suit most

tastes. Pineapples pared, cut into dice or small pieces, lightly

sprinkled with sugar, to which just before serving, a cup of orange

juice is added, form a delicious dish.

PLUMS.--Plums make a most artistic fruit piece, served whole and

arranged with bunches of choice green grapes, in a basket or glass dish.

A fine edge may be made from the velvety leaves of dark purple foliage

plants.

PRESSED FIGS.--Look over carefully, and select only such as are

perfectly good. They may be served dry, mixed with bunches of raisins,

or steamed over a kettle of boiling water. Steamed figs make an

excellent breakfast dish, and are considered much more wholesome then

when used dry. Steamed raisins are likewise superior to dried raisins.

RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, DEWBERRIES, BLUEBERRIES AND WHORTLEBERRIES,

require careful looking over to remove all insects, stems, and over-ripe

fruit. Blueberries and whortleberries frequently need to be washed. They

are then drained by spreading on a sieve or colander. Perfectly ripe,

they are more healthful without condiments; but sugar and cream are

usually considered indispensable.

If necessary to wash strawberries, they should be put into cold water, a

few at a time, pushed down lightly beneath the water several times until

entirely clean, then taken out one by one, hulled, and used at once.

Like all other small fruits and berries they are more wholesome served

without cream, but if cream is used, each person should be allowed to

add it to his own dish, as it quickly curdles and renders the whole dish

unsightly; if allowed to stand, it also impairs the flavor of the fruit.

FROSTED FRUIT.--Prepare a mixture of the beaten white of egg,

sugar, and a very little cold water. Dip nice bunches of clean currants,

cherries, or grapes into the mixture; drain nearly dry, and roll lightly

in powdered sugar. Lay them on white paper to dry. Plums, apricots, and

peaches may be dipped in the mixture, gently sprinkled with sugar, then

allowed to dry. This method of preparing fruit is not to be commended

for its wholesomeness, but it is sometimes desirable for ornament.

KEEPING FRESH FRUIT.

Of the numerous varieties of fruits grown in this country, apples and

pears are about the only ones that can be kept for any length of time

without artificial means. As soon as fruit has attained its maturity, a

gradual change or breaking down of tissues begins. In some fruits this

process follows rapidly; in other it is gradual. There is a certain

point at which the fruits are best suited for use. We call it

mellowness, and say that the fruit is in "good eating condition." When

this stage has been reached, deterioration and rotting soon follow. In

some fruits, as the peach, plum, and early varieties of apples and

pears, these changes occur within a few days after maturity, and it is

quite useless to attempt to keep them; in others, like the later

varieties of apples and pears, the changes are slow but none the less

certain. To keep such fruits we must endeavor to retard or prolong the

process of change, by avoiding all conditions likely to hasten decay.

Even with ordinary care, sound fruit will keep for quite a length of

time; but it can be preserved in better condition and for a longer

period by careful attention to the following practical points:--

1. If the fruit is of a late variety, allow it to remain on the tree as

long as practicable without freezing.

2. Always pick and handle the fruit with the greatest care.

3. Gather the fruit on a dry, cool day, and place in heaps or bins for

two or three weeks.

4. Carefully sort and pack in barrels, placing those most mellow and

those of different varieties in different barrels; head the barrels,

label, and place in a cool, dry place where the temperature will remain

equable. Some consider it better to keep fruit in thin layers upon broad

shelves in a cool place. This plan allows frequent inspection and

removal of all affected fruit without disturbance of the remainder.

5. Warmth and moisture are the conditions most favorable to

decomposition, and should be especially guarded against.

6. The best temperature for keeping fruit is about 34° F., or 2° above

freezing.

Another method which is highly recommended is to sprinkle a layer of

sawdust on the bottom of a box, and then put in a layer of apples, not

allowing them to tough each other. Upon this pack more sawdust; then

another layer of apples, and so on until the box is filled. After

packing, place up from the ground, in a cellar or storeroom, and they

will keep perfectly, retaining their freshness and flavor until brought

out. The _Practical Farmer_ gives the following rough but good way to

store and keep apples: "Spread plenty of buckwheat chaff on the barn

floor, and on this place the apples, filling the interstices with the

chaff. Cover with the chaff and then with straw two or three feet deep.

The advantage of this is that covering and bedding in chaff excludes

cold, prevents air currents, maintains a uniform temperature, absorbs

the moisture of decay, and prevents the decay produced by moisture."

The ordinary cellar underneath the dwelling house is too warm and damp

for the proper preservation of fruit, and some other place should be

provided if possible. A writer in the _American Agriculturist_ thus

calls attention to an additional reason why fruit should not be stored

beneath living-rooms: "After late apples are stored for the winter, a

gradual change begins within the fruit. It absorbs oxygen from the air

of the room, and gives off carbonic acid gas. Another change results in

the formation of water, which is given off as moisture. The taking up of

oxygen by the fruit and the giving off of carbonic acid, in a short time

so vitiates the atmosphere of the room in which the fruit is kept, that

it will at once extinguish a candle, and destroy animal life. An

atmosphere of this kind tends to preserve the fruit. There being little

or no oxygen left in the air of the room, the process of decay is

arrested. Hence it is desirable that the room be air tight, in order to

maintain such an atmosphere."

The production of carbonic acid shows that a cellar in or under a

dwelling, is an improper place for storing fresh fruit. When the gas is

present in the air in sufficient proportion, it causes death, and a very

small quantity will cause headache, listlessness, and other unpleasant

effects. No doubt many troubles attributed to malaria, are due to gases

from vegetables and fruits stored in the cellar. A fruit cellar should

be underneath some other building rather than the dwelling, or a fruit

house may be built entirely above the ground. A house to keep fruit

properly must be built upon the principle of a refrigerator. Its walls,

floor, and ceiling should be double, and the space between filled with

sawdust. The doors and windows should be double; and as light is

undesirable, the windows should be provided with shutters. There should

be a small stove for use if needed to keep a proper temperature in

severe weather.

TO KEEP GRAPES.--Select such bunches as are perfect, rejecting all

upon which there are any bruised grapes, or from which a grape has

fallen. Spread them upon shelves in a cool place for a week or two. Then

pack in boxes in sawdust which has been recently well dried in an oven.

Bran which has been dried may also be used. Dry cotton is employed by

some. Keep in a cool place.

Some consider the following a more efficient method: select perfect

bunches, and dip the broken end of the stems in melted paraffine or

sealing wax. Wrap separately in tissue paper, hang in a cool place, or

pack in sawdust.

TO KEEP LEMONS AND ORANGES.--Lemons may be kept fresh for weeks by

placing them in a vessel of cold water in a very cool cellar or ice

house. Change the water every day. Oranges may be kept in the same way.

The usual method employed by growers for keeping these fruits is to wrap

each one separately in tissue paper, and put in a cool, dry place.

TO KEEP CRANBERRIES.--Put them in water and keep in a cool place

where they will not freeze. Change the water often, and sort out berries

which may have become spoiled.

COOKED FRUIT.

Perfectly ripe fruit is, as a rule, more desirable used fresh than in

any other way. Fruits which are immature, require cooking. Stewing and

baking are the simplest methods of preparation.

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS FOR COOKING FRUIT.--The utensils for stewing

should be porcelain-lined, or granite ware. Fruit cooked in tin loses

much of its delicate flavor; while if it be acid, and the tin of poor

quality, there is always danger that the acid of the fruit acting upon

the metal will form a poisonous compound. Cover with a china plate or

granite-ware cover, never with a tin one, as the steam will condense and

run down into the kettle, discoloring the contents. Use only silver

knives for preparing the fruit, and silver or wooden spoons for

stirring. Prepare just before cooking, if you would preserve the fruit

perfect in flavor, and unimpaired by discoloration. In preparing apples,

pears, and quinces for stewing, it is better to divide the fruit into

halves or quarters before paring. The fruit is more easily handled, can

be pared thinner and cored more quickly. Peaches, apricots, and plums,

if divided and stoned before paring, can be much more easily kept whole.

Cook in a small quantity of boiling water, and if economy is a point to

be considered, do not add sugar until the fruit is done. Sugar boiled

with an acid will be converted into glucose, two and one half pounds of

which only equal one pound of cane sugar in sweetening properties. It

will require a much larger amount of sugar to sweeten fruit if added

before the cooking process is completed. Fruit should be cooked by

stewing, or by gentle simmering; hard boiling will destroy the fine

flavor of all fruits, and especially of berries and other small fruits.

Cinnamon, cloves, or other spices, should not be added, as their

stronger flavors deaden or obliterate the natural flavor, which should

always be preserved as perfectly as possible. If desirable to add some

foreign flavor, let it be the flavor of another fruit, or the perfume

of flowers. For Instance, flavor apple with lemon, pineapple, quince, or

rose water.

Unripe fruit is improved by making the cooking quite lengthy, which acts

in the place of the ripening process, changing the starchy matter to

saccharine elements. In cooking fruit, try to preserve its natural form.

The more nearly whole it is, the better it looks, and the more natural

will be its flavor.

Apples are best cooked by baking. Pears and quinces are also excellent

baked. The oven should be only moderately hot; if the heat is too great,

they brown on the outside before they are done throughout. In cooking

fruit by any method, pains should be taken to cook together such as are

of the same variety, size, and degree of hardness; if it is to be cut in

pieces, care should be taken to have the pieces of uniform size.

_RECIPES._

BAKED APPLES.--Moderately tart apples or very juicy sweet ones are

best for baking. Select ripe apples, free from imperfections, and of

nearly equal size. Wipe carefully and remove the blossom ends. Water

sufficient to cover bottom of the baking dish, should be added if the

fruit is not very juicy. If the apples are sour and quite firm, a good

way is to pare them before baking, and then place them in an earthen pie

dish with a little hot water. If they incline to brown too quickly,

cover the tops with a granite-ware pie dish. If the syrup dries out, add

a little more hot water. When done, set them away till nearly cold, then

transfer to a glass dish, pour the syrup, which should be thick and

amber colored, over them. Sour apples are excellent pared, cored, and

baked with the centers filled with sugar, jelly, or a mixture or chopped

raisins and dates. They should be put into a shallow earthen dish with

water sufficient to cover the bottom, and baked in a quick oven, basting

often with the syrup. Sweet apples are best baked without paring. Baked

apples are usually served as a relish, but with a dressing of cream they

make a most delicious dessert.

CITRON APPLES.--Select a few tart apples of the same degree of

hardness, and remove the cores. Unless the skins are very tender, it is

better to pare them. Fill the cavities with sugar, first placing in each

apple a few bits of chopped citron. If the skins have been removed,

place the stuffed apples on a flat earthen dish with a tablespoonful of

water on the bottom; cover closely, and bake till perfectly tender, but

not till they have fallen to pieces. If the skins are left on, they may

be baked without covering. When cold, serve in separate dishes, with or

without a spoonful or two of whipped cream on each apple.

LEMON APPLES.--Prepare tart apples the same as for citron apples.

Fill the cavities made by removing the cores with a mixture of grated

lemon and sugar, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over each apple, and

bake. Serve with or without whipped cream.

BAKED PEARS.--Hard pears make an excellent dessert when baked.

Pare, halve, remove seeds, and place in a shallow earthen dish, with a

cup of water to each two quarts of fruit. If the pears are sour, a

little sugar may be added. Bake, closely covered, in a moderate oven

until tender. Serve with sugar and cream. Tart pears are the best for

baking, as the sweet varieties are often tasteless.

BAKED QUINCES.--Pare and remove the cores. Fill the cavities with

sugar, put in a shallow earthen dish, and add water to cover the bottom;

bake till soft, basting often with the syrup. If the syrup dries out

before the fruit is perfectly tender, add a little more hot water.

PIPPINS AND QUINCE.--Pare and quarter nice golden pippins, and cook

in boiling water until reduced to a jelly. Add two or three quinces

sliced, and simmer slowly in the jelly until the quince is tender. Add

sugar to taste. Serve cold.

BAKED APPLE SAUCE.--Pare, core, and quarter apples to fill an

earthen crock or deep pudding dish, taking care to use apples of the

same degree of hardness, and pieces of the same size. For two quarts of

fruit thus prepared, add a cup of water, and if the apples are sour, a

cup of sugar. Cover closely, and bake in a moderate oven several hours,

or until of a dark red color.

Sweet apples and quinces in the proportion of two parts of apple to one

of quince, baked in this way, are also good. Cut the apples into

quarters, but slice the quinces much thinner, as they are more difficult

to cook. Put a layer of quince on the bottom of the dish, alternating

with a layer of apple, until the dish is full. Add cold water to half

cover the fruit, and stew in the oven well covered, without stirring,

until tender.

Pears may be cooked in a similar way, and both apples and pears thus

cooked may be canned while hot and kept for a long period.

BAKED APPLE SAUCE NO. 2.--Prepare nice tart apples as for No. 1.

Bake, with a small quantity of water, in a covered pudding dish, in a

moderate oven, until soft. Mash with a spoon, add sugar, and when cold,

a little grated orange rind.

APPLES STEWED WHOLE.--Take six large red apples, wash carefully,

and put in a fruit kettle with just enough boiling water to cover. Cover

the kettle, and cook slowly until the apples are soft, with the skins

broken and the juice a rich red color. After removing the apples, boil

the juice to a syrup, sweeten, and pour over the apples.

Science in the Kitchen A Scientific Treatise On Food Substances and Their Dietetic Properties, Together with a Practical Explanation of the Principles of Healthful Cookery, and a Large Number of Original, Palatable, and Wholesome Recipes · 第 15 / 50 段