Chapter XII

Beside the River

All day long the river has moved through my thought as it rolls through

the landscape spread out at my feet. There it lies, winding for many a

mile within the boundaries of this noble outlook; by day flecked with

sails approaching and receding, and at night shining under the full

moon like a girdle of silver, clasping mountains and broad meadow lands

in a varied but harmonious landscape. From the point at which I look

out upon its long course, the stream has a setting worthy of its volume

and its history. In the distant background a mountain range, of noble

altitude and outline, has today an ethereal strength and splendour; a

slight haze has obliterated all details, and left the great hills soft

and dream-like in the September sunshine; at first sight one waits to

see them vanish, but they remain, wrought upon by sunlight and

atmosphere, until the twilight touches them with purple and night turns

them into mighty shadows. On either hand, in the middle ground of the

picture, long lines of hills shut the river within a world of its own,

and shelter the green meadows, the fallow fields, and the stretches of

woodland that cover the broad sweep from the river's edge to their own

bases. Below me the quiet current enters the heart of another group of

mountains, flowing silently between the precipitous and rocky heights

that lift themselves on either hand, indifferent alike to the frowning

summits when the sun warms them with smiles, and to the black and

portentous shadows which they often cast across the channel at their

feet. The solitude and awe which belong to mountain passes through

which great rivers flow clothe this place with solemnity and majesty as

with a visible garment, and fill one with a sense of indescribable awe.

The river which lies before me moves through a mist of legend and

tradition as well as through a landscape of substantial history. It

has been called an epical river because of the varied and sustained

beauty through which it sweeps from its mountain sources to the sea;

but as I turn from it, and the visible loveliness of its banks fades

from sight, I recall that other landscape of history and legend through

which it rolls, and that, for the moment, is the reality, and the other

the shadow. A web of human associations spreads itself over this long

valley like a richer atmosphere; the fields are ripe with action and

achievement; every projecting point has its story, every gentle curve

and quiet inlet its memory; for many and many a decade of years life

has touched this silent stream and humanised its power and beauty until

it has become part of the vast human experience wrought out between

these mountain boundaries. As I think of these things and of the world

of dear past things which they recall, another great river sweeps into

the vision of memory, but how different! There comes with it no warmth

of human emotion, but only the breath of the unbroken woods, the awful

aspect of the great precipitous cliffs, the vast solitude out of which

it rolls, with troubled current, to mingle its mysterious waters with

the northern gulf. It is a stream which Nature still keeps for

herself, and suffers no division of ownership with men; a stream as

wild and solitary as the remote and unpeopled land through which it

moves. This river, on the other hand, bears every hour the wealth of a

great inland commerce upon its wide current; it flows past cities and

villages scattered thickly along its course, past countless homes whose

lights weave a shining net along its banks at night; on still Sabbath

mornings the bells answer each other in almost unbroken peal along its

course. Emerging from an unknown past in the earliest days of

discovery, human interests have steadily multiplied along its shores,

and spread over it the countless lines of human activity. To-day the

Argo, multiplied a thousand times, seeks the golden fleece of commerce

at every point along its shores; and of the countless Jasons who make

the voyage few return empty-handed. Hour after hour the white sails

fly in mysterious and changing lines, messengers of wealth and trade

and pleasure, whose voyages are no sooner ended than they begin again.

It is this wealth of action and achievement which make the names of

great rivers sonorous as the voices of the centuries; the Nile, the

Danube, the Rhine, the Hudson--how weighty are these words with

associations old as history and deep as the human heart!

The rivers are the great channels through which the ceaseless

interchange of the elements goes on; they unite the heart of the

continents and the solitary places of the mountains with the universal

sea which washes all shores and beats its melancholy refrain at either

pole. Into their currents the hills and uplands pour their streams; to

them the little rivulets come laughing and singing down from their

sources in the forest depths. A drop falling from a passing shower

into the lake of Delolo may be carried eastward, through the Zambesi,

to the Indian Ocean, or westward, along the transcontinental course of

the Congo, to the Atlantic. The mists that rise from great streams,

separated by vast stretches of territory, commingle in the upper air,

and are carried by vagrant winds to the wheat-fields of the far

Northwest or the rice-fields of the South. The ocean ceaselessly makes

the circuit of the globe, and summons its tributaries along all shores

to itself. But it gives even more lavishly than it receives; day and

night there rise over its vast expanse those invisible clouds of

moisture which diffuse themselves through the atmosphere, and descend

at last upon the earth to pour, sooner or later, into the rivers, and

be returned whence they came. This subtle commerce, universal

throughout the whole domain of nature, animate and inanimate, tells us

a common truth with the rose, and corrects the false report of the

senses that all things are fixed and isolated. It discloses a

communion of matter with matter, a fellowship of continent with

continent, an interchange of forces which throws a broad light on

things still deeper and more marvellous. It affirms the unity of all

created things and predicts the dawn of a new thought of the kinship of

races; there is in it the prophecy of new insights into the universal

life of men, of fellowships that shall rise to the recognition of new

duties, and of a well-being which shall bind the weakest to the

strongest, the poorest to the richest, the lowest to the highest, by

the golden bond of a diviner love.

Under the Trees and Elsewhere · 第 12 / 22 章