_Battle Creek, April 20, 1892._

Foods

The purposes of food are to promote growth, to supply force and heat,

and to furnish material to repair the waste which is constantly taking

place in the body. Every breath, every thought, every motion, wears out

some portion of the delicate and wonderful house in which we live.

Various vital processes remove these worn and useless particles; and to

keep the body in health, their loss must be made good by constantly

renewed supplies of material properly adapted to replenish the worn and

impaired tissues. This renovating material must be supplied through the

medium of food and drink, and the best food is that by which the desired

end may be most readily and perfectly attained. The great diversity in

character of the several tissues of the body, makes it necessary that

food should contain a variety of elements, in order that each part may

be properly nourished and replenished.

THE FOOD ELEMENTS.--The various elements found in food are the

following: Starch, sugar, fats, albumen, mineral substances,

indigestible substances.

The digestible food elements are often grouped, according to their

chemical composition, into three classes; _vis._, carbonaceous,

nitrogenous, and inorganic. The carbonaceous class includes starch,

sugar, and fats; the nitrogenous, all albuminous elements; and the

inorganic comprises the mineral elements.

_Starch_ is only found in vegetable foods; all grains, most vegetables,

and some fruits, contain starch in abundance. Several kinds of _sugar_

are made in nature's laboratory; _cane_, _grape_, _fruit_, and _milk_

sugar. The first is obtained from the sugar-cane, the sap of maple

trees, and from the beet root. Grape and fruit sugars are found in most

fruits and in honey. Milk sugar is one of the constituents of milk.

Glucose, an artificial sugar resembling grape sugar, is now largely

manufactured by subjecting the starch of corn or potatoes to a chemical

process; but it lacks the sweetness of natural sugars, and is by no

means a proper substitute for them. _Albumen_ is found in its purest,

uncombined state in the white of an egg, which is almost wholly composed

of albumen. It exists, combined with other food elements, in many other

foods, both animal and vegetable. It is found abundant in oatmeal, and

to some extent in the other grains, and in the juices of vegetables. All

natural foods contain elements which in many respects resemble

_albumen_, and are so closely allied to it that for convenience they are

usually classified under the general name of "albumen." The chief of

these is _gluten_, which is found in wheat, rye, and barley. _Casein_,

found in peas, beans, and milk, and the _fibrin_ of flesh, are elements

of this class.

_Fats_ are found in both animal and vegetable foods. Of animal fats,

butter and suet are common examples. In vegetable form, fat is abundant

in nuts, peas, beans, in various of the grains, and in a few fruits, as

the olive. As furnished by nature in nuts, legumes, grains, fruits, and

milk, this element is always found in a state of fine subdivision, which

condition is the one best adapted to its digestion. As most commonly

used, in the form of free fats, as butter, lard, etc., it is not only

difficult of digestion itself, but often interferes with the digestion

of the other food elements which are mixed with it. It was doubtless

never intended that fats should be so modified from their natural

condition and separated from other food elements as to be used as a

separate article of food. The same may be said of the other carbonaceous

elements, sugar and starch, neither of which, when used alone, is

capable of sustaining life, although when combined in a proper and

natural manner with other food elements, they perform a most important

part in the nutrition of the body. Most foods contain a percentage of

the _mineral_ elements. Grains and milk furnish these elements in

abundance. The cellulose, or woody tissue, of vegetables, and the bran

of wheat, are examples of _indigestible_ elements, which although they

cannot be converted into blood in tissue, serve an important purpose by

giving bulk to the food.

With the exception of gluten, none of the food elements, when used

alone, are capable of supporting life. A true food substance contains

some of all the food elements, the amount of each varying in different

foods.

USES OF THE FOOD ELEMENTS.--Concerning the purpose which these

different elements serve, it has been demonstrated by the experiments of

eminent physiologists that the carbonaceous elements, which in general

comprise the greater bulk of the food, serve three purposes in the body;

1. They furnish material for the production of heat;

2. They are a source of force when taken in connection with other food

elements;

3. They replenish the fatty tissues of the body. Of the carbonaceous

elements,--starch, sugar, and fats,--fats produce the greatest amount of

heat in proportion to quantity; that is, more heat is developed from a

pound of fat than from an equal weight of sugar or starch; but this

apparent advantage is more than counterbalanced by the fact that fats

are much more difficult of digestion than are the other carbonaceous

elements, and if relied upon to furnish adequate material for bodily

heat, would be productive of much mischief in overtaxing and producing

disease of the digestive organs. The fact that nature has made a much

more ample provision of starch and sugars than of fats in man's natural

diet, would seem to indicate that they were intended to be the chief

source of carbonaceous food; nevertheless, fats, when taken in such

proportion as nature supplies them, are necessary and important food

elements.

The nitrogenous food elements especially nourish the brain, nerves,

muscles, and all the more highly vitalized and active tissues of the

body, and also serve as a stimulus to tissue change. Hence it may be

said that a food deficient in these elements is a particularly poor

food.

The inorganic elements, chief of which are the phosphates, in the

carbonates of potash, soda, and lime, aid in furnishing the requisite

building material for bones and nerves.

PROPER COMBINATIONS OF FOODS.--While it is important that our food

should contain some of all the various food elements, experiments upon

both animals and human beings show it is necessary that these elements,

especially the nitrogenous and carbonaceous, be used in certain definite

proportions, as the system is only able to appropriate a certain amount

of each; and all excess, especially of nitrogenous elements, is not only

useless, but even injurious, since to rid the system of the surplus

imposes an additional task upon the digestive and excretory organs. The

relative proportion of these elements necessary to constitute a food

which perfectly meets the requirements of the system, is six of

carbonaceous to one of nitrogenous. Scientists have devoted much careful

study and experimentation to the determination of the quantities of each

of the food elements required for the daily nourishment of individuals

under the varying conditions of life, and it has come to be commonly

accepted that of the nitrogenous material which should constitute one

sixth of the nutrients taken, about _three ounces_ is all that can be

made use of in twenty-four hours, by a healthy adult of average weight,

doing a moderate amount of work. Many articles of food are, however,

deficient in one or the other of these elements, and need to be

supplemented by other articles containing the deficient element in

superabundance, since to employ a dietary in which any one of the

nutritive elements is lacking, although in bulk it may be all the

digestive organs can manage, is really starvation, and will in time

occasion serious results.

It is thus apparent that much care should be exercised in the selection

and combination of food materials. The table on page 484, showing the

nutritive values of various foods, should be carefully studied. Such

knowledge is of first importance in the education of cooks and

housekeepers, since to them falls the selection of the food for the

daily needs of the household; and they should not only understand what

foods are best suited to supply these needs, but how to combine them in

accordance with physiological laws.

CONDIMENTS.--By condiments are commonly meant such substances as

are added to season food, to give it "a relish" or to stimulate

appetite, but which in themselves possess no real food value. To this

category belong mustard, ginger, pepper, pepper sauce, Worcestershire

sauce, cloves, spices, and other similar substances. That anything is

needed to disguise or improve the natural flavor of food, would seem to

imply either that the article used was not a proper alimentary

substance, or that it did not answer the purpose for which the Creator

designed it. True condiments, such as pepper, pepper sauce, ginger,

spice, mustard, cinnamon, cloves, etc., are all strong irritants. This

may be readily demonstrated by their application to a raw surface. The

intense smarting and burning occasioned are ample evidence of the

irritating character. Pepper and mustard are capable of producing

powerfully irritating effects, even when applied to the healthy skin

where wholly intact. It is surprising that it does not occur to the

mother who applies a mustard plaster to the feet of her child, to

relieve congestion of the brain, that an article which is capable of

producing a blister upon the external covering of the body, is quite as

capable of producing similar effects when applied to the more sensitive

tissues within the body. The irritating effects of these substances upon

the stomach are not readily recognized, simply because the stomach is

supplied with very few nerves of sensation. That condiments induce an

intense degree of irritation of the mucous membrane of the stomach, was

abundantly demonstrated by the experiments of Dr. Beaumont upon the

unfortunate Alexis St. Martin. Dr. Beaumont records that when St. Martin

took mustard, pepper, and similar condiments with his food, the mucous

membrane of his stomach became intensely red and congested, appearing

very much like an inflamed eye. It is this irritating effect of

condiments which gives occasion for their extended use. They create an

artificial appetite, similar to the incessant craving of the chronic

dyspeptic, whose irritable stomach is seldom satisfied. This fact with

regard to condiments is a sufficient argument against their use, being

one of the greatest causes of gluttony, since they remove the sense of

satiety by which Nature says, "Enough."

To a thoroughly normal and unperverted taste, irritating condiments of

all sorts are very obnoxious. It is true that Nature accommodates

herself to their use with food to such a degree that they may be

employed for years without apparently producing very grave results; but

this very condition is a source of injury, since it is nothing more nor

less than the going to sleep of the sentinels which nature has posted at

the portal of the body, for the purpose of giving warning of danger. The

nerves of sensibility have become benumbed to such a degree that they no

longer offer remonstrance against irritating substances, and allow the

enemy to enter into the citadel of life. The mischievous work is thus

insidiously carried on year after year until by and by the individual

breaks down with some chronic disorder of the liver, kidneys, or some

other important internal organ. Physicians have long observed that in

tropical countries where curry powder and other condiments are very

extensively used, diseases of the liver, especially acute congestion and

inflammation, are exceedingly common, much more so that in countries and

among nations where condiments are less freely used. A traveler in

Mexico, some time ago, described a favorite Mexican dish as composed of

layers of the following ingredients: "Pepper, mustard, ginger, pepper,

potato, ginger; mustard, pepper, potato, mustard, ginger, pepper." The

common use of such a dish is sufficient cause for the great frequency of

diseases of the liver among the Mexicans, noted by physicians traveling

in that country. That the use of condiments is wholly a matter of habit

is evident from the fact that different nations employ as condiments

articles which would be in the highest degree obnoxious to people of

other countries. For example, the garlic so freely used in Russian

cookery, would be considered by Americans no addition to the natural

flavors of food; and still more distasteful would be the asafetida

frequently used as a seasoning in the cuisine of Persia and other

Asiatic countries.

The use of condiments is unquestionably a strong auxiliary to the

formation of a habit of using intoxicating drinks. Persons addicted to

the use of intoxicating liquors are, as a rule, fond of stimulating and

highly seasoned foods; and although the converse is not always true, yet

it is apparent to every thoughtful person, that the use of a diet

composed of highly seasoned and irritating food, institutes the

conditions necessary for the acquirement of a taste for intoxicating

liquors. The false appetite aroused by the use of food that "burns and

stings," craves something less insipid than pure cold water to keep up

the fever the food has excited. Again, condiments, like all other

stimulants, must be continually increased in quantity, or their effect

becomes diminished; and this leads directly to a demand for stronger

stimulants, both in eating and drinking, until the probable tendency is

toward the dram-shop.

A more serious reason why high seasonings leads to intemperance, is in

the perversion of the use of the sense of taste. Certain senses are

given us to add to our pleasure as well as for the practical, almost

indispensable, use they are to us. For instance, the sense of sight is

not only useful, but enables us to drink in beauty, if among beautiful

surroundings, without doing us any harm. The same of music and other

harmonics which may come to us through the sense of hearing. But the

sense of taste and was given us to distinguish between wholesome and

unwholesome foods, and cannot be used for merely sensuous gratification,

without debasing and making of it a gross thing. An education which

demands special enjoyment or pleasure through the sense of taste, is

wholly artificial; it is coming down to the animal plane, or below it

rather; for the instinct of the brute creation teaches it merely to eat

to live.

Yet how wide-spread is this habit of sensuous gratification through the

sense of taste! If one calls upon a neighbor, he is at once offered

refreshments of some kind, as though the greatest blessing of life came

from indulging the appetite. This evil is largely due to wrong

education, which begins with childhood. When Johnnie sits down to the

table, the mother says, "Johnnie, what would you like?" instead of

putting plain, wholesome food before the child, and taking it as a

matter of course that he will eat it and be satisfied. The child grows

to think that he must have what he likes, whether it is good for him or

not. It is not strange that an appetite thus pampered in childhood

becomes uncontrollable at maturity; for the step from gormandizing to

intoxication is much shorter than most people imagine. The natural,

unperverted taste of a child will lead him to eat that which is good for

him. But how can we expect the children to reform when the parents

continually set them bad examples in the matter of eating and drinking?

The cultivation of a taste for spices is a degradation of the sense of

taste. Nature never designed that pleasure should be divorced from use.

The effects of gratifying the sense of taste differ materially from

those of gratifying the higher senses of sight and hearing. What we see

is gone; nothing remains but the memory, and the same is true of the

sweetest sounds which may reach us through the ears. But what we taste

is taken into the stomach and what has thus given us brief pleasure

through the gratification of the palate, must make work in the

alimentary canal for fourteen hours before it is disposed of.

VARIETY IN FOOD.--Simplicity of diet should be a point of first

consideration with all persons upon whom falls the responsibility of

providing the family bills of fare, since the simplest foods are, as a

rule, the most healthful. Variety is needed; that is, a judicious

mingling of fruits, grains, and vegetables; but the general tendency is

to supply our tables with too many kinds and to prepare each dish in the

most elaborate manner, until, in many households, the cooking of food

has come to be almost the chief end of life. While the preparation of

food should be looked upon as of so much importance as to demand the

most careful consideration and thought as to its suitability,

wholesomeness, nutritive qualities, and digestibility, it should by no

means be made to usurp the larger share of one's time, when simpler

foods and less labor would afford the partakers equal nourishment and

strength.

A great variety of foods at one meal exerts a potent influence in

creating a love of eating, and is likewise a constant temptation to

overeat. Let us have well-cooked, nutritious, and palatable food, and

plenty of it; variety from day to day, but not too great a variety at

each meal.

The prevalent custom of loading the table with a great number of viands,

upon occasions when guests are to be entertained in our homes, is one to

be deplored, since it is neither conducive to good health nor necessary

to good cheer, but on the contrary is still laborious and expensive a

practice that many are debarred from social intercourse because they

cannot afford to entertain after the fashion of their neighbors. Upon

this subject a well-known writer has aptly said: "Simplify cookery, thus

reducing the cost of living, and how many longing individuals would

thereby be enabled to afford themselves the pleasure of culture and

social intercourse! When the barbarous practice of stuffing one's guests

shall have been abolished, a social gathering will not then imply, as it

does now, hard labor, expensive outlay, and dyspepsia. Perhaps when that

time arise, we shall be sufficiently civilized to demand pleasures of a

higher sort. True, the entertainments will then, in one sense, be more

costly, as culture is harder to come by than cake. The profusion of

viands now heaped upon the table, betrays poverty of the worst sort.

Having nothing better to offer, we offer victuals; and this we do with

something of that complacent, satisfied air with which some more

northern tribes present their tidbits of whale and walrus."

TABLE TOPICS.

"Let appetite wear reason's golden chain,

and find in due restrain its luxury."

A man's food, when he has the means and opportunity of selecting it,

suggests his moral nature. Many a Christian is trying to do by

prayer that which cannot be done except through corrected

diet.--_Talmage._

Our pious ancestors enacted a law that suicides should be buried

where four roads meet, and that a cart-load of stones should be

thrown upon the body. Yet, when gentlemen or ladies commit suicide,

not by cord or steel, but by turtle soup or lobster salad, they may

be buried on consecrated ground, and the public are not ashamed to

read an epitaph upon their tombstones false enough to make the

marble blush.--_Horace Mann._

It is related by a gentleman who had an appointment to breakfast

with the late A.T. Stewart, that the butler placed before them both

an elaborate bill of fare; the visitor selected a list of rare

dishes, and was quite abashed when Mr. Stewart said, "Bring me my

usual breakfast,--oatmeal and boiled eggs." He then explained to his

friend that he found simple food a necessity to him, otherwise he

could not think clearly. That unobscured brain applied to nobler

ends would have won higher results, but the principle remains the

same.--_Sel._

Study simplicity in the number of dishes, and a variety in the

character of the meals.--_Sel._

I have come to the conclusion that more than half the disease which

embitters life is due to avoidable errors in diet, ... and that more

mischief, in the form of actual disease, of impaired vigor, and of

shortened life, accrues to civilized man from erroneous habits of

eating than from the habitual use of alcoholic drink, considerable

as I know that evil to be.--_Sir Henry Thompson._

The ancient Gauls, who were a very brave, strong, and hearty race,

lived very abstemiously. Their food was milk, berries, and herbs.

They made bread of nuts. They had a very peculiar fashion of wearing

a metal ring around the body, the size of which was regulated by act

of Parliament. Any man who outgrew in circumference his metal ring

was looked upon as a lazy glutton, and consequently was disgraced.

To keep in health this rule is wise:

Eat only when you need, and relish food,

chew thoroughly that it may do you good,

have it well cooked, unspiced, and undisguised.

--_Leonardo da Vinci_

THE DIGESTION OF FOODS.

It is important that the housekeeper not only understand the nature and

composition of foods, but she should also know something of their

digestive properties, since food, to be serviceable, must be not only

nutritious, but easily digested. Digestion is the process by which food

rendered soluble, and capable of being absorbed for use in carrying on

the various vital processes.

The digestive apparatus consists of a long and tortuous tube called the

alimentary canal, varying in length from twenty-five to thirty feet,

along which are arranged the various digestive organs,--the mouth, the

stomach, the liver, and the pancreas,--each of which, together with the

intestines, has an important function to perform. In these various

organs nature manufactures five wonderful fluids for changing and

dissolving the several food elements. The mouth supplies the saliva; in

the walls of the stomach are little glands which produce the gastric

juice; the pancreatic juice is made by the pancreas; the liver secretes

bile; while scattered along the small intestines are minute glands

which make the intestinal juice. Each of these fluids has a particular

work to do in transforming some part of the food into suitable material

for use in the body. The saliva acts upon the starch of the food,

changing it into sugar; the gastric juice digests albumin and other

nitrogenous elements; the bile digests fat, and aids in the absorption

of other food elements after they are digested; the pancreatic juice is

not confined in its action to a single element, but digests starch,

fats, and the albuminous elements after they have been acted upon by the

gastric juice; the intestinal juice is capable of acting upon all

digestible food elements.

[Illustration: The Alimentary Canal, _a._ Esophagus; _b._ Stomach; _c._

Cardiac Orifice; _d._ Pylorus; _e._ Small Intestine; _f._ Bile Duct;

_g._ Pancreatic Duct; _h._ Ascending Colon; _i._ Transverse Colon; _j._

Descending Colon; _k._ Rectum.]

THE DIGESTION OF A MOUTHFUL OF BREAD.--A mouthful of bread

represents all, or nearly all, the elements of nutrition. Taking a

mouthful of bread as a representative of food in general, it may be said

that its digestion begins the moment that it enters the mouth, and

continues the entire length of the alimentary canal, or until the

digestible portion of the food has been completely digested and

absorbed. We quote the following brief description of the digestive

process from Dr. J.H. Kellogg's Second Book in Physiology[A]:--

[Footnote A: Good Health Pub. Co., Battle Creek, Mich.]

"_Mastication._--The first act of the digestive process is mastication,

or chewing the food, the purpose of which is to crush the food and

divide it into small particles, so that the various digestive fluids may

easily and promptly come into contact with every part of it.

Science in the Kitchen A Scientific Treatise On Food Substances and Their Dietetic Properties, Together with a Practical Explanation of the Principles of Healthful Cookery, and a Large Number of Original, Palatable, and Wholesome Recipes · 第 2 / 50 段